I have performed all of these upgrades to my Maxx. I would like to add that the control arm hinge pin kit using hex screw is also a nice upgrade as the stock pins tend to back out when bashing. I have not broken anything on my Maxx. It is a tank and holds up better mechanically than my X-Maxx. The only thing that went out on mine was the ESC. But thanks to Traxxas' excellent customer service, I sent in the motor and ESC after a year of ownership and they replaced both free of charge! Traxxas may cost more than other RC's but my experience has been that you are part of the family with plenty of support.
Thanks for the video! Just got the Maxx a couple weeks ago. First rc car I've had in 30 years. It's awesome! I broke a couple parts within the first 20 minutes and had to wait for replacement parts. But since then I've been much harder on it and had nothing break. Got the wide kit on it. Been hopping between your site and my local hobby shop for parts. Getting new proline tires and gear delivered from you guys later today. Thank you again for all your great videos! I've learned all sorts of ways to dump $ into this new hobby. 🤣 Quit nicotine recently and this has been a great distraction. Granted, when I broke it within 20 minutes I almost lost my mind, but again, much better since then.
Great video and explanation of upgrades & noting that you don't HAVE to upgrade! I see SO MANY new people buy a brand new car and the first thing they do is ask what do they upgrade, never have driven the car...
This is a great video. Thank you Brett for taking the time to do this! I just ordered the Solar Flair Maxx, and I’ll be doing these upgrades over time as needed.
Thanks for the top tip re servo saver (6.07-6.43) what a difference 👍 I remembered this from watching this vid first time around, so just circling back for a big thanks and shout out as 6 months on, I finally changed that part and the difference is amazing, it’s really solidified the steering and removed most of the steering play I’d been living with 👍👍😊 Thank you sir 🤟
Great! Over time it's easy to forget how the steering used to feel until you refresh the parts. Happy to hear that helped and thanks for coming back to let us know. -Brett
Couple things I'd point out as a maxx v1 owner and having done all these upgrades.... Fuel line on the dog bones, 4s 6700 or better will waller out the cutouts in the drive cups. Aluminum bell crank, aluminum servo horn and aluminum/titanium toe links. The plastic won't hold up to decent bashing. Keeps the steering tight and right, just need to keep clean. Hinge pins back out. I captured mine with hardware I had at home but they do sell kits. Shocks...outta the box they're not great. At least up the shock weight but I found a big difference going to a full aluminum progressive shock.
One of the main reasons that I like ordering from you guys! AMain Hobbies, goes the extra mile on showing us what is great to upgrade, how to fix stuff, what not to do and on top of all that. You guys have great customer support and really good prices. The only complaint I personally have is, it would be nice to see you guys try some of the more affordable parts and electronics. I have been trying some of the cheaper servos and tires and they are holding up just as good, Like the Hobbystar steering servo and the Duratrax tires and wheels. They have been a great way to save money with the gas prices being so high now days. I love your videos and as always, Thank you for all your help.
Love your vids, always so much info you never leave anything out like needing the wheel hex's and hex nuts for the steel driveshafts..great job, but that's the difference from people who know and love the hobby to people who don't....👍👍
When the quarantine hit i got back into rc after being out of it for about 10 years I bought my daughter and me a x maxx a maxx and a stampede the maxx has been the only truck that hasn't needed anything we bought the wide maxx kit and haven't even put it on it just goes and takes all our abuse and asks for nothing but another charged batterie we live in az our trucks have never seen concrete or asphalt before only mud dirt and silt the maxx is one tuff truck
Been debating getting the Kraton for my first RC, but starting to lean hard towards the Maxx due to it’s durability. Cost was the main driver before, but I keep reading comments like yours that make me want to shell out the extra dough and get it right the first time.
I have both and I drive the maxx more with all these upgrades and it’s the best car (you can find better in different categories of course) but if your looking for a little of everything from being built like a tank to functionality like flipping and bashing this thing is amazing! It may not maneuver like the revo but will definitely take more of a beating
@@mellowpunk85 The revo is still a pretty tough machine while driving much better. I'd take a revo over a maxx. Yeah, the maxx is stronger, but the revo is better in every other way. It's faster, it's bigger, it has more torque, it's more stable, it handles better, it has more power, it's more controllable in the air, it jumps much nicer, it just goes on and on.
@@gasolinediesel972 I’d say the exact opposite. I have both and the Maxx is by far the better built truck and is much more fun to drive. EREVO is poorly engineered, it’s slower and is fragile and it cannot handle jumps.
I just built the totally Tubular Traxxas Max 4s Monster Truck Made mine 6s capable everything else is stock. Blx 185 on a plate screwed into the original esc mount 👊😀 4 s is good enough for me 👍 Rock and Roll edition body. I love it. 🦾👍
Excellent content and do enjoy the "Top 5 Best" video series. Also enjoy the Traxxas information. Very informative and thank you for the effort putting the vids together.
@@zackhermsen9198 They will probably rub on the body which may be fixable by trimming it with scissors but it's hard to say without trying them. Those are really big tires. -Brett
How do you use the UDR wheels if you have the CVD driveshafts? I purchased the UDR wheels for my Maxx but have the CVD driveshafts and they don’t fit. Please help me if you can. Thanx.
i got a maxx about 2 years ago and within a month of running it on a football pitch the stock servo broke twice so i decided to get a metal servo for the same price as a traxxas one and its not even scratched.
Do u have a xmaxx ! I was thinking a buddy wants to trade me his like new widenaxx and a erevo 2.0 for my xmaxx or just buy the erevo 2.0 off him for 275 and keep my xmaxx i love the size it donr get stuck anywhere its fun in snow and hillclimbs its unstoppable
@@gasolinediesel972 i am goin to . I have the cash but I can trade my xmaxx for it decent shape and a like new widemaxx or just buy the erevo 2.0 has steel center drive shafts proline brute body
@@paulcherry1520 An xmaxx for an E-revo 2.0 and widemaxx is a pretty fair trade, but if you buy the E-revo, then you'll have an xmaxx and an E-revo. If you trade, then you'll have a widemaxx and an E-revo. I'd rather have an xmaxx and an E-revo. Don't trade it. Buy the E-revo and he keeps the maxx.
@@gasolinediesel972 yes I love the xmaxx and have the extra 275 laying around from selling a buggy ! So ill keep the xmaxx and buy the erevo and down the road maybe buy the maxx
...And I'm watching this video even though I don't have a Maxx, (or any other Traxxas vehicle for that matter) and I don't like Traxxas that much. Why am I watching this then, you ask? Because Amain hobbies uploaded...
It's also good to mention that if you cover the holes on the inside of a rim and intend to do jumps you'll need to vent somewhere otherwise you'll blow the tires out so if you're going to run in wet environments either don't jump or seal the rim holes and punch holes on the outside so water can easily escape...
No. The original wheels are made for 17mm hubs, but they have this washer than makes them a 5mm. The washer is removable and the wheel can be used with a 17mm hub.
just a question which one should i buy? Castle Creations Mamba Monster X 8S 33.6V ESC with 1717-1260Kv Sensored Motor Combo? which one is the best for my buck? thank you
I love my Maxx but I've burned up the 4s VXL and now the VXL 6s. I think it's my belted Badlands but my Maxx bashes so good with them so I'm converting everything to 6s.
Hello Brett. Excellent no BS video as usual. Thanks for pro tips ! I just tried your recommendation of the UDR wheels with the Hyrax tires on the maxx and I am having some issues. I have a widemaxx and the wheels appear to fit but I noticed that the wheel hex doesn't go in all the way into the wheel and that about 2mm of hex is exposed. That little nipple that's part of the hex is whats preventing the wheel to be fully inserted. Further, the stub axle on the widemaxx appears to be a smaller width versus the thicker stub axle on the UDR wheel so there is a little bit of play. When I fully tightened the flanged nylon nut, the wheel appears to be tight and stable but not sure how this will hold up in a bash session. It appears your setup is working great with the UDR wheels. Have you had any issues with your setup and have experienced a similar issue? Will keeping these UDR wheels on the widemaxx be reliable setup? Thanks in Advance! Keep up the good videos! You sound like an announcer.
Brett, can you please give a link to the UDR tires? Would the ones you like be good all around and bashing? Are there any down sides to using them on a MAXX? You mentioned the size loses top speed but adds torque, would I need to change gearing at all? If I upgrade to MMX with 1515 motor would I need to change gears? And finally, If I run these with MMX 1515 would it make the esc and motor run hotter or cooler? I know it’s alt of questions but you’re the man to ask. Congratulations on the the event’s you won.
The UDR wheels only fit the Maxx with the stock driveshafts; if you add the upgraded steel Maxx driveshafts they do not fit the wheels. But here are the tires: www.amainhobbies.com/proline-unlimited-desert-racer-udr-hyrax-tires-w-inserts-2-z4-pro10163-00/p-qqqrtawqlc2xqctz?v=997147 They mount up on any UDR wheel and require no gearing changes. If you change motors you may need to change your gearing, but you'll just have to try it and experiment. -Brett
I think I’ve started to notice a bit of slop in my ecopower 120t. Not sure how that happened but I’ve looked elsewhere and haven’t found anything else that it could be.
Hi Bret, Thanks for the video. I have one question, how about if I change my transmitter to the others brand will it still work or perform the same as the original? Thanks.
With a new transmitter and receiver, you will lose the Self-Righting function, and TSM; an aftermarket steering gyro can do the work of TSM if you need that back but S.O.L. on the self-righting. Everything else should function as normal. -Brett
I own a Traxxas slash 4x4 and it has a steel spur gear and a steel traxxas pinion gear. But the pinion gear is breaking every time I drive and it’s getting me mad. And the gear mesh was set right.?
Hmm.. -Both gears are the same pitch? -Is the slipper too tight? -Is the motor shaft, or slipper shaft bent? if they wobble = bad -Is a shaft bearing going out? that could cause wobble Let me know what you find. -Brett
For your #3 upgrade, if going with the ProTek R/C 370TBL Waterproof Servo, what is the servo horn adapter or modified part that I need to purchase as well in order to make that servo work in the Maxx? I did not know if any servo horn will work it is just the matter or modifying the front chassis brace or if it was also modifying or buying a specific servo adapter.
It was just some generic ProTek aluminum horn that was shorter. You need to dremel the horn to make it fit like mentioned in the video. There is also the Hot Racing aluminum link and horn: www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-aluminum-fixed-steering-link-w-25t-servo-arm-hramxx48sh25/p1164523 -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Brett thanks I do appreciate it. So other than modifying the chasis brace you also had to dremel the horn. I thought that is what I heard but could not see the work done in the video only on the chassis brace. With the Hot Racing aluminum link and horn would you need to modify that with a dremel as well? Keep up the great videos I am loving them and getting me back into RC after 14 years away.
@@DonnieKluck Happy to hear you're getting back in RC Donnie! Very cool. Your Maxx is a great truck to get back in it. If you use the Hot Racing setup, I do not think any modification is required, which is really nice. That Hot Racing setup is the only one I know of for the Maxx too. For our custom setup, the top brace and horn required some dremel work, but it didn't take long. I think I still have our horn we used, I could send it to you? Servo not included ;) -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Dang no servo included, I guess beggers cant be choosers. I would totally take the old servo horn if you dont mind that would be awesome. As I bought the servo already just to have on hand for when I need to replace it or whenever I figured out how to connect it with the correct servo horn. So yes would totally take it fine sir. Thanks yeah I am enjoying the Maxx a lot but now I am like do I want an X-Maxx or Kraton 8s or go more like E-Revo or Kraton 6s. Not sure at all but man oh man the Maxx is fun and I forgot what I was missing.
Slightly reduced performance from your tire insert. The foam works best when they can breath but they'll still function sealed up. I'd recommend to rest your car elevated on a car stand or something similar when you're not using it. This will help prevent flat spots on the tires and foam inserts, and help them last longer. -Brett
No, probably not. The last video about lightening the car and finding more speed was a good place to end it. Did you see that video: ruclips.net/video/jgKKhMlBM1Y/видео.html After that video, our B74.1 is dialed! I'm not sure what else to do other than drive and enjoy it. -Brett
I'm getting my boyfriend the Maxx for Christmas (he has no idea!) and this is what I've put on the list of other items to get with it right away. Feedback would be great if I missed anything or should change anything: 17mm hubs and nuts Wide kit 2 - 4S batteries and charger Link Module Proline Trencher 3.8 tires Steel driveshaft Diff oil 50 Shock oil wt's 50/60/80 Have I missed anything? I want him to be a happy camper on Christmas day!
Wow, impressive list that covers about everything! Just tell him to keep in mind the larger 3.8 tires act like gearing up the vehicle, so he may need to gear down to keep the electronics from overheating. But, it depends on how hot/cold your environment is, and where he drives (mud or sand are much harder on the vehicle than pavement or smooth dirt). Hope you have an r/c too! -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies how do we change gear settings? Anything else to add? I'm going to save up for the X Maxx for myself. Then when we hit the park, I will be cooler haha! But that is a year away. Thanks for the great videos!
If the ESC dies after 35 days we recommend you contact Traxxas for a warranty replacement. Theoretically, you could upgrade the ESC to something 6S but just use the vehicle on 4S instead, with that option to use a 6S for special occasions. But we don't recommend a 6S Maxx for normal use; it's near undriveable. -Brett
Thinking about doing a 6s conversion on my Maxx since my esc went out. I wanna keep running 4S but am thinking about going to the VXL6S as an upgrade. If I put this battery strap in is there any reason why I shouldn’t stack batteries? Let say if I want to stack a pair of 3s’ in series?
@@newjonwayne The vxl 6s is a drop in mod for the maxx, all you need are new battery straps. The esc comes with 2 traxxas connectors. I don't recommend doing this mod though. The maxx can't really handle 6s. It's just too much power for the truck.
If you're going to stack batteries, you'll want another battery strap going perpendicular to the first, so one to capture long ways, and one to capture width. Otherwise you're unprotected on that axis and the battery has the potential to fling out. I would not recommend two batteries, or converting your truck to 6S, as we mentioned in your last comment. -Brett
It adds a little weight but no, the truck handles it no problem. If you were to add pounds of weight it might be an issue but aluminum is pretty lightweight, only slightly heavier than the equivalent plastic part. -Brett
Hey again Bobbie just wanna say this was another great video and wondering if you can ship the arrma granite to Australia because I really want it but can’t find it in australia
Howdy Mate! We do ship to Australia although not all items can ship international, usually because it's either deemed hazardous for international travel or maybe because of a manufacturer restriction. For Arrma, I believe it falls under the latter but maybe give it a try. -Brett
@@I_nutted_in_ur_mum That's ok on the name. For Traxxas items though, I believe we are only allowed to sell within North America per their rules. I've very sorry about that. You may want to take a look at eBay if possible, but other than, that you'll need to source a local Traxxas dealer. -Brett
Hmm, I don't know of any. That uses a larger than standard short course tire but I'm unfamiliar with what else will fit. You may want to do some google searching to see what others have tried. -Brett
@@anotherstar8125 Changing the larger spur gear makes big adjustments, changing the pinion gear makes fine adjustments, which is all we need in this case. For larger tires, usually going down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion is all that's needed, but you need to do a little trial and error to see what is right for you, the terrain you drive in, and your local climate. -Brett
@@anotherstar8125 Keep in mind, if you live somewhere cold, you might not have to gear down at all. If you live somewhere really hot, you might need to gear down more than 2 teeth. It just depends on how hot your motor gets when driving it, and adjust from there. Hope that helps. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you for taking the time to really explain this for me. I'm sure many others will find this helpful, especially the point you make about the climate. I live in SoCal, near Palm Springs, so it looks like I'm going to be looking forward to playing around with dropping 2+ teeth. That being said, the winters here can get into the mid/upper 30F, would that mean I would have to gear back up then or would it be okay to keep the lower gearing?
You'll need some screws and nuts because it doesn't perfectly clip-in like the old fan. We show how in this video at about 5:25: ruclips.net/video/_wegSAKX-3A/видео.html -Brett
I believe we used the black version: PTK-2111 www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-30x30x10mm-aluminum-high-speed-hv-cooling-fan-silver-black-ptk-2111/p995313 -Brett
It's body flex. Your hearing the edges of the body hit the chassis as it flexes. I haven't seen any good solutions, most people that try to solve this issue end up putting something on the edges of the body or try to tighten the body fit somehow but that isn't necessarily a good idea. The body needs to move to flex, if it doesn't flex it will crack instead.
Cut the body a little especially where the body hits the bumpers. Alot of people think they are hearing chassis slap but it's the body hitting the bumpers an the side guards the body sits in
I’m just curious but out of all of the recommendations you guys gave, why don’t you recommend just taping up the holes on the insides of the wheels up full-time and just poking some holes on the top of the tires so that you don’t have to put tape on and tape off when especially when you put tape on and have no hole in the tire, your tire doesn’t have any way for the air to vent like it should. Great video regardless, though. And oh, about the re-gearing of the pinion gear… Is that really necessary being that, well, like the Proline Badlands; which I do have but those aren’t much taller than the factory tires so is re-gearing really necessary, or are you only recommending that if you run those tires and notice your motor is running a little warmer than usual? I like my badlands but that tread doesn’t seem to really like a lot of asphalt so unless I have a lot of dirt or sand to run on I just use my 5.75 inch regular Traxxas Talons so should I re-gear my pinion? I haven’t really paid that much attention to it but I don’t think my motor is overheating because of those tires but then again, whereas the Proline Badlands are 5.85 inches tall, the factory tires are 5 1/2 inches tall, my Traxxas talons are 5.75 inches tall which is only like a quarter of an inch or so taller than the factory tires. The only other thing I don’t like about my pro lines is the fact that the whole width of the tire is exactly the same width as the wheel is so there is absolutely no protection whatsoever around the bead of the tire and the edge of the wheels. I run my Traxxas Talons with those Traxxas geode wheels that have the option to use the optional bead protector and they work out really good
Hey Bill. We don't show poking holes in the tires because it's not a method we use. And honestly, it presents the same problem as mentioned in this video, just not as bad. If you're going to drive in wet conditions, I wouldn't recommend any wheel or tire holes. Basher tires are too expensive to risk it in my opinion, or to recommend to others. For the re-gearing, the necessity of it will depend on the driver, the terrain they drive in, how hard they drive the vehicle, and their local climate. People who drive full-throttle in sand on a 100°F day will find it necessary to gear down. Those driving in grass when it's 65°F day will probably not. R/C is very situational. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Well yeah, I can see how adding air vent holes to the top of the tire could present not as bad of a problem with water intrusion but to me, having the hole in the tire rather on the top rather than the wheel, at least with a few hi speed runs after driving and wet conditions the centrifugal force of the tire will sling a really good amount of residual water out of the tire but I guess my only main concern was not to bash on what your guys do, I just wasn’t sure about not having any air ventilation at all with the two wheel holes taped when you’re running through wet conditions. Isn’t that bad for the tire if it causes excessive pressure to build up and probably pop your tire beads loose? I guess if I would’ve known that it’s OK to tape up those holes when you’re going to run the risk of water intrusion but still be OK with not having any ventilation in your tire at all I probably would’ve gone that route but so far having some really clean holes in my tire tread seems to work out really well. But yeah, that makes sense about the gearing. I suppose I probably could drop down a tooth if somebody makes one being that even though those factory tires go totally suck, I pretty much just don’t even run on them anymore because I like my other ones way better.
@@gasolinediesel972 ease up on the assumptions, I was just curious because if it’s ok to just plug those holes with no other means of ventilation from the inside of the tire then why do the wheels have air holes and why do they make tire punches for I’m assuming wheels that don’t have air holes?
Great videos man! I feel like the MAXX are more indestractable than XMAXX probably because of that power and weight difference. Now sell me the used RCs! lol (im serious) lol
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have performed all of these upgrades to my Maxx. I would like to add that the control arm hinge pin kit using hex screw is also a nice upgrade as the stock pins tend to back out when bashing. I have not broken anything on my Maxx. It is a tank and holds up better mechanically than my X-Maxx. The only thing that went out on mine was the ESC. But thanks to Traxxas' excellent customer service, I sent in the motor and ESC after a year of ownership and they replaced both free of charge! Traxxas may cost more than other RC's but my experience has been that you are part of the family with plenty of support.
Same here! Did ur second one hold up so far?
@@mattreadle4566 yes
@@mattreadle4566 So far so good. Sorry for the late response
6666666
6v6
You know the maxx is selling really good when Amain hobbies makes a upgrade video for it!
This is the second upgrade video!
It’s a cool truck I’m glad it’s doing well. People are doing super cool stuff with them. Driving across water, pulling their kids around in wagons
@@fueltoblaze1554 um no it isnt
Most helpful guy on RUclips for rc cars!
Thanks for the video! Just got the Maxx a couple weeks ago. First rc car I've had in 30 years. It's awesome! I broke a couple parts within the first 20 minutes and had to wait for replacement parts. But since then I've been much harder on it and had nothing break. Got the wide kit on it. Been hopping between your site and my local hobby shop for parts. Getting new proline tires and gear delivered from you guys later today. Thank you again for all your great videos! I've learned all sorts of ways to dump $ into this new hobby. 🤣
Quit nicotine recently and this has been a great distraction. Granted, when I broke it within 20 minutes I almost lost my mind, but again, much better since then.
Heck yeah man! Quit some bad habits, pick up some good ones. Happy to hear you're back in r/c and driving; good for you Blake!
-Brett
6:58 Whoever got those shots deserves an Academy Award (or whatever awards awesome filmmakers get).
Pretty sure that’s from a Traxxas promo video
Yeah
That’s the official Traxxas video “Go Wide! widemaxx ”
Great video and explanation of upgrades & noting that you don't HAVE to upgrade! I see SO MANY new people buy a brand new car and the first thing they do is ask what do they upgrade, never have driven the car...
This is a great video. Thank you Brett for taking the time to do this! I just ordered the Solar Flair Maxx, and I’ll be doing these upgrades over time as needed.
Thanks for the top tip re servo saver (6.07-6.43) what a difference 👍 I remembered this from watching this vid first time around, so just circling back for a big thanks and shout out as 6 months on, I finally changed that part and the difference is amazing, it’s really solidified the steering and removed most of the steering play I’d been living with 👍👍😊 Thank you sir 🤟
Great! Over time it's easy to forget how the steering used to feel until you refresh the parts. Happy to hear that helped and thanks for coming back to let us know.
-Brett
Awesome video Bret!! Love all them upgrade choices and I’m just like you I love my tires! 😁🍻
Let’s see some bashing with a variety of cars! I haven’t seen you bash in a while, always nice to see some bashing on your older RCs
Couple things I'd point out as a maxx v1 owner and having done all these upgrades....
Fuel line on the dog bones, 4s 6700 or better will waller out the cutouts in the drive cups.
Aluminum bell crank, aluminum servo horn and aluminum/titanium toe links. The plastic won't hold up to decent bashing. Keeps the steering tight and right, just need to keep clean.
Hinge pins back out. I captured mine with hardware I had at home but they do sell kits.
Shocks...outta the box they're not great. At least up the shock weight but I found a big difference going to a full aluminum progressive shock.
Bought one just to jib around the back yard. A ramp a table a rail and my shed roof and the maxx is sick
Dude! You are impressive! No wasted Time- No Dumb Comments. Just Good Content! Thank You
One of the main reasons that I like ordering from you guys! AMain Hobbies, goes the extra mile on showing us what is great to upgrade, how to fix stuff, what not to do and on top of all that. You guys have great customer support and really good prices. The only complaint I personally have is, it would be nice to see you guys try some of the more affordable parts and electronics. I have been trying some of the cheaper servos and tires and they are holding up just as good, Like the Hobbystar steering servo and the Duratrax tires and wheels. They have been a great way to save money with the gas prices being so high now days. I love your videos and as always, Thank you for all your help.
Love your vids, always so much info you never leave anything out like needing the wheel hex's and hex nuts for the steel driveshafts..great job, but that's the difference from people who know and love the hobby to people who don't....👍👍
Thanks Andy!
-Brett
When the quarantine hit i got back into rc after being out of it for about 10 years I bought my daughter and me a x maxx a maxx and a stampede the maxx has been the only truck that hasn't needed anything we bought the wide maxx kit and haven't even put it on it just goes and takes all our abuse and asks for nothing but another charged batterie we live in az our trucks have never seen concrete or asphalt before only mud dirt and silt the maxx is one tuff truck
Been debating getting the Kraton for my first RC, but starting to lean hard towards the Maxx due to it’s durability. Cost was the main driver before, but I keep reading comments like yours that make me want to shell out the extra dough and get it right the first time.
@@robsmith1975 both are Very good, but for 1st RC i reccomend maxx
I wish I had a Xmaxx, but I already got a Kraton 6S for my Christmas present and I did upgrades on it.
soooo, And?! go get an X-MAXX....you'll get another paycheck, have a lil fun!
I just upgraded my maxx to proline badlands mx28s and love them.
Superb upgrades🔥🔥 Even the honorable mentioned are good to know.
That ProTek servo is beautiful and an excellent reccomendation.
What did he mean when he said journey men lol
Average
Considering buying a Maxx to compliment my newly purchased XMaxx. This was quite helpful!
I have both and I drive the maxx more with all these upgrades and it’s the best car (you can find better in different categories of course) but if your looking for a little of everything from being built like a tank to functionality like flipping and bashing this thing is amazing! It may not maneuver like the revo but will definitely take more of a beating
@@mellowpunk85 The revo is still a pretty tough machine while driving much better. I'd take a revo over a maxx. Yeah, the maxx is stronger, but the revo is better in every other way. It's faster, it's bigger, it has more torque, it's more stable, it handles better, it has more power, it's more controllable in the air, it jumps much nicer, it just goes on and on.
@@gasolinediesel972 I’d say the exact opposite. I have both and the Maxx is by far the better built truck and is much more fun to drive. EREVO is poorly engineered, it’s slower and is fragile and it cannot handle jumps.
go michael! RC really is a great hobby that almost anyone can enjoy. losi mini t 2.0 brushless is SO MUCH FUN. Thinking this may be next.
I just built the totally Tubular Traxxas Max 4s Monster Truck
Made mine 6s capable everything else is stock.
Blx 185 on a plate screwed into the original esc mount 👊😀
4 s is good enough for me 👍
Rock and Roll edition body. I love it. 🦾👍
Excellent content and do enjoy the "Top 5 Best" video series. Also enjoy the Traxxas information. Very informative and thank you for the effort putting the vids together.
I've had my Maxx over one year and to this day nothing has broken! Insane!
Wow, that's amazing! Great trucks!
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies would duratrax sixpack 3.8 fit or do you recomend them
@@zackhermsen9198 They will probably rub on the body which may be fixable by trimming it with scissors but it's hard to say without trying them. Those are really big tires.
-Brett
Great video. Totally agree with all of these. I also dig the light kit. It’s just cool.
How do you use the UDR wheels if you have the CVD driveshafts? I purchased the UDR wheels for my Maxx but have the CVD driveshafts and they don’t fit. Please help me if you can. Thanx.
Sadly, that mod doesn't work if you upgrade to the metal driveshafts.
-Brett
i got a maxx about 2 years ago and within a month of running it on a football pitch the stock servo broke twice so i decided to get a metal servo for the same price as a traxxas one and its not even scratched.
I’ve got all them upgrades and it’s my favorite car by far. Great video keep up the good work
Do u have a xmaxx ! I was thinking a buddy wants to trade me his like new widenaxx and a erevo 2.0 for my xmaxx or just buy the erevo 2.0 off him for 275 and keep my xmaxx i love the size it donr get stuck anywhere its fun in snow and hillclimbs its unstoppable
@@paulcherry1520 E-revo 2.0 for 275 is a steal. The E-revo 2.0 is a great machine. Buy it.
@@gasolinediesel972 i am goin to . I have the cash but I can trade my xmaxx for it decent shape and a like new widemaxx or just buy the erevo 2.0 has steel center drive shafts proline brute body
@@paulcherry1520 An xmaxx for an E-revo 2.0 and widemaxx is a pretty fair trade, but if you buy the E-revo, then you'll have an xmaxx and an E-revo. If you trade, then you'll have a widemaxx and an E-revo. I'd rather have an xmaxx and an E-revo. Don't trade it. Buy the E-revo and he keeps the maxx.
@@gasolinediesel972 yes I love the xmaxx and have the extra 275 laying around from selling a buggy ! So ill keep the xmaxx and buy the erevo and down the road maybe buy the maxx
Great info, need one for the xmaxx 👀
Traxxas is already very good truck...and when u upgrade it...its absolute RC BASH GOD
always wanted to drive one of these trucks and see how fun it is.
There great
I have probably sent my Maxx about 50 feet in the air to flat and have not experienced any troubles with breaking fans not even a blade breaking off.
Wow very cool! We've seen the fans break mostly when people land directly on the body, or on the lid. That seems to do it.
-Brett
Please , please do a video on upgrade options for the E revo 2.0 I am thinking of buying one.
Servos, toe links, tires, and limiting straps.
@@gasolinediesel972 Thanks mate, appretiate that.
@@gourobkundu2173 No problem.
...And I'm watching this video even though I don't have a Maxx, (or any other Traxxas vehicle for that matter) and I don't like Traxxas that much. Why am I watching this then, you ask? Because Amain hobbies uploaded...
It's also good to mention that if you cover the holes on the inside of a rim and intend to do jumps you'll need to vent somewhere otherwise you'll blow the tires out so if you're going to run in wet environments either don't jump or seal the rim holes and punch holes on the outside so water can easily escape...
This is by far my favorite rig,
Just as the Maxx has a wide kit. Does the Rustler have a wide kit as well? Will the Traxxas Maxx shocks work on the Rustler? Thanks.
No, not at this time at least. The Maxx shocks are also probably too big to fit the rustler.
-Brett
🗣Thanks so much this really helped my knowlege on Rc upgrades😍👍
Question; Will the 17mm hex hubs in conjunction with the metal axles make it so you cant use the original tires do to the hub size difference?
You can use the metal drive shaft with 17mm Alu hex hub with original wheels since they are 17mm hex.
Yes u can use stock tites
No. The original wheels are made for 17mm hubs, but they have this washer than makes them a 5mm. The washer is removable and the wheel can be used with a 17mm hub.
My maxx has been on 6s for 18 packs (100c) no issues at all
just a question which one should i buy? Castle Creations Mamba Monster X 8S 33.6V ESC with 1717-1260Kv Sensored Motor Combo? which one is the best for my buck? thank you
I love my Maxx but I've burned up the 4s VXL and now the VXL 6s. I think it's my belted Badlands but my Maxx bashes so good with them so I'm converting everything to 6s.
Hmmm, maybe gear down? Sounds like overheating,maybe.
can you make some boots to keep dirt out of the shafts.... omg 3d print some with that soft filiment
Hello Brett. Excellent no BS video as usual. Thanks for pro tips !
I just tried your recommendation of the UDR wheels with the Hyrax tires on the maxx and I am having some issues. I have a widemaxx and the wheels appear to fit but I noticed that the wheel hex doesn't go in all the way into the wheel and that about 2mm of hex is exposed. That little nipple that's part of the hex is whats preventing the wheel to be fully inserted. Further, the stub axle on the widemaxx appears to be a smaller width versus the thicker stub axle on the UDR wheel so there is a little bit of play. When I fully tightened the flanged nylon nut, the wheel appears to be tight and stable but not sure how this will hold up in a bash session. It appears your setup is working great with the UDR wheels. Have you had any issues with your setup and have experienced a similar issue? Will keeping these UDR wheels on the widemaxx be reliable setup? Thanks in Advance! Keep up the good videos! You sound like an announcer.
Brett makes the best videos!
The Maxx in the beginning is 6s? Can un change the esc to 6s n leave the stock engine 2200kv?
Brett, can you please give a link to the UDR tires? Would the ones you like be good all around and bashing? Are there any down sides to using them on a MAXX? You mentioned the size loses top speed but adds torque, would I need to change gearing at all? If I upgrade to MMX with 1515 motor would I need to change gears? And finally, If I run these with MMX 1515 would it make the esc and motor run hotter or cooler? I know it’s alt of questions but you’re the man to ask. Congratulations on the the event’s you won.
The UDR wheels only fit the Maxx with the stock driveshafts; if you add the upgraded steel Maxx driveshafts they do not fit the wheels. But here are the tires: www.amainhobbies.com/proline-unlimited-desert-racer-udr-hyrax-tires-w-inserts-2-z4-pro10163-00/p-qqqrtawqlc2xqctz?v=997147
They mount up on any UDR wheel and require no gearing changes. If you change motors you may need to change your gearing, but you'll just have to try it and experiment.
-Brett
I did a 6s conversion my axel broke and the other rear axel is twisting should i be concerned on anything
I think I’ve started to notice a bit of slop in my ecopower 120t. Not sure how that happened but I’ve looked elsewhere and haven’t found anything else that it could be.
awesome video buddy!
November tips video 👍🏻
Quick question Bratt, if ini permanently tapi the hole in rim, should ini vented the tire? Thanks 🙏🏻
It is recommend to have a vent hole, so if you cover the wheel, venting the tire is a good idea.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies nice.. thanks for replying Brett 🙏🏻 👍🏻
First 😁😁😁
Watching u'r video with a coffee
Very enjoy😍
Just copped at Maxx… amazing rc vehicle.
7:45 Are the Protek fans mentioned waterproof?
So you know that part for the barong and goes akin to the wheel hubs so the parts to the wheel I snapped it so maybe you can add it??
I see the ProTek fans for sale but what’s the part number for the mounts?
Looking forward to do the number one upgrade on my maxx 👍🏻
Hi Bret,
Thanks for the video.
I have one question, how about if I change my transmitter to the others brand will it still work or perform the same as the original?
Thanks.
With a new transmitter and receiver, you will lose the Self-Righting function, and TSM; an aftermarket steering gyro can do the work of TSM if you need that back but S.O.L. on the self-righting. Everything else should function as normal.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies
Thanks Brett
Really good video!
Imsmile when i watch amaun vids. You look so youthful and remind me of the catcher kid in The Sandlot
I own a Traxxas slash 4x4 and it has a steel spur gear and a steel traxxas pinion gear. But the pinion gear is breaking every time I drive and it’s getting me mad. And the gear mesh was set right.?
Hmm..
-Both gears are the same pitch?
-Is the slipper too tight?
-Is the motor shaft, or slipper shaft bent? if they wobble = bad
-Is a shaft bearing going out? that could cause wobble
Let me know what you find.
-Brett
Why cant I just use the plastic hexs and hubs with the metal axles?
For your #3 upgrade, if going with the ProTek R/C 370TBL Waterproof Servo, what is the servo horn adapter or modified part that I need to purchase as well in order to make that servo work in the Maxx? I did not know if any servo horn will work it is just the matter or modifying the front chassis brace or if it was also modifying or buying a specific servo adapter.
It was just some generic ProTek aluminum horn that was shorter. You need to dremel the horn to make it fit like mentioned in the video. There is also the Hot Racing aluminum link and horn: www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-aluminum-fixed-steering-link-w-25t-servo-arm-hramxx48sh25/p1164523
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Brett thanks I do appreciate it. So other than modifying the chasis brace you also had to dremel the horn. I thought that is what I heard but could not see the work done in the video only on the chassis brace. With the Hot Racing aluminum link and horn would you need to modify that with a dremel as well? Keep up the great videos I am loving them and getting me back into RC after 14 years away.
@@DonnieKluck Happy to hear you're getting back in RC Donnie! Very cool. Your Maxx is a great truck to get back in it. If you use the Hot Racing setup, I do not think any modification is required, which is really nice. That Hot Racing setup is the only one I know of for the Maxx too. For our custom setup, the top brace and horn required some dremel work, but it didn't take long. I think I still have our horn we used, I could send it to you? Servo not included ;)
-Brett
@@DonnieKluck I found it. Email me if you want it and i'll send it out, Brettb@amain.com
@@AMain_Hobbies Dang no servo included, I guess beggers cant be choosers. I would totally take the old servo horn if you dont mind that would be awesome. As I bought the servo already just to have on hand for when I need to replace it or whenever I figured out how to connect it with the correct servo horn. So yes would totally take it fine sir. Thanks yeah I am enjoying the Maxx a lot but now I am like do I want an X-Maxx or Kraton 8s or go more like E-Revo or Kraton 6s. Not sure at all but man oh man the Maxx is fun and I forgot what I was missing.
Would there be a downside to leaving the tire holes covered always?
Slightly reduced performance from your tire insert. The foam works best when they can breath but they'll still function sealed up. I'd recommend to rest your car elevated on a car stand or something similar when you're not using it. This will help prevent flat spots on the tires and foam inserts, and help them last longer.
-Brett
Very informative! Thanks for making this!
I want to use the PTOTEK 370 servo which servo horn should I use?
This ---> www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-traxxas-maxx-aluminum-fixed-steering-link-w-25t-servo-arm-blue-hramxx48sa25/p1424844
-Brett
Do you think the plastic drive shafts in the wide maxx kit can handle the 3.8” proline or erevo 2.0 wheels and tires?
No. They will snap in half.
Sure, but larger, heavier tires will accelerate the wear experienced by the driveshafts.
-Brett
No
The new widemaxx v2 has longer plastic shafts included to keep the same engagement as stock
When are you going to release another b74.1 build video? I am really liking that series because I have a b74.1d myself
No, probably not. The last video about lightening the car and finding more speed was a good place to end it. Did you see that video: ruclips.net/video/jgKKhMlBM1Y/видео.html
After that video, our B74.1 is dialed! I'm not sure what else to do other than drive and enjoy it.
-Brett
Hi so u suggest me to go 6s or not!?
I'm getting my boyfriend the Maxx for Christmas (he has no idea!) and this is what I've put on the list of other items to get with it right away. Feedback would be great if I missed anything or should change anything:
17mm hubs and nuts
Wide kit
2 - 4S batteries and charger
Link Module
Proline Trencher 3.8 tires
Steel driveshaft
Diff oil 50
Shock oil wt's 50/60/80
Have I missed anything? I want him to be a happy camper on Christmas day!
Wow, impressive list that covers about everything! Just tell him to keep in mind the larger 3.8 tires act like gearing up the vehicle, so he may need to gear down to keep the electronics from overheating. But, it depends on how hot/cold your environment is, and where he drives (mud or sand are much harder on the vehicle than pavement or smooth dirt). Hope you have an r/c too!
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies how do we change gear settings? Anything else to add?
I'm going to save up for the X Maxx for myself. Then when we hit the park, I will be cooler haha! But that is a year away.
Thanks for the great videos!
Arrma Backflip and minowhatchamacallit LP tires should be a really good upgrade
The traxxas max is a must have very fun truck
If the ESC goes bad (after 35 days) is it worth doing the ESC upgrade to 6s? Curious what you recommend.
If the ESC dies after 35 days we recommend you contact Traxxas for a warranty replacement. Theoretically, you could upgrade the ESC to something 6S but just use the vehicle on 4S instead, with that option to use a 6S for special occasions. But we don't recommend a 6S Maxx for normal use; it's near undriveable.
-Brett
Do this but for the Kraton EXB 6s
Thinking about doing a 6s conversion on my Maxx since my esc went out. I wanna keep running 4S but am thinking about going to the VXL6S as an upgrade. If I put this battery strap in is there any reason why I shouldn’t stack batteries? Let say if I want to stack a pair of 3s’ in series?
You need to change the wiring from the ESC for in series connection.
@@testrak it looks like the vxl-6s is already wired for series. I thought that’s how traxxas gets 6s since they don’t make a 6s battery
@@newjonwayne The vxl 6s is a drop in mod for the maxx, all you need are new battery straps. The esc comes with 2 traxxas connectors. I don't recommend doing this mod though. The maxx can't really handle 6s. It's just too much power for the truck.
@@testrak Nope. Vxl6s comes with a series connection.
If you're going to stack batteries, you'll want another battery strap going perpendicular to the first, so one to capture long ways, and one to capture width. Otherwise you're unprotected on that axis and the battery has the potential to fling out. I would not recommend two batteries, or converting your truck to 6S, as we mentioned in your last comment.
-Brett
Does it weigh the truck down when you get all metal parts
It adds a little weight but no, the truck handles it no problem. If you were to add pounds of weight it might be an issue but aluminum is pretty lightweight, only slightly heavier than the equivalent plastic part.
-Brett
The max is a little beast
Steel cvd s and 17 mm made my Maxx a beast
uhhhh question do you guys ship on the Phillippines?
Yes, but some items cannot be shipped, like nitro fuel.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yes thank you Brett
Hi guys, im in trouble, i want a basher RC car and i cant decide beyween traxxas Maxx 4s and arrma kraton 6s...someone can suggest me?
Hey again Bobbie just wanna say this was another great video and wondering if you can ship the arrma granite to Australia because I really want it but can’t find it in australia
Howdy Mate! We do ship to Australia although not all items can ship international, usually because it's either deemed hazardous for international travel or maybe because of a manufacturer restriction. For Arrma, I believe it falls under the latter but maybe give it a try.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks bro what about traxxas items ( traxxas maxx)
@@AMain_Hobbies and sorry I think it auto corrected to Bobbie I meant Brett
@@I_nutted_in_ur_mum That's ok on the name. For Traxxas items though, I believe we are only allowed to sell within North America per their rules. I've very sorry about that. You may want to take a look at eBay if possible, but other than, that you'll need to source a local Traxxas dealer.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies ok it’s just a amain hobbies is the cheapest online Rc hobby shop and on eBay and Australian websites it’s so expensive
Nice Info
Hi just wanna ask do you know what would be the best tires that I can use on my mojave
Hmm, I don't know of any. That uses a larger than standard short course tire but I'm unfamiliar with what else will fit. You may want to do some google searching to see what others have tried.
-Brett
Thank you for responding
Good vidéo brooooo
Nice video guys. Can you please do a video on the double e d110 it's a 1\8th crawler
When you say "gear down" what would you recommend? What is stock?
The stock gearing is 50T/24T, so a 23T pinion or maybe a 22T would be needed to properly gear down to a safe zone for the electronics.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies so you only have to change up the pinion?.. 50T/22T? You wouldn’t have to change up the other gear?
@@anotherstar8125 Changing the larger spur gear makes big adjustments, changing the pinion gear makes fine adjustments, which is all we need in this case. For larger tires, usually going down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion is all that's needed, but you need to do a little trial and error to see what is right for you, the terrain you drive in, and your local climate.
-Brett
@@anotherstar8125 Keep in mind, if you live somewhere cold, you might not have to gear down at all. If you live somewhere really hot, you might need to gear down more than 2 teeth. It just depends on how hot your motor gets when driving it, and adjust from there. Hope that helps.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you for taking the time to really explain this for me. I'm sure many others will find this helpful, especially the point you make about the climate. I live in SoCal, near Palm Springs, so it looks like I'm going to be looking forward to playing around with dropping 2+ teeth. That being said, the winters here can get into the mid/upper 30F, would that mean I would have to gear back up then or would it be okay to keep the lower gearing?
How do you attach the fans, to the original cases?
You'll need some screws and nuts because it doesn't perfectly clip-in like the old fan. We show how in this video at about 5:25: ruclips.net/video/_wegSAKX-3A/видео.html
-Brett
Hey folks. Which protek fans did you go with? Ptk 2111 or the ptk 2112?
I believe we used the black version: PTK-2111 www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-30x30x10mm-aluminum-high-speed-hv-cooling-fan-silver-black-ptk-2111/p995313
-Brett
does anyone have some tips to stop the "ratteling" sounds from the chassis when jumping? i think its from the chassis hitting the shock towers....
It's body flex. Your hearing the edges of the body hit the chassis as it flexes. I haven't seen any good solutions, most people that try to solve this issue end up putting something on the edges of the body or try to tighten the body fit somehow but that isn't necessarily a good idea. The body needs to move to flex, if it doesn't flex it will crack instead.
Cut the body a little especially where the body hits the bumpers. Alot of people think they are hearing chassis slap but it's the body hitting the bumpers an the side guards the body sits in
@@johnnycash7803 gonna try that... thanks!!
@@lvhle04 👍
Awesome video and info
Have a good one my friend and stay safe
👍🥶👍
Hughly recommended driveshafts I broke them on the 3 day
Traxxas never has durable driveshafts lol
Need a up grade video for the xmaxx
Can you unbox the tenacity bd pro
I’m just curious but out of all of the recommendations you guys gave, why don’t you recommend just taping up the holes on the insides of the wheels up full-time and just poking some holes on the top of the tires so that you don’t have to put tape on and tape off when especially when you put tape on and have no hole in the tire, your tire doesn’t have any way for the air to vent like it should. Great video regardless, though.
And oh, about the re-gearing of the pinion gear… Is that really necessary being that, well, like the Proline Badlands; which I do have but those aren’t much taller than the factory tires so is re-gearing really necessary, or are you only recommending that if you run those tires and notice your motor is running a little warmer than usual? I like my badlands but that tread doesn’t seem to really like a lot of asphalt so unless I have a lot of dirt or sand to run on I just use my 5.75 inch regular Traxxas Talons so should I re-gear my pinion? I haven’t really paid that much attention to it but I don’t think my motor is overheating because of those tires but then again, whereas the Proline Badlands are 5.85 inches tall, the factory tires are 5 1/2 inches tall, my Traxxas talons are 5.75 inches tall which is only like a quarter of an inch or so taller than the factory tires. The only other thing I don’t like about my pro lines is the fact that the whole width of the tire is exactly the same width as the wheel is so there is absolutely no protection whatsoever around the bead of the tire and the edge of the wheels. I run my Traxxas Talons with those Traxxas geode wheels that have the option to use the optional bead protector and they work out really good
Hey Bill. We don't show poking holes in the tires because it's not a method we use. And honestly, it presents the same problem as mentioned in this video, just not as bad. If you're going to drive in wet conditions, I wouldn't recommend any wheel or tire holes. Basher tires are too expensive to risk it in my opinion, or to recommend to others.
For the re-gearing, the necessity of it will depend on the driver, the terrain they drive in, how hard they drive the vehicle, and their local climate. People who drive full-throttle in sand on a 100°F day will find it necessary to gear down. Those driving in grass when it's 65°F day will probably not. R/C is very situational.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Well yeah, I can see how adding air vent holes to the top of the tire could present not as bad of a problem with water intrusion but to me, having the hole in the tire rather on the top rather than the wheel, at least with a few hi speed runs after driving and wet conditions the centrifugal force of the tire will sling a really good amount of residual water out of the tire but I guess my only main concern was not to bash on what your guys do, I just wasn’t sure about not having any air ventilation at all with the two wheel holes taped when you’re running through wet conditions. Isn’t that bad for the tire if it causes excessive pressure to build up and probably pop your tire beads loose? I guess if I would’ve known that it’s OK to tape up those holes when you’re going to run the risk of water intrusion but still be OK with not having any ventilation in your tire at all I probably would’ve gone that route but so far having some really clean holes in my tire tread seems to work out really well.
But yeah, that makes sense about the gearing. I suppose I probably could drop down a tooth if somebody makes one being that even though those factory tires go totally suck, I pretty much just don’t even run on them anymore because I like my other ones way better.
@@billplaisance6387 Bro you're taking this way too seriously. Blocking off the holes is not harmful at all.
@@gasolinediesel972 ease up on the assumptions, I was just curious because if it’s ok to just plug those holes with no other means of ventilation from the inside of the tire then why do the wheels have air holes and why do they make tire punches for I’m assuming wheels that don’t have air holes?
@@billplaisance6387 They do that because it allows for more grip because the tires are softer.
Can you do this type of video but for the arrma big rock
Yeah we'll keep that in mind.
-Brett
Can you guys do a video like this for the x-maxx please
My maxx driveshafts are like 5 times thicker than them lil dogbones and I think it’s too much rotating mass
Just got one, nice video!
Great videos man! I feel like the MAXX are more indestractable than XMAXX probably because of that power and weight difference. Now sell me the used RCs! lol (im serious) lol
What wheels and tires are in the main picture of the video?
In the thumbnail are the stock Maxx tires. It's a clip from our first Maxx video: ruclips.net/video/MFFKsX8E1hA/видео.html
-Brett