Advice from a sewer: While I have not made a banner before, there is something you could do to cut down on bulk. This may seem obvious, but sometimes we miss obvious things. That would be to cut out the center of each piece of your pattern. What that would mean is, where the peaces lay on top of each other, you would cut out a shape for that corrisponding piece. This may seem like a lot of work, but it would save on bulk. You could leave room for edging you used, so it lays flat as well. For the sun that gave you trouble, fray check is a great tool to use. However, I don't see anything wrong with using the double sided adhesive either. As for the biased tape, they actually have a tool to help make it and it's pretty common to see in most fabric stores. They typically come in sets of different sizes, so you can make it ths size you need. This would also give you more customizable color options than the range of ready made tape gives you.
Another use of making a flag like this is that it shows on both sides. That’s part of why it’s important in flag design not to use words, lest your design not work when mirrored.
As for maling biais tape, I (storting hobby sewster) have these tools. Unless I need a very specific pattern or color I don't. Use them. You need to cut the fabric diagonally (takes a lot of fabric) and you have so many nice colors at the fabric store. Maybe I'm not as experienced (I learn step by step, pattern by pattern)
More advice from a sewer: to reduce the bulk two methods come to mind, most people are recommending cutting out only what's visible of each colour and sewing those pieces together, so that you're only ever a couple layers of fabric thick, but it is quite tricky. Your fabric could easily stretch as you sew it, resulting in a bulging final appearance, especially around some of the curves and corners. I've done it with patchwork shirts, and it was surprisingly hard. Your method is much easier to get a flat end product, but to reduce bulk while sewing, don't start with the background, do it in pieces so that you're only sewing through a couple layers at a time. For your banner, I could have started with the white circle on the dark blue center thing, then the sun (3 layers total), then put your dark blue line on the light blue, then on the yellow, then sew those two entire seperate pieces together, then the white. (I might have messed up the order cause I'm just looking at the thumbnail instead of rewatching the whole video, but you get the idea). The other thing is ask store employees if you can find one! XD They know a lot and if you're stuck trying to find a thing for a specific effect, like the piping, they can often point you in the right direction. Also the back of wrapping paper works great for patterns too, if you run out of newprint It looks awesome and you did a great job!
In the SCA, I have made large banners by making the base out of canvas, priming it with white house paint, and then painting a stenciled design with more paint, acrylic paint, and some sharpies to edit the finer lining details.
To cover my fully heavy armor I made giant ankle length tunic. The field is chevron throughout argent and azure. My sewing skills not being great I used white arcrilic paint on a blue tunic. For the seven spoke wheel (yes it's The Wheel of Time) I painted it using a stencil and paint marker.
I'm not a banner maker, but I do sew and this is pretty much how I would do it. Just a couple of things I would change: 1) Try jigsaw-ing the pieces instead of placing them all on top of each other. It's more complicated, but keeps it from getting too thick for your machine (and no needles breaking!). 2) Go for a 1/2 inch seam allowance. On curved edges, it makes life a LOT easier. You can also notch the seam allowance so you don't have to fight the puckers so much! 3) In the future, try dry brushing the weathering and start WAY lighter than you want it to end up. It'll take longer, but you can better control the amount of paint/color on your finished piece. Great work!
I agree with all of this. You also can never underestimate the power of triangular cuts around a circular formation, keeping the folds smooth and avoiding too much overlap. Good callout.
The ruler mention hits me funny because I actually use machinist rulers now, which have an exact 0 and squared edge due to the precision required in that profession. Really changes your life.
I have been the same ever since I took a blueprint drafting class in school. It's a constant fight in my brain between those rulers and my sewing ones cause I have to remember which one I am using at what time or I end up with like 3-4 different measurements and a whole lot of confusion.
Hell yeah! I wanna run a shop at cons to sell my book and cloaks relating to the main factions in said book, having a banner for each of the factions would make perfect decoration!
Another Awesome video. For patterning, ikea sells a 2'x98' roll of "art" paper for like 5 bucks this way you never have to tape sheet together. My son used it to make a wooden claymore 😁
I’m really liking your Reckoning builds. One thing I would suggest for your kit (especially since your characters are textile workers) is a quilted gambeson. They seem like the type of armor that suits the Rivlans most, but they also look frickin’ cool. Anyway, I think this banner looked awesome and I’m glad you warmed up to it.
I interned at a furniture upholstery place in highschool and my boss would make bias piping out of the material her customers brought in. It was so fascinating to watch because she was so good at using every bit of material since a lot of times the fabrics were dead stock
This is cool. I've always wanted to go to the Ren faire with a banner and some friends dressed as knights. It would be badass to march in like a nobleman with guards, banners, and a minstrel
I had two banners ages ago, one that was a replica of Zelda's dress the other had references to Sailor Moon, Pokemon and Cardcaptors. I might have to make me some new ones.
My mom is a quilter, not a pro by any means but she does have, like, 50 years of experience. I've learned practically everything that you've done in this video by osmosis over the years.
Great project and great advice about not getting into your own head too much. As the crafter we see every detail of what we do. The public sees the end product. Love your work. You are an inspiration.
A quick tip for patterning: Y\If you don't have paper large enough, you can always use wrapping paper or packing paper. Some wrapping paper can be expensive, but you could always get a small cheap roll of birthday paper from the dollar store. (depending on the size of your project and how long you want the pattern to last)
I always buy an extra roll or two of wrapping paper when they go on clearance at work. And sometimes if you are lucky to be there, JoAnn's will do a Give Away day or two every so often after the holidays so you can even pick up a roll for free, at least at my store we always have a ton of left over paper that we always end up giving away and donating.
Tip for reducing the bulk is once a letter has been sewn it's essentially just a pocket underneath, turn it over and cut a lil hole in the backing layer and then use that to cut out the fabric in the back leaving a bit of seam allowance around your stitches Won't be the prettiest around the back but will help against breaking needles and you can always add a backing layer after the fact to clean it up ^^
One thing I learned from painting - sometimes you'll make a mistake, and because you've just made it, it'll stick out in your mind. Sometimes, you won't be able to see anything else. Stepping away for a day or so and coming back, gives you a better idea of how it'll look to people who don't know the mistake is there. And don't go _telling_ people the mistake is there.
Nice job!! Love the use of piping around the design, really makes it pop. My son always wants to watch your videos with me, and as soon as he hears the music he comes running. Now I have to help him make a banner.... 😆
So since yalls LARP is coming up and last time Maddie didn’t have time to make her costume as fabulous as you did, I think she is due for some costume love. We should get videos of her updating her character. It’s only fair.
I'm a huge advocate for taking a step back from projects you aren't super jazzed about the progress of and coming back with fresher eyes! Sometimes, you reach a certain point in a project and you're just too tired, physically, mentally, or both, to think about it objectively anymore. You've been looking at it from all angles for hours on end and it just starts to look like failure. It's at that point that you start making drastic, sometimes questionable, choices in the hopes of "suddenly fixing it", when in actuality, the best thing to do at that point is to walk away. Go use the restroom, get a nice cool (or warm) drink, get some lunch, take a nap, whatever you need to do to take your mind off the project for a time. Regularly taking small breaks from a project can reduce project burnout as well as help prevent unnecessary/questionable design choices made in the heat of the moment. I'm glad you mentioned that at the end of the video! It's helpful for young or inexperienced artists/craftspeople to know that it's okay to not like the look of a project at first, that it happens to all of us at some point or another, and at a varying degree of frequency, too. Your videos have given me many cool and fun ideas for my own costume and decor needs, so thank you ❤
For the loops on the top, you really should have gone with either two longer ones or 4 of that size and avoid the center of it, a banner pole tends to be centered with the vertical pole. I've made banners before, and tend to have a back and front rather than flag types. and kind of did things in layers where there was an overlap between them, but cutouts. where there's only a bit of an overlap under the pieces where it's stitched on, then the entire thing is almost quilted onto the front of the banner and a strip lines around the edges of the front and back that is also where the loops for the poles go. I was part of the group that got roped into doing them during high school and Jr high as they had a tradition that each year, each class designed a banner for the year that would be used in things and then kept up on the wall of the auditorium.
This reminds me of the first time I used a smudging nub on a pencil drawing. It was one of my standard dragons, where I used to use simple hatching and crosshatching for shading. I was given the nub as a gift though, so I went ahead and used it. I had no idea what I was doing, but I knew from the moment I used it that it was getting used in all of my future pieces. It was so simple to use and it made the shadows so perfectly smooth. I still use other methods of shading, but the nub is a really good tool to have in my kit.
Would have so much simpler to build a few silk screen frames and just print it. That also gives you the advantage of repeatability. Banners would usually be stitched together with pieces butted up against each other to make a "flat" piece of cloth, so printing would be a quick and easy way to do it. If you wanted the layered look, you should air brush before assembly.
That turned out awesome. I think historically speaking, when they made the banners, they just used a single sheet of fabric and just painted on the standards. Mainly because fabric was so expensive to make in those days and paint can be made on site that it would be cheaper to just paint the standards on their banners. But in any case, your banner turned out awesome and I'm looking forward to the next video.
To reduce the thickness of the layers you could try using duck cloth for only the field part. For the device try thinner fabrics, the sometimes sell $1 a yard.
I’ve seen a number of comments on ways to reduce the bulk and weight of this banner. All really good advice. That said. I love the bulk. I think you and Maddie will be totally stoked when you see it hanging in front of the shop. With the sun hitting it and it swaying in the breeze. That bulk is really going to make it stand out and give it further depth and character. I suspect that you will get lots of questions, comments, and compliments on this banner. Also, durable cloth for a proper banner was could be rather expensive and the banners were often dyed, painted, or embroidered to reduce the cost of materials. The fact that you have multiple layers of cloth in multiple colors on one banner signals that you put a lot of money into this banner, anachronistically speaking. Grab your ketchup and crunch away my friends.
For making the template, if you've got a digital design, you can blow it up to the size you want it then open it in Adobe Acrobat, hit print and choose the Poster setting - it'll print out the design across multiple pieces of regular printer paper with guides on how to tape it together to get it to line up.
It's great advice to step away from a project when it's not turning out how you want. Most of the time, you end up being a lot less critical when you come back to it.
Advice from a professional seamstress (most of what I do is stuffed animals, but still) - How you did it is pretty much how I'd approach it, though I would have worked to trim out some of the extra bulk by making the applique pieces a little more trimmed - though the way you did it lets you get the layers lined perfectly. When using heat n bond, iron the fabric to it before you cut out your design - makes it way easier to get a good bond and to keep it from getting all over your table/iron. Another thing you can get instead of the piping, for another option - is heat n bond bias tape - it comes in a few widths for doing stained glass quilts, and lets you add lines where you don't have edges to tuck the piping under. But the piping looks lovely. To get the depth you were looking for - that 'carried across the wasteland' look, make a batch of weak black tea and give it a 20 min soak. Then rinse it out, dry, and iron. If you don't think it got into the crevices enough, make a stronger batch and do it again. Or coffee - but coffee will stain the white maybe more than you want. (You can use a toothbrush to work it into areas you want a little darker, like your stitching.) Rinse then iron, and you'll get a nice smelling banner than looks like it's seen some stuff. :) Duck cloth was exactly the right choice for this!
To help with the thickness, you could take out fabric in the middle of the layers with a 1”-1 1/8” allowance. Leave enough material for the swing of the layers together, but remove enough so you get to as close to 1 layer across the whole banner.
Tips for the future. Where your pieces overlap, cut the fabric underneath it away so you aren't sewing through quite so much bulk. Also you can trace your pattern on the paper side of the Heat N Bond/Wonder Under and then bond it to your fabric and then cut out the pattern it makes the edges come out better. And sewing the piping and bias tape on with a zipper or thin foot takes a lot of hassle out of sewing tiny seams.
People ask about sewing machines close to the one you bought and I direct them all the time to your video and then they tell me that that is where they found it and started looking into it lol I'm a part of a bag making community and we're always looking for machines that can handle all of our layers lol
I think this came out beautifully. I'm glad that you took the risk on the airbrush step, as that really brings it to the finish line. It was a little too clean/plain before that step. An alternative would have been to do more stitch lines in those accent areas with other color gradients and just layer them like an embroidery project. Overall, I think your decisions were sound, and all the layers, while thick, will make the banner able to hang down in some good wind. It won't be flopping around in a light breeze, if this flies up, that's a strong wind.
It's a good thing we're not neighbors because the local hardware store Jo-Ann fabrics would have a huge boom to their economic bottom line. Keep up the excellent work. Love how diverse you are
Rather than cutting out such big blocks of fabric and layering them I would cut out each piece to the exact shape and fit them together like jigsaw pieces. (Except maybe for the sun and its white background since there are so many finicky little shapes there.) That way the whole thing would only have two or three layers of fabric instead of half-a-dozen. The bias tape worked well, but another option would be to sew the applique pieces with a satin stitch in dark thread. It makes very nice outines, and it is pretty easy to do with a little practice. A benefit is that you wouldn't need to fold the fabric since the raw edges would be covered by the stitching, which would also help cut down on the bulk.
So epic! I wanna make it, but I already have a backlog of unfinished projects I've started because of you though. I should probably finish at least one before I start another.
Up close, you see all of the little mistakes. When you take a step back and just absorb the thing from an outside perspective though? You realize those little mistakes just make the art even more amazing.
Just a tip for not bulking up in the layers. Just cut out the piece of colored fabric that you see. Then you won't have so many layers on the top piece of the banner. With the use of the piping and the biastape you could have gotten the top back to perhaps one or two layers
Another way that could be useful for black lines is satin stitching the edges. But it's also takes a lot of thread. And also for keeping things in place you can use that iron bond that you used in the sun for an applique technique. So I would do the same thing lol. Great flag btw
If you need to knock out a set of banners in the future relatively cheaply and much more quickly, I'd recommend getting custom fabric printed and then sewing it into banners yourself. Spoonflower in the US and Contrado in the UK will do fabric that's about 3' by 4.5' for ~20 bucks, so depending on the size of your banners you can get quite a few and the designs can be very intricate.
To be honest I was surprised that you didn’t just bust out some fabric paints in order to keep the bulk down. I love this design too. And in the future May I suggest fray checking your fabric. It helps with some finer pieces and certain fabrics. It looks amazing.
@@SkillTree There’s a product called fray check and what it does is essentially glue or seal the ends of the fabric to prevent fraying like what the sun did. I love using it in finer details and I always keep a bottle at my work station at all times. It’s clear so it doesn’t dye or stain the fabric and you can get a decent sized bottle on amazon for around 5 bucks. And depending on the size and type of the fabric piece you can sometimes skip seams. It works well on transparent fabrics
midnight rose is right with their advice here, i agree. and may i also suggest when using the air brush (i know, its scary and a Real learning curve) use darker shades of the colors you are going over, instead of black. ex, dark blue over the blue, a dark yellow over the yellow, etc. That may keep it a bit lighter in the 'oh no is it to dark?' scale, and you can always darken it more if it is too light. Over all I love how this banner turned out and im glad You and Maddie are too! Keep up the great work!
if you're quilting for something heavy, the way you did it is fine. If you're trying for something flexible, better to keep your layers minimal -- i.e. cut out your base layer whole, then cut each next (color) layer so that overlying parts are hollow underneath (except for the white base).
As with the other sewists that responded, jigsaw all the pieces and avoid layering, but also, double sided fusible interfacing should also tame a goodly amount of fraying. You could also use felt, but you'd probably want to hit it with waterproofing because unless you are using natural fiber felt it would probably not wash well. Still, Huzzah! great idea!
Love the banner, it looks SO cool! I can't give any advice on the sewing end of things, however, I do use an airbrush frequently. My chief suggestion would be to create a standoff stencil. Cut a slot in thick cardboard in the shape of the lines that you want to follow and hot glue some spacers onto the bottom of the stencil. This will hold the stencil off of the surface a bit, allowing the spray from the airbrush to feather out. The further back you are from the surface of the material that you want to paint the more feathered the line will be. Of course there is a measure of diminishing returns as you don't want to be too far or the airbrush paint/ink will dry before reaching the cloth. Hope that helps in the future. Keep up the great work!!!
This is great advice. We used flush/stand off stencils in college for painting patterns on set pieces. Often these were wallpaper or stone/brick wall patterns. They were amazing. Grab your ketchup and crunch away my friends.
Hi!!! Okay some advice? Applique - for fine things like your sun the heat n bond is a very good way to go. In general you work backwards in layering so that you have less fabric for the needle to go through. Eg: you have 4 layers, you start by sewing the top two layers together, then sew those two to the 3rd and then those to the base layer. You can also sew the shape of the sun close to the edge and then trim the fabric to shape. Always make your own bias tape, easy to do and costs far less. Also snipping curves, snip a small V shape rather than just the one snip, it reduces bulk. Overall you've done a brilliant job for a nonsewer
I remember trying to make a banner a few years ago to look like it was from a Monty Python/medieval era. At the time I thought it was okay looking, but seeing what you made makes me reconsider my own work... Not in a bad way, but in a 'I could do this better now' kindof way
The airbrushing was a little heavy, but if you throw it in the washing machine on hot some of that will come off. Then it's like weathering where you spray it on and "wipe it off" to leave the appropriate level of shmutz in the recessed areas.
I highly reccomend using the bonding interface (like heat'n bond) on all the pieces to help keep the layers flat. Also helps prevent the applique pieces from shifting during sewing. Also hadnt seen the corded bias tape that is nifty. I have dabbled with stained glass applique which is incredibly similar to the look you are going for.
Gorgeous banner! If you're looking for more LARPs, Alliance LARP is having it's national event in Denver in October. Alliance Crossroads is doing a great job documenting all the different chapters around the states, a lot of them have really cool boss monsters!
Love your presentation and self-deprecation. I do very much appreciate your comments on taking some time away, and coming back and realizing that what you made (mistakes and all) is great, and not as bad as you thought originally. The small details I mess up on, at times, gets in my head - I appreciate you tackling that for us - and illustrating it wonderfully in this video. Love the final result. Also - although I like your choice of Bourbon's - you may want to break out and try some good (not too expensive) Scotch as well. For me, I don't like too much in the way of smokiness, so Balvenie is a great choice for me - and the Doublewood (14yr), or better yet, the Caribbean Cask (12yr) is a fantastic choice - both under $100 at your local Binny's.
For your next airbrushing, go for lighter colors when doing this type of darkening, and favor layer building rather than instant contrast ;) It takes a little more time, but it will be much easier on your nerves and gives your far more control As always, you nailed another project ! I love what you do !!
Paint on fabric is also an option, apparently oil paints were first used to paint religious banners (though I would use acrylics these days)- lay down a layer of acrylic gesso first
so most banners I've seen at SCA events have been painted with fabric paint which was a thing done in period, that said great job and it's amazing to me that your sewing machine handled that many layers
If you make another one you might do good looking into applique. If I remember correctly it should help with the many layers of fabric being less. But that is only for future projects. This was pretty awesome to watch.
I really like this project, and honestly, I would've done almost everything the same way (until I saw some other comments with advice, lol). The only thing I would've done differently would be the attachment for the flag pole. I personally would have left a few extra inches of fabric on the top of the piece, then cut out a square-ish section from the middle of that extra line. If you then fold the extra fabric back down and sew it along the bottom, then you can slide a stick through in a very similar manner, which could either be hung up from the outside edges with rope, or you could tie a pole to the exposed portion directly in the middle and even stake it into the ground if you so choose. All in all, not a big difference and may not work the way you intend to use it. I just personally like the look of a banner a little bit better if you can't obviously see how its supported from the front. Regardless, awesome job on this project, I love this channel.
mb, larp hidden blade(sort of game style), or like mb at the back of your belt or something, or hidden in some ordinary place like a book, or just a simple hidden pocket for your sweet coins
Amazing! It's awesome. So, maybe if you do 4 loops at the top, the banner could either go on a horizontal pole or a cross (the thought being a crossbeam could be attached to an already existing tent pole)... Of course, you may need another sideways loop toward the bottom to keep it hugging the pole on those windy days. But it looks terrific just the way it is. But, honestly - it may not have enough pockets... you could easily add like 40 or 50 pockets to it... I mean, at LEAST 37...
Sewing Advice: I have noticed you only fold your edges over once and stitch. This could run you into trouble in the future, if you ever need to wash it, the edges may still fray. You can use a product like Fray Check which is a glue to keep this from happening, or if you want a really clean edge, just fold your edges over twice, tucking those raw bits into it. I used to larp, and being able to toss everything in the wash once home, even banners, was invaluable. Maybe it was just me, but I always ended up in the dirt dead, or rolling around at some point. Another way to bind the edge of the banner would be to use double fold bias tape to sandwich the edges. This is also a good option if you forget your banners seam allowance to fold over, which I have done before. I prefer making my own, in cool patterned fabric. As for your center yellow design, you want to look up appliqué techniques. Your machine may have multiple stitches, and you want to look for a satin stitch. You can fake it with a wide tight zig zag. I found this tutorial that explains the process here: ruclips.net/video/scUGh6Gjlvw/видео.html This will allow you to cut the design directly out without any extra allowance, and still bind those edges in. You might need to use some fabric stabilizer to make the fabric robust enough to take that much stitching, but you are using duck cloth, and that's pretty thick so might be okay. I think your banner turned out great!
Looks great! I've got a banner a friend made a few years back that's a simple sheet of duckcloth with thr bottom corners chopped off and a stencil sprayed mythosaur skull on it (it's a Mandalorian banner). For the details, she went through with a knife and scored and cut it up so it looks like it's been through a battle, then went through with an airbrush and "scorched" it. Which is probably safer than what I did when I made a cape a few years back: I straight up just took a blowtorch to it for my blaster-fire burn holes and scorch marks.
Other folks have already mentioned how you could have saved bulk on the banner by using the "stained glass" technique with your colour panels, so I won't repeat that. Using paint to fill in the lines to make the shapes pop more was a cool idea. I personally would have stayed away from black, though--it makes things look muddy. I personally would have gone with more muted colours like medium blue on the white, dark blue on the light blue, & dark gold on the yellow, for example. You'd still get the shading, but without the dangers of the overly "dirty" look. It still came out looking great, though. Always start with the lightest colour/or amount of paint possible!
In the past when I have gone overboard on weathering with air brush weathering I have lightly hand washed it to remove some of the paint and soften it slightly
When airbrushing something like this, definitely thin your paint (or dye) WAY more than you think you should. It will take longer but will give a much more even look. You can see the same effect with photoshop et. al.
If you want something cheaper and easier to do, use a sheet of acrylic and turn it into faux stained glass using black hot glue (for the dividing lead lines) and a mixture of acrylic paint and clear glue for the "glass."
@@SkillTree so I have no given direction the message is to be read, I don't know if its from nail bed to top or reverse, left hand pinky to right hand pinky or right to left, nor can I say for certain which are 1, 2, 3 or 4 character letters 😂😅 many layers of potential encryption. Dont tell me any hints, Im having too much fun trying to figure it out
I know you were using the leather sewing machine, but I would've done a serging stitch for those detail lines. Would make them thicker and more 3D for extra pop.
Dude you did so good. As the full clean banner was done I was sitting thinking, that could really use some airbrush to make it pop. And you did give yourself a good pat on the back it looks awesome!
Spectacular! I'm with you on the airbrushing saga, at first glance it's a bit on the heavy side, but I think you're both figuratively and literally "too close" to it. From a distance, by sunlight or torchlight, without those deep lines I think you're absolutely right, it would have looked too flat and "clean". With a bit of use and exposure to the elements, I suspect that will all waether and blend marvellously.
Advice from a sewer: While I have not made a banner before, there is something you could do to cut down on bulk. This may seem obvious, but sometimes we miss obvious things. That would be to cut out the center of each piece of your pattern. What that would mean is, where the peaces lay on top of each other, you would cut out a shape for that corrisponding piece. This may seem like a lot of work, but it would save on bulk. You could leave room for edging you used, so it lays flat as well. For the sun that gave you trouble, fray check is a great tool to use. However, I don't see anything wrong with using the double sided adhesive either. As for the biased tape, they actually have a tool to help make it and it's pretty common to see in most fabric stores. They typically come in sets of different sizes, so you can make it ths size you need. This would also give you more customizable color options than the range of ready made tape gives you.
Another use of making a flag like this is that it shows on both sides. That’s part of why it’s important in flag design not to use words, lest your design not work when mirrored.
As for maling biais tape, I (storting hobby sewster) have these tools. Unless I need a very specific pattern or color I don't. Use them. You need to cut the fabric diagonally (takes a lot of fabric) and you have so many nice colors at the fabric store.
Maybe I'm not as experienced (I learn step by step, pattern by pattern)
May I suggest sewist, instead of "sewer"?
More advice from a sewer: to reduce the bulk two methods come to mind, most people are recommending cutting out only what's visible of each colour and sewing those pieces together, so that you're only ever a couple layers of fabric thick, but it is quite tricky. Your fabric could easily stretch as you sew it, resulting in a bulging final appearance, especially around some of the curves and corners. I've done it with patchwork shirts, and it was surprisingly hard. Your method is much easier to get a flat end product, but to reduce bulk while sewing, don't start with the background, do it in pieces so that you're only sewing through a couple layers at a time. For your banner, I could have started with the white circle on the dark blue center thing, then the sun (3 layers total), then put your dark blue line on the light blue, then on the yellow, then sew those two entire seperate pieces together, then the white. (I might have messed up the order cause I'm just looking at the thumbnail instead of rewatching the whole video, but you get the idea).
The other thing is ask store employees if you can find one! XD They know a lot and if you're stuck trying to find a thing for a specific effect, like the piping, they can often point you in the right direction. Also the back of wrapping paper works great for patterns too, if you run out of newprint
It looks awesome and you did a great job!
In the SCA, I have made large banners by making the base out of canvas, priming it with white house paint, and then painting a stenciled design with more paint, acrylic paint, and some sharpies to edit the finer lining details.
To cover my fully heavy armor I made giant ankle length tunic. The field is chevron throughout argent and azure. My sewing skills not being great I used white arcrilic paint on a blue tunic. For the seven spoke wheel (yes it's The Wheel of Time) I painted it using a stencil and paint marker.
I'm not a banner maker, but I do sew and this is pretty much how I would do it. Just a couple of things I would change: 1) Try jigsaw-ing the pieces instead of placing them all on top of each other. It's more complicated, but keeps it from getting too thick for your machine (and no needles breaking!). 2) Go for a 1/2 inch seam allowance. On curved edges, it makes life a LOT easier. You can also notch the seam allowance so you don't have to fight the puckers so much! 3) In the future, try dry brushing the weathering and start WAY lighter than you want it to end up. It'll take longer, but you can better control the amount of paint/color on your finished piece.
Great work!
I agree with all of this. You also can never underestimate the power of triangular cuts around a circular formation, keeping the folds smooth and avoiding too much overlap. Good callout.
The ruler mention hits me funny because I actually use machinist rulers now, which have an exact 0 and squared edge due to the precision required in that profession. Really changes your life.
I have been the same ever since I took a blueprint drafting class in school. It's a constant fight in my brain between those rulers and my sewing ones cause I have to remember which one I am using at what time or I end up with like 3-4 different measurements and a whole lot of confusion.
If you are edging it in bias you dont need to do the 1" hem. Just wrap it in the bias and use that to hold it down.
But beautifully done.
Hell yeah! I wanna run a shop at cons to sell my book and cloaks relating to the main factions in said book, having a banner for each of the factions would make perfect decoration!
Niccee, whats the title of of your book?🧐😅
@@SniperPanda92 Blade, book 1 of the DragonBlade series.
@@JamesShedinn Is the book currently available? Do you have a website? Nothing listed in your bio.
Grab your ketchup and crunch away my friends.
Another Awesome video. For patterning, ikea sells a 2'x98' roll of "art" paper for like 5 bucks this way you never have to tape sheet together. My son used it to make a wooden claymore 😁
That is a GREAT tip! I will get some for sure
Duck cloth. Definitely writing that down. Thank you!
Sliding glass doors make for great giant light boxes. During the day at least
The piping really took this to the next level for me, hell yeah, amazing job! The airbrushing looks pretty damn good as well. Nice, nice nice
Thank you! I was so excited the piping worked.
I’m really liking your Reckoning builds. One thing I would suggest for your kit (especially since your characters are textile workers) is a quilted gambeson. They seem like the type of armor that suits the Rivlans most, but they also look frickin’ cool. Anyway, I think this banner looked awesome and I’m glad you warmed up to it.
I interned at a furniture upholstery place in highschool and my boss would make bias piping out of the material her customers brought in. It was so fascinating to watch because she was so good at using every bit of material since a lot of times the fabrics were dead stock
This is cool. I've always wanted to go to the Ren faire with a banner and some friends dressed as knights. It would be badass to march in like a nobleman with guards, banners, and a minstrel
Let’s go! Gotta make this for different fandoms I’m in.
If you do, please share how it goes!!
I had two banners ages ago, one that was a replica of Zelda's dress the other had references to Sailor Moon, Pokemon and Cardcaptors. I might have to make me some new ones.
I feel the same way. I've always wanted to make a banner similar to the ones found in monster hunter world, but for (like you said) different fandoms.
Love it great work! Cant wait to see the next banner... the EPIC SKILL TREE of Knowledge!
My mom is a quilter, not a pro by any means but she does have, like, 50 years of experience. I've learned practically everything that you've done in this video by osmosis over the years.
It is so cool you can learn that from someone in your life. Such a fun skill.
Great project and great advice about not getting into your own head too much. As the crafter we see every detail of what we do. The public sees the end product. Love your work. You are an inspiration.
A quick tip for patterning: Y\If you don't have paper large enough, you can always use wrapping paper or packing paper. Some wrapping paper can be expensive, but you could always get a small cheap roll of birthday paper from the dollar store. (depending on the size of your project and how long you want the pattern to last)
Buying up a stock of the cheap Christmas stuff during the January sales is also a good idea. If you have storage, that is.
I always buy an extra roll or two of wrapping paper when they go on clearance at work. And sometimes if you are lucky to be there, JoAnn's will do a Give Away day or two every so often after the holidays so you can even pick up a roll for free, at least at my store we always have a ton of left over paper that we always end up giving away and donating.
Tip for reducing the bulk is once a letter has been sewn it's essentially just a pocket underneath, turn it over and cut a lil hole in the backing layer and then use that to cut out the fabric in the back leaving a bit of seam allowance around your stitches
Won't be the prettiest around the back but will help against breaking needles and you can always add a backing layer after the fact to clean it up ^^
One thing I learned from painting - sometimes you'll make a mistake, and because you've just made it, it'll stick out in your mind. Sometimes, you won't be able to see anything else.
Stepping away for a day or so and coming back, gives you a better idea of how it'll look to people who don't know the mistake is there.
And don't go _telling_ people the mistake is there.
Nice job!! Love the use of piping around the design, really makes it pop. My son always wants to watch your videos with me, and as soon as he hears the music he comes running. Now I have to help him make a banner.... 😆
So since yalls LARP is coming up and last time Maddie didn’t have time to make her costume as fabulous as you did, I think she is due for some costume love. We should get videos of her updating her character. It’s only fair.
I'm a huge advocate for taking a step back from projects you aren't super jazzed about the progress of and coming back with fresher eyes! Sometimes, you reach a certain point in a project and you're just too tired, physically, mentally, or both, to think about it objectively anymore. You've been looking at it from all angles for hours on end and it just starts to look like failure. It's at that point that you start making drastic, sometimes questionable, choices in the hopes of "suddenly fixing it", when in actuality, the best thing to do at that point is to walk away. Go use the restroom, get a nice cool (or warm) drink, get some lunch, take a nap, whatever you need to do to take your mind off the project for a time. Regularly taking small breaks from a project can reduce project burnout as well as help prevent unnecessary/questionable design choices made in the heat of the moment. I'm glad you mentioned that at the end of the video! It's helpful for young or inexperienced artists/craftspeople to know that it's okay to not like the look of a project at first, that it happens to all of us at some point or another, and at a varying degree of frequency, too. Your videos have given me many cool and fun ideas for my own costume and decor needs, so thank you ❤
For the loops on the top, you really should have gone with either two longer ones or 4 of that size and avoid the center of it, a banner pole tends to be centered with the vertical pole.
I've made banners before, and tend to have a back and front rather than flag types. and kind of did things in layers where there was an overlap between them, but cutouts. where there's only a bit of an overlap under the pieces where it's stitched on, then the entire thing is almost quilted onto the front of the banner and a strip lines around the edges of the front and back that is also where the loops for the poles go.
I was part of the group that got roped into doing them during high school and Jr high as they had a tradition that each year, each class designed a banner for the year that would be used in things and then kept up on the wall of the auditorium.
This reminds me of the first time I used a smudging nub on a pencil drawing. It was one of my standard dragons, where I used to use simple hatching and crosshatching for shading. I was given the nub as a gift though, so I went ahead and used it. I had no idea what I was doing, but I knew from the moment I used it that it was getting used in all of my future pieces. It was so simple to use and it made the shadows so perfectly smooth. I still use other methods of shading, but the nub is a really good tool to have in my kit.
All hail skill tree 👑
Would have so much simpler to build a few silk screen frames and just print it. That also gives you the advantage of repeatability. Banners would usually be stitched together with pieces butted up against each other to make a "flat" piece of cloth, so printing would be a quick and easy way to do it. If you wanted the layered look, you should air brush before assembly.
That turned out awesome. I think historically speaking, when they made the banners, they just used a single sheet of fabric and just painted on the standards. Mainly because fabric was so expensive to make in those days and paint can be made on site that it would be cheaper to just paint the standards on their banners. But in any case, your banner turned out awesome and I'm looking forward to the next video.
Alternatively they may have embroidered the whole thing because winter is long and people needed things to do.
Probably tapestry weaved. Definitely a winter project.
To reduce the thickness of the layers you could try using duck cloth for only the field part. For the device try thinner fabrics, the sometimes sell $1 a yard.
I’ve seen a number of comments on ways to reduce the bulk and weight of this banner. All really good advice.
That said. I love the bulk. I think you and Maddie will be totally stoked when you see it hanging in front of the shop. With the sun hitting it and it swaying in the breeze. That bulk is really going to make it stand out and give it further depth and character. I suspect that you will get lots of questions, comments, and compliments on this banner.
Also, durable cloth for a proper banner was could be rather expensive and the banners were often dyed, painted, or embroidered to reduce the cost of materials. The fact that you have multiple layers of cloth in multiple colors on one banner signals that you put a lot of money into this banner, anachronistically speaking.
Grab your ketchup and crunch away my friends.
For making the template, if you've got a digital design, you can blow it up to the size you want it then open it in Adobe Acrobat, hit print and choose the Poster setting - it'll print out the design across multiple pieces of regular printer paper with guides on how to tape it together to get it to line up.
It's great advice to step away from a project when it's not turning out how you want. Most of the time, you end up being a lot less critical when you come back to it.
Advice from a professional seamstress (most of what I do is stuffed animals, but still) - How you did it is pretty much how I'd approach it, though I would have worked to trim out some of the extra bulk by making the applique pieces a little more trimmed - though the way you did it lets you get the layers lined perfectly. When using heat n bond, iron the fabric to it before you cut out your design - makes it way easier to get a good bond and to keep it from getting all over your table/iron. Another thing you can get instead of the piping, for another option - is heat n bond bias tape - it comes in a few widths for doing stained glass quilts, and lets you add lines where you don't have edges to tuck the piping under. But the piping looks lovely. To get the depth you were looking for - that 'carried across the wasteland' look, make a batch of weak black tea and give it a 20 min soak. Then rinse it out, dry, and iron. If you don't think it got into the crevices enough, make a stronger batch and do it again. Or coffee - but coffee will stain the white maybe more than you want. (You can use a toothbrush to work it into areas you want a little darker, like your stitching.) Rinse then iron, and you'll get a nice smelling banner than looks like it's seen some stuff. :) Duck cloth was exactly the right choice for this!
To help with the thickness, you could take out fabric in the middle of the layers with a 1”-1 1/8” allowance. Leave enough material for the swing of the layers together, but remove enough so you get to as close to 1 layer across the whole banner.
I have found silk is really the best for banners. It gives you the right amount of flutter in the wind.
Tips for the future. Where your pieces overlap, cut the fabric underneath it away so you aren't sewing through quite so much bulk. Also you can trace your pattern on the paper side of the Heat N Bond/Wonder Under and then bond it to your fabric and then cut out the pattern it makes the edges come out better. And sewing the piping and bias tape on with a zipper or thin foot takes a lot of hassle out of sewing tiny seams.
Giant fried egg at 10:15
People ask about sewing machines close to the one you bought and I direct them all the time to your video and then they tell me that that is where they found it and started looking into it lol I'm a part of a bag making community and we're always looking for machines that can handle all of our layers lol
I think this came out beautifully. I'm glad that you took the risk on the airbrush step, as that really brings it to the finish line. It was a little too clean/plain before that step.
An alternative would have been to do more stitch lines in those accent areas with other color gradients and just layer them like an embroidery project.
Overall, I think your decisions were sound, and all the layers, while thick, will make the banner able to hang down in some good wind. It won't be flopping around in a light breeze, if this flies up, that's a strong wind.
It's a good thing we're not neighbors because the local hardware store Jo-Ann fabrics would have a huge boom to their economic bottom line. Keep up the excellent work. Love how diverse you are
Rather than cutting out such big blocks of fabric and layering them I would cut out each piece to the exact shape and fit them together like jigsaw pieces. (Except maybe for the sun and its white background since there are so many finicky little shapes there.) That way the whole thing would only have two or three layers of fabric instead of half-a-dozen.
The bias tape worked well, but another option would be to sew the applique pieces with a satin stitch in dark thread. It makes very nice outines, and it is pretty easy to do with a little practice. A benefit is that you wouldn't need to fold the fabric since the raw edges would be covered by the stitching, which would also help cut down on the bulk.
For hanging this style of banner; you should use four loops so the vertical pole has a place to go behind the banner.
So epic! I wanna make it, but I already have a backlog of unfinished projects I've started because of you though. I should probably finish at least one before I start another.
Up close, you see all of the little mistakes. When you take a step back and just absorb the thing from an outside perspective though? You realize those little mistakes just make the art even more amazing.
Just a tip for not bulking up in the layers. Just cut out the piece of colored fabric that you see. Then you won't have so many layers on the top piece of the banner. With the use of the piping and the biastape you could have gotten the top back to perhaps one or two layers
Wolford's Reserves Double Oaked, excellent choice
Another way that could be useful for black lines is satin stitching the edges. But it's also takes a lot of thread. And also for keeping things in place you can use that iron bond that you used in the sun for an applique technique. So I would do the same thing lol. Great flag btw
If you need to knock out a set of banners in the future relatively cheaply and much more quickly, I'd recommend getting custom fabric printed and then sewing it into banners yourself. Spoonflower in the US and Contrado in the UK will do fabric that's about 3' by 4.5' for ~20 bucks, so depending on the size of your banners you can get quite a few and the designs can be very intricate.
To be honest I was surprised that you didn’t just bust out some fabric paints in order to keep the bulk down. I love this design too. And in the future May I suggest fray checking your fabric. It helps with some finer pieces and certain fabrics. It looks amazing.
Oooooh what does that mean? Lol
@@SkillTree There’s a product called fray check and what it does is essentially glue or seal the ends of the fabric to prevent fraying like what the sun did. I love using it in finer details and I always keep a bottle at my work station at all times. It’s clear so it doesn’t dye or stain the fabric and you can get a decent sized bottle on amazon for around 5 bucks. And depending on the size and type of the fabric piece you can sometimes skip seams. It works well on transparent fabrics
midnight rose is right with their advice here, i agree. and may i also suggest when using the air brush (i know, its scary and a Real learning curve) use darker shades of the colors you are going over, instead of black. ex, dark blue over the blue, a dark yellow over the yellow, etc. That may keep it a bit lighter in the 'oh no is it to dark?' scale, and you can always darken it more if it is too light. Over all I love how this banner turned out and im glad You and Maddie are too! Keep up the great work!
if you're quilting for something heavy, the way you did it is fine. If you're trying for something flexible, better to keep your layers minimal -- i.e. cut out your base layer whole, then cut each next (color) layer so that overlying parts are hollow underneath (except for the white base).
The Skill Tree Coat of Arms is beautiful 💖
Your tip toward the end of giving yourself some space and a break, exactly what I need. I get into my head too much when making. Absolutely brilliant!
I love the way the banner turned out, when you showed the picture of the finished banner I thought you was showing us a stained glass window at first.
An idea that would help would be to paint it and then seal it that way the whole thing is one sheet fabric paint is usually washable
This is technique is called applique. You can just do the visible portions, reducing bulk, but this is a valid method as well. Good job!
As with the other sewists that responded, jigsaw all the pieces and avoid layering, but also, double sided fusible interfacing should also tame a goodly amount of fraying. You could also use felt, but you'd probably want to hit it with waterproofing because unless you are using natural fiber felt it would probably not wash well. Still, Huzzah! great idea!
You can also try a walking foot to help with a thick fabric
Love the banner, it looks SO cool! I can't give any advice on the sewing end of things, however, I do use an airbrush frequently. My chief suggestion would be to create a standoff stencil. Cut a slot in thick cardboard in the shape of the lines that you want to follow and hot glue some spacers onto the bottom of the stencil. This will hold the stencil off of the surface a bit, allowing the spray from the airbrush to feather out. The further back you are from the surface of the material that you want to paint the more feathered the line will be. Of course there is a measure of diminishing returns as you don't want to be too far or the airbrush paint/ink will dry before reaching the cloth. Hope that helps in the future. Keep up the great work!!!
This is great advice. We used flush/stand off stencils in college for painting patterns on set pieces. Often these were wallpaper or stone/brick wall patterns. They were amazing.
Grab your ketchup and crunch away my friends.
for weathering, you can also use chalk pastels.
Hi!!! Okay some advice? Applique - for fine things like your sun the heat n bond is a very good way to go. In general you work backwards in layering so that you have less fabric for the needle to go through. Eg: you have 4 layers, you start by sewing the top two layers together, then sew those two to the 3rd and then those to the base layer. You can also sew the shape of the sun close to the edge and then trim the fabric to shape. Always make your own bias tape, easy to do and costs far less. Also snipping curves, snip a small V shape rather than just the one snip, it reduces bulk. Overall you've done a brilliant job for a nonsewer
I remember trying to make a banner a few years ago to look like it was from a Monty Python/medieval era. At the time I thought it was okay looking, but seeing what you made makes me reconsider my own work... Not in a bad way, but in a 'I could do this better now' kindof way
The airbrushing was a little heavy, but if you throw it in the washing machine on hot some of that will come off. Then it's like weathering where you spray it on and "wipe it off" to leave the appropriate level of shmutz in the recessed areas.
8:56 Woodford Reserve. Nice
I highly reccomend using the bonding interface (like heat'n bond) on all the pieces to help keep the layers flat. Also helps prevent the applique pieces from shifting during sewing. Also hadnt seen the corded bias tape that is nifty. I have dabbled with stained glass applique which is incredibly similar to the look you are going for.
Gorgeous banner! If you're looking for more LARPs, Alliance LARP is having it's national event in Denver in October. Alliance Crossroads is doing a great job documenting all the different chapters around the states, a lot of them have really cool boss monsters!
Love your presentation and self-deprecation. I do very much appreciate your comments on taking some time away, and coming back and realizing that what you made (mistakes and all) is great, and not as bad as you thought originally. The small details I mess up on, at times, gets in my head - I appreciate you tackling that for us - and illustrating it wonderfully in this video. Love the final result.
Also - although I like your choice of Bourbon's - you may want to break out and try some good (not too expensive) Scotch as well. For me, I don't like too much in the way of smokiness, so Balvenie is a great choice for me - and the Doublewood (14yr), or better yet, the Caribbean Cask (12yr) is a fantastic choice - both under $100 at your local Binny's.
This design would also look epic painted onto a silk banner.
I was originally thinking about using embroidery floss for the outlines, but the corded bias tape works really well too.
For your next airbrushing, go for lighter colors when doing this type of darkening, and favor layer building rather than instant contrast ;) It takes a little more time, but it will be much easier on your nerves and gives your far more control
As always, you nailed another project ! I love what you do !!
for transferring the pattern thorough the paper you could have used poncing with a pin wheel and poncing bag. You could even make a project of it.
And now, you need to make embroidered patches of the banner for her gear.
Paint on fabric is also an option, apparently oil paints were first used to paint religious banners (though I would use acrylics these days)- lay down a layer of acrylic gesso first
so most banners I've seen at SCA events have been painted with fabric paint which was a thing done in period, that said great job and it's amazing to me that your sewing machine handled that many layers
If you make another one you might do good looking into applique. If I remember correctly it should help with the many layers of fabric being less. But that is only for future projects. This was pretty awesome to watch.
lol... at 10:45 i was shouting 'use some bias tape!' at the screen. wife wondered why. now she's a fan too.
I really like this project, and honestly, I would've done almost everything the same way (until I saw some other comments with advice, lol). The only thing I would've done differently would be the attachment for the flag pole. I personally would have left a few extra inches of fabric on the top of the piece, then cut out a square-ish section from the middle of that extra line. If you then fold the extra fabric back down and sew it along the bottom, then you can slide a stick through in a very similar manner, which could either be hung up from the outside edges with rope, or you could tie a pole to the exposed portion directly in the middle and even stake it into the ground if you so choose. All in all, not a big difference and may not work the way you intend to use it. I just personally like the look of a banner a little bit better if you can't obviously see how its supported from the front. Regardless, awesome job on this project, I love this channel.
mb, larp hidden blade(sort of game style), or like mb at the back of your belt or something, or hidden in some ordinary place like a book, or just a simple hidden pocket for your sweet coins
At one point, you will build your own Larp Weapon, and I am stoked to the max!
Keep it up!
I'm tempted to recreate my Warhammer 'dark elves' banners i came up with
Amazing! It's awesome. So, maybe if you do 4 loops at the top, the banner could either go on a horizontal pole or a cross (the thought being a crossbeam could be attached to an already existing tent pole)... Of course, you may need another sideways loop toward the bottom to keep it hugging the pole on those windy days.
But it looks terrific just the way it is. But, honestly - it may not have enough pockets... you could easily add like 40 or 50 pockets to it... I mean, at LEAST 37...
Hell yeah. The airbrushing made that pop! I am going to do this!
Sewing Advice: I have noticed you only fold your edges over once and stitch. This could run you into trouble in the future, if you ever need to wash it, the edges may still fray. You can use a product like Fray Check which is a glue to keep this from happening, or if you want a really clean edge, just fold your edges over twice, tucking those raw bits into it. I used to larp, and being able to toss everything in the wash once home, even banners, was invaluable. Maybe it was just me, but I always ended up in the dirt dead, or rolling around at some point.
Another way to bind the edge of the banner would be to use double fold bias tape to sandwich the edges. This is also a good option if you forget your banners seam allowance to fold over, which I have done before. I prefer making my own, in cool patterned fabric.
As for your center yellow design, you want to look up appliqué techniques. Your machine may have multiple stitches, and you want to look for a satin stitch. You can fake it with a wide tight zig zag. I found this tutorial that explains the process here: ruclips.net/video/scUGh6Gjlvw/видео.html This will allow you to cut the design directly out without any extra allowance, and still bind those edges in. You might need to use some fabric stabilizer to make the fabric robust enough to take that much stitching, but you are using duck cloth, and that's pretty thick so might be okay.
I think your banner turned out great!
Looks great! I've got a banner a friend made a few years back that's a simple sheet of duckcloth with thr bottom corners chopped off and a stencil sprayed mythosaur skull on it (it's a Mandalorian banner). For the details, she went through with a knife and scored and cut it up so it looks like it's been through a battle, then went through with an airbrush and "scorched" it. Which is probably safer than what I did when I made a cape a few years back: I straight up just took a blowtorch to it for my blaster-fire burn holes and scorch marks.
Other folks have already mentioned how you could have saved bulk on the banner by using the "stained glass" technique with your colour panels, so I won't repeat that. Using paint to fill in the lines to make the shapes pop more was a cool idea. I personally would have stayed away from black, though--it makes things look muddy. I personally would have gone with more muted colours like medium blue on the white, dark blue on the light blue, & dark gold on the yellow, for example. You'd still get the shading, but without the dangers of the overly "dirty" look. It still came out looking great, though. Always start with the lightest colour/or amount of paint possible!
In the past when I have gone overboard on weathering with air brush weathering I have lightly hand washed it to remove some of the paint and soften it slightly
It's been a long time since I did stained glass, but with some minor modification, that would make a great stained glass window.
Awesome, great inspiration for my house banner. Thank you for your tutorials and candor.
When airbrushing something like this, definitely thin your paint (or dye) WAY more than you think you should. It will take longer but will give a much more even look. You can see the same effect with photoshop et. al.
If you want something cheaper and easier to do, use a sheet of acrylic and turn it into faux stained glass using black hot glue (for the dividing lead lines) and a mixture of acrylic paint and clear glue for the "glass."
Wrapping paper make for decent pattern paper and it's cheap.
And has a 1" grid on the back if you get the right kind!
love the reference to the wife's good scissors and i hope to see more.
This looks really nice! Side note- I love your nails, that's such a fun design!
it looks like morse code to me but it just returns gibberish. I cant decide if its a double encryption or just there for the looks
It IS Morse code. Not double encoded but some of the letters are doubled up to fit 😉
@@SkillTree Nice!
@@SkillTree so I have no given direction the message is to be read, I don't know if its from nail bed to top or reverse, left hand pinky to right hand pinky or right to left, nor can I say for certain which are 1, 2, 3 or 4 character letters 😂😅 many layers of potential encryption.
Dont tell me any hints, Im having too much fun trying to figure it out
@@lukeboulter8735 good luck!!!
Now I'm going to have to make one and add it to my archery stand for when I go shooting.
That would be EPIC
@@SkillTree I bet if you make it big enough you could set it up as apart of a hiking pack that unfolds like your tent pack into a mobile shop
Another great build! Future project idea: Building a bad ass banner holder to compliment it. Wood or metal working skill enhancement.
I know you were using the leather sewing machine, but I would've done a serging stitch for those detail lines. Would make them thicker and more 3D for extra pop.
Dude you did so good. As the full clean banner was done I was sitting thinking, that could really use some airbrush to make it pop. And you did give yourself a good pat on the back it looks awesome!
Spectacular! I'm with you on the airbrushing saga, at first glance it's a bit on the heavy side, but I think you're both figuratively and literally "too close" to it. From a distance, by sunlight or torchlight, without those deep lines I think you're absolutely right, it would have looked too flat and "clean". With a bit of use and exposure to the elements, I suspect that will all waether and blend marvellously.
I’ve learned that the finished product is always so much more than the sum of its parts. Great job brother!
This bias tape is exactly what I was looking for! (Hibbel)