I think ive got this same fake airstriker, its given me great performance over the stock carb and ive jetted and tuned it. Its been giving me great experience cant complain
Thanks man! I hope this helps a bit! Had a 2001 once... Great bike! Have a 94 now. Actually sent it off 'surprise double' yesterday and now I have some fixing to do on it!
I also use a pwk 35 air striker that is a copy. But mine is a copy 90% like the original. China imitates it very well. The logo, and the part number are the same as the original so it's hard to tell the difference. I've bought more than 10 pcs and installed them on my customer's two stroke 125cc bike. The result is very good and it is easy to set! the price is also very cheap which is rm90 (Malaysia) which is 22.5 dollars. very worth it with its very good quality in terms of finishing and setting.
I have noticed that they either work awesome or they’re impossible to jet. I had one on a cr80 and that bike was impossible to jet until I put a real pwk on it.
I'm literally about to pull the trigger on one for my 98 KTM 200 EXC, it seems the stock carb is worn out and runs way richer than it should at stock jetting. Thought it was a bad crank seal at first, but I'm not losing any gear oil
My PWK 38 JD kit provided a #55 pilot, #175 main and blue top needle at 3rd groove to start. What are the numbers of the jets you installed? I always double check float height on new carbs. My Lectron PRO 38 arrived 2mm out of spec.
After dissecting countless and comparing to factory keihin carbs of same model and sizes. I began to wonder exactly how all the variances in one clone to another to an oem effect operation after to many carbs to count and many hours flowing each circuit in all these clones tell i bought enough i think ive seen all the internal diffs in one to another next time you purchase one you are about 1 and 7 of getting one speced the same as another. anyways after flowing each different clone (That should be all the same but are not) and comparing readings to a matching oem version what i found is its all in the jetting blocks due to the horrible install height variances in clones top and bottom (Two piece internals) emulsion tube replication of the baby pwks operation with different ID diameters from one to another as well as holes the amount of and size of so you see MAJOR differences in one clone to the next with about a 1 and 7 chance of seeing numbers similar to one before. because of this needle changes are just a preference of what rpm you want the rich spot at rather a ability to tune because every one of them flows much more unrestricted than the oem jet block meaning richer, so you can jet all you want but all you are doing is changing idle and top end crispness everything in between is pre determined by emulsion tubes with orifices that the needle simply change when they are blocked and not so when you are rich in the strokes needle changes will simply just move the rich spot around tell you find what you like because on your way to WOT all the same orifices will be open in the end and that amount of fuel is determined by how many and what size they are in the emulation tube that is non serviceable unlike the baby PWK's inside the jetting block. (I have seen some that are to small ID to accept a oem keihin needle believe it or not). So if you buy one, jet it for top end then pilot then needle to move the bad spots to somewhere you can deal with them because the actual needle changes will not reflect the same change they would offer on oem carbs as verified in flowing the main circuits with many needle changes assembled with slides at every 1/16 in. of slide travel the needles do not even close do what they are designed to do in oem carbs though you do see differences just nothing even related to the oem flow rates and in most cases not even the direction x needle should have went. Honestly I was shocked to realize all you need to do to one of these to have the performance in adjustability match that of an OEM is buy a $40 clone then buy a $50 used oem jet block (You cant buy new ones sudco never sold them) for it and for $90 you have a carb that is on target with the OEM and mirrors in adjustments.
I’m using a jd jetting kit on my 23 yz125 Keihin carb Stock settings Main 160 Pilot 75 JD is telling me to use a 50 pilot. But isn’t that extremely lean and wear off my engine since it will run hotter? JD settings Pilot 50 Main 170 Needle : red on 4 ring
My question is, does this carb use the same style main jet as a genuine PWK, or does it use the really short style ones like some other clone PWK's that I have seen?
@@PWalden762 negative sir, it uses the standard pwk jets. I could be wrong but the ones you’re describing sound like mikuni? Forgive me, I only run Keihins on my bike if I can!
So JD jetting is usually my go to for a baseline. However, I ride a lot of CR250s and YZ250s so I can’t offer a whole lot of assistance there. That being said, if you put the popular triple taper Suzuki needle in it, that might be a good option. My pilot is always a 45 across all my bikes. I’m at 2k elevation. Go with a 175 main on 3rd clip. You can tune it from there without blowing it up. These specs are good for me so keep that in mind, it might be very different than your own bike
@@jimmy_dirtbike This Rm has a TM flat slide no idle adjustment or mix screw, Ive ordered STD jets for it, but I dont think it will work that good, do you recommend ditching it & use a ebay PWK? thanks
i can hardly find genuine pwk carbs which is kind of annoying because you have to spend 150-200$ on the fake carb and another 100$ on the jet kit which makes it damn near the same price as the genuine carb…
@@2jzene862 the QA parts carb is $50 from RMATV and the jet kit is $75, however, I started running a N3CW Yamaha needle in my 94 cr250 and it’s my favorite needle ever. 3rd/2nd clip, 45 pilot and 172 main with 1.5 turns on the airscrew. I’m at 2k feet almost no humidity. Hope this helps and saves you money. If you want a real one, look for what bikes they came stock.. kx250 would be one. There’s hardly any new ones out now because Sudco closed its doors
@@jimmy_dirtbike my comment was based off of a quick google search the first few non genuine carbs are 170-200$ on ebay or other random sites. i looked at JD’s website and i don’t believe you can order that slide anymore either unfortunately. i’m at about 600ft of elevation and it gets pretty humid here in michigan durring the summer. i was over estimating the price on the kit i was just used to the more expensive ones i’ve had on past bikes (07 rmz450 & a mikuni tmx from a yz125) but the video definitely helped & was super informative. looking for a replacement on my 97 cr250 and seems like a non genuine is the most reasonable route to go.
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I think ive got this same fake airstriker, its given me great performance over the stock carb and ive jetted and tuned it. Its been giving me great experience cant complain
@@str8xrippin I’m glad to hear it man! They’re great carbs!
I had to buy branded after complete rebuild of my 01 cr250. Great video , Suttle differences but u can confirm real from fake ....
Thanks man! I hope this helps a bit! Had a 2001 once... Great bike! Have a 94 now. Actually sent it off 'surprise double' yesterday and now I have some fixing to do on it!
I also use a pwk 35 air striker that is a copy. But mine is a copy 90% like the original. China imitates it very well. The logo, and the part number are the same as the original so it's hard to tell the difference. I've bought more than 10 pcs and installed them on my customer's two stroke 125cc bike. The result is very good and it is easy to set! the price is also very cheap which is rm90 (Malaysia) which is 22.5 dollars. very worth it with its very good quality in terms of finishing and setting.
I have been using the fake PWK carb on my KTM exc 200 for 120 hrs with no problems works better than the original.
I have noticed that they either work awesome or they’re impossible to jet. I had one on a cr80 and that bike was impossible to jet until I put a real pwk on it.
I'm literally about to pull the trigger on one for my 98 KTM 200 EXC, it seems the stock carb is worn out and runs way richer than it should at stock jetting. Thought it was a bad crank seal at first, but I'm not losing any gear oil
My PWK 38 JD kit provided a #55 pilot, #175 main and blue top needle at 3rd groove to start. What are the numbers of the jets you installed?
I always double check float height on new carbs. My Lectron PRO 38 arrived 2mm out of spec.
for my 1991 CR500, I have a 45 pilot, 175 main and I believe i am on clip 3. Hope this helps!
Thank you. They work fine for me also
Great Video Brother, definitely an option. Thanks for helping us skeptics👍
@@flyinghorsepolowski4205 thank you for watching my stuff! I really appreciate it!
After dissecting countless and comparing to factory keihin carbs of same model and sizes. I began to wonder exactly how all the variances in one clone to another to an oem effect operation after to many carbs to count and many hours flowing each circuit in all these clones tell i bought enough i think ive seen all the internal diffs in one to another next time you purchase one you are about 1 and 7 of getting one speced the same as another. anyways after flowing each different clone (That should be all the same but are not) and comparing readings to a matching oem version what i found is its all in the jetting blocks due to the horrible install height variances in clones top and bottom (Two piece internals) emulsion tube replication of the baby pwks operation with different ID diameters from one to another as well as holes the amount of and size of so you see MAJOR differences in one clone to the next with about a 1 and 7 chance of seeing numbers similar to one before. because of this needle changes are just a preference of what rpm you want the rich spot at rather a ability to tune because every one of them flows much more unrestricted than the oem jet block meaning richer, so you can jet all you want but all you are doing is changing idle and top end crispness everything in between is pre determined by emulsion tubes with orifices that the needle simply change when they are blocked and not so when you are rich in the strokes needle changes will simply just move the rich spot around tell you find what you like because on your way to WOT all the same orifices will be open in the end and that amount of fuel is determined by how many and what size they are in the emulation tube that is non serviceable unlike the baby PWK's inside the jetting block. (I have seen some that are to small ID to accept a oem keihin needle believe it or not). So if you buy one, jet it for top end then pilot then needle to move the bad spots to somewhere you can deal with them because the actual needle changes will not reflect the same change they would offer on oem carbs as verified in flowing the main circuits with many needle changes assembled with slides at every 1/16 in. of slide travel the needles do not even close do what they are designed to do in oem carbs though you do see differences just nothing even related to the oem flow rates and in most cases not even the direction x needle should have went. Honestly I was shocked to realize all you need to do to one of these to have the performance in adjustability match that of an OEM is buy a $40 clone then buy a $50 used oem jet block (You cant buy new ones sudco never sold them) for it and for $90 you have a carb that is on target with the OEM and mirrors in adjustments.
You did a great job using the glass beads.
@@Dave97Hokie thanks man!
I’m using a jd jetting kit on my 23 yz125
Keihin carb
Stock settings
Main 160
Pilot 75
JD is telling me to use a 50 pilot. But isn’t that extremely lean and wear off my engine since it will run hotter?
JD settings
Pilot 50
Main 170
Needle : red on 4 ring
My question is, does this carb use the same style main jet as a genuine PWK, or does it use the really short style ones like some other clone PWK's that I have seen?
@@PWalden762 negative sir, it uses the standard pwk jets. I could be wrong but the ones you’re describing sound like mikuni? Forgive me, I only run Keihins on my bike if I can!
Anyone have jet info for one of these fitted to a 83 RM250? & where can I get a kit from? thanks
So JD jetting is usually my go to for a baseline. However, I ride a lot of CR250s and YZ250s so I can’t offer a whole lot of assistance there. That being said, if you put the popular triple taper Suzuki needle in it, that might be a good option. My pilot is always a 45 across all my bikes. I’m at 2k elevation. Go with a 175 main on 3rd clip. You can tune it from there without blowing it up. These specs are good for me so keep that in mind, it might be very different than your own bike
@@jimmy_dirtbike Thats great thank you! I'll try that...
@@jimmy_dirtbike This Rm has a TM flat slide no idle adjustment or mix screw, Ive ordered STD jets for it, but I dont think it will work that good, do you recommend ditching it & use a ebay PWK? thanks
@@jimmy_dirtbike So you replace the main, idle jets, do you replace the needle jet too?
@@aaaaaaaaaaaaaa4151the JD jet kit will include a needle as well plus jetting chart for a baseline
Hi
@@حسينقرهمحمد-ي5ب howdy
i can hardly find genuine pwk carbs which is kind of annoying because you have to spend 150-200$ on the fake carb and another 100$ on the jet kit which makes it damn near the same price as the genuine carb…
@@2jzene862 the QA parts carb is $50 from RMATV and the jet kit is $75, however, I started running a N3CW Yamaha needle in my 94 cr250 and it’s my favorite needle ever. 3rd/2nd clip, 45 pilot and 172 main with 1.5 turns on the airscrew. I’m at 2k feet almost no humidity. Hope this helps and saves you money.
If you want a real one, look for what bikes they came stock.. kx250 would be one. There’s hardly any new ones out now because Sudco closed its doors
@@jimmy_dirtbike my comment was based off of a quick google search the first few non genuine carbs are 170-200$ on ebay or other random sites. i looked at JD’s website and i don’t believe you can order that slide anymore either unfortunately. i’m at about 600ft of elevation and it gets pretty humid here in michigan durring the summer. i was over estimating the price on the kit i was just used to the more expensive ones i’ve had on past bikes (07 rmz450 & a mikuni tmx from a yz125) but the video definitely helped & was super informative. looking for a replacement on my 97 cr250 and seems like a non genuine is the most reasonable route to go.