This is my new store if you need some golf cart parts. Click on the link below. Or if you just want to support my channel. golf-cart-whisperer-shop.fourthwall.com/?source=dashboard
Wanted to just thankyou for how you explain as you go, you’re more helpful than I can describe. I was looking for a different answer but you answered it because of how you explain each part of the process. Again, thankyou..
Yea sir. Thanks for the words. I noticed when I do videos sometimes. I just assume everybody knows what’s bad. So this time I did a better explanation of what could be bad. Still new to you tube. Thanks for the words again I’ll make more videos like this. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
@@billmackey1072 yes sir. Thanks for the advice. I talk naturally. But when I do a you tube video I try to slow down and talk slower. Glad it helped. Hit that lie and subscribe button for me.
It's the best video I have seen. Thank you for redoing your video and dumbing it down for people who need help understanding how to use a multimeter. So far, my 2000 EZGO PDS golf cart has yet to do anything. No sounds at all when turning on the key. I have replaced the controller twice, the key switch, and run the tow switch. I order all remaining micro switches, solenoids, and a new wiring harness, and I will replace them individually. But I want to watch this step-by-step video and not have to replace more than I need to. I hope to identify the problem. What happened was I put 2 12-volt chargers on 2 sets of batteries but did not remove any of the cables. I blew the fuse that was running from the frame to the ground. (32v 30amp). It has yet to run since.
@@raymondbower9754 what you did with the battery chargers is nothing wrong. You did good on that part. Make sure you have no wires hooked to the frame from the batteries!!!
@@Golfcartwhisperer So I removed that ground. Watching your new video, and after a New Controller, new solenoid, new run tow-switch, and here are the readings on it, the same as the one I replaced. Both reds are constant 39.9v red/white with little to no voltage, and the same is true with yellow, with a key on and in the run position. The key off red/white goes to 27v, and the key off yellow goes to .004v. I am so confused. Any ideas on which to replace next? I bought them all, I believe. I think it may be the wiring harness, do not know why I believe that, but mainly because I tested the resistors and micro switch independently, and they were all good, including the solenoid.
@@raymondbower9754 when you hit the gas. Does the blue wire on the solenoid show negative voltage. Red lead on main positive black lead on blue wire. Also what does the harness show as far as voltage on the 4 pin plug on the front bottom. Put black lead on main negative and red lead in these wires one at a time key on in forward.
@@Golfcartwhisperer Let me try to explain this again. I'm colorblind, so here is my description. The two wires on the right, top and bottom on the old and new switch, have constant voltage. The other two, no matter what, have little voltage. So, I wired the top two together, and the cart went forward. I wired the bottom two, and the cart went in reverse with a beeper sound. So, then I wired only the two hots (on the right side of the 4-pin run tow switch), and now, with the switch in the on position, all 4 have constant voltage at the controller, and the cart runs. Now I tried the above suggestion and no, the blue wire does not go into negative voltage.
My 36V EZGO TXT won't move. Solenoid won't click (just put a new on in). I tested everything you showed us and it all checks out good except for the white wire going to the ITS is only 4.6V, not 14V. Also the backup alarm is not working. I appreciate your videos. They are really helpful!
I'm having the same issue. I went through the entire troubleshooting and I have power in the correct locations. I have a brand new solenoid, batteries and computer I'm leaning towards possibly the motor is bad. But I'm not sure how to check it. Same cart in your video. I also get the ramp up in voltage on the A1 when pedal is applied.
Four pin connector from the top green, red, black, white. The black pin needs to have power?? I have no power, solenoid clicks once, cart won't move, no voltage from pos to solenoid blue wire. Solenoid only clicks once per key cycle. I need to turn key off for it to click again when pressing throttle. Thoughts?
you have voltage on the yellow wire small post on the sol. Black lead on main negative. Of meter. Red lead of meter on small post solenoid yellow wire what do you get. Also the 4 pin plug your talking about what voltage do you have on white wire. .
Wow, okay again. I can't thank you enough for the help. I removed the reed switch terminal from the Lester Summit II charger and connected it directly to the battery post. The run tow switch's voltage is the same when it is on, and #4 goes much lower when off. The bottom left 2 wires on the 10-pin are both 39.7v. The golf cart runs even with the old run/tow switch. I bet my original controller and solenoid are good, and I have been doing all this for 2 weeks now, and it was just that wire. Will that wire stay there permanently? Shame I cannot insert a photo here.
@@Golfcartwhisperer So RUclips removed my remark, I see. Anyway, the charger is just fine without that wire, and I put back all the old parts (controller, solenoid, and run/tow switch), and everything works better than expected. It is like I made a gear adjustment to make it go faster!
Every thing on my cart checks out to your video except the very last test of the large wire with a green heat shrink, it will not creep up, it sits at 5 volts. Biggest wire upper right. Bad controller?
Great video but I have a question. I have two new controllers and a new key switch. When I plug JUST the 10 pin and the run/tow switch, I get voltage coming out of both white and white/yellow wires. However when I hook the b+, b- etc up to the controller, I get 0 volts from the ignition wires. Swapped the controllers and same issue. I get voltage out when just 10 pin and run/tow are in, but once fully hooked up I lose it. Any ideas?
@@motoxxxloak so this here hook the controller up like it should be and run you a wire from main positive to the small post on solenoid yellow wire. Key on in run hit gas see if cart runs
My pds is running about 5mph I can hit the fwd rev switch while rolling or turn the key switch off and back on while rolling and it will drive like normal. I've replaced several thing pretty much everything but the motor
@@chadclm thanks for commenting. Hit that like and subscribe button for me. A common problem that causes the cart to run slow. Is a stuck solenoid. Or the tow switch is going bad. And only allowing 1/2 voltage. Motor wouldn’t cause it to run halve speed sometimes. I would say you’re loosing halve voltage somewhere. Or your solenoid is welded. Even though it clicks in and out. It could still be welded.
Thanks for the video. I checked my run tow switch, and did not have power in all wires. So I taped all 4 wires together and it runs fine. I have bought two new switches and neither will work. Do I have to change wires around on new switch? It's after market switch with harness from Amazon 15 dollars . Any advice would be very appreciated .
I have a two seater that we converted to a 4 seater. I added stronger leaf springs as well but it does not have a true "lift kit" installed. I recently put 6 brand new powertron golf cart batteries. When the batteries are fully charged, with a max weight of less than 500 pounds of people, the cart is getting a max range of 10 miles per fully charged. The batteries are less than 3 months old, and we were getting a lot longer distance with the older batteries. Do I have a bad battery, do I have a failing motor, suggestions? The cart also feels it has a short in it and will "beep" 3 times and stop running. You will have to release the pedal and reengage for it to go again. The startup acceleration is poor also. I checked each battery 24+ hours post a “full” charge. 5 of the 6 showed 6.4 while one showed 6.1. I checked again while charging and the 5 of 6 showed 7.4 but the other one showed 6.8. Any thoughts?
The 3 beep is a bad connection somewhere. Or weak battery voltage. When the cart quits that’s when you check voltage. Hold your foot in the brake and the gas and test each battery like that. Make sure all your wires are tight. And make sure all your connections are good.
Great videos. Really helping me learn, but I still can’t figure out my problem. I tested all the voltages like you said, and they all tested as they should. But, when I test my M- and press down on the throttle, the voltages jump all over the place. And now my solenoid isn’t clicking unless I shut the key off and back on. Any ideas?
When the cart doesn’t run. Does all the voltages check good? If so replace controller. On m- you said it shows all over the place. What voltage do you get.
When the sol isn’t check your voltage on the it’s. The black and white wire going to the floorboard. And tell me what you get. Normally there’s several things that cause intermittent running. Harness, its in floorboard, solenoid or tow switch
Red wire on main positive and black wire on m- it shows .4v at the beginning and when I press down on gas the volt meter jumps all over the place 3 to 5 to 0 to 7 to 18 to 6.
@@Golfcartwhisperer Mine doesn't run. So I'm just going down a list of items to trouble shoot to find out what it is. I'm for sure it's not batteries and battery cables, but I'm going through all the checks you listed in the video to isolate the problem.
Hey golf cart whisperer I have a 99 ezgo txt that has a navitas controller the controller keeps threw a code that says battery voltage to low for current being drawn charge batteries soon after a while of driving cart I talk to navitas support they said the controller was good that it could possible be the solenoid that doesn’t work anymore or something to do with batteries any idea on what it could be?
@@Golfcartwhisperer no it drives good for about 30 minutes or so and then after that, it kind of reduces power it doesn’t go as fast anymore. Batteries are only two years old and solenoid. I don’t know when was last replaced , but they told me that it could possibly be the solenoid, but my experiences with the solenoid have been that the car doesn’t work at all, so I don’t know if it’s the solenoid or not
If everything checks good besides the blue wire on the solenoid. Could the solenoid also be bad? I have tired two new controllers and this second one everything checks good besides that. My 2013 txt won’t do anything but everything else checks good. Thanks
So this test here. Make you a jumper wire and run it from the main negative to the blue wire. But don’t touch it to the blue wire u til you hit the gas. So while you hold the gas down. Touch it to the small post on solenoid blue wire and see if clicks. Your carts a 36 volt correct
@ I believe so. The controllers are compatible with the Curtis 73326g02 that was original on it. I bought it with no info and 2 year old batteries that have never been hooked up
Yes, if you have voltage on the small wire on the solenoid beside the blue wire and then you gave the blue wire ground and it didn’t run replace solenoid
I installed a new (made in China) controller and the cart started. After putting the cover back on, it would not run and when I took the cover back off I found the resistor on the solenoid was extremely hot. Any ideas why?
@@timothybuckner4885 all the resistor does is keep the capacitors inside the controller charged. When you took the. Over back off did the cart run. Also what type of cart do you have
@@Golfcartwhisperer It is an EZGO 2004 PDS . I did all of the tests you show in this video and determined it was the controller. I installed a new controller and the motor started. I put the cover back on and It would not run. I took the cover back off and discovered the resistor was hot and actually melted against the controller box.
@@Sparkyz480 yes sir thanks for watching and commenting. If all voltages check like in the video and no voltage coming out replace controller. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
Same thing except mine will go to 17v and then the solenoid click and it stops…let the pedal off and start again it will go back up to 17 Still a Controller issue?
Got an ez go txt that goes forward just fine. It hesitates and struggles to go in reverse. It starts very slowly until it can pick up speed. Is that a controller issue?
It's an 04 txt series 36 volt. Changed the controller and FNR and magnetic switch in floorboard. Will go forward just fine, but struggles alot going in reverse
It's not the half speed for reverse. It barely moves, and once it gets going, it will go. I've never encountered something like this. It's almost as if there's plenty of power to go forward, but it can't draw enough power to get going in reverse
@@Golfcartwhisperer I followed your video and all was working until I got to checking the pedal microswitch where it failed. Do you know if I have to remove the floorboard (is it hard?) to replace it or do you do it from underneath. Thanks. I could not have found the problem with out you
Also. Make sure you have voltage in all 4 wires from tow switch plus make sure on the main harness that you have voltage on the 2 red wires on the bottom left For these test put volt meter dc 200 keep black lead on main negative all the time during the test.
I have battery voltage on all 4 wires at the tow switch and on the 2 red wires on the 10 pin plug just nothing at the white wire and white and yellow wire. Are you talking about running a jumper to the yellow wire on the solenoid?
@@meymey35 that’s right then. Then the controller send battery voltage out the white wire to the key switch. Could be a bad controller. But tell me what happens when you run that jumper wire.
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This is my new store if you need some golf cart parts. Click on the link below. Or if you just want to support my channel.
golf-cart-whisperer-shop.fourthwall.com/?source=dashboard
This is a great video for somebody who is looking to troubleshoot their cart. Straight and to the point, no BS. Thank you.
Yes sir thanks for the comment. 👊
Wanted to just thankyou for how you explain as you go, you’re more helpful than I can describe. I was looking for a different answer but you answered it because of how you explain each part of the process. Again, thankyou..
Yea sir. Thanks for the words. I noticed when I do videos sometimes. I just assume everybody knows what’s bad. So this time I did a better explanation of what could be bad. Still new to you tube. Thanks for the words again I’ll make more videos like this. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
thanks for being patient and slowing down for us. you just helped me find the bad controller in a 36v txt. it would run than die. much appreciated.
@@billmackey1072 yes sir. Thanks for the advice. I talk naturally. But when I do a you tube video I try to slow down and talk slower. Glad it helped. Hit that lie and subscribe button for me.
It's the best video I have seen. Thank you for redoing your video and dumbing it down for people who need help understanding how to use a multimeter. So far, my 2000 EZGO PDS golf cart has yet to do anything. No sounds at all when turning on the key. I have replaced the controller twice, the key switch, and run the tow switch. I order all remaining micro switches, solenoids, and a new wiring harness, and I will replace them individually. But I want to watch this step-by-step video and not have to replace more than I need to. I hope to identify the problem.
What happened was I put 2 12-volt chargers on 2 sets of batteries but did not remove any of the cables. I blew the fuse that was running from the frame to the ground. (32v 30amp). It has yet to run since.
@@raymondbower9754 you should never have a wire running from your batteries to your frame. EVER!!!!!
@@raymondbower9754 what you did with the battery chargers is nothing wrong. You did good on that part. Make sure you have no wires hooked to the frame from the batteries!!!
@@Golfcartwhisperer So I removed that ground.
Watching your new video, and after a New Controller, new solenoid, new run tow-switch, and here are the readings on it, the same as the one I replaced. Both reds are constant 39.9v red/white with little to no voltage, and the same is true with yellow, with a key on and in the run position. The key off red/white goes to 27v, and the key off yellow goes to .004v. I am so confused. Any ideas on which to replace next? I bought them all, I believe. I think it may be the wiring harness, do not know why I believe that, but mainly because I tested the resistors and micro switch independently, and they were all good, including the solenoid.
@@raymondbower9754 when you hit the gas. Does the blue wire on the solenoid show negative voltage. Red lead on main positive black lead on blue wire. Also what does the harness show as far as voltage on the 4 pin plug on the front bottom. Put black lead on main negative and red lead in these wires one at a time key on in forward.
@@Golfcartwhisperer Let me try to explain this again. I'm colorblind, so here is my description. The two wires on the right, top and bottom on the old and new switch, have constant voltage. The other two, no matter what, have little voltage. So, I wired the top two together, and the cart went forward. I wired the bottom two, and the cart went in reverse with a beeper sound. So, then I wired only the two hots (on the right side of the 4-pin run tow switch), and now, with the switch in the on position, all 4 have constant voltage at the controller, and the cart runs. Now I tried the above suggestion and no, the blue wire does not go into negative voltage.
My 36V EZGO TXT won't move. Solenoid won't click (just put a new on in). I tested everything you showed us and it all checks out good except for the white wire going to the ITS is only 4.6V, not 14V. Also the backup alarm is not working. I appreciate your videos. They are really helpful!
@@chriseaton8453 what’s the black wire show going to the its
@@Golfcartwhisperer 0.37v and 0.78v with the petal on the floor.
If All voltages check right beside. The it’s. Replace controller
I'm having the same issue. I went through the entire troubleshooting and I have power in the correct locations. I have a brand new solenoid, batteries and computer I'm leaning towards possibly the motor is bad. But I'm not sure how to check it. Same cart in your video. I also get the ramp up in voltage on the A1 when pedal is applied.
Okay then every thing is doing its job. Does your solenoid click in when press the gas. And then stayed engaged until you let go of the gas.
I have no voltage coming off the PDS first white wire for the key switch. No power on either white wires key on or off. Any suggestions? Thanks!
@@robertlavery7219 yea sir. Run you a wire from main positive to the yellow wire on the solenoid small post and see if the cart runs
Four pin connector from the top green, red, black, white. The black pin needs to have power?? I have no power, solenoid clicks once, cart won't move, no voltage from pos to solenoid blue wire. Solenoid only clicks once per key cycle. I need to turn key off for it to click again when pressing throttle. Thoughts?
you have voltage on the yellow wire small post on the sol. Black lead on main negative. Of meter. Red lead of meter on small post solenoid yellow wire what do you get. Also the 4 pin plug your talking about what voltage do you have on white wire. .
Thank you for taking the time to respond and sharing info with the rest of us.
@@hashtagjustadad5110 yes sir. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hit like and subscribe for me.
@@Golfcartwhisperer you earned a sub!
Thank you sir. If you ever have any questions. Feel free to ask
Wow, okay again. I can't thank you enough for the help. I removed the reed switch terminal from the Lester Summit II charger and connected it directly to the battery post. The run tow switch's voltage is the same when it is on, and #4 goes much lower when off. The bottom left 2 wires on the 10-pin are both 39.7v. The golf cart runs even with the old run/tow switch. I bet my original controller and solenoid are good, and I have been doing all this for 2 weeks now, and it was just that wire. Will that wire stay there permanently? Shame I cannot insert a photo here.
Yes the wire will stay there permanently. Np man. Glad we got it fixed. Does the charger still work?
I didn’t think to check that. Will do here in a while.
@@Golfcartwhisperer So RUclips removed my remark, I see. Anyway, the charger is just fine without that wire, and I put back all the old parts (controller, solenoid, and run/tow switch), and everything works better than expected. It is like I made a gear adjustment to make it go faster!
@@raymondbower9754 lol. That’s good I would just leave it like that then
Every thing on my cart checks out to your video except the very last test of the large wire with a green heat shrink, it will not creep up, it sits at 5 volts. Biggest wire upper right.
Bad controller?
@@richardbingel1575 yes if all other voltages check out right. And the solenoid is clicking and showing voltage going across it.
Great video but I have a question. I have two new controllers and a new key switch. When I plug JUST the 10 pin and the run/tow switch, I get voltage coming out of both white and white/yellow wires.
However when I hook the b+, b- etc up to the controller, I get 0 volts from the ignition wires.
Swapped the controllers and same issue. I get voltage out when just 10 pin and run/tow are in, but once fully hooked up I lose it.
Any ideas?
@@motoxxxloak do you have it in run with the key one.
@@motoxxxloak are you testing them wires with the black lead on main negative.
@@motoxxxloak so this here hook the controller up like it should be and run you a wire from main positive to the small post on solenoid yellow wire. Key on in run hit gas see if cart runs
I should also add that reed switch has been bypassed and the red and red/white wire from the harness have full voltage
Yes, key is on and tow switch is on. My Tow switch is good as well per your tests.
My pds is running about 5mph I can hit the fwd rev switch while rolling or turn the key switch off and back on while rolling and it will drive like normal. I've replaced several thing pretty much everything but the motor
Replaced the speed sensor controller both twice. Fwd rev switch key and the throttle sensor under the mat
@@chadclm thanks for commenting. Hit that like and subscribe button for me. A common problem that causes the cart to run slow. Is a stuck solenoid. Or the tow switch is going bad. And only allowing 1/2 voltage. Motor wouldn’t cause it to run halve speed sometimes. I would say you’re loosing halve voltage somewhere. Or your solenoid is welded. Even though it clicks in and out. It could still be welded.
Thanks for the video. I checked my run tow switch, and did not have power in all wires. So I taped all 4 wires together and it runs fine. I have bought two new switches and neither will work. Do I have to change wires around on new switch? It's after market switch with harness from Amazon 15 dollars . Any advice would be very appreciated .
Thanks for watching and commenting. Hit that like button for me. Are you sure you have it wired back right. If wired wrong definitely won’t run. .
@@Golfcartwhisperer It already was wired with harness on it. It's an on and off switch with 4 prong harness. It's a 2000 Ezgo
@@SteadfastMinistry1227 red/white wire should be across from orange/red
And then red across from red/yellow
@@SteadfastMinistry1227 check the wiring and make sure it’s like that
@@Golfcartwhisperer OK I'll check Thanks again for the video. Best one I've come across with explanations on what you're doing. 👍
I have a two seater that we converted to a 4 seater. I added stronger leaf springs as well but it does not have a true "lift kit" installed. I recently put 6 brand new powertron golf cart batteries. When the batteries are fully charged, with a max weight of less than 500 pounds of people, the cart is getting a max range of 10 miles per fully charged. The batteries are less than 3 months old, and we were getting a lot longer distance with the older batteries. Do I have a bad battery, do I have a failing motor, suggestions? The cart also feels it has a short in it and will "beep" 3 times and stop running. You will have to release the pedal and reengage for it to go again. The startup acceleration is poor also.
I checked each battery 24+ hours post a “full” charge. 5 of the 6 showed 6.4 while one showed 6.1. I checked again while charging and the 5 of 6 showed 7.4 but the other one showed 6.8.
Any thoughts?
What type of cart do you have 36 or 48. Sounds like you have a 36 volt
@@Golfcartwhisperer Yes it is a 36 V.
The 3 beep is a bad connection somewhere. Or weak battery voltage. When the cart quits that’s when you check voltage. Hold your foot in the brake and the gas and test each battery like that. Make sure all your wires are tight. And make sure all your connections are good.
Great videos. Really helping me learn, but I still can’t figure out my problem. I tested all the voltages like you said, and they all tested as they should. But, when I test my M- and press down on the throttle, the voltages jump all over the place. And now my solenoid isn’t clicking unless I shut the key off and back on. Any ideas?
36v ezgo pds
I replaced the controller, but that didn’t solve it.
When the cart doesn’t run. Does all the voltages check good? If so replace controller. On m- you said it shows all over the place. What voltage do you get.
When the sol isn’t check your voltage on the it’s. The black and white wire going to the floorboard. And tell me what you get. Normally there’s several things that cause intermittent running. Harness, its in floorboard, solenoid or tow switch
Red wire on main positive and black wire on m- it shows .4v at the beginning and when I press down on gas the volt meter jumps all over the place 3 to 5 to 0 to 7 to 18 to 6.
Thank you for the video! If my M negative is reading voltage before I apply the accelerator what does that mean?
@@halmclelland667 nothing it’s just dead voltage.
@@halmclelland667 what problem are you having
@@Golfcartwhisperer Mine doesn't run. So I'm just going down a list of items to trouble shoot to find out what it is. I'm for sure it's not batteries and battery cables, but I'm going through all the checks you listed in the video to isolate the problem.
Gotcha. If need any help let me know
Great job man you really know that wiring💪
@@stevenakn1 thanks man
Should that little red wire from the back of the charger be 36 volts?
Yes, to bypass it cut it. Then, hook the main harness side straight to the main positive battery.
Also on the run/tow switch. I’ve got 36 volts on the top two wires and only 12 volts on the bottom two?
Run you a wire from the main positive on batteries to the small post on solenoid that has the yellow wire and tell me if it runs
@@jojizzle318 test #2also flip the tow switch to tow what do the tow switch wires show for voltage
@@Golfcartwhisperer I’m gonna try this tomorrow when I get home from work and I’ll let you know
Hey golf cart whisperer I have a 99 ezgo txt that has a navitas controller the controller keeps threw a code that says battery voltage to low for current being drawn charge batteries soon after a while of driving cart I talk to navitas support they said the controller was good that it could possible be the solenoid that doesn’t work anymore or something to do with batteries any idea on what it could be?
@@SandraPerez-vu1wc I am busy I’ll read an answer back in about 1 hour
@@Golfcartwhisperer 👍
@@SandraPerez-vu1wc you have a pds
@@SandraPerez-vu1wc so what is it doing just driving then shutting off and beeping
@@Golfcartwhisperer no it drives good for about 30 minutes or so and then after that, it kind of reduces power it doesn’t go as fast anymore. Batteries are only two years old and solenoid. I don’t know when was last replaced , but they told me that it could possibly be the solenoid, but my experiences with the solenoid have been that the car doesn’t work at all, so I don’t know if it’s the solenoid or not
If everything checks good besides the blue wire on the solenoid. Could the solenoid also be bad? I have tired two new controllers and this second one everything checks good besides that. My 2013 txt won’t do anything but everything else checks good. Thanks
So this test here. Make you a jumper wire and run it from the main negative to the blue wire. But don’t touch it to the blue wire u til you hit the gas. So while you hold the gas down. Touch it to the small post on solenoid blue wire and see if clicks. Your carts a 36 volt correct
@ I believe so. The controllers are compatible with the Curtis 73326g02 that was original on it. I bought it with no info and 2 year old batteries that have never been hooked up
@@Golfcartwhisperer no click with jumper , just spark
Yes, if you have voltage on the small wire on the solenoid beside the blue wire and then you gave the blue wire ground and it didn’t run replace solenoid
Let me know the outcome
I installed a new (made in China) controller and the cart started. After putting the cover back on, it would not run and when I took the cover back off I found the resistor on the solenoid was extremely hot. Any ideas why?
@@timothybuckner4885 all the resistor does is keep the capacitors inside the controller charged. When you took the. Over back off did the cart run. Also what type of cart do you have
@@Golfcartwhisperer It is an EZGO 2004 PDS . I did all of the tests you show in this video and determined it was the controller. I installed a new controller and the motor started. I put the cover back on and It would not run. I took the cover back off and discovered the resistor was hot and actually melted against the controller box.
@@timothybuckner4885 that means something in the. Controller is shorted.
@@Golfcartwhisperer Thank you, that is what I thought. Do you have a recomendation for what controller I should buy?
Buy a rebuilt one from Fsip or buggies unlimited.
So everything tested good on mine until…..the last test on motor negative. Only went up to like one 1.5 volts. So definitely controller??
@@Sparkyz480 yes sir thanks for watching and commenting. If all voltages check like in the video and no voltage coming out replace controller. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
Same thing except mine will go to 17v and then the solenoid click and it stops…let the pedal off and start again it will go back up to 17
Still a Controller issue?
@@brandonbess7042 is your cart in forward. And is it like the video above.
Meaning what type of cart
@@Golfcartwhispereryes and yes
Got an ez go txt that goes forward just fine. It hesitates and struggles to go in reverse. It starts very slowly until it can pick up speed. Is that a controller issue?
Is it a series or pds
If it’s a pds or dcs if so replace controller. If it’s a series replace f n r board
It's an 04 txt series 36 volt. Changed the controller and FNR and magnetic switch in floorboard. Will go forward just fine, but struggles alot going in reverse
When you say struggle you mean only runs halve speed. If so unhook the orange wire off the f n r board. That’s 1/2 speed in reverse
It's not the half speed for reverse. It barely moves, and once it gets going, it will go. I've never encountered something like this. It's almost as if there's plenty of power to go forward, but it can't draw enough power to get going in reverse
Good video. Better than any I have seen.
@@RayHanger thank you sir! Hit that like button for me. 👊
@@Golfcartwhisperer
I followed your video and all was working until I got to checking the pedal microswitch where it failed. Do you know if I have to remove the floorboard (is it hard?) to replace it or do you do it from underneath. Thanks. I could not have found the problem with out you
@@RayHanger yes sir you have to remove the floor mat I’ll send you a video on how to do it. It will be on a gas car but same principle.
But no it’s not hard. Fast forward until I start taking the floor board up
Ezgo gas EFI golf cart won’t run!!
ruclips.net/video/SswMhzWvFFA/видео.html
@@RayHanger appreciate you watching. Hit that like and subscribe button for me.
I have a e zgo 36vots all the time on the motor terminal
Thanks for commenting. Is it dead voltage. Also what kind series or pds
When the key is off I get a 36v reading on the motor
@@RaymondLow-y8o is your a pds or series
@@Golfcartwhisperer iam out of town will get back to you later
@@RaymondLow-y8o yes sir just let me know
Amazing video, thank you
Ty sir. Hit that like and subscribe button for me
20% of the time I'm right, everytime.
~ Controller. 😂
Thanks for answering
Thanks buddy
Yes sir hit that like and subscribe. Button for me. I post 2. New Videos a week
What if you don’t have voltage on the white wire going to the ignition switch
That comes from the controller. Run you a jumper wire from the main positive to the small post yellow wire.
Also. Make sure you have voltage in all 4 wires from tow switch plus make sure on the main harness that you have voltage on the 2 red wires on the bottom left For these test put volt meter dc 200 keep black lead on main negative all the time during the test.
I have battery voltage on all 4 wires at the tow switch and on the 2 red wires on the 10 pin plug just nothing at the white wire and white and yellow wire. Are you talking about running a jumper to the yellow wire on the solenoid?
@@meymey35 yes off the main positive
@@meymey35 that’s right then. Then the controller send battery voltage out the white wire to the key switch. Could be a bad controller. But tell me what happens when you run that jumper wire.