I just bought 1/4" universal Line Service Valve part number CD8404. I've had the king valves leak so many times I'm sick of it. I always wondered how to replace this and now I can do it thanks man.
I've done it in a pinch but it's nice to be able to pump the system down when needed. Call me a hack but I've been able to front and back seat the valve and have been successful stoping the leak, I've also used nylog and Teflon taped the threads stopped them from leaking, it all depends on the situation but fixed is fixed.
Not to beat you up but, I have followed so many techs that "sealed the threads" of those caps with any number of "sealants". The cap threads are not tapered. Only tapered threads are are sealed by pipe sealants. I did a video on this that shows how this works: ruclips.net/video/8M66-w3ZY2k/видео.html When, by far, the most common leak is the "service valve" (they are not true service valves) and pumping down is not an option, just dump the valves and seal the system with sil phos and be done with the problem. I have seen these caps literally blow off from the threads and damage the siding on the structure. GFM
I wish more companies and manufacturer's would allow this.. there is a reason people can't find leaks (That or they never put the refrigerant from their gauges back in, year after year after..lol) Great video as always, I find overheated suction valves ALLLLL the time.. its ridiculous (from the manufacturer's too)
HVAC industry ought to have improved on service valve design. O ring leak is a common point on air conditioning system and one should be able to remove these service valves like valve core without freon leak
I have a problem. AC condensing unit condensing coils are corroding away. Starting at the bottom on unit working its way up. I live near beach in South Texas. No way to have repaired without replacing condenser coil? AC still cools fine for now.
If the service valve leaks, what would make you think a new one would not leak. Doing the same thing and expecting a different result is the definition of insanity. lol GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for your reply. In my experience, not all service valves leak and it's nice to be able to pump down the system. You've got a good work around here. Thanks for sharing.
This question is related to another of your (really old) videos about 2-stage thermostats. I'm trying to control my Lennox xc21 with a single-stage thermostat (I only have 4 wires to my thermostat and I really need my AC to run continuously at full-power anyway - I don't need the low stage). I infer that I should simply jump the y1 and y2 connections at the AC unit, is that right? That is, if I want 100% of capacity then y1 and y2 should both be energized together - if only y1 is hot then I get "70% of capacity," and I need both y1 and y2 to be hot to get 100% output, right? (That leads to the question: What happens if only y2 is hot? I don't plan to try it, but just curious.) Thanks!
First, I would allow the 2 stage system to operate as designed. Setting the thermostat and forgetting it is best. If you manually turn on the A/C when you want it, you can try jumping Y1 and Y2, but it may be designed to start on low and go to high after a delay. GFM
GFM, welcome back! Question: as an alternative to straight tubing the mess, can some red goop / threat sealant be applied to the service caps to keep the refrigerant from leaking out?
Absolutely not! The caps are really just dust caps. There is no gas sealing properties in the caps. I lost count many years ago of caps with assorted sealants/orings, etc that I have removed along with the valves. I actually started replacing these valves with brazed fittings in the the late 1980s. The less mechanical fittings you have, the better. GFM
The original reason for the "service valves" were required was so the unit could be pumped down and the repair done without losing the charge. You can't pump down when the service valve is the failure and most leaks are at the service valve. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman you can though to change a defective txv, leaking evap coil, or take out suction line drier. I think the risk of leaking service valves is blown out of proportion -> if the machine is decent quality (no chinese junk or goodman), was installed right without overheating the valves and the caps tightly - far less likely for the valves to leak. I'm sure many homeowners don't call for service unless their unit stops cooling properly, the techs disproportionately see units with problems and assume almost all service valves eventually leak. Don't see the successes as much - the 15++ year old units that work perfectly with original charge and no leakage.
@@Jon-hx7pe With the widespread use of recovery machines, I see little value to a pump down. Getting out the recovery machine is now just a small part of the necessary equipment. Yes, service techs only see the failures, but most failures are charge issues due to leaks. Most leaks are at service valves. This was true when I first worked on A/C units in 1977, and it is still true. GFM
I just bought 1/4" universal Line Service Valve part number CD8404. I've had the king valves leak so many times I'm sick of it. I always wondered how to replace this and now I can do it thanks man.
It's good to see you again. Welcome back grayfurnaceman. Always enjoyed your videos. That is a great solution for leaky service valves.
Good fix! Good to see your videos again too. I use these on window units often. Works good on refrigerators as well ,if it’s even repairable 😆
Nice Tech Tip! Good to see you! I hope all is well and your not dealing with the smoke from the fires like last year! Take care!
Good to see you again.
You too
GFM
I've done it in a pinch but it's nice to be able to pump the system down when needed. Call me a hack but I've been able to front and back seat the valve and have been successful stoping the leak, I've also used nylog and Teflon taped the threads stopped them from leaking, it all depends on the situation but fixed is fixed.
Not to beat you up but, I have followed so many techs that "sealed the threads" of those caps with any number of "sealants". The cap threads are not tapered. Only tapered threads are are sealed by pipe sealants. I did a video on this that shows how this works: ruclips.net/video/8M66-w3ZY2k/видео.html When, by far, the most common leak is the "service valve" (they are not true service valves) and pumping down is not an option, just dump the valves and seal the system with sil phos and be done with the problem. I have seen these caps literally blow off from the threads and damage the siding on the structure.
GFM
Ha! I was just thinking about this method the other day. Thank you for the video.
I wish more companies and manufacturer's would allow this.. there is a reason people can't find leaks (That or they never put the refrigerant from their gauges back in, year after year after..lol)
Great video as always, I find overheated suction valves ALLLLL the time.. its ridiculous (from the manufacturer's too)
So true.
GFM
HVAC industry ought to have improved on service valve design. O ring leak is a common point on air conditioning system and one should be able to remove these service valves like valve core without freon leak
I have a problem. AC condensing unit condensing coils are corroding away. Starting at the bottom on unit working its way up. I live near beach in South Texas. No way to have repaired without replacing condenser coil? AC still cools fine for now.
Do you have a dog?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman No I think we had well waters sprinklers spraying on it a bit.
It is in front yard no dogs there.
@@monkeyman2174 I guess that you probably are getting salt from the sea. There are units that are designed for seaside exposure.
GFM
Good morning!
Morning!
GFM
Welcome back, I always enjoy your videos. Question, why not just replace the service valve?
If the service valve leaks, what would make you think a new one would not leak. Doing the same thing and expecting a different result is the definition of insanity. lol
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for your reply. In my experience, not all service valves leak and it's nice to be able to pump down the system. You've got a good work around here. Thanks for sharing.
This question is related to another of your (really old) videos about 2-stage thermostats. I'm trying to control my Lennox xc21 with a single-stage thermostat (I only have 4 wires to my thermostat and I really need my AC to run continuously at full-power anyway - I don't need the low stage). I infer that I should simply jump the y1 and y2 connections at the AC unit, is that right? That is, if I want 100% of capacity then y1 and y2 should both be energized together - if only y1 is hot then I get "70% of capacity," and I need both y1 and y2 to be hot to get 100% output, right? (That leads to the question: What happens if only y2 is hot? I don't plan to try it, but just curious.) Thanks!
First, I would allow the 2 stage system to operate as designed. Setting the thermostat and forgetting it is best.
If you manually turn on the A/C when you want it, you can try jumping Y1 and Y2, but it may be designed to start on low and go to high after a delay.
GFM
GFM, welcome back! Question: as an alternative to straight tubing the mess, can some red goop / threat sealant be applied to the service caps to keep the refrigerant from leaking out?
Absolutely not! The caps are really just dust caps. There is no gas sealing properties in the caps. I lost count many years ago of caps with assorted sealants/orings, etc that I have removed along with the valves. I actually started replacing these valves with brazed fittings in the the late 1980s.
The less mechanical fittings you have, the better.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks GFM - I wasn't aware. Really appreciate the video and the feedback to the question! That's a great idea you presented!
No more pumping down?
The original reason for the "service valves" were required was so the unit could be pumped down and the repair done without losing the charge. You can't pump down when the service valve is the failure and most leaks are at the service valve.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman you can though to change a defective txv, leaking evap coil, or take out suction line drier. I think the risk of leaking service valves is blown out of proportion -> if the machine is decent quality (no chinese junk or goodman), was installed right without overheating the valves and the caps tightly - far less likely for the valves to leak.
I'm sure many homeowners don't call for service unless their unit stops cooling properly, the techs disproportionately see units with problems and assume almost all service valves eventually leak. Don't see the successes as much - the 15++ year old units that work perfectly with original charge and no leakage.
@@Jon-hx7pe With the widespread use of recovery machines, I see little value to a pump down. Getting out the recovery machine is now just a small part of the necessary equipment.
Yes, service techs only see the failures, but most failures are charge issues due to leaks. Most leaks are at service valves.
This was true when I first worked on A/C units in 1977, and it is still true.
GFM
the only issue i foresee with is now you cant isolate the indoor coil to verify its not leaking
Isolation is eliminated. However, the vast majority of leaks are found in the valve itself.
GFM
On the coast of SC in 10 years it’s time for a new heat pump
Salt water corrosion destroys Everything
The life of a heat pump averages 18 to 20 years. If it is exposed to salt air, much lower due to corrosion.
GFM