Shed Rotting At Bottom. Do I Need a New Shed?

My shed is rotting at the bottom. The rest of it is fine. How can I get a few more years out of my shed and save money?
You can extend the life of your shed without building a new shed. It is next level simple, in some regards. You can have a contractor do it. Or, if you're a DIYer with some power-up, you can get this done your own self, rock solid.
In this long, boring, poorly shot video with horrible audio, I show you all the steps I take to give new life to an old shed and in the process, save thousands of dollars.
While shooting, I call it a "water board". I mean "weather board". It's a detail in American carpentry that is centuries old. Anyway, the problem is that the factory-built shed's T1-11 siding has wicked up moisture from snow and rain and the glue and wood fiber has given up the ghost. The remaining 95% of the shed is fine, but the bottoms of the sidewalls and the door trim are bark mulch.
Here's how we fix it.
1 - Buy 1x10 PVC stock to wrap your shed. I got mine at Lowes. Wood-grain side is exposed
2 - Layout and cut the bottom of the existing shed cladding to accept the new 1-by piece
3 - You'll need multiple cutting tools to cut the metal corners and into the voids a circular won't reach, right down to diagonal cutting pliers (dikes) to pry out nails. And--safety glasses
4 - The secret to this system is preventing water from getting into the shed. Part 1 is to back-caulk the new weather board and smush it up against the existing cladding. A finish nailer works here, but I like narrow crown staples
5 - The doors need plinth blocks and a slightly different approach
6 - Part 2: Top-caulk after installing all weather boards
7 - Fixing fussy door hardware might just require a sip of lubricant, maybe minor adjustments
And, with a little sweat equity, as they say, you've spent a few hundred dollars to NOT spend $10,000 or more.
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[@richmel6245]

No z-bar flashing??

[@myfixituplife]

@@richmel6245 For a 30-year old shed looking for a budget fix? No. I did, however, think of shedding water and keeping it off the end grain of the siding (plywood of some kind). Caulk seals the joint. A chamfer enables water to shed easily.

[@ogstretcher3755]

What type of circular saw blade would you suggest for doing this? I was thinking just a framing blade?

[@myfixituplife]

Yeah, you're right. A typical general purpose blade. It' not out of the question you'll cut through a staple or nail doing this. I don't think I did on the sheds I've done this on, but safety glasses probably aren't a bad idea here.

[@SheilaSpencer1]

I know you're having fun as you narrate what you're doing, and I'm sure all the guys understand you, but for someone just learning how to do this, maybe speak a little more clearly for us. Because at 11:53 I'm trying to figure out what the heck a "Tuba Tree" is and why the fact that it's behind your door, is important. 🤦‍♀

[@myfixituplife]

I had to think about this for a moment, Sheila. - Being male doesn't make me any less looney, just for the record. A "tubba tree" is my mashed up lingo for 2x3. - I also can't write for everybody. I do try to generalize specific information and dose it with some semantic Tobasco so it's not dull as dirt, so you got me there. - I hope at least some of the video was helpful.

[@SheilaSpencer1]

@@myfixituplife yes, as soon as you opened the door, I saw the 2x3 and understood what you'd said. And then I did the face palm, lol.

[@sumitpatel9741]

Hey, Really Nice Video! I was wondering if I could Help You Edit Your Videos Make Highly Engaging

[@myfixituplife]

Thanks. We're good.