Very good video. I personally prefer leadscrews 8mm 1-start pitch 2mm lead 2mm. You have to turn them 4 times as much as the standard 4-start lead 8, screw. Also homing is slower. But it is practical impossible to accidently move z-down by force. Of course you can intentionally dearange or rearange z0 and z1 by hand rotating the screws manually. But that would not happen by accident. On the other hand, if you want autocalibration in Prusa style (moving up z more than possible until the motors skip to realign both sides - the mk3 already is designed so, for Ender I simply used some brakets mounted at the top of the z-axis as a "hard stop") lead 2mm might result in to much force. The main reason for 2mm lead is magic layerhight: a typical 1.8° stepper moter has 200 steps/totation. So with lead 2mm any full step (the most forcefull ones, fractions of steps makes movements smoother but do not result in much more precision on z) is 0.01mm high - making all layerhights "magic" and impoves ABL precision also. But this is only a personal preference; autoaligning with prusa-method might be more important for others. For the nuts I prefer POM insted of Anti-Backslash. The do not need service (they are self lubricant) and also have no backslash- Also they are extreme quite. For the coupler: I got fantastic results with thing 3941527, wich is a self-centering coupler. So spare the money for couplers and print theese with PETG.
Hi Cody. I'm truly embarrassed to say the least, and I have to apologize for the stupid comment I made. I deleted the comment once I acknowledged your age group, and probable young audience following. At the time, I'd been distracted and forgotten who my audience was. The comment was misplaced, because it was intended for a much older audience. I'm getting old and sometimes I'm coo-coo puffs. I love your videos. I find your content very interesting, well informed, and very professional. Again, I apologize.
I do not know what the comment was, but it must have been bad... I commend your public apology. I turn 60 this year and know what you mean about sometimes being coo-coo puffs. That hit me early when discovered I had a drinking problem. For me, I drastically reduced my crazies in 1995. I stopped drinking but still fight the coo-coos as I age. Good job on your public apology. I just got into 3D printing with a Longer LK5 Pro. Like you, I love this channel/videos/creators.
Thank you for including the LONGER! I am new to 3d filament printing and purchased a LONGER LK5 as a starter to build on, unfortunately its not as big of a community as the Awsome Ender Crowd(what a great community!)The LONGER seems to be a clone and well built so far. I am excited to add to my knowledge & experience base and you are a big help. I plan on upgrading to print flexables for my grommet project, and direct drive for flexibles and a dual drive setup will be the upgrades for now, I need a source for the longer's lead screw( It's a 4 start 8mmx500mm height), I already have the OMG extruder/stepper combo from your link, but won't install it untill I have printed the parts in this cool episode. and the proper lead screw etc.. Thanks again & warm regards from SoCal south. Jimbo C.
@@Dartherick Hi Erick ! No, However I bought the components but got sidetracked with life's uncomfortable realities. I'm not giving up on using the Longer with larger nozzles & the gear fed system. But a big fat Co2 laser table is a priority at the moment.. I wish I could give you a report..
There has been some debate on how to install the anti-backlash nut. Some say it should be with the spring on top. Also, the bubble level should not be used for leveling the bed. If the floor is uneven it will reflect on your printer.
Thank you for this video and the former corresponding video. I've been messing with 3d printing for about 2 years now and decided to go "stock stepper relocated" direct drive. You pretty much showed me where the problems lay and I thank you for it!
Excellent again! Only the z-offset between left and right can change. Just by leaning on the x-axis. Or bij unhelpful cats. That is the reason I implemented a GT2 timing belt on the top of both z-axis lead screws. So it is impossible to get them out of sync. ;)
She's driving them separately from the MoBo, and has a BL touch. This means its possible to use auto Z leveling via G-code. Alternatively increase the max Z distance and drive the axes against the stops before printing. Sounds like a coffee grinder but will sync them even if they are connected with a Y cable.
You can 3D print a stepper motor to lead screw coupler. There are several designs on thingiverse for these. Most use captive nuts. I did this on a homebrew printer and it worked very well. BTW, there is a VERY light weight direct drive extruder now available from Micro Swiss that can be used on the Ender 3 series that might not require a second Z axis drive screw. It uses a pancake motor, and a geared drive. Also, the auto bed leveling system should correct for the drop of the z axis between the two sides with a single z stepper system. So the need for the second z stepper is questionable. Consider that many printers such as the Ender 2 series, and the Prusa Mini don't even have support for the Y axis on both sides, let alone two drive screws. Printerbot made such a printer, and it had a direct drive extruder.
Very nice but running a dual z with a splitter cable is not so great .. id would be better to run dual z with 2 stepper drivers seperatly as ive tried it out .. you would need a btt skr board in order to achieve
Thank you! I just have a question: once the printer is in direct drive mode, will you keep the original feeder and motor's support? I would love to mirror the new z-axes plate to replace the whole metal plate so that it doesn't have that useless support, but on the left we have the x-axes stepper motor, so the plate need to be modified... Unfortunately with fusion360 I cannot do it with your stl. If you could upload the whole project I could try to do this. Otherwise, do you have any other idea?
Really do like the information you put out. Thank you for takimg the time to do it. I was looking to add a dual z to my ender v2 however i also see belt driven types. I was looking to see your thoughts on overall reliability and precision of each?
The belt type supposed to be a cost saving solution, but if you buy a kit, it’s almost the same price as the kit with extra stepper motor, moreover, if your motherboard support has dual stepper drivers for the z axis, you can use g34 to do auto z-align if you have 2 stepper motors.
@@AuroraTech I installed a Creality second Z drive. The problem is the steppers were not always in sync, and I could not move the Z axis manually. I put a longer screw on the right side, extending above the tojp rail, timing pullleys on both Z axis screws with a hand crank on the longer screw, and an adjustable tensioning pulley on the vertical frame piece. Now the two sides stay in sync, and I can manually raise/ and lower the gantry for bed cleaning, leveling, etc.
Does this applies to the Longer LK5 Pro you review previously?... Can I just buy the items from the list and that will be it. Let me know if you can and what great videos you have a subscriber.
Yes, I used the same support plate on the LK5 Pro dual-Z upgrade, you need a 500mm lead screw instead of 350mm for LK5 Pro. 500mm lead screw: ebay.us/s2fJ04
@@AuroraTech Hi there, I got the printer but the people from Longer Amazon send me the LK5, not the Pro version. I am keeping the printer because I believe it will be a good platform to learn as a beginner. Does the LK5 Pro dual-Z upgrade apply to this printer? Also what other upgrades do you recommend for the LK5? I don't know if I can make it into the Pro version ;). It might be a fun project to do... Thank you for the videos and channel. Cheers...
Hi, this is the board schematics, you can find the second spot for the Z motor -» eji4evk5kxx.exactdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/LGT_KIT_V1.0-schematics.jpg?lossy=1&w=2560&ssl=1
what does the anti-backlash screw do? I did z-hop on my ender 3 because the nozzle kept scraping across the printed part alot without it. I'm getting a CR-6 SE soon, would I benefit of those screws?
Can i use the back plate support for my ender 3v2? Is it the same placing of bolts and orientation? Thank you for answering sorry i am a beginner on 3d printing😊
The frame is Alfawise U30 Pro (or LK4 Pro), this printer is using many other parts with different brands like Creality, BigTreeTech... I decided the plate based on the Alfawise frame.
Aurora is a joy to watch! The "cut scenes" are very enjoyable. She is so professional in presentation its nice to see she is still human.
The most under rated 3D printing channel on youtube. All the information on this channel is as good as any other channel or even better.
Fantastic, Aurora is one of my favorite tech experts on RUclips and it's great to see how great she was even when she was much younger! Go Aurora!
What a smart girl~ voice is so clear and the expressions are very professional
I didn’t even know you could hack together a dual Z axis setup. Well done and thank you!
Very good video.
I personally prefer leadscrews 8mm 1-start pitch 2mm lead 2mm. You have to turn them 4 times as much as the standard 4-start lead 8, screw. Also homing is slower. But it is practical impossible to accidently move z-down by force. Of course you can intentionally dearange or rearange z0 and z1 by hand rotating the screws manually. But that would not happen by accident. On the other hand, if you want autocalibration in Prusa style (moving up z more than possible until the motors skip to realign both sides - the mk3 already is designed so, for Ender I simply used some brakets mounted at the top of the z-axis as a "hard stop") lead 2mm might result in to much force.
The main reason for 2mm lead is magic layerhight: a typical 1.8° stepper moter has 200 steps/totation. So with lead 2mm any full step (the most forcefull ones, fractions of steps makes movements smoother but do not result in much more precision on z) is 0.01mm high - making all layerhights "magic" and impoves ABL precision also.
But this is only a personal preference; autoaligning with prusa-method might be more important for others.
For the nuts I prefer POM insted of Anti-Backslash. The do not need service (they are self lubricant) and also have no backslash- Also they are extreme quite.
For the coupler: I got fantastic results with thing 3941527, wich is a self-centering coupler. So spare the money for couplers and print theese with PETG.
Definitely the best video on the subject. Keep going!
Hi Cody. I'm truly embarrassed to say the least, and I have to apologize for the stupid comment I made. I deleted the comment once I acknowledged your age group, and probable young audience following. At the time, I'd been distracted and forgotten who my audience was. The comment was misplaced, because it was intended for a much older audience. I'm getting old and sometimes I'm coo-coo puffs. I love your videos. I find your content very interesting, well informed, and very professional. Again, I apologize.
I do not know what the comment was, but it must have been bad... I commend your public apology. I turn 60 this year and know what you mean about sometimes being coo-coo puffs. That hit me early when discovered I had a drinking problem. For me, I drastically reduced my crazies in 1995. I stopped drinking but still fight the coo-coos as I age. Good job on your public apology. I just got into 3D printing with a Longer LK5 Pro. Like you, I love this channel/videos/creators.
Thank you for including the LONGER!
I am new to 3d filament printing and purchased a LONGER LK5 as a starter to build on, unfortunately its not as big of a community as the Awsome Ender Crowd(what a great community!)The LONGER seems to be a clone and well built so far. I am excited to add to my knowledge & experience base and you are a big help. I plan on upgrading to print flexables for my grommet project, and direct drive for flexibles and a dual drive setup will be the upgrades for now, I need a source for the longer's lead screw( It's a 4 start 8mmx500mm height), I already have the OMG extruder/stepper combo from your link, but won't install it untill I have printed the parts in this cool episode. and the proper lead screw etc..
Thanks again & warm regards from SoCal south.
Jimbo C.
Did you make all the upgrades you mention? I have a longer lk4 pro (very similar to lk5) and I'd like to make some upgrades too.
@@Dartherick Hi Erick ! No, However I bought the components but got sidetracked with life's uncomfortable realities. I'm not giving up on using the Longer with larger nozzles & the gear fed system. But a big fat Co2 laser table is a priority at the moment.. I wish I could give you a report..
There has been some debate on how to install the anti-backlash nut. Some say it should be with the spring on top. Also, the bubble level should not be used for leveling the bed. If the floor is uneven it will reflect on your printer.
I'm thinking of getting into 3D printing. This kind of information really helps me make the commitment. Thanks for your efforts
Thank you for this video and the former corresponding video. I've been messing with 3d printing for about 2 years now and decided to go "stock stepper relocated" direct drive. You pretty much showed me where the problems lay and I thank you for it!
Best and most detailed, cost saving, informative dual z upgrade video.
Excellent again! Only the z-offset between left and right can change. Just by leaning on the x-axis. Or bij unhelpful cats. That is the reason I implemented a GT2 timing belt on the top of both z-axis lead screws. So it is impossible to get them out of sync. ;)
She's driving them separately from the MoBo, and has a BL touch. This means its possible to use auto Z leveling via G-code. Alternatively increase the max Z distance and drive the axes against the stops before printing. Sounds like a coffee grinder but will sync them even if they are connected with a Y cable.
Good job, this is one of the best videos I have seen on the topic.
Very well peresented, detailed and researched video. Absolutely love it.
Your videos are so informative! Thank you!
Great video I feel confident that i could add a dual z axis to my ender 3 pro now. Thank you for the great work!
More information then anywere else for sure.
Hi there 👋 and thanks for your help .
Okay, you convinced me! Bought the kit, let’s see how it goes :D
You can 3D print a stepper motor to lead screw coupler. There are several designs on thingiverse for these. Most use captive nuts. I did this on a homebrew printer and it worked very well.
BTW, there is a VERY light weight direct drive extruder now available from Micro Swiss that can be used on the Ender 3 series that might not require a second Z axis drive screw. It uses a pancake motor, and a geared drive.
Also, the auto bed leveling system should correct for the drop of the z axis between the two sides with a single z stepper system. So the need for the second z stepper is questionable. Consider that many printers such as the Ender 2 series, and the Prusa Mini don't even have support for the Y axis on both sides, let alone two drive screws. Printerbot made such a printer, and it had a direct drive extruder.
Aurora how old you are? There is a great future in your hands
excellent detail and information!
Great video except you do not show how to add the second stepper connector to the main board which, in an ender 3, only has ONE Z axis connector....
thank you so much im going to put this on my ender 3 pro
At 9:15 Using a bubble level....
What about if the table is not level?
I would just make the gantry relatively level to the bed and don't care about the floor, table, or other things outside the printer
Can i just 3d print the spacers
Very nice but running a dual z with a splitter cable is not so great .. id would be better to run dual z with 2 stepper drivers seperatly as ive tried it out .. you would need a btt skr board in order to achieve
Where on the motherboard because I have the Lk5 pro and I want to attach to it
Nice video, Although, I am thinking of doing a core xz modification to my ender 3.
That would be a huge mod, looking forward to seeing that :)
Nice sharing, just curious how do you connect your 2nd z step motor to the motor board, any tweak to the firmware to support the duo z axis printer?
Shouldn't be a tweak, 32 bit mobos should just mirror the actions of the original stepper, from what I gather
She is so cute.
the link for the longer lk5 pro screw plate is broken... it leads to a 404... any way you could update this link?
Thank you! I just have a question: once the printer is in direct drive mode, will you keep the original feeder and motor's support? I would love to mirror the new z-axes plate to replace the whole metal plate so that it doesn't have that useless support, but on the left we have the x-axes stepper motor, so the plate need to be modified... Unfortunately with fusion360 I cannot do it with your stl. If you could upload the whole project I could try to do this. Otherwise, do you have any other idea?
Sure, I just uploaded the f3d file on thingiverse, you can download the updated files:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774889
@@AuroraTech thank you!!
@03.06 Why didnt you also print spacers ?
Really do like the information you put out. Thank you for takimg the time to do it. I was looking to add a dual z to my ender v2 however i also see belt driven types. I was looking to see your thoughts on overall reliability and precision of each?
The belt type supposed to be a cost saving solution, but if you buy a kit, it’s almost the same price as the kit with extra stepper motor, moreover, if your motherboard support has dual stepper drivers for the z axis, you can use g34 to do auto z-align if you have 2 stepper motors.
@@AuroraTech thank you
@@AuroraTech I installed a Creality second Z drive. The problem is the steppers were not always in sync, and I could not move the Z axis manually. I put a longer screw on the right side, extending above the tojp rail, timing pullleys on both Z axis screws with a hand crank on the longer screw, and an adjustable tensioning pulley on the vertical frame piece. Now the two sides stay in sync, and I can manually raise/ and lower the gantry for bed cleaning, leveling, etc.
Hi, i got a old school Creality CR10, but i got trouble with the setting, may i know how to contact you? I need some guide from you.
Hello Aurora, I'm looking to upgrade my Longer LK5 Pro. Would these parts suffice?
Very good
Does this applies to the Longer LK5 Pro you review previously?... Can I just buy the items from the list and that will be it. Let me know if you can and what great videos you have a subscriber.
Yes, I used the same support plate on the LK5 Pro dual-Z upgrade, you need a 500mm lead screw instead of 350mm for LK5 Pro.
500mm lead screw:
ebay.us/s2fJ04
@@AuroraTech Hi there, I got the printer but the people from Longer Amazon send me the LK5, not the Pro version. I am keeping the printer because I believe it will be a good platform to learn as a beginner. Does the LK5 Pro dual-Z upgrade apply to this printer? Also what other upgrades do you recommend for the LK5? I don't know if I can make it into the Pro version ;). It might be a fun project to do... Thank you for the videos and channel. Cheers...
You’re great!
I did this upgrade to my longer lk5 pro but the new motor is spinning slower than the old motor. Any idea how I can fix this? Thanks
Hi, did you solve your issue??
I need to know how to do it on the Lk5 pro so can you please help me
Hi, this is the board schematics, you can find the second spot for the Z motor -» eji4evk5kxx.exactdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/LGT_KIT_V1.0-schematics.jpg?lossy=1&w=2560&ssl=1
DO NOT LEAVE THE POWER SUPPLY EXPOSED WITHOUT THE COVER! RISK OF LIFE-ENDING ELECTRICAL SHOCK!
what does the anti-backlash screw do? I did z-hop on my ender 3 because the nozzle kept scraping across the printed part alot without it. I'm getting a CR-6 SE soon, would I benefit of those screws?
Please take a look at this article, well explained:
www.liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Backlash.htm
@@AuroraTech Thank you :)
Hi, if I have both bl touch and a diy direct drive, wouldnt the bl touch compensate the sloping angle as it goes to the right side? Thanks
Which brand belt tensioning kit are you using on this printer?
Can i use the ender 3 bracket for my ender 3 v2 or a the bolt holes different?
Do you need to modify the mA? Because there are already 2 motors on the z axis.
Thank you for sharing
ALL LOVE 💖 Love fear 🙏 Namaste
Beatiful
everyday i re watch this behind the scenes video lol
Fantastica ❤️❤️❤️
Can i use the back plate support for my ender 3v2? Is it the same placing of bolts and orientation? Thank you for answering sorry i am a beginner on 3d printing😊
You should this Ender-3 back plate (the same plate for Ender-3 / Pro / V2).
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4604524
Which printer are you modding in this video? You said you used the plate from the Alfawise but the print bed says Creality.
The frame is Alfawise U30 Pro (or LK4 Pro), this printer is using many other parts with different brands like Creality, BigTreeTech... I decided the plate based on the Alfawise frame.
00:51 why the tongue...
You are a crak.👍👍👍👍👍
creapy
What do you mean?