At a loss for words for your talent and willingness to share that talent is greatly appreciated by this long time modeler. (now retired), truly inspirational. Thank you for posting❤.
This video series is so incredibly valuable to our community. Thank you for putting in the (non-trivial) planning, filming, and editing time. We all benefit enormously from your generosity. As a way of thanking you, I'm going to make one of these props for my Gollywock that is receiving its final coat of dope today.
Thx, Matt. Have fun with your Gollywock. I was a scale builder for 30 years before I built my first Golly, and it has changed my feelings toward FF forever. Such a beautiful ship, majestic and floaty. Hope you hold onto her for a long while.
WOW is all I can say!😮, I’m starting new after 40 year absence and this makes me realize how little I know..lol..but I am learning the great possibilities thanks to you. Outstanding work in all aspects, Thank you…
Thank you so much for doing these tutorials. I've been watching for a long time and have learned so much from you. From inspiring me to build different types of planes to learning small things through videos such as these you have made my experience in this hobby wonderful. There is a certain art to this hobby and your videos compliment it so well. I have been watching and following along since high school and your videos deliver such a peaceful atmosphere during times of stress. Now, I'll be finishing up college with a degree in aerospace engineering and I hope to continue following along. Thank you Tom.
That's terrific. Thx for sharing your experience...and good luck in the future. But keep building when time allows. Thru some of the toughest or most stressful times in my life, building has been a calming escape. We all need something, so why not balsa & FF?
Grand work again Tom. I personally would like to hear you saying something about what you are doing, giving advice and instructions. Thank you for this.
Thx for the nudge, David. I hadn't remembered that I had filmed the process with the Boeing props last year around this time, so I became inspired this week after finding them in the digital archives.
This video is just full of great information! It's not the fact that props can be made from cottage cheese containers, but the way you have solved so many problems in the execution of construction that had me slapping my forehead. For example: the towel, holding the bamboo dowel on a roll of tape while working on it, using an emery board as a straight-edge, etc, etc, etc. The emery board was particularly mind-blowing. How many times have I tried to hold a 6" SS ruler up against a tiny dowel only to have the dowel slide away under the pressure of the slick, thin edge of the ruler? Your craftsmanship exceeds the norm in every way, but your techniques can only improve our efforts. Thanks for posting!
Thx Ken. Some of the approach evolved in recent years, once I started filming the process. Like everyone else, parts started sliding around, so the towel, taped to the table, changed everything with regard to leverage. Now I use it routinely, whether I'm filming or not.
Your video is very informative and covers every step. Your enthusiasm and love for the art of free flight models comes through it also. I really enjoy your videos, they are so well done and the music makes them a relaxing expierience to watch. Thanks. Look forward to your columns in the AMA Magazine.
A brilliant deep dive tutorial! Packed with great ideas, but if I had to pick one it might be the hints on providing benching for these miniature tasks; using a roll of tape for the fine metalwork is great, using the side of the roll as a tiny bench getting your fingers in the middle; also the use of a towel.. These things can seem obvious once pointed out, but not before; just like good basic technique in musical instrument playing. That Boeing Delta really is impressive, and I wonder if you intend to do another Ryan, to replace the one that got away? Thank you Tom for another great film! ⭐👍
Thx, William. Yeah, the more I see that Ryan, the more I'm missing her. Writing might be on the wall. I haven't given an OOS model a second chance in recent years, but the Ryan's voice seems to be getting louder with each passing month.
@@maxfliart Well I know I'm not the only commentator who's asked the question.. I think the metallic look of the thing gives it a kind of wistful air, as it claws it's way skywards.. Go on Tom, it'll be worth it! ⭐👍
Beautiful job! Two questions: (1) I wonder if this prop can be used with an ultra low Kv (like 300) motor and 7.4V battery. Have you ever tried it? (2) Have you ever made a 3-bladed or 4-bladed prop, using this technique?
Wondering whether that sanding dust is healthy. Recommend a dust mask or use wet paper and wash it away. Drawing the circle for the nose cone, punch a hole in the card to slip over the post,, small hole for pencil or pen point, draw continuous circle.
Re-National Library Of Medicine: The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and Japan Society for Occupational Health (JSOH) classified wood dust as a human carcinogen. Former studies have suggested that sanding with a portable sander is one of the processes that are liable to cause highest exposure to wood dust. However, the wood dust by sanding operation has not been investigated sufficiently. In this study, the generation rate and the particle size distribution of the wood dust produced by handheld sanding operation were observed by laboratory experiments. Methods: Beech and cypress were taken as typical hard and soft wood specimen respectively, and sanded with a portable sander. Three grades of sand paper (coarse, medium, fine) were attached to the sander in turn to be tested. The quantity of the wood dust produced by the sander was measured by weighing the specimen before and after the sanding and then the generation rate of the dust was calculated. Results: Soft wood generated more dust than hard wood due to the difference in abrasion durability. A coarse sand paper produced more dust than a fine sand paper. The particles of less than 1 μm diameter were scarcely observed in the wood dust. When the specimens were sanded with a fine sand paper, the mass median aerodynamic diameters of beech dust and cypress dust were 9.0 μm and 9.8 μm, respectively. Conclusions: Respirable wood dust is able to be controlled by general ventilation with more than 0.7-4.2 m3/min ventilation rate. Relax
Thx. Any thin super glue would work, but I use Loctite because of their tight fitting cap. Note that I did scratch the surface of the plastic to created a rough area for better adhesion. Glue on the smooth surface probably wouldn't hold the joint nearly as well.
Thanks for the great video. I am a beginner in this hobby. So I would appreciate your answer to my question. Is it better to have a light prop and more weight in the nose, or a heavier prop and less weight in the nose?
Thank you for posting this, this was a major help. The free-wheeling hub was giving me trouble, it didn't occur to me to use stacked telescoping pieces of aluminum. I was also really interested in how you do the simulated lamination. It's just strips of painted masking?
Thx. For the faux lamination, I spray the prop the lightest value for the prop color, then cover that up with the low tack masking strips (I use Scotch 3M #811 tape in the blue box for this and tissue masking). Then I lightly airbrush the darker color on the prop, so when u peel off the masks, wa-la. Genuine fake imitation laminated props. :-)
Again, brilliance. Thank you. Have you covered re-covering an old model? I have inherited some models from the 70's where the tissue will break if you look at it funny 😅. Any tips on total re-cover or patching?
Yes, I've done that a few times, and other friends have recently done the same. It's pretty simple to strip the existing tissue, give the model a good sanding, then start fresh with new tissue. You'll have what appears to be a new model in no time. Ironically, here's a film showing the most recent model that I recovered: ruclips.net/video/bhiykB0z-Do/видео.html
It has perfect tootorial. For me I put make similar but if I make as good as you I gladly never mind too much poopie from ricotta (I am lactose ignorant) if my prop this good could be like you!!
We finally know the secret to your super human construction and flying capabilities. A simple dietary choice, we could never see. RICOTA CHEESE! : ) Who knew?
And I was the opposite...only learning how to carve after 30 years of FF. I loved it, and still carve, but this method has its place too, where carving falls short.
I have a few questions: 1. How did you arrive at the propeller shape 2. How did you arrive at the centre line of the blade 3. What size drill bit do you use for .047 wire, and last but not least 4. Do I have to actually eat the cottage cheeze? Yuck! Absolutely love your videos. I have them all in a special Maxfliart file and watch them all the time. It makes me feel like I am a part of the community again. Thank you so much.🥸
The blade shape has developed over the years, but many general designs will work for our rubber models. I just like the aesthetic of this blade for the larger models. The center line is just that...I put it down the middle, unless it needs to be nudged one way or the other to help avoid hitting the cowling etc. The brass tubing was bought from Easybuilt Models awhile back. They had 1/16" brass with the .047 ID., instead of the usual .032". Has been very useful. And yes, whenever I buy the Polly-O "ricotta" cheese, we make a large meal of lasagna. Nothing better! The Polly-O brand seems to have a noticeably thicker or tougher (less flimsy) plastic than other more generic brands.
Not only a first class tutorial. It's a cinematic work of art.
At a loss for words for your talent and willingness to share that talent is greatly appreciated by this long time modeler. (now retired), truly inspirational. Thank you for posting❤.
Thx, Paul. Glad u enjoy the films.
I have been building and flying now for 60+ years and I find your superb videos would have saved me a LOT of trial and error! Well done!
Thx.
This video series is so incredibly valuable to our community. Thank you for putting in the (non-trivial) planning, filming, and editing time. We all benefit enormously from your generosity. As a way of thanking you, I'm going to make one of these props for my Gollywock that is receiving its final coat of dope today.
Thx, Matt. Have fun with your Gollywock. I was a scale builder for 30 years before I built my first Golly, and it has changed my feelings toward FF forever. Such a beautiful ship, majestic and floaty. Hope you hold onto her for a long while.
The joy you must experience from tossing a model skyward where you literally handcrafted every single piece of it. Really beautiful
WOW is all I can say!😮, I’m starting new after 40 year absence and this makes me realize how little I know..lol..but I am learning the great possibilities thanks to you. Outstanding work in all aspects, Thank you…
Thx. Welcome back. Enjoy!
Absolutely defines gorgeous for aeronautics.
Once again , I’m speechless on your masterclasses. They are unique!!!
A fantastic look into an artist's mind! Thank you sir.
Thank you so much for doing these tutorials. I've been watching for a long time and have learned so much from you. From inspiring me to build different types of planes to learning small things through videos such as these you have made my experience in this hobby wonderful. There is a certain art to this hobby and your videos compliment it so well. I have been watching and following along since high school and your videos deliver such a peaceful atmosphere during times of stress. Now, I'll be finishing up college with a degree in aerospace engineering and I hope to continue following along. Thank you Tom.
That's terrific. Thx for sharing your experience...and good luck in the future. But keep building when time allows. Thru some of the toughest or most stressful times in my life, building has been a calming escape. We all need something, so why not balsa & FF?
So many beautiful aircraft. 😍
Absolutely beautiful workmanship. Thanks again for taking your time to share this knowledge.
Your videos from today or yesteryear never cease to amaze me. You are a craftsman.
Grand work again Tom. I personally would like to hear you saying something about what you are doing, giving advice and instructions.
Thank you for this.
Thank you so much! I didn't expect the video this soon 😳
Thx for the nudge, David. I hadn't remembered that I had filmed the process with the Boeing props last year around this time, so I became inspired this week after finding them in the digital archives.
This video is just full of great information! It's not the fact that props can be made from cottage cheese containers, but the way you have solved so many problems in the execution of construction that had me slapping my forehead. For example: the towel, holding the bamboo dowel on a roll of tape while working on it, using an emery board as a straight-edge, etc, etc, etc. The emery board was particularly mind-blowing. How many times have I tried to hold a 6" SS ruler up against a tiny dowel only to have the dowel slide away under the pressure of the slick, thin edge of the ruler? Your craftsmanship exceeds the norm in every way, but your techniques can only improve our efforts. Thanks for posting!
Thx Ken. Some of the approach evolved in recent years, once I started filming the process. Like everyone else, parts started sliding around, so the towel, taped to the table, changed everything with regard to leverage. Now I use it routinely, whether I'm filming or not.
Yet another most excellent and informative video on the art and science of free flight model airplane building. A handshake, Tommy!
I really like the peaceful music and well made slideshow. Thank you for what you do.
Wonderful work, and very helpful!
This is a hugely helpful video. Thank you Tom.
Nicely done, beautiful music too
Your video is very informative and covers every step. Your enthusiasm and love for the art of free flight models comes through it also. I really enjoy your videos, they are so well done and the music makes them a relaxing expierience to watch. Thanks. Look forward to your columns in the AMA Magazine.
Thx, John. Good to hear ur enjoying them.
A brilliant deep dive tutorial! Packed with great ideas, but if I had to pick one it might be the hints on providing benching for these miniature tasks; using a roll of tape for the fine metalwork is great, using the side of the roll as a tiny bench getting your fingers in the middle; also the use of a towel.. These things can seem obvious once pointed out, but not before; just like good basic technique in musical instrument playing. That Boeing Delta really is impressive, and I wonder if you intend to do another Ryan, to replace the one that got away?
Thank you Tom for another great film! ⭐👍
Thx, William. Yeah, the more I see that Ryan, the more I'm missing her. Writing might be on the wall. I haven't given an OOS model a second chance in recent years, but the Ryan's voice seems to be getting louder with each passing month.
@@maxfliart Well I know I'm not the only commentator who's asked the question.. I think the metallic look of the thing gives it a kind of wistful air, as it claws it's way skywards.. Go on Tom, it'll be worth it! ⭐👍
I like blocks of Pecorino Romano Parmesan Regiano...
Can I make Italian props for my Caproni model?
Haha. I'm starting to believe that 'anything' is possible these days. Cheers.
Good stuff, Bubs.
wow, that's a higher level of craftsmanship!! your prop blade shape is beautiful, where can I get a outline template?
Here's a link to the general shape for the prop blades. hallmanstudio.com/Prop_blades.pdf
Beautiful job! Two questions: (1) I wonder if this prop can be used with an ultra low Kv (like 300) motor and 7.4V battery. Have you ever tried it? (2) Have you ever made a 3-bladed or 4-bladed prop, using this technique?
I've never tried either. Why not give it a shot? Good luck
Perfeito meu amigo, obrigado por compartilhar seus conhecimento com todos nos!!!
Obrigado. Fico feliz que você goste dos filmes.
@@maxfliart One question my friend, does the diameter of the container to make the blades affect? And what is the ideal diameter?
Wondering whether that sanding dust is healthy. Recommend a dust mask or use wet paper and wash it away. Drawing the circle for the nose cone, punch a hole in the card to slip over the post,, small hole for pencil or pen point, draw continuous circle.
Re-National Library Of Medicine:
The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and Japan Society for Occupational Health (JSOH) classified wood dust as a human carcinogen. Former studies have suggested that sanding with a portable sander is one of the processes that are liable to cause highest exposure to wood dust. However, the wood dust by sanding operation has not been investigated sufficiently. In this study, the generation rate and the particle size distribution of the wood dust produced by handheld sanding operation were observed by laboratory experiments.
Methods:
Beech and cypress were taken as typical hard and soft wood specimen respectively, and sanded with a portable sander. Three grades of sand paper (coarse, medium, fine) were attached to the sander in turn to be tested. The quantity of the wood dust produced by the sander was measured by weighing the specimen before and after the sanding and then the generation rate of the dust was calculated.
Results:
Soft wood generated more dust than hard wood due to the difference in abrasion durability. A coarse sand paper produced more dust than a fine sand paper. The particles of less than 1 μm diameter were scarcely observed in the wood dust. When the specimens were sanded with a fine sand paper, the mass median aerodynamic diameters of beech dust and cypress dust were 9.0 μm and 9.8 μm, respectively.
Conclusions:
Respirable wood dust is able to be controlled by general ventilation with more than 0.7-4.2 m3/min ventilation rate.
Relax
Thanks you for posting , love your work , ? What super glue are you using to glue to slippery plastic
Thx. Any thin super glue would work, but I use Loctite because of their tight fitting cap. Note that I did scratch the surface of the plastic to created a rough area for better adhesion. Glue on the smooth surface probably wouldn't hold the joint nearly as well.
Thanks for the great video. I am a beginner in this hobby. So I would appreciate your answer to my question. Is it better to have a light prop and more weight in the nose, or a heavier prop and less weight in the nose?
A lighter prop is best, and less strain on the rubber. Ballast the nose block with lead as needed, if you want a cleaner look.
Thanks a lot
Superb.
Thank you for posting this, this was a major help. The free-wheeling hub was giving me trouble, it didn't occur to me to use stacked telescoping pieces of aluminum.
I was also really interested in how you do the simulated lamination. It's just strips of painted masking?
Thx. For the faux lamination, I spray the prop the lightest value for the prop color, then cover that up with the low tack masking strips (I use Scotch 3M #811 tape in the blue box for this and tissue masking). Then I lightly airbrush the darker color on the prop, so when u peel off the masks, wa-la.
Genuine fake imitation laminated props. :-)
@@maxfliart.............. voila
Again, brilliance. Thank you. Have you covered re-covering an old model? I have inherited some models from the 70's where the tissue will break if you look at it funny 😅. Any tips on total re-cover or patching?
Yes, I've done that a few times, and other friends have recently done the same. It's pretty simple to strip the existing tissue, give the model a good sanding, then start fresh with new tissue. You'll have what appears to be a new model in no time. Ironically, here's a film showing the most recent model that I recovered: ruclips.net/video/bhiykB0z-Do/видео.html
It has perfect tootorial.
For me I put make similar but if I make as good as you I gladly never mind too much poopie from ricotta (I am lactose ignorant) if my prop this good could be like you!!
❤
How did you determine the angle on your paper template?
It was suggested by my mentors long ago, so I didn't question it. Anywhere in the 15º to 17º range appears to be the sweet spot.
@@maxfliart thanks, if it isn't broke don't fix it!
We finally know the secret to your super human construction and flying capabilities. A simple dietary choice, we could never see. RICOTA CHEESE! : ) Who knew?
Indeed. Inspired / suggested by the Lasagna Council who has had an off again on again relationship with FF.
Can you make a plane half part method 26min video
Timing was perfect. I'm just about to make a yogurt pot prop.
I learned how to carve a balsa prop when I was seven years old and never needed to take the easy way out.
Good luck trying to carve an identical pair of opposed pitch props for a twin.
And I was the opposite...only learning how to carve after 30 years of FF. I loved it, and still carve, but this method has its place too, where carving falls short.
I never wanted to fly scale. To much of a challenge!@@UguysRnuts
Hmmm, might try it once, great video's though
I made lasagna yesterday. I watched this video as it cooked. Fished the empty cheese container out of the trash...
Hilarious, but uv found me out, as I look to inspire FF dumpster divers across the world.
....thanks man....
Bellissimo! Grazie Tom. I think I'll have to make some lasagna.
Haha...thx. Indeed, whenever I need prop material, we always have a fine lasagna meal. What could be better?!!
@@maxfliart Perfezione! As is everything you turn your hands to. They're the stars of the film.
@@maxfliart Where does the semi-elliptical blade planform you use come from?
ASMR propeller construction
Thx. There is something about the familiar sounds of the process.
I have a few questions:
1. How did you arrive at the propeller shape
2. How did you arrive at the centre line of the blade
3. What size drill bit do you use for .047 wire, and last but not least
4. Do I have to actually eat the cottage cheeze? Yuck!
Absolutely love your videos. I have them all in a special Maxfliart file and watch them all the time. It makes me feel like I am a part of the community again. Thank you so much.🥸
The blade shape has developed over the years, but many general designs will work for our rubber models. I just like the aesthetic of this blade for the larger models. The center line is just that...I put it down the middle, unless it needs to be nudged one way or the other to help avoid hitting the cowling etc. The brass tubing was bought from Easybuilt Models awhile back. They had 1/16" brass with the .047 ID., instead of the usual .032". Has been very useful. And yes, whenever I buy the Polly-O "ricotta" cheese, we make a large meal of lasagna. Nothing better! The Polly-O brand seems to have a noticeably thicker or tougher (less flimsy) plastic than other more generic brands.
I started building stick and tissue models (Megow and Comet) in 1950. None of mine came out as beautiful as yours. BZ.