Thanks bud! I was about to start on my truck and replace my lowers but I think I'll go ahead and order the uppers too before I tear it down. Might as well if I'm gonna be there anyway. Great video, thanks for the instructions!
This is the most thorough video I've seen on this subject. I did see one other video that shows how to essentially uncrimp and press out the old ball joint. But the new joint they used was pressed in and crimped by the press tool. I like this a lot better. Thank you for the video.
Outstanding - you just saved me $795 that he shop wanted to charge for the job. That did include an alignment which I will get done after replacing the ball joints. Amazon had the moog replacements for half the price of auto zone.
Did you actually need them? I was told the same thing but in further inspection it didn’t need it and they don’t want to do the free alignment which I’m thinking they just want to make money
Hey, great video. Just got whacked during my inspection over here near Scranton...so I'll be doing the same thing. Thanks for the good job showing how you did it.
Great video, and thorough details! Helped me decide to do this on my own. I took my 16 Suburban LTZ to get an alligment and was told i had a bad shock and lower ball joint on right side. And got priced for $2500. Yeah right. I order shocks from gmpartsstore and ball joints all for around $900.
Very good video sir . Thanks Im doing mine Thursday when i get all my parts and doing upper control arms from Rough County. New rotors and pads too and also new Rancho 9000xl struts .
Great video sir. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Not paying $825 for the shop to replace the lowers. Was it necessary to remove the tie rod ends, or could you have left them in place if you weren't replacing them? Thanks
is it not easier to remove the lower control arm and put it on a vice to press in and out the old ball joint or even take it to a machine shop to press in for $30.00? This way you avoid removing the rotor and front drive axles.
These vehicles are so clean and no rust. Man i been struggling with all my work in canada. They won't budge either. Using impact. So if u are from norther Canada just save time and go to a mechanice
Harbor freight also Carrie’s a tie rod popper tool that would save you some pounding a 1/2 drive cordless impact would be good for you saves me much work and time 👍
In my opinion it’s a lot easier just to buy control arms with ball joints already installed, There’s a whole lot less work, And they come with brand new bushings
why would you take off the tie rod? I leave mine on to be honest and just get the housing for the wheel bearing out of my way to do the ball joint work. Otherwise good job on it didn't see how it was different on control arms being aluminum until now because mine are steel or cast so interesting how some work might be the same on a lot of stuff.
@@johnkinkoff6510 Make sure you get the one for the Aluminum arm. They have a different spindle size from what I've read. The all aluminum knuckle has a different size I guess. Moog had warnings about this is for aluminum only.
@@ricksgiggle8852 I did it myself following this video. I did have to buy some of the equipment costing me around 200$, but I saved 300$ because the mechanic shop wanted to charge me 500$ for one lower ball joint. Now I'll be able to do all my future lower ball joints, and upper control arms in the future!
@@Cool-hand-hunting I bought a mechanical wrench set with over a 100 pieces, the Maddox Ball Joint Press kit from Harbor Freight Tools, a ball joint separator. That was all I bought. My father had most tools in his work shed. Honestly, next time I have to change out a lower ball joint on my truck; I will record it and make a RUclips video since this seems to be popular, and I want to help out the community.
Thanks for doing this video. I saved a lot of money doing this myself.
Thanks bud! I was about to start on my truck and replace my lowers but I think I'll go ahead and order the uppers too before I tear it down. Might as well if I'm gonna be there anyway. Great video, thanks for the instructions!
Which upper did you get? I just ordered rough country uppers and still waiting on a couple parts .
This is the most thorough video I've seen on this subject. I did see one other video that shows how to essentially uncrimp and press out the old ball joint. But the new joint they used was pressed in and crimped by the press tool. I like this a lot better. Thank you for the video.
Outstanding - you just saved me $795 that he shop wanted to charge for the job. That did include an alignment which I will get done after replacing the ball joints. Amazon had the moog replacements for half the price of auto zone.
Did you actually need them? I was told the same thing but in further inspection it didn’t need it and they don’t want to do the free alignment which I’m thinking they just want to make money
Hey, great video. Just got whacked during my inspection over here near Scranton...so I'll be doing the same thing. Thanks for the good job showing how you did it.
Good luck and be safe
Great video, and thorough details! Helped me decide to do this on my own. I took my 16 Suburban LTZ to get an alligment and was told i had a bad shock and lower ball joint on right side. And got priced for $2500. Yeah right. I order shocks from gmpartsstore and ball joints all for around $900.
Great job. I just ordered mine from A1 auto. The dealer doesn't sell the aluminum control arms no more.
Very good video sir . Thanks Im doing mine Thursday when i get all my parts and doing upper control arms from Rough County. New rotors and pads too and also new Rancho 9000xl struts .
Thanks for time to make this video.
18:20mins skip this step you just use a torch and knock or press them through. The factory tabs will still fall through without using a chisel.
Have you ever changed the bushings
Excellent job Sr 👍💪
Really enjoyed the video. I got a 2014 LTZ crew cab I got to do the same thing on both sides.
Awesome and helpful video brother .
Can you tell me about the ball press kit you used. Link or part numbers. I have a 2010 Silverado and I want to buy a kit that I know will work. Thanks
Great video sir. I appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Not paying $825 for the shop to replace the lowers. Was it necessary to remove the tie rod ends, or could you have left them in place if you weren't replacing them? Thanks
is it not easier to remove the lower control arm and put it on a vice to press in and out the old ball joint or even take it to a machine shop to press in for $30.00? This way you avoid removing the rotor and front drive axles.
mechanics are not cheap but good lord on that 2200 , Im a poor man so I do like you and fix things myself .
right😂, and besides money i don’t trust other people to work on my stuff
These vehicles are so clean and no rust. Man i been struggling with all my work in canada. They won't budge either. Using impact. So if u are from norther Canada just save time and go to a mechanice
Did you have any shaking before replacing?
Great video. Maybe it's just peeling paint or I'm just seeing stuff, but the bottom of that strut looked cracked. @18:10, I think.
Harbor freight also Carrie’s a tie rod popper tool that would save you some pounding a 1/2 drive cordless impact would be good for you saves me much work and time 👍
In my opinion it’s a lot easier just to buy control arms with ball joints already installed, There’s a whole lot less work, And they come with brand new bushings
Only issue is that the replacment control arm is a stamped steeled material and not aluminum that comes from factory.
@@edc120912 A1 auto has the aluminum ones!
@@tylerrockforte697 the bad thing is that the ones from A1 aren’t greasable. Otherwise I’d probably order them.
Nice video man thanks
why would you take off the tie rod? I leave mine on to be honest and just get the housing for the wheel bearing out of my way to do the ball joint work. Otherwise good job on it didn't see how it was different on control arms being aluminum until now because mine are steel or cast so interesting how some work might be the same on a lot of stuff.
I got the wrong Ball joints , they were for the steel swing arm, BE CAREFUL, Watson got it right!! Tom IN AZ
Nr de parts ??
Great video bro
What is the part number for lower balljoint?
I’m sorry I’m not sure, got it from advance auto
K500245 is the part number for the moog lower ball joint
@@johnkinkoff6510 Make sure you get the one for the Aluminum arm. They have a different spindle size from what I've read. The all aluminum knuckle has a different size I guess. Moog had warnings about this is for aluminum only.
For my 11, MOOG K6541 hopefully it's the right one, find out soon as I get old one removed. Mine is steel btw.
What mileage was on the truck
My 2014 needs new lowers at 151k miles
About 100k
Mine had 76,000 and failed for a sticker because it needs lowers
Is that what makes my truck squeak like a motel bed?
It sure does. Im doing one of these tomorrow for the same reason. Creaking, squeaking like an old barn door.
Most likely the torsion bar mounts. The rubber mounts are very easy to replace and they squeak like crazy when dried out.
Didn't have a pickle fork ?
You have to take into account that the 102k mileage is in Pennsylvania roads (all torn up}
Great Video. Thanks and gig 'em!
mucho bueno video...ball joints mucho sloppy
Wonderful video!
That's crazy..2200$😳😳
Israel Ramirez yup price gouging
$2200 for what?
What was the problem with the grease fitting? I’m going to my wife truck.
Part number?
I came here to attempt to do the same thing to my truck. I’ll leave an update. I’m not a mechanical guy at all 😅
update lol, i’m doing it thursday
So what happened???????
@@ricksgiggle8852 I did it myself following this video. I did have to buy some of the equipment costing me around 200$, but I saved 300$ because the mechanic shop wanted to charge me 500$ for one lower ball joint. Now I'll be able to do all my future lower ball joints, and upper control arms in the future!
@trash_god what equipment did you have to buy? Was it the special C-clamp that he was using?
@@Cool-hand-hunting I bought a mechanical wrench set with over a 100 pieces, the Maddox Ball Joint Press kit from Harbor Freight Tools, a ball joint separator. That was all I bought. My father had most tools in his work shed. Honestly, next time I have to change out a lower ball joint on my truck; I will record it and make a RUclips video since this seems to be popular, and I want to help out the community.
Crazy... just replaced UPPER ball joints on a 2002 avalanche.... 200k miles... rest is perfect...maybe because in in Tx...
You shouldn’t hit aluminum anything
shock is junk
Only mistake you made is using aftermarket ball joints, they wont last even half the miles the OE did
They last way longer than oem if you remember to grease them every oil change
I’ve had better luck with aftermarket than oem