My family has a front end auto shop, when I did wheel alignments back in the day I used to adjust shims measure, and do this for each parameter till I got it right. My father who had been doing it forever would look at the first measurements, know exactly what shims needed to go where and get the caster camber near perfect on the first shot. When you do the same thing everyday all day you get to know how to get things perfect quickly.
Nice. A quick question: can you align the wheels perfectly with basic equipment or do you need those fancy laser things. I saw people that put the car with the front wheels on fixed wheels metal cylinders and depending how the car runs on them left or right, they know how to car sits on the road and adjust the wheels accordingly.
@@SacreDro back in the day before lasers and strings we had magnetic level gauges that stuck on the hub. They still may sell them. This will allow you to set caster and camber . Depending on the car and what adjustments are available. You can set toe to 0 with a tape measure just pick the same spot on the tread and measure the front and back, you have to you also need a steering wheel lock to hold the wheel strait. Now most cars toe isn't zero . You also need plates the wheel can swivel on or adjustments may be a pain.
Danny, I remember watching a Swiss Ferrari mechanic adjust carb screws in a 1968 Ferrari. It was very interesting watching him smell the exhaust and tweaking micro small screws in the carbs. You remind of this guy. Nothing beats life's experience. Great video. Mr. Pete-----------> aging hippie
Both surprising and refreshing to hear a person who is clearly passionate about his business and chosen profession, explain how he makes money on these speaker modification kits. Trust is often devalued or missed completely by people running businesses. Even though I live in Australia I would certainly consider buying one of the upgrade kits or other products from Danny and GR-Research. (It may sound like I just posted an Advertisement, but nothing can be further from the truth. I rarely do this, maybe its the first time)
Hi Danny. From my research, you are well regarded in the industry. Clayton from Spatial Audio Labs has complimented your work several times. I wish I could afford his $7,000 X5 speakers or your NX-Otica speakers. Instead, I upgraded my SVS Ultra Bookshelf speakers with your kit. Excellent results. But, I'm happy just to have the upgraded parts. Amazing to me that audiophiles spend so much on speaker cables only to discover that many speaker manufacturers use "cheap" crossover parts and aluminum cables.
or you could just get Active monitors if the neutral uncolored sound is what you are in for , and that is what Danny is trying to achieve, just get a studio monitor, trust me it will be a lot better then any passive speaker due to active crossover and solidly made cabinets due to mass production. No binding posts, short cables, shortest possible .And Decades of research put in a pair, sicne they dont make them for each season , there are Mk3 , Mk4 models out , lot has been done . You get it all , for 200$ sometimes, i got measuring gear to check it , do what Danny does , low and behold, FLAT AS A PANCAKE in full concrete room , amazing That is why Danny never tests Studio monitors, they will kill his job
@@dedskin1 Danny talks about digital crossovers and states that they are not as good. Only one he semi likes, but he can get better sound from passive crossovers. Neutral uncolored sound is what everyone should aim for. No reason for a speaker to give you peaks and valleys even if you think it makes it sound better. What section are you looking for color? If you have a speaker all over the place you end up with 2db - 5db of brightness where you might not want it. When a speaker is flat you have something that you can add equipment too that then gives it the warmth across the range exactly as you want. I have a set of Scan speak diy speakers that are flat from 30-20hrz. They have one of the best sound stages I've ever heard nothing about them is boring. I can use them for theater and 2 channel although recordings matter a lot. When you have something so reveling everything can sound different depending on recording and maybe that is what you don't like? When a speaker is sub par I guess more things sound okay, but only because everything sounds the same.
@@theoracleprodigy there is no statement , active crossovers are better higher resolution , the story is analogous to Analog and Digital Photography . True Analog Photos have certain charisma , and so does analog sound , no question . But no one runs CRT monitors , or Analog Photo gear today , its just for those who know why and prefer analog for some reason , there are such people , and such gear . But they dont claim for analog to be better , its just has more charisma . But question which is better , has been answered of course electronic and digital is better , more precise , but is harsher on the ear and eye then analog . Things are very simple .
@@dedskin1 one problem with active crossovers. They contain op-amps, resistors and capacitors to alter different frequency ranges of the signal. So you are saying you can buy one for $100 from parts express it will actively crossover my speakers and have better sound for that price? I don't buy it for a second. Here is why they are relying on resistors and capacitors (which passive do as well) for that price I'd be scared what that parts quality is. My passive crossover was around $750 which is extreme yes but a capacitor and resistor will run easily over $100. I see why he hates them. Also I don't see how you adjust for baffle, or really eq a speaker.
I just finished my LCR in Danny's upgrades, yesterday. I did the center xo one week. Then I built each of the mains. I installed one and ran out of time in the day. So I had my left front completely done, and my right front crossover was built, but I hadn't taken the speaker apart yet. I lined up the A-B comparisons and did some dedicated test tracks...incredible. I mean, unreal. Not that you need an A-B comparison. You will notice an audible night and day difference. Impossible to not hear it. It's not like a subtle cable change. This took my speaker from an ok speaker...good at certain things, but had its problems..and now my front Soundstage absolutely rocks. It's so much more mean. I mean, it reaches so much deeper. The tweeters aren't screaming anymore, they have the right amount of weight behind them. I'm not sure I'm explaining this correctly, but these upgrades are worth the time, and certainly worth the money. These crossover upgrades are legit. The only problem I have is....I have 8 surrounds and heights that have crossovers that dip 8-10db like seemingly every other klipsch speaker in existence. I can't do them all! Or maybe I can, lol
Danny, you're my hero. Doing x-over design, by experience as to what parts to try, is very impressive. I've always used programs with driver parameters loaded and then measure to then adjust. But I do not design as many as you have. For you nay-sayers, I've only heard excellent sound from what Danny has produced.
Danny, I was really hoping you'd do a video like this to counter your detractors. Reading through past negative posts, I have to admit, I've been sucked into some unproductive replies. With each new video, I appreciate your experience and willingness to share it. I especially respect the way you handle unjustified snark with a calm demeaner. Keep 'em coming Sir.
I feel EXACTLY as you do, and even though I've been sucked in a bit by the 'haters' (esp. the episode of the air coil orientation), I've had faith in Danny. He's straight forward and you can see it in his eyes. But yeah, this time he took his time to really makes a difference.
You are great at explaining the technique to fix the response of speakers. I'm sure others, like myself, would like to be a fly on the wall while you work just to see how its done.
This is one of the best videos you have done explaining what is needed and everything that's involved in fixing cross overs. Your knowledge in these matters is very good. You should consider classes that people pay to learn crossover design. Great video Danny!
I am so impressed with your speaker design and upgrade abilities. So happy I decided to build the X-Statik kit last year - one of the best audio purchases I have made!
Wishing I did the x statik and x voce LCR. I already had my speakers and had to make a decision. Anyway, gives me something to strive for in the future. I will definitely get those at some point. Instead, I invested about $6-700 in Danny's upgrade kits for my LCR, and really couldn't be happier. Pretty amazing to see the difference. I was able to A-B them with one done and the other not done yet. Incredible.
DR, a 7th degree blackbelt in audio! Much respect, Sensei! Those Pedistale completed speakers I purchased from GR Research always put a huge smile on my face!!! Wow!
this is one of the best videos on the subject. I lost count how many times i watched it and keep updating the notes in my notebook each time i watch it. UMIK-1 mic purchased, REW downloaded so let's rock n roll..
Danny, you should film the whole process, once only, and post it here. Especially with a real bad comercial design, from start to final measurements. Do it with a rare model of course :) ...
You've developed great knowledge through experience in designing crossovers, but beginners like me, need at least some ball park calculations to get a sensible idea of what to start with. I appreciate that your motivation is your passion for the subject rather than just making as many dollars as possible....Looking forward to the ATC video...
Great video! Suggestion: a workshop showing you going through the process on a speaker. That would be great - seeing these filters in practice and how you wrestle with a given speaker with drivers, but without a crossover.
Your measurements are for sure solid science... The proposed changes in sound amongst same value crossover components still resides firmly in the pseudo.
That Seas Excel really struck home, I've just redone the crossover for the Xtz 99.26. The original electrolytic in the notch filter had changed value due to age and that made the breakup really sibiliant.
Great vidi, I gained a much bigger comprehension of the overall xover picture. Your work methodology does not strike me as much different than my work as a Chef. Cheers.
Alot of good feedback about upgrades here. As an electrical engineer (not working with "sound") I know how important it is to give any electrical component a proper working condition. Do not run anything outside the spec. It is essential, and that is what Danny tells us. And who cares if I break my warranty on my loudspeaker by upgrading it. I am now in the position to measure and repair it anyway when upgrading. This is supposed to be a fun hobby.
I've built several pairs of speakers over the years, and the crossover is always the most demanding part. Off the shelf crossovers are OK, but they're built for general purpose. That's normally what I've used over the years, because I don't have your knowledge of crossover design. I've always ended up adding a resistor to the tweeter because it was too bright, or just generally messing around until they "sounded" half decent. The results were mediocre at best. Your knowledge is worth it's weight in gold, Danny! I've learned so much by watching your videos! Thanks! I picked up a set of DCM stand mount speakers a few months back. TPS-160S - CH. 6.5" woof and a 1" dome tweet. They sound quite good, but I'm wondering if you have ever worked on these guys before?
I understand how complex this type of tweaking is. I used to try myself here in the Uk when I finally realised how difficult it was to fix bad sounding speakers. You definitely need some good test equipment. I had a Graphic Eq which I used to train my ear to find specific frequency bands but will still leave you wanting. I tend to listen on studio monitors as I thought they would be more accurate. All studio monitors sound different too.
Huh… this is gonna be interesting. I’m about to start my first diy build on my own speakers I designed myself. Mine gonna be perfect tho, I’m almost sure of it (😂)
A perfect example of "I'll buy the most expensive tweeter and woofer with an off the shelf crossover and I'll have the best sounding speaker ever made". If only it were so easy.
Nice job Danny ! I need more No-Rez man i got lost into the music last night ! I was listening to the band the doors and the Triangles cabneit was disappearing on me with the Norez added .I know in my video review i gave the NoRez a 3-5 percent gain but I had to be conservative but i am impressed to say the least !
I don't use woofers for medrange. I decided that, after hearing medrange in a 6.5" woofer and then a 4" FR driver. The control in med was ten times better on the small driver. And I then spent a decade developing FR drivers to have more khz. And I also make coaxial speakers from large med drivers (guitar drivers) and central tweeters (built up coaxials).
I just used the same crossover with a Dayton audio 10" poly woofer and a 1.5 soft dome tweeter everything from Dayton. I got lucky I guess I just replaced the woofer and tweeters and added a crossover in a pair of second hand store speakers and I reinforced I guess I got lucky because I don't all of this stuff but it sounds really good
Thanks for that great insight into how you 'do it'. Seems 'voicing' is where I'm going to be in a black hole (but 25:54 is interesting). BTW: I'm about to start working on the network for a Winged Open Baffle with Dayton ATM-3, ND140 (5.25") and DA175 (7"); Alum cones with high-ish QTSs. Current network is a Dayton 500/4k crossover. Bass is filled out with 2 Dayton DC300s in an H-Frame.
I'm just curious, is open baffle bass as good as everyone says? I have two 12" subwoofers laying around and I'm not sure to put them in sealed boxes or open baffle.
@@FSXgta From my experience, yes, they are all that. Have you seen the reference speakers at PS Audio? They are the Infinity IRS. But from my car audio experience I do know that some Theil Small parameters suit open baffles better than others. Of course the trunk is technically still regarded as a 'box' for open baffle drivers. What a box does is allow for higher volume output, but open baffle speakers scale more and more the stronger amp, especially if there are a set of 2x12...the bass is beyond quick and accurate.
@@nickburak7518 damn I have tried searching for people doing open baffle in cars, seems to be very untested environment. I am planning to use them indoors though, I have a big DIY ported box in my car very satisfied, but I want to have some quality bass indoors. I also live in a wooden building apartment and have a Dali e12f sub which is quite good but it's too powerful. I've heard open baffle is also more neighbor friendly.
@@FSXgta Hmm. For car audio open baffle is very common, especially for installs where space is a premium, as in the back of a single cab pick up or in a mid-engine sports car. Cheap or pricey, the solutions are many. Boston Acoustics make some nice stuff for starters (home as well, obviously). Have you checked out the New Record Day channel? He's got Danny's open baffle subs. As for your wooden apartment, I wonder; do you have a gf? Most would tell you to turn it down. That's my case (I can't enjoy my music unless she's gone), and I live in a concrete apartment. People are very sensitive and can only handle zero volume.
Hi Danny, as usual a great video on teaching your followers what you do in the art of speaker design. One question that I've had in this and other video's that you've made referring to the frequency response curve. When you remark on a curve that has a large hump you often say that peak will make it hard to listen to. I'm not sure what that means. Would you say that musical notes around that specific frequency will be louder than all the rest of the music being played at all the other frequencies? Just trying to understand what the phenomenon is that you're referring to. Thank you!
Danny, Have you encountered speakers (or tweeters) where a bypass cap (ie: Miflex 0.1uf) doesn't improve the sound and may be even degrade the highs? Does it work better with certain speakers or tweeters (ie: silk vs metal...)?
Hey, I just built some SambaMT speakers. I haven't heard many high end speakers, but these seem great to me. Any upgrades available or tips from the more knowledgeable?
Would that home grown speaker setup been improved if he would have used a midrange speaker for a three way design? Would that have balanced the gap in between the woofer and tweeter? Thanks, Ted Allen
I have a commercial speaker that measured really close to that first speaker. It was yuk . I modified it to sound more ideal. Probably not perfect, but better than it was.
Nice work on that DIY-speaker. Maybe you could have optimized it for 30 degrees horizontal off axis listening. Then the energy response would have improved a bit.
I hope someone sends some latest hype speaker to Danny like the new Polk reserve r200. I'm curious how an acclaimed modern speaker from a renowned manufacturer will perform.
@Danny Richie. How do you 'clip' or switch between crossover components when designing a network crossover? Do you twist the components directly together (point-to-point), and then twist them apart when changing to another component? Is this what you do all the time when designing a crossover on the fly?
Hi Danny. A very informative vid. I wanted to know whether a ceramic fuse is better than a glass fuse? This topic was mentioned on another channel that the glass fuse causes loss of sound quality? Is this true or nonsense?
Interesting. I have a sneaky suspicion that pumping up the flat tire if more important than the fuse casing materials. But let me knee if you find it any more on that.
Danny, have you ever reviewed or upgraded a pair of Insignia NS-B2111 bookshelf speakers. Kef style coaxial design. They are budget speakers for sure but I’m wondering if they have potential. I have a set here and they sound ok at best. Parts inside are very cheap.
Its almost wierd that u dont have any upgrade kit for the klipsch 280f. Prob one of the most popular klipsch speaker ever, and they are still are mass pruduced
When you create an upgrade kit for a speaker, do you measure and upgrade just one speaker, or do you do more than one? I would think QC is such that there would be measurable differences between different copies of the same speaker. How audible those differences are, and how likely getting a speaker which is so different than others of the same model so as to make the upgrade to be problematic, I can't say. What are your thoughts on this?
Different subject. Your power cable comes in two version Plugs but I stay in a country where the Euro plug is used. If I use a plug adapter will that not defeat the purpose? Assuming you can ship to Indonesia!
Danny demonstrated that with years of experience, guesswork is largely eliminated. For those who are interested in learning the process, software can help take much of the guesswork out of it and help gain experience faster, and potentially save a lot of money on parts, especially if just for a hobbyist.
@@dannyrichie9743 i know only measurements,.. i admire Your work, i have insurance on my 6.5 speakers, the allstate will acept repair from a trusted , imay get a kit from you and replace the entire system
I know your a busy man, but curious if back in the day you ever tinkered with a realistic mach 2 speaker. I've had mine since new and have refoamed them recently and would like to upgrade the crossover. I know it's not high end but is special to me. Hope to get a response, but if not I understand. Enjoy your videos.
@@dannyrichie9743 Thank you for your time. I have read were the mach 2s will get you 90 or so percent the performance of comparable jbls of the day for a fraction of the cost. Wish I could afford to send one down for a crossover upgrade. Live the videos as I really like to learn and try to do things myself.
Actually that's a good question. Why do you think? One thing I like in 3-way designs that works really well for towers where the tweeter is just like this one in this video, a planar or electrostatic. They don't play down well, but if there's a 3 or 4 inch mid, which can play nicely to 3K (to meet the tweeter) and very well down to 500 to meet bigger woofers, then we can have a pair of 8's or 10's drive some solid bottom end. But normally: 1. it's more involved and expensive to make a quality 3-way crossover. But for a pair $2-3K or more towers (like above), the expense is fair. 2. The most important thing in a speaker design is the crossover. On that last point we find it's a challenge for some to admit it, because driver technology is also key. But I like Danny's example of the flat tire. Even a Toyota will drive nicer than a Ferrari if that Ferrari has a badly tuned engine or flat tires.
Hmm, or just get raw measurements and use the VituixCad to do all checks in software...finally assembly the crossover measure and listen. Good job with this broken DIY.
Don’t think so. Want to listen to the music as the recording are, or do you want it to resonance as a cello or a violin? Which gives most colour to the music?
Yeah, and Joe Blow the troll from Cokomo seems to think he knows better than Danny on crossovers. Good job on this, Danny. I get a kick out of this type of stuff.
Ha ha. There's so many Blows out there. This kinda video may not shut em all up, maybe some more, but I'm all in for 'ol Danny! Are you gonna be getting a kit from him?
I know they make every kind of speaker at every price range but even though every part in the speaker isn’t perfect don’t people think that maybe these companies are attending to make the speakers this way and sound that way
FYI, the RUclips channel "Today I Found Out" has a very interesting video regarding the Flat Earth Conspiracy and How it Started. He basically says that anyone with the slightest education since the 3rd century B.C. has known that the earth is roughly spherical.
My family has a front end auto shop, when I did wheel alignments back in the day I used to adjust shims measure, and do this for each parameter till I got it right. My father who had been doing it forever would look at the first measurements, know exactly what shims needed to go where and get the caster camber near perfect on the first shot. When you do the same thing everyday all day you get to know how to get things perfect quickly.
Nice.
A quick question: can you align the wheels perfectly with basic equipment or do you need those fancy laser things. I saw people that put the car with the front wheels on fixed wheels metal cylinders and depending how the car runs on them left or right, they know how to car sits on the road and adjust the wheels accordingly.
@@SacreDro back in the day before lasers and strings we had magnetic level gauges that stuck on the hub. They still may sell them. This will allow you to set caster and camber . Depending on the car and what adjustments are available.
You can set toe to 0 with a tape measure just pick the same spot on the tread and measure the front and back, you have to you also need a steering wheel lock to hold the wheel strait. Now most cars toe isn't zero . You also need plates the wheel can swivel on or adjustments may be a pain.
Danny, I remember watching a Swiss Ferrari mechanic adjust carb screws in a 1968 Ferrari. It was very interesting watching him smell the exhaust and tweaking micro small screws in the carbs. You remind of this guy. Nothing beats life's experience. Great video.
Mr. Pete----------->
aging hippie
Both surprising and refreshing to hear a person who is clearly passionate about his business and chosen profession, explain how he makes money on these speaker modification kits.
Trust is often devalued or missed completely by people running businesses.
Even though I live in Australia I would certainly consider buying one of the upgrade kits or other products from Danny and GR-Research.
(It may sound like I just posted an Advertisement, but nothing can be further from the truth. I rarely do this, maybe its the first time)
Hi Danny. From my research, you are well regarded in the industry. Clayton from Spatial Audio Labs has complimented your work several times. I wish I could afford his $7,000 X5 speakers or your NX-Otica speakers. Instead, I upgraded my SVS Ultra Bookshelf speakers with your kit. Excellent results. But, I'm happy just to have the upgraded parts. Amazing to me that audiophiles spend so much on speaker cables only to discover that many speaker manufacturers use "cheap" crossover parts and aluminum cables.
or you could just get Active monitors if the neutral uncolored sound is what you are in for , and that is what Danny is trying to achieve, just get a studio monitor, trust me it will be a lot better then any passive speaker due to active crossover and solidly made cabinets due to mass production. No binding posts, short cables, shortest possible .And Decades of research put in a pair, sicne they dont make them for each season , there are Mk3 , Mk4 models out , lot has been done .
You get it all , for 200$ sometimes, i got measuring gear to check it , do what Danny does ,
low and behold, FLAT AS A PANCAKE in full concrete room , amazing
That is why Danny never tests Studio monitors, they will kill his job
Cable gauge and quality works on high lengths.For few inches it does not matter as much
@@dedskin1 Danny talks about digital crossovers and states that they are not as good. Only one he semi likes, but he can get better sound from passive crossovers. Neutral uncolored sound is what everyone should aim for. No reason for a speaker to give you peaks and valleys even if you think it makes it sound better. What section are you looking for color? If you have a speaker all over the place you end up with 2db - 5db of brightness where you might not want it. When a speaker is flat you have something that you can add equipment too that then gives it the warmth across the range exactly as you want. I have a set of Scan speak diy speakers that are flat from 30-20hrz. They have one of the best sound stages I've ever heard nothing about them is boring. I can use them for theater and 2 channel although recordings matter a lot. When you have something so reveling everything can sound different depending on recording and maybe that is what you don't like? When a speaker is sub par I guess more things sound okay, but only because everything sounds the same.
@@theoracleprodigy there is no statement , active crossovers are better higher resolution , the story is analogous to Analog and Digital Photography .
True Analog Photos have certain charisma , and so does analog sound , no question .
But no one runs CRT monitors , or Analog Photo gear today , its just for those who know why and prefer analog for some reason , there are such people , and such gear .
But they dont claim for analog to be better , its just has more charisma .
But question which is better , has been answered of course electronic and digital is better , more precise , but is harsher on the ear and eye then analog .
Things are very simple .
@@dedskin1 one problem with active crossovers. They contain op-amps, resistors and capacitors to alter different frequency ranges of the signal. So you are saying you can buy one for $100 from parts express it will actively crossover my speakers and have better sound for that price? I don't buy it for a second. Here is why they are relying on resistors and capacitors (which passive do as well) for that price I'd be scared what that parts quality is. My passive crossover was around $750 which is extreme yes but a capacitor and resistor will run easily over $100. I see why he hates them. Also I don't see how you adjust for baffle, or really eq a speaker.
This is gold Danny. helps clear up some major misunderstandings in audio design.
I just finished my LCR in Danny's upgrades, yesterday. I did the center xo one week. Then I built each of the mains. I installed one and ran out of time in the day. So I had my left front completely done, and my right front crossover was built, but I hadn't taken the speaker apart yet.
I lined up the A-B comparisons and did some dedicated test tracks...incredible. I mean, unreal.
Not that you need an A-B comparison. You will notice an audible night and day difference. Impossible to not hear it. It's not like a subtle cable change. This took my speaker from an ok speaker...good at certain things, but had its problems..and now my front Soundstage absolutely rocks. It's so much more mean. I mean, it reaches so much deeper.
The tweeters aren't screaming anymore, they have the right amount of weight behind them. I'm not sure I'm explaining this correctly, but these upgrades are worth the time, and certainly worth the money.
These crossover upgrades are legit. The only problem I have is....I have 8 surrounds and heights that have crossovers that dip 8-10db like seemingly every other klipsch speaker in existence. I can't do them all! Or maybe I can, lol
Refreshing to listen to Danny.
Danny, you're my hero. Doing x-over design, by experience as to what parts to try, is very impressive. I've always used programs with driver parameters loaded and then measure to then adjust. But I do not design as many as you have. For you nay-sayers, I've only heard excellent sound from what Danny has produced.
thanks again Danny, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve watched this. The more I do in my own workshop on my own speakers, the more I understand
So true, no better education than experience. You are a master of your art
Danny,
I was really hoping you'd do a video like this to counter your detractors. Reading through past negative posts, I have to admit, I've been sucked into some unproductive replies. With each new video, I appreciate your experience and willingness to share it. I especially respect the way you handle unjustified snark with a calm demeaner. Keep 'em coming Sir.
I feel EXACTLY as you do, and even though I've been sucked in a bit by the 'haters' (esp. the episode of the air coil orientation), I've had faith in Danny. He's straight forward and you can see it in his eyes. But yeah, this time he took his time to really makes a difference.
His reputation and experience speaks for itself, as far as I’m concerned. I trust this man.
I cant wait to start building some of these speakers Danny has my attention.
You are great at explaining the technique to fix the response of speakers. I'm sure others, like myself, would like to be a fly on the wall while you work just to see how its done.
This is one of the best videos you have done explaining what is needed and everything that's involved in fixing cross overs. Your knowledge in these matters is very good. You should consider classes that people pay to learn crossover design. Great video Danny!
I am so impressed with your speaker design and upgrade abilities. So happy I decided to build the X-Statik kit last year - one of the best audio purchases I have made!
Wishing I did the x statik and x voce LCR. I already had my speakers and had to make a decision.
Anyway, gives me something to strive for in the future. I will definitely get those at some point. Instead, I invested about $6-700 in Danny's upgrade kits for my LCR, and really couldn't be happier. Pretty amazing to see the difference. I was able to A-B them with one done and the other not done yet. Incredible.
DR, a 7th degree blackbelt in audio! Much respect, Sensei! Those Pedistale completed speakers I purchased from GR Research always put a huge smile on my face!!! Wow!
this is one of the best videos on the subject. I lost count how many times i watched it and keep updating the notes in my notebook each time i watch it. UMIK-1 mic purchased, REW downloaded so let's rock n roll..
Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge on speaker design, testing, optimization Danny! Awesome content.
Danny, you should film the whole process, once only, and post it here. Especially with a real bad comercial design, from start to final measurements. Do it with a rare model of course :) ...
Awesome! Thanks for sharing some of your design process! It's very interesting.
Fantastic work again! I have had that same Wharfedale Diamond 9.1. It was a bit dark sounding, but speaker cabinets were pretty well made.
Another great video! I hope you continue doing this stuff for a long time because I really enjoy watching and learning about the whole process
You've developed great knowledge through experience in designing crossovers, but beginners like me, need at least some ball park calculations to get a sensible idea of what to start with. I appreciate that your motivation is your passion for the subject rather than just making as many dollars as possible....Looking forward to the ATC video...
Some manufacturer must hate you, but I love you!!!
I few of them probably do.
Great video!
Suggestion: a workshop showing you going through the process on a speaker. That would be great - seeing these filters in practice and how you wrestle with a given speaker with drivers, but without a crossover.
Thanks for the Video Danny, so much better than being embroiled in the mudslinging cable debate.
Great content in this one Danny. One of the best IMO. Really makes me want to try my hand at building a speaker. Thanks
Thank you for the detailed explanation. You fully answered my questions.
I cant get enough of these awesome vids.
You are the MAN Danny - Well done , i hope to have you check out one of my speakers soon !!!.
Your measurements are for sure solid science... The proposed changes in sound amongst same value crossover components still resides firmly in the pseudo.
Excellent video Thank you!!
Wayne
Thanks for your services.
I like all of your videos! Thanks for the invaluable information and insight!
That Seas Excel really struck home, I've just redone the crossover for the Xtz 99.26. The original electrolytic in the notch filter had changed value due to age and that made the breakup really sibiliant.
Thank you for another great and informative video and for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Great vidi, I gained a much bigger comprehension of the overall xover picture. Your work methodology does not strike me as much different than my work as a Chef. Cheers.
Fantastic episode Danny!
what a great informative video. Many DIY, off the shelf or high end folks know very little how this works.
Most interesting this video great job on that kit.
My Dali's cross over at 3500
Excellent video!!!
Alot of good feedback about upgrades here. As an electrical engineer (not working with "sound") I know how important it is to give any electrical component a proper working condition. Do not run anything outside the spec. It is essential, and that is what Danny tells us. And who cares if I break my warranty on my loudspeaker by upgrading it. I am now in the position to measure and repair it anyway when upgrading. This is supposed to be a fun hobby.
Thank you! Great info.
I've built several pairs of speakers over the years, and the crossover is always the most demanding part. Off the shelf crossovers are OK, but they're built for general purpose.
That's normally what I've used over the years, because I don't have your knowledge of crossover design. I've always ended up adding a resistor to the tweeter because it was too bright, or just generally messing around until they "sounded" half decent. The results were mediocre at best.
Your knowledge is worth it's weight in gold, Danny!
I've learned so much by watching your videos!
Thanks!
I picked up a set of DCM stand mount speakers a few months back. TPS-160S - CH. 6.5" woof and a 1" dome tweet.
They sound quite good, but I'm wondering if you have ever worked on these guys before?
I always gain something from your talks, thank you. Also I can't wait to see what you think of that Wharfedale :)
I understand how complex this type of tweaking is. I used to try myself here in the Uk when I finally realised how difficult it was to fix bad sounding speakers. You definitely need some good test equipment. I had a Graphic Eq which I used to train my ear to find specific frequency bands but will still leave you wanting. I tend to listen on studio monitors as I thought they would be more accurate. All studio monitors sound different too.
Huh… this is gonna be interesting. I’m about to start my first diy build on my own speakers I designed myself. Mine gonna be perfect tho, I’m almost sure of it (😂)
A perfect example of "I'll buy the most expensive tweeter and woofer with an off the shelf crossover and I'll have the best sounding speaker ever made". If only it were so easy.
thanks for making the video Danny
Very informative as useful!!
You got me back talking reality 👍
Nice job Danny ! I need more No-Rez man i got lost into the music last night !
I was listening to the band the doors and the Triangles cabneit was disappearing on me with the Norez added .I know in my video review i gave the NoRez a 3-5 percent gain but I had to be conservative but i am impressed to say the least !
I don't use woofers for medrange. I decided that, after hearing medrange in a 6.5" woofer and then a 4" FR driver. The control in med was ten times better on the small driver. And I then spent a decade developing FR drivers to have more khz. And I also make coaxial speakers from large med drivers (guitar drivers) and central tweeters (built up coaxials).
Will you create a video on crossover design and what effect different values of inductors, capacitors, resistors, and l-pads have on driver response?
Absolutely! This is the most important thing these guys need to pass to us we don't have a million inductors& Caps
The lpad for the most part is a given & I prefer them over a resistor if you have to turn them down more than a quarter turn you got something wrong
I just used the same crossover with a Dayton audio 10" poly woofer and a 1.5 soft dome tweeter everything from Dayton. I got lucky I guess I just replaced the woofer and tweeters and added a crossover in a pair of second hand store speakers and I reinforced I guess I got lucky because I don't all of this stuff but it sounds really good
Good stuff.
Great video Danny! Can you do a video talking about how to size a DIY cabinet and the important features like braces etc.?
Many thanks!
Simon, UK
Thanks for that great insight into how you 'do it'.
Seems 'voicing' is where I'm going to be in a black hole (but 25:54 is interesting).
BTW: I'm about to start working on the network for a Winged Open Baffle with Dayton ATM-3, ND140 (5.25") and DA175 (7"); Alum cones with high-ish QTSs. Current network is a Dayton 500/4k crossover. Bass is filled out with 2 Dayton DC300s in an H-Frame.
I'm just curious, is open baffle bass as good as everyone says? I have two 12" subwoofers laying around and I'm not sure to put them in sealed boxes or open baffle.
@@FSXgta From my experience, yes, they are all that. Have you seen the reference speakers at PS Audio? They are the Infinity IRS. But from my car audio experience I do know that some Theil Small parameters suit open baffles better than others. Of course the trunk is technically still regarded as a 'box' for open baffle drivers. What a box does is allow for higher volume output, but open baffle speakers scale more and more the stronger amp, especially if there are a set of 2x12...the bass is beyond quick and accurate.
@@nickburak7518 damn I have tried searching for people doing open baffle in cars, seems to be very untested environment. I am planning to use them indoors though, I have a big DIY ported box in my car very satisfied, but I want to have some quality bass indoors. I also live in a wooden building apartment and have a Dali e12f sub which is quite good but it's too powerful. I've heard open baffle is also more neighbor friendly.
@@FSXgta Hmm. For car audio open baffle is very common, especially for installs where space is a premium, as in the back of a single cab pick up or in a mid-engine sports car. Cheap or pricey, the solutions are many. Boston Acoustics make some nice stuff for starters (home as well, obviously).
Have you checked out the New Record Day channel? He's got Danny's open baffle subs.
As for your wooden apartment, I wonder; do you have a gf? Most would tell you to turn it down. That's my case (I can't enjoy my music unless she's gone), and I live in a concrete apartment. People are very sensitive and can only handle zero volume.
Enjoyed the video, it seemed like a tweeter change out needed to happen.
do you ever flip the phase on the tweeter , particularly on steep tweeter crossovers ie 24db
Hi Danny, as usual a great video on teaching your followers what you do in the art of speaker design. One question that I've had in this and other video's that you've made referring to the frequency response curve. When you remark on a curve that has a large hump you often say that peak will make it hard to listen to. I'm not sure what that means. Would you say that musical notes around that specific frequency will be louder than all the rest of the music being played at all the other frequencies? Just trying to understand what the phenomenon is that you're referring to. Thank you!
Danny,
Have you encountered speakers (or tweeters) where a bypass cap (ie: Miflex 0.1uf) doesn't improve the sound and may be even degrade the highs? Does it work better with certain speakers or tweeters (ie: silk vs metal...)?
Awesome video, thanks! Do I need Notch filters to tame peaks if I am using an active Eq? Better to remove passively or actively?
It is better to keep EQ's out of the signal path.
I’ve always wondered why people bothered with some of the “high end” drivers that have terrible data.
Hey, I just built some SambaMT speakers. I haven't heard many high end speakers, but these seem great to me.
Any upgrades available or tips from the more knowledgeable?
Would that home grown speaker setup been improved if he would have used a midrange speaker for a three way design? Would that have balanced the gap in between the woofer and tweeter? Thanks, Ted Allen
I have a commercial speaker that measured really close to that first speaker. It was yuk . I modified it to sound more ideal. Probably not perfect, but better than it was.
You are a gem to us all, Danny.
Thank you for sharing your hard-earned knowledge with us.
Nice work on that DIY-speaker. Maybe you could have optimized it for 30 degrees horizontal off axis listening. Then the energy response would have improved a bit.
ATC = great brand . Great Video!
I hope someone sends some latest hype speaker to Danny like the new Polk reserve r200. I'm curious how an acclaimed modern speaker from a renowned manufacturer will perform.
What is baffle step loss ? do you fix it with Notch filter ?
@Danny Richie. How do you 'clip' or switch between crossover components when designing a network crossover? Do you twist the components directly together (point-to-point), and then twist them apart when changing to another component? Is this what you do all the time when designing a crossover on the fly?
They are clipped together with Alligator clips.
Please do the small one..Wharfedale . Best regards .
Danny, Please may I ask what is your honest opinion about the KEF LS50 Meta? Thanks.
I'm digging your videos. Have you worked on Thiel speakers. I love the sound of some of their models. Too bad they are out of business
Mid range ribbon drivers?
Danny,
In what kind of projects do you bring the speaker to your listening room for evaluation and fine tuning?
Dag
All of the kits that we offer have been through a long process of listening and comparative listening.
Hi Danny. A very informative vid. I wanted to know whether a ceramic fuse is better than a glass fuse? This topic was mentioned on another channel that the glass fuse
causes loss of sound quality? Is this true or nonsense?
Interesting. I have a sneaky suspicion that pumping up the flat tire if more important than the fuse casing materials. But let me knee if you find it any more on that.
Mr. Richie,
I am wondering, if using variable resistors, capacitors and inductors in your testing would make your work a little bit easier.
Danny, have you ever reviewed or upgraded a pair of Insignia NS-B2111 bookshelf speakers. Kef style coaxial design. They are budget speakers for sure but I’m wondering if they have potential. I have a set here and they sound ok at best. Parts inside are very cheap.
Yes, and I designed an upgrade for them as well.
Its almost wierd that u dont have any upgrade kit for the klipsch 280f. Prob one of the most popular klipsch speaker ever, and they are still are mass pruduced
When you create an upgrade kit for a speaker, do you measure and upgrade just one speaker, or do you do more than one? I would think QC is such that there would be measurable differences between different copies of the same speaker. How audible those differences are, and how likely getting a speaker which is so different than others of the same model so as to make the upgrade to be problematic, I can't say. What are your thoughts on this?
Typically drivers that are within spec are close enough to make differences between them fairly minimal.
Sound stage performance coming from speakers is this only from amplifier or does some come from crossovers too?
everything in the signal path.
@@shifterboot1382 thanks
Do You bypass the crossover that came with the speaker when start the testing a speakers? ( from scratch)
I start with how it comes in. If needed, I remove it and design a whole new crossover.
@@dannyrichie9743 thank you
How do you keep speaker impedance in mind? I would love to get to that level someday.
L-pad, a very simple circuit is your friend here, there are calculators online.
@@nacarp2000 I am talking as a skill where you dont need a calculator.
Have you ever evaluated any of Linkwitz Lab DIY speakers? They're designed by the late Siegfried Linkwitz of Linkwitz/Riley crossover fame.
Yes, and I featured the Orion in one of my video's.
Different subject. Your power cable comes in two version Plugs but I stay in a country where the Euro plug is used. If I use a plug adapter will that not defeat the purpose? Assuming you can ship to Indonesia!
Danny demonstrated that with years of experience, guesswork is largely eliminated. For those who are interested in learning the process, software can help take much of the guesswork out of it and help gain experience faster, and potentially save a lot of money on parts, especially if just for a hobbyist.
He uses software of course there is not magicians on audio design, it never was..
@@JHari-qj4lv No software is ever used in my design work.
@@dannyrichie9743 i know only measurements,.. i admire Your work, i have insurance on my 6.5 speakers, the allstate will acept repair from a trusted , imay get a kit from you and replace the entire system
I know your a busy man, but curious if back in the day you ever tinkered with a realistic mach 2 speaker. I've had mine since new and have refoamed them recently and would like to upgrade the crossover. I know it's not high end but is special to me. Hope to get a response, but if not I understand. Enjoy your videos.
I have not.
@@dannyrichie9743 Thank you for your time. I have read were the mach 2s will get you 90 or so percent the performance of comparable jbls of the day for a fraction of the cost. Wish I could afford to send one down for a crossover upgrade. Live the videos as I really like to learn and try to do things myself.
Curious on your thoughts. Have you ever designed a 3-way bookshelf speaker? If not... Why?
Actually that's a good question. Why do you think? One thing I like in 3-way designs that works really well for towers where the tweeter is just like this one in this video, a planar or electrostatic. They don't play down well, but if there's a 3 or 4 inch mid, which can play nicely to 3K (to meet the tweeter) and very well down to 500 to meet bigger woofers, then we can have a pair of 8's or 10's drive some solid bottom end.
But normally:
1. it's more involved and expensive to make a quality 3-way crossover. But for a pair $2-3K or more towers (like above), the expense is fair.
2. The most important thing in a speaker design is the crossover.
On that last point we find it's a challenge for some to admit it, because driver technology is also key. But I like Danny's example of the flat tire. Even a Toyota will drive nicer than a Ferrari if that Ferrari has a badly tuned engine or flat tires.
Tons of them, and some of the kits we offer are three way designs.
Hmm, or just get raw measurements and use the VituixCad to do all checks in software...finally assembly the crossover measure and listen. Good job with this broken DIY.
Danny can you give us some Canadian parts sources you know?
I think I heard Sean (Zero Fidelity) actually say he sometimes prefers to hear the box. Maybe there is something to have some box resonance.
Don’t think so. Want to listen to the music as the recording are, or do you want it to resonance as a cello or a violin? Which gives most colour to the music?
Yeah, and Joe Blow the troll from Cokomo seems to think he knows better than Danny on crossovers.
Good job on this, Danny. I get a kick out of this type of stuff.
Ha ha. There's so many Blows out there. This kinda video may not shut em all up, maybe some more, but I'm all in for 'ol Danny! Are you gonna be getting a kit from him?
@@nickburak7518 Nope. I just like being educated 😉
@@billd9667 Me too... But I gotta get me a pair
4:35 what is one full octave away in Hz?
Full octave is a span doubling in frequency.
32-64Hz is an octave, 30-60Hz is also an actave, 1kHz - 2kHz is an octave as well, 1kHz - 2.4kHz is not.
I know they make every kind of speaker at every price range but even though every part in the speaker isn’t perfect don’t people think that maybe these companies are attending to make the speakers this way and sound that way
+1 .. Can't wait for the ATC 19 enhancement potential .... emm? .. An owner /user of ATC SCM100 actives & ATC SCM20 active Pro; disco'ed in 2015.
Sounds like the algorithm is between your ears…it would be challenging to replicate that data into a computer program!
My '90s model Sony 10-in speakers all they have is a capacitor going on the subwoofer that's it I need to buy a crossover
What kind of crossover would you suggest
FYI, the RUclips channel "Today I Found Out" has a very interesting video regarding the Flat Earth Conspiracy and How it Started. He basically says that anyone with the slightest education since the 3rd century B.C. has known that the earth is roughly spherical.