Yes This guy is correct. how to get going an how to fix. I had this intermittent problems for months on my first gen 2016 CRF-1000 Africa Twin and then fixed it. , It was identified as the Shift Control Motor or Ratio control motor. It is located on the left side just below the tool kit holder. It is a black cylinder of about 3" (7cm) in diameter with a black nipple sticking out about 1cm (1/2") in diameter. Again on the left side of the bike below where your knee placement is. If you get stuck on the roadside, give the black nipple on the motor a good sharp tap or two with a small hammer or a tool from your tool kit, and the bike should start right up. It simply jolts the motor to help seat the brushes on the arbor. Do this immediately after you turn on the key and you hear a clicking sound coming from the right side of the bike. Regardless of what gear you are stuck in or the flashing (---) symbol, it should shift back into Neutral N and you are good to go. also putting the bike on the center stand and rotating the wheel back and forth helps it, if your first attempt fails. If this does work, then you have also identified the problem. The problem is that this electric motor, like many electric motors, build up carbon on the arbor and prevent the brushes making a good contact with the arbor. for a permanent fix The unit is very easy to remove from the bike with 2 screws on the cover plate and 3 screws on the motor, all pretty easy to get at with the supplied allen keys. remove the wiring harness plug first located under the first cover you remove. Also very easy. take the motor apart on your bench or desk. only two screws. And pull the center of the motor out of the casing against its magnetic force. Clean the arbor with 400 grit emmery cloth sand paper, until all the black built up carbon on the Arbor is basically gone. then clean all the dust and grit away before re assembly. You can even spray and wipe it down with WD40. Also carefully clean the brushes with the same sand paper or a fine file, but not too much.They are very delicate and made primarily of graphite. They will re seat themselves in any case. It only takes about 30 min to do this and 15 min to take in and out of the bike. Take careful note of where the rubber washer goes and how the motor comes apart. Clean all the black carbon out of the motor cylinder. Grease the shaft end that goes back into the casing and seats in the nipple housing. I did this and it now shifts as good as new. when putting the motor back in the bike, oil the o-ring and carefully wriggle the motor back in position until the metal of the motor makes good contact with the metal of the engine. Make sure it is seated properly before tightening down the screws or you will pinch and damage the O-ring and it wont seal and will be off camber with the spline shaft. you can't buy parts for this motor like bruches, so if they are damaged beyond repair, the Shitf Control Motor part no, is 31300-MJP-G81 priced at about AU$450.00. a BLABBC states. Here is a link on how to service the Control morot ruclips.net/video/wqZRok8Puag/видео.html
Dank Nick. Toch jammer dat mij vorige zomer (mijn AT werd vanuit Duitsland naar jouw werkplaats gerepatrieerd om hetzelfde bovenstaande euvel) niet dezelfde optie (schoonmaken RCM ipv uit elkaar halen gehele DCT) werd aangeboden. Sta nu regelmatig weer stil met een DCT die vastzit.
You my friend, are a lifesaver! I had my bike in the shop at a certified Honda Dealer for 4 months. I literally just picked it up this past Saturday. That dealership wanted to change the wiring harness and they had already changed the oil pressure sensor, oil filer, oil, R&R clutch 2 EOP sensor to the tune of $555.53, which did absolutely nothing. They claimed to have contacted the main Honda tech support in which Honda tech support recommended that they change the wiring harness, which would've run me another $1405.84(not including labor). I told the dealer I was going to pick the bike up and explore other options, I'm thankful I did. So yesterday, I came across your video and thought I'd give it a shot and it worked!!!!!! I removed the RCM and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and reinstalled it and then drove the bike for 2 straight hours in 105° heat, totaling 60 miles of stop and go. The bike rode like new, no issue at all. Previously, it would only go about 30 to 40 minutes before it would fail and start operating erratically. It would jump out of gear into a false neutral, with zero throttle, sometimes stall, wouldn't restart until I let it sit for several minutes, etc. When I rode it yesterday, none of that happened for 2 solid hours for the first time since April. Thank you so much for your video Sir. You helped me tremendously!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You saved me 900 Eur..had the same issue..opened the Ration Control Motor, cleaned it and everything works perfekt now!!!! Greetings from Germany.
UPDATE; Problem solved: a small piece in the "Ratio Control Motor" was stuck (31300-MJP-G81). Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor. The dealer fixed it by disassembling it without ordering a new piece (which would cost around 500€). So if you have the same issue, it is most likely this part. No electronic issue, no dct-reset or whatsoever. Good luck
I had the same issue at around 80000km. The electric motor to change the gears was worn out. Honda wanted 800$ for a replacement. But an electrician did refurbish it (new coal pads I think). That was in Santiago, Chile.
@@sammychiu7285 I dont have a video, but if you are a bit skilled, you can do it yourself, carefully. Just take it out, clean it from (internal) dust and put everything back together.
Thank you very much ,, blabbc ,, for the tip! Looks like you saved me 450 euros. The symptoms were the same for me. (DCT stalled only in very warm condition, not in cold) There were several other fault codes in the fault log that contained the electric motor. After attempting the faults, again producing the symptoms described, only an electric motor fault was visible. Honda Service disassembled the e-engine, had some carbon brush debris, and cleaned it up. There is also a plain bearing that has been re-greased with heat resistant grease. (the e-engine itself was in perfect condition, the CRF1000 is 52,000km) Today it was hot enough and the malfunction was completely gone !! Thanks to your comment, I was able to get to the end in just 4 days, everything works fine :-) The whole repair including removal and installation is one hour max. Thanks again :-)
I heard that doing a DCT reset will fix this problem. Anything with a microchip can be "reset to manufacturer specifications". If this doesn't work then contact the dealer. DCT RESET Start the engine. Select N. Stop the engine. While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow 'engine' symbol goes out on the dash, then release D. Press in fast sequence: DDNDN. On the dash, the letters D and S should appear together. Restart engine, allow it to idle.
happened to my 2016 a few days ago, stuck on 4th. while on the center stand i turned the rear wheel forward and back. heard clicking sound and got it to go to Neutral. a day later, this time was stuck on 6th. pushed the bike and went back to Neutral. yesterday, it did it again. not taking any more chances and taking it to the dealer tomorrow.
I've been researching Honda DCT owners' problems. All of them seem to a little different; clutch bolt needs tightened, sensor misaligned, battery voltage off a little, too much oil, ratio control motor, not properly warmed up, left handed rider, cloudy day, etc. DCT is wonderfully designed, but its complexity seems to be undermining reliability.
@@daskalogiannhs and guys, let's try not to puzzle all informations: If you experience something similar like in my video, first shake the bike, then cool down the Ratio Control Motor with water (small black tube on the left side of motor, where your left knee is usually), then disassemble that small Motor and fix it (90€), or replace that piece (+500€). Believe me, all other options (oil viscosity, battery, sensor misaligned, clutch bolt etc) are less probable. Problem solved for THAT issue, and I'm (unfortunately) not the only one. Therefore: before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, check the Ratio Control Motor. Cheers
@@jurepecnik9054 Dragi Jure, the principle of the DCT-technique is the same, but it is NOT a general problem, neither for Africa Twins nor for NC750. Problems may occur in any technical environnement. Don't be afraid, enjoy your ride!
Just had this happen to me. There is a video on RUclips that shows how to clean ratio motor. 10,000 more miles with no problems. Aliexpress has the motor for $60 USD. Honda wants $250!
@@sailingwanderer153 My dct was on a NC700XD, not the Africa twin. I searched Aliexpress and the NC700 motor shows up but not sure if it is direct replacement. I never installed mine. I took apart and cleaned my old motor and still going strong 15,000 miles later. I just searched using Honda Part Number.
same happened to my nc750x. outside was about 35 C and i drove like 6 hours under the sun. it stucked on 6th gear, i could down to 2th gear by closing and opening engine again and again but needed to wait like half hour for from 2th to N. I always loved DCT but i was thinking to change it with manuel in the rest of the road.
Had the same problem today. Gear stays in 6th. It happened out of the blue in Germany not hot (Africa Twin 2016 49.000 km just serviced including filters of gearbox). Friend of mine had it too. Its seems this problem is not a single case.
I have had this put me on the side of the road a couple of times while using Sport mode. Turn the key off then back on, while it is still clicking roll the bike backwards and it shifted back into neutral, back on the road in 2 minutes the last time.
No nothing. The point is that the DCT does not shift back into N (neutral), but it tries. The clicking comes from the "Ratio Control Motor", which didn't work properly when it got too hot (it tries to shift back, but something is stuck). It was a small piece that was stuck in that Ratio Control Motor (black tube on the left side). Disassembling and cleaning solved (which takes 20 minutes, easy). But the whole troubleshooting took something like a week.
man - in this situation you must moving a bike a little bit to make geas move a litlle - it can stuck in gear simmilar in manual - and it is impossible to change gear till you move bike a little back and forward and then try to chance gears manually. BTW DCT is a nice gearbox- i love mine in NC 700 - make 50000 km with DCT .
thanx mike, but as already said, this didn't help in my case. Nevertheless the problem is solved: before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, let the Ratio Control Motor get checked by your dealer. Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor.
i had the same issue and the guy is completly right, the ratio control motor is the responsible of this issue not the battery not moving the bike will help moving the bike will help sometimes but not everytime and to solve the root cause is clean the motor from debris and rob it gently with sand paper thank you @blabbc for sharing this with us appreciat it
Problem solved: before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, check the Ratio Control Motor. Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor.
Guys if thats happend try one thing do just sit on the bike do 3-4 steps to move the bike and will go to the N key need to be on and you need to hear that click noise
if this happens to somebody else, I would suggest to first disassemble that electric motor. It helped in my case, no replacement needed (90€ instead of over 500€), Cheers
i had the same issue and i plan to fix it myself and i wonder if removing the ratio control motor will cause the oil to come out ?? in another word does changing it require emptying oil first ??
I have this problem very often now in the summer when is constantly above 30°C .. When Im driving sometimes suddenly the number which shows which gear is will dissappear and will not change modes or gears while riding. In my case i think is getting stuck in 3rd gear. However when this happens I pull on the side of the road then im stopping the engine for 1 second and when I turn the ignition back on I just reverse few inches while its making this clicking noise and its back to normal.
it happend to me in the middle of nowhere i felt lonely, a terrible felling i even have problems remembring what happened exactly, like a dream after 40 min it worked but it was very bad experience the exact same problem but with nc 750 x dct
its the inside mechanics of the small "Ratio Control Motor", Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor. It shifts the gears of DCT, normally, but in this case, it was disfonctioning because of inside abrasion. The tube had to be disassembled and cleaned.
@blabbc previous weeknd same issue happened to my 2016 DCT AfricaTwin. Somehow I managed to shift the gear to N. But today same problem happened again and I've spent 45 minutes to get back on the road. Could we Reassemble and clean the DCT ratio control unit by ourselves?
I've had mine in 48deg. C temps in the top end of Australia with zero problems....must be just a bad sensor or similar.... they've been very reliable so.... 87,963km's on mine. can you post an update after the dealer fix's it?
Dear MrKdr500, I hope you found my post about the problem solved. First shake the bike, then check the Ratio Control Motor ! So before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, check the Ratio Control Motor.
@@onlinemaster dont check it if it works (never touch it to "prevent" or something). Only in case of trouble, disassemble the unit (better ask your dealer) and make sure no small pieces are stuck or with abrasives or dirty etc. In my case this was enough to fix it. In other cases a new unit was ordered (quite expensive, I think around 600€). Good luck.
Well, dear Will, if it was so easy, I wouldn't post the whole thing here. Believe me I tried many things, including rocking heavily the bike while ignition is on. If it helps, even better. If not, there is a great chance that its because of the Ratio Control Motor. Cheers
Will, I agree with you 100%. Had it happen to me quite a few times on my 2016 when it was relatively new. Solved every time by rocking and recycling the ignition key. Made a point, ever since, to always shut down in neutral. Thousands of miles later, never a problem anymore. This is not to discount the OP’s claim. Some owners had a problem with the, aforementioned, shift motor. However, I believe, most can solve it by rocking the bike fore and aft and, avoid it altogether, by shutting down in neutral. Cheers
@@sammychiu7285 Unfortunately, I don't. But, all you need to do is just push the bike forward and back for a few centimetres with the key in the on position to unload the transmission. Then recycle the key again... Hope it helps
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes This guy is correct. how to get going an how to fix. I had this intermittent problems for months on my first gen 2016 CRF-1000 Africa Twin and then fixed it. , It was identified as the Shift Control Motor or Ratio control motor. It is located on the left side just below the tool kit holder. It is a black cylinder of about 3" (7cm) in diameter with a black nipple sticking out about 1cm (1/2") in diameter. Again on the left side of the bike below where your knee placement is. If you get stuck on the roadside, give the black nipple on the motor a good sharp tap or two with a small hammer or a tool from your tool kit, and the bike should start right up. It simply jolts the motor to help seat the brushes on the arbor. Do this immediately after you turn on the key and you hear a clicking sound coming from the right side of the bike. Regardless of what gear you are stuck in or the flashing (---) symbol, it should shift back into Neutral N and you are good to go. also putting the bike on the center stand and rotating the wheel back and forth helps it, if your first attempt fails. If this does work, then you have also identified the problem. The problem is that this electric motor, like many electric motors, build up carbon on the arbor and prevent the brushes making a good contact with the arbor. for a permanent fix The unit is very easy to remove from the bike with 2 screws on the cover plate and 3 screws on the motor, all pretty easy to get at with the supplied allen keys. remove the wiring harness plug first located under the first cover you remove. Also very easy. take the motor apart on your bench or desk. only two screws. And pull the center of the motor out of the casing against its magnetic force. Clean the arbor with 400 grit emmery cloth sand paper, until all the black built up carbon on the Arbor is basically gone. then clean all the dust and grit away before re assembly. You can even spray and wipe it down with WD40. Also carefully clean the brushes with the same sand paper or a fine file, but not too much.They are very delicate and made primarily of graphite. They will re seat themselves in any case. It only takes about 30 min to do this and 15 min to take in and out of the bike. Take careful note of where the rubber washer goes and how the motor comes apart. Clean all the black carbon out of the motor cylinder. Grease the shaft end that goes back into the casing and seats in the nipple housing. I did this and it now shifts as good as new. when putting the motor back in the bike, oil the o-ring and carefully wriggle the motor back in position until the metal of the motor makes good contact with the metal of the engine. Make sure it is seated properly before tightening down the screws or you will pinch and damage the O-ring and it wont seal and will be off camber with the spline shaft. you can't buy parts for this motor like bruches, so if they are damaged beyond repair, the Shitf Control Motor part no, is 31300-MJP-G81 priced at about AU$450.00. a BLABBC states. Here is a link on how to service the Control morot ruclips.net/video/wqZRok8Puag/видео.html
Dank Nick. Toch jammer dat mij vorige zomer (mijn AT werd vanuit Duitsland naar jouw werkplaats gerepatrieerd om hetzelfde bovenstaande euvel) niet dezelfde optie (schoonmaken RCM ipv uit elkaar halen gehele DCT) werd aangeboden. Sta nu regelmatig weer stil met een DCT die vastzit.
You my friend, are a lifesaver! I had my bike in the shop at a certified Honda Dealer for 4 months. I literally just picked it up this past Saturday. That dealership wanted to change the wiring harness and they had already changed the oil pressure sensor, oil filer, oil, R&R clutch 2 EOP sensor to the tune of $555.53, which did absolutely nothing. They claimed to have contacted the main Honda tech support in which Honda tech support recommended that they change the wiring harness, which would've run me another $1405.84(not including labor). I told the dealer I was going to pick the bike up and explore other options, I'm thankful I did. So yesterday, I came across your video and thought I'd give it a shot and it worked!!!!!! I removed the RCM and cleaned it with electrical cleaner and reinstalled it and then drove the bike for 2 straight hours in 105° heat, totaling 60 miles of stop and go. The bike rode like new, no issue at all. Previously, it would only go about 30 to 40 minutes before it would fail and start operating erratically. It would jump out of gear into a false neutral, with zero throttle, sometimes stall, wouldn't restart until I let it sit for several minutes, etc. When I rode it yesterday, none of that happened for 2 solid hours for the first time since April. Thank you so much for your video Sir. You helped me tremendously!
Great. Yes I had problems for months also until the problem was finally diagnosed. Glad to be of help
What is the RCM?
Next time try rocking the bike front and back. You get this too on manual bikes. It helps to move the bike so the shifter can shift down.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You saved me 900 Eur..had the same issue..opened the Ration Control Motor, cleaned it and everything works perfekt now!!!! Greetings from Germany.
Happy I could help. Gute Fahrt! :-)
UPDATE; Problem solved: a small piece in the "Ratio Control Motor" was stuck (31300-MJP-G81). Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor. The dealer fixed it by disassembling it without ordering a new piece (which would cost around 500€). So if you have the same issue, it is most likely this part. No electronic issue, no dct-reset or whatsoever. Good luck
My bike will not go into Drive .
I had the same issue at around 80000km. The electric motor to change the gears was worn out. Honda wanted 800$ for a replacement. But an electrician did refurbish it (new coal pads I think). That was in Santiago, Chile.
hi, do you have a video how to clean this "Ratio Control Motor" thanks
@@sammychiu7285 I dont have a video, but if you are a bit skilled, you can do it yourself, carefully. Just take it out, clean it from (internal) dust and put everything back together.
@@blabbc thanks for sharing this information
Nice to know there is an easy fix for it. My dct was doing this in second gear. Yet I have not encountered this malfunction after changing the battery
Thank you very much ,, blabbc ,, for the tip! Looks like you saved me 450 euros. The symptoms were the same for me.
(DCT stalled only in very warm condition, not in cold)
There were several other fault codes in the fault log that contained the electric motor. After attempting the faults, again producing the symptoms described, only an electric motor fault was visible. Honda Service disassembled the e-engine, had some carbon brush debris, and cleaned it up. There is also a plain bearing that has been re-greased with heat resistant grease. (the e-engine itself was in perfect condition, the CRF1000 is 52,000km) Today it was hot enough and the malfunction was completely gone !!
Thanks to your comment, I was able to get to the end in just 4 days, everything works fine :-) The whole repair including removal and installation is one hour max. Thanks again :-)
happy to hear that it was useful. Enjoy
For me, Stuck in 1st gear. Turn off, turn on and roll back until click is heard. In N, back to normal. Thanks great vid!
I heard that doing a DCT reset will fix this problem. Anything with a microchip can be "reset to manufacturer specifications". If this doesn't work then contact the dealer.
DCT RESET
Start the engine.
Select N.
Stop the engine.
While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow 'engine' symbol goes out on the dash, then release D.
Press in fast sequence: DDNDN.
On the dash, the letters D and S should appear together.
Restart engine, allow it to idle.
Dear William, in this case, DCT reset will NOT fix it . It was a mechanical problem, the problem was fixed (read below).
Thanks
no, it doesn't fix, I made a reset days ago and I still have the same problem. It gots stuck in 3 ou 4 gear, whatever
I have a Integra 750 DCT
Its the fastest 45 minutes I’ve ever seen 😂 hope your bike is better now.
happened to my 2016 a few days ago, stuck on 4th.
while on the center stand i turned the rear wheel forward and back. heard clicking sound and got it to go to Neutral. a day later, this time was stuck on 6th. pushed the bike and went back to Neutral. yesterday, it did it again. not taking any more chances and taking it to the dealer tomorrow.
I've been researching Honda DCT owners' problems. All of them seem to a little different; clutch bolt needs tightened, sensor misaligned, battery voltage off a little, too much oil, ratio control motor, not properly warmed up, left handed rider, cloudy day, etc.
DCT is wonderfully designed, but its complexity seems to be undermining reliability.
I think the problem will be solved with an oil with lower viscosity and a powerful Odyssey battery.
Ok !!!! If this happens to anyone, rock the bike while the ignition is on... that's it. DONE... it just cant mesh the gears .
@@daskalogiannhs and guys, let's try not to puzzle all informations: If you experience something similar like in my video, first shake the bike, then cool down the Ratio Control Motor with water (small black tube on the left side of motor, where your left knee is usually), then disassemble that small Motor and fix it (90€), or replace that piece (+500€). Believe me, all other options (oil viscosity, battery, sensor misaligned, clutch bolt etc) are less probable. Problem solved for THAT issue, and I'm (unfortunately) not the only one. Therefore: before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, check the Ratio Control Motor. Cheers
@@blabbc do you have any information maybe, is this ratio control motor also a problem in NC 750x bikes??
thank you :)
@@jurepecnik9054 Dragi Jure, the principle of the DCT-technique is the same, but it is NOT a general problem, neither for Africa Twins nor for NC750. Problems may occur in any technical environnement. Don't be afraid, enjoy your ride!
Ду маю если его попробовать катить вперед во время щелчков -то передачи сразу скинуться на нейтраль.
Just had this happen to me. There is a video on RUclips that shows how to clean ratio motor. 10,000 more miles with no problems. Aliexpress has the motor for $60 USD. Honda wants $250!
Where did you find the RMC on Aliexpress? I can't find it for the Africa Twin...
@@sailingwanderer153 My dct was on a NC700XD, not the Africa twin. I searched Aliexpress and the NC700 motor shows up but not sure if it is direct replacement. I never installed mine. I took apart and cleaned my old motor and still going strong 15,000 miles later. I just searched using Honda Part Number.
same happened to my nc750x. outside was about 35 C and i drove like 6 hours under the sun. it stucked on 6th gear, i could down to 2th gear by closing and opening engine again and again but needed to wait like half hour for from 2th to N. I always loved DCT but i was thinking to change it with manuel in the rest of the road.
I see many comments about RCM but I didn’t see it in this video. Did I miss something?
Had the same problem today. Gear stays in 6th. It happened out of the blue in Germany not hot (Africa Twin 2016 49.000 km just serviced including filters of gearbox). Friend of mine had it too. Its seems this problem is not a single case.
Good luck, the problem is solved here, I hope this was useful.
Cees Poot im having the same problem mine stucks on the 3rd gear on my Honda integra 750
dct 2014
I have had this put me on the side of the road a couple of times while using Sport mode. Turn the key off then back on, while it is still clicking roll the bike backwards and it shifted back into neutral, back on the road in 2 minutes the last time.
hi. @blabbc when you switched on the ignition, what else did you do as in the video i can hear a clicking sound, were you pressing the start button?
No nothing. The point is that the DCT does not shift back into N (neutral), but it tries. The clicking comes from the "Ratio Control Motor", which didn't work properly when it got too hot (it tries to shift back, but something is stuck). It was a small piece that was stuck in that Ratio Control Motor (black tube on the left side). Disassembling and cleaning solved (which takes 20 minutes, easy). But the whole troubleshooting took something like a week.
man - in this situation you must moving a bike a little bit to make geas move a litlle - it can stuck in gear simmilar in manual - and it is impossible to change gear till you move bike a little back and forward and then try to chance gears manually. BTW DCT is a nice gearbox- i love mine in NC 700 - make 50000 km with DCT .
thanx mike, but as already said, this didn't help in my case. Nevertheless the problem is solved: before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, let the Ratio Control Motor get checked by your dealer. Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor.
Hi Mikkei, did you face the problem i mentioned below?
thanks in advanvce
i had the same issue and the guy is completly right, the ratio control motor is the responsible of this issue not the battery not moving the bike will help
moving the bike will help sometimes but not everytime and to solve the root cause is clean the motor from debris and rob it gently with sand paper
thank you @blabbc for sharing this with us appreciat it
You must move the bike after start
I tried, but it didn't work. It only helped after 45 min (after cooling down). The dealer did a DCT-report and will change a sensor.
Problem solved: before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, check the Ratio Control Motor. Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor.
Hi blabbc, what do you mean by check the 31300-MJP-G81?. Do I need to deassemble the and clean the black pipe , thanks
It took me 5 seconds to figure out that moving the bike/wheel would help it shift. Took you. 5?
Guys if thats happend try one thing do just sit on the bike do 3-4 steps to move the bike and will go to the N key need to be on and you need to hear that click noise
Same problem in july after 24000 km.. yes the Problem is the electric motor 31300-mpj-g81 dct... i change with a new all ok.. 😉
if this happens to somebody else, I would suggest to first disassemble that electric motor. It helped in my case, no replacement needed (90€ instead of over 500€), Cheers
Massimo Mazzotti what was the cost of the motor ?
@@SikumFernando i buy here : www.partzilla.com/product/honda/31300-MJP-G81
@@mazzottimassimo thanx
i had the same issue and i plan to fix it myself and i wonder if removing the ratio control motor will cause the oil to come out ??
in another word does changing it require emptying oil first ??
I have this problem very often now in the summer when is constantly above 30°C .. When Im driving sometimes suddenly the number which shows which gear is will dissappear and will not change modes or gears while riding. In my case i think is getting stuck in 3rd gear. However when this happens I pull on the side of the road then im stopping the engine for 1 second and when I turn the ignition back on I just reverse few inches while its making this clicking noise and its back to normal.
Hi Plamene, this might be the same problem (read below). The "Ratio Control Motor"
I try to imagine this fail, being alone in the middle of the desert.
it happend to me in the middle of nowhere
i felt lonely, a terrible felling
i even have problems remembring what happened exactly, like a dream
after 40 min it worked but it was very bad experience
the exact same problem but with nc 750 x dct
Here a video of the cleaning on a AT 1000 : ruclips.net/video/UVm02zxed3I/видео.html
YEAHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!
What was that clicking noise?
its the inside mechanics of the small "Ratio Control Motor", Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor. It shifts the gears of DCT, normally, but in this case, it was disfonctioning because of inside abrasion. The tube had to be disassembled and cleaned.
@blabbc previous weeknd same issue happened to my 2016 DCT AfricaTwin. Somehow I managed to shift the gear to N. But today same problem happened again and I've spent 45 minutes to get back on the road. Could we Reassemble and clean the DCT ratio control unit by ourselves?
I've had mine in 48deg. C temps in the top end of Australia with zero problems....must be just a bad sensor or similar.... they've been very reliable so.... 87,963km's on mine. can you post an update after the dealer fix's it?
Ok !!!! If this happens to anyone, rock the bike while the ignition is on... that's it. DONE... it just cant mesh the gears .
Dear MrKdr500, I hope you found my post about the problem solved. First shake the bike, then check the Ratio Control Motor ! So before you change oil and all sensors and DCT reset or whatsoever, check the Ratio Control Motor.
@@blabbc how this component should be checked?
@@onlinemaster dont check it if it works (never touch it to "prevent" or something). Only in case of trouble, disassemble the unit (better ask your dealer) and make sure no small pieces are stuck or with abrasives or dirty etc. In my case this was enough to fix it. In other cases a new unit was ordered (quite expensive, I think around 600€). Good luck.
Shift pin needs replacement
Roll the bike backwards while it's doing this
Your supposed to move the bike forward so I can go in gear because the gears get stuck
Meme probleme sur ma 2019 hier
So whats the update on this?
read below: Problem solved: "Ratio Control Motor" was stuck (31300-MJP-G81). Its the black "tube" on the left side outstanding of the motor.
My bike wil not leave Natural
Same problem with mine. Won't leave neutral. Any advice? Just happened to me.
Probably the button on the right (D - N) doesn't function, because of corrosion
Tu a roulé avec le moteur arrete. J'ai eu la même chose
My dct gets stuck when hot? After 5 mins it’s fine again? Any ideas???
keep reading this thread. Ratio Control Motor might be the reason. Problem solved.
Read this thread. My problem was solved. Cheers
Shame on Honda
Don’t buy a DCT ,lesson learned
Ok !!!! If this happens to anyone, rock the bike while the ignition is on... that's it. DONE... it just cant mesh the gears .
Well, dear Will, if it was so easy, I wouldn't post the whole thing here. Believe me I tried many things, including rocking heavily the bike while ignition is on. If it helps, even better. If not, there is a great chance that its because of the Ratio Control Motor. Cheers
Will, I agree with you 100%. Had it happen to me quite a few times on my 2016 when it was relatively new. Solved every time by rocking and recycling the ignition key. Made a point, ever since, to always shut down in neutral. Thousands of miles later, never a problem anymore. This is not to discount the OP’s claim. Some owners had a problem with the, aforementioned, shift motor. However, I believe, most can solve it by rocking the bike fore and aft and, avoid it altogether, by shutting down in neutral. Cheers
@@asirrus2 do you have video how to preform by rocking the bike fore and aft to shift back to neutral, thanks
@@sammychiu7285 Unfortunately, I don't. But, all you need to do is just push the bike forward and back for a few centimetres with the key in the on position to unload the transmission. Then recycle the key again...
Hope it helps
@@asirrus2 thanks for sharing this information
DDNDN