Kawasaki STX-15F Detailed Engine Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 17 янв 2024
- I fully reassemble a 2006 Kawasaki jet ski 1500cc engine showing a few tips on how to get everything right on the first try. This engine remains mostly unchanged through the current 2024 model STX160. Link for Kawasaki MANUAL: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmg...
@kawiperformance @KawasakiUSA @KawasakiMotorsEU 
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Love the video! Been waiting on it thought it was never gonna come. Congratz on the ski!
Took longer than I expected haha. Thanks!
I really appreciate the detailed video. It's been nearly two years since I took my engine apart so this will be helpful
Thanks! Good luck!
Amazing video mate - would love to stay that organised when filming, makes great content well done 👍
I appreciate that! Thanks!
Have fun good luck
Need you to rebuild mine! 😂
Hi, like your videos, question, i going to install the exhaust manifold gasket, but i am not 100% with way our witch side goes to the engine our with side goes to the manifold
Hope you can help me.
Thank you
Thanks! You can install it either way. It doesn't matter. Good luck wrenching!
Thank you very much.
Hello, can you tell me where you picked up the rotor tool? Thanks
Search “rotor holder 57001-1544”. I bought a used one off eBay, but I think Partzilla might be able to get them. They most likely will order it from a Kawasaki dealer
how did you know what size and colour crank bearings to buy??
Great question! If you know the crankshaft hasn't been ground / resized, then go with standard (STD) bearings. To be certain, you can measure the crankshaft journal diameter and compare it with the manual. Page 8-4 and 8-5. I attached a link to the manual if you need it. Hope this helps!
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmgbaw1ea9qcbq1fsw/STX-15F-service-manual.pdf?rlkey=2l0hf045bil73j4okmy6z0szd&dl=0
did you really replace the rod bolts? I've always wondered if you could get by without replacing them. Never tried it though
Lol, sorry it wasn’t clear in the video, I did NOT replace them. It’s running fine. There a tools to measure the stretch of the bolts so it would be interesting to see how much some used ones are stretched over new ones. I really wasn’t worried about it. If you were to follow the factory’s recommendation on every single part, they’d have you throw out almost everything during rebuilds and the cost would be almost as much as an entire new ski
Great video
Did you reuse the old head bolts or did you get new ones?
Thanks! I reused them as well. After about 3 uses I would toss them but this was its first rebuild so I had no worries about using them
Does one of the exhaust port nt have a big hole in it?
Great questions! So that extra hole you see in the exhaust ports is a passage to the Reed valves in the valve cover. It was Kawasaki's way of emissions control using secondary air injection in the exhaust. It has no bearing on performance or anything and the later cylinder heads (maybe 2008-newer) blocked those ports and removed the ports in the valve covers. Hope this answers your question!
did you happen to take the exhaust stinger off the collector at the manifold? There is a cone in that that frequently rots out and it can cause engine failure.
The stinger where it goes into the waterbox definitely had a few holes. I didn't film that part but I did braze in some aluminum alloy filler to seal it up. That is still holding fine but it's on my mind to replace it at some point. But as long as its not leaking then I'm going to run it. Great input! The exhaust is highly prone to rotting out
@@rowlandrestorations I'm talking about on the manifold side, if you take the bolts off and pull the stinger off the collector, there is a cone inside. I have a video on my channel about it.
ruclips.net/video/ao1E7J8IFwo/видео.html&ab_channel=TheStephenspann27@@rowlandrestorations
@@TheStephenspann27 I checked out your video (stx15f, 12f exhaust). The part where the exhaust rings (piston ring type things) seal against that stainless steel sleeve inside the waterbox…. Ya that was definitely all rotted out on mine. I probably should’ve used JB weld like you but I brazed in some aluminum to seal it. It’ll be something I probably replace in the future if I start noticing more water in the hull
i have dumb question where does the second hose from oil pan connect too
No worries! It connects to the bottom of the catch can. It allows the oil vapors collected in the catch can to drain back down to the oil pan
@@rowlandrestorations i will have more stupid questions on my install thanks for responding
@@dproulx7380 No worries! Happy to help!
How many lb/ft on head bolts and the camshaft cap??
Head bolts need at least 2 torque passes. First is 17 ft/lbs, then 43 ft/lbs final. Camshaft cap is about 9 ft/lbs or 104 in-lbs. Its on page 181 in the service manual.
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmgbaw1ea9qcbq1fsw/STX-15F-service-manual.pdf?rlkey=2l0hf045bil73j4okmy6z0szd&e=1&dl=0
Hey mate, did you have any issue with re-using the rod bolts?
It cool i just read one of your other comments 🙂
Yup! I would just say inspect them closely and make sure there is no visible taper to them. The costs add up quick when rebuilding, so I say reuse where you can!
New valve springs?
Same used ones
You need to check oil clearances?
Could have but didn’t. Didn’t even really need to replace any of the bearings but I replaced them with standard size ones anyway cuz I was in there
To expand on this, the crankshaft was not damaged in any way so I could just use standard bearings. I only needed to verify they were the correct standard size and not oversized like if you were to get the crankshaft machined down. Once you start getting away from factory sizes by machining surfaces, crankshaft, center bores, etc, then you'll need to be more careful about measuring. This kawasaki engine is well designed so you can get away with a lot which is one of the points I tried to show
That's a new crankshaft?
Nope. Same one
promo sm 🙋