Great changes to your layout! I think it's important to show those new to the hobby that upgrades/repairs/tweaks are part of the natural evolution to our miniature worlds.
Hey SMT, Love the update on the layout. I recommend running your tendered steam locos like your hornbys or other locos with a free-wheeled pony truck in the front to test the tracks. It could be beneficial in the long run in case steam engines are asked for on streams.
I've already started with my Bachmann steamers which are super sensitive and so far there haven't been any derailments. I did have an issue with the grain car derailing in the tunnel but it turned out to be an over tightened screw on the right truck.
The layout modifications are looking great. Can't wait to see it finished. I always chuckle over how a serious hobbyist's layout is never what you'd call "finished." LOL
Really enjoy your videos. Takes me back to 1979 and my model railway. I had many of the same things you have. Like the big electric soldering gun. And some of the same rolling stock. Brings back good memories. Thanks!
The mountain layout looks like it could have been made in the 70s with the age of the track and buildings. A lot of people hate on that soldering gun but I still like it over smaller irons that are popular.
@@SMTMainline - The thing around using a soldering gun is that some guns have settings for both 100 watts and 140 watts. If you pull the trigger back partially and it "clicks" that could be the 100-watt setting which is often hot enough for track work. Pulling the trigger all the way back would then be the 140-watt setting.
Hey SMT just want to say ,I love the new additions to the layout and you have a wealth of knowledge beyond your years.keep up the great videos ! They are truly enjoyable!
Since the mountains are so sharp, I’ve called that part of the layout, “The Spiky Taverns.” Or the graveyard for any unfortunate locomotives or rolling stock un able to make it under any bridges or turns. Love to see you finally connect the two now! Love to see the new uploads in the channel.
Amazing video! Love when you do track work, scenery, or anything that’s related to editing/improving the layout. Home to see an update video when you solder the track and lay ballast! Thanks again!
Love the video great work. Can't wait to see what it will look like with all the scenery and to see trains running on the new parts in live streams. Keep up the great work
Awesome seeing new additions and improvements to your layout! I love that this is your long term custom layout that has evolved over the years, it’s totally yours and is so special because of how much love and care you’ve put into it. It shows! I’m looking forward to seeing the new track in your videos 😁
On the delight elevation change going to the mountain tunnel I I use carpenters shims that are about a foot long to change grade about a quarter inch. Thanks Hal
Great job SMT that looks really good! Great balance on the bench work there first thing I would have done would have been fall through the foam and wrecked it all!😂
I envision a coal mine on that mountain, similar to Faller's models. 15:08 Especially in that part of the dead end curve where the red and white car is resting. Great job!
It's amazing to see how you're changing the layout. Walt Disney once said that Disneyland would never be finished, and that idea applies to model railroads too! I really enjoy your channel! Just subscribed! 👍
Solid advice on the track bed material; I'll be sticking to cork for my future projects. Shoutout to the comedically-timed shunter. Should give it a name...
Great job buddy! I’m delving into my trains after many years of HO slot car racing/layouts. My goal is to run them around my den ceiling. Again Kudos to you sir!
You helped my with my own layout. I decided to get creative with instant motor mount, just as you do, and I've become more daring with it. Some passenger cars were coming uncoupled over a joint between two tables. Plastic shims under the track didn't work, because the gap under the track varies in width. So, I just squeezed out some instant motor mount between the ties outside of the rails, and it seeped down to just where it was needed, but it was viscous enough to stay between the ties and cool and harden. I did every other gap between ties. Now there is no wavering of the track as the train goes over the joint between tables, and no cars are derailed or uncoupled, even at top speed. Thanks.
A cedar shingle under the track works well when you have an elevation change as you have between the tables. It’s a tip from my 1960’s Atlas 6 Layouts you can build book…which is still in print!
Just reaching for the bedside light when notification of a new SMT video pops up....oh well going to bed before 1am is for wimps anyway.🙂 Plus we get to find out Harrison does his own death defying stunts and doesn't use a stuntman. And yayyy for Nerf kittuh appearance.
Harrison: another model railroader who is living proof that a layout is never completed. It always changes or gets completely ripped out and replaced. And you did some damned nice work as well... And I see the Nurf Cat cameo!!!!
I would lay nickel silver tracks in all tunnels so you don't have to worry about cleaning it as much. I would put your dad's brass track in accessible places and where it can be seen and appreciated.😊
Glad to see you getting the connections to the mountain part of the layout and track improvements. Looks like it will be quite a lot more fun! I was a little concerned about the "S" curve connector to the mountain section but it looks gentle enough not to cause derailments. In fact, it looks smoother than the "S" curves that happen at the crossover turnouts. This is cool to watch because I'm s l o w l y redoing my layout. The previous owner of my layout had glued and nailed the roadbed and then nailed the track so it was a real pain to tear it up, especially since the ballast then glued it all even more. I installed a couple of feet of new cork roadbed but had to take it up because I changed my mind. It was less trouble to pull up than the original but still, the latex caulk held more than you'd think. SO, my new rule - just use two fine lines of caulk (cut your caulk tube end like a professional - at an angle but just enough to make a tiny opening which allows a small, controlled, line of caulk) down the middle of each half the cork - it should be secure enough yet easy to remove with a chisel to change. We should admit that we or someone will want to change a layout in the future so may as well build with that in mind. I saved all the old broken up cork and you could save the rubber roadbed to grind up for scenery or use somehow. I try to reuse/recycle everything I can because I'm very conscious of the need to conserve earth's resources, be wise in using them, and avoid waste - especially non-organic waste. In nature, EVERYTHING gets reused/recycled and reconfigured. When we fully develop a circular economy, life will be healthier, better for all and more sustainable - and we can enjoy doing our amazing, creative, fun hobbies like model railroading!
I added a small straight section to the S curve which I think helped a lot. I'm not too inclined to save the foam roadbed since it doesn't seem to do anything well but I will be saving all the cork. I didn't mention it in the video but the section under the S curve was made with reclaimed cork. I'm completely onboard with minimizing waste and agree that we live in a throw away world. I'll try to fix anything before throwing it out, even if it's practically worthless.
@@SMTMainline Cool! And you certainly fix a lot of engines that many people would probably throw away. Admire your work and persistence. Love your channel!
@@SMTMainline Oops, may have accidentally gave thumb down. But, related to using natural, organic materials for scenery - the previous owner of my layout had made a tunnel using paper machete made from paper and flour I think. Well, mice got into the basement, went in the tunnel and made a nest and a mess! They peed on the steel track, which pitted it and corroded it badly! Had to abandon that line when I got the layout. Since then I removed all the steel rail but am keeping the abundant brass thinking it will be fine if do the track treatment according to the video at Ron's Trains n Things titled like, Stop Cleaning Your Track
Great work Harrison, new track is always exciting! Surprised you did not use your track testing engine the green Burlington Athearn. It has served you well, probably deserves its 15 minutes of fame on one of the livestreams one day. Take care, Jeff.
Yes I’ve used the foam underlay on my layout. As you say it’s not as good as cork but I’m too far in to change out the foam out. Nice to see your changes happening.
Harrison, Howdy. That older brass track will work fine. I have mine from the 70s and 80s. Just needs to be cleaned regularly. And those switches can be wired up and remotely thrown. You may want to consider this for something in the future. Good luck.
It helps to make changes and know where and when.... on my layout that I purchased second hand it had the foam underlay and I removed it and now have no underlay or cork bed it is much better and id rather hear the clickety clack of the wheels going over the joins than any fake sounds etc.. but thats just me... but with my new layout im designing at present it will have just an underlay foam carpet type stuff.. and no ballast or anything that will be it as im not one for scenery or cork or ballast.. i just want to run trains.. haha.. keep up the great videos.. thanks for another great one.. cheers from Melbourne Australia.. Tim.
I have some of those brass custom line switches from thirty years ago and they still work just fine. Plus I’m too cheap to tear them out and replace with new ns ones lol
Ever consider raising the tracks on the mountain area up and running track on the mountain surface as well as tunnels.The farther away a car/loco is from your seat the more difficult it is to see. Raising the far away stuff provides a better visual,and it's easy to do. A guy I knew had book cases instead of legs for his set up and faced them away on the far side and attached his hills/mountains to the backs and used the shelf part for engines and cars etc.
It's not impossible but it would be a challenge. The hill can't be raised without raising the entire section otherwise it would become too steep to climb. It would be much easier to come up with a more compact support system.
Nice vid. Shows improvements aren't as daunting as some may think. One of the things I've discovered over the years, DCC HATES dirty track. I noticed you use a good bit of Conducta-lube. That was originally made by Aero-car. Atlas acquired their products some time ago. I still have a lot of the 3 pack they use to sell, Conducta, Bearing Lube, and Gear Lube. The gear lube is a solid until it's touched, then it goes liquid. Really works well. The smallest drop of the bearing lube quiets down some of the squealiest (new word) bearings, especially the block type. Nice work all around.
I'm late to the show. As far as traditional oval layouts for continuous running are concerned, yours is about as interesting as I've seen. But my favorite location is the figure 8 inside the oval. I had a figure 8 layout as a child in the 70s. In an old Atlas track plans book, there was a figure 8 that was routed to and from an oval with mountains hiding part of it just like yours until you started changing it. I changed mine a lot. I ended up changing my figure 8 to a double mainline oval and then changed it some more.
"I've been working on the railroad, all the livelong day." Tuesday I built a Walthers Cornerstone kit, chicken coops and sheds. Got it all painted and looks great. Yesterday I got a Tichy Train Group flatcar built and painted. I spent as much time chasing parts across the floor than I did building it. Lots of cussing and swearing and ended up breaking every stirrup off as I was adding the bronze/phosphor wire grab irons. It came with plastic grab irons as well as the metal ones. Today I made some new stirrups out of staples and got them glued on and repainted. I ended up painting every board on the flat car and made each board a little different color than the others; kept mixing paint as I went. Came out looking like real wood after the last black wash with acrylic and alcohol. Today I painted (primed) 9 HO scale 1920's autos and cut the ends off of 200 popsicle sticks with my little razor saw and aluminum miter box. All done by hand and got 50 of 'em stained. Still waiting on MircoMart to get the mini tabletop saws back in stock. I scratch build a lot and need a little saw to help. Every time I turn around you're either building someone a new layout or changing yours around. You remind me of....me! Gotta stay busy. I was wondering about the foam type of roadbed. I see I made the correct choice to stick with cork. I assume your layout is in the basement so it looks like you've got plenty of room for expansion. Do you use flex track? I plan to use flex track for my next build. I've already got 75 feet of nickel silver flex track and 75 feet of cork roadbed. I've got a few old Atlas switches that are brass and I want to update to use all nickel silver. Nice job on the expansion, Harrison. Cheers from an old modeler in eastern TN
Rusty Lane - SMT uses both sectional and flex track on the layout. Thank you for the tips and experiences on building a Tichy Train Group freight car - I bought a boxcar kit that I have yet to paint and build. Thank you for the tip on forming stirrup steps from staples - they do have the right cross section! You sound like a very prolific modeler!
I use flex track on all the straight sections. It works well for wider, more realistic corners too however you need to be careful when connecting it to another piece of track. When you curve the track, one rail becomes longer than the other and must be cut to the exact specification, if you change the radius of the curve while doing this it will ether be too short or too long. The rail also has a tendency to slide backwards or forwards in the ties which makes it easy to mess up a cut.
@@Petemonster62 Thanks, I try to do my best and get out as cheap as possible. I decided on the desk staples because they were a little less bulky than my Swingline stapler. Cheers - TN
The draw hasn't been completed. I had a problem with 1/2 of the giveaway locomotives so I ordered a replacement, which I now have on hand. I will probably tack it onto the back of a video about going to NYC.
I really would recommend putting down nickel-silver turnouts there under the new section for long-term reliability (especially in a tunnel!) , and save the brass turnouts for somewhere that only railcars will go, but not engines. An old industrial siding, for example, or a modeled section of rarely used or abandoned track. Nothing takes the fun out of running your trains like having them stop in tunnels due to corrosion or oxidation of the brass track. 😢
I will if I redo that section of the track. Even if I replace them with nickel silver most of the track is still brass so I would have to replace it at the same time.
If you can, on the tunnel part of the mountain area, try to lift the supports below the track that runs above, and shimmy it a bit... nothing much, put a couple of wooden plates might do it...
During a bad storm my basement flooded very slightly causing the wooden legs of the layout table you swell and warp creating a slight incline on one side but i didnt notice it untill 2 years after it formed when i was relaying stuff. Lucky that it was so slight it didnt let couplers uncouple ir derail anything
I've had some similar issues. I kept having derailments un a corner, it turned out a nail under the track had somehow lifted and was pushing the roadbed up.
Hey SMTmainline if you’re ever in Victoria British Columbia I think you would have a blast at BC HOBBIES with there good selection of HO SCALE locomotives and rolling stock
Great video! Please mention how you connect code 100 track to code 83 track in the next layout video. Also mention what you do to fill gaps between track sections.
I believe they sell special pieces of track to do that. If not you could bend a rail joiner to lower the code 100 rail to the same level as 83. I'd add some solder to make sure it stays in place though.
@@SMTMainline @Klund110 howdy SMT is correct as usual. You can now buy ready made connectors. Many of have other methods, but most involve soldering. Look for code 83 to code 100 track adapters. cheers.
Great changes to your layout! I think it's important to show those new to the hobby that upgrades/repairs/tweaks are part of the natural evolution to our miniature worlds.
It's very good. Maybe you can move the rock
Hey SMT, Love the update on the layout. I recommend running your tendered steam locos like your hornbys or other locos with a free-wheeled pony truck in the front to test the tracks. It could be beneficial in the long run in case steam engines are asked for on streams.
I've already started with my Bachmann steamers which are super sensitive and so far there haven't been any derailments. I did have an issue with the grain car derailing in the tunnel but it turned out to be an over tightened screw on the right truck.
@@SMTMainline the older Hornby locos have really thick flanges, so it would probably be a good idea to test them.
The layout modifications are looking great. Can't wait to see it finished.
I always chuckle over how a serious hobbyist's layout is never what you'd call "finished." LOL
Really enjoy your videos. Takes me back to 1979 and my model railway. I had many of the same things you have. Like the big electric soldering gun. And some of the same rolling stock. Brings back good memories. Thanks!
The mountain layout looks like it could have been made in the 70s with the age of the track and buildings. A lot of people hate on that soldering gun but I still like it over smaller irons that are popular.
Yeah that soldering gun. I would solder a track joint, and melt the next 3 or 4 plastic ties on either side of the joint 😂
@@SMTMainline - The thing around using a soldering gun is that some guns have settings for both 100 watts and 140 watts. If you pull the trigger back partially and it "clicks" that could be the 100-watt setting which is often hot enough for track work. Pulling the trigger all the way back would then be the 140-watt setting.
Nice upgrades Harrison! Solid track work definitely is a must for good layout performance! Your trains, and your blood pressure will thank you!
Your work on this layout is amazing and valuable, Harrison. Amazing video, and please make more like this.
Hey SMT just want to say ,I love the new additions to the layout and you have a wealth of knowledge beyond your years.keep up the great videos ! They are truly enjoyable!
Gtrat job Harrisson, just a little bit of track cleaning and adjustement and all done
I’ve got back into model railroading because of your videos. Everyday new tweaks to make a layout better keeps it continuously exciting
Thrilled to see the mountain intergrated a bit more mate. 🇦🇺
Since the mountains are so sharp, I’ve called that part of the layout, “The Spiky Taverns.” Or the graveyard for any unfortunate locomotives or rolling stock un able to make it under any bridges or turns. Love to see you finally connect the two now! Love to see the new uploads in the channel.
Amazing video! Love when you do track work, scenery, or anything that’s related to editing/improving the layout. Home to see an update video when you solder the track and lay ballast! Thanks again!
Love the video great work. Can't wait to see what it will look like with all the scenery and to see trains running on the new parts in live streams. Keep up the great work
Great work! Incredible artistic talent for this. Thanks for posting!
Thank you!
Looks like an ambitious project. Based on what I've seen over the past months, I look forward to the outcome.
Awesome seeing new additions and improvements to your layout! I love that this is your long term custom layout that has evolved over the years, it’s totally yours and is so special because of how much love and care you’ve put into it. It shows! I’m looking forward to seeing the new track in your videos 😁
On the delight elevation change going to the mountain tunnel I
I use carpenters shims that are about a foot long to change grade about a quarter inch. Thanks Hal
Great job Harrison, looks great.
Michael
Each time improving the layout, congratulations my dear, let's hope that with that curve the Acela Express event is not repeated
Great job SMT that looks really good! Great balance on the bench work there first thing I would have done would have been fall through the foam and wrecked it all!😂
Loved watching the upgrades to your layout!!! I never tire of these videos! Thanks for doing them!
I envision a coal mine on that mountain, similar to Faller's models. 15:08 Especially in that part of the dead end curve where the red and white car is resting.
Great job!
It's amazing to see how you're changing the layout. Walt Disney once said that Disneyland would never be finished, and that idea applies to model railroads too! I really enjoy your channel! Just subscribed! 👍
Now that's looking good, I love the changes❤,next is a bigger freight yard,😊
Solid advice on the track bed material; I'll be sticking to cork for my future projects. Shoutout to the comedically-timed shunter. Should give it a name...
Real happy you did the new track, it had been on my mind for some time now, and then.
Great job buddy! I’m delving into my trains after many years of HO slot car racing/layouts. My goal is to run them around my den ceiling. Again Kudos to you sir!
Thank you!
You helped my with my own layout. I decided to get creative with instant motor mount, just as you do, and I've become more daring with it. Some passenger cars were coming uncoupled over a joint between two tables. Plastic shims under the track didn't work, because the gap under the track varies in width. So, I just squeezed out some instant motor mount between the ties outside of the rails, and it seeped down to just where it was needed, but it was viscous enough to stay between the ties and cool and harden. I did every other gap between ties. Now there is no wavering of the track as the train goes over the joint between tables, and no cars are derailed or uncoupled, even at top speed. Thanks.
I'm glad to hear that. Instant motor mount isn't pretty but it gets the job done and can help stabilize just about anything.
I wish I had the place in my basement to build my own layout. Nice upgrade. Thanks for sharing.
Harrison what a fantastic job you did on the layout. I know for a fact when it's full up running it's going to be awesome 😊
Harrison you make track laying look easy, modifications looks great
You sure made that look easy. I would have had second thoughts to start ripping track and switches out in multiple places on the layout.
Really nice change It looks great! Thanks for the video Harrison.
It always pays in dividends to take as much time and care as possible when laying down track. Good going!
I couldn't agree more. Any time where I've rushed it, I've ended up redoing it shortly after.
A cedar shingle under the track works well when you have an elevation change as you have between the tables. It’s a tip from my 1960’s Atlas 6 Layouts you can build book…which is still in print!
That's a great idea, I'll have a look for one.
Hi SMT. Happy Thursday my friend. Nice layout and nice upgrade. I’m sure you’ll get the kinks back on track so to speak
Have a great day
It's a great improvement. I like watching the trains snake thru the mountain scene. As usual Harrison, you have made excelent work out of your layout.
Thank you very much!
Wow that really tied the whole thing together. Awesome job
Watching your layout grow over the last 5 years has been pretty cool
You must’ve been looking forward to doing that for a long time judging by how passionately you dug your claws into it and ripped it out.
I’m here at the bar thinking about what to do with my layout and your videos really help
May 17-20. you tube meet and greet. Jim Thorpe Pennsylvania. Reading and Northern RR . I hope you all can come this year
That is a great upgrade plus you got to get rid of that nasty foam. I myself am a firm believer on cork roadbed period. Good job
awesome track work smt, abit of troubleshooting happens to everyone lol. cant wait for the next one!
Forman is a good looking dude... Nice work on the track...
beautiful cat The layout is looking good
Just reaching for the bedside light when notification of a new SMT video pops up....oh well going to bed before 1am is for wimps anyway.🙂
Plus we get to find out Harrison does his own death defying stunts and doesn't use a stuntman.
And yayyy for Nerf kittuh appearance.
Wow, You really scared me at 10:19. I'm glad you weren't hurt.
Harrison: another model railroader who is living proof that a layout is never completed. It always changes or gets completely ripped out and replaced. And you did some damned nice work as well... And I see the Nurf Cat cameo!!!!
Make sure the Big Boy and the DD40X can fit through the new tunnel portals. 😊
I don't think they'll ever fit through.
I would lay nickel silver tracks in all tunnels so you don't have to worry about cleaning it as much. I would put your dad's brass track in accessible places and where it can be seen and appreciated.😊
Those are both great ideas
Glad to see you getting the connections to the mountain part of the layout and track improvements. Looks like it will be quite a lot more fun!
I was a little concerned about the "S" curve connector to the mountain section but it looks gentle enough not to cause derailments. In fact, it looks smoother than the "S" curves that happen at the crossover turnouts. This is cool to watch because I'm s l o w l y redoing my layout.
The previous owner of my layout had glued and nailed the roadbed and then nailed the track so it was a real pain to tear it up, especially since the ballast then glued it all even more.
I installed a couple of feet of new cork roadbed but had to take it up because I changed my mind. It was less trouble to pull up than the original but still, the latex caulk held more than you'd think. SO, my new rule - just use two fine lines of caulk (cut your caulk tube end like a professional - at an angle but just enough to make a tiny opening which allows a small, controlled, line of caulk) down the middle of each half the cork - it should be secure enough yet easy to remove with a chisel to change. We should admit that we or someone will want to change a layout in the future so may as well build with that in mind.
I saved all the old broken up cork and you could save the rubber roadbed to grind up for scenery or use somehow. I try to reuse/recycle everything I can because I'm very conscious of the need to conserve earth's resources, be wise in using them, and avoid waste - especially non-organic waste. In nature, EVERYTHING gets reused/recycled and reconfigured. When we fully develop a circular economy, life will be healthier, better for all and more sustainable - and we can enjoy doing our amazing, creative, fun hobbies like model railroading!
I added a small straight section to the S curve which I think helped a lot. I'm not too inclined to save the foam roadbed since it doesn't seem to do anything well but I will be saving all the cork. I didn't mention it in the video but the section under the S curve was made with reclaimed cork. I'm completely onboard with minimizing waste and agree that we live in a throw away world. I'll try to fix anything before throwing it out, even if it's practically worthless.
@@SMTMainline Cool! And you certainly fix a lot of engines that many people would probably throw away. Admire your work and persistence. Love your channel!
@@SMTMainline Oops, may have accidentally gave thumb down.
But, related to using natural, organic materials for scenery - the previous owner of my layout had made a tunnel using paper machete made from paper and flour I think. Well, mice got into the basement, went in the tunnel and made a nest and a mess! They peed on the steel track, which pitted it and corroded it badly! Had to abandon that line when I got the layout. Since then I removed all the steel rail but am keeping the abundant brass thinking it will be fine if do the track treatment according to the video at Ron's Trains n Things titled like, Stop Cleaning Your Track
That new layout looks great. Awesome. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Great work Harrison, new track is always exciting! Surprised you did not use your track testing engine the green Burlington Athearn. It has served you well, probably deserves its 15 minutes of fame on one of the livestreams one day. Take care, Jeff.
Yes I’ve used the foam underlay on my layout. As you say it’s not as good as cork but I’m too far in to change out the foam out. Nice to see your changes happening.
I'm glad it didn't cause as many issues for you.
Nice improvements on the layout, plus you know I'm partial to the LRC, so it was nice to see it on the track! Kudos!
Thank you Peter. I can understand why the LRC would be a favourite of yours :)
Nice use of the extra space 👍
Nice train lay out I have a small train layout at my grandma's house
Harrison,
Howdy. That older brass track will work fine. I have mine from the 70s and 80s. Just needs to be cleaned regularly. And those switches can be wired up and remotely thrown. You may want to consider this for something in the future. Good luck.
I've been using brass track for years with the same experience. It's not the best but it gets the job done just fine.
Inspired by this . I'm off today so time to go at the layout thanks
I have a 4x8 which has 2 mainlines plus an upper layer for local freight
Great updates bud. I'd definitely recommend trying your worst cars and engines on new tracks, they'll find ALL the defects.
Very good presentation. I am inspired!
And thus everything was connected together! A true railroad system has been formed!
It helps to make changes and know where and when.... on my layout that I purchased second hand it had the foam underlay and I removed it and now have no underlay or cork bed it is much better and id rather hear the clickety clack of the wheels going over the joins than any fake sounds etc.. but thats just me... but with my new layout im designing at present it will have just an underlay foam carpet type stuff.. and no ballast or anything that will be it as im not one for scenery or cork or ballast.. i just want to run trains.. haha.. keep up the great videos.. thanks for another great one.. cheers from Melbourne Australia.. Tim.
Great video happy to see you adding more to your layout
Word of advice, clean that track. I love the content, and I'm getting inspired to try my own unboxing/expansion videos!
I've already started, that brass track certainly needs it.
@@SMTMainline Most certainly
Harrison: it looks as the Foreman Nerf Cat, likes the new track. He didn't swat at the trains to stop. L0l. Keep having fun. Peace
Outstanding work nerf cat looking like he approved it
I have some of those brass custom line switches from thirty years ago and they still work just fine. Plus I’m too cheap to tear them out and replace with new ns ones lol
I don't see a problem with brass track. Sure, you have to clean it more regularly but it gets the job done.
wow very nice just watched your building a layout vlog cya next time
Great modifications to the layout and can’t wait to see some steam locomotives running on the new section soon 👍
Ever consider raising the tracks on the mountain area up and running track on the mountain surface as well as tunnels.The farther away a car/loco is from your seat the more difficult it is to see. Raising the far away stuff provides a better visual,and it's easy to do. A guy I knew had book cases instead of legs for his set up and faced them away on the far side and attached his hills/mountains to the backs and used the shelf part for engines and cars etc.
It's not impossible but it would be a challenge. The hill can't be raised without raising the entire section otherwise it would become too steep to climb. It would be much easier to come up with a more compact support system.
Also, instead of using cork, I have found using carpet padding to be a great substitute for cork and reduces noise even more.
I wonder if this might give just enough clearence for that 3-in-1 ABA diesel to corner? great video as always!
I was thinking that myself. I think if I modify the locomotive it might work now.
In the past I've used wooden shims that you can buy at a hardware store to put under the track to make transitions between high points and low points
One of the things I wanna mention is cheap and easy trees, an old Christmas tree artificial that the cut off branches can be used as evergreen trees.
I'll try that.
Upgrading the train layout is worth the investment n makes it more better to add more tracks to the layout n bigger operation
For sure. So far this upgrade has worked out very well.
Nice vid. Shows improvements aren't as daunting as some may think. One of the things I've discovered over the years, DCC HATES dirty track. I noticed you use a good bit of Conducta-lube. That was originally made by Aero-car. Atlas acquired their products some time ago. I still have a lot of the 3 pack they use to sell, Conducta, Bearing Lube, and Gear Lube. The gear lube is a solid until it's touched, then it goes liquid. Really works well. The smallest drop of the bearing lube quiets down some of the squealiest (new word) bearings, especially the block type. Nice work all around.
Thanks for the advice!
I'm late to the show. As far as traditional oval layouts for continuous running are concerned, yours is about as interesting as I've seen. But my favorite location is the figure 8 inside the oval. I had a figure 8 layout as a child in the 70s. In an old Atlas track plans book, there was a figure 8 that was routed to and from an oval with mountains hiding part of it just like yours until you started changing it. I changed mine a lot. I ended up changing my figure 8 to a double mainline oval and then changed it some more.
Great work kid! Love it. Longer track means longer run time. Time to run three trains at the same. Yes, that’s right, I challenge you.
"I've been working on the railroad, all the livelong day." Tuesday I built a Walthers Cornerstone kit, chicken coops and sheds. Got it all painted and looks great. Yesterday I got a Tichy Train Group flatcar built and painted. I spent as much time chasing parts across the floor than I did building it. Lots of cussing and swearing and ended up breaking every stirrup off as I was adding the bronze/phosphor wire grab irons. It came with plastic grab irons as well as the metal ones. Today I made some new stirrups out of staples and got them glued on and repainted. I ended up painting every board on the flat car and made each board a little different color than the others; kept mixing paint as I went. Came out looking like real wood after the last black wash with acrylic and alcohol. Today I painted (primed) 9 HO scale 1920's autos and cut the ends off of 200 popsicle sticks with my little razor saw and aluminum miter box. All done by hand and got 50 of 'em stained. Still waiting on MircoMart to get the mini tabletop saws back in stock. I scratch build a lot and need a little saw to help.
Every time I turn around you're either building someone a new layout or changing yours around. You remind me of....me! Gotta stay busy. I was wondering about the foam type of roadbed. I see I made the correct choice to stick with cork. I assume your layout is in the basement so it looks like you've got plenty of room for expansion. Do you use flex track? I plan to use flex track for my next build. I've already got 75 feet of nickel silver flex track and 75 feet of cork roadbed. I've got a few old Atlas switches that are brass and I want to update to use all nickel silver.
Nice job on the expansion, Harrison. Cheers from an old modeler in eastern TN
Rusty Lane - SMT uses both sectional and flex track on the layout. Thank you for the tips and experiences on building a Tichy Train Group freight car - I bought a boxcar kit that I have yet to paint and build. Thank you for the tip on forming stirrup steps from staples - they do have the right cross section! You sound like a very prolific modeler!
I use flex track on all the straight sections. It works well for wider, more realistic corners too however you need to be careful when connecting it to another piece of track. When you curve the track, one rail becomes longer than the other and must be cut to the exact specification, if you change the radius of the curve while doing this it will ether be too short or too long. The rail also has a tendency to slide backwards or forwards in the ties which makes it easy to mess up a cut.
@@Petemonster62 Thanks, I try to do my best and get out as cheap as possible. I decided on the desk staples because they were a little less bulky than my Swingline stapler. Cheers - TN
Great content Harrison!!
Nicely done and a nice layout!
That was a great idea. Just have to work out a couple of bug's out. More like a hickup than anything
Nice upgrades Harrison 👍
Great work!! Thank you for sharing!
Good job in the HO scale layout.
Where is you 🐱 ?
Scooby Doo bited the tail.
Scooby barked to you 🐱.
😼 with my dog, Scooby Doo.
I just tore a whole 4 x5 old display and down to the wood. Fun times😅
That is so cool I wonder if the big boy could run the mountain part of the layout 🧐
Love the update! I hope you don’t mind me asking, but who won the Rapido mystery box?
The draw hasn't been completed. I had a problem with 1/2 of the giveaway locomotives so I ordered a replacement, which I now have on hand. I will probably tack it onto the back of a video about going to NYC.
@@SMTMainline I really hope I win, especially that CN locomotive. There’s no chance for me though 😂
I really would recommend putting down nickel-silver turnouts there under the new section for long-term reliability (especially in a tunnel!) , and save the brass turnouts for somewhere that only railcars will go, but not engines. An old industrial siding, for example, or a modeled section of rarely used or abandoned track. Nothing takes the fun out of running your trains like having them stop in tunnels due to corrosion or oxidation of the brass track. 😢
I will if I redo that section of the track. Even if I replace them with nickel silver most of the track is still brass so I would have to replace it at the same time.
If you can, on the tunnel part of the mountain area, try to lift the supports below the track that runs above, and shimmy it a bit... nothing much, put a couple of wooden plates might do it...
I can't raise the track above it since it would make the hill too steep for trains to climb. It was not a great design on my part.
During a bad storm my basement flooded very slightly causing the wooden legs of the layout table you swell and warp creating a slight incline on one side but i didnt notice it untill 2 years after it formed when i was relaying stuff. Lucky that it was so slight it didnt let couplers uncouple ir derail anything
I've had some similar issues. I kept having derailments un a corner, it turned out a nail under the track had somehow lifted and was pushing the roadbed up.
Hey SMTmainline if you’re ever in Victoria British Columbia I think you would have a blast at BC HOBBIES with there good selection of HO SCALE locomotives and rolling stock
2:25 Hello police? There's a giant attacking the downtown! Send help! 😄😄
Good work, SMT!
Cool Nerf cat still alive and kicking!
He's an old boy but life hasn't taken the fight out of him
Great video! Please mention how you connect code 100 track to code 83 track in the next layout video. Also mention what you do to fill gaps between track sections.
I believe they sell special pieces of track to do that. If not you could bend a rail joiner to lower the code 100 rail to the same level as 83. I'd add some solder to make sure it stays in place though.
@@SMTMainline @Klund110 howdy SMT is correct as usual. You can now buy ready made connectors. Many of have other methods, but most involve soldering. Look for code 83 to code 100 track adapters. cheers.
Looks beautiful!
Nice work changes on your ho scale layout Harrison and I see nerf cat chillin.