This is genius. I was messing with high voltage a few years ago and I built a couple multipliers. I ended up building a power supply with a 12kv neon sign transformer powered through a variac, so I could attenuate the output of the neon sign transformer. Then I ran the output of the nst through a multiplier, and put it all into a nice birch box. My biggest problem with building the multipliers was how to insulate such high voltage, and all I could come up with was submerging them in mineral oil, just like mains voltage transformers. Was a pain to keep it all sealed up, etc, and on full power I could see the oil being stirred around pretty quickly... it was kinda interesting. Anyway, thanks for the idea!
Thank you so much! Yeah, my first designs used transformer oil, but I had found it to be too messy for home usage. Then I tried epoxy, and everything looked very pretty, but when something breaks down, the whole module goes to trash. Finally I stopped at solid paraffin insulation, which can be melted away for repairs. The power industry uses oil and gases for a reason though - unlike solid insulation, those two are self-healing, so a breakdown/flashover only damages the equipment itself.
BadBeaver, you wrote "Was a pain to keep it all sealed up". I also had this problem when I build my own boxes from acrylic glass. I tried to seal them with epoxy, bathroom silicon etc. Nothing worked, in the best cases the oil was leaking out after three days or so due to the capillary effect. I found a solution in plastic kitchen containers made from PE (use the more professional/expensive ones, they have thicker walls). I only drilled holes for connections etc. into the removable lid, not the container itself. With this method the container had no holes to seal. As a bonus one can attach the multiplier/transformer etc. to the lid at get the whole assembly out just by removing the lid.
Lejf Diecks yep, thats pretty much exactly what i ended up doing. Although i did use some bolts on the side of the container for the inputs/outputs and tightened them up with a terminal block. Still hasn't leaked to this day!
Totally brilliant! I've just had to rebuild the volatage multiplier for my Philips 3232 scope. I was looking as some expensive insulator solutions until I found this. Thank you Vidduley, I also found your humour hilarious!
@@Vidduley Thanks!! I've seen a few candle making vids where they use a heat gun to add a few wax beads to level it off. My multiplier box is quite small compared to yours, I don't think it will be an issue. Keep up the good work! Best Ted
Haha, well, that's how it sounds in real life! Usually cameras quickly readjust gain on their mics and the sparks sound really muffled, but I've deliberately disabled this feature to provide the full experience :D
Awesome! Thanks for the tutorial! I'm working on a voltage multiplier myself. I'm still trying to make a 400kohm resistor in series for it so that i don't damage the diodes. Is there any way to make a high voltage resistor?
If you want to. I think oil is messy and gets everywhere, but it should do the job. Look for the oil without impurities, they might significantly lessen the breakdown field.
I'm curious if this would work to improve the energy output to utilize railgun type projectile for transportation and utilizing the previous pod to push the next one to the new destination (reducing the need to power the new pod)
If I put one of these inside that one office door that shocks everybody with static, will it turn the knob into some kind of russian roulette death knob?
Can i pot a crt flyback tranformer in wax? Im using a zvs driver circuit to drive it and i see a lot of corona discharges around the core and the secondary part of the transformer. Will potting it in wax help?
Thank you for watching! I find the oil much too messy; in a circuit that doesn't need frequent repairs I perfer the cleanliness and ease of use of solid insulation over the self-healing properties and ease of repair of liquid insulation
Did you ever try red (high temperature) silicone? I have used that when rebuilding a CRT oscilloscope cascade (can't remember the proper term in English, I believe it is something similar to kaskada in Russian), much lower voltage thou.
No, I have tried russian silicone-based compound Viksint PK-68, works way better, but costs way more. I use it in systems where mean voltage gradient in insulation gets higher than 30 kV/cm (between the capacitors legs mostly). Lower than that I use paraffin.
Hi, going through the comments I realized that you increased the per stage capacitance in order to maintain a high voltage in the later stages in under load conditions, not necessarily to increase the current flowing through the circuit. What effect would that have on the multiplier, other than the produced output voltage? I'm thinking in terms of charge time and consequently pulses per unit time. Thanks.
Well, more capacitors means charging to full voltage takes more cycles, but the output ripple and internal voltage drop under load decreases. Basically I doubled the capacitance because the corona itself at these voltages wastes about 50-100 watts, add to that various losses and leakage currents and the loading becomes considerable. And I'm not taking this out of nowhere, my first multiplier models had only 1 nF capacitors in stages, and maximum spark length I could get from them was 24 cm, while with doubled capacitances I can get 31 cm, which is much closer to theoretical maximum for this voltage.
Those were multipliers? Probably they utilise extremely cheap and low quality ceramic capacitors, which quickly heat up; or maybe they just break down from operation on higher voltage than the components are rated for. Anyhow, I personally use decent quality diodes and capacitors, because you could imagine how unwilling I am to melt all of this back down just to replace one failed component :D That happened once or twice though.
Excellent! So if a diode is rated at 20kV and you apply 15kV, it arcs across the diode. Just wondering why they don't insulated them more to prevent this. Then you would not need to use any wax?
Yes, if capacitors and diodes would not arc over by themselves, that would mean that you can get away with just air insulation. However, this would make all of the components much more bulky. Modern components satisfy the market's need for compact high voltage devices, they are designed to be used with extra insulation, be it transformer oil, epoxy resin or silicone compound. This ensures a compact final device. For example, if I were to make my 150 kV multiplier only air-insulated, it would need to be 30-40 cm tall, use large 30-40 cm diameter top electrode, and would sizzle corona in all directions. Solid insulation (wax) allows me to turn this monstrosity into a relatively small white box with dimensions of 25*12*6 cm.
Why is the ground wire on your multiplier shifted upwards? Doesnt the ground wire have to be next to the input wire? At least thats what i see in the schematics
Hi, my multiplier design has input and ground opposite of each other, and one section above the Gnd is located what I call the "control output", which is the pin you must've confused with the input. Its purpose is to make sure that not a single capacitor in the multiplier sees the voltage above 15 kV. I cover that princie in a video "how to protect your voltage multiplier from overvoltage".
Looks very professional! Very good work. And can you tell me if the power or wattage of the output constrained by the capacity of the capacitators (1 nF you said) you use, since the diodes will not be the bottleneck I think.
Thank you very much! Cascade schemes like that one are pretty hard to analyse, but a crude calculations shows that the diodes are the limiting factor. The calculation with the capacitor values (2 nF per stage actually) and ideal diodes gives plenty of power - 1300 W, but the real diodes can't handle the current that corresponds to that power.
@@Vidduley Thanks :) Now I understand cq see the way you build this. The 2 nF is created by two capacitors of 1 nF in series, which is 4 capacitors per stage. So for 10 stages 40 capacitors! And they aren't cheap; so that's about 25 dollars only for the capacitators I think. So if you think the diodes are the bottleneck in your multiplier I am puzzeled why you doubled the pricy capacitators then.
The thing is, I don't need maximum power, corona uses only 100-150 W, rather I need higher output voltage, and that is achieved by higher stage capacitance (the voltage drop under load decreases and the voltage gets closer to the theoretical EMF of 150 kV).
Paint the end of your connector with red nail polish. I need to insulate the balance wires on my Li-ion battery packs, I've already shorted them out once somehow and burned them in tow, even though they have insulating wire on them. I think parrafin wax though is too heavy and flamable.
Did anyone notice the wallpaper? There are Sputnik graphics in it. Nice video. Looks like you did some good research and took care to be as safe as possible, while still having a good experience. I found this from StyroPyro's channel.
Vidduley do you have experience what are the disadvantages/advantages of paraffin wax compared to transformer oil? I just bought 10 liters and now I am wondering if paraffin would work as good as the oil. Usually I "work" with voltages up to 70 - 80 kV.
In short, oil is too messy and gets on everything, but unlike paraffin, it is self-healing type of insulation, so the repair after a fault is much less tiresome.
I tried that at first, but I didn't like it because repairability was very low. I still have that epoxy-insulated multiplier on a shelf as a reminder, with painstakingly drilled holes to replace a single diode :D I agree that paraffin is not the best option though. It's soft and melts too easily, and the breakdown voltage could be higher. Later I've found silicone-based insulating compounds to be supreme in all but the price. These are very good at insulating and handling temperature, but at the same time can be removed quite easily if a repair is needed.
I have another question. Can you tell me how much voltage and current you are running with your power supply to drive the multiplier? I mean the DC power supply not the transformer with ac output.
Hi Vidduley, I'm a researcher in a Brazilian University. I've had problems with low voltage on plasma sources, they're basically buck-boost conversors, my question is if is possible to use this topology in any given frequency. My idea was getting a 200V 10kHz square wave and turn it into a 2kV 10kHz for example ( losses are not a problem over here, if i can get like 20% of yield it's aleardy great ). Great video btw, congrats for the work!
Thanks! You mean you want to use boost converter to step up 200 volts to 2 kV? I believe this voltage is a bit too low for generating any decent amount of atmospheric air plasma (even using industrial-utilised discharges like DBD), if that is what you're up to. And the switch that would handle 2 kV for boost topology is already hard to find, for example max. voltage of mosfets I heard of was 1.7 kV. So overall, high frequency high voltage transformers seem to be the only practical solution.
@@Vidduley Thanks for the answer. I'm Currently struggling with an oscillator topology, the idea was feed the oscillator with a square wave in his ressonant frquency. With the high quality factor of the circuit, the wave would be amplified up to the desired value. This approach have been failed, that's why i'll try the multiplier now. I've already achieved voltages up to 3kV without arching atm plasma, even with like 1~2mm between the eletrodes, but that's not enough. The plasma sources here can provide up to 500V 150kHz, so i think that a full wave 4 stage multiplier could generate some sparks! Thanks again, great channel!
High frequency transformer is a flyback transformer, secondary gives out 7500 V peak, amps are about 20-30 mA. Each capacitor should withstand double the peak input voltage, so 15 kV here.
Hi! Beautiful setup. What did you use to seal the lower bottom of the PVC box to the ceramic plate when you put the liquid paraffin inside? Hotglue? A resin? I didn't understand the word. Thanx.
Hi, no, I didn't do that. Good idea! Nevertheless in this particular case voltage stress is not so large, only about 10 kV/cm, so the insulation will do fine with a little bit of contamination.
I saw a lot of people covering their hv multipliers in wax, yea, this is definitely a good way, but I covered my hv multiplier in silicone under vacuum, silicone is also pretty soft and multiplier also could be easily repaired.
Hi, you ask for the voltage of the components? They should be rated for at least peak-to-peak voltage of a power supply. In my case V(p-p) is 15 kV, and I have 15 kV capacitors and 20 kV diodes.
I have made a small voltage multiplier (3kv caps and diodes and I think 7-8 stages) and tried to power it by mains voltage (230) just to see if it’s working. I’ve then taken a small plastic container and filled it with melted paraffin wax. Once solidified it was no longer working. I melted all the wax down and cleaned up the components. It was then ok again. What do you think could have caused it? Edit: it works!
I think thermal expansion of the wax ripped apart some bad connection, or the wax flowed into this bad connection and insulated it; I had similar problem once.
What voltage ratings do the capacitors and the diodes have to be? I’m working on a project that needs around 50kV and I’m not sure what rating the components need to be
In a voltage multiplier the capacitors and the diodes need to be rated for at least two times the maximum input voltage. The values themselves depend on how many stages you want, how high of a supply voltage you have, etc.
Well the caps are about 50 cents a piece on Aliexpress, and the diodes are about 2$ a piece from my local supplier; it's not very cheap, but not extremely expensive either. There are replicas of these diodes on Ali too, but I have found all of them to work unreliably.
@@Vidduley Hi, can I have a few more questions about the voltage multiplier? What if instead of 1nF I would use 2.2nF? Would that be a problem if I used 2CL25(2CL79) which is 5mA instead of 2CL2FM at 100 mA? Do you have 2 1nF caps in parallel to form one 0.5nF cap? Thanks and have a great day :)
Two 1 nF caps in parallel form one 2 nF cap, which is better for the output - the larger the capacitance, the smaller the output voltage drop under load. 2CL2FM are here to handle current spikes when the spark occurs, in my experience 2CL77 had shown worse reliability in this circuit. I would suggest you to start from something smaller, to learn the basics, for example 20-30 kV voltage multiplier. A setup similar to mine is potentially lethal and it seems to me that it would be careless to replicate it without needed knowledge. Good luck :)
Using 24V on the input of the ZVS? Well that depends on what flyback you are using, and what capacitors are in the primary circuit. Everything is deadly if you try hard enough :) Please don't though.
Is there anyway to make one with a Particular frequency that you have in mind, a frequency that doesn't change? And then is there one you could make so you can tune the frequency? I should have reversed the order of this question! And is there a way to drop ALL of the amperage?
Can You please contact me, I would like more details about how you assembled your multiplier, I’d like to use a similar design to assist in powering my project.
Unfortunately no. I got him to respond one time he asked for my email and then never sent the schematic. I’ve identified the components though and I’m gettin close to needing to build one for my project.
Maybe works fine, but what about repairability? Resin-encased stuff is almost impossible to repair, and I imagine that hot glue would be quite sticky in case of repair. On the other hand wax is easy to melt away in case you need to replace one faulty component.
Другого канала нет, мне кажется на английском более универсально, информация с большей вероятностью найдет того, кому она нужна. Думаете стоит делать русские субтитры?) У меня вроде бы и слова все простые, и произношу довольно четко.
This is genius. I was messing with high voltage a few years ago and I built a couple multipliers. I ended up building a power supply with a 12kv neon sign transformer powered through a variac, so I could attenuate the output of the neon sign transformer. Then I ran the output of the nst through a multiplier, and put it all into a nice birch box. My biggest problem with building the multipliers was how to insulate such high voltage, and all I could come up with was submerging them in mineral oil, just like mains voltage transformers. Was a pain to keep it all sealed up, etc, and on full power I could see the oil being stirred around pretty quickly... it was kinda interesting. Anyway, thanks for the idea!
Thank you so much! Yeah, my first designs used transformer oil, but I had found it to be too messy for home usage. Then I tried epoxy, and everything looked very pretty, but when something breaks down, the whole module goes to trash. Finally I stopped at solid paraffin insulation, which can be melted away for repairs. The power industry uses oil and gases for a reason though - unlike solid insulation, those two are self-healing, so a breakdown/flashover only damages the equipment itself.
BadBeaver, you wrote "Was a pain to keep it all sealed up". I also had this problem when I build my own boxes from acrylic glass. I tried to seal them with epoxy, bathroom silicon etc. Nothing worked, in the best cases the oil was leaking out after three days or so due to the capillary effect. I found a solution in plastic kitchen containers made from PE (use the more professional/expensive ones, they have thicker walls). I only drilled holes for connections etc. into the removable lid, not the container itself. With this method the container had no holes to seal. As a bonus one can attach the multiplier/transformer etc. to the lid at get the whole assembly out just by removing the lid.
Lejf Diecks yep, thats pretty much exactly what i ended up doing. Although i did use some bolts on the side of the container for the inputs/outputs and tightened them up with a terminal block. Still hasn't leaked to this day!
"Low Voltage of 40kV"
Haha, well all things are relative
@Dax Xander go away bot
@Antonio Jaxton take your bags and leave mr robot
Totally brilliant! I've just had to rebuild the volatage multiplier for my Philips 3232 scope. I was looking as some expensive insulator solutions until I found this. Thank you Vidduley, I also found your humour hilarious!
Thank you! Glad I could help!
@@Vidduley Just about to start on this tomorrow, does the paraffin wax shrink much when it sets?
Yeah, it does, not very much though.
@@Vidduley Thanks!! I've seen a few candle making vids where they use a heat gun to add a few wax beads to level it off. My multiplier box is quite small compared to yours, I don't think it will be an issue. Keep up the good work! Best Ted
6:40 when it went from 0-100 without me expecting it I swear I wet my pants a little
Haha, well, that's how it sounds in real life! Usually cameras quickly readjust gain on their mics and the sparks sound really muffled, but I've deliberately disabled this feature to provide the full experience :D
I cracked up at this part!
i had my headphones on.....
we meet again :)
fascinating and very useful. also you introduced me to negative multipliers, very good to know
Yup, for some reason positive multipliers are much more known in amateurs community, maybe because the schematic in wikipedia is for positive one :D
We’re not amateurs we’re just professionals in training
Awesome! Thanks for the tutorial! I'm working on a voltage multiplier myself. I'm still trying to make a 400kohm resistor in series for it so that i don't damage the diodes. Is there any way to make a high voltage resistor?
Nice Work , I did the same thing with my marx generators
TwirlyWhirly555 yeah so much better
Can i insulate this multiplier with mineral oil?
If you want to. I think oil is messy and gets everywhere, but it should do the job. Look for the oil without impurities, they might significantly lessen the breakdown field.
I'm curious if this would work to improve the energy output to utilize railgun type projectile for transportation and utilizing the previous pod to push the next one to the new destination (reducing the need to power the new pod)
If I put one of these inside that one office door that shocks everybody with static, will it turn the knob into some kind of russian roulette death knob?
Is it 1nf 15kv cap?
Yes
Can i pot a crt flyback tranformer in wax? Im using a zvs driver circuit to drive it and i see a lot of corona discharges around the core and the secondary part of the transformer. Will potting it in wax help?
Hello,
Thanks for the presentation.
Why don't you take oil instead of candle paraffin ?
Thank you for watching! I find the oil much too messy; in a circuit that doesn't need frequent repairs I perfer the cleanliness and ease of use of solid insulation over the self-healing properties and ease of repair of liquid insulation
Is it bad to use the minimum volume of container to reduce the paraffin wax volume? Would it increase the risk of breakdown much?
I haven't tried that, so you can try and tell us the results ;)
I love the laugh at 6:47 that only a mad scientist could appreciate.
All this high voltage ⚡️ what are you going to do with it 🤔
What if our input of voltage multipler is continuously fluxing 'varying' ...?what type of multipler is should use?
Did you ever try red (high temperature) silicone? I have used that when rebuilding a CRT oscilloscope cascade (can't remember the proper term in English, I believe it is something similar to kaskada in Russian), much lower voltage thou.
No, I have tried russian silicone-based compound Viksint PK-68, works way better, but costs way more. I use it in systems where mean voltage gradient in insulation gets higher than 30 kV/cm (between the capacitors legs mostly). Lower than that I use paraffin.
What's the dielectric constant of paraffin and would you mind discussing the technical details?
Dielectric constant of paraffin is about 2.5 as far as I know
I giggled when that last bolt really shot through. "Low voltage"... hahahahah that's awesome.
Can I replace the 1nf 30kv capacitor with 15kv 10nf capacitors?
Hi, going through the comments I realized that you increased the per stage capacitance in order to maintain a high voltage in the later stages in under load conditions, not necessarily to increase the current flowing through the circuit. What effect would that have on the multiplier, other than the produced output voltage? I'm thinking in terms of charge time and consequently pulses per unit time.
Thanks.
Well, more capacitors means charging to full voltage takes more cycles, but the output ripple and internal voltage drop under load decreases. Basically I doubled the capacitance because the corona itself at these voltages wastes about 50-100 watts, add to that various losses and leakage currents and the loading becomes considerable. And I'm not taking this out of nowhere, my first multiplier models had only 1 nF capacitors in stages, and maximum spark length I could get from them was 24 cm, while with doubled capacitances I can get 31 cm, which is much closer to theoretical maximum for this voltage.
@@Vidduley Okay, but is there a considerable difference in the charging time, or is it negligible?
Basically negligible, maybe a couple of milliseconds.
When the circuit heats up, due to it's working, doesn't the candle wax satart to melt?
No, it doesn't heat up that much.
@@Vidduley Nice, very good job!
Thank you!
can I ask you about the voltage and amper out the transformer ?
Before the multiplier
What types of diodes are you using?
which is the total voltage of your every capacitor bank ? is 20kv?
Hello, what diodes are you using? Can you link the datasheet?
www.deantechnology.com/products/2cl2fm
@@Vidduley thanks!
How long could this one be on for without overheating?
What do you mean? Without any load it could run indefinitely, I suppose.
@@Vidduley I ask because some cheap, ebay HV circuits i've tried can only be on for up to a minute.
Those were multipliers? Probably they utilise extremely cheap and low quality ceramic capacitors, which quickly heat up; or maybe they just break down from operation on higher voltage than the components are rated for. Anyhow, I personally use decent quality diodes and capacitors, because you could imagine how unwilling I am to melt all of this back down just to replace one failed component :D That happened once or twice though.
Thanks for the info, yes noone wants meltdowns! @@Vidduley
Excellent! So if a diode is rated at 20kV and you apply 15kV, it arcs across the diode. Just wondering why they don't insulated them more to prevent this. Then you would not need to use any wax?
Yes, if capacitors and diodes would not arc over by themselves, that would mean that you can get away with just air insulation. However, this would make all of the components much more bulky. Modern components satisfy the market's need for compact high voltage devices, they are designed to be used with extra insulation, be it transformer oil, epoxy resin or silicone compound. This ensures a compact final device. For example, if I were to make my 150 kV multiplier only air-insulated, it would need to be 30-40 cm tall, use large 30-40 cm diameter top electrode, and would sizzle corona in all directions. Solid insulation (wax) allows me to turn this monstrosity into a relatively small white box with dimensions of 25*12*6 cm.
Why is the ground wire on your multiplier shifted upwards? Doesnt the ground wire have to be next to the input wire? At least thats what i see in the schematics
Hi, my multiplier design has input and ground opposite of each other, and one section above the Gnd is located what I call the "control output", which is the pin you must've confused with the input. Its purpose is to make sure that not a single capacitor in the multiplier sees the voltage above 15 kV. I cover that princie in a video "how to protect your voltage multiplier from overvoltage".
@@Vidduley thank you for the response!
"Let's test it on relatively low voltage"
-Proceeds to test on 40kV.
Please sir can I use this to high my ac voltage
Looks very professional! Very good work. And can you tell me if the power or wattage of the output constrained by the capacity of the capacitators (1 nF you said) you use, since the diodes will not be the bottleneck I think.
Thank you very much! Cascade schemes like that one are pretty hard to analyse, but a crude calculations shows that the diodes are the limiting factor. The calculation with the capacitor values (2 nF per stage actually) and ideal diodes gives plenty of power - 1300 W, but the real diodes can't handle the current that corresponds to that power.
@@Vidduley Thanks :) Now I understand cq see the way you build this. The 2 nF is created by two capacitors of 1 nF in series, which is 4 capacitors per stage. So for 10 stages 40 capacitors! And they aren't cheap; so that's about 25 dollars only for the capacitators I think. So if you think the diodes are the bottleneck in your multiplier I am puzzeled why you doubled the pricy capacitators then.
The thing is, I don't need maximum power, corona uses only 100-150 W, rather I need higher output voltage, and that is achieved by higher stage capacitance (the voltage drop under load decreases and the voltage gets closer to the theoretical EMF of 150 kV).
@@Vidduley Thank you for your answer. And I need more time to understand this.
Paint the end of your connector with red nail polish.
I need to insulate the balance wires on my Li-ion battery packs, I've already shorted them out once somehow and burned them in tow, even though they have insulating wire on them. I think parrafin wax though is too heavy and flamable.
Did anyone notice the wallpaper? There are Sputnik graphics in it.
Nice video. Looks like you did some good research and took care to be as safe as possible, while still having a good experience.
I found this from StyroPyro's channel.
Thank you for your kind words!
Great Video! thanks for sharing this. What are you using to control the input AC voltage to create a variable C-W output?
Thank you! I'm using a plain old variac
Vidduley do you have experience what are the disadvantages/advantages of paraffin wax compared to transformer oil? I just bought 10 liters and now I am wondering if paraffin would work as good as the oil. Usually I "work" with voltages up to 70 - 80 kV.
Ah, ok I read some of your replies on the other comments
In short, oil is too messy and gets on everything, but unlike paraffin, it is self-healing type of insulation, so the repair after a fault is much less tiresome.
Что за диоды? Кондеры соеденены последовательно, для увеличения их напряжения?
Диоды 2CL2FM от Dean Technology. Конденсаторы в ступенях соединены параллельно, чтобы снизить падение напряжения под нагрузкой.
I need 5 inch arc pls suggest senior ji🙏
What about to use epoxy resin for insulation instead of paraffine ?
I tried that at first, but I didn't like it because repairability was very low. I still have that epoxy-insulated multiplier on a shelf as a reminder, with painstakingly drilled holes to replace a single diode :D
I agree that paraffin is not the best option though. It's soft and melts too easily, and the breakdown voltage could be higher. Later I've found silicone-based insulating compounds to be supreme in all but the price. These are very good at insulating and handling temperature, but at the same time can be removed quite easily if a repair is needed.
I have another question. Can you tell me how much voltage and current you are running with your power supply to drive the multiplier? I mean the DC power supply not the transformer with ac output.
Well I haven't measured the current directly, the voltage is up to 30 volts, and I'd say the current goes up to 6-7 amps.
@@Vidduley my power supply only goes up to 5 amps. Is that a problem?
Hi Vidduley, I'm a researcher in a Brazilian University. I've had problems with low voltage on plasma sources, they're basically buck-boost conversors, my question is if is possible to use this topology in any given frequency. My idea was getting a 200V 10kHz square wave and turn it into a 2kV 10kHz for example ( losses are not a problem over here, if i can get like 20% of yield it's aleardy great ). Great video btw, congrats for the work!
Thanks! You mean you want to use boost converter to step up 200 volts to 2 kV? I believe this voltage is a bit too low for generating any decent amount of atmospheric air plasma (even using industrial-utilised discharges like DBD), if that is what you're up to. And the switch that would handle 2 kV for boost topology is already hard to find, for example max. voltage of mosfets I heard of was 1.7 kV. So overall, high frequency high voltage transformers seem to be the only practical solution.
@@Vidduley Thanks for the answer. I'm Currently struggling with an oscillator topology, the idea was feed the oscillator with a square wave in his ressonant frquency. With the high quality factor of the circuit, the wave would be amplified up to the desired value. This approach have been failed, that's why i'll try the multiplier now. I've already achieved voltages up to 3kV without arching atm plasma, even with like 1~2mm between the eletrodes, but that's not enough.
The plasma sources here can provide up to 500V 150kHz, so i think that a full wave 4 stage multiplier could generate some sparks!
Thanks again, great channel!
can I ask you about the voltage and amper out the transformer ?
Before the multiplier
And how much kv in one capacitor from this multiplier
High frequency transformer is a flyback transformer, secondary gives out 7500 V peak, amps are about 20-30 mA. Each capacitor should withstand double the peak input voltage, so 15 kV here.
@@Vidduley Thank you very much
Can you please precise the type of diodes and transistors ?
There's no transistors in the voltage multiplier, the diodes are 2CL2FM and the capacitors are 1 nF 15 kV each
what is the purpose of 3 inputs ?
Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/gBNZAcD-CoA/видео.html
Is standard two part epoxy a good enough insulator for this?
Yes, it can withstand the voltage, but would be difficult to remove in case of failure
Hi! Beautiful setup. What did you use to seal the lower bottom of the PVC box to the ceramic plate when you put the liquid paraffin inside? Hotglue? A resin? I didn't understand the word. Thanx.
Thanks! I used a substance similar to Play-Doh, a type of modelling clay.
Did you wash the electronics to get rid of fingerprints and other conductive contamination?
Hi, no, I didn't do that. Good idea! Nevertheless in this particular case voltage stress is not so large, only about 10 kV/cm, so the insulation will do fine with a little bit of contamination.
hey, a question is it a good idea to insulate a high voltage homemade flyback transformer in paraffin or should i use resin?
I think it won't be a problem either way
I saw a lot of people covering their hv multipliers in wax, yea, this is definitely a good way, but I covered my hv multiplier in silicone under vacuum, silicone is also pretty soft and multiplier also could be easily repaired.
I agree! Silicone is perfect for this task, especially the one made for insulating PCBs. The only downside is its cost
@@Vidduley It was not a silicone for pcbs, I bought 1L for 6$, soooo.... Well, I mean, works just fine for me.
hello 20kV Diode - 20kV Capacitor ???
Hi, you ask for the voltage of the components? They should be rated for at least peak-to-peak voltage of a power supply. In my case V(p-p) is 15 kV, and I have 15 kV capacitors and 20 kV diodes.
@@Vidduley thank you good luck.
Does the temperature (70-90 °C) of melted Wax is safe for these diodes
Good point! Luckily they operate in -55C to 150C range
how many volts to work?
Why not using polyurethane foam?
Where?
Wonderful workmanship.
Thank you so much!
The new xbox looks great
I have made a small voltage multiplier (3kv caps and diodes and I think 7-8 stages) and tried to power it by mains voltage (230) just to see if it’s working. I’ve then taken a small plastic container and filled it with melted paraffin wax. Once solidified it was no longer working. I melted all the wax down and cleaned up the components. It was then ok again. What do you think could have caused it?
Edit: it works!
I think thermal expansion of the wax ripped apart some bad connection, or the wax flowed into this bad connection and insulated it; I had similar problem once.
Yeah, that makes sense. I am going to check all connections and then try to insulate it again. Huge thanks!
No problem!
What voltage ratings do the capacitors and the diodes have to be? I’m working on a project that needs around 50kV and I’m not sure what rating the components need to be
In a voltage multiplier the capacitors and the diodes need to be rated for at least two times the maximum input voltage. The values themselves depend on how many stages you want, how high of a supply voltage you have, etc.
Where do you buy your capacitors and diodes? Everywhere I look those parts are sort of prohibitively expensive.
Well the caps are about 50 cents a piece on Aliexpress, and the diodes are about 2$ a piece from my local supplier; it's not very cheap, but not extremely expensive either. There are replicas of these diodes on Ali too, but I have found all of them to work unreliably.
Chris Russell thank you for the answer. That makes the pricing much more reasonable.
I want 1000kv generater input to more output 5 arc 🙏
what parts did you use?
The caps are 1 nF 15 kV Y5P, the dioded are 2CL2FM (20 kV 100 mA 100 ns).
Hi, I have acess to caps rated at 1nF 10kV (not 15kV) can I use them?
Sure, but the output voltage obviously will be limited at 100 kV if you use similar construction to mine.
@@Vidduley Hi, can I have a few more questions about the voltage multiplier? What if instead of 1nF I would use 2.2nF? Would that be a problem if I used 2CL25(2CL79) which is 5mA instead of 2CL2FM at 100 mA? Do you have 2 1nF caps in parallel to form one 0.5nF cap? Thanks and have a great day :)
Two 1 nF caps in parallel form one 2 nF cap, which is better for the output - the larger the capacitance, the smaller the output voltage drop under load. 2CL2FM are here to handle current spikes when the spark occurs, in my experience 2CL77 had shown worse reliability in this circuit. I would suggest you to start from something smaller, to learn the basics, for example 20-30 kV voltage multiplier. A setup similar to mine is potentially lethal and it seems to me that it would be careless to replicate it without needed knowledge. Good luck :)
How dangerous can this circuit get using 24V RMS? Deadly?
Using 24V on the input of the ZVS? Well that depends on what flyback you are using, and what capacitors are in the primary circuit. Everything is deadly if you try hard enough :) Please don't though.
@@Vidduley Makes sense lol. Everyone says 9v batteries are safe until you find out about switching inductors on and off with capacitors.
Where can I find that PVC box ??
It's a piece of PVC air duct for air conditioners or ventilation systems or something like that.
@@Vidduley oh....thnks for the reply...
@@cisarvialpando7412 Search for "PVC Project box"
That is beautiful work :-)
Thank you very much!
What input voltage please? Creative job. Well done!
Thanks! For maximum output EMF of 150 kV the maximum input voltage must be 7.5 kV peak and 15 kV peak-to-peak (i.e. symmetrical waveform)
Sir plz make video on how to make voltage multipler
Can you use this to make the Water Bridge Experiment? And would it matter if you have Positive or Negative output?
Thank you so much for this and all of your videos. You're fuckin awesome dude.
Why thank you! :)
Is there anyway to make one with a Particular frequency that you have in mind, a frequency that doesn't change? And then is there one you could make so you can tune the frequency? I should have reversed the order of this question! And is there a way to drop ALL of the amperage?
Hi, frequency of what, and amperage of what?
Your heating element says "Leben" on it which in German means "Life" :)
6:43 : RIP earphone 😂
Scared the living shit out of me!!!
Can You please contact me, I would like more details about how you assembled your multiplier, I’d like to use a similar design to assist in powering my project.
Did you learn what you needed? I'm trying to figure out something also, and wondering if you could do a simple test for me
Unfortunately no. I got him to respond one time he asked for my email and then never sent the schematic. I’ve identified the components though and I’m gettin close to needing to build one for my project.
2:08 oh thanks i didn't see it first :)
This is my job! Okay, it’s only 20kV but it’s still a lot of fun.
Cool!
Can I use 1N4007 diodes in this circuit???
Absolutely not, they are both too slow and too low voltage. You need 20 kV diodes with 100 ns or less Trr.
Earth and a antenna array
How do İ make high voltage generator input 12VDC output 25KVDC by Cockcroft_Walton circulate? What kind and of capacıtors and diodes should I choose?
just use resin or hot glue, works fine.
Maybe works fine, but what about repairability? Resin-encased stuff is almost impossible to repair, and I imagine that hot glue would be quite sticky in case of repair. On the other hand wax is easy to melt away in case you need to replace one faulty component.
@@Vidduley ok
@@Vidduley wanna cookie
Nah, thanks
@@Vidduley they are chocolate chip
Cool video!
Thank you!
this is the egnition i need for a potato gun
I think you need something a bit smaller :D
Почему не на русском?или есть другой канал?
Другого канала нет, мне кажется на английском более универсально, информация с большей вероятностью найдет того, кому она нужна. Думаете стоит делать русские субтитры?) У меня вроде бы и слова все простые, и произношу довольно четко.
Vidduley плохо что я учил не английский а канал интересен
awesome!
Here from styropyro
Can you please give me more info?
What info?
Like type of diode.
6:47
Roman 😎🤙
Wow great !!!!!!
Thank you!
Nice corona (banned word ;) 6:34
Waaaaw super
Thank you!
Vidduley can I ask you about the voltage and amper out the transformer ?
Before the multiplier
And how much kv in one capacitor from this multiplier
high voltage electric candle 😂
TOP
:)
Вы русский ?
Да)
@@Vidduley я так и подумал )
20 you are
Omg thats awesome