Neat video. I just bought a no.8 at a yard sale for $5. It has a lot of rust and I see it's missing the lateral adjusting lever. Can't wait to start taking it apart to cleanup.
This is such a great format . The handling and dialog is a wonderful learning tool . I watched this video and had to pause it and go out to my shop once I seen the type 5 lateral portion. Turns out I have one ( enter lawnmower dance here ) but never could discern until now . Keep these shows coming .
Excellent video Michael, I thought I was okay at typing Stanley planes but you just taught me a few things I didn't know. I now understand what the "nib" represents, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the detailed discussion. Over 15 years ago, in a state of COMPLETE ignorance, I bought a #7 C that was in sad shape. It had a cracked tote with a missing horn and broken frog with a sheared off lateral adjustment lever, but I thought I could put it back in working order, though at the time I did not even know how to sharpen and strop the iron. After watching this video I just HAD to go tear the plane down to see what marks it bore. The only marks on the body are “No 7,” and a large “S” in the tote recess. Shortly after I bought the plane, my brother gave me a replacement frog with a very faint 3-patent dates on the lateral, and an “S” on the casting. The iron has the “Q” logo which is meaningless as it probably replaced a pitted iron that came with the plane. The tote has since been repaired with the crack epoxied, and a piece of salvaged rosewood grafted in to replace the horn. The body was left with almost vanished japanning, the frog mounted and adjusted, the iron properly sharpened, and the chip breaker honed for close fit to the iron. I used the plane on last weekend to square up some salvaged lumber for a mailbox post, and it works great!
@@justplanefun Shoot, that was the EASY one! I bought a #4 1/2 smooth, on eBay and did not notice that it had small cracks at each corner of the mouth, I think it was from mis-adjustment of the frog at one point, or the lever cap screw was over-tightened putting too much pressure on the thin part of the casting. :-( I was just in too much of a hurry, and it was my fault. I ended up drilling 1/16” diameter stop-holes at the ends of the 1/4” long cracks, used the narrow cut-off wheel on the DREMEL to groove out the cracks, cleaned and preheated the body in the toaster oven at 450’F for an hour, fluxed and silver-brazed the cracks, popped the body back into the toaster oven and cooled it off over a couple of hours, filed and sanded everything nice and smooth and that seems to have done the trick. There are just two thin gold-colored veins of brazing filler visible. If I had to do it over again, I would have tried to find a local welding shop and have it TIG-welded, which done right, leaves an invisible repair. That seems to be the way to go, if you have the tools and the skills.
Michael, after watching several of your videos, the one thing I've learned is that I know nothing about planes. I thought I was pretty good but I was wrong. Thanks for getting me educated.
These are super helpful. I'd love it if you continued this with the defiance and habdyman series planes. This way, others like me don't Google what we have and think its some special type 3 Stanley, lol. In my defense, my wife bought it for me...
Wow loving your videos and it seems my Stanley no 4 is a type 6 Alpha frog has that little pimple but guess yours damaged as mine is same as type 6 at top. Would u have a genuine type 6 6a blade for a no 4 ? Thx
I have, what I believe to be, a type 6 No. 6 Stanley, for which I am searching for a front knob. If need be, I can message you on Facebook. Any help would be appreciated.
I did a lot of research before I started to use (buy) hand planes. I wished I had come across your videos. Very informative. What would you consider the best “type” for real use?
Neat video. I just bought a no.8 at a yard sale for $5. It has a lot of rust and I see it's missing the lateral adjusting lever. Can't wait to start taking it apart to cleanup.
Let me know how it goes!
I got more useful information out of this short video than I've gotten out of MANY trips to the flow charts. Thank you!
That’s great! I have more type study videos coming soon
This is such a great format . The handling and dialog is a wonderful learning tool . I watched this video and had to pause it and go out to my shop once I seen the type 5 lateral portion. Turns out I have one ( enter lawnmower dance here ) but never could discern until now . Keep these shows coming .
Excellent video Michael, I thought I was okay at typing Stanley planes but you just taught me a few things I didn't know. I now understand what the "nib" represents, thank you for sharing.
I appreciate you tuning in! Now I just need to find time to do the next couple videos in the series.
And the Bedrock video!
Another excellent video Michael. It's so nice to see all of the bits collected together along with the explanation of what's what.
Thanks Chuck!
Thanks for the detailed discussion. Over 15 years ago, in a state of COMPLETE ignorance, I bought a #7 C that was in sad shape. It had a cracked tote with a missing horn and broken frog with a sheared off lateral adjustment lever, but I thought I could put it back in working order, though at the time I did not even know how to sharpen and strop the iron.
After watching this video I just HAD to go tear the plane down to see what marks it bore. The only marks on the body are “No 7,” and a large “S” in the tote recess.
Shortly after I bought the plane, my brother gave me a replacement frog with a very faint 3-patent dates on the lateral, and an “S” on the casting. The iron has the “Q” logo which is meaningless as it probably replaced a pitted iron that came with the plane.
The tote has since been repaired with the crack epoxied, and a piece of salvaged rosewood grafted in to replace the horn. The body was left with almost vanished japanning, the frog mounted and adjusted, the iron properly sharpened, and the chip breaker honed for close fit to the iron. I used the plane on last weekend to square up some salvaged lumber for a mailbox post, and it works great!
That’s out-frickin-standing. Glad to hear you were able to save it!
@@justplanefun Shoot, that was the EASY one! I bought a #4 1/2 smooth, on eBay and did not notice that it had small cracks at each corner of the mouth, I think it was from mis-adjustment of the frog at one point, or the lever cap screw was over-tightened putting too much pressure on the thin part of the casting. :-( I was just in too much of a hurry, and it was my fault.
I ended up drilling 1/16” diameter stop-holes at the ends of the 1/4” long cracks, used the narrow cut-off wheel on the DREMEL to groove out the cracks, cleaned and preheated the body in the toaster oven at 450’F for an hour, fluxed and silver-brazed the cracks, popped the body back into the toaster oven and cooled it off over a couple of hours, filed and sanded everything nice and smooth and that seems to have done the trick. There are just two thin gold-colored veins of brazing filler visible.
If I had to do it over again, I would have tried to find a local welding shop and have it TIG-welded, which done right, leaves an invisible repair. That seems to be the way to go, if you have the tools and the skills.
Michael, after watching several of your videos, the one thing I've learned is that I know nothing about planes. I thought I was pretty good but I was wrong. Thanks for getting me educated.
Thanks for watching!
Don't Stop..... this is great information... ok...OORAH!!
Semper Fi Gunny!
Wow, very informative. Thank you.
Thanks! Types 9-12 coming soon!
These are super helpful. I'd love it if you continued this with the defiance and habdyman series planes. This way, others like me don't Google what we have and think its some special type 3 Stanley, lol. In my defense, my wife bought it for me...
I have another video entitled Beginners Guide to Hand Planes. You may find some helpful info there.
@justplanefun Thanks, man! I binged a bunch of your vids but apparently missed that one. Will check it out
Awesome video again. It's a ¼ to 11 and I didn't fall asleep, so...good work.haha
Wow loving your videos and it seems my Stanley no 4 is a type 6 Alpha frog has that little pimple but guess yours damaged as mine is same as type 6 at top.
Would u have a genuine type 6 6a blade for a no 4 ? Thx
I’ll be in touch via Facebook soon. Thanks for tuning in!
@@justplanefun ok great i posted on the group as just joined that as well thx
Very informative
Thanks for the info. Would like to connect to find a replacement frog for a type 8 size 8 Stanley
I’ll put you on the list but my goodness is it a long waiting list for a compatible No8 frog 🐸
I have, what I believe to be, a type 6 No. 6 Stanley, for which I am searching for a front knob. If need be, I can message you on Facebook. Any help would be appreciated.
FB messenger is the most efficient way to get me.
I did a lot of research before I started to use (buy) hand planes. I wished I had come across your videos. Very informative. What would you consider the best “type” for real use?
I don’t think there is really a “best” type but type 10 thru type 15 seem to be the most popular among hybrid woodworkers