I can recommend getting your plywood layer wet, but not super water logged. It’ll dry out in time, but it becomes more flexible and prevents the wood from straightening out. When we did our banister, that’s how we curved the wood.
@@user-tc6ji4iw4p I uploaded a quick video showing my shield press on the schreckpmc channel. It includes examples of shields made with it. I did not get as good of a curvature as I would have liked. Probably because I didn’t keep them in the press long enough.
I don’t understand how you only have 8.9k subs, but you just gained another. This was the most interesting and useful video I have ever found on trying to make a kite shield. I’ve wanted to try but couldn’t find a good video, and you actually tell us what you’re using instead of me having to guess. Keep up the great work👍
How on earth do you only have 8k subscribers, you are far more interesting and produce a far better video than much larger channels. You make cool shield too. I guess.
There are services you can literally pay to get subscribers. He obviously does not use that service. His total appears lower, but it is a real quantity of actual people, not bots.
Interesting. 7 kilos is...well, heavy, but guess it is expected. Had only experienced center grip viking kind of shields myself and they were definitely lighter. Maybe I'll return to hema one day and try one of the kind you made
I need an electric planer. I can’t believe how many hobby items that use them. I just thought they would be a very useless tool, but it will absolutely help me! In your research on shields using leather hides, have you come across the meat side facing outward? I saw a boot maker use the smooth side in towards the toe and the rough side out. And it turns out it harder to get through it when making a cut. I used a couple pieces of scrap and gave it a try to see which it took less effort to cut… it checks out. I was curious if that was a thing makers back in the day knew or not?
Actually no leather hides where used, only Rawhides. The only difference you got with the meat and smooth side in that case is the roughness of the surface. Caus you want a flat surface to paint on, and a rough one in order to have a larger connecting surface for the main gluing process, it only makes sense to put the meatside towards the wooden core :)
I have been fighting for close to 10 years now in different reenactment as medieval, viking and buhurt. 7 kg is too much. I allways make my shields 8mm thick, then fabrics on top so maby ends up on a 9-10mm at max. This makes them alot lighter and still strong, a high quality wood and high quality fabric makes all the difference. So you should try it out and also put a roap then cover it with the fabric like u did and sew a leather edge on it.
Hi! I also fought in many different disciplines (buhurt, VK, reenactment, CB, show fight) , but only since 9 years so faar. If you don't have to wear VK-armor and only chainmail+ gambeson + open helmet you got more energie reserves. A shoulder strap makes a HUGE difference and in addition with the variation of handeling it works. Especially because you also can carry the shield way closer to your body, caus of it's size, what also makes the shoulder strap even more efficient. The customer is, in fact so satisfied, that he allready orderd a second one. But only 110cm high, not because of the weight, but because 1.: he likes it so much that he doesn't want to risk to damage it in battle 2.: his training partners complained caus it's so efficient. For what do you use your shields precisely and how many layers of fabrik do you need? Which kind of wood do you use? Could you please tell me the weight and measurements of one of your shields, so that we can scale those up as reference?
@@TheShieldery sounds good. Yeah i just want you to try out make a thinner shield, i try to get hands of a plywood thats made of birch or ash depending on what the supplier of wood got in stock but both works, we have one that is with really thin layers and like 6-8 layers, it makes it hold up really good, i dont have eny kite shield atm but i will make one and in the same way u did with rope and then the hemp strap around it becous that looks sick dude! But if u want and have eny other contact area i can send you pictures of my progress of my new shield when i start it. :) The fabric depends, linnen tight waved linnen fabric works great but also a thicker cotton canvas i have used and it worked out fine, but i prefer linnen. Also if u gonna have a unpainted shield linnen looks better. What dimentions is that kite shield in the video? :) And how tall are you?
I agree to simonfranzen, 7kg is way to much. my experience so far: combine woods, front: birch 3,5mm, inside: poplar 4mm don't put a layer of fabrics between the wood plates, if extra fabric is necessary put an extra layer at the front for a kite with a height of 125cm and width around 76cm you can get from 3,5kg to4kg, much weight comes by rawhide, use them as small as possible (don't get me wrong, use thick material but cut stripes in maximum of 5cm broad, just to get around the edges)
Thank you for the very informative video. It is always a pleasure to see a professional craftsman work. There are many techniques in the video to learn, and can only be learned by observation than by doing it. Thank you and please keep up your videos and your professional engagement in the comments. Very appreciated.
The individual steel ribs for bending is a really interesting idea. It would take up much less storage space than the jig I built. Mine is 2'x4' plywood with wooden ribs permanently attached to it. It achieves the same goal. I also use ratchet straps
Suggestion for fixing the rope against the edge: make a loop of rope or twine around the shield, perpendicular to the edge rope. Should be able to cover the edges at two points. Then, put a stick or something tough between the edge rope and the rope holding it down. Hold the stick against the inside of the outer rope, and twist it, so a loop and a series of twists forms around the stick. Twist until the outer rope is tight against the edge rope. You can also do this with metal wire, and reuse it a few times, annealing the twisty parts a few times to avoid work hardening.
That's actually a methode I tried when I started to apply the rope. The Problems with that where: 1.: It's very difficult/Impossible for not parallel edges, which you usally have on a shield. The string just slides down towards the tip caus the shield gets slimmer in that direction, but that halfway could be fixed with a lot of effort; But how would you string the rope on the round top or bottom? 2.: The rims are not paralell to echother on the shields middle part; they are always in a right degree angle to the bent surface and therefor, if you add force in the direction of the other edge, the edge-rope would tend to slip to the shields backside; sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the broadth of the shield. That makes the edge and the shield as a whole ugly in the end, lowers the funktion and makes the gluing so much more difficult. 3.: you can't hold the edge-rope in place, when you are only halfway done and not finished with the hole edge. Becaus of that it could fall down when the glue is not sticking immidiatly. Caus of that you also can't bring a tension the edge-rope, caus it would just slip off on the top You see, I got the same idea as you when I started and I can only advice you to go with the tape as a Beginner. Thank's for writing that comment! I thought about mentioning those Problems and my personal thinking process in the video but then decided to eddit it out. Now people who read the comments and are interested got the chance of reading it here!
Couldn't you use also small nails? First glue the robe and then nail it in place? Like every 5-10cm a small nail orso. Doing so the rope will be kept better in place during battles?
Nice Idea, but they firstly could split the wood and also would rub through the other two textile layers above (on this shield only 1) when getting hit, instantly. You'd also need Upholstery nails or similar, caus otherwise the nailhead would slip through the rope. But even then you wouldn't have the large preassure area you would have with my two other methods. Till now even with hellbard impact and striking with the shield in Buhurt with full force, not a single rope got loose and slipped over the edge. And The oldest shields are now in use for 7 Years. I think in the first year I sold only 10 buhurt striking shields, but that still gives a good picture ;) I also thought about the nail option a lot though when I started XD . It took me a long time to figure out the one I'm using right now. In any case, thanks for watching my videos and leaving a comment, don't think I didn't notice ;) hehe And if you got other ideas or questions, feel free to ask! :)
@@TheShieldery thnx for your detailed reply! =) Yeah that is true it would crack the plywood more easily when using a too big of a nail. And didn't think about the rubbing through the fabrics. Cool to hear it is that durable!
empty, iron barrel, two wooden slats, two load straps, PVA glue, two 3 mm plywood boards. Where can I get an iron barrel? An empty iron barrel floats behind the workshops. The load belt creates extreme pressure, and the next day you can cut a shield from the 6 mm plywood, Much easier than playing with weird construction... :) It also seems to me that your shield is not curved enough. The originals, at least in Eastern Europe, were much, much more curved ;) (It should be kept in mind that the plywood board must be taken slightly larger than the shield and the shape of the shield must only be sawed out of the curved rectangle.) In any case, this complex construction is not needed to make a shield. The board shield can also be glued together against the barrel with the pressure of the car's load belt, it presses them tightly together. You simply cut off the edges on wooden boards. And then curved the angular places with a planer... This is how we made larp shields about 30 years ago, they also resisted real axes when we tested them. :)
Thanks for your honest feedback! How many people do you know, that got an empty iron barrel with a nice circumference? 1 of 100 ? I know that you can also use only 2 times 3mm; but not if you want to fight with it. The shield would just break in two pieces the first time you fall on it. Yes, mine is curved less then what you can see on most sources (not all though!) of the kite shield. I think the main reason for that huge curfature was that it can deflect stings and projectiles way easyer. But that's not important in modern medieval battles. Now it makes more sense to get a broader cover from all the possible hits from the front. I also never claimed to make a historical or accurate replike btw. ;) . What sizes where your LARP shields? Would you really use only 2 * 3mm plates if you want to use it for fighting regularly in modern medieval battles and in training against the cheap, heavy 2-3mm Impact edge swords, as well as larger Axes? Would your construction resist the case I describe at 5:36 ? :) From my experience the answere is a clear no. I even create new customers for myself by breaking those with my buhurt Falchion. Or by targeting the edge directly if it's only protected with some fabrik of course ;).
@@TheShieldery 1. One old rusty barrel, which cost 0 euros, was used by about 15 people :). Iron barrels with different diameters can also be bought new if you don't mind going to a scrap metal collection point. Also, four plywood boards for two shields can be pulled around one barrel in one time, four blanks (shield) can be made in a day, about 20 min of work in total (gluing the slats to the boards and tightening the car load belts). 2. 2x3 mm plywood, covered with a decent cloth, (edge: leather covered with cloth)- mine lasted a good amount of fighting, winter, sledding down the hill and held all halberds, falchions and clubs. Rare, in some places, the edge of the halberd came through about 1 cm - I don't care. After PVA glue and fabric again, everything is fine. When covered with 2-3 mm of rawhide, nothing happened. 3. The main purpose of this curvature is better shielding of the fighter and shock absorption. .... ("A very curved shield and a more elastic (thinner) shield absorb impacts better because they function like a spring. (strength theory). When an impact occurs, the curved shape and elasticity allow the shield to deform and then return to its original shape, dissipating the energy of the impact over a larger area and a longer period of time.... This reduces the force felt at any single point, making the shield more effective at protecting the user. Additionally, it reduces impact stress on the shield arm, causing the arm to tire less quickly".) 4. I understood that you did not mean a historical report. :), that's why I offered a simpler option on how to bend plywood :) 5. have been participating in various tournaments since the late 90s.. :) The shields have withstood the buhurt blows of the Eastern Slavic warriors, skandinavian berserkers, deutsche ritters... in Kohotun, Viipuri (Vyburg), Irboska (Izborsk), Köningsberg (Kaliningrad), different events in Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Sweden usw. I've also had sometimes fun with a... 3mm plywood shield in full viking full combat with steel weapons. Seeing this, they tried to deliberately break the shield - and it ended....they cut into the shield of their sword and then watch with a stupid face as it is twisted from their hands. :) Yes, such a shield can withstand 1-2 fights, but so what. I'll get a new shield for the next fight - the shield is an expendable item :) 6. If you come to the Wollin (Wolin) Viking Festival this year, I promise you to demolish my shield - if I'm holding it :). It is easy to find me there, there are few of us Estonians there.
@@heikkipaltser1829 1. in Estonia it might be the case, but not in (south-west) Germany. :( 2. Juuuuust to be sure; we are talking about Popplar plywood (as I used it in the video) here? As you also know from the video, I am selling those shields. I can't and don't want to offer products that will have to be repaired after every first or second fight. In addition the varnish you need for the customers coat of arms makes it impossible to apply another layer of fabrik after the end of the paint job... Which would also cover up the coat of arms :( ... 3. Yeah, sure; but doesn't that make your arm vibrate quite hard with every hit? I am on bord with the "momentum of inertia" (google translate that, I would have never gussed that therm) which is caused by the larger cross-section, but that's not important when it comes to the shields structural strenghth in the example I mentioned in my last response with the time mark. The curvature actually worsens the Leverage. ;) about 5. : nice to hear, but see my response about point 2. ;) 6. thank you for the offer, but that's not my historical time frame and an over 9 hour drive away from my position :( . I'm not gonna do that because of an argument over the internet XD ;) . If you want you could make a testing video about your shield though. If you'll do that, please explain your shields construction in detail in order to make sure that no misunderstandings happen. My falchion is one of the kind of the Maciejowski Bible btw. :)
@@TheShieldery Ich verstehe die Unterschiede, die Sie berücksichtigen müssen, und ich verstehe, warum dies das Richtige für Sie ist. Ich wollte nicht streiten,..mmm... ich dachte, ich würde eine Idee teilen - über eine Alternative zum Biegen von Sperrholz. Wir haben Birke und Kiefer verwendet, Pappel ist in Estland Mangelware und sehr teuer,....Die Vibration des Schildes stört nicht wesentlich, solche stechenden Schläge ermüden die Hand Ja, Wollin ist auch weit für uns und Stuttgart ist noch weiter... Ich war schon ein paar Mal... vor langer Zeit, als ich für ein Uni-Praktikum in Trier war und ich werde es sicher nicht schaffen dieses Jahr. Aber nächstes Jahr ist geplant, einen Roadtrip nach Portugal zu machen, warum nicht durch den Schwarzwald und Stuttgart fahren :)
ok; haven't heard that bevore; what would be the benefit? I mean; the glue needs air to dry, so I don't think it would be possible in a vacuum bag?
7 месяцев назад+1
What do you use for the last protective layer? I tried out linseed oil...but im not satisfied with it. Especially White gets a bit brown*ish and transparent...also overall it gets some shiny reflections.
Yeah, linseed oil varnish is not that good for that purpose. I used a matt acrylic varnish. I'd recommend the one from "Creative Deco", or "Marabu". You could also use the acrylic binder as a varnish directly, like Dispersion K 498, or 500D. Have fun! :)
which sheets? you mean the wood? Yes, a bit but then the glue wouldn't be that effictive caus it gets thinned down and needs like three times as long to dry.
I do my shields is a very similar way but on the last one I tried covering it with a few layers of PVA to protect the paint, works amazingly, until something a little bit wet comes nearby and the shields becomes white with fear!
Thank you!!! I used a matt acrylic varnish. I'd recommend the one from "Creative Deco", or "Marabu". You could also use the acrylic binder as a varnish directly, like Dispersion K 498, or 500D. I usually apply one layer on the Back before placing the fittings and two layers on the Front after i Finish the Paintjob. Have fun! :)
Hi Dimitry! I will come to hattin, but this shield would be waaaay to big for the luggage :( . Besides that I'm not as good as you guys whaen it comes to heat resistance XD.
Is this a propper translation? : "The result was a heavy piece of junk with a missing shock-absorbing cushion. The hand will be very happy." If yes, I am sad to hear that :( . The it's the gambesons job to absorb the shock and on museum pieces cushions where not that commen and if they where, they only padded the back of your hand. As you can see in the video, I actually installed one of those. So it's not missing, you mayby just think it's to small, because it doesn't cover the forarm? If you want to change your arms Position something like that would be way over the top. Actually the customer is extremly happy and allready ordered a second one :) .
@@TheShieldery In appearance, the edge of the shield is 15+ millimeters, which is excessively heavy for such a large shield. The client is apparently a thrill-seeker, but this is before the first dislocation)
A matt, water based one. the brand was marabu, but it isn't available on amazon anymore since aview weeks. Now I try the one from Creative Deco and it looks good so faar ;) .
@@TheShieldery It's roughly 120cm tall and a roughly 50cm wide, it seems to be holding up quite nicely and i also rimmed it with leather on the edges and added 2 straps for me to hold it in combat. (It was a little tricky to measure how wide it is due to its curvature though and because of that curvature its also hard to put a boss on it).
Nice, that's quite large. How thick is your shield then? with the three 4 mm thick boards I used in the video I am up to 12mm. Yours sound nice all in all :) @@blooky102
@@TheShieldery Ohh yours is 12mm? I think I misjudged the thickness of your shield, mine is 17mm but if you take away the 2mm x2 thickness of the leather around the edge it should be 13mm. XD my bad sorry (also I re-measured the shield width and its 600mm I think I was sleepy and I measured it too high up before). The leather for my rimming I did was veg tan leather that was soaked over night in a bucket of water and then clamped on the edges of the shield when it dried. ^^
@@blooky102 Ah, nice. I don't like the leather or rawhide edge to be honest. The problem is, that if it gets damaged you can't repair it and is in most cases the reason why a shield gets replaced. With my method you can just overpaint a possible damage and glue a possible loosend up fabrik piece again. In addition the strenghtened edge wasn't used on historic pieces. On todays battel reenactments it's very important though and therefor yhould be covered up in my oppinion, which isn't possible with the leather or rawhide enforcement. But caus that's brodly acepted in our community, I don't really men that as a criticism, I just wanted to mention it 😅😅
Do you pretreat wood with anything like carbonising oils? Like leenseed or tung? Doing a classic viking shield now, and thinking about should i treat the birch plywood before glueing the fabric
It was " Ponal classic Holzleim ". Just white, not water tight pva glue :) . Or technically speaking White Wood glue which fulfilles, DIN EN 204 with the resistance class of D 2
Awesome work. The straps are a bit too low for my personal taste and the straps are way too modern for the shield type used. But that's just me nit picking.
Thank you! The straps are precisely on the scenter of gravity. If they would be higher the shield would always tip forward from the users point of view and hit the owen shins. What do you mean with the straps are to modern? 😅 the leather is vegetable tanned and the holes positions are directly copied from the shield of arnold von brienz: www.e-periodica.ch/cntmng?pid=zak-003:1951:12::424
@@TheShieldery they are pretty sophisticated and based on a knightky shield of the 14th century. The shield was in use up until roughly 1180, where the top of the "norman" shield (dragon, drop or kite shield) got flattened - although earlier examples of flat topped kite shields do exist. During that time, straps were more simple. Don't get me wrong it looks awesome, is extremely well made and will certainly be very handy for the fighter. The position of the straps looked awkward, because you certainly had trouble with vision. It might be a lots better for the actual user.
i think this size may be related to the early italian pavesieri of the 13th c.. it sure looks like a defencive wall if you could get a line of men armed with such!
I can recommend getting your plywood layer wet, but not super water logged. It’ll dry out in time, but it becomes more flexible and prevents the wood from straightening out. When we did our banister, that’s how we curved the wood.
yeah, that helps, but I only do that on more complex shapes. The problem is that it could thinnen your glue down if you're not careful.
I made my shield press out of 2x6s cut to profile. It worked.
Can you make a youtube video about how you did that?
@@user-tc6ji4iw4p I’ve never done a tutorial video but I can upload a quickie showing what I am talking about.
@@user-tc6ji4iw4p I uploaded a quick video showing my shield press on the schreckpmc channel. It includes examples of shields made with it. I did not get as good of a curvature as I would have liked. Probably because I didn’t keep them in the press long enough.
I don’t understand how you only have 8.9k subs, but you just gained another. This was the most interesting and useful video I have ever found on trying to make a kite shield. I’ve wanted to try but couldn’t find a good video, and you actually tell us what you’re using instead of me having to guess. Keep up the great work👍
How on earth do you only have 8k subscribers, you are far more interesting and produce a far better video than much larger channels. You make cool shield too. I guess.
There are services you can literally pay to get subscribers. He obviously does not use that service. His total appears lower, but it is a real quantity of actual people, not bots.
This is such good content. I can't believe you only have 8k subs. Earned another one today
Dude, this is without any doubt the best shield crafting tutorial I've ever seen, this will surely help me with my kite shield. Huge thanks for it!!
Interesting. 7 kilos is...well, heavy, but guess it is expected. Had only experienced center grip viking kind of shields myself and they were definitely lighter. Maybe I'll return to hema one day and try one of the kind you made
Thanks! The customer is very happy and says it works very good in fight even over a longer time. That means it works :) .
I need an electric planer. I can’t believe how many hobby items that use them. I just thought they would be a very useless tool, but it will absolutely help me! In your research on shields using leather hides, have you come across the meat side facing outward? I saw a boot maker use the smooth side in towards the toe and the rough side out. And it turns out it harder to get through it when making a cut. I used a couple pieces of scrap and gave it a try to see which it took less effort to cut… it checks out. I was curious if that was a thing makers back in the day knew or not?
Actually no leather hides where used, only Rawhides. The only difference you got with the meat and smooth side in that case is the roughness of the surface. Caus you want a flat surface to paint on, and a rough one in order to have a larger connecting surface for the main gluing process, it only makes sense to put the meatside towards the wooden core :)
Just amazing!!!! OMG, I think I might have found a new hobby xD
I loved the hack with the ducktape. Great work!!
I have been fighting for close to 10 years now in different reenactment as medieval, viking and buhurt. 7 kg is too much. I allways make my shields 8mm thick, then fabrics on top so maby ends up on a 9-10mm at max. This makes them alot lighter and still strong, a high quality wood and high quality fabric makes all the difference. So you should try it out and also put a roap then cover it with the fabric like u did and sew a leather edge on it.
Hi!
I also fought in many different disciplines (buhurt, VK, reenactment, CB, show fight) , but only since 9 years so faar. If you don't have to wear VK-armor and only chainmail+ gambeson + open helmet you got more energie reserves. A shoulder strap makes a HUGE difference and in addition with the variation of handeling it works. Especially because you also can carry the shield way closer to your body, caus of it's size, what also makes the shoulder strap even more efficient.
The customer is, in fact so satisfied, that he allready orderd a second one. But only 110cm high, not because of the weight, but because 1.: he likes it so much that he doesn't want to risk to damage it in battle 2.: his training partners complained caus it's so efficient.
For what do you use your shields precisely and how many layers of fabrik do you need? Which kind of wood do you use? Could you please tell me the weight and measurements of one of your shields, so that we can scale those up as reference?
@@TheShieldery sounds good. Yeah i just want you to try out make a thinner shield, i try to get hands of a plywood thats made of birch or ash depending on what the supplier of wood got in stock but both works, we have one that is with really thin layers and like 6-8 layers, it makes it hold up really good, i dont have eny kite shield atm but i will make one and in the same way u did with rope and then the hemp strap around it becous that looks sick dude! But if u want and have eny other contact area i can send you pictures of my progress of my new shield when i start it. :) The fabric depends, linnen tight waved linnen fabric works great but also a thicker cotton canvas i have used and it worked out fine, but i prefer linnen. Also if u gonna have a unpainted shield linnen looks better. What dimentions is that kite shield in the video? :) And how tall are you?
@@simonfranzen9514 I was on a festieval when you commented, sorry I forgott to answhere till now 😅 . the Shield measures 135 x 75 cm. I am 180cm tall.
I agree to simonfranzen, 7kg is way to much.
my experience so far: combine woods, front: birch 3,5mm, inside: poplar 4mm
don't put a layer of fabrics between the wood plates, if extra fabric is necessary put an extra layer at the front
for a kite with a height of 125cm and width around 76cm you can get from 3,5kg to4kg, much weight comes by rawhide, use them as small as possible (don't get me wrong, use thick material but cut stripes in maximum of 5cm broad, just to get around the edges)
There is never too many clamps😂
Very cool, cheers from Sweden
Thank you for the very informative video. It is always a pleasure to see a professional craftsman work. There are many techniques in the video to learn, and can only be learned by observation than by doing it. Thank you and please keep up your videos and your professional engagement in the comments. Very appreciated.
I love ur enthusiasm for medieval projects! Earned a follower for that!
The individual steel ribs for bending is a really interesting idea. It would take up much less storage space than the jig I built. Mine is 2'x4' plywood with wooden ribs permanently attached to it. It achieves the same goal. I also use ratchet straps
Ausgezeichnet!
Just found your channel and am very glad i did. Great content, can't wait to see more. Liked, subscribed and commented.
Amazing content brother. Cheers from the states
Suggestion for fixing the rope against the edge: make a loop of rope or twine around the shield, perpendicular to the edge rope. Should be able to cover the edges at two points. Then, put a stick or something tough between the edge rope and the rope holding it down. Hold the stick against the inside of the outer rope, and twist it, so a loop and a series of twists forms around the stick. Twist until the outer rope is tight against the edge rope.
You can also do this with metal wire, and reuse it a few times, annealing the twisty parts a few times to avoid work hardening.
That's actually a methode I tried when I started to apply the rope.
The Problems with that where:
1.: It's very difficult/Impossible for not parallel edges, which you usally have on a shield. The string just slides down towards the tip caus the shield gets slimmer in that direction, but that halfway could be fixed with a lot of effort; But how would you string the rope on the round top or bottom?
2.: The rims are not paralell to echother on the shields middle part; they are always in a right degree angle to the bent surface and therefor, if you add force in the direction of the other edge, the edge-rope would tend to slip to the shields backside; sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the broadth of the shield. That makes the edge and the shield as a whole ugly in the end, lowers the funktion and makes the gluing so much more difficult.
3.: you can't hold the edge-rope in place, when you are only halfway done and not finished with the hole edge. Becaus of that it could fall down when the glue is not sticking immidiatly. Caus of that you also can't bring a tension the edge-rope, caus it would just slip off on the top
You see, I got the same idea as you when I started and I can only advice you to go with the tape as a Beginner.
Thank's for writing that comment! I thought about mentioning those Problems and my personal thinking process in the video but then decided to eddit it out. Now people who read the comments and are interested got the chance of reading it here!
@@TheShieldery hey I'm glad you tried it out at least! Just discovered your channel, you make GREAT content. Definitely relaxing. Thank you!
I really enjoyed this video
Couldn't you use also small nails? First glue the robe and then nail it in place? Like every 5-10cm a small nail orso.
Doing so the rope will be kept better in place during battles?
Nice Idea, but they firstly could split the wood and also would rub through the other two textile layers above (on this shield only 1) when getting hit, instantly. You'd also need Upholstery nails or similar, caus otherwise the nailhead would slip through the rope. But even then you wouldn't have the large preassure area you would have with my two other methods. Till now even with hellbard impact and striking with the shield in Buhurt with full force, not a single rope got loose and slipped over the edge. And The oldest shields are now in use for 7 Years. I think in the first year I sold only 10 buhurt striking shields, but that still gives a good picture ;)
I also thought about the nail option a lot though when I started XD . It took me a long time to figure out the one I'm using right now.
In any case, thanks for watching my videos and leaving a comment, don't think I didn't notice ;) hehe
And if you got other ideas or questions, feel free to ask! :)
@@TheShieldery thnx for your detailed reply! =) Yeah that is true it would crack the plywood more easily when using a too big of a nail. And didn't think about the rubbing through the fabrics. Cool to hear it is that durable!
empty, iron barrel, two wooden slats, two load straps, PVA glue, two 3 mm plywood boards. Where can I get an iron barrel? An empty iron barrel floats behind the workshops. The load belt creates extreme pressure, and the next day you can cut a shield from the 6 mm plywood, Much easier than playing with weird construction... :)
It also seems to me that your shield is not curved enough. The originals, at least in Eastern Europe, were much, much more curved ;) (It should be kept in mind that the plywood board must be taken slightly larger than the shield and the shape of the shield must only be sawed out of the curved rectangle.)
In any case, this complex construction is not needed to make a shield. The board shield can also be glued together against the barrel with the pressure of the car's load belt, it presses them tightly together. You simply cut off the edges on wooden boards. And then curved the angular places with a planer... This is how we made larp shields about 30 years ago, they also resisted real axes when we tested them. :)
Thanks for your honest feedback!
How many people do you know, that got an empty iron barrel with a nice circumference? 1 of 100 ?
I know that you can also use only 2 times 3mm; but not if you want to fight with it. The shield would just break in two pieces the first time you fall on it. Yes, mine is curved less then what you can see on most sources (not all though!) of the kite shield. I think the main reason for that huge curfature was that it can deflect stings and projectiles way easyer. But that's not important in modern medieval battles. Now it makes more sense to get a broader cover from all the possible hits from the front. I also never claimed to make a historical or accurate replike btw. ;) .
What sizes where your LARP shields? Would you really use only 2 * 3mm plates if you want to use it for fighting regularly in modern medieval battles and in training against the cheap, heavy 2-3mm Impact edge swords, as well as larger Axes? Would your construction resist the case I describe at 5:36 ? :)
From my experience the answere is a clear no. I even create new customers for myself by breaking those with my buhurt Falchion. Or by targeting the edge directly if it's only protected with some fabrik of course ;).
@@TheShieldery
1. One old rusty barrel, which cost 0 euros, was used by about 15 people :). Iron barrels with different diameters can also be bought new if you don't mind going to a scrap metal collection point. Also, four plywood boards for two shields can be pulled around one barrel in one time, four blanks (shield) can be made in a day, about 20 min of work in total (gluing the slats to the boards and tightening the car load belts).
2. 2x3 mm plywood, covered with a decent cloth, (edge: leather covered with cloth)- mine lasted a good amount of fighting, winter, sledding down the hill and held all halberds, falchions and clubs. Rare, in some places, the edge of the halberd came through about 1 cm - I don't care. After PVA glue and fabric again, everything is fine. When covered with 2-3 mm of rawhide, nothing happened.
3. The main purpose of this curvature is better shielding of the fighter and shock absorption. .... ("A very curved shield and a more elastic (thinner) shield absorb impacts better because they function like a spring. (strength theory). When an impact occurs, the curved shape and elasticity allow the shield to deform and then return to its original shape, dissipating the energy of the impact over a larger area and a longer period of time.... This reduces the force felt at any single point, making the shield more effective at protecting the user. Additionally, it reduces impact stress on the shield arm, causing the arm to tire less quickly".)
4. I understood that you did not mean a historical report. :), that's why I offered a simpler option on how to bend plywood :)
5. have been participating in various tournaments since the late 90s.. :) The shields have withstood the buhurt blows of the Eastern Slavic warriors, skandinavian berserkers, deutsche ritters... in Kohotun, Viipuri (Vyburg), Irboska (Izborsk), Köningsberg (Kaliningrad), different events in Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Sweden usw.
I've also had sometimes fun with a... 3mm plywood shield in full viking full combat with steel weapons. Seeing this, they tried to deliberately break the shield - and it ended....they cut into the shield of their sword and then watch with a stupid face as it is twisted from their hands. :) Yes, such a shield can withstand 1-2 fights, but so what. I'll get a new shield for the next fight - the shield is an expendable item :)
6. If you come to the Wollin (Wolin) Viking Festival this year, I promise you to demolish my shield - if I'm holding it :). It is easy to find me there, there are few of us Estonians there.
@@heikkipaltser1829
1. in Estonia it might be the case, but not in (south-west) Germany. :(
2. Juuuuust to be sure; we are talking about Popplar plywood (as I used it in the video) here? As you also know from the video, I am selling those shields. I can't and don't want to offer products that will have to be repaired after every first or second fight. In addition the varnish you need for the customers coat of arms makes it impossible to apply another layer of fabrik after the end of the paint job... Which would also cover up the coat of arms :( ...
3. Yeah, sure; but doesn't that make your arm vibrate quite hard with every hit? I am on bord with the "momentum of inertia" (google translate that, I would have never gussed that therm) which is caused by the larger cross-section, but that's not important when it comes to the shields structural strenghth in the example I mentioned in my last response with the time mark. The curvature actually worsens the Leverage. ;)
about 5. : nice to hear, but see my response about point 2. ;)
6. thank you for the offer, but that's not my historical time frame and an over 9 hour drive away from my position :( . I'm not gonna do that because of an argument over the internet XD ;) . If you want you could make a testing video about your shield though. If you'll do that, please explain your shields construction in detail in order to make sure that no misunderstandings happen. My falchion is one of the kind of the Maciejowski Bible btw. :)
@@TheShieldery Ich verstehe die Unterschiede, die Sie berücksichtigen müssen, und ich verstehe, warum dies das Richtige für Sie ist. Ich wollte nicht streiten,..mmm... ich dachte, ich würde eine Idee teilen - über eine Alternative zum Biegen von Sperrholz.
Wir haben Birke und Kiefer verwendet, Pappel ist in Estland Mangelware und sehr teuer,....Die Vibration des Schildes stört nicht wesentlich, solche stechenden Schläge ermüden die Hand
Ja, Wollin ist auch weit für uns und Stuttgart ist noch weiter... Ich war schon ein paar Mal... vor langer Zeit, als ich für ein Uni-Praktikum in Trier war und ich werde es sicher nicht schaffen dieses Jahr. Aber nächstes Jahr ist geplant, einen Roadtrip nach Portugal zu machen, warum nicht durch den Schwarzwald und Stuttgart fahren :)
you need a vacuum bag for gluing large areas
ok; haven't heard that bevore; what would be the benefit? I mean; the glue needs air to dry, so I don't think it would be possible in a vacuum bag?
What do you use for the last protective layer? I tried out linseed oil...but im not satisfied with it. Especially White gets a bit brown*ish and transparent...also overall it gets some shiny reflections.
Yeah, linseed oil varnish is not that good for that purpose. I used a matt acrylic varnish. I'd recommend the one from "Creative Deco", or "Marabu".
You could also use the acrylic binder as a varnish directly, like Dispersion K 498, or 500D.
Have fun! :)
would it help to make the sheets wet before you stretch them?
which sheets? you mean the wood? Yes, a bit but then the glue wouldn't be that effictive caus it gets thinned down and needs like three times as long to dry.
what about Those Oval roman army shields? or those greek cut outs for spears to go through the shield?
I am afraid I need more context to understand the question?
🗡😇🛡DEUS DE VULT, Gott segne Amen.
Der Schild ist fantastisch geworden! 🤩
Er wird Gottes Willen erfüllen...✝️🕊️
1:27 These bowstrings look quite sturdy. 😅
Indeed! So technical mechanics wasn't a waste of time after all XD
Hi! again, really beautiful video! What would you recommend as a protection layer on top of acrylic paint and glue?
I do my shields is a very similar way but on the last one I tried covering it with a few layers of PVA to protect the paint, works amazingly, until something a little bit wet comes nearby and the shields becomes white with fear!
Thank you!!!
I used a matt acrylic varnish. I'd recommend the one from "Creative Deco", or "Marabu".
You could also use the acrylic binder as a varnish directly, like Dispersion K 498, or 500D.
I usually apply one layer on the Back before placing the fittings and two layers on the Front after i Finish the Paintjob.
Have fun! :)
Hi Andre!
A really tuff sheald!
Did you going to bring it to the Hattin this year?
Hi Dimitry! I will come to hattin, but this shield would be waaaay to big for the luggage :( .
Besides that I'm not as good as you guys whaen it comes to heat resistance XD.
@@TheShieldery Ok, see you soon!
Получилась тяжеленная шняга с отсутствующей амортизационной подушкой. Рука будет очень рада.
Is this a propper translation? :
"The result was a heavy piece of junk with a missing shock-absorbing cushion. The hand will be very happy."
If yes, I am sad to hear that :( . The it's the gambesons job to absorb the shock and on museum pieces cushions where not that commen and if they where, they only padded the back of your hand. As you can see in the video, I actually installed one of those. So it's not missing, you mayby just think it's to small, because it doesn't cover the forarm? If you want to change your arms Position something like that would be way over the top.
Actually the customer is extremly happy and allready ordered a second one :) .
@@TheShieldery In appearance, the edge of the shield is 15+ millimeters, which is excessively heavy for such a large shield. The client is apparently a thrill-seeker, but this is before the first dislocation)
bit to heavy, I think yes, pure junk? no, just a few things I and some doing in a different way
Soo great. What did you use for varnishing?
A matt, water based one. the brand was marabu, but it isn't available on amazon anymore since aview weeks. Now I try the one from Creative Deco and it looks good so faar ;) .
Hmm my kite shield is thinner so I suspect mine only has 2 layers of wood, so why did you make yours thicker?
how large is your kite shield? at a certain sice you need to go thicker.
@@TheShieldery It's roughly 120cm tall and a roughly 50cm wide, it seems to be holding up quite nicely and i also rimmed it with leather on the edges and added 2 straps for me to hold it in combat. (It was a little tricky to measure how wide it is due to its curvature though and because of that curvature its also hard to put a boss on it).
Nice, that's quite large. How thick is your shield then? with the three 4 mm thick boards I used in the video I am up to 12mm. Yours sound nice all in all :) @@blooky102
@@TheShieldery Ohh yours is 12mm? I think I misjudged the thickness of your shield, mine is 17mm but if you take away the 2mm x2 thickness of the leather around the edge it should be 13mm. XD my bad sorry (also I re-measured the shield width and its 600mm I think I was sleepy and I measured it too high up before). The leather for my rimming I did was veg tan leather that was soaked over night in a bucket of water and then clamped on the edges of the shield when it dried. ^^
@@blooky102 Ah, nice. I don't like the leather or rawhide edge to be honest. The problem is, that if it gets damaged you can't repair it and is in most cases the reason why a shield gets replaced. With my method you can just overpaint a possible damage and glue a possible loosend up fabrik piece again. In addition the strenghtened edge wasn't used on historic pieces. On todays battel reenactments it's very important though and therefor yhould be covered up in my oppinion, which isn't possible with the leather or rawhide enforcement. But caus that's brodly acepted in our community, I don't really men that as a criticism, I just wanted to mention it 😅😅
Do you pretreat wood with anything like carbonising oils? Like leenseed or tung? Doing a classic viking shield now, and thinking about should i treat the birch plywood before glueing the fabric
No, don't to that! After applying the oil, the glue wouldn't be able to make a conection anymore!
What glue do you use?
It was " Ponal classic Holzleim ". Just white, not water tight pva glue :) . Or technically speaking White Wood glue which fulfilles, DIN EN 204 with the resistance class of D 2
Awesome work.
The straps are a bit too low for my personal taste and the straps are way too modern for the shield type used.
But that's just me nit picking.
Thank you!
The straps are precisely on the scenter of gravity. If they would be higher the shield would always tip forward from the users point of view and hit the owen shins.
What do you mean with the straps are to modern? 😅 the leather is vegetable tanned and the holes positions are directly copied from the shield of arnold von brienz: www.e-periodica.ch/cntmng?pid=zak-003:1951:12::424
@@TheShieldery they are pretty sophisticated and based on a knightky shield of the 14th century. The shield was in use up until roughly 1180, where the top of the "norman" shield (dragon, drop or kite shield) got flattened - although earlier examples of flat topped kite shields do exist.
During that time, straps were more simple.
Don't get me wrong it looks awesome, is extremely well made and will certainly be very handy for the fighter.
The position of the straps looked awkward, because you certainly had trouble with vision. It might be a lots better for the actual user.
very nice! have you ever build a rotella?
yes, I did, but it isn't tutorial ready yet ;) .
@@TheShieldery awesome! Can't wait for it
You know, I always thought shields were made of some kind of metal and not wood. :s
i think this size may be related to the early italian pavesieri of the 13th c.. it sure looks like a defencive wall if you could get a line of men armed with such!
It is a shield from the 11th and 12th centuries, but larger according to my combat tactics in 1 vs 1 or group combat combined with spearmen. 😊
it's indeed earlier, a main source is the Bayeux Tapestry :)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kite_shield#/media/File:Bayeuxtapestryscene52.jpg
@@TheShieldery yes, like I said. eleventh century, the bayeux carpet is from 1070, so eleventh century. 🤷🏻♂️
I klicked on reply to HMMM ; seems like he didn't got tagged by that. Your right of course, sorry for the inconveniance.
@@TheShieldery Very good, I got it now that I was not addressed... 🤣🤣
Geil zu sehen 👍🏻 gern mehr
I did not eept it to way only 7 kg