Great idea! I've been making these from oak then staining close to the color of my LVP. Since I'm already making the wood frame, next time I will use less expensive pine & wrap it. Thanks.
Man that's an awesome idea, I've been installing floor and tile for over 16 years and I've never seen that, goodbye staining wood that turned out super clean looking 💪👊
Hi great video. Your channel is so underrated. I can't help but have three questions that I need your help. In the video, 1. how did you slide the slope into place and still have it go underneath the door jamb? I would assume you are pushing it from outside the bathroom and just push it in the direction heading into the bathroom. However, because it is a slope profile where one end is higher than the other, you are essentially pushing the taller end (where it meets the bathroom floor) into the shorter opening in the door jamb. 2. did you leave a quarter inch gap around the bathroom and around the cabinet? If so, would you add baseboards to cover the perimeter gap and add quarteround to the base of the cabinet? I am not sure if adding the quarter round to the cabinet will make it look nice. 3. it is in a bathroom, are we worried about water splashing onto the LVP? so do you have to caulk the LVP where it meets the bath? If so, would it make the LVP stick to the bath and prevent it from expanding and contracting? Thanks heaps, your videos are helping DIYers like us a lot. Keep up the good work.
Lots of great questions. So, in the video, you can see where I took a scrap piece from my transition and laid it against the trim. Then, I used my oscillating tool to cut the door jam at a sloped. By cutting both sides like this, I have about an inch to slide it in all the way in at an angle till it touches framing. And just clears the door stop on the other side ( By the way, I used pl 3x to glue it down) the glue made it easy to slide it back the other way until it was under both sides about 3/8 of an inch. I use 100% silicone to join the transition and flooring together. The silicone is flexable and will allow for expansion where needed. Laminate and lvp are a little different as far as expansion goes. There is usually a crushed stone in the core of lvp and wood fibers in laminate. I still leave a small gap from habit, but against tubs, I like to leave about a 1/8 inch or just under. Then used tape on the tub and flooring to make a straight line and use 100%silicone to seal it off. White works, too. I do leave a small gap around cabints and then stain 1/4 round to match. It's not too bad if you used only baseboard on your flooring cause then it looks like part of the cabinet. You can also use scribe mold on the around the cabinet so it doesn't stick out so much. Just a side note. I took a class on sealing the perimeter on laminate. I asked, "Wouldn't that stop it from expanding. The instructor said silicone is flexible and will allow the floor to breathe and expand back and forth. So I always say if it's good enough for laminate, it's got to be good for lvp. I leave more of a gap on the perimeter than anywhere else cause the house is made of wood. It will expand and settle. Hope that helps. Thanks for all the great questions. And the veiw
... I'm Is Tiling my bathroom, What's the best way to make the transition with the carpet, The opening is running at a slight angle. What's the best way to make this transition?
They make a transition for transitioning from carpet to tile. It's OK, you can find it online at home depot or lowes. but if I were installing it, I would probably install a schluter bar across the edge of the tile. Then, place a peace of tack strip about 3/16 to a 1/4 inch( depending on how thick your carpet is) Now you'll be able to kick the carpet over the tack strip and tucknit down next to the flat part Of the Schuler bar. Usually, it makes a clean, even transition
![Oscar Maydon x Fuerza Regida - Tu Boda [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ymicn0_GYc/mqdefault.jpg)
Great idea! I've been making these from oak then staining close to the color of my LVP. Since I'm already making the wood frame, next time I will use less expensive pine & wrap it. Thanks.
We've had to do that for custom steps. It's hard to match lvp with stain. This trick has come in handy more than once. Thanks for the comment Marcos
Man that's an awesome idea, I've been installing floor and tile for over 16 years and I've never seen that, goodbye staining wood that turned out super clean looking 💪👊
Ha ha. I hear ya. Much cleaner than stain. Thanks for the comment
Looks great!🍻👍🏼✌🏽
Thank you
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you
Good job
Thanks D.B. appreciate the comment
Nice job, I'm going from tile in my bathroom to pre-existing carpet, What's the best way for making this transition?
...
I commented back how to do this in your other comment
Hi great video. Your channel is so underrated. I can't help but have three questions that I need your help.
In the video,
1. how did you slide the slope into place and still have it go underneath the door jamb? I would assume you are pushing it from outside the bathroom and just push it in the direction heading into the bathroom. However, because it is a slope profile where one end is higher than the other, you are essentially pushing the taller end (where it meets the bathroom floor) into the shorter opening in the door jamb.
2. did you leave a quarter inch gap around the bathroom and around the cabinet? If so, would you add baseboards to cover the perimeter gap and add quarteround to the base of the cabinet? I am not sure if adding the quarter round to the cabinet will make it look nice.
3. it is in a bathroom, are we worried about water splashing onto the LVP? so do you have to caulk the LVP where it meets the bath? If so, would it make the LVP stick to the bath and prevent it from expanding and contracting?
Thanks heaps, your videos are helping DIYers like us a lot. Keep up the good work.
Lots of great questions. So, in the video, you can see where I took a scrap piece from my transition and laid it against the trim. Then, I used my oscillating tool to cut the door jam at a sloped. By cutting both sides like this, I have about an inch to slide it in all the way in at an angle till it touches framing. And just clears the door stop on the other side ( By the way, I used pl 3x to glue it down) the glue made it easy to slide it back the other way until it was under both sides about 3/8 of an inch. I use 100% silicone to join the transition and flooring together. The silicone is flexable and will allow for expansion where needed. Laminate and lvp are a little different as far as expansion goes. There is usually a crushed stone in the core of lvp and wood fibers in laminate. I still leave a small gap from habit, but against tubs, I like to leave about a 1/8 inch or just under. Then used tape on the tub and flooring to make a straight line and use 100%silicone to seal it off. White works, too. I do leave a small gap around cabints and then stain 1/4 round to match. It's not too bad if you used only baseboard on your flooring cause then it looks like part of the cabinet. You can also use scribe mold on the around the cabinet so it doesn't stick out so much. Just a side note. I took a class on sealing the perimeter on laminate. I asked, "Wouldn't that stop it from expanding. The instructor said silicone is flexible and will allow the floor to breathe and expand back and forth. So I always say if it's good enough for laminate, it's got to be good for lvp. I leave more of a gap on the perimeter than anywhere else cause the house is made of wood. It will expand and settle. Hope that helps. Thanks for all the great questions. And the veiw
... I'm Is Tiling my bathroom, What's the best way to make the transition with the carpet, The opening is running at a slight angle. What's the best way to make this transition?
They make a transition for transitioning from carpet to tile. It's OK, you can find it online at home depot or lowes. but if I were installing it, I would probably install a schluter bar across the edge of the tile. Then, place a peace of tack strip about 3/16 to a 1/4 inch( depending on how thick your carpet is) Now you'll be able to kick the carpet over the tack strip and tucknit down next to the flat part
Of the Schuler bar. Usually, it makes a clean, even transition