Thanks so much Robert brother! 👊 glad you liked it my good friend. Always a pleasure to read your comment dude. Thanks again. Hope you & all your family & friends are safe & healthy too bro! 👊😎
Wasn’t really to much. Front bumper assembly & that cage piece. Thats all really. The front diff housing was previous damage & the diff itself was due already too. 👍 Thanks for the comment dude.
I love the truck. Once you get the spring out of the roll cage your good.. I started 10 years ago filming a 1/5 scale HPI 5st.. Nothing but problems with that truck!
Totally agree man! Once I got that flexing stopped in the rear? There’s really nothing else you need to improve on this beast! 👍 except the “driver-mod” 🤣 Thanks for the wicked feedback 👊😎
I hate nnot getting notified of your new content. ☹️ Normally I would balk at the 20 screws required to remove the body but you can see that the cage looks to be super solid. These Baja Rays are bad ass. That transmission is so beefy.! Awesome video my bro.!! 😊🏆
I can send ya an email when I post, if you want homie? Yeah, taking the body off is a job on its own. Putting it back on is even worse, cause you gotta stop the drill and hand tighten if you don’t wanna destroy the plastic threads? It is a really fun vehicle to operate! I chose it over an X-Maxx, & so happy with the decision. 👍👊
There are 12 screws that hold the whole cage and body on. You don't even have to touch the 20 body screws. 2 into the front cage/bumper 4 into the bottom of chassis (2 on each side edge) 2 through the cage into the rear upper mount shocks (accessible from the bottom) 2 into each side of the upper rear shock mounts (through the cage)
Cool i love taking my nitro car apart and adding new parts then firing it up and seeing it run its real fun. Great video new sub for sure here my friend 😊
Hey thanks for the support of your subscription! 👊 Nitros are lots of fun for sure! I run nitro cars in my old videos. If you’re interested, I’ll send the playlist link?
Hey thanks for the positive comment man. That is not an easy question to answer. Very difficult to find what the stock fluids are, but my source says stock cst values are: •30000cst for front & rear •200000cst for center I have never changed my centre diff oil yet, but I have put 50000cst in the front & rear when Ive serviced them.
Had a slight problem in the centerdiff, some axial play and a leaky front diff. I was already wondering when i upgraded my SBR with alu diffcups and other Vitavon parts. I went with the whole diff sirup story but it did not sit well with me. I delved into it some more last week waiting for a rebuild kit, Those "Ninja stars" and round shims are your Clutch pack, this means the SBR 2.0 has limited sllip diffs so it does not need the diff sirup at all imho. If you have a open diff, then yes, the thickness of the oil matters, but with a limited slip diff it should not, even though there is no preload spring. I'm now rebuilding my front and central diffs and using automotive gearlube racing 75W-140 i'll keep you up to date how it goes and handles. ruclips.net/video/WeLm7wHvdxQ/видео.html
Thanks for taking the time to leave that very elaborate comment. Can’t say I agree with some of what you said, but I really appreciate the enthusiasm for your ideas. I wouldn’t run any diffs dry if I were you? Those round & star shaped shims are to promote moving diff-fluid behind the gears they are backing. So it doesn’t just collect behind the gears in the cup. If you do run your diffs without fluid (I don’t recommend it!) let me know how it goes? Thanks again for watching. 👍
So I watched the video link you sent. I see what you’re saying, but That’s based on an actual car & even though that’s how LSD works in a real diff, there are some factors of that explanation that don’t exist in the Losi diff, like the tension spring in the centre. Plus there’s nothing that allows the slight movement in order to add friction to the shims/clutch plates inside the Losi diff? So I can’t say the video is wrong, but I don’t think the Losi diffs work the way that video explains. I could be wrong, but I’d really like to see a video that is specific to the diffs in question & not compare the diff from a 1:1 vehicle to a 1:6 RC vehicle?
That's what i'm wondering to, i should have taken pictures, but there were certainly marks on the clutchplates that sugested they have slip and grip, there was wear that indicates they are compressed, ie, the oil is pushed out through the holes in them resulting in friction ie "limited slip working". How exactly i have no idea, i have some experience rebuilding diffs, overhauled the diff of my Jeep Willy CJ3a, and taking apart a limited slip diff for a 1970 Alfa Romeo GT used for racing. It had the same clutch plates, just not the holes and pretension playes a big part in it but there was no "spring" it has to be some mechanic with the gears spinning and centrifugal forces is my best guess. I know i tend to go overboard since i have the SBR 2.0 and getting back in RC after 30 years and mixing in my limited knowledge, understanding and experience with 1:1 racing vehicles lol :-) I'm still tuning the suspension the same way, I see the limitations in the shock design so no real recoil and rebound, but i'm having some succes with SBR tuning it on springrate rather then oil in the shocks. I wish i just could get a set of scale coilovers with adjustable external reservoirs and a ton of spring rates to choose from hahahahahahaha I think it's just the SBR though, it's really the closest in RC, other then full custom builds, to real vehiclce setup, just not enough tuning parts for it haha. Check my channel, there's a few test runs of the SBR 2.0 and ideas, perhaps you already seen those, even commented, andf perhaps i'm just overthinking it ;-) :-)
Bro.!! Why didn't you tell me that you're wife had a channel all jer very own.?!! And it's an awesome channel.!! I'm goimg to hit her up with a sub. Then I'm going to learn some stuff. 😊
You’re awesome Bri! Thank you so much! I have sent community posts out on my wife’s channel. I just figured any of my Subs who are interested in that stuff would check it out? Sorry homie, if I knew you hadn’t seen the posts & were into the scrap-booking? I for sure would have made sure you knew about it! 👍 Morgan told me about the stuff you said you’d send with the gift package for us. You can bet She’ll send you some stuff too with ours to you. 👊👍😎 Thanks again for your awesome support and enthusiasm my good friend. I will absolutely make sure to let you know about her scrap booking videos & Live broadcasts from now on. 😎🤘👊🍻
@@rcwreck-creation I subbed to her channel but if I miss more than two or three let me know. I have way too many subscriptions... ☹️ the important ones don't come through sometimes 😥
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Awesome video and Rc brother Excellent footage and repair
Have a good one and stay safe my friend
👍🥶👍
Thanks so much Robert brother! 👊 glad you liked it my good friend. Always a pleasure to read your comment dude. Thanks again. Hope you & all your family & friends are safe & healthy too bro! 👊😎
I didn't think you did that much carnage to it that day. Ready for another bash now. 😎
Wasn’t really to much. Front bumper assembly & that cage piece. Thats all really. The front diff housing was previous damage & the diff itself was due already too. 👍 Thanks for the comment dude.
Cleaning prior to disassembly helps with putting it back together.
I love the truck. Once you get the spring out of the roll cage your good.. I started 10 years ago filming a 1/5 scale HPI 5st.. Nothing but problems with that truck!
Totally agree man! Once I got that flexing stopped in the rear? There’s really nothing else you need to improve on this beast! 👍 except the “driver-mod” 🤣 Thanks for the wicked feedback 👊😎
I hate nnot getting notified of your new content. ☹️ Normally I would balk at the 20 screws required to remove the body but you can see that the cage looks to be super solid. These Baja Rays are bad ass. That transmission is so beefy.! Awesome video my bro.!! 😊🏆
I can send ya an email when I post, if you want homie? Yeah, taking the body off is a job on its own. Putting it back on is even worse, cause you gotta stop the drill and hand tighten if you don’t wanna destroy the plastic threads? It is a really fun vehicle to operate! I chose it over an X-Maxx, & so happy with the decision. 👍👊
@@rcwreck-creation Send me an email if I missed like 3 of your videos in a row
Sending love and support to your channel ❤️ watching from the Philippines
#Landon
I appreciate the support Merta. It’s always a pleasure to know you are watching. 🍻
Awesome RC and great fix, hope you and the family are all well brother, have a great day.
We’re doing okay buddy. Thanks so much for the great comment. All the very best to you and your loved ones. 👊🍻😎
jakie oleje do dyfrow polecasz?
There are 12 screws that hold the whole cage and body on. You don't even have to touch the 20 body screws.
2 into the front cage/bumper
4 into the bottom of chassis (2 on each side edge)
2 through the cage into the rear upper mount shocks (accessible from the bottom)
2 into each side of the upper rear shock mounts (through the cage)
Thanks man. I figured that out too, and show it in another video. Appreciate the comment anyway. 👊😎👍
@@rcwreck-creation no problem! Thanks for the SBR videos!
Great video baby! ❤
Thanx baby
Wowww.such a amazing video keep in touch
Thanks for the very polite comment. Thanks for stopping by.
Great video and channel my friend 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Thanks for sharing 🎉🎉🎉
New friend and subscriber 🇸🇻👨👩👦🕊
Have a wonderful day 😊😊😊
Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed it. I wish more people thought so. Appreciate the really nice comment. Hope you have a great day too. 👍
Cool i love taking my nitro car apart and adding new parts then firing it up and seeing it run its real fun. Great video new sub for sure here my friend 😊
Hey thanks for the support of your subscription! 👊 Nitros are lots of fun for sure! I run nitro cars in my old videos. If you’re interested, I’ll send the playlist link?
@@rcwreck-creation sure that would be cool I also have some on my channel
@@jbsghosthuntingandotherhobbies links to nitro RC Playlists:
HPI RS4-3 12R SS (AKA ‘Baby’)
ruclips.net/p/PLsgeqh4cpQdqdF0qzIwVvgV-B0YQLqI4g
OFNA Nitro Z-10 (AKA ‘Frankenstein’)
ruclips.net/p/PLsgeqh4cpQdrNeqJP24hNBZYfAlLcqr7c
@@rcwreck-creation cool thanks my friend I will check them out 🏎️🏎️🏎️
@@jbsghosthuntingandotherhobbies cheers bud! 🍻 Will definitely be over to your channel to have a watch too! 👊👍🤘
Nice Ninja stars! 😉
🤣🤣🤣😎👊 They look like freaking ninja stars!? 🤷♂️🤣👍🤘👊 Thanks for the comment brother!
great job mate💪😎
Cheers bud! 🍻 Thanks for saying so, & watching.
Awesome rc bro
Thanks so much my friend! Hope you and your loved ones are well. 👊👍😎
RC wreck-creation 👍👍🏼👍🏻👍🏿🚭✍️
Thank you for the great comment. 👍👊😎👌🤘
Great how wreck creation
Thank you brother! 👊👍😎 Really appreciate you watching.
Ace video could you tell me the diff oil for the centre and rear if possible
Hey thanks for the positive comment man.
That is not an easy question to answer. Very difficult to find what the stock fluids are, but my source says stock cst values are:
•30000cst for front & rear
•200000cst for center
I have never changed my centre diff oil yet, but I have put 50000cst in the front & rear when Ive serviced them.
Meany thanks I have been having the same problem off finding out I wish losi would put it in the manual so we have a bace line
Had a slight problem in the centerdiff, some axial play and a leaky front diff. I was already wondering when i upgraded my SBR with alu diffcups and other Vitavon parts.
I went with the whole diff sirup story but it did not sit well with me. I delved into it some more last week waiting for a rebuild kit,
Those "Ninja stars" and round shims are your Clutch pack, this means the SBR 2.0 has limited sllip diffs so it does not need the diff sirup at all imho.
If you have a open diff, then yes, the thickness of the oil matters, but with a limited slip diff it should not, even though there is no preload spring.
I'm now rebuilding my front and central diffs and using automotive gearlube racing 75W-140 i'll keep you up to date how it goes and handles.
ruclips.net/video/WeLm7wHvdxQ/видео.html
Thanks for taking the time to leave that very elaborate comment. Can’t say I agree with some of what you said, but I really appreciate the enthusiasm for your ideas. I wouldn’t run any diffs dry if I were you? Those round & star shaped shims are to promote moving diff-fluid behind the gears they are backing. So it doesn’t just collect behind the gears in the cup.
If you do run your diffs without fluid (I don’t recommend it!) let me know how it goes? Thanks again for watching. 👍
So I watched the video link you sent. I see what you’re saying, but That’s based on an actual car & even though that’s how LSD works in a real diff, there are some factors of that explanation that don’t exist in the Losi diff, like the tension spring in the centre. Plus there’s nothing that allows the slight movement in order to add friction to the shims/clutch plates inside the Losi diff? So I can’t say the video is wrong, but I don’t think the Losi diffs work the way that video explains. I could be wrong, but I’d really like to see a video that is specific to the diffs in question & not compare the diff from a 1:1 vehicle to a 1:6 RC vehicle?
@@rcwreck-creation No no :-) I'm not running them dry, simply using automotive Diff oil instead of thick silicone RC sirrup ;-) :-)
That's what i'm wondering to, i should have taken pictures, but there were certainly marks on the clutchplates that sugested they have slip and grip, there was wear that indicates they are compressed, ie, the oil is pushed out through the holes in them resulting in friction ie "limited slip working".
How exactly i have no idea, i have some experience rebuilding diffs, overhauled the diff of my Jeep Willy CJ3a, and taking apart a limited slip diff for a 1970 Alfa Romeo GT used for racing. It had the same clutch plates, just not the holes and pretension playes a big part in it but there was no "spring" it has to be some mechanic with the gears spinning and centrifugal forces is my best guess.
I know i tend to go overboard since i have the SBR 2.0 and getting back in RC after 30 years and mixing in my limited knowledge, understanding and experience with 1:1 racing vehicles lol :-)
I'm still tuning the suspension the same way, I see the limitations in the shock design so no real recoil and rebound, but i'm having some succes with SBR tuning it on springrate rather then oil in the shocks. I wish i just could get a set of scale coilovers with adjustable external reservoirs and a ton of spring rates to choose from hahahahahahaha
I think it's just the SBR though, it's really the closest in RC, other then full custom builds, to real vehiclce setup, just not enough tuning parts for it haha.
Check my channel, there's a few test runs of the SBR 2.0 and ideas, perhaps you already seen those, even commented, andf perhaps i'm just overthinking it ;-) :-)
Hey I really appreciate the info from your experience. Definitely keep me posted? I’ll pop by your channel & have a watch. 👍👊
Bro.!! Why didn't you tell me that you're wife had a channel all jer very own.?!! And it's an awesome channel.!! I'm goimg to hit her up with a sub. Then I'm going to learn some stuff. 😊
You’re awesome Bri! Thank you so much! I have sent community posts out on my wife’s channel. I just figured any of my Subs who are interested in that stuff would check it out? Sorry homie, if I knew you hadn’t seen the posts & were into the scrap-booking? I for sure would have made sure you knew about it! 👍 Morgan told me about the stuff you said you’d send with the gift package for us. You can bet She’ll send you some stuff too with ours to you. 👊👍😎 Thanks again for your awesome support and enthusiasm my good friend. I will absolutely make sure to let you know about her scrap booking videos & Live broadcasts from now on. 😎🤘👊🍻
@@rcwreck-creation I subbed to her channel but if I miss more than two or three let me know. I have way too many subscriptions... ☹️ the important ones don't come through sometimes 😥
@@AMAZINGRC I hear ya, bud!