I find that if something doesn't tighten up fully (or bottoms out) and it's related to suspension or steering - then it's fairly safe to say that it's _meant_ to be loose to allow full and free movement when it's assembled, I'd exercise caution before going to town putting things in vices. The second screwdriver (with issue 10 IIRC) is larger than the first screwdriver and I don't believe that it was intended to be used as a replacement for the first one - it won't work properly with the smaller screws (e.g. AP) because it'll never get a good grip, stick to the first (smaller) driver for those and use the second (larger) driver for the larger screw heads. I think this is the reason a lot of people are mushing their screws...
step 8 for me was a nightmare the link would not fit into the disc brake gap. Link end was about 2mm too wide, or brake gap was too small, either way i had to file the bastard down so it would fit.
A quick tip. If you have a screw that's too tight to drive home fully, just take it out, add a smear of Vaseline to the thread and try again. It should go tight with little effort.
I got issues 11-15 today and that first "Link (12-H)" was a pain to screw into it's Bracket (12-I) and then screwing that into the main frame was even worse. Later on, I realized Deagostini's Millenium Falcon model came with a screw hole borer tool and that worked wonders and I got the thing to screw in nice and secure. Then the magnet to the right hand wheel popped out of the right-hand brake disk while I was doing this build stage. Going to have to superglue that sucker in now.
I waited 2 months for this issue to arrive after getting 13 ahead of it and I can't even assemble it because I'm missing the spring (12-D) and a link (12-H), I had already called for a replacement issue because I waited a month for the issue and now gotta wait for that replacement to actually continue my build
I found that upgrading to a decent screwdriver instead of the one supplied definitely helped with the screws ..Still managed to scratch my finger though while building this part :(
Main problem was the provided screwdrivers. Forgot I had a set of Stanley screwdrivers in the toolbox. If these don't work I'm ordering a few Snap-On screwdrivers...
I have all this to come! Ahhh lol i haven't uploaded yet as my parts still not here yet, i hate the screws on this model, It makes you sweat every time you are trying to screw something in! I have my own better fitting screwdriver i will be using for now though. That helps a great deal. :-)
Hey I'm just putting my issue together and have noticed the radius arm is identical to the one in issue 14 where as they should be mirror opposites shouldn't they. They both have the recess hole on the same side.
I've found the screwdrivers that eaglemoss have provided haven't been great. I started using some heavier duty ones I already had and haven't had any real problems since I started using them. If I'm honest I'm amazed at how well it is going together. For something this precision engineered and produced in the numbers it is being produced in its actually coming together very well
Hay bud just started this bulid recently..... I just finished issue 6, and have found your videos,, was wondering what kind of table you are using for your hobby table??????
I didn't have to much trouble with the screws, did waste a couple of BM ones getting a nice thread. My gripe is that the springs are a bit too hard, especially the front ones. May replace them with aftermarket springs for RC cars - which are about the same size and have better give.. Annoying though.
There is no need to put the track rod in a vice, the screw only needs to go in so far to hold it place and then the rubber should catch it and hold in place.
A great alternative to a vice is forceps. You wrap the part in something like kitchen towels to protect it then clamp it with the forceps - gives you plenty to hold on to. The strength of the grip can be increased further by using a second pair at right angles - gives you a better grip than a vice while putting less stress on the component.. Allows you to put screws into really tiny difficult parts. You can get cheap forceps from places like Ebay - good enough for model making.
Step 3 is utterly impossible as far I’m concerned, so this piece of crap is going in the bin. After all the trouble I had with the aston Martin i should of known better than to buy this. A waste of money as far as I’m concerned. Thanks for nothing eaglemoss.
Hi. Can anyone help. I can't seem to fit the bottom HM screw through the part that looks like a small bone as it doesn't fit in the gap. Not technical I am aware but it's frustrating. Also the top HM
First try a different screwdriver that’s not the eagle moss ones and of that doesn’t work just try all the different screws that look similar I used a different screw for my left one
hi wayne awesome videos just like to ask a question would i be able to subcribe from issue 12 because been buying from newsagents but would rather subscribe was wondering if you can subscribe from issue 12 and when they sent them do they use royal mail or different courier many thanks for reading my comment keep up the awesome work
Hi Wayne, It's Wayne. just wondered if you received the book Untold Tales and Alternative Timelines in your delivery? I did, but I didn't request it from Eaglemoss they just took the £8.99 from me and sent it to me off there own back.
Just tried using the new GM screws that came with this issue on the front wheel and it worked a treat. I think they are slightly smaller in length. You should give it a try if you have any spare.
Hi Wayne you need to use another screw driver instead of Eaglemoss ones and use a spear screw to clean out the holes before you fix the part to the chassis i found it a lot easier to fix part to the chassis it dont take to long to do them and it make it more easier everyone is making this look very head to do crap it eeasy my 7 year old son can do better then everyone
I find that if something doesn't tighten up fully (or bottoms out) and it's related to suspension or steering - then it's fairly safe to say that it's _meant_ to be loose to allow full and free movement when it's assembled, I'd exercise caution before going to town putting things in vices.
The second screwdriver (with issue 10 IIRC) is larger than the first screwdriver and I don't believe that it was intended to be used as a replacement for the first one - it won't work properly with the smaller screws (e.g. AP) because it'll never get a good grip, stick to the first (smaller) driver for those and use the second (larger) driver for the larger screw heads. I think this is the reason a lot of people are mushing their screws...
step 8 for me was a nightmare the link would not fit into the disc brake gap. Link end was about 2mm too wide, or brake gap was too small, either way i had to file the bastard down so it would fit.
Same here, then took bloody forever to get the whole lot to align properly, and same on the opposite side. Nightmare!
Same here, had to file it down to fit.
same here smh. Tooks forever and I snapped a piece. whatever, I made it work but it was a pain in the ass
Screws: AP, BP, CP, EP, FP, HP, IP, LP, AM, BM, CM, DM, GM, HM, JM, KM. For 16 different sizes of screws.
A quick tip. If you have a screw that's too tight to drive home fully, just take it out, add a smear of Vaseline to the thread and try again. It should go tight with little effort.
I got issues 11-15 today and that first "Link (12-H)" was a pain to screw into it's Bracket (12-I) and then screwing that into the main frame was even worse. Later on, I realized Deagostini's Millenium Falcon model came with a screw hole borer tool and that worked wonders and I got the thing to screw in nice and secure. Then the magnet to the right hand wheel popped out of the right-hand brake disk while I was doing this build stage. Going to have to superglue that sucker in now.
With the track rod I put a DM screw then took it out then put a BM screw back in it & went all the way in & won't move
I waited 2 months for this issue to arrive after getting 13 ahead of it and I can't even assemble it because I'm missing the spring (12-D) and a link (12-H), I had already called for a replacement issue because I waited a month for the issue and now gotta wait for that replacement to actually continue my build
Not good
I bought a whole bag of silver washers for the bit with step 2 & put 2 washers with the EM screw & so much better & tighter
I found that upgrading to a decent screwdriver instead of the one supplied definitely helped with the screws ..Still managed to scratch my finger though while building this part :(
I think that is going to become a necessity in future
I jammed my finger TWICE but just a small flesh wound on one of the early issue but was no problem it healed yh I think it's the screws or driver
That's supposed to have movement, its the suspension.
Main problem was the provided screwdrivers. Forgot I had a set of Stanley screwdrivers in the toolbox. If these don't work I'm ordering a few Snap-On screwdrivers...
Yep. I have gone through a few scrwewdrivers in this build so far.
I have all this to come! Ahhh lol i haven't uploaded yet as my parts still not here yet, i hate the screws on this model, It makes you sweat every time you are trying to screw something in! I have my own better fitting screwdriver i will be using for now though. That helps a great deal. :-)
Hey I'm just putting my issue together and have noticed the radius arm is identical to the one in issue 14 where as they should be mirror opposites shouldn't they. They both have the recess hole on the same side.
I've found the screwdrivers that eaglemoss have provided haven't been great. I started using some heavier duty ones I already had and haven't had any real problems since I started using them.
If I'm honest I'm amazed at how well it is going together. For something this precision engineered and produced in the numbers it is being produced in its actually coming together very well
What brand plz send me a link of the drivers that would be a huge help
When I was doing step 5, the holes on either side didn't align, so, I tried to adjust it and, it snapped, so, got to request a replacement.
Hay bud just started this bulid recently..... I just finished issue 6, and have found your videos,, was wondering what kind of table you are using for your hobby table??????
Just a regular pasting table. Its one of the more sturdy ones though.
I didn't have to much trouble with the screws, did waste a couple of BM ones getting a nice thread. My gripe is that the springs are a bit too hard, especially the front ones. May replace them with aftermarket springs for RC cars - which are about the same size and have better give.. Annoying though.
Lucien86 that could be cool. I got the grinder on to the screws in the end and took a mm off. Nice and tight now 👍
Does your suspension still work? The screws on the side are meant to allow the arm to move!
gratedcarrot yep I'll try to demonstrate it in issue 14
I'm guessing the total weight of the model might be a bit heavy for RC car shocks.
Lucien86 I heard the finished model is 8.5kg
There is no need to put the track rod in a vice, the screw only needs to go in so far to hold it place and then the rubber should catch it and hold in place.
Micko842 right you are. The screw didn't go any further in so I left it 👍
A great alternative to a vice is forceps. You wrap the part in something like kitchen towels to protect it then clamp it with the forceps - gives you plenty to hold on to. The strength of the grip can be increased further by using a second pair at right angles - gives you a better grip than a vice while putting less stress on the component.. Allows you to put screws into really tiny difficult parts. You can get cheap forceps from places like Ebay - good enough for model making.
Step 3 is utterly impossible as far I’m concerned, so this piece of crap is going in the bin. After all the trouble I had with the aston Martin i should of known better than to buy this. A waste of money as far as I’m concerned. Thanks for nothing eaglemoss.
My first screwdriver ding from this issue as well
Screws too long or bore holes to short me thinks. lol
Hi. Can anyone help. I can't seem to fit the bottom HM screw through the part that looks like a small bone as it doesn't fit in the gap. Not technical I am aware but it's frustrating. Also the top HM
Only goes half way in
First try a different screwdriver that’s not the eagle moss ones and of that doesn’t work just try all the different screws that look similar I used a different screw for my left one
why not file the lengh of the screw down a little
Funny enough. Can't remember what issue. They send out a screw bore. They don't announce it. It was just an addition to the pack.
Ah the track rod, the easy bit at the end, or so we thought ........
It looked like we had a little hope there at the end but it was taken away from us so cruelly lol
yeah! ya estoy armando el halcon milenario saludos desde México
hi wayne awesome videos just like to ask a question would i be able to subcribe from issue 12 because been buying from newsagents but would rather subscribe was wondering if you can subscribe from issue 12 and when they sent them do they use royal mail or different courier many thanks for reading my comment keep up the awesome work
Hi Wayne, It's Wayne. just wondered if you received the book Untold Tales and Alternative Timelines in your delivery? I did, but I didn't request it from Eaglemoss they just took the £8.99 from me and sent it to me off there own back.
Yep. See the the issue video. It will be up shortly.
I've ended up building the Jaguar now.
Steven Holt I saw that but it not my cup of tea ☕️
another great video I've still to receive these issues sorted my front wheel wobble out I've used washers lol hows r2 coming along
Just tried using the new GM screws that came with this issue on the front wheel and it worked a treat. I think they are slightly smaller in length. You should give it a try if you have any spare.
World of Wayne yea I'll give that a go and see if it's just a pesky screw never thought of trying a different one lol
Hi Wayne you need to use another screw driver instead of Eaglemoss ones and use a spear screw to clean out the holes before you fix the part to the chassis i found it a lot easier to fix part to the chassis it dont take to long to do them and it make it more easier everyone is making this look very head to do crap it eeasy my 7 year old son can do better then everyone
Gary Knight to be honest the thing should fit properly in the first place. Never had issue like this on the Falcon and it does worry me a bit.
I have a big cut down the side of my finger from this issue
I think we could start a gallery of injuries from this issue lol
Me too, sliced straight down it thanks to this issue
*laughs in mechanic*