Its the old wipe the machines down with kerosene trick! In the old Audel's machinist handy book it states Wipe your machines down with kerosene, it keeps the paint looking fresh and the bright work bright.
I have Sanford wrist myself LOL. I ground 5 blocks of steel 1 in each corner and 1 in the middle of the chuck. Did it dry and they were with in 2 tenths, Then regound them with flood coolant and were with in 1 tenth. My grinder was made in 1957 so I think its good to go. Thanks
Still working on the tool cutter grinder, but I was wanting a surface grinder too and that is exactly what I was hoping to find ! I’m very happy to see you running yours, and the fact that you have one tells me it’s a good choice. You tend to have very good taste in machine tools. Very relaxing video too Sir. Isn’t it incredible what these ol machines can do in the proper hands. I’m glad to hear you got to enjoy some Sun too, it’s been miserable here in Indy the last few days. But it did warm up a bit today. Hope you’re doing good Sir. Thanks for the video ! 👍
@@jasonhull5712 the old machines are great. They just can’t deliver modern production requirements. But for us, manual equipment is dandy. I can’t get to check old machinery out these days, and you really,y need to before buying, so I have to buy new.
I was using this grinder mostly for Timken bearing spacers and spacers used for endplay and centering shafts in transmissions, this saved huge on inventory on multiple sizes of expensive spacers as I could buy just a few sizes of each type and grind to a more exact fit. I will demo that holding of thin rings and the gaging I used. There are a lot of grinders on the used market and likely will be a lot more....
I get bored before I finish most parts. Grinding the table and vise (both sides) almost killed me with boredom. Claugh42 (hope I spelled it correctly). Got a new ACRA grinder. He’s a software engineer, among other things. He designed and built an automatic X and Y feed for his machine. It’s worth looking at.
How would you flat side a stainless steel one inch ball bearing on your grinder. I have a 618 and fear a catastrophic catch. Why is your grinder so noisy? Under no load mine makes nearly no noise. Are your bearings okay? Is it just the camera picking it up and magnifying it?
Why is the grinder noisy? He said it himself, most likely the old grease in the bearings caused them to get fucked up to a degree... Spindle grease has recommended shelf life of 5 years, admitted to last longer if well preserved(no moisture, air, dust or direct uv/ir light, etc) by every manufacturer, but it is stated that using it past 5 years of active use or even inactive use is at your own caution and risk... How would you grind the ball? Collet chuck block, packed well with other blocky stock to keep it still... Chuck the ball in a collet with the midpoint of the ball being seated below the lip or top of the collet, squeeze her in there and give `er the flat-head... You could dabble with v-blocks and packing and shit, but a collet block(er type) is going to be ridiculously versatile for a bunch of other stuff you might want to grind, so it is worth snatching an import set for the quick solution of this problem and potential discoveries before you decide to get a high grade piece or make your own... To touch on the collet solution for the ball - a collet block with a positive depth stop(a screw from the rear) could be a good idea, the ball has only but a ring of contact to retain it, so a hard-stop on ``the bottom of the ball`` might be useful to keep the ball from sinking - however unlikely that is to happen... Best regards! Steuss
I asked as I watched and had to stop to reload the mill. Being early to the post I thought it was unusual and it sparked my concern that it was something I needed to check on my machine spindle or motor. Usually because videos are edited the poster addresses the issue up front, " my spindle bearing are making noise which I will address." If I wait till the end to comment RUclips moves me on to the next video comment section if I don't pause it before I finish typing.
@@FrancisoDoncona I get ya, i don`t run videos on playlists nor autoplay any longer, but i used to have that issue when i did... Yeah, regarding maintenance and service, watch Stefan`s latest video, or at least i think it`s his latest vid... His mill routine maintenance is the minimum one should offer any of their machines... Take some time if you haven`t in a while, and tear down the whole machine, check the motor bearings, maybe blast them with brake cleaner, repack them and plop the seals back in place, maybe replace them if required... Check the spindle bearings(watch Robin Renz`s video on precision spindle rebuild before that and in the minimum emulate what he does...), check the ways, screws, nuts, screw and gear bearings if machine has any and so on... Exchange the way wipers often if machine is not 100% sealed with way covers and guards... Yadda yadda, you get the point... If you wonder if you should check something on a machine - do so, better preemptive service than a failure mandated repair down the line... Best regards! Steuss P.s. Yeah, the collet block on a surface or a t&c.grinder is and can be a marvelous fixturing solution... V blocks have their place, but i kinda prefer them for shaft metrology over machine work-holding... I guess they are great workholding in EDM as it is contactless, but for round stuff of normal proportions - er collets go quite far, especially when you get into ER60 and large range collets...
I remember a set up another fellow was doing on a mill on aluminum balls using a three-jaw chuck with shaped soft jaws but didn't have to go past halfway cutting into the ball so the chuck jaws captured the ball, going to or past halfway on a ball would be much harder. I would fixture the ball in another machine to cut it close to size, perhaps glue it into a fixture and very lightly finish grind keeping the glue from melting. The mold shop guy used double stick carpet tape a lot on hard to hold parts and there is the low temperature melting metals for fixturing.
Yeah, that is the reason why I refuse to use my Schaublin 22 mill until I give her a total service of all lubricants and bearings... She may be a 50yo new-old-stock machine, but that grease is just old sludge that has no right being inside what are essentially unused bearings... You turn such a machine on and run her for a while and you have ruined bearings that could have lasted you a decade or few, just because you were relying on lubricant that likely went semi-solid from oxidation... It`s just a terrible idea overall to neglect servicing machinery, especially the lubricants... I guess that pressurized oil bearings systems may be superior in that way, but those can be a bitch should the source of pressure decide to spit a few chunks into the system or seize for whatever reason... Ahhh, the constant bother and compromises - and all that a machinist ever really wants is just the simplicity of Perfection... I guess that that kinda explains the Masonic order which did the same with different materials and wound up seeking The Lord, having realized that not even the stone(nor the machine) offers Perfection... Tho, that is a nice little grinder... You maybe should have blasted the bearings with brake cleaner at some point and splooged in some spindle grease, channeling the grease by hand and reassembling the whole thing, or rather closing it back up - if it is possible to access rear and front bearings without major disassembly... Otherwise it appears as a beautifully maintained machine, like all your other machines... You have my commendations for that - it is always a pleasure seeing an operator that is a dedicated care-taker of the machines... Best regards! Steuss
The spindle in the Harig is of simple design using a pair of angular contact precision bearings that are spring loaded with a Belville washer. In my experience the best course is to replace the bearings in both the spindle and the motor. The microphone tends to pick up mechanical noise more, the machine however is working good for now. Third degree, third generation Master Mason here, they talk the talk but don't do the walk in these times, moldy bitter old men that cant build a thing in my experience.
@@DonDyarprecision In nomine Patris, et Filii, et Spiritus Sancti - heil to you, Trinitarian brother! I do have quite the reverence for the Masonic foundations and what the Order stood for in days of yore... Speaking of the machines, oh yeah, changing the spindle bearings without checking the drive system(motor and potential idlers and what not) bearings is quite a sloppy omission... Fully agreed there... The worst part is that the spindle and motor potentially could have lasted longer, or rather - their bearings could have if lube-serviced more often, which is quite amazing given their current age... Remarkable is alloy steel indeed... Kindest regards and best wishes! Steuss
I’m always amazed at how nice your old machines and tooling look.
Its the old wipe the machines down with kerosene trick! In the old Audel's machinist handy book it states Wipe your machines down with kerosene, it keeps the paint looking fresh and the bright work bright.
The other wish list item, other than the Harig grinding indexer, is a Harig surface grinder. Thanks for the tutorial Don. Love your shop!👍
Hi, thanks!
I have Sanford wrist myself LOL. I ground 5 blocks of steel 1 in each corner and 1 in the middle of the chuck. Did it dry and they were with in 2 tenths, Then regound them with flood coolant and were with in 1 tenth. My grinder was made in 1957 so I think its good to go. Thanks
The grinder that last ground on this piece was out .0015".
Still working on the tool cutter grinder, but I was wanting a surface grinder too and that is exactly what I was hoping to find !
I’m very happy to see you running yours, and the fact that you have one tells me it’s a good choice. You tend to have very good taste in machine tools.
Very relaxing video too Sir.
Isn’t it incredible what these ol machines can do in the proper hands.
I’m glad to hear you got to enjoy some Sun too, it’s been miserable here in Indy the last few days. But it did warm up a bit today.
Hope you’re doing good Sir. Thanks for the video ! 👍
@@jasonhull5712 the old machines are great. They just can’t deliver modern production requirements. But for us, manual equipment is dandy. I can’t get to check old machinery out these days, and you really,y need to before buying, so I have to buy new.
I was using this grinder mostly for Timken bearing spacers and spacers used for endplay and centering shafts in transmissions, this saved huge on inventory on multiple sizes of expensive spacers as I could buy just a few sizes of each type and grind to a more exact fit. I will demo that holding of thin rings and the gaging I used.
There are a lot of grinders on the used market and likely will be a lot more....
Hi Don, good to see you doing great, Paulie Brown❤
Hi Paulie, thanks!
I get bored before I finish most parts. Grinding the table and vise (both sides) almost killed me with boredom. Claugh42 (hope I spelled it correctly). Got a new ACRA grinder. He’s a software engineer, among other things. He designed and built an automatic X and Y feed for his machine. It’s worth looking at.
Automatic feeds would be Deluxe!
Nicely done.. nice finish.. when did you last grind the chuck? thanks for sharing
Hi, thanks
How would you flat side a stainless steel one inch ball bearing on your grinder. I have a 618 and fear a catastrophic catch.
Why is your grinder so noisy? Under no load mine makes nearly no noise. Are your bearings okay? Is it just the camera picking it up and magnifying it?
Why is the grinder noisy? He said it himself, most likely the old grease in the bearings caused them to get fucked up to a degree... Spindle grease has recommended shelf life of 5 years, admitted to last longer if well preserved(no moisture, air, dust or direct uv/ir light, etc) by every manufacturer, but it is stated that using it past 5 years of active use or even inactive use is at your own caution and risk...
How would you grind the ball? Collet chuck block, packed well with other blocky stock to keep it still... Chuck the ball in a collet with the midpoint of the ball being seated below the lip or top of the collet, squeeze her in there and give `er the flat-head... You could dabble with v-blocks and packing and shit, but a collet block(er type) is going to be ridiculously versatile for a bunch of other stuff you might want to grind, so it is worth snatching an import set for the quick solution of this problem and potential discoveries before you decide to get a high grade piece or make your own...
To touch on the collet solution for the ball - a collet block with a positive depth stop(a screw from the rear) could be a good idea, the ball has only but a ring of contact to retain it, so a hard-stop on ``the bottom of the ball`` might be useful to keep the ball from sinking - however unlikely that is to happen...
Best regards!
Steuss
Also, it’s where it’s situated. The cloth in back is reflecting sound to the mic.
I asked as I watched and had to stop to reload the mill. Being early to the post I thought it was unusual and it sparked my concern that it was something I needed to check on my machine spindle or motor. Usually because videos are edited the poster addresses the issue up front, " my spindle bearing are making noise which I will address." If I wait till the end to comment RUclips moves me on to the next video comment section if I don't pause it before I finish typing.
Collet block is a great idea, a circular contact point. Could even reference it to multiple planes and make match sets.
@@FrancisoDoncona I get ya, i don`t run videos on playlists nor autoplay any longer, but i used to have that issue when i did...
Yeah, regarding maintenance and service, watch Stefan`s latest video, or at least i think it`s his latest vid... His mill routine maintenance is the minimum one should offer any of their machines... Take some time if you haven`t in a while, and tear down the whole machine, check the motor bearings, maybe blast them with brake cleaner, repack them and plop the seals back in place, maybe replace them if required... Check the spindle bearings(watch Robin Renz`s video on precision spindle rebuild before that and in the minimum emulate what he does...), check the ways, screws, nuts, screw and gear bearings if machine has any and so on... Exchange the way wipers often if machine is not 100% sealed with way covers and guards...
Yadda yadda, you get the point... If you wonder if you should check something on a machine - do so, better preemptive service than a failure mandated repair down the line...
Best regards!
Steuss
P.s.
Yeah, the collet block on a surface or a t&c.grinder is and can be a marvelous fixturing solution... V blocks have their place, but i kinda prefer them for shaft metrology over machine work-holding... I guess they are great workholding in EDM as it is contactless, but for round stuff of normal proportions - er collets go quite far, especially when you get into ER60 and large range collets...
Speed everything up 4X and it will not be so tedious and take so long like everyone else does 🤣End result looked pretty good from here anyway. cheers
I could have a heart attack speeding anything up at this point, but I think showed the painful reality of having an all manual surface grinder?
Don, I get the feeling you have a lot of machining savvy in your head.
I remember a set up another fellow was doing on a mill on aluminum balls using a three-jaw chuck with shaped soft jaws but didn't have to go past halfway cutting into the ball so the chuck jaws captured the ball, going to or past halfway on a ball would be much harder. I would fixture the ball in another machine to cut it close to size, perhaps glue it into a fixture and very lightly finish grind keeping the glue from melting. The mold shop guy used double stick carpet tape a lot on hard to hold parts and there is the low temperature melting metals for fixturing.
Yeah, that is the reason why I refuse to use my Schaublin 22 mill until I give her a total service of all lubricants and bearings... She may be a 50yo new-old-stock machine, but that grease is just old sludge that has no right being inside what are essentially unused bearings... You turn such a machine on and run her for a while and you have ruined bearings that could have lasted you a decade or few, just because you were relying on lubricant that likely went semi-solid from oxidation... It`s just a terrible idea overall to neglect servicing machinery, especially the lubricants... I guess that pressurized oil bearings systems may be superior in that way, but those can be a bitch should the source of pressure decide to spit a few chunks into the system or seize for whatever reason... Ahhh, the constant bother and compromises - and all that a machinist ever really wants is just the simplicity of Perfection... I guess that that kinda explains the Masonic order which did the same with different materials and wound up seeking The Lord, having realized that not even the stone(nor the machine) offers Perfection...
Tho, that is a nice little grinder... You maybe should have blasted the bearings with brake cleaner at some point and splooged in some spindle grease, channeling the grease by hand and reassembling the whole thing, or rather closing it back up - if it is possible to access rear and front bearings without major disassembly... Otherwise it appears as a beautifully maintained machine, like all your other machines... You have my commendations for that - it is always a pleasure seeing an operator that is a dedicated care-taker of the machines...
Best regards!
Steuss
The spindle in the Harig is of simple design using a pair of angular contact precision bearings that are spring loaded with a Belville washer. In my experience the best course is to replace the bearings in both the spindle and the motor. The microphone tends to pick up mechanical noise more, the machine however is working good for now.
Third degree, third generation Master Mason here, they talk the talk but don't do the walk in these times, moldy bitter old men that cant build a thing in my experience.
@@DonDyarprecision In nomine Patris, et Filii, et Spiritus Sancti - heil to you, Trinitarian brother! I do have quite the reverence for the Masonic foundations and what the Order stood for in days of yore...
Speaking of the machines, oh yeah, changing the spindle bearings without checking the drive system(motor and potential idlers and what not) bearings is quite a sloppy omission... Fully agreed there... The worst part is that the spindle and motor potentially could have lasted longer, or rather - their bearings could have if lube-serviced more often, which is quite amazing given their current age... Remarkable is alloy steel indeed...
Kindest regards and best wishes!
Steuss