Build a 3840wh solar battery cart for under $1,200 in 30 minutes|
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- Thanks to LIPULS for an amazing 300ah battery!
A battery cart is a simple and cheap way to make a BIG back up solution. It is NOT hard to do!
0:00 the build
5:28 completed build overview
6:03 capacity test of the Lilpulls 300ah
8:27 results!
9:35 The system review
11:11 battery review. I'm impressed!
12:07 Why not an EG4 ?
Ecoflow Delta 3600wh is over $3,000
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Inverter
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MPPT
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Shunt
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Battery, terminals on the same end
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Battery, terminals on opposite ends
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connectors
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AC charger
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wire
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Other batteries i've tested
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The other advantage to separate inverters and MPPT's is that I have several of them, so if one part fails, I can swap it out with a spare and keep going.
True, i have two inverters and three charge controllers.
Great video. New diy’er may not be familiar with all the components. Closeup of the shunt how and why. I believe the thing above the battery is a fuse, again close up, why and what size. Thanks for these projects.
Thanks
The one thing everyone misses is to show how to program the solar controller the rest is plug and play but the controllers don't always come pre programmed
all you have to do is go into the charge controller and change it from SLA to LIPO battery type. Or set the charge voltage to 14.5
Great video. I agree with the limitations of the all in one boxes. I have often thought of putting one of these DiY systems in my truck. All the best from north Texas.
Thanks! Get ready it's going to be a rough summer
@@texasprepperprojects yes for sure. My first summer in Texas was 1980. Quite a change from growing up in northern Minnesota. Haha
Very nice set up ...but it's better when you use 24 v system
I do agree with this in a lot of ways. I have 1 24v system and are working on another one. I need a matched set of batteries to do so. Coming soon
This was pretty nice...and pretty cheap. I'd like to see a follow up video in 6 months or so, if you don't mind.
Did you see my follow up reply on the TDS video?
i did not! tell me about it!
@@texasprepperprojects Hmmm, for some reason it's not there.
The only other tests you can do is:
pH
Chlorine residual
Hardness
Odor
These tests are simple and do not tell your if the water is safe to drink.
If you really want more than that, check to see if your state, county or city offer free or nearly free full analysis tests. Otherwise, you're only other option is a third party laboratory.
Check out the MPP Solar 2724LV. It will accept a 30 to 50 volt input from a solar panel or solar panels in parallel. I use a 24 volt solar panel. It has a 2700 watt inverter. Use a 24 volt battery or batteries in parallel.
I have been looking at that model!
Oh man, not another 12V project. 48V is the way to go! Much smaller wires.
My next system will be 24v. The problem with a 48v system is that they require a minimum of 120v of solar input. That's at Least 4 big panels.
Nice setup
Thanks!
Love it and maybe better than the hybrid all-in-one.
Pros and cons. I'd like an all in one just to make ot cleaner but no one makes a 12v version
@@texasprepperprojectsmpp solar makes a 12 volt all in one 1000 watt.
the ebay seller is maximum solar and general goods.
they are 12v in but 230v out. I can't find a 12v in and 120v out. MP solar has a 24V in and 120v out, but not 12v in and 120v out
@@texasprepperprojects mpp solar pip 1012lv-mssolar inverter 110vac Maximum Solar and General Goods
I have built a couple of DIY systems using 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Thrle problem for me is that their "portability" is marginal at best. I use them around the farm and pulling that cart through the woods or loading it into the back of a SxS isn't practical. I bought a Bluetti product for that application. I use my DIY sytems in my barn.
Agreed on portability
So, Why didn't you show the connection of the charge controller?
I mentioned this in passing. The wires are just hanging off to the side. this is an emergency system. If I have to hook up the solar, then I'll just unscrew the bolts on the battery and connect the wires from the charge controller. I Could have done a buss bar, breaker, and all of that stuff, but I was trying to show how ultra simple, ultra low cost this could be.
This is great if sticking with 1200w inverter loads or less. Do you know what the surge capacity is on this inverter? I like your idea on switching out the mc4 connectors!
Surges to 2,000w. The biggest load I can think I would want to run is my fridge. I personally don't see the point in running a load over 1,000w for any period of time on battery/solar. If you really need a big load then buy a genny
I like it, good work. I will say however, that it's not a 300 AH system, it's closer to 250 AH after losses. You said it pulled 80 amps for 3.5 hours but it looked more like 70-72 A for a bit less time. That's still only about a 17 % conversion loss which is quite good.
I prefer a small propane generator over any battery system. However, I think it's great for a well pump or house lightening. One doesn't want to burn propane until you have to.
I also think you could keep the cost a lot lower by using LiPo. How many charge cycles do you need ? I think 300 cycles should suffice to get you out of danger. The 3000 cycles of LiFePhO is over kill in IMHO, but if you have the money then who cares.
Lastly, that 50 foot charge cable for solar might be too long. I don't know what your solar system is so it's hard to tell. You might be loosing significant volts and current on a 50 foot run of 12 gauge wire. I'd use that system you built like a large UPS personally.
The inverter is what injects the losses. If you look closely at the monitor screen vs the inverter screen you can see the difference in wattage at the inverter and wattage at the battery. If I was at a pure DC load that would go away. I am in a small neighborhood so I don't want to deal with the noise or fuel storage if a generator though I recognize they are much cheaper
Hey Scott, I just subscribed great video and awesome directions I have a question as I'm about to build your battery set up. Do I need to put a battery shut off switch and a fuse anywhere? Thank you for your time.
I mentioned this at the end. I personally find switches annoying and I just disconnect the battery wire when I'm done. I also don't use a breaker because the battery has a bms to protect it. Neither is a bad idea, I just dont.
I have similar setup but with two 200A batteries. It's not portable and it sits on two shelves, one for batteries another for electronics. I have 100A battery to be portable with separate 1500w inverter. Only one thing bothering me is the air flow of my 2000w inverter. When outlets are pointing up the air flows downwards and since hot air is rising it may impede cooling. I have to put together the rack for my two 240 w panels
Why don't you add a DC fan to keep some air moving?
@@texasprepperprojects I was thinking about it
Thanks for doing this video! What inverter would you have used if you did have a 48V set up? Curious! Thanks again, this was awesome.
Not sure. Probably an eg4
@@texasprepperprojects 🤙💪
Thanks!
Link to Anderson connectors
amzn.to/3VL7CZc
I just bought a portable solar generator and want to buy solar panels to charge it. I would like to have at least 2 charging points coming from the same solar panels. Are there are any "distribution boxes" or something of the sort that will allow me run cables from the solar panels to different rooms and allow me change which charging point is active at any given time?
Yes
@@texasprepperprojects Really? I've been searching online for any such information but I couldn't find anything like that. Please can you describe the process and any items I will need? Thanks a lot!
It's called an MC4 bridge adapter
what about the ground on the inverter????does anyome know if that ground on the inverter can be connected to the battery ground???
It's floating since the battery isn't grounded. You could try to ground it to the earth, but you'll have an imbalance between the negative battery and the ground. So, just leave it floating