Volvo T5 Engine Head Rebuild/Valve Job/Finding Tolerances. The Ultimate Volvo T5 Engine Rebuild.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- In this next segment of the series, we have already determined our head engine issue resulting in low compression. We walk you through a complete head tear down and build up, making sure EVERYTHING is 100% to Volvo spec.
Full write-up of the T5 engine rebuild series here: www.importsauc...
Next Video in Series: 500 miles later.. Coming Soon
Previous Video in Series: Troubleshooting our compression/timing/head issues.
• Troubleshooting the Bu...
Watch the entire series: • Volvo T5 Complete Engi...
Shout to our generous sponsors:
www.ipdusa.com/
www.elevatecar...
/ therealstegtva
This is exactly what the internet needed for us T5 owners. Thanks again dude
Hopefully it helps
So I had almost an identical spreadsheet with my T5 head rebuild. After 200K miles the intake clearances were still on the money. However, my exhaust valve clearances were all too tight, so tight that not even the smallest tappet available would bring my exhaust valves back into spec. I wound up grinding down the stems to bring everything back into spec as the seats are more than likely worn. Starting to reassemble everything now.
Oh wow, interesting, and good information.
Awesome build!
Thanks!
Grinding the ends of a valve stem is a piece of cake. Just set them up in a v block in a vise and touch off on the ends to take off the stock. You can't set zero and go though since the size you are after is not from the bottom of the valve, but the valve seat angle so it's a little tedious to touch each one to find zero but mine were really close, maybe within a thousandths of an inch. I'd probably charge 10 or 15 bucks a piece to do them and make plenty even with the set up and keeping them in order, so maybe you just need a better grinding specialist.
The problem I had was trying to measure the clearances before bending my feeler gauges. I ignored the hold down fixture and had the bad luck of old eyes that didn't notice my 8 and 9 thou gauges were rusted together. So 6 went good, 7 was sticky and the "8" was dead tight. What happened was the 6 and 7 were whippy enough to bend and when I double checked my readings with a 10, it was stiff enough to stick too. So i called them 7 and ground the first one to "spec". Ended up being .001 over spec when I found the mistake. Good thing I checked it instead of grinding all of them.
Moral of the long story, use the bent feeler gauges to do your checking on these engines. You can't get a good feel with the edges interfering with the measurements and I would assume this is the same even with the hold down fixture.
Mid spec on the exhaust was something like .013 I think and deflecting a 13 will take enough force to notice and throw off your readings.
Awesome content! I wouldn't have done this job without the tear down video
Sounds like you got it spot on with some lessons along the way!!! awesome and thanks for sharing,
Currently finishing rebuilding my cylinder head on my V50 T5 AWD. Have been spending the last couple days measuring the valve clearence x)
Hell yeah. Do it.
@@moosedroppings ended up having to order two tappets from the dealership, 16.04 and 16.08mm :) everything else I got into spec!
@@thestjani94 nice job, 2 tappets is easy work,
@moosedroppings if I sent you my 1998 T5 top and bottom, would you rebuild it
@@Shieldapr thanks for the vote, but this was our first time ever, and for some reason it worked, video was mainly to allow people to see they can attack themselves with determination.
So my engine block is being sleeved as of now, however, I waiting for the machine shop to take in the head. So when I reassemble the motor, do a try compression test and inspect it/have it inspected by the head machine shop? I also have new high grade calves, springs, retainers, and seals to go along with it since the final stage is a AWD k16 hybrid C30 that revs safely to 7500rpm.
anywhere i can follow your build?
do focus rs cv axles fit that platform? i'd get some forged moly cv's
Well you can’t compression check until the engine is assembled and at that point too late. For sure for sure a leak down test once the head is on. And checking every tolerance. For a k16 you want to assure your cam lobe tolerance is perrrrrrrfect.
@@moosedroppingswell, the shop I’m taking the head to is a race engine shop, but I have brand new head internals.
Full inconel valves, new seats and seals, new stainless steel springs. Basically, Viva’s full performance head suite with help across the pond with puma. I also have newman stage 2 cams. While I will be running a upgraded k04 for now (until AWD parts are assembled in the next few years) I would like my summer car back for a bit plus… Pumaspeed is rebuilding a used k16 and hybridizing it for me as we speak.
Now my main goal is max 411hp, tops for the awd setup to match power loss, with the k16. But I may have mentioned the bottom end suite is full race build. Forged I beams, race king xp bearings, but running forged 9.0 pistons since… I’m limiting myself to keep the car from going overboard. However, open deck elevate sleeves as opposed to closed deck or darton sleeves. Since it’s not a straight track car, but a fun daily, I intend for better cooling passages to keep her smoothly purring.
In other words, timing, build, any contingency is covered, seals and all, stud kits too.
Oh, and I should mention I’m gaining a second T5 and m66 from a cheap donor 2011 c30 that I got for $560 (interior is an actual biohazard from mold, like Ethan Winters RE8 level mold) however, 156k km motor and tranny, just needs a battery, but a second t5 is nice. Gonna part it out and swap body components onto my 08’.
@@shortbushero dude, looks like you got it all sorted, we are not far behind you, just need the newman 2s and the k16 and we calling it done.
I am in the process in troubleshooting the engine and it will crank but it will not start. I have a video of what is sounds like but I don't know what else it could be other than the timing or possible one of the modules but I am not sure. It is a 2009 Volvo C70 with 178,000 miles snd s 2.4L T5 engine.
do you have vida or at least a basic code scanner? that should at least point you in the correct direction, Could be anything, fuel pump, ecm, timing code,
@@MooseDroppings日本語版 I have a code scaner that i borrowed from family but whenever I plug it in and scan for codes it says it has no codes. What is a good basic code scanner for the C70? I am not sure it's my scanner or it's something else.
@@ChloieBower Got it, no check engine light, no code would be present, unless it is in the "Pending Codes" in which code will appear but no check engine light. VIDA would be the best, it will communicate with all modules of car and live test them, know anyone with the software?
@@moosedroppings So I would need to buy the VIDA 2014d software online and the DICE interface to see the codes on the computer or is there another way because I don't know anyone to lend me the scanner sadly.
@@ChloieBowerthat would be ideal. It’s a hassle getting it all configured. Another cheaper option is the Swedish dudes that make the software obd2 dongle. Name escapes me. A high end code scanner used by mechanics may provide more information but not as specific as vida. It just test it all manually. Check timing marks on crank and then make sure aligned to cam gears, confirm fuel pump is running. Check ignition wires and packs and all related fuses and relays
Would everything be the same for the i5 R head that came in the s60r and v70r?
I would same exactly the same…. However the tolerance spec may be different but those two numbers are easily enough found in vida or on SS