Just bought a new, well new to me and the electric element wasn't working. Thanks to your instructional video I was able to troubleshoot my problem in less than 10 minutes, hot water now....thanks!
Thanx Steve, your video helped immensely with my similar problem. I troubleshot my water heater exactly as you did only to find my switch was bad. Since I didn't have a multimeter with me when the problem occurred and I just replaced the heating element last year, I took a chance and bought the switch and high limit/ thermostat switch on Amazon for under $20.00 delivered. So my next visit to my seasonal site I was prepared. Now I have an extra limit/thermostat switch just in case. Thanx Again, Jean
Great video. After watching your video I did exactly as you described. Originally thinking it was my heater element burned out, but it turned out like in your video, it was the thermostat. Saved me a lot of time and money watching your video. Thanks.
thank you so much steve for the advice,i found my problem it has a 3 valve system for the bypass and the bypass was on putting the hotwater back into the cold line,after you mentioned the crossed flow it dawned on me but thanks to you i now no how to trouble shoot my whole system.
i just want to thank u....i have electrical backround but with out your video i would have probably been lost....or it would have taken 3 times as long.....the voltage for thermostat and limitor...which i know cause you pass same voltage through when functioning correctly....the ac side 110 and dc side 12.....my thermostat was bad...dc side....jumped out and wa la....of course we have to replace but at least i can get hot water for the moment.....your video by far the most through i found after 4 hours searching....voltage pasess for those divices to the ignitor modules next....so if they are not receiving.....no solenoid or ignighter....thanks again and God bless...i am sure u just saved min 100...probably a lot more...😁😁😁😁
Thanks Steve. Lead me right to my issue after I replaced the element and that didn't resolve my issue. The switch was good so when I tested the thermostat the problem was found. Thanks for the guidance.
Its a never ending project, been working on it as much as possible. They have been working us 16 hours a day at work so it doesn't leave much free time. It takes one day on the weekend just to keep the grass cut at the houses.
This was a great tutorial and helped my find and fix the problem with my Suburban Water Heater . New element & new switch solved the problem. THANK YOU!!!!
Been using your video as a guide. No voltage to the heating element. Re[placed it. Continuity on Element screws is 10.5 110 thermostat reset good. No clicking. Electrical thermostat has continuity. On Off switch has continuity. Did I miss anything? I'd like to start the hot water heater.
Hey Nice job! But as a RV tec I want to note that your burn tube is scorched and you need to adjust the burn tube. You said you see a piolet or flame and pointed where you see it in the burn tube and that is cause the scorched in the bend of the tube. You can still use it but it is the weakest point and will most likely rust and develop holes. You should only see blue flame at the end of the burn tube going into the burn chamber or venting. Happy Camping!
I have both an electric and LP switch for my hot water heater inside my RV. I only turn it on when we are camping and off when we leave. I never turn the switch OFF on the actual heater outside.
Kelly Jones yup, that's how it should be, but for some strange reason, forest river cheaped out on adding a second switch. Ive forgotten the switch on, upon leaving, and nothing happened, but if the water level drops, exposing the element, it can fail quickly.
Completely awesome video shows all troubleshooting paths and voltages. Your much smarter than most and your videos are self explanatory! Outfuckingstanding sir!
Hello steve very awesome video but i have a different problem,my heater is exactly the same but is only heating on the top of the tank,doesn,t matter if its on propane or electric.We get hot water for maybe 30 seconds and then its cold,about a minute or so later very hot again for roughly 30 sec,s or so,can,t figure it out.made sure tank is full and all water turned on,thanks steve
the only time I've ever heard of that happening is when there is a "crossed flow" issue. this can happen if for example you leave a hand shower with the shut off on the hand shower off but both hot and cold valves open. then when you run the hot water in another location cold water flows through the other valve into the hot water supply line . always keep both valves on your outdoor shower closed when not in use.
A multimeter is all you need, and they can be had for as little as $10 from harbor freight or online. Mine are more expensive but a cheap one will work fine here.
Hi there,,, could you tell me the model of heater yours is,, also should I disconnect the 120 before I test the element? not sure how this works but if there is no power how would it show up on the tester??
Marlene Pisani yikes! no offense, but your questions lead me to believe you do not have much experience with electrical work, so I suggest you get someone else more knowledgeable to test it for you. but if you insist on moving forward on your own, if checking the resistance of the element, you want all the power off.
Don't forget to throw the switch for the water heater on the main back on like I did (to protect the element) or stand around scratching your head like I did.
Mine works fine on gas but will kick the main breaker when i try to run on electric. Especially if i run he over head ac. Breaker will kick then for sure Sometimes fast sometime little later but will kick if i run both. All help appreciated...
@@stevewatr no the main breaker in the camper. As on now im not useing the ac because its cold here in Ky.. I use the gas only for the water heater for now but id like to figure out the prob because the propane i have to buy and the electric is included in the rent. Live on very small income and the furnace eats up the propane enough by itself. Just trying to figure it out and get it back to the electric side. Im hooked up at a resident with 110 power. It run fine for a long time. Both ac and water heater on the electric side. then the breaker started kicking with the ac on. Then i noticed the water wasnt hot one day and cut the hot water switch off and started useing the propane side to heat the water. When doing it like that I can run the ac and it doest kick the breaker. I thought it was the ac pulling to many amps but with the electric switch off on the water heater the ac runs fine. Im thinking the element is bad or maybe the thermostat on the electric side bad. Just not sure nor do i know how to test it. I just would rather have it fixed to have hot water on the electric side rather than useing the propane.
@@kevinferrell7033 well, a few things to check. Either the breaker has gone bad in a way that it's tripping below its rated amperage, or there is too much current flowing through the breaker. A bad element might be the cause, but elements usually fail open circuit meaning no current flow, no heat. You could also have a wiring issue, where the insulation on a wire is damaged, and occasionally shorts out to some thing grounded, like the heater housing. Since it doesn't trip right away, it makes it a lot harder to track down. Sorry I cant be of more help.
@@stevewatr Thanks for you reply. I think i will get e a multi meter and ck for continuity test on my ac power thermostat from the behind the reset cover. Te gas side works perfect. Im just trying to get it back to the electric working cause the electric is paid in my rent and i have to buy the propane. Thanks for you help....
@@kevinferrell7033 you're welcome. By the way, if you're plugging into a 30 amp outlet, I'm not surprised if the heater trips when the ac is on. Mine does that, and has since new. Also, upgrading your supply cord to higher gage conductors will help. The one that came with my trailer is light. A marine grade one is pricey, but usually better quality because they're used for shore power to boats.
Just bought a new, well new to me and the electric element wasn't working. Thanks to your instructional video I was able to troubleshoot my problem in less than 10 minutes, hot water now....thanks!
Thanx Steve, your video helped immensely with my similar problem. I troubleshot my water heater exactly as you did only to find my switch was bad. Since I didn't have a multimeter with me when the problem occurred and I just replaced the heating element last year, I took a chance and bought the switch and high limit/ thermostat switch on Amazon for under $20.00 delivered. So my next visit to my seasonal site I was prepared. Now I have an extra limit/thermostat switch just in case. Thanx Again, Jean
Jean Lavoie Glad the video helped. Happy camping!
Great video. After watching your video I did exactly as you described. Originally thinking it was my heater element burned out, but it turned out like in your video, it was the thermostat. Saved me a lot of time and money watching your video. Thanks.
Tony
Steve this is great information, it solved my Suburban no hot water problem, thank you.
Very well done; diagnosed my trouble exactly and saved me a lot of time figuring out the best way to tackle it.
glad to hear the video helped
What a great "how to" video. Suburban Airxcel, Inc. should send you a big fat check.
thank you so much steve for the advice,i found my problem it has a 3 valve system for the bypass and the bypass was on putting the hotwater back into the cold line,after you mentioned the crossed flow it dawned on me but thanks to you i now no how to trouble shoot my whole system.
Glad to hear you solved the issue. happy camper
Steve :Thank you very much for the excellent video and overall production. Sound effects in second part priceless.
Really really well done. Thanks for taking the time to produce this.
i just want to thank u....i have electrical backround but with out your video i would have probably been lost....or it would have taken 3 times as long.....the voltage for thermostat and limitor...which i know cause you pass same voltage through when functioning correctly....the ac side 110 and dc side 12.....my thermostat was bad...dc side....jumped out and wa la....of course we have to replace but at least i can get hot water for the moment.....your video by far the most through i found after 4 hours searching....voltage pasess for those divices to the ignitor modules next....so if they are not receiving.....no solenoid or ignighter....thanks again and God bless...i am sure u just saved min 100...probably a lot more...😁😁😁😁
Thanks Steve. Lead me right to my issue after I replaced the element and that didn't resolve my issue. The switch was good so when I tested the thermostat the problem was found. Thanks for the guidance.
Its a never ending project, been working on it as much as possible. They have been working us 16 hours a day at work so it doesn't leave much free time. It takes one day on the weekend just to keep the grass cut at the houses.
This was a great tutorial and helped my find and fix the problem with my Suburban Water Heater . New element & new switch solved the problem. THANK YOU!!!!
thank you very much. I now understand how the unit works.
Been using your video as a guide. No voltage to the heating element. Re[placed it. Continuity on Element screws is 10.5 110 thermostat reset good. No clicking. Electrical thermostat has continuity. On Off switch has continuity. Did I miss anything? I'd like to start the hot water heater.
Hey Nice job! But as a RV tec I want to note that your burn tube is scorched and you need to adjust the burn tube. You said you see a piolet or flame and pointed where you see it in the burn tube and that is cause the scorched in the bend of the tube. You can still use it but it is the weakest point and will most likely rust and develop holes. You should only see blue flame at the end of the burn tube going into the burn chamber or venting. Happy Camping!
Thank you for the tip, regards.
I have both an electric and LP switch for my hot water heater inside my RV. I only turn it on when we are camping and off when we leave. I never turn the switch OFF on the actual heater outside.
Kelly Jones yup, that's how it should be, but for some strange reason, forest river cheaped out on adding a second switch. Ive forgotten the switch on, upon leaving, and nothing happened, but if the water level drops, exposing the element, it can fail quickly.
Nice job, had the same problem 2 years ago but it was a short in the ground
Harley,
Can you tell me how you fixed your problem? I still can't find my electrical issue.
Harley Ironhead
Harley,
Can you tell me how you fixed your problem? I still can't find my electrical issue.
I know the feeling. Took me 10 years from start to finish, and I still have some unfinished interior stuff to get to.
Both Gas and Electric thermostats show good continuity and OHMS reading is .4 for each one? What should I do next?
Completely awesome video shows all troubleshooting paths and voltages. Your much smarter than most and your videos are self explanatory! Outfuckingstanding sir!
Not a bad idea to disconnect one of the lines to the element before doing the continuity test.
Perfect videos. Great Job thank you .
Thought the switch inside was for the electric and could not figure out why the gas kept trying to kick on while the electric was plugged in. Thanks
Brian Mc G if you follow other videos you can use both...but yes inside for dc....and propane....outside is ac hook up.....
Hello steve very awesome video but i have a different problem,my heater is exactly the same but is only heating on the top of the tank,doesn,t matter if its on propane or electric.We get hot water for maybe 30 seconds and then its cold,about a minute or so later very hot again for roughly 30 sec,s or so,can,t figure it out.made sure tank is full and all water turned on,thanks steve
the only time I've ever heard of that happening is when there is a "crossed flow" issue. this can happen if for example you leave a hand shower with the shut off on the hand shower off but both hot and cold valves open. then when you run the hot water in another location cold water flows through the other valve into the hot water supply line . always keep both valves on your outdoor shower closed when not in use.
Check the valve next to your water heater make sure its closed or you will get cross flow
Did you figure it out ? I know it’s been 5 years lol
Great videoI hope this helps me fix mine.. Can't figure it out
+JW Hilliard Glad you liked it. Hope it helps.
What is that gadget called that your using to check ? How much does it cost? Or is their place I can rent it at?
A multimeter is all you need, and they can be had for as little as $10 from harbor freight or online. Mine are more expensive but a cheap one will work fine here.
Hi there,,, could you tell me the model of heater yours is,, also should I disconnect the 120 before I test the element? not sure how this works but if there is no power how would it show up on the tester??
Marlene Pisani yikes! no offense, but your questions lead me to believe you do not have much experience with electrical work, so I suggest you get someone else more knowledgeable to test it for you. but if you insist on moving forward on your own, if checking the resistance of the element, you want all the power off.
Lol...no I am not the one that would be doing this!
Don't forget to throw the switch for the water heater on the main back on like I did (to protect the element) or stand around scratching your head like I did.
My heater is designed just like this ...I can hear heater try to lite.. about 4 r 5 trys it lites up
Great video Thank You
Mine works fine on gas but will kick the main breaker when i try to run on electric. Especially if i run he over head ac. Breaker will kick then for sure Sometimes fast sometime little later but will kick if i run both. All help appreciated...
When you say main breaker, do you mean the one at the campground?
@@stevewatr no the main breaker in the camper. As on now im not useing the ac because its cold here in Ky.. I use the gas only for the water heater for now but id like to figure out the prob because the propane i have to buy and the electric is included in the rent. Live on very small income and the furnace eats up the propane enough by itself. Just trying to figure it out and get it back to the electric side. Im hooked up at a resident with 110 power. It run fine for a long time. Both ac and water heater on the electric side. then the breaker started kicking with the ac on. Then i noticed the water wasnt hot one day and cut the hot water switch off and started useing the propane side to heat the water. When doing it like that I can run the ac and it doest kick the breaker. I thought it was the ac pulling to many amps but with the electric switch off on the water heater the ac runs fine. Im thinking the element is bad or maybe the thermostat on the electric side bad. Just not sure nor do i know how to test it. I just would rather have it fixed to have hot water on the electric side rather than useing the propane.
@@kevinferrell7033 well, a few things to check. Either the breaker has gone bad in a way that it's tripping below its rated amperage, or there is too much current flowing through the breaker. A bad element might be the cause, but elements usually fail open circuit meaning no current flow, no heat. You could also have a wiring issue, where the insulation on a wire is damaged, and occasionally shorts out to some thing grounded, like the heater housing. Since it doesn't trip right away, it makes it a lot harder to track down. Sorry I cant be of more help.
@@stevewatr Thanks for you reply. I think i will get e a multi meter and ck for continuity test on my ac power thermostat from the behind the reset cover. Te gas side works perfect. Im just trying to get it back to the electric working cause the electric is paid in my rent and i have to buy the propane. Thanks for you help....
@@kevinferrell7033 you're welcome. By the way, if you're plugging into a 30 amp outlet, I'm not surprised if the heater trips when the ac is on. Mine does that, and has since new. Also, upgrading your supply cord to higher gage conductors will help. The one that came with my trailer is light. A marine grade one is pricey, but usually better quality because they're used for shore power to boats.
I thought for sure I fried the element, but it turned out to just be that thermal cut off. BTW, did you ever end up fixing up that house?
nice informative video
Thanks
Great video. Good views and explanations. Put me on the right track. May still need an expert but at least I'll know why.
glad you found it helpful.
lol...just keeping someone else on their toes!
Marlene Pisani I
My dsi suburban has a electrical 110 switch on heater and inside camper not all are only on outside.. (Maybe save someone the b.s. time)
Those screws to access the Thermostat cover and the Element covers was a poor design. Upon re-assembly I relocated them.
Steer clear of suburban