Thank you so much! Your video is exactly what we needed! My son and I were going to try and "build up" the old broken concrete baffle and I'm so glad I found your video! This will be so easy as we have already removed the entire lid and can get to the 4 inch drain pipe way easier than you were able to in the video. And we can use both hands! LOL. Thanks again for helping us out and saving us a lot of time and probably a lot of frustration.
Just had it pumped out and service guy tried to scam me replacing a perfectly fine concrete baffle which was about to cost me $1,200 +. Thanks for the video, and I’ll share this with others.
Had my septic tank pumped the other day, and the pvc piece going down had fallen off, and the guy pumping it acted like it wasn't a big deal, happens all the time. Just cover the holes back up. I'm glad I did some research while it's still basically empty
Master Plumber here, but not a septic expert. I bought a filtered baffle tee and did not fit because of the disintegrating baffle. Thank you for this video. I now know to break out the baffle to fit the filter on. Learning every day.
Buying an older home that had the septic pumped and a baffle replaced. Now we know what's going on. Thank you very much for this thorough visual and explanation. I'm certain you've helped many many folks with this RUclips Vlog. 😊
Thank you! I just completed doing this after my septic man said i needed it. Had to wait a week to get the poly loc thingy in the mail. Tank wasn't close to full in a weeks time. I measured the depth on the congrete baffle to outlet and it was 20". So I made my device that to match that. Have had it pumped every 3-4 years for 20 years with no proplems until concrete baffle fell apart. Once again, Thank you so much!
I am in the process of trouble shooting my tank right now. What symptoms did you have when the baffle fell apart? Mine has been fine until recently. It backs up during heavy water use (water softener regen) and it comes up out of the riser. Had it pumped through the riser and now a week later back to coming out of the riser during heavy water use.
I had a friend with a backhoe install a 500 gallon concrete tank for me 45 years ago. I live alone and don't let any grease get in the tank nor water from my clothes washer. I originally put 3 packages of Fleischmsns yeast in the tank. About 10 years ago, I looked in the tank and there was a floating crust about half inch thick and I dragged my bar along the bottom and it felt like there was about 4 or 5 inches of sediment.Added yeast again. Opened the rank recently and the crust and the sediment were gone. There was only black water that was almost clear. Added more yeast. Never had the tank pumped.
Wonderful. Might be simple to those who know but wonderfully helpful for those who didn't know .... like me. I have the exact same circumstance. Things answered that I was curious about were 1) OK to bust off the old concrete baffle and let it fall into the tank? (Yes) 2) cap the top of the Tee (No) 3) straight Tee or Sanitary (Sanitary 4) I didn't realize there was a wet use PVC glue (there is). thank you again this video - well done and helpful.
I agree I've been a plumber for a long time but in a area where we didn't have many septic systems no I live where there are I appreciate your knowledge and showing fitting I've never seen
After having nothing but problems with my old concrete tank and about to tackle a new drain field you have also given me an easy how to to fix the scum layer issue. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Had my septic pumped today and the technician was trying to describe this same thing to me. He said my original baffle is gone. Now that I have seen you assemble and install a baffle, I can fix mine.
Thanks for doing this video. This is what I will be doing today…when I bought this house, I knew it had failed the inspection, but was waiting until spring to install a whole new system. I rolled the dice on it not backing up…but came up short. I am hopeful that by installing this…I can buy some time until I get a chance to design and install a new system.
Excellent video. I thought about this possibility with my 40 year old concrete tank but didn't think I had enough clearance to install it and my existing pipe needed an extension. Now I feel comfortable going ahead with the project. Thanks!
Hey, excellent video. Thank you. Question: I can't find very much useful information on when using a single compartment septic tank is appropriate and when it's not. My main question is, assuming proper drainage (leach field), and proper plumbing, can a single compartment, 500 gallon septic tank, with a proper baffle like you show here, provide years of trouble free service to a one bedroom cabin? I keep hearing people say that single comparment septic tanks are basically the equivelent of holding/pump tanks, and that you'll have to regularly pump them, much more often than a double compartment tank (such as a 750 gallon double compartment, which is double the cost). I don't want to over-build or over spend.
thanks for the help... selling my house and theyre telling me my baffle needs replaced . thanks for saving me money and not having to call a company in to do it!!!
Would sure like to know where to get the filter that fits that T…..your link doesn’t bring to that. Thx in advance if ya see this and respond! Great Video, I’m literall doing this today Cheers!
Well done. My septic is having issues and I have someone coming to address the field. The pump truck was supposed to come out Thursday then Tuesday and now they won’t make it before the leach field gets addressed. A little frustrating because this needs to be fixed to. Ever fix it full?
When we bought our home the spectic inspection revealed a broken T connector in the one system (there’s 2 here!) It was gonna cost me around $450 for a new one to be made but he wouldn’t install. Referred me to the guy who pumps out the tank. But now that I understand what he was talking about I might just tackle it myself
Cast Iron is a disaster in the older tanks... mine is so restricted I have a crew coming to replace it very soon and run a camera down to the drain field just to see how clear it is..... or not. Thanks for posting.
I'm not sure if it's my baffle or my pipe, but whatever is coming through the rear of my tank has come loose, and water is seeping thought the tank into the ground. Just had my tank pumped a few months ago, but I think I'm going to have to pump it again, and do a repair similar to this, probably even replacing some pipe on the outside. Thanks for the video, and Go Blue!!!
This video is a little off topic but towards the end has a picture that could be helpful for your repair: ruclips.net/video/SQJ7aDHEW2k/видео.html This is definitely a video I will be making soon. Thanks.
If the tank is structurally compromised it could need replacing. But if the outlet device is the only thing that is in need of repair, the tank would not need to be replaced.
THANK YOU for posting this. It is EXACTLY what I need to do, except the size. I have clay tile between the tanks, so I have to use 3 inch. Thanks again!!! Now... you just need to lose the hat from "that school up north" !!!
The outlet was installed at about 5 degrees up from level. In order to have the tee somewhat perpendicular I would like to use a 45 coming off of the extend lock. Do you see any problem here?
Is the pipe you tapped in the plastic piece to concrete or plastic? My Concrete/ ceramic baffle broke off. I’m assuming my pipe is concrete too. Not sure yet. Thanks
Very informative! Thank you. Quick question- After showering, our water level rises just below the top of the PVC T-piece, and at times has gone above the T, is this an indicator that we have an issue with the drain field being clogged?
I replace my inlet and had it pumped kast year. This year I'll be installing a new t and having the outlet lid pumped.. is it possible to just have your pipe 20" ish attached to the t and install within old concrete baffle? Just wondering incase I run into that. So I don't risk cracking tank dropping chunks of concrete 8 feet. Thanks
Great video thank you. So I take it this is a gravity system? So as the tank fills it flows downhill through that output pipe to the drain lines? I recently changes my 2 1/4 HP pump that was put in in 1995 (Myers). It was pumping uphill, about 1000 feet to the drain lines. My first time working on my septic system. I sure did learn a lot, thanks to guys like you posting these how-to videos.
Yes, this was a gravity system. You will find the same set up in pressure systems as well. The tank or tanks before the pump chamber will have outlet devices like this. Thanks!
You explained things clearly for me a novice , to understand. They want $6K for this. Even if I have to dig a new vein I am equipped! Thanks boss Respect
I made my outlet device just like in your video instructions but when I went to dry fit it onto the outlet pipe i found the outlet pipe to be slightly oval-shaped so the extend & lok would not fit. What do i need to do next?
Excellent video and info, thanks. My tube has been missing a long time could this totally clog the drain field piping after a long time or do they recover well from scum layer draining out???
drain fields can be resilient. The best thing you can do is get the outlet device repaired and be very conscious of your water use. The more you can spread out the usage, the more rest periods the drain field will get and these rest periods are most helpful in drain field recovery.
We have our 30year old tank pumped every 4 years. Only two adults and a dog are in the house. Our tech mentioned this outlet pipe has seen better days and you can see the cement around it is failing.. So thank you for this and educating us all on it. Not sure I could rely on him do this for us for as well as you did here! He also found two 4-5 foot effluent type logs at the bottom of the tank and I only hope he removed them! My concern is that the 3.5 ft large black drain pipe/riser he install a few years ago was not sealed in any fashion at the tank! The tank is in a wet area where rain drainage occurs above it. And I believe dirt and water from the top of the tank cover and at that riser are getting in it. I am not happy about that short cut and wish I knew better to demand a better product and install. I also remember seeing a soupy slug at the same level as this outlet! Not as clear as I believe it should be. So there was not as much area for gasses to collect Would you have a clue what might cause these harder logs at the bottom of that last tank?
It's hard to say what those could be in the bottom of the tank. Sometime we will find pieces of wood that were used during construction or similar items. If they are just sitting in the bottom of the tank, I would not be concerned. They will not hurt anything as long as they are not disintegrating and ending up out in the drain field.
I have some kind of log at the bottom of my tank. I'm guessing they put that in there to see if you're at the bottom of the tank when pumping out. Just what I always thought.
Very well done! Thank you. BTW, needing to replace my 40 year old tank with field. Would you recommend a tank with or without baffles? Very sandy, well drained soil in Florida.
No, it is typical for the septic tank to only have one outlet line. The drain field will be made up of several lines that branch out from the outlet line from the septic tank. I would be interested in finding out why, if that is this case that there are multiple outlet lines from your tank. You could try contacting your local health department to see if they have records from when it was installed to see if there are any explanations there.
I have a concreat tank with what appears to be a plastic or maybe fiberglass half round baffle that clings to the inside of the tank. It is chipping away at it's top edge and begun causing clogs. Is this common and how does this happen? Is the damage from the required 3yr pump-out required in WI? What of the inlet baffle are they not prone to failure?
No, you wouldn't want to dump anything down directly into the outlet device. It would cause waste to flow directly out to the drain field. If your local health department allows for RV waste to be connected into your septic tank, it would need to be brought in through its on plumbing or connected into the inlet line coming into the tank.
My understanding is that the outlet should be 3-4 inches lower than inlet. Allowing waste to come out fall and go to the bottom. Will be a scum layer on top. My outlet has the T just like this keeping waste out which I have a good baffle anyways and not an issue but it’s cocked backwards a lil bit and prolly should be lowered about 3 inches. The water level is at the bottom of my inlet which caused a backup. Is it possible to lower the outlet myself or is this a big expensive project that’s going to cost me? I have the diverted on the outside directing to either 1 or 2 in my leach field. Assuming not an easy task?
Great video, just subscribed! This morning we discovered that our tank top collapsed. There’s a 2’ x 3’ hole that opened up. Someone is coming over tomorrow to inspect it. Hopefully we don’t have to replace the whole tank.
Yes, this same process could be used to install an inlet baffle however, it would be advisable not to use the extend N lok in the inlet line as it could become a clogging point for waste since it slides inside the pipe. Usually the inlet line extends far enough into the tank that the tee could be glued on to the pipe without using the extend N lok.
You Sir are a natural teacher... every part of this post was clear and understandable... no showboating, no distractions. Very much appreciated.
Exactly what we were going for. Thanks so much!
my thoughts exactly!
yes sir!
I approve of this message.
Thanks so much
Super impressed that “one”you installed that Tee with one hand and “two” had perfect camera shots while doing the install. Well done sir!
Thank you so much! Your video is exactly what we needed! My son and I were going to try and "build up" the old broken concrete baffle and I'm so glad I found your video! This will be so easy as we have already removed the entire lid and can get to the 4 inch drain pipe way easier than you were able to in the video. And we can use both hands! LOL. Thanks again for helping us out and saving us a lot of time and probably a lot of frustration.
Just had it pumped out and service guy tried to scam me replacing a perfectly fine concrete baffle which was about to cost me $1,200 +.
Thanks for the video, and I’ll share this with others.
Had my septic tank pumped the other day, and the pvc piece going down had fallen off, and the guy pumping it acted like it wasn't a big deal, happens all the time. Just cover the holes back up. I'm glad I did some research while it's still basically empty
Wow.... Had 2 septic guys tell me the only thing I could do is replace the entire tank... I think this video just saved me 5K
Only $5k? That's a major job.
Master Plumber here, but not a septic expert. I bought a filtered baffle tee and did not fit because of the disintegrating baffle. Thank you for this video. I now know to break out the baffle to fit the filter on. Learning every day.
Buying an older home that had the septic pumped and a baffle replaced. Now we know what's going on. Thank you very much for this thorough visual and explanation. I'm certain you've helped many many folks with this RUclips Vlog. 😊
Thanks! I appreciate your comment very much!
Thank you! I just completed doing this after my septic man said i needed it. Had to wait a week to get the poly loc thingy in the mail. Tank wasn't close to full in a weeks time. I measured the depth on the congrete baffle to outlet and it was 20". So I made my device that to match that. Have had it pumped every 3-4 years for 20 years with no proplems until concrete baffle fell apart. Once again, Thank you so much!
I am in the process of trouble shooting my tank right now. What symptoms did you have when the baffle fell apart? Mine has been fine until recently. It backs up during heavy water use (water softener regen) and it comes up out of the riser. Had it pumped through the riser and now a week later back to coming out of the riser during heavy water use.
I had a friend with a backhoe install a 500 gallon concrete tank for me 45 years ago. I live alone and don't let any grease get in the tank nor water from my clothes washer. I originally put 3 packages of Fleischmsns yeast in the tank. About 10 years ago, I looked in the tank and there was a floating crust about half inch thick and I dragged my bar along the bottom and it felt like there was about 4 or 5 inches of sediment.Added yeast again. Opened the rank recently and the crust and the sediment were gone. There was only black water that was almost clear. Added more yeast. Never had the tank pumped.
Great informative video. Well done. Now if you could just make a similar video for repairing the inlet baffle that would be awesome!
Im a sewer contractor and very impressed the way you explained the repair of the baffle tee !!!!!
Great Video! Super clear, and shows how straightforward this repair can be. Fabulous job, sir.
Wonderful. Might be simple to those who know but wonderfully helpful for those who didn't know .... like me. I have the exact same circumstance. Things answered that I was curious about were 1) OK to bust off the old concrete baffle and let it fall into the tank? (Yes) 2) cap the top of the Tee (No) 3) straight Tee or Sanitary (Sanitary 4) I didn't realize there was a wet use PVC glue (there is). thank you again this video - well done and helpful.
Never thought I would like a septic video.
Never say never! Thanks!
I agree I've been a plumber for a long time but in a area where we didn't have many septic systems no I live where there are I appreciate your knowledge and showing fitting I've never seen
Yes it is a great product. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing. I have never seen an extend a lock. Very interesting and informative.
Thanks Don! Yes the extend n lok is a great help in making this repair. It was a game changer for us when we found it!
After having nothing but problems with my old concrete tank and about to tackle a new drain field you have also given me an easy how to to fix the scum layer issue. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video. Had my septic pumped today and the technician was trying to describe this same thing to me. He said my original baffle is gone. Now that I have seen you assemble and install a baffle, I can fix mine.
Glad it helped!
I want to if I need a license to fix mine. Cause someone was telling me it could be illegal to do it yourself.
Thanks for doing this video. This is what I will be doing today…when I bought this house, I knew it had failed the inspection, but was waiting until spring to install a whole new system. I rolled the dice on it not backing up…but came up short.
I am hopeful that by installing this…I can buy some time until I get a chance to design and install a new system.
Great video!!!!
Just the issue we are having!
BUT......................arg... Where's the link to the screen filter??
Had a septic specialist out this morning, your video made this process so understandable, great job, baffle deterioration
Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your one handed effort man. You made it look easy. Great info.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I thought about this possibility with my 40 year old concrete tank but didn't think I had enough clearance to install it and my existing pipe needed an extension. Now I feel comfortable going ahead with the project. Thanks!
Awesome! You can do it!
God bless all you septic tank people for doing the dirty work.
And GO BLUE!
I love competent people like you!
Hey, excellent video. Thank you. Question: I can't find very much useful information on when using a single compartment septic tank is appropriate and when it's not. My main question is, assuming proper drainage (leach field), and proper plumbing, can a single compartment, 500 gallon septic tank, with a proper baffle like you show here, provide years of trouble free service to a one bedroom cabin? I keep hearing people say that single comparment septic tanks are basically the equivelent of holding/pump tanks, and that you'll have to regularly pump them, much more often than a double compartment tank (such as a 750 gallon double compartment, which is double the cost). I don't want to over-build or over spend.
good video for those of us who u/s whats going on here, thanks for taking the time to make it!! 🤠
this will solve our problem in our septic tank. thanks man. I'm from Philippines.
Great! I'm glad it was helpful.
Thank you so much. You did a wonderful job. You’re a great teacher.
Hi from Trinidad great job and the first time i have seen an extend lock
Thanks! The extend n lok is a huge time and effort saver!
thanks for the help... selling my house and theyre telling me my baffle needs replaced . thanks for saving me money and not having to call a company in to do it!!!
No problem Brad. Glad it was helpful!
Awesome demonstration!! Thank you!🇺🇸 16:36
My body hurts just watching this!! I'm dealing with a septic clog but is no where near this involved! Good job taking this in stride.
Excellent video. You had a difficult situation with where that tank lid was and what you had to do to fix it but wow you hit it out of the park! 👍
Nice video! All except for the U of M hat 😀....Go Bucks!
Appreciate it! Go Blue!
Would sure like to know where to get the filter that fits that T…..your link doesn’t bring to that. Thx in advance if ya see this and respond!
Great Video, I’m literall doing this today
Cheers!
Well done. My septic is having issues and I have someone coming to address the field. The pump truck was supposed to come out Thursday then Tuesday and now they won’t make it before the leach field gets addressed. A little frustrating because this needs to be fixed to. Ever fix it full?
When we bought our home the spectic inspection revealed a broken T connector in the one system (there’s 2 here!) It was gonna cost me around $450 for a new one to be made but he wouldn’t install. Referred me to the guy who pumps out the tank. But now that I understand what he was talking about I might just tackle it myself
Very impressive working and holding a camera
Hello,
Thank You a great video, I have a good understanding of how it works.
Glad it helped!
right on dude. simple, concise to the point demo. I feel confident to replace the baffle that is loose ""tanks" to your video. 👍
how often do you have to clean that discharge filter and you have to dig it all up to get to it !!..nice job mate !!
Cast Iron is a disaster in the older tanks... mine is so restricted I have a crew coming to replace it very soon and run a camera down to the drain field just to see how clear it is..... or not.
Thanks for posting.
Thank you for this. Exact same issue on my septic. saved me a lot of $$$
Great to hear!
I always turn the t over, makes it easier to hydro jet the laterals
Super nice job! Wish you were near by.
I'm not sure if it's my baffle or my pipe, but whatever is coming through the rear of my tank has come loose, and water is seeping thought the tank into the ground. Just had my tank pumped a few months ago, but I think I'm going to have to pump it again, and do a repair similar to this, probably even replacing some pipe on the outside. Thanks for the video, and Go Blue!!!
This video is a little off topic but towards the end has a picture that could be helpful for your repair: ruclips.net/video/SQJ7aDHEW2k/видео.html
This is definitely a video I will be making soon. Thanks.
Thank you, that was very clear, very helpful and much appreciated. Very well described.
Thanks!
I'm going to be doing this next week and had no idea how to go about it because the outlet pipe was in like yours. Thank you!!!!!
Glad I could help!
man this is what I need it that'll save me money thank you for your help
i got some people looking at it and they told me that canot be fix they said I have to replace the ta6
If the tank is structurally compromised it could need replacing. But if the outlet device is the only thing that is in need of repair, the tank would not need to be replaced.
THANK YOU for posting this. It is EXACTLY what I need to do, except the size. I have clay tile between the tanks, so I have to use 3 inch. Thanks again!!! Now... you just need to lose the hat from "that school up north" !!!
Glad it was helpful. Go Blue!
Extender into T first, then whole assembly into drain pipe. Work smarter, not harder. 👍
The outlet was installed at about 5 degrees up from level. In order to have the tee somewhat perpendicular I would like to use a 45 coming off of the extend lock. Do you see any problem here?
Is the pipe you tapped in the plastic piece to concrete or plastic? My Concrete/ ceramic baffle broke off. I’m assuming my pipe is concrete too. Not sure yet. Thanks
Very well done video. Thank you for helping us.
Very informative! Thank you. Quick question- After showering, our water level rises just below the top of the PVC T-piece, and at times has gone above the T, is this an indicator that we have an issue with the drain field being clogged?
I’m assuming that should also add a cover extension so that you don’t have to dig as far in future
Absolutely! Here's a video for that installation as well! ruclips.net/video/IWTucklC_xY/видео.html
Just by chance I found this video a few days after I got my tank pumped out and found some concrete. Now i know what it was from. Thanks
I replace my inlet and had it pumped kast year. This year I'll be installing a new t and having the outlet lid pumped.. is it possible to just have your pipe 20" ish attached to the t and install within old concrete baffle? Just wondering incase I run into that. So I don't risk cracking tank dropping chunks of concrete 8 feet. Thanks
Great video thank you. So I take it this is a gravity system? So as the tank fills it flows downhill through that output pipe to the drain lines? I recently changes my 2 1/4 HP pump that was put in in 1995 (Myers). It was pumping uphill, about 1000 feet to the drain lines. My first time working on my septic system. I sure did learn a lot, thanks to guys like you posting these how-to videos.
Yes, this was a gravity system. You will find the same set up in pressure systems as well. The tank or tanks before the pump chamber will have outlet devices like this. Thanks!
How much inch below ur baffle wall should your outlet pipe be
Is the inlet baffle replaced the same way?
Absolutely great video very informative and very professionally done this can save a lot of money if it has to happen
Glad you enjoyed it
I have the square top lids also one has fallen in the tank where can I buy a riser for a square cover?
Excellent demonstration. Exactly what I need to do.
Glad it was helpful!
You explained things clearly for me a novice , to understand.
They want $6K for this. Even if I have to dig a new vein I am equipped!
Thanks boss
Respect
Very good job and excellent instructions. Thanks!
And you only needed one hand. Good job.
How do you determine the length of the pipe that is submerged into the tank? Great video! Very informative 👏
Thank you! The down pipe should be between 12 - 18 inches.
@@askthepumperdude thanks!
Is there no way from keeping the concrete falling to the bottom of the tank?
I made my outlet device just like in your video instructions but when I went to dry fit it onto the outlet pipe i found the outlet pipe to be slightly oval-shaped so the extend & lok would not fit. What do i need to do next?
Excellent video and info, thanks. My tube has been missing a long time could this totally clog the drain field piping after a long time or do they recover well from scum layer draining out???
drain fields can be resilient. The best thing you can do is get the outlet device repaired and be very conscious of your water use. The more you can spread out the usage, the more rest periods the drain field will get and these rest periods are most helpful in drain field recovery.
Fantastic video, thank you so much for making this!
You are very welcome!
Very well presented and explained. THANK YOU!
We have our 30year old tank pumped every 4 years. Only two adults and a dog are in the house. Our tech mentioned this outlet pipe has seen better days and you can see the cement around it is failing.. So thank you for this and educating us all on it. Not sure I could rely on him do this for us for as well as you did here! He also found two 4-5 foot effluent type logs at the bottom of the tank and I only hope he removed them! My concern is that the 3.5 ft large black drain pipe/riser he install a few years ago was not sealed in any fashion at the tank! The tank is in a wet area where rain drainage occurs above it. And I believe dirt and water from the top of the tank cover and at that riser are getting in it. I am not happy about that short cut and wish I knew better to demand a better product and install. I also remember seeing a soupy slug at the same level as this outlet! Not as clear as I believe it should be. So there was not as much area for gasses to collect
Would you have a clue what might cause these harder logs at the bottom of that last tank?
It's hard to say what those could be in the bottom of the tank. Sometime we will find pieces of wood that were used during construction or similar items. If they are just sitting in the bottom of the tank, I would not be concerned. They will not hurt anything as long as they are not disintegrating and ending up out in the drain field.
I have some kind of log at the bottom of my tank. I'm guessing they put that in there to see if you're at the bottom of the tank when pumping out. Just what I always thought.
Thank you for posting this! You're like a frickin super hero 😁👍
👍👍👍👍
I really enjoy informative videos like this. Great work.
Thanks so much!
Can I do this repair with out pumping the tank???
Need to put that kit on an amazon store ! I need this now i can't wait and i cant find it local !
Very well done! Thank you. BTW, needing to replace my 40 year old tank with field. Would you recommend a tank with or without baffles? Very sandy, well drained soil in Florida.
Thank you so much for detail explaining.
An effluent filter will drop right into that PVC baffle, why not use one now that you can?
Thank you for the clear explanation. Is it normal for a septic tank to have more than one exit lines? Ours has a least three.
No, it is typical for the septic tank to only have one outlet line. The drain field will be made up of several lines that branch out from the outlet line from the septic tank. I would be interested in finding out why, if that is this case that there are multiple outlet lines from your tank. You could try contacting your local health department to see if they have records from when it was installed to see if there are any explanations there.
@@askthepumperdude Thanks for answering!
How long is the piece that goes into the septic tank? 20"
Thanks great video greetings from Ireland
Thankyou for the info and great demonstation
Thanks for watching!
fantastic video!! Thank you!
Awesome work brother but damn how deep is that access lid?
If the down tube is a bit short can you put a coupler and extend the pipe
Yes that would work just fine.
I have a concreat tank with what appears to be a plastic or maybe fiberglass half round baffle that clings to the inside of the tank. It is chipping away at it's top edge and begun causing clogs. Is this common and how does this happen? Is the damage from the required 3yr pump-out required in WI? What of the inlet baffle are they not prone to failure?
Would it be possible for you to send a picture? That would be helpful. You could email it to jake@djseptic.com. Thanks.
Would I be able to do that to extend the piece to come above ground level to empty and rv tank into it or would that be a whole different process?
No, you wouldn't want to dump anything down directly into the outlet device. It would cause waste to flow directly out to the drain field. If your local health department allows for RV waste to be connected into your septic tank, it would need to be brought in through its on plumbing or connected into the inlet line coming into the tank.
My understanding is that the outlet should be 3-4 inches lower than inlet. Allowing waste to come out fall and go to the bottom. Will be a scum layer on top. My outlet has the T just like this keeping waste out which I have a good baffle anyways and not an issue but it’s cocked backwards a lil bit and prolly should be lowered about 3 inches. The water level is at the bottom of my inlet which caused a backup. Is it possible to lower the outlet myself or is this a big expensive project that’s going to cost me? I have the diverted on the outside directing to either 1 or 2 in my leach field. Assuming not an easy task?
Hi Chad, we just posted a video to answer this question. I hope it is helpful! You can find that video here: ruclips.net/video/vInS4ECLyhE/видео.html
Should you add a filter in that pipe ? Thanks for tne video very helpful ! Oh you answerd it at end of video 😆
We try to cover everything! ;-)
Great video, just subscribed! This morning we discovered that our tank top collapsed. There’s a 2’ x 3’ hole that opened up. Someone is coming over tomorrow to inspect it. Hopefully we don’t have to replace the whole tank.
Thanks! Hopefully they will be able to repair the collapsed portion. Depends mostly on the condition of the rest of the tank. Good luck!
Great video!! Where can you get the extend and lock pvc??
Most suspenseful video ever... on the edge of my seat thinking at any moment he was gonna drop his phone into the septic tank 🤢
exactly the information I was looking for explained clearly thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Wouldnt this procedure be the same as the inlet side make the T baffle?
Yes, this same process could be used to install an inlet baffle however, it would be advisable not to use the extend N lok in the inlet line as it could become a clogging point for waste since it slides inside the pipe. Usually the inlet line extends far enough into the tank that the tee could be glued on to the pipe without using the extend N lok.
How many days it took you to complete the job?