To help the cylinder piston to go in and out easier disconnect one of the cylinder hydraulic lines and you won’t be fighting the suction of the piston seals
@@AlwaysBored123 There was vacuum behind the piston,that's why you had difficulties pulling it out. You can see moisture condensate suddenly and exiting the barrel after you pulled the rod. That mean also that seals were good on the inner side,and only outer side sels were damaged.
Good fix(s) and those rigs are handy but it takes me a year and a half to get in and out of one. I used to be 6'2" until I got geezerish and shrunk. Blessings!
I hate it when a puller becomes a launcher. 😂It happens less often now that I've found how useful air hammers can be. If you have a use for beating and rattling severly stuck parts, the Astro 498K is a screamin' deal. What was the tool he was talking about at 10:51? Edit: I just realized you were using a torque multiplier; I didn't even see it the first time. That helps reduce the risk of bending the shaft too I'd expect.
Yeah I was definitely a bit puckered there haha. I've been wanting a bigger air hammer lately I'll check that out. And yes that was a four-to-one torque multiplier. That's the only way I know of to get really stubborn cylinder rod nuts loose. An impact wrench doesn't work because the rod just absorbs the blows. Thanks for watching!
@@AlwaysBored123 I use a slugging wrench on big stuff. With the opposite end in the equipment and the slugging wrench itself resting on a 22 ton jack stand, a 10 pound sledge makes short work of them. Less than ideal for tightening, but for my shade tree stuff using a center punch on the rod and nut before removal and tightening the nut back to the exact spot is close enough.
when you go tp pull on the PTFE seals {the yellow ones that dont stretch} hook a zip tie around the seal, flip the zip tie inside out {so the teeth arent against the seal} and use that as a pull ring to slide the seal on with minimal stretching. :)
The dealer sticker above the 873 decal looks like what’s on my 873. Mine came from Sherwood bobcat of Mankato Mn. Very helpful video. Thank you.
your chain case has water in it, it gets in from above. then sinks to the bottom. change the oil that sits under your feet.
To help the cylinder piston to go in and out easier disconnect one of the cylinder hydraulic lines and you won’t be fighting the suction of the piston seals
That's a good idea. I think the wear ring on the piston was just a really tight fit in the bore here.
@@AlwaysBored123 There was vacuum behind the piston,that's why you had difficulties pulling it out.
You can see moisture condensate suddenly and exiting the barrel after you pulled the rod.
That mean also that seals were good on the inner side,and only outer side sels were damaged.
@@michaelovitch Oh yeah you're right. I didn't even put that together.
Pretty cool I've been out working on my neglected skid steer and I'm about ready to post a video break time for a while👍
Good fix(s) and those rigs are handy but it takes me a year and a half to get in and out of one. I used to be 6'2" until I got geezerish and shrunk. Blessings!
I was getting into that particular one the other day and slipped on an oily spot and nearly ate it. They can be treacherous.
@@AlwaysBored123 I'll pass but will herd one if can't get out of it. I like your old Case better than any foot controlled rig.
If you need a place to test it bring it on by.
I hate it when a puller becomes a launcher. 😂It happens less often now that I've found how useful air hammers can be. If you have a use for beating and rattling severly stuck parts, the Astro 498K is a screamin' deal. What was the tool he was talking about at 10:51? Edit: I just realized you were using a torque multiplier; I didn't even see it the first time. That helps reduce the risk of bending the shaft too I'd expect.
Yeah I was definitely a bit puckered there haha. I've been wanting a bigger air hammer lately I'll check that out. And yes that was a four-to-one torque multiplier. That's the only way I know of to get really stubborn cylinder rod nuts loose. An impact wrench doesn't work because the rod just absorbs the blows.
Thanks for watching!
@@AlwaysBored123 I use a slugging wrench on big stuff. With the opposite end in the equipment and the slugging wrench itself resting on a 22 ton jack stand, a 10 pound sledge makes short work of them. Less than ideal for tightening, but for my shade tree stuff using a center punch on the rod and nut before removal and tightening the nut back to the exact spot is close enough.
when you go tp pull on the PTFE seals {the yellow ones that dont stretch} hook a zip tie around the seal, flip the zip tie inside out {so the teeth arent against the seal} and use that as a pull ring to slide the seal on with minimal stretching. :)
Interesting thanks I'll have to try that. Those things were a bear to get on the piston.
crack the hydraulic hose fittings loose at the cylinder when pulling the rod out and you wont have suction like that. lmao.
I'll do that next time. I didn't want to leak oil everywhere.