Interesting to all of us who try to make brass models. Is there a problem with acid flux getting trapped between the inner and outer sides? Did you solder the entire length of the seam along the bottom of the car body? The soft solder appears to fill gaps well; is it 50 /Sn/50Pb? That is a handy fixture for the floor. I have not tried one with the piece being soldered slid into place. I imagine that if the fixture was full width it would be impossible to remove/ Apologies for being confined to English.; I don't know if any answers are possible. Thanks
There is no problem asking questions in English. Even if flux gets into the car body, I have never had any bad experience. The installation jig under the floor is a Katsumi product. The solder at this time was 60% tin and 40% lead. Thank you 🙂
@@chi_tetsumoCH Your taking time to answer is appreciated. Like you, I have had no problems with corrosion; at least not yet. One Utuber has had soldering joints in turnouts become brittle and break; he blames 'acid flux'. He might be right, but I wonder about the purity of the lead in the solder he uses. The Carr's Soldering Handbook (from Pheonix Precision in England) has a bit to say over lead contamination, and also has warnings about Cadmium, although we are using none. He appears to be deserting making his own point work, and so is losing a whole way of taking part in our interest area. I am currently looking into some of the copper/silver bearing non-lead solders for diesel locomotive noses, topped with 50/50 lead/tin solder to fill gaps. Will be interesting. The floor fixture was of great interest. In my models it is usually impossible to stretch a transom clear across the width of the carriage as walls running the length of the carriages obstruct. Sometimes it is possible to put the transoms in the end vestibules, but not always. Then it is necessary to arrange a foldout tab on each side to support the floor. Railway Modeller Magazine's C.J. Freezer long ago pointed out the great challenge of modelling is relief details such as fluting and window gaskets. One Japanese Utuber shows making a large scale tender with exemplary tank top beading. A simple and effective way of doing various relief details is my next challenge. Your videos are gold. Thanks. Peter
@@petert9749 I've heard that flux makes metals brittle, but I haven't tried many myself, so I don't know for sure. The same goes for tin and lead. Either way, it seems like it would be a good idea to try it for yourself. Copper/silver is interesting. I'm interested. Japanese brass model trains have long used brass angles to attach the car body and floor boards. Interior parts such as seats are also generally fixed to the car body rather than the floor boards. Thank you for liking my video.🙂
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ハンダペレット先置き🤔
なるほど、勉強になり〼🫡
時と場合で使い分けています🤭
と、かっこいいことを言ってみたい🤣
Interesting to all of us who try to make brass models. Is there a problem with acid flux getting trapped between the inner and outer sides? Did you solder the entire length of the seam along the bottom of the car body? The soft solder appears to fill gaps well; is it 50 /Sn/50Pb? That is a handy fixture for the floor. I have not tried one with the piece being soldered slid into place. I imagine that if the fixture was full width it would be impossible to remove/ Apologies for being confined to English.; I don't know if any answers are possible.
Thanks
There is no problem asking questions in English.
Even if flux gets into the car body, I have never had any bad experience.
The installation jig under the floor is a Katsumi product.
The solder at this time was 60% tin and 40% lead.
Thank you 🙂
@@chi_tetsumoCH Your taking time to answer is appreciated. Like you, I have had no problems with corrosion; at least not yet. One Utuber has had soldering joints in turnouts become brittle and break; he blames 'acid flux'. He might be right, but I wonder about the purity of the lead in the solder he uses. The Carr's Soldering Handbook (from Pheonix Precision in England) has a bit to say over lead contamination, and also has warnings about Cadmium, although we are using none. He appears to be deserting making his own point work, and so is losing a whole way of taking part in our interest area. I am currently looking into some of the copper/silver bearing non-lead solders for diesel locomotive noses, topped with 50/50 lead/tin solder to fill gaps. Will be interesting.
The floor fixture was of great interest. In my models it is usually impossible to stretch a transom clear across the width of the carriage as walls running the length of the carriages obstruct. Sometimes it is possible to put the transoms in the end vestibules, but not always. Then it is necessary to arrange a foldout tab on each side to support the floor.
Railway Modeller Magazine's C.J. Freezer long ago pointed out the great challenge of modelling is relief details such as fluting and window gaskets. One Japanese Utuber shows making a large scale tender with exemplary tank top beading. A simple and effective way of doing various relief details is my next challenge.
Your videos are gold.
Thanks.
Peter
@@petert9749 I've heard that flux makes metals brittle, but I haven't tried many myself, so I don't know for sure.
The same goes for tin and lead.
Either way, it seems like it would be a good idea to try it for yourself.
Copper/silver is interesting. I'm interested.
Japanese brass model trains have long used brass angles to attach the car body and floor boards.
Interior parts such as seats are also generally fixed to the car body rather than the floor boards.
Thank you for liking my video.🙂
こんにちは(=^ェ^=)
わたしもちょうど、京急７００形が
同じような作業してますよ〜
モーターツールのブラシは
安いの使うと、ワイヤーが飛んで
刺さりますねwww
どんなブラシがいいんですかね？🤣
私のもすぐ悪くなります。
100均のは、飛ぶので怖いですね。
少し高いけど、ホームセンターのが良いのかもで
安いモーターツールに付いてきたのは飛ばないです。