Split Phase Solar Inverter Comparison
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- Simple All in ONE Inverters back to back comparison: SolArk, EG4, Sungold Power
Find More information for this project and others on my website: projectswithdave.com
EG4 6K Off-Grid Split Phase Inverter- 600EX-48HV: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6k-off...
Bluepower IP6048 (on sale now): sungoldpower.com/collections/...
Sol-Ark 15k - Limitless 15K-LV: www.currentconnected.com/prod...
Downloadable Comparison Charts and Links: drive.google.com/file/d/14Exa...
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Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
01:00 EG4 600EX-48HV Overview
04:31 Bluepower IP6048 Overview
10:42 Conclusion 
Хобби
If you have any long term usage Pros & Cons for these inverters, add to this comment thread Thanks!
Downloadable Comparison Charts and Links: drive.google.com/file/d/14ExaH6nr0msl0jAHa473k-83tn_CViu2/view?usp=sharing
EG4 6K Off-Grid Split Phase Inverter- 600EX-48HV: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6k-off-grid-inverter-6000ex-48hv/?ref=SALE
Bluepower IP6048 (on sale now): sungoldpower.com/collections/power-inverter/products/bluepower-ip6048-6000w-48v-hybrid-solar-inverter-ac-coupled-ip65?ref=Projects%20With%20Everyday%20Dave
Sol-Ark 15k - Limitless 15K-LV: www.currentconnected.com/product/sa-15k/?ref=pwd
god bless this guy
so much knowledge shared in 12 mins
Excellent general comparison. Your presentation style is excellent.
Great video. I have a smaller Sol-ark and quite often I find myself in wonder at its capabilities and reliability.
Thanks for posting your real world experience.
Very good overview of these units.
Unfortunately more units for those with deep pockets for most seniors we don't use 4 hundred dollars of power it's interesting that so many chanells say that a thousand watt inverter will power a fridge in power out situation then all say that a 2000 watt inverter won't power a fridge freezer and 80 watts of lights to power that much you need at least 6000 watts I'm sure that if I could find a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter that could be paired with a second unit for true north American 120 240.volts split phase power I can't believe that a unit that size wouldn't produce 60.00 dollars of power per month unless you are using electric hot water tank electric stove and an electric dryer I guess it'll take time it took 20 years or more to go from 32volt DC generator to 110 and then another 20 years before they brought out a 120 240.volts split phase generator hopefully it doesn't take as long to get 2000 or 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter that can be upgraded as finances allow
Hey, Dave
Just started watching your videos great content, new subscriber. Thanks Rob
I must say,
I find you the easiest to follow and understand even at a high technical level.
You do a fantastic job off getting the information across
What would you or others choose if you was off grid with no grid and limited solar, relying on a generator to recharge everything.
What would be a good inverter/charger for constant daily use (not as a backup) ????
Thanks for the feedback. There are a lot of options out there, but the most reliable would probably be Victron or Schneider. You can see my Victron system here: ruclips.net/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/видео.html
Recently installed a 21.25kW grid tied system without batteries on our property, but I do have a transfer switch with generator connection for critical loads. Our well pump is on the opposite side of our property from our main electrical panel and ground mount solar array so a long distance away.
I plan to add a 30x40 utility bldg (LED lighting and minimal loads none of which are continuous nor critical) adjacent to the well pump and install a separate off-grid solar system for this building with solar panels on the south facing side of the roof of the building. The pitch of the roof will roughly match my latitude (30 degrees). I was thinking about using the EG4 Low Frequency Split Phase Inverter with 3-4 48V batteries. I would then move the well pump to this system and for redundancy so the well pump always has power I would connect my existing system that is grid tied as the 120V input into the EG4 to charge the offgrid system batteries during periods of insufficient solar. As a side note, as mentioned above I have a transfer switch and generator connection to run critical services including the well pump on my grid tied system so I would be able to charge the batteries on the off grid system for the well pump if both the offgrid solar at the time was insufficient and the grid was not available.
Does this configuration make sense? Is there a better simpler way that I am missing?
Big information help. Thanks.
I would highly recommend buying as many batteries as you can afford all at once. Battery technology and trends are changing fast and you will not be able to get the same models in a year or more. Even though they may work, the integration and current sharing will be compromised. Buy way more batteries than you need…
Because the pricing changes over time I wonder about this thought. Lithium iron phosphate is much cheaper than it was even 4 years ago. I just paid half (maybe even a third) what I did then for twice as much capacity.
I tend to agree with both of you but for different scenarios. If you have a relatively tight budget and have to get a smaller 'all in one' get as many batteries as you can. If you are going higher end on the 'all in one' get enough batteries to operate it. The reason I say this is if you start on the small side, you will add another unit in time (and buy batteries (probably cheaper)). If you go with a Big unit, when your budget recovers and you are ready to upgrade, you might not need a bigger unit. That might be the time to buy a lot of good batteries and delegate the existing batteries to a separate small unit for a few dedicated circuits. I live in Georgia, and for me, dedicated circuits are the refrigerator and a couple of 10 amp 110v outlets. The outlets can run either small window unit ACs or space heaters based on season. I have a wood stove for heat and a gas stove for cooking. Keeping my food and a little 'creature comfort' for sleeping is a priority!
All in all, both theories are sound. You might just flip a coin!
Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John
This assertion is incorrect. Just buy a very capable master battery like the eg4LL and then buy dumb batteries at your own pace slaving them in parallel to the master, the prices have been coming down every year
I have had my eg4 going since September of last year so far it has worked great! Only thing I'm not a fan of is the high idle consumption. Otherwise good starter unit
Unfortunately, you have to spend quite a bit more to improve the idle consumption. Everything is a compromise somewhere. My Victron Multiplus II only uses 9 to 10W at idle. ( Mulitplus II www.currentconnected.com/product/pmp482305100/?ref=pwd )
I pla. On going with the EG4 for my solar needs in the future (I'm 18 months or so away from those plans). Great bang for the buck.
EG4 is a great value option. It all depends on your needs and goals. It takes a while to gather all the relevant specs for a good comparison. Hopefully this is helpful for people.
With my two solar arrays at 16kW using microinverts, I'd love to see more AC coupling... I've been thinking of setting up a Victron Quatro as a whole home power management system... not seeing a lot of videos on why not. I can't be off-grid, long winters northern climate, but can get enough summer production credits to be cost-neutral.
Grid tied can leave you susceptible to blackouts, even in daylight. You are also highly regulated connected to the grid. I was going to go grid tied, but in Colorado ALL work must be done with certified electricians and overseen by a master electrician, even the racking (ground mounted). Then I still have to pay a monthly interconnect fee. With a 16kw array I can charge up a nice battery pack that can last a few days if needed. Went with bifacial panels (fairly new option) so power will be generated even if one side is covered with snow, and will supplement with a couple of good quality wind generators (I have open space on my property)...kind of a pain but I am in control of what I do and don't need to hire an electrician every time I want to make the slightest adjustment to my system.
Inverters that have AC coupling don't work with just any grid tie system. You have to make sure there is compatibility first.
@@ProjectsWithDave using AP Systems micro-inverters YC-500 and QS-1 ... will need more research on compatibility.
Good comparison details, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks very informative 👍
Dave
Thanks for all the great information on solar. I just built a system with 36 used Silfab 380 panels from Santan solar and a adjustable racking system from Sinclair Designs and Engineering. At my location in Colorado the array will have 15 to 45 Degree differential from summer to winter solstice, with the adjustable rack, I will be able to take advantage of the sun angle. I’m wondering what you thoughts are on having an adjustable system.
Dave - what part of Colorado? We are moving to southern Colorado this year and I didn't think about about the adjustable rack option for the summer/winter solstice variables. Guess I need to look into that. I've read that some inverters might perform differently at higher elevations. We're going to be at approx 7200ft. Have you had any issues at higher altitudes? Thanks
awesome info and well explained
I look forward to your review/comments on the Schneider as it seems to be very powerful and also have very low (30 watt) idle consumption. It is not an all-in-one unit. On the lower end there is the Samlex 4842Sp split phase inverter/charger which also has low idle consumption.
Shneider & solark have actual UL listings for permitting, some others are just UL compliant, but not actually listed in the USA ... inspectors very well may catch this.
Yes, thanks for adding that detail.
I have the sungold one lasted just over a year. Worked great when it did but failed. I had the 10k unit
Think im going to victron for peace of mind
Thanks for sharing your experience . What was the failure point? Was it covered under warranty?
Dave, the new EG4-8KEXP-240 all in one is a pretty good value too. It is way better than the EG4 and competes with the Sol Ark.
Thanks, for the note. There are so many good options out now, I just covered these three because I had them on hand and they show the spectrum of options pretty well.
HOWdy P-W-E-D-D, ...
Thanks for the COMPARISON
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Thanks for a great review.
Do you happen to know why the minimum MPPT input voltages (120+) are so much higher than the DC minimum (low 40s for all 3 units)?
I don't know all the reasoning. For the MPPT if I had to guess, the DC/DC converter is designed to be most efficient in a certain voltage range and to limit current losses that voltage is going to be set as high as possible. On the battery side, the DC/AC inverter is designed to work in the 48V battery operating range. Different circuits for different purposes.
If you watch the voltage as the sun comes up, most charge controllers, including my solar 12 K, MIdnite Solar 250 will drag down as soon as they connect if the voltage is at 120VDC. It doesn’t do any good to sit there cycling off and on. That is why they wait until 120 is reached.
The "drag down" you mention is the MPPT seeking the maximum power point, it will never be at the open circuit voltage.
Those are called "Single Phase" inverters. Specifically "Single Phase, Three Wire". Split phase is a type of motor, but not a power system. I don't blame anyone for the misinformation as it has spread like wildfire. Manufacturers are even making the mistake. But, if even only a handful of people are made aware, then they slowly make others aware, eventually we can correct the error, eliminating the misinformation. Edison actually invented the three wire system, though of course his was DC. "No Phase" I suppose, LOL. The AC version we all know and use today is functionally equivalent.
You have made it easy to understand the options for split phase inverters, I'm looking to build a back up system to power my submersible well, plus ref. and freezer. It takes around 25 amps to start. Any suggestions.
Is 25A the surge load at startup? Is the pump 120V or 240V? You can look at the surge load limits in the specs to give you some idea of how likely it is to work. 25A*240V= 6,000W Low frequency inverters do better with large surge loads like your pump. Keep in mind all the combined loads you will be running at the same time the motor is starting up.
@@ProjectsWithDave Yes 25 amps at startup, 240V. So I will need at least a 6000 watt inverter, with as you said a min. of 2 48V 200 amp battries, correct. After the pump starts the amps drop down to 13 or less. Getting water has always been an issue in a grid down situation, we have deep wells, some over 300 ft. I can get by with 120v for everything else, just need a inverter that can produce 240V and 30 amps would be some to spare. Thanks for your help!
Low frequency inverters can handle a surge load above their rated continuous output, so the pump by itself would not necessarily require a 6,000W inverter.
@@t.d.harris1311 could be wrong but I suspect your pump controller has a start up capacitor that may overcome the need for 25A. Usually the yellow wire of the pump four wire string.
Great video
Thanks!
Hi Dave, How is your testing coming along IP6048 and SolarEdge HD inverter? I have a SolarEdge SE7600-US PV inverter and would like to AC couple with IP6048. Is it compatible and your thoughts? Thanks
I got delayed by winter weather. I plan to use an expansion on my main array to power the system, so I haven't tested it yet. Likely still several months out, sorry...
I would like to use my solar panel in the event of a power outage daytime in a grid tie? What should I be looking for?
Inverters like the Sungold inverter or the SolArk inverter in this video will work for that. Be sure to confirm with your inverter with your local inspector, some have restrictions to a limited list of models.
Great video. I want to power my house from solar with the grid as backup. I guess you would call that off grid with grid backup. What inverter would you recommend for that, I would like it to be IP65 rated if possible.
That's not a lot of information to go on, but in general the best value solution on the market right now is the EG4 18K: signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kpv-hybrid-inverter-all-in-one-solar-inverter-eg4-18kpv-12lv/?ref=pwd
You can find several solutions on my website: projectswithdave.com/inverters/
Thanks for the reply, I will check it out.
@@ProjectsWithDave
Perfect review
Thanks!
One thing to watch out for is whether or not the two MPPT inputs have independent MPPT, or if they just combine the inputs through one MPPT control.
Right, if they are not independent the inputs have to be completely matched.
I would like to see your test results for the Sungold unit. Keep up the good work.
I finally ran all the new lines for the array expansion, so I'm hooking up the SunGold inverter this week.
I have that SunGold unit. I turned it on for the first time day before yesterday. I am struggling to get it to operate how I envisioned. If you have any insight I would appreciate it.
Hello could you do an update on your bifacial solar panel output in the snow? They will benefit from reflected light
Still waiting for snow...
I’ll post my results if you post your results. I have 24, 475W Q Cells G10 panels to test, soon real soon. Just south of your border.
A friend of mine is installing Q Cell bifacial panels. I borrowed a couple to test back to back against my Canadian Solar Bifacial panels. I'll be posting those results soon.
in a tropical climate, is it recommended to install the Sol-Ark inverter outside?
If you are installing any inverter outside, I would recommend providing some shelter for it to keep it from direct sun and rain exposure.
Have you installed the Sungold? How did it workout?
I did. You can see the first look here: ruclips.net/video/IZjISqEWglU/видео.html
It has been running for a couple of months now with no issues. But it's hard to set up. The instructions aren't very good and connecting to it is a pain.
It connects earlier than my other inverters due to the high string voltage, but the idle loss is also higher.
@6:40 I really want to hear MORE and especially SEE this example
of pairing a GRID TIE inverter with an off grid ac coupled inverter
Can they REALLY allow a grid tie to operate with no ac grid?
Yes, under the right conditions and if the equipment is designed to work together. The "grid-tie" inverter will see the sine wave of the other inverter as "grid" and continue to operate. The inverter that is producing the sine wave can control the output of the grid-tie inverter using frequency shifting. The whole system has to be configured to work as an "island" off grid when the grid goes down.
I live in California and am building a net zero 4plex next year and including utilities in the tenant's rent. I am planning on doing the sol-ark 15k, a 20kw solar array, and a 30kw battery backup. This should run me about 30k in parts. I am not confident the 20kw solar array will be sufficient for a 4plex but the battery capacity should keep me off the grid most of the year. My roof is 38'x80' S-SW facing monoslope so I should be able to fit enough panels to run the whole neighborhood but the inverter is the bottleneck. I love the concept of the all-in-one inverter and am limited due to needing both UL listing and California approved listing. I'm planning to start with this setup and decide later if I need to add another inverter and array. Is there a more efficient way of covering the power of a 4plex that I might be missing?
Wow! I think my biggest concern with your proposal is the fact that there is no incentive for the people living in the 4plex to conserve energy. This system seems very difficult to size. You may find they use much more power than you expect. What if they plug in electric cars?
@@ProjectsWithDave I definitely agree Dave, they will be signing a "green living promissory note" that will allot each household 1000kwh a month and if they exceed it they will just be charged the market rate. I am going have a smart panel/breaker system to track each household and give them monthly reports. Everything has been designed from the ground up to reduce power consumption. Heat pump AC/dryer/water heater, LED everything, induction stove, convection oven. Electric car charging will be market rate power. It's definitely a lifestyle choice they will have to accept before moving in!
Ok, sounds like you have really thought this through. Are you able to reference others who have tried this model? Can you get their data? That would be very helpful, actual data is always better than projections.
@@ProjectsWithDave No data, just projections. Nobody is doing what we will be doing. We've also implemented some non-traditional building methods to significantly reduce construction time and cost, and eliminate thermal breaks and leakages. The project's goal is to be proof of concept for future mass application and pivot to single-family net zero homes under median home price. I tend to be more of a pioneer than an imitator. Even the city is confused and I am awaiting a meeting with the city zoning & planning commission. I know my electrician is also going to be annoyed having to do custom load calculations for meter sizing. I'm the only excited one!
I can relate to being the only excited one... 😄
Lets say i buy one a these bad boys and my grid doesnt offer split phase instead they offer 240 v one live and one neutral can they still work?
I'm not familiar with that configuration. There are European configured units that run single phase 240. Sounds like that is what you would be looking for.
Dave I would encourage you to point out that the Sol-Ark 15K inverter will output a maximum of 62.5 amps to charge and electric car (EV). This will charge a Tesla 3 in five hours for the small battery version (57.5 kWh) and the 75 kWh version in six hours. It would be faster but the Tesla 3 will only accept 11 kW of charge power. It will charge a Hyundai ioniq 5 long range battery (72.6 kWh battery) in approximately five hours. This is exceptionally fast for home charging. You also can charge an EV directly from the panels with the Sol-Ark 15K inverters and bypass the grid.
Connected to the grid, I think that the Sol-Ark can output a massive 275 Amps of power, or 275 amps x 240 v = 66,000 watts. Theoretically this can charge a Hyundai ionic 5 in a little over an hour if all of the power is directed to charge the car. The ioniq will accept 350 kW charging.
Thanks for adding the EV charging information.
I just got an ge4 for farm and solark for the house
Nice! It will be nice to see which one has fewer problems over the years.
Me too
I saw someone saying the EG4 is only 50 amps discharge. Not sure if that was true or not.
Maybe they are thinking of the AC output current. 50A*120V=6000W.
SolArk is worth about half the output that they claim according to testing that can be seen on YT.
The Schneider is worth about double what they claim.
A Fronius Gen 24 wil do the job ????
I sell lots of EG4s and Schneider equipment used to sell SolArk but it's price is out of most people's reach Schneider 6848 pro will do everything and do it better than any of them and at a better price although it has more components little more to hook up it's not all in one but it is better overall
I have not had good luck with Signature Solar's service after the sale.
Thanks for your feedback. Can you give some detail on the issue?
@@ProjectsWithDave 1) No reply to emails concerning neutral bonding in battery and pass thru modes, 2) or concerning the internal transformer in a particular model LF Growatt AIO acting as an autotransformer when in grid pass thru 3) or to any safety aspects of said AIO in relation to internal transformer overload from attempting to balance L1/L2 to the street transformer. Had to engage a very intelligent and helpful forum member, who happened to be an EE with decades of experience, to figure out how to 'safely' use one of Signature Solar's products. They continue to sell this product while other reputable retailers, like Watts.247, state " ... we no longer support this model due to potential autotransformer issues feeding back to utility. ... ". Signature Solar only answered these questions regarding their product when a forum post gathered enough views to garner their attention.
Thanks for adding the details!
Two Voltronics (EG4 and Sungold) and one Deye (Solark). When will a US company step up amd offer similar a value based solutions? Solark pricing is nuts, since Deye units can be had in other countries for way less.
The industry is still pretty young. I'm sure competition will continue to drive greater value across the industry. It just may take some time.
What are the 3 parts with fins on the solark at 10:39
I didn't disassemble it that far since it wasn't my inverter, so I'm not sure exactly which parts those heat sinks belong to. However, almost the entire back side is filled with heat sink fins.
Can you give us the link to the transfer switch?
Here are two options similar to mine:
TCA1006DR Outdoor Transfer Panel - 100A and 60A Generator: amzn.to/3FWIuI1
TCA1006D Indoor Panel/Link Transfer Panel: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HRWGPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We would go with (2) EG4 in split phase, they will make Sol-Ark runs for it price 😊😊😊😊😊
I haven't tested it yet, but the new EG4 18k seems like a great choice: signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kpv-hybrid-inverter-all-in-one-solar-inverter-eg4-18kpv-12lv/?ref=SALE
Have you looked at:
EG4 8kW Hybrid Inverter
Not in detail.
Are those inverter pure sine wave?
Yes
I think you have added a YIYEN 15kw inverter to this group. Simple old school reliable. Some time simple is more reliable.
Nice summary but odd matchup. It's like comparing a Ford GT, Dodge Hellcat and a Koenigsegg Agera... a couple of good performers and then something in a completely different league. BTW, I can't resist the 15k... saving my pennies...
Yes, it was more about showing the spectrum of options.
Average Toyota or Honda will still get same work done. Being expensive doesn't mean better. There are way cheaper options that will get the job done
@@akinwaleakintoye8304 It all depends on how you are defining "the job".
If my well wasn't 220v I'd get the same Victron. I've read about a lot of issues with the Growatts.
What issues have you heard on the Growatt inverters? Where did you hear it from?
I've had countless encounters with growatt quality issues
What issues have you had?
There's a lot of troubleshooting on diysolarforum for the Growatts. There are also a lot of complaints of lights flickering when run off EG4 inverters.
Thanks for adding some detail.
Still waiting for someone to actually test those solark burst ratings
The 15K is the only one worth buying out of all of the solarks
The solark isn't a high frequency transformer inverter - unless you can find one! It should be marked as transformerless. That is, it should be upping voltage with a dc/dc converter and then chopping it down into AC. Grid tie string inverters are exactly the same, solar comes in at a high voltage and is chopped down directly into AC with no need for a transformer. A solark is just one of those with all the other features added, thats why the efficiency is so much higher. The other ones drop the voltage all the way down to the battery voltage before chopping it up and running it through the inverter to bring it back up and get a center tap
Yes, you're right it's transformerless.
And the idle consumption is more than what they say on paper hook a battery to it and check it with an amp clamp it should be around a hundred Watts
These are very impressive and expensive. I like to build my systems with redundancy in mind using many inverters serving many separate tasks. If these single point systems go down, especially for people totally off grid in rural areas, your out of business til a new all in one unit can be repaired or replaced.
Redundancy is a good thing if you are totally off grid.
I have to agree. I think that is one reason why I wouldn't go with a Sol-Ark unit. It might have a great warranty, but the price is so far outside the range of normal and for that price I can get literally 6 of the low frequency inverters from EG4 or 4 from SunGold. That's a lot of redundancy that the Sol-Ark simply cannot compete with.
Yes, when the price gap is that big it's not hard to imagine a solution with multiple Sungold inverters that are not being stressed, and still be ahead.
That’s why I have 2 12K and two EG4.
I'd love the 15k. Just can't justify it with the cost of batteries and no net metering.
It is hard to justify the cost... Takes much longer to pay off, but it does have a much longer warranty... lots to consider. However, if you don't have net metering it would take a very long time to pay off.
My two 12K’s- 0 problems 10 mo totally off grid.
By "totally off-grid" do you mean no grid connection whatsoever? If so, what is the size of your battery bank and what is your average daily consumption?
The Sungold unit was just tested by another youtuber and it doesn't work as advertised. The firmware is crap.
The EG4 unit which I own requires the installer to understand how the unit handles neutral ground bond in there specific configuration. It's not covered in the owners manual and good luck if you have an issue covered by the warranty.
Thanks for giving your actual use feedback. What bonding issue did you have, and how did you resolve it?
Look likes is time to upgrade my AIMS 4000watt 48v inverter charger.
The options these days are endless. The features and capabilities are continuously improving.
So he keeps saying high frequency inverter, HF, does he mean low frequency inverter?
But if you get the phases of valence, it will review in the dark
1.21 Gigawatts?!?!
Those SolArk surge figures... ???
How can 10s surge be more than 5s surge?
Great question. That is why I prefer to do actual testing over just comparing book specs. The 10s number is the rated surge power at 24,000W. The 5s number is calculated from the rated fault current of 94A at a nominal 240V (not exactly the same I should have labeled it differently I'll update the downloadable spec chart). In these systems, current is the actual limit not power. I guess it's conceivable that the system can trip at a much lower power output if the voltage is at the low end of the range. If 94A is the actual current limit, then for the system to achieve the rated 24000W power surge limit the voltage would need to be 255V. Maybe someone has actually been able to measure the 10S surge capacity and can give the actual real world performance.
Here is the updated chart: drive.google.com/file/d/14ExaH6nr0msl0jAHa473k-83tn_CViu2/view?usp=sharing
HOWdy P-W-E-D, ...
Why not toss in a Split-Phase GroWATT SPF 6000 DVM-MPV ?
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
There are a lot of others I could add, I just did these three because I had them on hand. It gives you a good starting point, you can easily add others and expand the chart.
Good afternoon Dave . Watch all of videos. I noticed you affiliated with Signiture Solar. I have problems with the 12kw low frequency not accepting my generator as the utility power to charge the battery. I have been on the phone for 1 hour with so called tech and no luck. Tech we to update the firmware we did. We went thru all the program setting and still won’t switch to utility to charge my battery. He were I fill Signiture Solar is trying to put the blame on me. I got an email requesting me to send 15 photos of the system installed and All AC input connection and output on the inverter and voltage from panels to inverter and how battery is connected to inverter and main panel and how many PV in series string an parallel. Have you ever ran into a company doing this? The Tech on the phone nows this he and I went through it and I told him exactly what the display was showing. Please give me your feedback or help.
Sorry, to hear that. I'm not sure I can solve it for you, I haven't spent much time connecting generators yet. Which inverter and generator do you have?
@@ProjectsWithDave I have the 12kw low frequency inverter. The generator is a pure sin wave 15 kw . With low distortion
I was looking for model numbers.
@@ProjectsWithDave model number SPF 12000T DVM-MPV
I'm not familiar with this inverter. From the manual it looks like there is one input for AC. I did not see any clear instructions for settings to manage generator inputs. Usually there is a setting to allow the inverter to use a more inconsistent input when on generator power. Is all the inverter equipment and the generator bonded to the same ground point? Will the inverter charge the batteries when connected to utility power? My method would be to start eliminating possibilities. If it works with utility power but not the generator, it could be a setting. You could also try borrowing another generator and see if it works.
This is a perfect example of a sales talk. Just specs but no actual recommendation or real world experience with any of the models. My point is that that Sungold is a pain in the butt. See other videos on RUclips explaining how poorly the software is written for Sungold inverter, Second of all if the Sungold is installed outdoor the display is poorly lit. Also for being rated for outdoor use their is a screen on top of unit which would let the rain fall onto the coolingfins on the rear of Sungolds inverter.
15k is a big jump from 6k.
It’s not worth the price, you can add switching your self. For the price it should come with 48v battery storage.
Signature solar just release a more comparable model.
EG4-8KEXP-240
Yea, I should probably expand my chart to show some of the other options just for reference.
Also Sungolds inverter has no wiring diagrams! Definitely not for the DIY'er
If you have the land, the time has come to go off grid.
Lets face it. People that are buying the SolArk? Are buying 6-12 batteries.
sory mate 6000W is 3000 W a phase, electricity is three phase like you talk
this have 6 phase no it have 3 x single phase with split phase they have not three customers
but 6 from the same three phase there job is making you believe it is for your interest
so do not think it is in the interest from the utility.
IDLE current for the all inverters are so terrible, even 60W x 24 = 1.4kWh power will gone,
Inverter efficiency is meaningless in with a properly sized solar array and battery bank. And only a double 200% surge capacity is considered poor when compare to current, inverter industry standards. Low frequency inverters are the only way to go. Never, ever buy a low surge, short lived, light duty, high frequency inverter if you want an off grid system that's going to perform and last.
Please help me with my math here. What am I doing wrong?
If the EG4 consumes 115W, then wouldn't it consume 2,760 wh/day?
Why did you quote a number half that big?
Yes, you're right. Ha ha... I must have been thinking 12hr days for some reason (that's what it feels like sometimes). That's the great thing about the comment section on these videos! It's like auto correct for spelling. : )
@@ProjectsWithDave that is the reason why I'm not choosing this inverter for my setup. In fact, I have heard reports that the idle number is 135w, which is even worse than you stated.
I'm buying a couple Multiplus II 3000/48 inverters. They consume about 25w combined, I think.
Yes, the Victron is pricy, but amazing. I measure between 5W and 10W at idle. I installed one of those for a 120V backup system and was able to run my fridge for for 4 days off two SOK 48V server rack batteries. You can see the results here: ruclips.net/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/видео.html
You are exactly right...that's a ton of energy. It would take 5-600W of solar panels just to keep the inverter powered on every day!
Solark = nope! Better do a ton of research before dropping $8k on a lemon
Maybe you could share your experience that led to that conclusion.