Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a MaXpeedingRods Conrods: www.maxpeedingrods.com/category/h-beam-connecting-rods.html?tracking=D4A Coupon code: D4A-get 15% discount for all orders Tools for measuring: 0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set ban.ggood.vip/WVod 50mm-160mm 0.01mm Dial Bore Gauge bit.ly/36jYWQI 35mm-50mm Dial Bore Gauge kit ban.ggood.vip/WVoz
Very good to know. I have a car with a laughably small aftermarket to support it and I'm pleasantly surprised with all of the things coming from your experiences with their parts and it is making me consider some of their parts which are available and/or universal.
@@forevercomputing I am aware of this. However, if MPRods has universal things available that will fit already, that will be far cheaper than bespoke parts.
I really want to see more of this build. Specifically interested in the engine management systems you choose to pull it a together. Love the channel man! I have learned a TON from watching it 😁
😂 0.0001mm? At work, I was installing an axle speed sensor that has a clearance tolerance of 0.020-0.030" - ideally it's set to 0.025". I eyeballed it, and my supervisor was giving me shit over it. I got my feeler gauge out and showed him it was 0.026"... so I now know my eye is off by 0.001"
On average my thumb nails are .017-.018". I like to use them as spark plug gap gauges at the track if i forget feeler gauges lol. Need tight gaps for boosted application
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 Drill bits 'approximately' size the hole, reamers finish the hole. Your Russian wants to know how approximate the bits are - good man.
Good to hear a honest, truthful opinion on these, and highlighting they are good value for money if you aren't going for all out power. Most people overlook cheaper rods because they have been told they must use one of the bigger brand names for a slightly modified engine, and they end up shelling out hard-earned money for something they may not necessarily need for the power level they are achieving.
As a previous engine builder and machine shop grunt i can say ive seen way worse out of round bores and mismatched weights than what you have found here on "cheap sets". Glad the quality has gotten better over the years!
We also did a quality.control on my 20vt set.... just perfect. Within 0.01 gram, perfectly balanced weight and measurements spot on! Great for the money
i remember we used to go to a speed shop, with a micrometer, digital scale and a sharpie, asked the clerk for 3x 4 forged rods or pistons, placed the scale on the counter, and weighted all rods one by one , writing their weight in grams somewhere in them, after selecting the 4 closest weighting rods, we checked with the digital micrometer the tolerances, and if needed checked the last discarded rod from the main group, it took like 1 hour to get a set of near equal rods, then the rest of the afternoon was micro filling with a dremel, then getting all 4 rods to 0.5 gram difference or lower... old times...
not a typo; it's common to express engine balancing values & tolerances in gram-in units. I have 58 yrs experience machining hi-performance engines. nice video. only one suggestion: when torquing rod bolts, we use a special rod vise that clamps across the wider portion of the shanks big end, to prevent the torsional twisting of the rod seen in your video. This increases the accuracy of the torqued clamping load and bore shape. Also in addition to a ft-lb value, we measure rod bolt stretch for even more accuracy. We also check rod straightness & wrist pin bores. Still, you did a good job checking the Maxspeed rods. 👍
As I was watching, I was formulating a question on how the rod bore deviations would translate once the bearings were installed. Then you answered my question in the video. It's like you read my mind!
So I work in a machine shop and regularly gone bores, and we use air gauges with air boxes made by Mercer for tight tolerances. And they are accurate and readable to less than a quarter of a micron at least!
Good to know. Build a little g13bb engine and bought some of these rods a while back. Ran them and they ran good. Never polished my crank tho so had some issues on the bearings creating valleys but after a polish hoping that goes away. Still ran perfect tho
@@madkas14 602rwhp@22psi/ 825rwhp@ 36psi. Ecumaster Emu, E70 blend, vvti 9.5:1 comp ratio, 1400cc injectors, borg warner s366 .91 twin scroll my bro 👊 Im on another 2j build atm, sold the 1 in my DP in 2019
0:40... agree... Initially I thought 1 /10000th isn't impossible....it happens all the time but then I realised that yes, they are stating 1/ 10000th of a millimetre and that is a pretty ridiculous tolerance....
Another great video thanks for sharing, I really appreciate the budget, but effective approach on your measuring equipment (and the rods), most people are on a budget, so spending money in the right places is important.
Ayyy another awesome and well made video incoming!!! :D By that specsheet i'd say the tolerance is a typo. within 0,001 seems more reasonable but is "tight" to say the least. Not measurable at all (usually) in a "garage" since everything needs to be spot on (room temperature exact 20°C? , if it was 15° for that material with 45mm diameter the temperature alone would smack their claimed tolerance out of orbit since it would already by gone by around 0.007425mm *caugh*) well... the TÜV certified material (they mean the base material or the finnished rods?) at least means they should hold up to what is advertised (if they didn't have some . shifting like in the tolerances at least :3) , aka they wont break when V-Tec kicks in yo! The weight differences on those are also quite negligable imo. Counting the pricing of those things in, if you not going for crankshaft bending high HrsPrs or RPMs, those rods are defo a nobrainer. And as always nicley explained. Glad you are around making those videos :) o7
Been running them for more than a year..if you want to complain about stiffness they aren't for you. But the price beats the "get what you pay for" phrase since they have lasted longer than i thought
As a QA inspector in a machine shop, I was cracking up at the 0.0001mm tolerance!😂 great video! I’ve been intrigued by this company and their quality to price ratio. I’m running one of their turbos for $102 and surprisingly it’s just fine! I would have loved to see a Rockwell hardness test done on those rods to see how their steel and heat treat stack up to other high end brands!
From your video and according to your specs from these rods I would have compared them to a set of stock rods because I bet the stock rods would be in the same ballpark .. For the price, these rods are not that bad.... For a super high rpm/hp build... , because the price is so good in theory, could buy another set of these rods pick out the best and go from there to get the best clearances and still be cheaper than most aftermarket rods out there .. That said you mention that the bearing takes up some of "the out of round" rod tolerance, yes but under super high rpm stress, this could lead to spinning a rod bearing.... (that said this is under the max stress of the rod as it flexes under pressure for a low budget moderate build these rods for the price would do much better than a stock rod)
I bought a set for my 5sgte, all were +/- .5 gram on both ends. Biggest big end was .0008" larger than the smallest which I corrected to +/- .0002". Decent rods for the price I'm still goin to run them.
2 years late but, worth a shot. I'm researching these rods to build my own 5sgte and happened to come across your comment. Did you ever finish your build? And how did the rods go? I assume you used 5sfe rods. What pistons did you end up running as well? Sorry for all the questions!
Very Interesting. BTW have you lived in the States? Your technical English is awesome. And on another topic your knowledge of Detroit iron is incredible lol.
Never even been to the US, but I definitely appreciate the kind words. I grew up with Cartoon Network. I picked up the technical lingo through reading and researching. Also, yes English is taught in elementary and high school here (and most of Europe) so that helped too.
@@d4a That's a given for us living in EU. But most people are surprised by that we learn english in school. For me it started in middle school. (My 4th year, i believe) But i gotta say, your speaking english far surpasses mine. Lol. 🖖❤
like usually, very interesting and a lot of technical informations, good job. 0.0001😂 it need a white room to measure it even if we have the right tools.
Easy to measure oil clearance one is you measure the size of the journal that you're working with then you measure the big end or where the bearings go then you use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the bearing shell you can use a ball bearing for the roundness just to track the thickness of the bearing so basically you have your rod bearing thickness times two added to the journal size and then subtract from your big end clearance you'll end up with your oil clearance you can even take your big in clearance add the rod bearing thickness times two again then subtract your general size then you'll end up with your clearance
Bought a td04l from them a few years ago. They sent me a vf52 (not mad about this). It had the mounting holes in the wrong place, so I drilled and tapped new ones. Then it fit perfectly. Ran great for about 2 quarter mile pulls. Blew itself to smithereens on the third. I should have known better. Oh well.
Pop them into a machine shop so you can use the same clearances considering the crank is on the money. A few minutes on the Rod finishing machine will have them within .001
I dont trust myself to do this (by myself).. SO for my Ford Focus I'm thinking about getting the parts and stripping the motor and bring everything to a machine shop. At least at the shop they can do all the measurements
I'm looking for some forged rods for my soon to be turbo charged 3800, it would be nice if Maxpeedingrods has the correct ones. Hopefully they expand their portfolio and start offering some aftermarket aluminum heads. Not to get off point, but I'm hoping I they come up with a turbo I can use on my Grand National. It would be nice if they had something comparable to a Precision 6766.
I haven't checked the rods for the 3800, but they have a few pretty nice turbo options worth looking into. I'll be using their gt28 turbo as a starting turbo for my build. I have a vid on it: ruclips.net/video/slHkYE3XdaU/видео.html
@@d4a Thank you for the link. I have to call you dude because I don't know your name, but thanks for all the great uploads. I along with everyone really appreciate your time and effort and I'm constantly learning something knew. My 2000 Regal GS has a supercharger and it's has 2.77" pulley, the smallest is 2.55", so I'm going to need to turbo it and hopefully by that time I will have my other 3800 engine built and ready to go. I'll probably go with a Maxpeddingrods turbo, if there is one that fits. Your point about buying a less expensive turbo first to see how it works with your setup is a great idea. I am in that boat where I bought a $1000 turbo and it's not quite what I want and people are only offering 300 or $400 for it, even though it has not been ran hard but two or three times. I Maxpeddingrods will expand their product line. In the next year or so, I plan on buying a new turbo for my 2014 Cruze. There is one guy that is running a gt28 turbo I believe and his car it's doing it's job.
Can you confirm that Manley rods are better made overall with tighter tolerances, or is that not the case? Need to make a purchase soon and debating between these, Eagle, and Manley. Thank you.
What happens if you combine carburetors and fuel injection in various combinations? Also, what would a "modern" carburetor look like if somebody decided to make one?
Also important to notice when you measure bearings like that. They are made to be thicker near the gap where the bearing halves meet to squeeze the oil up and down where most of the load resides
@@d4a I noticed a couple of inspired elements! Mine came fairly undersize in a few places, which I wasn't happy with for the engines that I'm building. I've had them all resized and they're perfect now, they've just been pushed to the back of my workbench until I get around to making an update video.
I noticed they werent equipped with oil squirting holes in the big ends like the OEM rods are. How does oil get to the wrist pin lubrication hole and the bore if i dont have dedicated oil squirters like the smallports do?
@@d4a Very informative video, thank you. By now i have ordered the nozzles and valves from japan and have found an engine builder who would do the machining. When you did yours, did you write down any measurements regarding the machine work? Like hole location, how much material to take off when milling the flat surface etc. ? I would really appreciate any information or advice for this :). My project is a late bigport 4AGE and I am using the exact rods you advertised. (Their small ends also had to be enlarged haha, seems to be thing with them). As i am bumping up compression to around 10.5:1 i really want that extra cooling from the sprayers and just depending on oil being splashed around by the rotating assembly to lubricate the components above the crank seems ridiculous to me.
I can definitely tell you're an anime guy as your desire for hentai is strong. Probably a weeb too. I'm guessing you also likely own various promiscuous figurines and pillows. But that's totally ok man, enjoy your hobby, no need to hide it.
.0001mm does not require nasa levels on anything. I'm a aerospace machinist. It's an extremely close tolerance but can easily be held by a good machinist.
A lot of H-Beam style rods are heavier than stock. So, unless you need the theoretical increase in strength, then there isn't much point in my opinion.
I know it would rather expensive and time consuming but I would like to see multiple sets done at the same with the same test to check QC. Even McDonald's gets my order right ever once in awhile.
I know a guy who ordered those aliexpress ones and I had a look at them. The bolts were different on those, no maxp imprint on the bolts and the overall design had some small differences and more rough edges than the maxp rods. Also the small end bushing didn't have a groove in it although the pic on aliexpress showed a groove. I have no idea who makes those on aliexpress, maybe maxp makes those too as a lower cost option, maybe it's an entirely different factory, but I would be a bit concerned over those as you really can't be sure if they're 4340 and if the bolts really are arp.
It's not a guess obviously. You can easily approximate how far between the two lines it is. I may not be accurate to 0.001 but it's still a fairly accurate approximation.
@@d4a circles aren't the only shape that measure the same width at every orientation. There is a whole family of lobed polygons that also measure the same width at every orientation, so measuring width doesn't tell one entirely how circular a shape is. One observable difference is that the midpoint of a cross section of a circle will be the same for every orientation. For other shapes of constant width, the midpoint can deviate. If one can mount a gauge to a spindle, they can check for circularity by measuring the surface as the spindle rotates about an axis normal to the plane of the circle. I am pretty sure this is the method our shop teacher taught us.
One ten thousandth of an inch or .0001” is the standard in the industry for these kinds of measurements. All your factory tolerances for oil clearance go down to a ten thousandth. So not impossible at all.
Those rods are just under $80 apice. My Molnar H-beam connecting rods for a Chrysler 440 were just under $74 each. It sounds like it's an above average price to me.
@@d4aThanks for responding. I guess they give a bulk discount. DH6760YTB8-A I paid a little less than this 18 months ago. molnarrods.com/426-hemi-and-big-block-mopar-connecting-rods-htm
To claim a rod is a good product there is far more to do than measuring big bore end (even if it's a first good step). This is completely usual to machine a bore with +/-0,01mm of tolerance!!! Every machining workshop can do it. Bores parallelism consistency, main alloy composition, material work hardening and forming defects, small end alloy composition, corresponding surfaces roughness, shoot peening quality, lugs tolerance locations, and rod geometry are such parameters which define a good product from a bad one. The main concern with "racing rods" is their bad small end conformability due to the rod geometry. Moreover, due to the product weight reduction, big end bores subsequently bends more than original rods. This can be harmful and cause to crankpin/bearing contact or bearing wear with oil cavitation but in the end it depends on the given geometry... But the lighter is a rod, the more you are lucky to face this issue with boosted engines. Hazard has no place in such precision and critical components :-) I won't deal with the given screws which are probably completely weaker than promised. Give me some I will quickly tell you what is it about.
Only thing I think should be added to this is when doing metrology like this environmental temp should be taken into consideration especially if working in a non climate controlled shop. A 100mm bore can change .02mm per 20 degrees F of temp change. (Obviously material and bore diameter dependent) Your sweater and beanie made me think you're not working in a climate controlled shop. Here most all metrology values are done and listed at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
You definitely have a point. My garage definitely isn't climate controlled, it was around 10-15 Celsius (that's 50-60 Fahrenheit I believe?). When you don't move much it gets cold hence the sweater and cap. I also don't take cold well 😊. When I can I avoid measuring on really cold days as it definitely can impact measurements, but I think this was an ok temp.
This is an incorrect way of measuring the crank bore. You should have torqued the rod around a ground 45mm mandrel, this would represent the crank. The tolerance of the dial indicator is also far to great. You would be better checking twist bend and pitch which is not stated on the on the box (this is the relation of the small end to the large end bore).. Look forward to see more.
I think you're misunderstanding what mass production means. Something that's impractical won't be cost effective for mass production thus making the mass part unfeasible (impossible). It can still be produced but at dramatically reduced quantities and dramatically increased costs pushing the item outside what constitutes mass production.
@@d4a no, you are misunderstanding what the meaning of impossible is. That means not possible. A standard zeiss cmm will measure .001mm and there are machining centers with better than .001mm positional accuracy. So no, impractical sure, impossible, no.
Fair warning! Do not buy the coil over suspension kits for your car from this exact brand! The rear struts are trash! Save your money and buy something higher quality!
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Tools for measuring:
0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set ban.ggood.vip/WVod
50mm-160mm 0.01mm Dial Bore Gauge bit.ly/36jYWQI
35mm-50mm Dial Bore Gauge kit ban.ggood.vip/WVoz
Con rod link is dead
@@SupraSav Fixed, thanks for letting me know.
Thanks for the timestamp to results. I trusted you to measure well and did not need to oversee the process, haha. Prost!
This is approaching Project Farm levels of precision.
PF is seriously one of the best channels ever
@driving 4 answers - probably the best compliment you could get!
This is miles beyond project farm, he actually took multiple measurements and checked the calibration of his tools!
Do you work for Carillo?
69 likes... Nice
I had to laugh at that tolerance, thats pretty close to the acceptable surface roughness of the James Web telescope primary mirror at .000025 mm rms
With those machines you probably can mill your IC onto your custom PCB, no soldering required. :D ^^
Very good to know. I have a car with a laughably small aftermarket to support it and I'm pleasantly surprised with all of the things coming from your experiences with their parts and it is making me consider some of their parts which are available and/or universal.
You can get bespoke parts made for you. The parts aren't available to buy off the shelf because people don't seem to want them.
@@forevercomputing I am aware of this. However, if MPRods has universal things available that will fit already, that will be far cheaper than bespoke parts.
I know they have sweet promotions for influencers, but you are extremely thorough with all this and I absolutely love it.
Others Haven't had the same results 😆
@@dan4age like who?
MaxpeedingRods like the harsher critics because they're always impressed
Yeah I brought these to my machine shop and he checked them for free. He said they were perfect.
So all they need now is a new company name.
ay thanks for using my remix, really appreciate it! and great vid haha!
Literally my first job at a cnc machine shop was doing tolerance tests on con rods. Kind of fun seeing how thorough you were with your tests!
I really want to see more of this build. Specifically interested in the engine management systems you choose to pull it a together. Love the channel man! I have learned a TON from watching it 😁
Did you see my latest post? Most of the parts are in it.
Yessir I have! Notifications are on! Excited too see it come together and the problem solving that goes into it 😁
😂 0.0001mm?
At work, I was installing an axle speed sensor that has a clearance tolerance of 0.020-0.030" - ideally it's set to 0.025".
I eyeballed it, and my supervisor was giving me shit over it. I got my feeler gauge out and showed him it was 0.026"... so I now know my eye is off by 0.001"
Maybe they also eyeball it
@@CytroGhost yup, that's why his supervisor is his supervisor 😁
On average my thumb nails are .017-.018". I like to use them as spark plug gap gauges at the track if i forget feeler gauges lol. Need tight gaps for boosted application
@@sepg5084 old Russian machinist - he measures the drill bit after reading the size stamped in it.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 Drill bits 'approximately' size the hole, reamers finish the hole. Your Russian wants to know how approximate the bits are - good man.
Very impressive for the money! Definitely makes sense for budget enthusiasm.
Lol. Ran into you on TikTok comments today. And now here. Funny seeing we all end up at the same place
@@gabewacker502 Eyyy! We must have good taste.
The arp bolts they use are a custom job for the specific rods. I spoke to arp 2 weeks ago about them
What does that mean
The proof is in the pudding
But at what actual strength compared to regular usual arp2000?
@@AmirPomen They are ARP2000 bolts, same hardness, only custom ordered by maxpeedingrods
Arp2000, just to their rod specs
Good to hear a honest, truthful opinion on these, and highlighting they are good value for money if you aren't going for all out power. Most people overlook cheaper rods because they have been told they must use one of the bigger brand names for a slightly modified engine, and they end up shelling out hard-earned money for something they may not necessarily need for the power level they are achieving.
As a previous engine builder and machine shop grunt i can say ive seen way worse out of round bores and mismatched weights than what you have found here on "cheap sets". Glad the quality has gotten better over the years!
We also did a quality.control on my 20vt set.... just perfect. Within 0.01 gram, perfectly balanced weight and measurements spot on! Great for the money
Thanks for the in depth video.
i remember we used to go to a speed shop, with a micrometer, digital scale and a sharpie, asked the clerk for 3x 4 forged rods or pistons, placed the scale on the counter, and weighted all rods one by one , writing their weight in grams somewhere in them, after selecting the 4 closest weighting rods, we checked with the digital micrometer the tolerances, and if needed checked the last discarded rod from the main group, it took like 1 hour to get a set of near equal rods, then the rest of the afternoon was micro filling with a dremel, then getting all 4 rods to 0.5 gram difference or lower... old times...
Sounds like good times 😁
not a typo; it's common to express engine balancing values & tolerances in gram-in units. I have 58 yrs experience machining hi-performance engines. nice video. only one suggestion: when torquing rod bolts, we use a special rod vise that clamps across the wider portion of the shanks big end, to prevent the torsional twisting of the rod seen in your video. This increases the accuracy of the torqued clamping load and bore shape. Also in addition to a ft-lb value, we measure rod bolt stretch for even more accuracy. We also check rod straightness & wrist pin bores. Still, you did a good job checking the Maxspeed rods. 👍
Thanks. What are gram-in units? It says 0.0001 mm on the website, and such a tolerance on a mass made rod is simply impossible.
I run them on mine. I love them.
The wiseco boostline rods are so pretty😍
Pretty heavy...
And 10x the cost.
I dont give a fuck, they're pretty
NEAT
I got the best looking rods in my town
really want a set of these before i put ITB's and a standalone on my 4EFE, thanks for the review.
As I was watching, I was formulating a question on how the rod bore deviations would translate once the bearings were installed. Then you answered my question in the video. It's like you read my mind!
So I work in a machine shop and regularly gone bores, and we use air gauges with air boxes made by Mercer for tight tolerances. And they are accurate and readable to less than a quarter of a micron at least!
Bro here is leaving a proper review and actually measuring and giving way more information over the "you get what you pay for" approach
Good to know. Build a little g13bb engine and bought some of these rods a while back. Ran them and they ran good. Never polished my crank tho so had some issues on the bearings creating valleys but after a polish hoping that goes away. Still ran perfect tho
that wasn't the crank making thoughs as you can see here those rods have a taper to them or are you blind
@@charlestorruella8591 wtf are you talking about and what does it have to do with my comment? I've ran these rods alot and they are fine
I have used them on 2x 2jz's now. No issues so far.
How much power? I was debating on throwing a set into my IS.
@@madkas14 602rwhp@22psi/ 825rwhp@ 36psi. Ecumaster Emu, E70 blend, vvti 9.5:1 comp ratio, 1400cc injectors, borg warner s366 .91 twin scroll my bro 👊 Im on another 2j build atm, sold the 1 in my DP in 2019
@@slicktop2jz855 great numbers man. I'll have to buy a set in the future, thanks for the reply.
@@madkas14 what pistons did you go with?
@@luismonroy9398 I swapped in some stock ge non vvti pistons and rods, since I don't plan on going past 500whp.
0:40... agree... Initially I thought 1 /10000th isn't impossible....it happens all the time but then I realised that yes, they are stating 1/ 10000th of a millimetre and that is a pretty ridiculous tolerance....
It's one micron. One thousands of a millimeter
Another great video thanks for sharing, I really appreciate the budget, but effective approach on your measuring equipment (and the rods), most people are on a budget, so spending money in the right places is important.
I allways learn more in this channel thank you very mutch.
You are a machine man! :) keep on trucking
Wow, these are incredibly accurate!
Great demonstration and method.
Iam running these for over two years now. They do hold 30 psi at 3000 rpm on my engine. Didn't explode yet, so good deal!
Bearing wear may be a bit uneven just check them every now and then
@@dan4age will do thanks. Tho i forgot to mention that my mashine shop did hone them a bit.
That was fascinating.
Air mic can reach those numbers when measuring. I do this where I work now.
Ayyy another awesome and well made video incoming!!! :D
By that specsheet i'd say the tolerance is a typo. within 0,001 seems more reasonable but is "tight" to say the least. Not measurable at all (usually) in a "garage" since everything needs to be spot on (room temperature exact 20°C? , if it was 15° for that material with 45mm diameter the temperature alone would smack their claimed tolerance out of orbit since it would already by gone by around 0.007425mm *caugh*)
well... the TÜV certified material (they mean the base material or the finnished rods?) at least means they should hold up to what is advertised (if they didn't have some . shifting like in the tolerances at least :3) , aka they wont break when V-Tec kicks in yo!
The weight differences on those are also quite negligable imo. Counting the pricing of those things in, if you not going for crankshaft bending high HrsPrs or RPMs, those rods are defo a nobrainer. And as always nicley explained.
Glad you are around making those videos :) o7
I put some of their adjustable coilovers on my is300 and they're more than great for the value.
Been running them for more than a year..if you want to complain about stiffness they aren't for you. But the price beats the "get what you pay for" phrase since they have lasted longer than i thought
As a QA inspector in a machine shop, I was cracking up at the 0.0001mm tolerance!😂 great video! I’ve been intrigued by this company and their quality to price ratio. I’m running one of their turbos for $102 and surprisingly it’s just fine! I would have loved to see a Rockwell hardness test done on those rods to see how their steel and heat treat stack up to other high end brands!
ruclips.net/video/maE3a_6LUOU/видео.html at 14:20
@@stefanobaretti8948 what did they find? I hard to discern as I am no good at understanding French language. We’re they hard enough?
@@barje.waffles5461MaXpeedingRods are little bit harder than r32 genuine Rods
@@stefanobaretti8948 thank you for taking the time to reply
From your video and according to your specs from these rods I would have compared them to a set of stock rods because I bet the stock rods would be in the same ballpark .. For the price, these rods are not that bad.... For a super high rpm/hp build... , because the price is so good in theory, could buy another set of these rods pick out the best and go from there to get the best clearances and still be cheaper than most aftermarket rods out there .. That said you mention that the bearing takes up some of "the out of round" rod tolerance, yes but under super high rpm stress, this could lead to spinning a rod bearing.... (that said this is under the max stress of the rod as it flexes under pressure for a low budget moderate build these rods for the price would do much better than a stock rod)
Im anticipating this guy is gonna get into maching eventually
stav-tech says there is a guy running 1000hp rb26 on these rods and many more with similar power.
I wouldn't be surprised. If things are done right I doubt these rods would be a weak link.
Yeah Duane McKeever runs these rods on his RB26 drift car.
I bought a set for my 5sgte, all were +/- .5 gram on both ends. Biggest big end was .0008" larger than the smallest which I corrected to +/- .0002". Decent rods for the price I'm still goin to run them.
They're pretty good for Chineseum. Their Shanghai Slingshots are great value too.
2 years late but, worth a shot. I'm researching these rods to build my own 5sgte and happened to come across your comment. Did you ever finish your build? And how did the rods go? I assume you used 5sfe rods. What pistons did you end up running as well? Sorry for all the questions!
Very Interesting. BTW have you lived in the States? Your technical English is awesome. And on another topic your knowledge of Detroit iron is incredible lol.
I would not be surprised if he said No to that question. I bet that in his country they learn english in school aswell. 🖖😇
Never even been to the US, but I definitely appreciate the kind words. I grew up with Cartoon Network. I picked up the technical lingo through reading and researching. Also, yes English is taught in elementary and high school here (and most of Europe) so that helped too.
@@d4a That's a given for us living in EU. But most people are surprised by that we learn english in school. For me it started in middle school. (My 4th year, i believe)
But i gotta say, your speaking english far surpasses mine. Lol. 🖖❤
@@d4a i thought you are from america lol where are you from if you dont mind me to ask?
like usually, very interesting and a lot of technical informations, good job.
0.0001😂 it need a white room to measure it even if we have the right tools.
I still have hard time learning how to measure oil clearance and your measurements you went over.
Easy to measure oil clearance one is you measure the size of the journal that you're working with then you measure the big end or where the bearings go then you use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the bearing shell you can use a ball bearing for the roundness just to track the thickness of the bearing so basically you have your rod bearing thickness times two added to the journal size and then subtract from your big end clearance you'll end up with your oil clearance you can even take your big in clearance add the rod bearing thickness times two again then subtract your general size then you'll end up with your clearance
@@pauljanssen2624 Okay, will keep this for future reference. Thanks Paul :D
Bought a td04l from them a few years ago. They sent me a vf52 (not mad about this). It had the mounting holes in the wrong place, so I drilled and tapped new ones. Then it fit perfectly. Ran great for about 2 quarter mile pulls. Blew itself to smithereens on the third. I should have known better. Oh well.
Pop them into a machine shop so you can use the same clearances considering the crank is on the money. A few minutes on the Rod finishing machine will have them within .001
I dont trust myself to do this (by myself).. SO for my Ford Focus I'm thinking about getting the parts and stripping the motor and bring everything to a machine shop. At least at the shop they can do all the measurements
I have no idea what h's doing but he looks confident sooo
Well done! At Tesla, my CNC lathes can hold 3 to 5 microns all day on the O.D. of a 134mm part. DMG Mori lathes are impressive! Love your content!
@LAD Teknologies average 45% humidity. Room temperature is the bigger variable. That's a tough one.
Too bad you can’t get your panel gaps right and build quality sucks!!
I'm looking for some forged rods for my soon to be turbo charged 3800, it would be nice if Maxpeedingrods has the correct ones. Hopefully they expand their portfolio and start offering some aftermarket aluminum heads. Not to get off point, but I'm hoping I they come up with a turbo I can use on my Grand National. It would be nice if they had something comparable to a Precision 6766.
I haven't checked the rods for the 3800, but they have a few pretty nice turbo options worth looking into. I'll be using their gt28 turbo as a starting turbo for my build. I have a vid on it: ruclips.net/video/slHkYE3XdaU/видео.html
@@d4a Thank you for the link. I have to call you dude because I don't know your name, but thanks for all the great uploads. I along with everyone really appreciate your time and effort and I'm constantly learning something knew. My 2000 Regal GS has a supercharger and it's has 2.77" pulley, the smallest is 2.55", so I'm going to need to turbo it and hopefully by that time I will have my other 3800 engine built and ready to go. I'll probably go with a Maxpeddingrods turbo, if there is one that fits. Your point about buying a less expensive turbo first to see how it works with your setup is a great idea. I am in that boat where I bought a $1000 turbo and it's not quite what I want and people are only offering 300 or $400 for it, even though it has not been ran hard but two or three times. I Maxpeddingrods will expand their product line. In the next year or so, I plan on buying a new turbo for my 2014 Cruze. There is one guy that is running a gt28 turbo I believe and his car it's doing it's job.
Would you trust Maxpeeding rods in a 700-800hp v6?
Great video man!
Very nice video !
Can you confirm that Manley rods are better made overall with tighter tolerances, or is that not the case? Need to make a purchase soon and debating between these, Eagle, and Manley. Thank you.
muy bueno, gracias
What happens if you combine carburetors and fuel injection in various combinations?
Also, what would a "modern" carburetor look like if somebody decided to make one?
Also important to notice when you measure bearings like that. They are made to be thicker near the gap where the bearing halves meet to squeeze the oil up and down where most of the load resides
Want more videos on car sensors, networking & electrical systems
Could you make a video about the famous Nissan RB26DET engine?
awesome content. Thank you for sharing.
Hey this video feels familiar! You've done a much more polished version of it than I did haha
I watched yours! Michael the micrometer. I'll never forget that. I didn't look over the dimensions, but I noticed you didn't like them?
@@d4a I noticed a couple of inspired elements!
Mine came fairly undersize in a few places, which I wasn't happy with for the engines that I'm building. I've had them all resized and they're perfect now, they've just been pushed to the back of my workbench until I get around to making an update video.
For the price..atleast your particular set... Its pretty damm close tolerance..
As for rod 2..maybe u can do just 1 pass with 2000grit sandpaper?
I'm doing the exact same build but 4afe 1st gen with 7afe second gen head and a set of 4agelc pistons
Sounds like a good combo of parts. Compression ratio high with 4agelc pistons?
Did you check the small end?
Great video
I noticed they werent equipped with oil squirting holes in the big ends like the OEM rods are. How does oil get to the wrist pin lubrication hole and the bore if i dont have dedicated oil squirters like the smallports do?
You make them: ruclips.net/video/FsGwMN9Q0Tk/видео.html
@@d4a Very informative video, thank you. By now i have ordered the nozzles and valves from japan and have found an engine builder who would do the machining. When you did yours, did you write down any measurements regarding the machine work? Like hole location, how much material to take off when milling the flat surface etc. ? I would really appreciate any information or advice for this :). My project is a late bigport 4AGE and I am using the exact rods you advertised. (Their small ends also had to be enlarged haha, seems to be thing with them). As i am bumping up compression to around 10.5:1 i really want that extra cooling from the sprayers and just depending on oil being splashed around by the rotating assembly to lubricate the components above the crank seems ridiculous to me.
WHICH CRANK WILL U BE USING ON YOUR SETUP
Please make a video on 'Suzuki M engines'
I wasn't ready for D4A to blast Vaporwave
I put Nagatoro on a digital dash... There are no limits anymore 😂
@@d4a no limit would have been putting straight up hentai
Ps: I'm not an anime guy, no clues who she is
I can definitely tell you're an anime guy as your desire for hentai is strong. Probably a weeb too. I'm guessing you also likely own various promiscuous figurines and pillows. But that's totally ok man, enjoy your hobby, no need to hide it.
@@d4a oh shit i'm exposed lol
.0001mm does not require nasa levels on anything. I'm a aerospace machinist. It's an extremely close tolerance but can easily be held by a good machinist.
Sure it can 😉
Music is nice
What bolts came with the rods... as this seems to be where the price difference is with cheap aftermarket rods
ARP 2000
Dude you content is fucking amazing 😁👍
A lot of H-Beam style rods are heavier than stock. So, unless you need the theoretical increase in strength, then there isn't much point in my opinion.
MaXpeedingRods are way heavier than most competition. Cheaper because less R&D.
I know it would rather expensive and time consuming but I would like to see multiple sets done at the same with the same test to check QC. Even McDonald's gets my order right ever once in awhile.
Considering that these guys often "sponsor" RUclipsrs, wouldn't surprise me if they hand picked some of the best ones and sent them to him.
Are those MaXpeeding Rods the same ones we can find on Aliexpress?
I know a guy who ordered those aliexpress ones and I had a look at them. The bolts were different on those, no maxp imprint on the bolts and the overall design had some small differences and more rough edges than the maxp rods. Also the small end bushing didn't have a groove in it although the pic on aliexpress showed a groove. I have no idea who makes those on aliexpress, maybe maxp makes those too as a lower cost option, maybe it's an entirely different factory, but I would be a bit concerned over those as you really can't be sure if they're 4340 and if the bolts really are arp.
used them in a subaru if it can last in there there good lol
does anyone have a 1 year test review? i seem to be leaning to get stuff from this company except for the turbos
Your dial indicator reads to two decimal places how did you decide on the third decimal place you wrote over the video? A guess?
It's not a guess obviously. You can easily approximate how far between the two lines it is. I may not be accurate to 0.001 but it's still a fairly accurate approximation.
for me just need same weight rod & same oil clearence
How do you know it is round and not just a shape of constant width?
Huh?
@@d4a circles aren't the only shape that measure the same width at every orientation. There is a whole family of lobed polygons that also measure the same width at every orientation, so measuring width doesn't tell one entirely how circular a shape is.
One observable difference is that the midpoint of a cross section of a circle will be the same for every orientation. For other shapes of constant width, the midpoint can deviate.
If one can mount a gauge to a spindle, they can check for circularity by measuring the surface as the spindle rotates about an axis normal to the plane of the circle. I am pretty sure this is the method our shop teacher taught us.
Who did that sound track?
Links in the description
It looks like your measurements are a guesstimate to me how do you know your dial gauge is perfectly square?
Did you actually watch the video?
Would you know by any chance what the weight of your oem rod is?
526 grams
@@d4anice, good bit of difference there
I agree that one thousand of a mm would be impossible... and of an inch would be near impossible aswell. I bet it is a typo.
One ten thousandth of an inch or .0001” is the standard in the industry for these kinds of measurements. All your factory tolerances for oil clearance go down to a ten thousandth. So not impossible at all.
Those rods are just under $80 apice. My Molnar H-beam connecting rods for a Chrysler 440 were just under $74 each. It sounds like it's an above average price to me.
I don't know where you scored them at that price but that was a good score. Here's what they actually cost: molnarrods.com/toyota-4age-connecting-rods
@@d4aThanks for responding.
I guess they give a bulk discount. DH6760YTB8-A
I paid a little less than this 18 months ago.
molnarrods.com/426-hemi-and-big-block-mopar-connecting-rods-htm
@@d4a Might be cheaper to get a custom crank & pistons that use Small Block Chevy rods and build 2! lol
MTI DH6760YTB8-A 6.760"X.990" STD MOPAR JRNL 2.375" EA 1.00 0.00 1.00 $615.54 $615.54
UPS GROUND $30.52
ITEM WILL BE DROP-SHIPPED
ONCE MOLNAR INVENTORY IS
REPLENISHED
12/02/2019 - DEPOSIT - Pay Pal ($646.06)
To claim a rod is a good product there is far more to do than measuring big bore end (even if it's a first good step). This is completely usual to machine a bore with +/-0,01mm of tolerance!!!
Every machining workshop can do it.
Bores parallelism consistency, main alloy composition, material work hardening and forming defects, small end alloy composition, corresponding surfaces roughness, shoot peening quality, lugs tolerance locations, and rod geometry are such parameters which define a good product from a bad one.
The main concern with "racing rods" is their bad small end conformability due to the rod geometry. Moreover, due to the product weight reduction, big end bores subsequently bends more than original rods. This can be harmful and cause to crankpin/bearing contact or bearing wear with oil cavitation but in the end it depends on the given geometry... But the lighter is a rod, the more you are lucky to face this issue with boosted engines.
Hazard has no place in such precision and critical components :-)
I won't deal with the given screws which are probably completely weaker than promised. Give me some I will quickly tell you what is it about.
Only thing I think should be added to this is when doing metrology like this environmental temp should be taken into consideration especially if working in a non climate controlled shop. A 100mm bore can change .02mm per 20 degrees F of temp change. (Obviously material and bore diameter dependent) Your sweater and beanie made me think you're not working in a climate controlled shop. Here most all metrology values are done and listed at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
You definitely have a point. My garage definitely isn't climate controlled, it was around 10-15 Celsius (that's 50-60 Fahrenheit I believe?). When you don't move much it gets cold hence the sweater and cap. I also don't take cold well 😊. When I can I avoid measuring on really cold days as it definitely can impact measurements, but I think this was an ok temp.
But if yoir using full synthetic oil you should be ok
This is an incorrect way of measuring the crank bore. You should have torqued the rod around a ground 45mm mandrel, this would represent the crank. The tolerance of the dial indicator is also far to great.
You would be better checking twist bend and pitch which is not stated on the on the box (this is the relation of the small end to the large end bore).. Look forward to see more.
Why wouldn't they. They are all made in the same place!!!!!
That torerance is certainly not impossible. But is it highly unlikely anyone would go to those lengths for a budget rod.
It's impossible (unrealistic and impractical) for any mass produced rod, budget or otherwise.
@@d4a I think you are confusing impossible with impractical.
I think you're misunderstanding what mass production means. Something that's impractical won't be cost effective for mass production thus making the mass part unfeasible (impossible). It can still be produced but at dramatically reduced quantities and dramatically increased costs pushing the item outside what constitutes mass production.
@@d4a no, you are misunderstanding what the meaning of impossible is. That means not possible. A standard zeiss cmm will measure .001mm and there are machining centers with better than .001mm positional accuracy. So no, impractical sure, impossible, no.
@@dustinandtarynwolfe5540 Did I say it can't be measured? You're deliberately ignoring what I'm saying.
Fair warning! Do not buy the coil over suspension kits for your car from this exact brand! The rear struts are trash! Save your money and buy something higher quality!
Frankly, any aftermarket Coil-Over-Suspension kit is trash.
Buy the original one.
I'd think that touching the metal by hand would induce enough heat to get slightly out of shape. 😬 Probably not enough to be of any significance?
Not at 0.001". Especially when not touching the surface directly. Only a potential problem when dealing with 0.0001" measurements
@@1uzfe Thanks! 👍
Yeah that’s a tenth of a Micron. That’s an impossible tolerance, And in inches you can’t even measure that normally. Good catch
1 micron tolerance lmao. that would be a mirror finish
No need for nasa equipment. Mitutoyo make a micrometer that will resolve 0.0001mm. They’ll sell it to you for 1500 USD
But how should I measure bores with a micrometer?