Just finished building ad testing mine today. My vac is narrower and taller than yours, and I used the Dustopper cyclone system. I put my door on the back and added carpet padding on the inside bottom. Works like a charm and has cut the noise by more than half. Thank you for the inspiration and the ideas.
Thank you so much for this informative video! I recently bought a battery operated nail gun to stop using my air compressor... the shop vac is my next project to save my ears and give my neighbors their sanity back 😅 this will help a lot. Thanks again 🙌
Top, job Mate! I have Makita 466L Shop Vac. Rated sound pressure level at a distance of 1 m, ISO 3744 = 62 dB, connected to a Dust Deputy. I have also just brought my very first spiral head portable planer/thicknesser. (From Carbatec, here in Australia) which is a hell of a lot quiter than my 10" jointer/planer combination machine! I'm now looking at ways of having the new Carbatec Planer/Thicknesser + Dusty Deputy and Makita Vac, all combined into a single "rolling" unit. Your excellent design has definitely caught my eye. ( I will still probaly keep the new planer on a separate mobile base and then connect it to your brilliantly designed shop vac silencer cabinet and the Dust Deputy) My Makita Vac has most of it's exhausting vents around the side top motor housing. So I'm thinking that I need to pay, not so much attention to head space above the vac, but instead pay attention to the volume of space around the sides of the vacuum. Can I ask how you made the connection from the rubber cuff in the back panel to your shop vacuum? Was it just a short piece of linking hose from the rubber cuff to the shop vacuum ? Finally, my "2 cents worth" I would have also run some kind of a rubber seal (what we call weather seals here in Oz) on the face of the cabinet carcass, were the front access door to shop vacuum is located. Doing so would surely help to make the entire system even more quite when the vacuum access door is shut. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. PS Yes I know that this Vid was posted many moons ago now, but one can always live in hope of a response :-)
Sound reduction is great, but it would also be helpful to know how much it reduces the vac’a air CFM. the vac can only suck in as much as it can blow out, and the baffling will definitely reduce it to some extent.
I have a new garage wood shop that has a Delta 10” table saw, 10” chop saw, thickness planer and other Power tools all on an auto switch. I would like to sound deaden the vac system but all the power tools make more noise then vac system. I feel your noise reduction system is a great idea
"Sounds" like you got the results you wanted (haha). Nice build. You might check the heat buildup inside where the motor is so as not to overheat. I put vent slots in the bottom of mine and checked with a oven thermometer. BTW, you could cut a vertical slit in the bucket and seal a piece of clear plastic to watch the level for when to empty. Maybe you could show is how well it works keeping the vac filter clean? Again, great build!
Hi. Very nice presentation. I have 3 questions. 1- why did you install electrical switch ? 2- I have a Ridgid vacuum amd it has a port that blows the air out. I did not see any holes for air going out. Can you please explain? 3- would it help if I put the box inside another box ? I appreciate your input.
Nice job! You put the switched convenience outlet inside the box, but you can't plug in your tool. Also I think switches are normally mounted such that up is on, not down. I think this comes from an old safety practice with dangerous machines. If something were to fall and hit the switch lever pushing it down, it would turn off the machine. Once again, nice job!
+Charles Parent That's part 3. I plan to build a current sensing circuit so that you can plug in your tool, and the vac will come on automatically when the tool runs. The upside down switch is on purpose. It drives me nuts, so it's supposed to motivate me to finish this thing sometime soon.
Good job, thanks for posting... just a after thought, mabe use the carpet pad where you used the towels... Has the wife started looking for them yet?? Keep it up, thanks BTW what's the story on that larger Vac behind you?
My only complaint, and it seems to be a constant among all of these sorts of videos, is that I think you ought to cut to the chase in the very beginning and show the results attainable by building this case. I for one would find it reassuring that I don't have to waste my time on a project that may not do what I hope it will do. This one definitely was worthwhile so why not trumpet it (so to speak) to the world right from the start?
I agree with you!! It's a really stupid and insulting way all video creators use to keep you hooked to the end as that is one of the criteria used to assess the value if the video for commercials etc. How many people watch it for how long.
Matt great videos, just discovered them. Would it do anything to have added the carpet padding to the two sets of baffles to absorb even more of the sound?.
I totally agree with you as the muffler is the most 8mportanr part of silencing but check airflow, as the softer areas being bouced against on the way out would cause added friction. Inside, I would use sheetrock rather than wood. Cement really kills the sound. Use the same principles and materials as when creating a soundproof room.
what are your thoughts on the vacuum box design now that some time has passed? is there anything different that you wood have done, or is it working great, and you wood knot change anything? i have a couple of suggestions that may or may not appeal to you but, to farther deaden the sound you could put it into another enclosure inside your shop or outside your house. the enclosures can have just as much sound deadening technology as the vacuum box, this way the db could potentially drop as low as 50db. if you build an enclosure outside your house that matches your house exterior, having that whole unit outside could drop the db levels to well below 27db. the negative side to that is you’ll have to drill a 2 1/2” diameter hole located inside that enclosure for the vac hose. if you go with the enclosure inside your shop the enclosure will take up a little more space than your vacuum box as it sits now, but the benefit will be the tremendous drop in db levels. it depends on how much real estate you’re willing to give up in your shop. if this enclosure goes to your ceiling the area above the cyclone can be used as storage. just my two cents. thanks for the video.
The only thing I'd change at this point is the vac itself. The way the inlet attaches to this particular vac is tricky to work with it being towards the back of the cabinet. One that was simply a slip/pressure fit would be much easier. However, I still have that same vac in there today. It has 100's of hours on it, and hasn't burned up yet, so I guess heat isn't an issue. As for putting it outside, of course that would reduce the noise even further, but the climate here in WPA isn't really suited to that (both high heat/humidity and below 0F temps). You also have to remember that the farther you run the lines the more pressure drop you get. The area above the garage is living space, not an attic, so that's not an option.
Matt, thanks for the great videos! I have used your design to build a similar box. Did you just staple the carpet padding to the plywood, or use some other adhesive?
+Dan Balsbaugh Just staples. Go easy on them too. The padding will say in place with just a few of them, and it loses a lot of it's sound absorption ability if it's smashed down.
Still running great with the same vac today. Leave a longer piece than I did coming from the vac out of the cabinet though. I don't do it often, but wrangling the vac into the cabinet is a pain.
@@MattHeere another question. Ive been toying with the idea of placing 2 small AC Infinity fans somewhere in the bottom cabinet. 1 as an "inlet" and 1 as an "outlet" . I understand that would create a couple small openings but ensure air flow to the shop vac. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Ted Puckett: i was wondering about the heat as well. maybe an adjustable thermo switch could work, when the inside temp gets to a certain temperature the unit shuts off and you could take a coffee break with a nice piece cake. the time it takes for it to heat up means it’s time for a break anyway. another thought came to mind in the first video Matt was cutting the hole for the vac hose and he suggested you leave that piece longer so you don’t wrangle it back into place is to use a rubber seal that goes between a toilet tank and toilet base. this seL that the toilet tank sits on is a big soft rubbery material with a hole large enough for the vac hose. well, i think the ID is large enough, but it’s close, and could be easily pressed onto to it and kept there, so when you put the vacuum back the seal can take up that space and sit tight up against the plywood. this may require making the hole in the plywood a little larger. also making the inside of the hole on a 45 degree as if it’s a large chamfer to match the toilet tank seal wood work much better. you’ll understand what i’m talking about if you look up toilet tank seal in the home depot website. i’m sure you’ll be able to figure it out. back to your question about heat build up....is this heat a problem or not?
Only because I don't know, could you build a box to put the cyclone on top of, instead of a bucket? That way you have a larger area for your dust and debris?
Electrical, need strain relief and ground to your metal boxes. Grounding the switch and outlet not enough. Where does the hot air/ vac exhaust go? You did a nice job otherwise. Especially like the intake motor cooling channels, and carpet pad.
The motor will overheat for sure, the air will became so hot in the cabinet that it will melt/burn your carpet. Very dangerous stuff. You need to drastically help the air from the shopvac to get out of the cabinet!
This video is 6 years old, and I still have the same vac in that same cabinet. Nothing burned. Nothing melted, and it's run for hours during sanding operations. The bulk of what cools most vacs is the airflow through the impeller.
@@MattHeere Happy to know that. Mine (2000 Watt) automatically turn off when overheated to protect the motor. I could never adopt your solutionn. Maybe your Shopvac has some kind of protection that reduces the current in the rotor. The air with dust sucked from the vac is never used to cool the motor, otherwise the debris could clog it and the motor could burn or being damaged. Usually the motor is vertical: the lower side of the motor axis sucks the air, while the upper side move an impeller that drain fresh to cool it. The upper and lower "compartments" are separated. The hot air from the motor stagnates around the shopvac. It gets out through your (nice) anti-noise baffles just for overpressure. A solution could be to place an impeller at the end of your "anti-noise-system" sucking out the air around the vac.
+4vinos With the dust deputy hooked up I just about never have to empty the vac :) Only the inlet hose needs to be detached if I do want to remove the vac from the cabinet, and it's a quick-release fitting so it's not too bad even though you have to reach around the vac and do it blind.
3 years now and it's still going strong, so I'm gonna say no - not a problem. Honestly it's so much better this way that I'd still do it if I went through a vac a year...
Just finished building ad testing mine today. My vac is narrower and taller than yours, and I used the Dustopper cyclone system. I put my door on the back and added carpet padding on the inside bottom. Works like a charm and has cut the noise by more than half. Thank you for the inspiration and the ideas.
Thank you so much for this informative video! I recently bought a battery operated nail gun to stop using my air compressor... the shop vac is my next project to save my ears and give my neighbors their sanity back 😅 this will help a lot. Thanks again 🙌
I'm building one. Great video!
Nicely done, good design and clearly explained.
Top, job Mate!
I have Makita 466L Shop Vac. Rated sound pressure level at a distance of 1 m, ISO 3744 = 62 dB, connected to a Dust Deputy.
I have also just brought my very first spiral head portable planer/thicknesser. (From Carbatec, here in Australia) which is a hell of a lot quiter than my 10" jointer/planer combination machine!
I'm now looking at ways of having the new Carbatec Planer/Thicknesser + Dusty Deputy and Makita Vac, all combined into a single "rolling" unit. Your excellent design has definitely caught my eye. ( I will still probaly keep the new planer on a separate mobile base and then connect it to your brilliantly designed shop vac silencer cabinet and the Dust Deputy)
My Makita Vac has most of it's exhausting vents around the side top motor housing. So I'm thinking that I need to pay, not so much attention to head space above the vac, but instead pay attention to the volume of space around the sides of the vacuum.
Can I ask how you made the connection from the rubber cuff in the back panel to your shop vacuum? Was it just a short piece of linking hose from the rubber cuff to the shop vacuum ?
Finally, my "2 cents worth" I would have also run some kind of a rubber seal (what we call weather seals here in Oz) on the face of the cabinet carcass, were the front access door to shop vacuum is located. Doing so would surely help to make the entire system even more quite when the vacuum access door is shut.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
PS Yes I know that this Vid was posted many moons ago now, but one can always live in hope of a response :-)
Sound reduction is great, but it would also be helpful to know how much it reduces the vac’a air CFM. the vac can only suck in as much as it can blow out, and the baffling will definitely reduce it to some extent.
I have a new garage wood shop that has a Delta 10” table saw, 10” chop saw, thickness planer and other Power tools all on an auto switch. I would like to sound deaden the vac system but all the power tools make more noise then vac system. I feel your noise reduction system is a great idea
"Sounds" like you got the results you wanted (haha). Nice build. You might check the heat buildup inside where the motor is so as not to overheat. I put vent slots in the bottom of mine and checked with a oven thermometer. BTW, you could cut a vertical slit in the bucket and seal a piece of clear plastic to watch the level for when to empty. Maybe you could show is how well it works keeping the vac filter clean? Again, great build!
A tip: you can watch movies on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching a lot of movies these days.
@Cannon Gavin yup, have been watching on Flixzone for years myself :D
Hi. Very nice presentation. I have 3 questions. 1- why did you install electrical switch ? 2- I have a Ridgid vacuum amd it has a port that blows the air out. I did not see any holes for air going out. Can you please explain? 3- would it help if I put the box inside another box ? I appreciate your input.
You can also use acoustic ceiling panels to line you box.
good idea
that is awesome Matt.
Nice job!
You put the switched convenience outlet inside the box, but you can't plug in your tool. Also I think switches are normally mounted such that up is on, not down. I think this comes from an old safety practice with dangerous machines. If something were to fall and hit the switch lever pushing it down, it would turn off the machine.
Once again, nice job!
+Charles Parent That's part 3. I plan to build a current sensing circuit so that you can plug in your tool, and the vac will come on automatically when the tool runs.
The upside down switch is on purpose. It drives me nuts, so it's supposed to motivate me to finish this thing sometime soon.
Great job!!
Like the design. One question and I may have missed it, do you need fresh air intake for cooling?
Nice job
Parts missing on switch box. 1/2 inch compression cord connector.
Good job, thanks for posting... just a after thought, mabe use the carpet pad where you used the towels... Has the wife started looking for them yet?? Keep it up, thanks BTW what's the story on that larger Vac behind you?
Nice work, quiet is good!
My only complaint, and it seems to be a constant among all of these sorts of videos, is that I think you ought to cut to the chase in the very beginning and show the results attainable by building this case. I for one would find it reassuring that I don't have to waste my time on a project that may not do what I hope it will do. This one definitely was worthwhile so why not trumpet it (so to speak) to the world right from the start?
I agree with you!! It's a really stupid and insulting way all video creators use to keep you hooked to the end as that is one of the criteria used to assess the value if the video for commercials etc. How many people watch it for how long.
Off is up on the switch? Not too standard
Matt great videos, just discovered them. Would it do anything to have added the carpet padding to the two sets of baffles to absorb even more of the sound?.
I totally agree with you as the muffler is the most 8mportanr part of silencing but check airflow, as the softer areas being bouced against on the way out would cause added friction.
Inside, I would use sheetrock rather than wood. Cement really kills the sound. Use the same principles and materials as when creating a soundproof room.
Thanks
what are your thoughts on the vacuum box design now that some time has passed?
is there anything different that you wood have done, or is it working great, and you wood knot change anything?
i have a couple of suggestions that may or may not appeal to you but, to farther deaden the sound you could put it into another enclosure inside your shop or outside your house.
the enclosures can have just as much sound deadening technology as the vacuum box, this way the db could potentially drop as low as 50db. if you build an enclosure outside your house that matches your house exterior, having that whole unit outside could drop the db levels to well below 27db.
the negative side to that is you’ll have to drill a 2 1/2” diameter hole located inside that enclosure for the vac hose. if you go with the enclosure inside your shop the enclosure will take up a little more space than your vacuum box as it sits now, but the benefit will be the tremendous drop in db levels.
it depends on how much real estate you’re willing to give up in your shop. if this enclosure goes to your ceiling the area above the cyclone can be used as storage.
just my two cents.
thanks for the video.
The only thing I'd change at this point is the vac itself. The way the inlet attaches to this particular vac is tricky to work with it being towards the back of the cabinet. One that was simply a slip/pressure fit would be much easier. However, I still have that same vac in there today. It has 100's of hours on it, and hasn't burned up yet, so I guess heat isn't an issue.
As for putting it outside, of course that would reduce the noise even further, but the climate here in WPA isn't really suited to that (both high heat/humidity and below 0F temps). You also have to remember that the farther you run the lines the more pressure drop you get. The area above the garage is living space, not an attic, so that's not an option.
Matt, thanks for the great videos! I have used your design to build a similar box. Did you just staple the carpet padding to the plywood, or use some other adhesive?
+Dan Balsbaugh Just staples. Go easy on them too. The padding will say in place with just a few of them, and it loses a lot of it's sound absorption ability if it's smashed down.
Who do I go to to build me one near me ?I’m not even sure what to google?
How did your design hold up. Just wondering about heat build up. Those baffles were a great idea on top.
Still running great with the same vac today. Leave a longer piece than I did coming from the vac out of the cabinet though. I don't do it often, but wrangling the vac into the cabinet is a pain.
@@MattHeere another question. Ive been toying with the idea of placing 2 small AC Infinity fans somewhere in the bottom cabinet. 1 as an "inlet" and 1 as an "outlet" . I understand that would create a couple small openings but ensure air flow to the shop vac. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Ted Puckett: i was wondering about the heat as well. maybe an adjustable thermo switch could work, when the inside temp gets to a certain temperature the unit shuts off and you could take a coffee break with a nice piece cake. the time it takes for it to heat up means it’s time for a break anyway.
another thought came to mind in the first video Matt was cutting the hole for the vac hose and he suggested you leave that piece longer so you don’t wrangle it back into place is to use a rubber seal that goes between a toilet tank and toilet base. this seL that the toilet tank sits on is a big soft rubbery material with a hole large enough for the vac hose. well, i think the ID is large enough, but it’s close, and could be easily pressed onto to it and kept there, so when you put the vacuum back the seal can take up that space and sit tight up against the plywood. this may require making the hole in the plywood a little larger.
also making the inside of the hole on a 45 degree as if it’s a large chamfer to match the toilet tank seal wood work much better.
you’ll understand what i’m talking about if you look up toilet tank seal in the home depot website. i’m sure you’ll be able to figure it out.
back to your question about heat build up....is this heat a problem or not?
Only because I don't know, could you build a box to put the cyclone on top of, instead of a bucket? That way you have a larger area for your dust and debris?
It'll work with anything that's air-tight. I've considered doing a large box outside that I could unload with the tractor.
Electrical, need strain relief and ground to your metal boxes. Grounding the switch and outlet not enough.
Where does the hot air/ vac exhaust go?
You did a nice job otherwise. Especially like the intake motor cooling channels, and carpet pad.
pretty sure the exhaust vents out just under the top panel
The motor will overheat for sure, the air will became so hot in the cabinet that it will melt/burn your carpet.
Very dangerous stuff.
You need to drastically help the air from the shopvac to get out of the cabinet!
This video is 6 years old, and I still have the same vac in that same cabinet. Nothing burned. Nothing melted, and it's run for hours during sanding operations. The bulk of what cools most vacs is the airflow through the impeller.
@@MattHeere Happy to know that. Mine (2000 Watt) automatically turn off when overheated to protect the motor. I could never adopt your solutionn. Maybe your Shopvac has some kind of protection that reduces the current in the rotor.
The air with dust sucked from the vac is never used to cool the motor, otherwise the debris could clog it and the motor could burn or being damaged. Usually the motor is vertical: the lower side of the motor axis sucks the air, while the upper side move an impeller that drain fresh to cool it. The upper and lower "compartments" are separated.
The hot air from the motor stagnates around the shopvac. It gets out through your (nice) anti-noise baffles just for overpressure.
A solution could be to place an impeller at the end of your "anti-noise-system" sucking out the air around the vac.
Matt, how will you empty your bucket? Guess you have to disconnect your inlet and outlet hoses right"
+4vinos With the dust deputy hooked up I just about never have to empty the vac :) Only the inlet hose needs to be detached if I do want to remove the vac from the cabinet, and it's a quick-release fitting so it's not too bad even though you have to reach around the vac and do it blind.
I know this is old but how did it stand up to the heat in the box? I was wondering if I could add pc fans at the top and bottom to promote airflow.
Are you concerned about overheating the vacume ?
3 years now and it's still going strong, so I'm gonna say no - not a problem. Honestly it's so much better this way that I'd still do it if I went through a vac a year...