The Customer / friend btw is Thomas Weinhold. He got an Awsome collection of medieval weapons, shields and armors. You can look him up on Facebook on his name. I am sure he will post some awsome pictures of the Targe in approx two weeks.
I could watch this over and over again for the rest of my life! He's such a lively teacher! J wonder where he learned so much about shield building. You don't make a shield. You build one!
I love channels that don’t have a ton of subscribers, once they get huge, they’re playing the algorithm game. I do wish he gets the same compensation as the giant ones.
@@piccalillipit9211 noted! :) I still got like 10-15 shield types and construction ways to make a video about. I got to be careful not to produce myself into a corner in which noone watches a video if it isn't about a shield. I got to do other, (mayby) faster producable and longer lasting topics, too. The medieval part will stay over time and as much of the replica crafting as possible. I'm not sure wether I should explore the medieval/LARP/Wildcamping more. I like it and see a lot of potential crafting wise, but no Idea wether it hits the curiousity of my (new) audience.
Ausgezeichnet! I know I'm commenting on an older post, but your work is truly outstanding! Hands-on reconstruction of an important but neglected aspect of medieval weaponry. Thank you, and please keep posting!
Thanks! Watching, reacting and commenting on older posts makes youtube to keep them alive and suggesting them, making them an evergreen. Please continue doing so good Sir! :)
I had no idea that a shield that shape would’ve been constructed like that. I always assumed that it would’ve been steamed and bent, not carved from blocks. Beautiful work and educational!
Small tip, use an oil bath instead of a water bath when double boiling and your temp will be more even. There are some other advantages to oil over water.
This is such a great video, as are your other replicas. There's a portion of me that wishes that some museums would commission you to make some of these so guests could interact with the history more, feel how heavy or light the objects would be.
That would be awesome! There was a castle in Ireland I visited (sorry, forgot where/which…) that had a bunch of replica costumes and weaponry to hold. It was a lot of fun. I’m also reminded of the Viking museum in Dublin, which had a lot of interactive parts. I’d love to see more scaled down replicas in museums for children to interact with- museums are often aimed at either adults or children, with little set up to encourage them to explore/learn together.
A friend of mine in Crimes, her brother had the best job in the world before the war. He made exhibits for the museums, so one week he would be making a perfect replica of a shield like this, the next week a display case, the week after a "strong box" in cross-section. anything that visitors got their hands on in a museum - he had to design and make it
It's beautiful! And the guilding, wow! Also, I was thinking, if you make a bag of sand the size of an average shield, you can put the shield on the bag and it will shape and support while you paint and do all the things so it won't wobble.
Listen, I'm not trying to tell you what to do but a medieval-accurate version of the Hylian shield from The Legend of Zelda would probably get you so many views, and you definitely have the know-how (or the knoff-hoff lol) and nerdy dedication to pull it off beautifully! (And nobody's done it on RUclips from what I can tell!)
I made wooden bows with rawhide backing in the past. I used a foam/sponge paint roller to apply the hide and remove the bubbles. Worked like a charm. Elastic bandages and thumb tacks work great to keep slippery rawhide in place around odd shapes.
21:00 we just call it a sauce bottle (usually filled with tomato sauce). considering how thick it is, cutting the nozzle further down may help (the same way you use a caulking gun)
Such shields are psychological weapons. If you faced a man holding it you'd feel shame to put the slightest dent on it. Destroying it should be considered a criminal offense.
Absolutely stunning piece(s). I liked the part about moving the reference around to contend with the curved surface distortion. Very similar to the challenges of representing the curved surface of the Earth in the form of a map, but in reverse. Great work.
Terrific video, learing the many different skills required to complete the historicaly correct copy takes some staying power. Incredibley beautiful shield, respect
Very nice video! I love that I came to the same conclusion as you on how to apply rawhide and the gesso even if we did never meet or talk, I take as a proof that we had a good interpretation on the process 😁
Thanks for your other comment! yes, indeed it would take longer. And I'm also selling those, so I'd either have to double the price, or work for less then 6 €/h XD Only for it to look nearly the same at the end XD
Fantastisch! Alleine sich all dieses Wissen anzueignen, und dann auch noch umsetzen zu können. Ich bewundere deine Geduld und deine Englischkenntnisse ;-) Ein Tipp: Nimm statt der Flasche eine Spritztüte oder Plastiktüte. Mehrere dünnere Schichten könnten auch das Reissen reduzieren. Ein wenig mehr Ausleuchtung hier und da...perfekt! ❤
Vielen Dank für das Kompliment! Eine Spritztüte funktioneirt leider nicht :( . Da sag ich bei min 21:00 was dazu. Piping bag bedeutet btw. Spritzbeutel; musste ich googlen XD
Hi supernice project! But by the way, Zinnober ist nicht giftig, das Quecksilber ist sehr fest am Schwefel gebunden und nachdem man es geschluckt hat wird es einfach wieder ausgeschieden. Das einzige was man allerdings nicht machen sollte, ist es zu erhitzen.
ENDLICH EIN NEUES VIDEO! :D Wie jedes Mal herausragende Arbeit. Freue mich immer wenn du frischen Content raushaust - genau das ist, was ich auf RUclips sehen will!
what a beautiful piece of work! a tip for squeezing the thicker gesso - you can reload an old plastic caulk tube and use a caulking gun, should be pretty easy. very easy to put it back in hot water if it gets too stiff, and no lid to pop off. also, i think some cabinet scrapers would be very useful tools to have.
Thanks a lot :)) ! the plastic caulk tubes sound like a nice idea to try, but I am afraid it would be to difficult to control the outflow, caus the consistency changes every second. But I am quite curious and allready added a revilling plastic caulk tube to my amazon shopping cart. I allready got some small scrapers, but to be honest a real eye-opener for me was a set of Drawknifes for like 20€ . You can really go into detail and even work on very small crevices with them. They are also good to work with, when you got only one hand, what makes a huge difference when you need the other one to keep the piece in place. I only had one hand left to handle the edge grinder for like 90 minutes in the End of carving XDDDDDDDD. And no, I got no and neither inted to buy a OSHA-handbock for my Workbench.
Outstanding dude! I know it's not traditional, but a hypodermic needle and syringe would help deal with the air bubbles. It creates an almost invisible puncture, and you can draw the air out, rather cutting the surface or having to push the bubble to an edge. Top level craftsmanship buddy!
Thank you! I actually have tryed that allredy, but there are some problems: 1.: If you try to use the needle when the rawhide is still wett, you will dislokate it while penetrating. 2.: the glue has a low velocity and doesn't flow that good through the needle. If you stop pumping it cools down and gets hard instantly. 3.: You need to make another hole or the air can't escape and therefor the glue can't enter or will flow out again. 4.: If the Rawhide and the glue has dried, you need a lot of force. you nearly can't even get it in. 5.: The needle is cut in an angle in order to make it sharper, but that also means you need to enter into the object deeper then you think in order to get the actual hole to the depth you need. When the bubble is only small, you will hit the wood, bevore that happens. So you need to sting from the side in the perfect angle. you only got like a 10 degree range and have to work through way more rawhide by doing that. I still use the needle+syring if I got a bubble in a place where I couldn't hide a cut. Like on the back of the replicas of the Schongauer Paveses, where no basecoat was applied. Thanks for the question though. I am planning on making a video about crafting one of those Paveses and mayby will adress those problems then :)
Great video and work! I really appreciate dedication to getting as close to original materials as possible. I'd love to see more projects and even videos focusing purely on materials and techniques you use
very good! For the ridges you could make a little board or thin material where you cut out the cross-section of the ridge. Then you can drag it along over the rough ridge
Was thinking the same thing, a simple V-notch in a piece of left over wood stock would do the trick, no need to be super accurate with the piping bottle. Now I'm not a shieldmaker but using a template is nothing new.
@@Pottan23 you need to be able to bend it in more then one direktion though. The middle ridge would/could be possible, but not the ones left and right with so many angle change; uffff. nearly impossible, but for sure more time consuming then the gesso method.
@@TheShieldery i missed that info😀 . Really though stuff what you used for the ridges. Amazing knowledge back in the day. You make awesome stuff. Very interesting Keep it up!!
Wunderschön! Das einzige Problem: Man kann eine Goldoberfläche nie so schön filmen wie man sie mit eigenen Augen sieht!!! Das Schild ist viel schöner als im Video. Könnte an den Reflexen im Gold liegen, die sich ändern, wenn man den Kopf oder das Schild bewegt. In der echten Welt kann ICH mit dem Schild "interagieren", im Video nicht.
woodbendig for shield building happened, but wasn't that common. Especially if you need to do a singel piece for the specific armor of a customer, caus you would have to make a mold just for that. Why go through the trouble of sculpting a mold and then bendig the wood in a lot of paces into it, when you just could carve the shield directly? :)))
@@TheShieldery Making a mold for shield like that sounds like a low extra cost xD But I can have wrong feel about durability of bendet shield, I have no idea how stronger (or if it would be stronger) it would be than sculpted.
When working with the filler material, have you tried using card scrapers that are used in instrument making they come with various curves and are surprisingly useful. I think they would be useful for shaping those ridges as well as scraping around the edges
Personally i think a better technique then the plastic bottles for applying the ridges in the white paste that looks like clay is to go all the way and treat it like clay. Roll sausages of it, paint the area they need to be with water, then apply the sausage on the place you want, press them in place and shape them with your fingers as you did. Once it has the rough shape, use the clay with the wettest consistency as you had it, and streak down the sides to fill holes and shape it further with the sponge technique. I feel this will give you way more control early on, and allow for less mess to fix later on. As a pastry baker, that is how i make marzipan and chocolate ganache shapes on cakes.
Good Sir, talk about being born in the wrong time. You are a master craftsman. These are beautiful beyond words well done. I have only one little thing to pick on and that's that you didn't show the the backside and how you finished it.
Lovely project and commentary. I'm curious, this is the way every Targe was made at the time? Just wondering if they might have had some early form of ply, or thin planks then steam bent into shape, which I would imagine has better overall structural strength. Just a thought. Either way this is really nice.
Thanks! :) There where different ways for building a Targe, the largest difference between the one I made in the video and the majority which actually got used for fighting or Tournament was, that the ridges where larger and carved out of the wooden core. A lot of times Fabrik was used for instead of Rawhide, which made the stringing way easyer. We got some plywood heater and viking shields, but I haven't seen a plywood Targe bevore. They glued differnet wooden parts together, which not necessarily where plankish , but I don't think they where bend afterwards. It's kind of sad that I can't comment a picture XD . But there was a very good Tournament targe from 1553 ananlysis which showes 10 layers of wood above eacht other, from different wooden types (softwood and hardwood !!!) , connected with wooden nails. I think the planks of the layers where only slightly bend one after another in order to fit the one beneath better, without the need or use of steam. Thank you for your curiosity! :))))
The dust guard is an awsome idea, didn't know such thing existed! I tried the syring once, but to penetrate rawhide isn't that easy. I use it to add skin glue under the rawhide in the crevises of the backside of paveses, if it deforms to much. But for those quite evenly stringed areas a small cut is easyer.
We all make the choices we feel most comfortable with on our projects, and you always do great work... but using an angle grinder while refusing to use modern glues will never not be hilarious to me. Once again, great work!
Thanks! A glue is a material, a tool is a tool. So if I want to make a replika with authentic materials, I also only use the authentic glues. I also want to sell those shields you know. If I also would only use authentic tools, I'd have to double the price, or go bellow 6€/h . And In the End it would look the same.
Really interesting topic!! I will recommend to use more and brighter lights sources... especially when you're "cooking" something! Your viewers will certainly appreciate more all those "satisfying" moments!!
A way to solve your perspective problem would be to buy a cheap projector and line up the image of the original and project it onto the blank shield. The image would distort in the same way as the original giving you a perfect replication of the design that you can just pencil over.
The problem is placing the projector/shield correctly and make sure that the shield doesn't moove while copying. Additionally I'd have to duck all the time in order to not stand between the projector and the shield. And it's also not as available like my current methode for people who also want to craft s shield like that. I think my methode is easyer, faster and cheaper to do :( .
the technique that I learned when I was at school (in Italy) involved the first two coats of plaster and lapin glue applied with a tapping movement, as if a woodpecker were pecking at the tree, to allow the mixture to enter the pores of the wood or of the skin.
I also heard of the tapping, but when I tried it I got a lot of those pore-bubbles. What kind of basecoat did you use? If it was also the original one with hide glue as binding agent, could it be that you thinned it down more? I got to go (water) 9:1 (hide glue) in order to make it resistent enough for a regular transport to events.
@@TheShieldery 60 gr lapin glue/ 500ml cold water ( the glue must be inflating in the cold water until it's soft) + bologna chalk until It absorbe. You May applied It with a short silk Brush, or a big round gilding Brush. Your Channel Is sublime and interesting!
@@stefanotrussi4312 Thanks! it was this brush, mayby 3 instead of 2,5 inches, but well www.kremer-pigmente.com/en/shop/brushes/flat-brushes-varnish-brushes/flat-brushes/85422125-flat-brush-bristles-1-strength-no-2-5-inch.html What kind of brush would you recommend for that task? What's lapin glue? is it the same, as rabbit glue? google translate is not my friend in this case XD
@@TheShieldery let's leave your Instagram contact and I'll make a video for you tomorrow and post it to you. however, lapin glue is rabbit glue (lapin in French). if you don't have a sizing brush (assiette) take any one and cut the bristles to 2 cm, to make it stiff. However, a round brush is preferable. also regarding the ribs you used a lot of skill but I would have put a hemp rope underneath to create a frame and then covered it with glue and plaster. I await your contact and I will send you a video. good night friend.
Hey there! Love what you are doing. I believe the pronunciation of the G in Gesso is the same as the J in Justice. I hope one day to learn your language. You taught me that pressing your thumbs is your equivalent to our crossing our fingers. 😊
Yes, I also said Skin glue, instead of the correct therm hide glue XD. Those are the moments when im edditing and questioning the english capabilities of myself 2 manths ago XD
@@TheShieldery I'm almost two years into spanish, just starting french and I still think in english first. The important part is whether you can be understood. I understand how amazing your reproductions are I can infer from any questionable verbiage. Like I said, you're teaching more than just techniques. Keep up the amazing work.
Hi! Amazing video! I might be wrong but hide glues, fish glues, bone glues casein glues are composed of collagen, glue made out of flour contains gluten... But it seems that the word glue comes from gluten and the word collagen comes from kolla in greek, meaning glue... Do you have any clue?
Hi and thank you :) Animal glue, like Bone, skin and fish glue are adhesives that are created by prolonged boiling of animal connective tissue in a process called rendering. Hese protein colloid glues are formed through hydrolysis of the collagen from skins, bones, tendons, and other tissues, similar to gelatin. The word collagen itself derives from Greek κόλλα (kolla), meaning 'glue'. These proteins form a molecular bond with the glued object. Conventionally, keratin glues, while made from animal parts like horns and hooves, are not considered animal glues as they are not collagen glues. In German they are knowen as Glutein-Leime, mayby I made a minor translation mistake and should have called them Geltin-glue instead of Glutein glue? Casein actually is a family of related phosphoproteins and usually get's extracted out of curd and the large difference to the animal glues is that it's water resistent. I don't want to spam you now, so I'd advide you to take a look at the wikipedia artikle about that, it's really interesting :) .
Thanks a lot man! That helps and explains a lot! It sounded weird, but I am french living and reenacting in Czech republic... So yeah... I'm bound not to have the best vocabulary in this kind of detailed topic ... The quality of the filming and editing of the video is really good by the way!
for the vast majority of shields soft hardwood was used, the only major exception are Paveses. But yes, this was also most likely a parade shield, because we don't so traces of weaponry impact. Dankeschön! :)
The Customer / friend btw is Thomas Weinhold. He got an Awsome collection of medieval weapons, shields and armors. You can look him up on Facebook on his name. I am sure he will post some awsome pictures of the Targe in approx two weeks.
This channel is criminally underrated
I could watch this over and over again for the rest of my life! He's such a lively teacher! J wonder where he learned so much about shield building. You don't make a shield. You build one!
I love channels that don’t have a ton of subscribers, once they get huge, they’re playing the algorithm game. I do wish he gets the same compensation as the giant ones.
Agreed
@@WinstonCorneilius 100% - very few channels stay original once they get 250k subs...
@@piccalillipit9211 noted! :) I still got like 10-15 shield types and construction ways to make a video about. I got to be careful not to produce myself into a corner in which noone watches a video if it isn't about a shield. I got to do other, (mayby) faster producable and longer lasting topics, too. The medieval part will stay over time and as much of the replica crafting as possible. I'm not sure wether I should explore the medieval/LARP/Wildcamping more. I like it and see a lot of potential crafting wise, but no Idea wether it hits the curiousity of my (new) audience.
*MY MAIN TAKEAWAY FROM THIS* is how amazing skin glue is, it is so versatile and from working with old furniture I know how strong it is
"You can nearly call it an art"
But this is exactyl what is is, my skilled friend :).
A craftsman and an artist you are.
This is really an art my friend
Ausgezeichnet! I know I'm commenting on an older post, but your work is truly outstanding! Hands-on reconstruction of an important but neglected aspect of medieval weaponry. Thank you, and please keep posting!
Thanks! Watching, reacting and commenting on older posts makes youtube to keep them alive and suggesting them, making them an evergreen. Please continue doing so good Sir! :)
Happy that RUclips recommend thsi amazing channel =)
I had no idea that a shield that shape would’ve been constructed like that. I always assumed that it would’ve been steamed and bent, not carved from blocks. Beautiful work and educational!
Small tip, use an oil bath instead of a water bath when double boiling and your temp will be more even. There are some other advantages to oil over water.
Your videos and shields are incredible!
I can't believe you have a YT channel about making shields lol but I am glad I found it.
Thanks! I do other medieval related stuff too though :)
This is such a great video, as are your other replicas. There's a portion of me that wishes that some museums would commission you to make some of these so guests could interact with the history more, feel how heavy or light the objects would be.
That would be awesome! There was a castle in Ireland I visited (sorry, forgot where/which…) that had a bunch of replica costumes and weaponry to hold. It was a lot of fun. I’m also reminded of the Viking museum in Dublin, which had a lot of interactive parts.
I’d love to see more scaled down replicas in museums for children to interact with- museums are often aimed at either adults or children, with little set up to encourage them to explore/learn together.
A friend of mine in Crimes, her brother had the best job in the world before the war. He made exhibits for the museums, so one week he would be making a perfect replica of a shield like this, the next week a display case, the week after a "strong box" in cross-section.
anything that visitors got their hands on in a museum - he had to design and make it
It's beautiful! And the guilding, wow! Also, I was thinking, if you make a bag of sand the size of an average shield, you can put the shield on the bag and it will shape and support while you paint and do all the things so it won't wobble.
wowwwww GREATEST TALENT 🏆👑👏👍🎥🍾
Listen, I'm not trying to tell you what to do but a medieval-accurate version of the Hylian shield from The Legend of Zelda would probably get you so many views, and you definitely have the know-how (or the knoff-hoff lol) and nerdy dedication to pull it off beautifully! (And nobody's done it on RUclips from what I can tell!)
Of course this madman did the most German thing possible and went above and beyond making not one but TWO insanely difficult and intricate shields.
This is high art
Du weißt ja, was Bob Ross immer sagte: „We don’t make mistakes here, just happy little accidents“. Sehr schön gemacht.
When tuning the rawhide surface you might try a shoemaker’s skiving knife.
I made wooden bows with rawhide backing in the past. I used a foam/sponge paint roller to apply the hide and remove the bubbles. Worked like a charm. Elastic bandages and thumb tacks work great to keep slippery rawhide in place around odd shapes.
21:00 we just call it a sauce bottle (usually filled with tomato sauce). considering how thick it is, cutting the nozzle further down may help (the same way you use a caulking gun)
Such shields are psychological weapons. If you faced a man holding it you'd feel shame to put the slightest dent on it. Destroying it should be considered a criminal offense.
it works in both ways. you dont want to cover yourself with such a shield because it could end up badly damaged
Just watched two videos of you making a shield. And it's phenomenal. That RUclips still harbors such gems. Keep up the great shields!
NICELY DONE , HAVE A GOOD WEEK AND GOD BLESS AMEN.
Thank you for the video, I wish more people could see your work.
Best sheild making video I've seen. God bless
"If it looks like a map of Anno, it's correct"; Instantly subscribed!
Absolutely stunning piece(s). I liked the part about moving the reference around to contend with the curved surface distortion. Very similar to the challenges of representing the curved surface of the Earth in the form of a map, but in reverse. Great work.
Terrific video, learing the many different skills required to complete the historicaly correct copy takes some staying power. Incredibley beautiful shield, respect
Very nice video! I love that I came to the same conclusion as you on how to apply rawhide and the gesso even if we did never meet or talk, I take as a proof that we had a good interpretation on the process 😁
Imagine doing it with the original tools too. It will probably take much much longer
Thanks for your other comment!
yes, indeed it would take longer. And I'm also selling those, so I'd either have to double the price, or work for less then 6 €/h XD Only for it to look nearly the same at the end XD
Thank you for the response. Keep up the good work.
Als angehender Holzrestaurator ist es ein absoluter Traum die alten Techniken wiedererweckt zu erleben. Ein großartiges Video und tolles Projekt!
OK STUPID
this was so amazing to watch!!!! ❤❤❤❤ hope you get back soon too upload more videos! thanks🎉
Fantastisch! Alleine sich all dieses Wissen anzueignen, und dann auch noch umsetzen zu können. Ich bewundere deine Geduld und deine Englischkenntnisse ;-) Ein Tipp: Nimm statt der Flasche eine Spritztüte oder Plastiktüte. Mehrere dünnere Schichten könnten auch das Reissen reduzieren. Ein wenig mehr Ausleuchtung hier und da...perfekt! ❤
Vielen Dank für das Kompliment!
Eine Spritztüte funktioneirt leider nicht :( . Da sag ich bei min 21:00 was dazu. Piping bag bedeutet btw. Spritzbeutel; musste ich googlen XD
Das sind wirklich Kunstwerke, die du da erschaffst, Wundervoll.
Hi supernice project! But by the way, Zinnober ist nicht giftig, das Quecksilber ist sehr fest am Schwefel gebunden und nachdem man es geschluckt hat wird es einfach wieder ausgeschieden. Das einzige was man allerdings nicht machen sollte, ist es zu erhitzen.
Stumbled across this channel and as someone who worked in art restoration, I can't stop watching😮 ❤
Truly an Artisan!!
Best video so far on this channel! I enjoyed each and every single second of it and really appreciate your art! Thank you 🙏
ENDLICH EIN NEUES VIDEO! :D
Wie jedes Mal herausragende Arbeit. Freue mich immer wenn du frischen Content raushaust - genau das ist, was ich auf RUclips sehen will!
what a beautiful piece of work! a tip for squeezing the thicker gesso - you can reload an old plastic caulk tube and use a caulking gun, should be pretty easy. very easy to put it back in hot water if it gets too stiff, and no lid to pop off. also, i think some cabinet scrapers would be very useful tools to have.
Thanks a lot :)) !
the plastic caulk tubes sound like a nice idea to try, but I am afraid it would be to difficult to control the outflow, caus the consistency changes every second. But I am quite curious and allready added a revilling plastic caulk tube to my amazon shopping cart.
I allready got some small scrapers, but to be honest a real eye-opener for me was a set of Drawknifes for like 20€ . You can really go into detail and even work on very small crevices with them. They are also good to work with, when you got only one hand, what makes a huge difference when you need the other one to keep the piece in place. I only had one hand left to handle the edge grinder for like 90 minutes in the End of carving XDDDDDDDD.
And no, I got no and neither inted to buy a OSHA-handbock for my Workbench.
Outstanding dude! I know it's not traditional, but a hypodermic needle and syringe would help deal with the air bubbles. It creates an almost invisible puncture, and you can draw the air out, rather cutting the surface or having to push the bubble to an edge. Top level craftsmanship buddy!
Thank you! I actually have tryed that allredy, but there are some problems:
1.: If you try to use the needle when the rawhide is still wett, you will dislokate it while penetrating.
2.: the glue has a low velocity and doesn't flow that good through the needle. If you stop pumping it cools down and gets hard instantly.
3.: You need to make another hole or the air can't escape and therefor the glue can't enter or will flow out again.
4.: If the Rawhide and the glue has dried, you need a lot of force. you nearly can't even get it in.
5.: The needle is cut in an angle in order to make it sharper, but that also means you need to enter into the object deeper then you think in order to get the actual hole to the depth you need. When the bubble is only small, you will hit the wood, bevore that happens. So you need to sting from the side in the perfect angle. you only got like a 10 degree range and have to work through way more rawhide by doing that.
I still use the needle+syring if I got a bubble in a place where I couldn't hide a cut. Like on the back of the replicas of the Schongauer Paveses, where no basecoat was applied.
Thanks for the question though. I am planning on making a video about crafting one of those Paveses and mayby will adress those problems then :)
Great video and work!
I really appreciate dedication to getting as close to original materials as possible. I'd love to see more projects and even videos focusing purely on materials and techniques you use
very good!
For the ridges you could make a little board or thin material where you cut out the cross-section of the ridge. Then you can drag it along over the rough ridge
Thank You! :)
Yes, I do something similar on another type of Targe, but it wasn't done that way in the Wallace-Collections shield.
Was thinking the same thing, a simple V-notch in a piece of left over wood stock would do the trick, no need to be super accurate with the piping bottle. Now I'm not a shieldmaker but using a template is nothing new.
@@Pottan23 you need to be able to bend it in more then one direktion though. The middle ridge would/could be possible, but not the ones left and right with so many angle change; uffff. nearly impossible, but for sure more time consuming then the gesso method.
@@TheShieldery can't see what is so impossible about a v-notch in a thin (
@@TheShieldery i missed that info😀 . Really though stuff what you used for the ridges. Amazing knowledge back in the day. You make awesome stuff. Very interesting Keep it up!!
AMAZING!!
I just discovered this channel and can't stop watching it. Amazing work.
You are very brave. I'd have pre-drilled holes for the bits to be hammered in.
Thank you, but I have to decline the honore. I pre drilled but didn't include it in the video.
Ja Servus! RUclips recommended your channel to me. That means you're favoured by the algorythm, Kollege!
That was a really lovely project and video! Well done!
Saw the thumbnail and was like... Dope floormats...🧐
this is art
Genial 🤩🤩
i like how you describe this as "its almost art" bro, it is art, you are an artist. also the shield looks beautiful. amazing video
No joke, I thought at first that this was a fancy looking car floor mat. Cool stuff, though.
😂😂😂
Thanks 🍻 !
incredible
The Ridges segment was intense
Wunderschön! Das einzige Problem: Man kann eine Goldoberfläche nie so schön filmen wie man sie mit eigenen Augen sieht!!! Das Schild ist viel schöner als im Video. Könnte an den Reflexen im Gold liegen, die sich ändern, wenn man den Kopf oder das Schild bewegt. In der echten Welt kann ICH mit dem Schild "interagieren", im Video nicht.
I've tried to watch this video twice now and twice I've fallenj asleep half way through my I will get all the way through on my third attempt
Great work as always! You have inspired me to try my hand at making another shield!
So inspiring to watch your work come together. Truly a magical journey.
awesome work, unfathomably cool, you are just a gigachad
Brilliant video- this was really fun to watch.
I thought that this wood will be bended, not glued and sculpted. Amazing work.
woodbendig for shield building happened, but wasn't that common. Especially if you need to do a singel piece for the specific armor of a customer, caus you would have to make a mold just for that. Why go through the trouble of sculpting a mold and then bendig the wood in a lot of paces into it, when you just could carve the shield directly? :)))
@@TheShieldery Making a mold for shield like that sounds like a low extra cost xD But I can have wrong feel about durability of bendet shield, I have no idea how stronger (or if it would be stronger) it would be than sculpted.
I could literally watch this for hours and hours ♥️ great work! Keep it up
Love the channel. Can't wait to see more ❤
When working with the filler material, have you tried using card scrapers that are used in instrument making they come with various curves and are surprisingly useful. I think they would be useful for shaping those ridges as well as scraping around the edges
I got those, haven't tried that though. I think it would work, but would be less effective then using the wet sponge.
Unfassbar schön geworden!
Personally i think a better technique then the plastic bottles for applying the ridges in the white paste that looks like clay is to go all the way and treat it like clay. Roll sausages of it, paint the area they need to be with water, then apply the sausage on the place you want, press them in place and shape them with your fingers as you did. Once it has the rough shape, use the clay with the wettest consistency as you had it, and streak down the sides to fill holes and shape it further with the sponge technique. I feel this will give you way more control early on, and allow for less mess to fix later on. As a pastry baker, that is how i make marzipan and chocolate ganache shapes on cakes.
OK. Do you have a source for the White Paste? Got to stay authentic...
Good Sir, talk about being born in the wrong time.
You are a master craftsman.
These are beautiful beyond words well done.
I have only one little thing to pick on and that's that you didn't show the the backside and how you finished it.
Thanks! :)
Dang! yeah, that would have added an interesting shot for the revel.
amazing!
Dang, man, that's incredible work!!
Awesome work!
Lovely project and commentary. I'm curious, this is the way every Targe was made at the time? Just wondering if they might have had some early form of ply, or thin planks then steam bent into shape, which I would imagine has better overall structural strength. Just a thought. Either way this is really nice.
Thanks! :)
There where different ways for building a Targe, the largest difference between the one I made in the video and the majority which actually got used for fighting or Tournament was, that the ridges where larger and carved out of the wooden core. A lot of times Fabrik was used for instead of Rawhide, which made the stringing way easyer. We got some plywood heater and viking shields, but I haven't seen a plywood Targe bevore. They glued differnet wooden parts together, which not necessarily where plankish , but I don't think they where bend afterwards.
It's kind of sad that I can't comment a picture XD . But there was a very good Tournament targe from 1553 ananlysis which showes 10 layers of wood above eacht other, from different wooden types (softwood and hardwood !!!) , connected with wooden nails. I think the planks of the layers where only slightly bend one after another in order to fit the one beneath better, without the need or use of steam.
Thank you for your curiosity! :))))
You need a dust guard for your angle grinder
And another tip for the air holes, I would use a syringe
The dust guard is an awsome idea, didn't know such thing existed!
I tried the syring once, but to penetrate rawhide isn't that easy. I use it to add skin glue under the rawhide in the crevises of the backside of paveses, if it deforms to much. But for those quite evenly stringed areas a small cut is easyer.
We all make the choices we feel most comfortable with on our projects, and you always do great work... but using an angle grinder while refusing to use modern glues will never not be hilarious to me. Once again, great work!
Thanks!
A glue is a material, a tool is a tool. So if I want to make a replika with authentic materials, I also only use the authentic glues.
I also want to sell those shields you know. If I also would only use authentic tools, I'd have to double the price, or go bellow 6€/h . And In the End it would look the same.
Really interesting topic!! I will recommend to use more and brighter lights sources... especially when you're "cooking" something! Your viewers will certainly appreciate more all those "satisfying" moments!!
Du kannst dich mit den Alten Meistern messen ,hut ab 👍
A way to solve your perspective problem would be to buy a cheap projector and line up the image of the original and project it onto the blank shield. The image would distort in the same way as the original giving you a perfect replication of the design that you can just pencil over.
The problem is placing the projector/shield correctly and make sure that the shield doesn't moove while copying. Additionally I'd have to duck all the time in order to not stand between the projector and the shield. And it's also not as available like my current methode for people who also want to craft s shield like that. I think my methode is easyer, faster and cheaper to do :( .
Mega genial, ganz ganz tolle Arbeit! 👌
Sehr froh, dich in meiner Startseite gefunden zu haben ❤
amazing job!
Wow good job and real hardwork..and how you clean all that dust
great video!
Great video! For future videos, in english hide glue is the accurate term.
the technique that I learned when I was at school (in Italy) involved the first two coats of plaster and lapin glue applied with a tapping movement, as if a woodpecker were pecking at the tree, to allow the mixture to enter the pores of the wood or of the skin.
I also heard of the tapping, but when I tried it I got a lot of those pore-bubbles. What kind of basecoat did you use? If it was also the original one with hide glue as binding agent, could it be that you thinned it down more? I got to go (water) 9:1 (hide glue) in order to make it resistent enough for a regular transport to events.
@@TheShieldery 60 gr lapin glue/ 500ml cold water ( the glue must be inflating in the cold water until it's soft) + bologna chalk until It absorbe.
You May applied It with a short silk Brush, or a big round gilding Brush.
Your Channel Is sublime and interesting!
@@stefanotrussi4312
Thanks! it was this brush, mayby 3 instead of 2,5 inches, but well www.kremer-pigmente.com/en/shop/brushes/flat-brushes-varnish-brushes/flat-brushes/85422125-flat-brush-bristles-1-strength-no-2-5-inch.html
What kind of brush would you recommend for that task?
What's lapin glue? is it the same, as rabbit glue? google translate is not my friend in this case XD
@@TheShieldery let's leave your Instagram contact and I'll make a video for you tomorrow and post it to you. however, lapin glue is rabbit glue (lapin in French). if you don't have a sizing brush (assiette) take any one and cut the bristles to 2 cm, to make it stiff. However, a round brush is preferable. also regarding the ribs you used a lot of skill but I would have put a hemp rope underneath to create a frame and then covered it with glue and plaster. I await your contact and I will send you a video. good night friend.
@@stefanotrussi4312 instagram.com/andreschilderey/
CRAZY
Hey there! Love what you are doing. I believe the pronunciation of the G in Gesso is the same as the J in Justice. I hope one day to learn your language. You taught me that pressing your thumbs is your equivalent to our crossing our fingers. 😊
Yes, I also said Skin glue, instead of the correct therm hide glue XD. Those are the moments when im edditing and questioning the english capabilities of myself 2 manths ago XD
@@TheShieldery I'm almost two years into spanish, just starting french and I still think in english first. The important part is whether you can be understood. I understand how amazing your reproductions are I can infer from any questionable verbiage. Like I said, you're teaching more than just techniques. Keep up the amazing work.
Einfach heftig!!!
I wonder if a cheap vertically mounted projector would help with your perspective issue?
Yes it would, but setting it up would Take more time, then it would Safe in the end.
Absolutely stunning work 😊
OKAY OKAY RUclips! I WILL WATCH IT!
I know that feeling; Never thought it could happen wiht one of my owen videos though. Hopefully it was not a disappointment then. :)
@@TheShieldery
It was actually extremely interesting and cool. Watches some of your older videos too. Will be keeping an eye.
You're really talented.
I thought he targe was a sort of small round shield used in Scotland?
Thats the targeT 🍻
Hi! Amazing video! I might be wrong but hide glues, fish glues, bone glues casein glues are composed of collagen, glue made out of flour contains gluten...
But it seems that the word glue comes from gluten and the word collagen comes from kolla in greek, meaning glue...
Do you have any clue?
Hi and thank you :)
Animal glue, like Bone, skin and fish glue are adhesives that are created by prolonged boiling of animal connective tissue in a process called rendering.
Hese protein colloid glues are formed through hydrolysis of the collagen from skins, bones, tendons, and other tissues, similar to gelatin. The word collagen itself derives from Greek κόλλα (kolla), meaning 'glue'. These proteins form a molecular bond with the glued object. Conventionally, keratin glues, while made from animal parts like horns and hooves, are not considered animal glues as they are not collagen glues.
In German they are knowen as Glutein-Leime, mayby I made a minor translation mistake and should have called them Geltin-glue instead of Glutein glue?
Casein actually is a family of related phosphoproteins and usually get's extracted out of curd and the large difference to the animal glues is that it's water resistent. I don't want to spam you now, so I'd advide you to take a look at the wikipedia artikle about that, it's really interesting :) .
Thanks a lot man! That helps and explains a lot! It sounded weird, but I am french living and reenacting in Czech republic... So yeah... I'm bound not to have the best vocabulary in this kind of detailed topic ... The quality of the filming and editing of the video is really good by the way!
i 100% thought this was a guilded car mad. like for the floor under the seat so it doesnt get dirty in the winter
XD you are the second one to comment that XD Mayby I should have choosen the 3/4 camera angle for the Thumbnail XDD
wouldnt poppler be way to soft? or is this anyways just a parade-shield? Schöne arbeit. =]
for the vast majority of shields soft hardwood was used, the only major exception are Paveses. But yes, this was also most likely a parade shield, because we don't so traces of weaponry impact.
Dankeschön! :)
@@TheShieldery Danke für die schnelle und informative Antwort.
"Tahchee"? Wasn't that a character from happy days? 😂
Tunk the point with this shield is to confuse an attacker, by hiding it's profiles
Or by reflecting so much sunlight with the gold, that the enemy gets blinded XD
Abgefahrene Arbeit. Was wiegen denn die Schnuckelchen jetzt am Ende?
Habs noch nciht gewogen und die farbe ist gerade noch ein bischen feucht. So vom Gefühl her würde ich 2,5 kg schätzen :)
Vacuum chambers take care of trapped air.