Was your gearbox slipping? After tearing down the front diff I found out there was no threaded pit in front diff. Don't know if running int 2 wheel drives
This job is in my future, except on a Super Rock Rey. My front ring and pinion are going (I bought it lightly used) Mostly right now it's just under braking. I've ordered new today for when it completely goes. To bad it isn't as easy as doing the rear diff on my UDR or even the front. BUT being how strong the diffs are as is, I'll take the job requirement to change them. Also the first time seeing the Pepsi can size motor in the thing and it is insane how big it is. I've researched a lot about this RC beforehand and you can't begin to understand the size of the parts it's got. Only reason I pulled the motor out was to make sure it wasn't the pinion grinding. The grease inside the tranny was still good yet, but added more anyways. I also have to replace a rear upper link cause I broke it today. Drove the SRR up the side of a tree (on purpose) to see how far up it I could get. Most of the landings were nice and flat so I kept going higher. The final jump that broke it I had launched it probably 15 to 20 feet up this tree and came down on the side more or less and popped it out. These things are very strong I've noticed and I'm starting to like 1/6 scale. Up until a few weeks ago, 1/7 (UDR) was as big as I've owned. The parts on the SRR are (to my understanding) mostly all 1/5 scale parts. I really enjoy using it, but it is heavy!! On a side note, why don't they use mod 1.5 gears on the X-Maxx? The 1/10 scale Rock Rey even uses the same mod 1 gears the X-Maxx uses. I'm going to be buying a second Losi very soon in the form of LST 3XLE. Well, it will really be the third Losi I've purchased, just the second one (in route FedEx) was purchased for my brother. The 1/10 Rock Rey. He currently has a Stampede 4x4 that is highly modded but is having problems. Simple problems. Grub screws backing out even with lock tite and last big issue was he broke off the motor shaft. I know he's getting fed up with it and that's why I bought the Losi for him. Could slow the Stampede down. It is running a 3s lipo on a Hobbywing Max10 with a 3300kv motor and a 14 tooth pinion, but why? 😁. Before I keep going on and on, I just want to say thanks for posting this video. Will help me when the time comes. Do you have any other tips on other things I should do while I'm pulling the diff? Aside from checking the servo saver. Lol
Lane Waite I no longer have this truck but it’s running fine with the new owner. I ended up keeping the UDR though. The aftermarket makes mod 1.5 for the Xmaxx. This Losi is kinda a job to dig into this front end for sure.
Did you have any issues with the ring gear tweaking in the front diff, mine developed a odd grinding sound when you got on the throttle, took the front diff apart and noticed that the ring gear would lift away from the pinion gear when spun by hand, just something to look out for
I been looking at different bearing for my xmaxx what are your thoughts on ceramic bearings? I don’t know much about them and if they are worth it or not ? I go threw a lot of wheel bearings and I stay away from water too for the most part.
Ceramics aren’t cheap but they do seem to last longer so it may be worth giving them a try. If I recall the balls are ceramic and the races are still steel.
I don't know if you solved your wheel bearing issues on your X-Maxx and I'm replying to a comment that's a year old, but I've heard that changing the hubs to aluminum with help keep the bearings good for longer. There is specific hubs that allow for a bigger bearing which also helps.
Any chance you'd ever do a centre diff tear down , I have this truck but I also have the Losi Raptor rey and man ! Does it torque steer, it's crying out for centre diff 500,000 weight oil
Thanks so much for the video. Well produced and very much needed for me. I see that servicing the front diff on the SBR is less intensive than servicing the front diff on the UDR correct? I was asking myself this question and searched for days on RUclips to find this and thankfully you took the time to film and share.
Any idea on how to help stop the front dive with these trucks...a buddy of mine said to try make the front diff oil wt much lighter than the rear...they do that on the losi 5ts to stop the nose dives..
Changing diff oils won’t change how the truck flies. The center diff may change how it launches a little bit but it’s not a big player in the nose diving issue. Same as with SCT trucks, this truck has relatively light wheels and tires as compared to chassis weight so throttle in the air doesn’t help as much as a buggy or truggy. The issue is when you launch a jump and give it throttle the front comes up and rear squats, this allows the front to absorb some of the jump but when the rear hits the jump it bottoms out and then all of the jump is transferred to the chassis and you end up nose diving. I changed the shock oil in my SBR to slow the suspension down and it seems to help. 55wt in rear and 45wt up front. I can hit the usual plastic bike ramps at speed and it flies nice and level or even a tiny bit nose high. Give thicker shock oil a try and maybe it will help you out like it did for me.
i've always liked proper rc cars but just started a few years ago. i currently have a 1/5 scale gas hpi baja 5b, i have a 1/10 losi ten scbe. i really wanan collect A LOT more
i really like driving rcs and i dont mind working on them unless you have to take them apart, i really wanna get one of these but do we have to take it apart like that oftem?
is there an easier way to take it apart? Like without having to take off more pieces just to grease it, because dont you have to grease diffs often especially if you run it a ton?
Nice vid, but you didn't put greese in the most important part. inside the diff housing. Those are the parts that go bad, also the stock greese isn't heavy enough, it causes way to much wheel spin on low traction tire.
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Just put in an aluminum diff housing on my SBR 2.0.
This video saved my life! Thank you!!
Same. ;)
Was your gearbox slipping? After tearing down the front diff I found out there was no threaded pit in front diff. Don't know if running int 2 wheel drives
Let me finish, don't know if running in 2 wheel drive caused trany to give up.
What a great how to. Hoping you had opened the diff. My truck quit after 6 runs. Gradually started slipping.
Why is that ?
This job is in my future, except on a Super Rock Rey. My front ring and pinion are going (I bought it lightly used) Mostly right now it's just under braking. I've ordered new today for when it completely goes. To bad it isn't as easy as doing the rear diff on my UDR or even the front. BUT being how strong the diffs are as is, I'll take the job requirement to change them. Also the first time seeing the Pepsi can size motor in the thing and it is insane how big it is. I've researched a lot about this RC beforehand and you can't begin to understand the size of the parts it's got. Only reason I pulled the motor out was to make sure it wasn't the pinion grinding. The grease inside the tranny was still good yet, but added more anyways. I also have to replace a rear upper link cause I broke it today. Drove the SRR up the side of a tree (on purpose) to see how far up it I could get. Most of the landings were nice and flat so I kept going higher. The final jump that broke it I had launched it probably 15 to 20 feet up this tree and came down on the side more or less and popped it out. These things are very strong I've noticed and I'm starting to like 1/6 scale. Up until a few weeks ago, 1/7 (UDR) was as big as I've owned. The parts on the SRR are (to my understanding) mostly all 1/5 scale parts. I really enjoy using it, but it is heavy!! On a side note, why don't they use mod 1.5 gears on the X-Maxx? The 1/10 scale Rock Rey even uses the same mod 1 gears the X-Maxx uses. I'm going to be buying a second Losi very soon in the form of LST 3XLE. Well, it will really be the third Losi I've purchased, just the second one (in route FedEx) was purchased for my brother. The 1/10 Rock Rey. He currently has a Stampede 4x4 that is highly modded but is having problems. Simple problems. Grub screws backing out even with lock tite and last big issue was he broke off the motor shaft. I know he's getting fed up with it and that's why I bought the Losi for him. Could slow the Stampede down. It is running a 3s lipo on a Hobbywing Max10 with a 3300kv motor and a 14 tooth pinion, but why? 😁. Before I keep going on and on, I just want to say thanks for posting this video. Will help me when the time comes. Do you have any other tips on other things I should do while I'm pulling the diff? Aside from checking the servo saver. Lol
Lane Waite I no longer have this truck but it’s running fine with the new owner. I ended up keeping the UDR though. The aftermarket makes mod 1.5 for the Xmaxx. This Losi is kinda a job to dig into this front end for sure.
Did you have any issues with the ring gear tweaking in the front diff, mine developed a odd grinding sound when you got on the throttle, took the front diff apart and noticed that the ring gear would lift away from the pinion gear when spun by hand, just something to look out for
Great video awesome truck those things are tough
If I was to grind out that tab...then put the gear set in backwards would that then allow me to use this in the rear of a custom build?
My front wheels just stopped turning.. time to wrench
I been looking at different bearing for my xmaxx what are your thoughts on ceramic bearings? I don’t know much about them and if they are worth it or not ? I go threw a lot of wheel bearings and I stay away from water too for the most part.
Ceramics aren’t cheap but they do seem to last longer so it may be worth giving them a try. If I recall the balls are ceramic and the races are still steel.
I don't know if you solved your wheel bearing issues on your X-Maxx and I'm replying to a comment that's a year old, but I've heard that changing the hubs to aluminum with help keep the bearings good for longer. There is specific hubs that allow for a bigger bearing which also helps.
Any chance you'd ever do a centre diff tear down , I have this truck but I also have the Losi Raptor rey and man ! Does it torque steer, it's crying out for centre diff 500,000 weight oil
👍
Thanks so much for the video. Well produced and very much needed for me. I see that servicing the front diff on the SBR is less intensive than servicing the front diff on the UDR correct? I was asking myself this question and searched for days on RUclips to find this and thankfully you took the time to film and share.
So long as you follow the steps it was a bit easier to get out than the UDR front diff was.
Thanx for this informative video 👍👍 No need to open up the diff itself and check the amount off diff oil?
The diffs seem to be consistently tight and I noticed no leaks so I saw no need to open them up.
Exocaged RC oké thanx👍 Very helpfull to see how to take apart the front and rear diff. Any chance your Gonna do the midd diff too?
I may do that, I just haven't had time to get into it again
Good,informative vídeo,thanks for sharing! What are your thoughts on the SBR, is it durable? Do you recomend it?
The SBR is awesome. The only persisting issue I’ve had with it are the tires not staying glued to the wheels and that’s the most common issue so far.
Also I have a video called Bashing with Trees and my buddy was jumping his SBR directly into an oak tree. LoL it was awesome.
Ok,thanks a lot brother,the dboots backflip tires on my kraton also have the same issue,no big deal
Any idea on how to help stop the front dive with these trucks...a buddy of mine said to try make the front diff oil wt much lighter than the rear...they do that on the losi 5ts to stop the nose dives..
Changing diff oils won’t change how the truck flies. The center diff may change how it launches a little bit but it’s not a big player in the nose diving issue. Same as with SCT trucks, this truck has relatively light wheels and tires as compared to chassis weight so throttle in the air doesn’t help as much as a buggy or truggy. The issue is when you launch a jump and give it throttle the front comes up and rear squats, this allows the front to absorb some of the jump but when the rear hits the jump it bottoms out and then all of the jump is transferred to the chassis and you end up nose diving. I changed the shock oil in my SBR to slow the suspension down and it seems to help. 55wt in rear and 45wt up front. I can hit the usual plastic bike ramps at speed and it flies nice and level or even a tiny bit nose high. Give thicker shock oil a try and maybe it will help you out like it did for me.
Overall, seems like a solidly built truck.
yes it is
i've always liked proper rc cars but just started a few years ago. i currently have a 1/5 scale gas hpi baja 5b, i have a 1/10 losi ten scbe. i really wanan collect A LOT more
Well you have a lot of choices to collect them. I’m up to about 40 including my planes
i really like driving rcs and i dont mind working on them unless you have to take them apart, i really wanna get one of these but do we have to take it apart like that oftem?
Often*
i dont mind taking them apart but its just i mainly like getting out and using them lol.
is there an easier way to take it apart? Like without having to take off more pieces just to grease it, because dont you have to grease diffs often especially if you run it a ton?
The SBR is a very tough truck and no you don’t have to take it apart very often. I did this for video to show what’s inside.
Looks part of your bell crank is cracked on the left.
Nice vid, but you didn't put greese in the most important part. inside the diff housing. Those are the parts that go bad, also the stock greese isn't heavy enough, it causes way to much wheel spin on low traction tire.
Nice vid looks ok by the way u drive it if this gets tagged I'll be happy keep up the good vids
thanks, what does tagged mean?