Hey brother the way you showed how to adjusted the valves is spot on. I'm a retired machinist and I've worked on small engines all my life and the other guys like you said totally over complicate the process. I just wanted to say I really like the way you did your video and you didn't over complicate anything. Thanks again for sharing you the man!!
How do you over complicate a valve adjustment? It's really as simple as it is in the video. I know some people could make boiling water seem as complex as designing the space shuttle. But valves?
@josephherron7671 maybe you should watch some other people's videos on adjusting valves before you comment on the over complicating aspects in my comment.
I can’t Thank you enough for this simple lesson in valve adjustment. I’ve worked on small engines before although I never quite understood the whole valve adjustment procedure. I feel super confident in my ability to adjust them now. Not so much before. Lol! Besides you saved me from having to contact the ex to set the valves. 😮🥴 That’s a bad situation and a topic that I’ll save for a therapist. 😂😂
So kind of your for letting me know. I love to hear when one of my vids helps someone out. I'm proud of you for taking on your own repairs.. wish my ex's did that lol.. thanks so much for subscribing and hitting the thumbs up.. it really helps.. and if you need help u can't find in one of my vids feel free to message me and ask.. I do my best to walk subscribers through any problems they encounter.. see you soon
That’s one thing my Daddy always said growing up is that he never wanted us to have to depend on a man. He wanted us to be able to stand on our own 2 feet, so he made me learn to do everything. I had to work on my own cars, small engines, electronics, etc. I’m Thankful for it now, when I was younger though not so much. 😂 Well I sure appreciate you and I know who to call on next time I have a question. 💛
@@angieharrison3814 women like you are diamonds in the rough.. wish I came across someone who's dad taught them to take care of themselves.. see you soon
Thank you so much and you were 100% right on how to adjusting the rockers, you way was perfect. Started right away and purring like a cat. Thanks again much appreciated.
Small engine mechanic here, loving the keep it stupid simple (keep it simple stupid) vibe. Honestly, I'm about to try that in the shop today. I've always hated the tdc method, but it was the one i learned. Spot on, man loved the video!
I've done this Dozens of times before, found this video looking for specs on a 17.5 briggs - Gotta say well done man somehow you had me watching you doing it the entire time without scrolling away. You are a good teacher!
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing and taking the time to say something nice.. my vids have gotten much better ( I hope) over the years and it is always nice to here from people that found enjoyment or knowledge from a video I have done
It’s videos like this that make RUclips a modern day Alexandria’s Library. Thank you for the very clear video on adjusting valves, I learned a lot. Turns out my whole post that holds the exhaust rocker is loose and causing a 3/8” gap! Hoping to just be able to tighten the whole thing down, set the gap, and have it start and run like new. Thanks for teaching this and helping me save money.
@INeedAuserName1029 thank you for your kind words.. yes as long as the post is not stripped out and u can tighten it you should b good to go.. they occasionally back out with vibration.. tighten it just til it stops moving to test.. then pull it out and put some Lock-tite on the thread.. then tighten and it will stop it from happening again
Hey brother. I would like to thank you for this video. You saved me a lot of money. Even the so-called mechanic couldn't fix it. I followed your directions and I was able to fix my mower. Thanks again.
Man thank you for the detailed easy to understand video. I think you might've just helped me fix my mower. Gonna give this a shot when i get a set of those gauges and some free time!
Hey thanks for the kind words.. please do me a favor and subscribe while your here it really helps.. Adjusting the valves is very important and pretty easy.. you can grab feelers guage set at any auto parts store for under $10 , I know you can do it I have faith in you .. remember to let the gasket sealer set up for 24 hours before running the machine so you don't blow it out of the cover and get a leak.. good luck and let me know how it turns out .. I am always here if you have questions
Excellent info from this video. I made the mistake of adjusting at top dead center only to continue to have occasional misfire ---watched your video, went back in and did it the way you showed and it runs like a new one. Thank you for the help!
Man old school explanations are whAt drives knowledge into your head. These young ones they're hard headed instead of taking advice from a specialist they want to lio er some sort of technique they can name but we both know it don't work that way. Not from jumpstreeit don't anyway. I like your style we are the same. You just taught me about Briggs valves and I'm 57 years old.
I had an old Troy Bilt mower with a Briggs engine that a friend gave to me. He told me the engine was locked up, so I took it for parts. When I finally got around to messing with it, I found that the valves were so far out of adjustment that it was building too much compression to even turn over. I had never seen that before. I did an adjustment and it fired right up. Unfortunately, it had been in my back yard for a couple of years and I had already stolen some parts off of it. I am still putting it back together, lol.
I've been working on an 18 yr old Bolens, had valve trouble (would get 'stuck' turning over) then sat for 5 years. Adjusted valves, would only start w/some carb cleaner & run for a couple seconds. Cleaned the carb, started but was backfiring. You nailed it! I guess didn't adjust the exhaust valve, it was big time loose. After adjusting, it sounded like a new engine! Have an unrelated (I think) issue w/idle fluctuating, but that's for another discussion. Thanks man!
Glad my video helped.. always happy to hear it.. if it's surging when running uts usually a clogged jet in the carb.. I often have to clean a carb two times or more to get it right.. look for a specific vid on your carb so u don't miss anything. I usually just buy new carb for $20 these days
Noted re: the carb. It was bad, this gel-like substance in the bowl. I'll clean it again, but like you said I can't believe how cheap new carbs are! Found mine for $20. Also, in the past I was using the Top Dead Center method for positioning the valves. Didn't have to! Used your method and from now on that's the way to go.
Awesome because this is exactly what's happening with mine. I put a new carb on it ran much better but it had that backfiring so my next step is adjusting the valves like you did! Thank you so much for this video I'm not a mechanic but I watch your video and that's my next step. I'll let you know if she Smooths out after that
Thanks for your kind words and for subscribing.. it really helps. Please let me know if it smooths out for you. I'm always interested.. and remember to change your spark plugs they can contribute to the problem although they don't normally go bad these days it is possible in these cases
I had a Murry 40 inch cut with a Briggs 12.5 horsepower engine, it was very low on power ( a 2004, this was 2018 ) I readjusted the valves, made a very big difference, 30 minutes later it was blowing oil out all over. I ook the engine apart, the top piston ring broke in 3 places. After considering my options, I put a Kohler 25 horsepower V twin on runs great does a very good job. Sir I enjoy your videos, you do very good work 😊
I appreciate your kind words , your subscribing to my channel and u taking the time to share. Sounds like you made the right decision.. it's nice to find others that actually take the time to repair machines yourself.. stay handy my friend
@@bdaddy503 No, the valves didn't hit anything. It was because it increased the compression and I think the extra pressure broke the top compression ring.
@@bdaddy503 That engine it did. They were way off like over 50 thousands of an inch too loose. The clearance should be around .0004 to .0006. So the valves were just barely opening. It was so low on power it would hardly pull its self. After I adjusted the valves it was running strong. (For a 12.5 horsepower engine)
Thanks for saying so. It makes everything I do worth doing to hear that I helped someone. Thanks for joining me here hope you have a great day. See you soon
This is a great video on how to adjust your valves. I tried to follow the put your screwdriver in the spark plug hole and my mower sounded like an airplane. Follow these instructions and you will be fine. Tractor runs like new now.
Thanks for a great instructional video. You uncomplicate the valve adjustment procedure. And yes l too have forgotten to put the spark plug in. Terry. Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks so much for your kind words ... it means a lot to me that I help people.. thanks for subscribing too it helps me grow and help others.. you rock
The intake rod is centered in its valve guide. Since the only contact the rod has is on both ends, and only one end is hot AND intake air is cool is why that rod can be made of aluminum. The exaust rod is steel simply due to the extreme heat of exhaust gases.
The inlet valve is cooled by the air/fuel mixture. The exhaust valve runs hotter because of the hot exhaust gases. The inlet valve is in line with the pipe from the carb.
Thank You! Ver informative work on my own stuff even worked on other peoples mowers, but hate doing the valve adjustment because looking for that op dead center is always a pain. Need to adjust my Briggs twin cylinder 24 hp very soon cause it’s sputtering a bit. I will use our method. Thanks again Raul 👍
Thanks for watching and subscribing plus taking the time to leave a comment it really helps me reach more people. I know my method is easier for some people including myself and it's very effective I hope it makes your life easier
Thanks for taking the time to comment and subscribe .. it helps me grow .. I really hope my video helps. If it turns out to be a different issue just leave me a comment on any vid or email me and I'll help u figure out what u need
@@MunkyWrench Well, reason I watched is because I saw blue smoke (not plumes) after finishing lawn, 100 degrees outside. I thought I pushed mower too hard.. I was hoping to clean some parts (carb,muffler,air filter) instead of fixing head gasket or something drastic like that..
I tried the other way of adjusting the lifters and the engine was way out of whack. Would not even turn. I tried your way and tried to start it and it barely spun and fired up and ran perfectly. Thanks!!
Thanks for letting me know. It always means so much to me to know I was able to help someone.. proud of u for fixing it yourself and not giving up.. thanks for watching and subscribing
If you simply turn the engine until one two let arm is tight and the other is loose, how do you know it’s at it loosest point? I thought finding TDC on compression stroke then going 1/4” further down with the piston puts the valves in correct position for adjustment
on an expensive large engine with perfect tolerance thats true but lawnmowers and small engines don't have such tight torlerances . I have never had an issue doing it this way in 40 years since I was a kid
I was having the same issues with my John Deere 18.5 Z225. I changed the carburetor, air filter, oil filter, gas filter , change oil, took off the gas tank make sure that was no debris in the tank. I changed spark plug. Put a tester from the plug the magneto, spark was good. But I still can’t get the dam thing to start or run. So now I will try to adjust my valves. If you can help with my problem please let me know. Thank you great video. I love how you took your time.
Did u check compression.. u only need 3 things to run. Fuel. Spark and compression.. try sorting a bit of carb cleaner into the carb and starting it. It will only run for a few seconds but it will narrow down your issues to purely fuel.. if u have spark and it still does not start with carb spray.. check compression if u can.. if not then remove the valve cover and check for a stuck valve or missing or bent push rod.. if it does run for few seconds.. pull the fuel line to the carb and turn key.. make sure fuel is getting to the carb. Let me know if u need more advice
What happens if I do exactly what you did and it's still doing the same as you described? Could it be a faulty carb I ordered? There's no adjustments on that other than the idle screw. Thanks for assistance!
It could be a handful of things.. on Chinese Amazon carbs its hit or miss but I've gotten bad ones out the box.. also could be bad spark plug.. buy brand name spark plugs never use cheap Chinese ones that come with kits.. you have a fuel solenoid cutoff on the bottom of the carb if it is not working correctly it can cause a backfire when you shut the machine off.. is it idling bad? up and down? cause that's a carb issue.. it could also be a magneto that's starting to go bad.. you would have to let it warm up then check with a multi meter .. if the magneto is beginning to fail the spark will become weak and intermittent you could also have bad fuel lines.. are they hard.. if you squeeze them do they spring right back to shape.. they could be collapsing or partially clogged.. if there is a fuel pump it could be starting to fail.. if you can be more specific I can narrow it down for you.. if you can email a short video of it running so I can hear it I may be able to narrow it down.. I would buy a new brand name spark plug.. check the gap and try it.. if you adjusted the valves its not that.. I can walk you through the other stuff and I have videos on most of those things too
happy to hear from all sides so glad you commented. in my 25 plus years of working on mowers I have found that valves still work with over 15 thou out of range and with one being pulled the other is completely free so it works just fine.. always has. clearly I don't work as a certified mech but this video alone has helped thousands of people adjust valves successfully . thousands have left comments thanking me after the fact so I will stick with my way
@@MunkyWrench it was a faulty Amazon carb. Ordered a new one that had the adjustment screw. However, I didn't have to mess with it. Bolted on and started right up with no issues. I did adjust the valves prior to the specs you gave. Motor runs like a champ. Thank you!
@@timtaylor4476 Thanks for letting me know it turned out ok I am proud of you for getting it done. I think I got a bad Amazon carb too so im ordering a new one tomorrow and will see how it goes..
Wow I was given this exact mower from a neighbor. Replaced coil and starter solenoid both were bad and she fired right up. But is ruff and back firing. Niki carb not much adjustment I think you just gave me the answer ! Now what did you do about the key not shutting off engine. Mine does the same thing. Fantastic vid man I subscribed.
U have to check the wire connections between the key and the magneto.. all it does is create a ground connection to remove the spark.. I ran every line for continuity and found the spade connection had broken.. I replaced and plugged it back in.. I've had cases where the key switch had gotten corroded on other machines causing the same problem.. glad I was able to give u some new ideas.. thanks for watching and subscribing
@@MunkyWrench sure enough the valve set was way out. Much improved yet still ran a bit ruff with some back pressure through carb. Had an old Nikki on the shelf cleaned up changed it out and bam smooth idle and full throttle. Bucks just a little when blades are engaged . Think recheck valves in the morning but still happy with results. I never adjusted valves in my life but now have confidence to do so. I’ll chase key issue down tomorrow as well thanks again.
Def.. most people never adjust them.. they should be checked every year.. if battery is good and fully charged .. valves are next step.. good luck and thanks for watching
@@MunkyWrench valves were out of spec (loose). And the head gasket was definitely rough. Oh and both push rods were bent 😂. I don’t know how it was running but she’s getting rebuilt to live again.
Greetings from Canada. Really good video. I’ve watched A LOT of small engine vids and this is one of the better ones so far. Curious though, when u talked about finding top dead center with a screwdriver and did it instead by getting one valve lose and one tight does TDC matter the way you do it? Does being TDC on the compression stroke matter the way you do it? Thanks for such a good video!!!
Thanks so much for watching.. in a nutshell on larger equipment TDC is more vital but in small engines it is not needed.. basically by doing it with one valve open and one closed you are just taking the pressure of the spring off and ,,making it loose to set your clearance .. and since the clearance can range by a few thousands of an inch its just important that the pressure is taken off when setting the valves.. finding TDC is also subjective meaning when you use a screwdriver against the piston you work it up and down to find it.. and what you perceive as TDC can be slightly different that what another person thinks it is and all it does it relieve the pressure anyway.. hope this helped.. feel free to comment or ask questions any time
There's actually little to zero adjustment on those carbs.. I'm happy to walk u through any steps you need to figure this out. A carb for a motor that size is around $20 and takes only a few mins to change out .. so that's usually what I do. Make sure the spring is on the linkage to the carb. That will cause issues if missing or stretched out.. you can check valve clearance if it's not running right. Tell me what is wrong and I'll try to help. U can message here or my email is on the ABOUT ME section of my main page
You can look up your specific machine for manufacturers specs on a particular one but I have found that tolerances vary quite a bit per manufacturer on how far out of spec is ok before worrying , so a safe bet on most small engines is 4 to 6 thou .. i usually do standard 5 thou across the board.. and have never had a problem.. i work on hundreds of machines a month so that's just my experience.. hope this helps
Outstanding video my push mower backfires when we release the kill lever. What would you check 1st when that's going on? The carb is clean as a whistle I ran it through a hot ultrasonic machine. I thought it was a gap of 30, but Google says it's 20 gaps so I set it there. The spark plug had very little carbon just the best-looking spark plug I have ever seen.
Could be a bunch of things. The carb could be running a lil rich, the spark plug could be starting to go bad, u could have a partially sheared flywheel key that makes the timing slightly off. There are several other things to check but keep in mind while annoying it won't actually hurt the machine to backfire. Let me know if u figure out what the cause is I'm always interested
I have confidence in my carb but checking the spark it look weak to me and spark plug wire has a couple of deep wear marks on it so I guess I'll start by Replacing it if still BF then I'll adjust it like it don't BF till I release the cutoff lever only then when it sound like a rifle and scope???
@@JasonSmith-qx3zh yeah usually too much fuel at the end with low rpm causes final backfire. Check timing key if it's partially off you wouldn't tell at regular high rpm.. only at low to none. Change plig could be as simple as that
I imagine you mean if its cold not old.. no worries.. no the motor temp does not matter with valve clearance .. hot or cold is all the same. Thanks for watching and subscribing.. it really helps me grow
Now, if the exhaust was at .005 and the intake was at .006 would it cause it to backfire out the carb and sorta lope? Mine will not idle, I have to have full choke and run it at full throttle for it to keep running
In my experience.. no I've done vids where the valve lash was over 20 or dead tight and still ran.. the problem with dead tight is it can throw a rod.. if your backfiring out the carb and it will only stay running at full choke I would first check carb.. if it only runs on choke you have a clogged jet most likely the low end. The backfire issue is usually cause by it being out of timing so if u pop the flywheel off you can look at the flywheel key it may be damaged or partially sheared. At 5 and 6.. your valves are just fine.. there's room for error in mowers.. let me know what u find and I'll try to help u find the issue
I have the same mower 17.5 select. M It starts up and back fires but it will drive but now when I engage the blades it will stall. Could the backfire cause that also
@@MunkyWrench I bought the mower last year so I just looked under the seat and don't see the switch there, I suspect it's bypassed. I see the whole but nothing is there
@tj trace the wires and make sure it's bypasses.. if someone just ripped it off and didn't bypass u still have same problem.. also .. and forgive me for not remembering.. if it's an electric pto to engage blades and battery is half dead it will kill motor
Welp, got my feeler gauge set and adjusted valves. Replaced spark, fuel filter, air filter, disassembled carb and cleaned it out. It ended up being my seat safety switch. I'm guessing it was closing the circuit as I was driving and all the little micro opening/closing makes the ignition sloppy and burns the fuel poorly causing a backfire.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and subscriber while your here it really helps. it is always best to look up the manufacturers specs on any particular machine for best results .. Having said that I know its often hard to find that stuff online so I will say this. when it comes to these motors a pretty good rule of thumb across most of them is anywhere from 4 to 6 thou.. technically they are supposed to be a bit different between intake and exhaust however in my many years of work have found them to be so far out of adjustment from lack of maint that they are both at 15 thou or more. the main thing is that they are not so tight that there's no space.. nor too loose that the valves don't open or the push rod falls out lol.. a pretty good rule of thumb I have found is around 5 thou for both.. its a Goldie locks zone.. not too tight and not too loose.
Adjusted the valves on a 19.5 hp briggs and Stratton engine to .005. However, still popping and backfiring on idle. When I engage blades manually, the popping and backfiring disappears. What could be my issue?
@@davidthurston4241 Actually that was my problem, I had ordered a carburetor for the 18hp engine and that was my causing my problem. Ordered a new aftermarket rated for 19.5hp and cleared all my problems. Hope this helps for anyone that could come across this.
I have a question for you? I adjusted my valves on my Yard Machine riding mower 13.5. The mower started, and I drove it around & it did fine. I drove back in the garage and let it set for a while. Later, on the same day, I tried to start mower & it would not start. I took the valve cover off and went to reset valves again & the bottom intake valve would not close or open. The exhaust valve or top one did fine. Could you or someone respond with what is wrong. Thank you
I would need a bit more information from you.. off the top of my head my 1st thought is you could have made the valve too tight when you adjusted it.. I have unfortunately done this a few times in the last 30 years and by doing so i broke a push rod.. my 1st question is did you check the push rod to see if it was loose.. if it was too tight it could have driven thru the keeper inside the motor as well like using a hammer to drive a nail.. my understanding is when you turn the motor over one valve goes in and out as it should but the other does nothing.. my next step would be to remove the head and take a look inside.. is a valve seat jammed and causing the valve not to open or close.. is the back of the push rod broken off? luckily its not an expensive fix even if those things are true .. feel free to email me if you need more help or just respond here.. keep me informed on what you find and I will do my best to walk you through it
I have a Poulan with 15.5 HP Intek that has given me these same problems for years. I replaced camshaft(Surprise! compression release was not broken.) Replaced carburetor( Chinese Nikki knockoff), did not fix the problem. Remedy was to buy 2015(brand new)John Deere S240 with dependable Kawasaki 18 HP V twin. I have often wondered if the flywheel key is broken and timing is off.
Sometimes u go as far as u can before losing your desire to make something old live.. it Def could have been a sheared timing key .. I assume that when u replaced the cam u reset the valves.. sounds like u did all you could do.. thanks for taking the time to subscribe and comment.. I appreciate it very much
So mine is stalling out at about 1/2 throttle. Spitting out of intake. I've taken the engine apart twice since putting in a new camshaft and a new carburetor, nothing is bad, bent, or anything of the sort. Carb has been adjusted. New plug also. Oil didn't have metal fragments in it. It just refuses to throttle up without missing and losing power. Engine is a 17.5 hp I/C on a Craftsman body. Any ideas? Valve lash has been adjusted... I know all about those things I'm actually pretty mechanically inclined. Intake is .005 and exhaust is .007. I've tried everything from .004 tight/loose to .006/.010 no effect.
That's a head scratcher.. I'm gonna think about that for a few hrs. I read your message 3 times and I keep going back to a carb issue.. like when u throttle up its being chocked.. not getting enough air and so the gas is not all being fired and being spit out . I'd cmdoubke check the intake manifold for cracks or leaks. And I've had that happen with a new carb that was bad from the factory and I've put a different carb on which fixed the issue. Something is bogging the engine down which could be a head or head gasket problem also but I assume u checked / change when rebuilding the motor. Keep me informed and I'll think on it
@@MunkyWrench yeah I'm lost on this one. I didn't tear down the engine from the flywheel side so the flywheel, stator etc hasn't been looked at yet but I did break it down from the cam side. So what I've checked so far and all are good: Piston travel Piston walls are smooth valves aren't scarred no contact between valves and piston. Rods are straight Valve springs are good, caps are still on valve stems. Rockers are good, rocker studs are seated tight Timed it by dots both teardowns. Governor is good and intact Camshaft is new, new compression trigger Pushrods are new and good Counterbalance is good and floating right Plug is new Carb is new and adjusted to standard 1&3/4 turns out, and tweaked to no effect One thing I'm noticing is that a lot of videos I'm seeing with that engine it looks as if their valves are opening much farther than mine...but as I said my rockers, studs, springs, caps, valves, pushrods, cam etc are all good. But when I turn the flywheel by hand they may open 3/16"? If that. Both sides. Honestly it feels like I'm getting too much compression...but what would cause that? I know a leaky piston will cause low compression but it just feels like mine is too much
@AnothaGuy87 I've seen valves that would stick closed or partially closed but that's only due to carbon buildup on the guide .. too much compression could only be caused by carbon on piston or sleeve and doesn't sound like that's your problem.. silly question. U got the right crank in there, correct.. I've seen an oversized out of spec cam or crank be too tight in the guides
@@MunkyWrench the gear fits right, and I'm pretty sure I checked the lobes to the one I took out of it and they looked the same. I say I'm pretty sure... But not positive. It's very likely I'll tear it down again and if I do I'll put a caliper on the lobes. That being said if I'm having too much compression that's probably an undersized lobe condition not allowing the exhaust to open up enough. Funny thing is tho that I ran the mower about 6 hours after the cam swap and it did fine. Really well actually. Then I throttled down to disengage the blades, throttled back up and it started missing and lost power. And yessir I checked the belts and pulleys and such. They're all good.
@AnothaGuy87 yes worn lobes would cause valve not to open enough but I think u would notice that I meant the crank body where it fits in engine case.. but yeah it ran for hrs no problem then power down and wouldn't power up. Not sure but now I want to know
Nice video man ! Just purchased my first zero turn . And I’m getting a popping sound when it’s under load and the PTO is in gauged. I said yeah that’s not running right I need to fix this before it goes out in the field , I used to adjust my dirt bikes valves and reshim them when needed .. this looks like a walk in the part . Thanks for posting !
Put both intake and exhaust at .004 whenever I do one never any issues ...an adjust when both valves are closed at top dead center on compression stroke
Easier way to adjust the valves is spin the flywheel until both are loose. This would make the motor be on the compression stroke or power stroke, which means both valves would be closed.
And when they are both loose is this when you set the valve lash?, mine is a 13.5 tecumseh, i do appreciate the input now that i'am, retired i want to cut my own grass and maintain these things myself. Ijust want to cover every aspect before ii attempt a valve job, there seems to be way to much compression while trying to start the engine, that usually indicates a worn crankshaft, or worn compression relief tab, hopefully just reseating the valves would be nice. As i learn more about these small engines i realize that it took a real genius to engineer one, they absolutely amaze me that they even function at all. As an educated person when my grandson was showing me his camera he got for his birthday he told me that this little chip he was holding can store 3 ,000 photos it isn't as big as my pinky finger nail, it makes me wonder how did we , as human beings get to this place we are in now so quickly, just a life time ago no scientist would ever believe that was possible, in fact i barely comprehend it myself. You can only imagine my disbelief when this same grandchild told me they make a card the same size that holds twice the amount of 3,000, how did we become so smart, yet we allow a common criminal to lead our nation in to total destruction.
@@dr.robertsmith1971 thousands of people cheated in at least 12 different ways to affect those vote totals. They are insane political activist types who create havoc at peaceful protests of good people and those activists are behind the violent riots. They are paid to do what they do. Watch the latest video with Dinesh D'Souza and rudy giulliani. They talk about the corruption at many levels and how it's funded against the populace who legally elected TRUMP.. It's healthy to point these days things out and educate each other in peaceful discussion of why the country is sick and doesn't just need one doctor, but scores of them in Congress to replace the bad ones. You have to keep voting and do so effectively. Find out who is in need of replacement on your ballot, where you live and help get them to go to put who you want instead in government. It's our right and duty. And a duty to the young who are confused by bad teachers. That's another facet of the coming problems for the future.
@@dannylinc6247 In a million years, very few would believe that mrs. Clinton is capable of the things that now we know she indeed did these atrocious things affecting the outcome of an election--- I agree with you 100%
@@dr.robertsmith1971 yes she's "horrifying", to use her words about us "deplorables". But somebody we never heard of, lower on the feeding chart, some citizen in their employ takes the fall while she knocks off the witnesses, it seems like.
Thank you this will be the way I do the valves on my mower I tried the getting it to top Center with a screwdriver I have very bad luck with that I got my mower engine going like new with the way you do it starts up almost instantly now I have a feeling it’s also the new cylinder head that helped I would have to crank it for 10 seconds or more to get it to start before I did this
@@Michaelc-gn3eg if u have a place close by like I do for used engines it's sometimes worth it.. but most homeowner machines don't need replaced.. I constantly see 50 yr Old machines with very minor issues. They last a long time if maintained
Great vid! Just ordered new carb for my 13.5hp MTD Yard Machines mower and it is back firing like crazy. Tried setting the new carb multiple times, but it is surging and popping/backfiring... Will try to set the valves tomorrow. Hope it helps! So just to be sure, you set the valves, one at a time, while valve is closed?
Yes tdc is not important on small engines.. turn the motor by hand and watch the valves move.. when one is pressed in the other should wiggle with your fingers which means there is no pressure on it.. as long as no pressure is on it you can set the valve.. then just turn the motor by hand until the other side can wiggle and set it.. easy peasy.. let me know how it comes out.. i normally wouldn't say change the plug as I maybe get 1 or 2 bad plugs each year.. but this past month i have had 6 failed plugs .. so something in the weather lol check or change the plug.. half bad spark can cause it too.. if neighther work you can then pop the flywheel and make sure the timing key is intact.. rarely but sometimes the key will be partially sheared and can cause that nonsense.. keep me informed and good luck.. thanks for subscribing
@@MunkyWrench Well, got the valves set. Mower started faster, ran a bit better, but still similar symptoms. Got ahold of seller where I purchased carb, they sent out a new carb. Hopefully will get the new carb installed tomorrow. Fingers crossed this is the fix. Because I did get it to run pretty smooth, but only while leaving the machine fully choked. Both valves had alot of slop by the way...
@@splash5974 yes if it only runs on choke it means a jet is blocked.. a new carb should finish the repair.. thank for keeping me up to date.. let me know how it ends
Thanks for a great Vid I have a similar Briggs and that has helped a lot now Im trying to replace the Carb but no idea what type or model would you be able to give a heads up on where to source and what to ask for I would be most grateful . on the valve cover there are markings it has 280707 1060E1 030113ZE Many thanks best regards Bill
Hey Bill thanks for watching and subscribing.. there's 2 ways to look that up sorta .. I use www.partstree.com and they are simple because u look up the motor by brand and size then code.. u can also look for the numbers on the carb itself for internet research.. and u can always Amazon the brand and size of motor including the word carburetor.. and u will find it.. many are interchangeable with various motors.. so if u go Amazon route your gonna be fine.. that's what I do and I think I got the wrong carb once in the last 5 years and I just returned it .. it's pretty easy.. for actual code u can call ANY lawnmower parts store and give them the numbers by phone and they will sell u an expensive oem part but rarely will they give u the info cause they don't want u to buy a $20 carb on amazon.. which is what I do
Dude, I am exactly the same. I just adjust both to .005. It is a lot less headache, and it gives you a little room either way in case your clearance changes when you tighten it. I do it the same way you do. I hate the screwdriver method too. I never could get it to work right anyway.
Thank you I think I might know what's wrong with mine now it spits and sputters going up a hill at blew out white smoke hopefully this will be my problem although my more runs good and does the job spitting and sputtering it only smoke on an uphill
Oil level too full can do that too. Mine does it if it is a little too full, when I am riding sideways on my hills. Oil tilted to the left hand side of the engine.
Quick question what is a good base screw adjustment for that air to fuel to start at? From all the way in. How many turns out would be a good starting point?
I have that same engine here popping like a mofo. And I've been playing with the carburetor with no avail. I will be taking a valve cover off and doing the adjustment and then retweek in the carburetor. Thanks for your input in advance.
@@ronjohnstonaustralia2417 still sitting in the backyard. I have so many other projects going on cars ATVs go-karts and house stuff. I think it's the rocker stud loosened up. At some point I'll power washing machine fix it and put it up for sale
Hey there friend got a troy pony tired of working on the dam thing every time I mow looking for me a nother mower all rite then have a good time workin
Intake valve stays cooler cause u have cooler air passing by it from intske runner, - The Ex. valve has all the red hot exhaust gases passing by it . This is why cars can have plastic intake manifolds.
I need help. I was given a Touro 8 hp. It’s called a wheel horse 8.25 person that gave it to me says the battery dies not charging. I need to buy a battery ha ha ha is there anything you can tell me I should look for
@FranciscoMartinez-oh6wx before u buy a battery try charging the one u have if the charging abatement is not working the battery may be fine. If u don't have a charger .. any auto parts store will charge it free if u take to them.. battery are $35 @ ealmart.. 235 CCA is all u need.. u need a multimeter to test the charging system. Once u have a charged or new battery just check voltage should be between 12.5 and 13 vokts.. give or take.. then start the mower.. while it's running check the voltage again it should jump up by at least 1 volt.. if it does not then u either have a bad stator or bad voltage regulator.. I have a video on how to check it.. if you look through my vids and find it it shows exactly how ro check both easily with a multi meter. If u can't find it let me know I'll send u a link when I get home from work
I have been working on lawn equipment for over 60 years- I have found maybe 3 times- an engine would not run because of a bad spark plug - tip if you don't have a feeler gauge- use a piece of a pop can-it is not a space ship--LOL ( taryl )-- I have 2 pieces of lawn equipment - both over 40 years old-- original plugs in both- both start 2nd pull
Always a slight drag on the valve setting then you'll be in the middle, adjust the intake at 6 and exhaust at 7 that increases hp. I'd continue what your doing unless power increase is needed
Bud exact problem I’m haveing . So tomorrow I’m adjusting valves . (Same motor too) never adjusted valves on it and I’ve had it 7 yrs and I got it used . Pretty sure that’s the problem . With the exception, of sticking multiple feeeler gauges in over and over ( super stupid ) after 2 I got it . And the best of us can foget to put the plug in . Or attach the plug wire . So other than the dorky bit you were awesome and bet ya fixed my problem . Was afraid it would be tough . But ya showed it to be easy will getter done tomorrow. Thank you
Hey brother the way you showed how to adjusted the valves is spot on. I'm a retired machinist and I've worked on small engines all my life and the other guys like you said totally over complicate the process. I just wanted to say I really like the way you did your video and you didn't over complicate anything. Thanks again for sharing you the man!!
Thanks so much for your kind words and for coming by. See you soon
Because of your comment, and curiosity, I’m watching this video. Take care brother
How do you over complicate a valve adjustment? It's really as simple as it is in the video. I know some people could make boiling water seem as complex as designing the space shuttle. But valves?
@josephherron7671 maybe you should watch some other people's videos on adjusting valves before you comment on the over complicating aspects in my comment.
I can’t Thank you enough for this simple lesson in valve adjustment. I’ve worked on small engines before although I never quite understood the whole valve adjustment procedure. I feel super confident in my ability to adjust them now. Not so much before. Lol!
Besides you saved me from having to contact the ex to set the valves. 😮🥴 That’s a bad situation and a topic that I’ll save for a therapist. 😂😂
So kind of your for letting me know. I love to hear when one of my vids helps someone out. I'm proud of you for taking on your own repairs.. wish my ex's did that lol.. thanks so much for subscribing and hitting the thumbs up.. it really helps.. and if you need help u can't find in one of my vids feel free to message me and ask.. I do my best to walk subscribers through any problems they encounter.. see you soon
That’s one thing my Daddy always said growing up is that he never wanted us to have to depend on a man. He wanted us to be able to stand on our own 2 feet, so he made me learn to do everything. I had to work on my own cars, small engines, electronics, etc. I’m Thankful for it now, when I was younger though not so much. 😂 Well I sure appreciate you and I know who to call on next time I have a question. 💛
@@angieharrison3814 women like you are diamonds in the rough.. wish I came across someone who's dad taught them to take care of themselves.. see you soon
Thank you so much and you were 100% right on how to adjusting the rockers, you way was perfect. Started right away and purring like a cat. Thanks again much appreciated.
Glad you stopped by and glad it worked out.. happy to help
@@MunkyWrenchno
Small engine mechanic here, loving the keep it stupid simple (keep it simple stupid) vibe. Honestly, I'm about to try that in the shop today. I've always hated the tdc method, but it was the one i learned. Spot on, man loved the video!
Always good to hear nice comments especially from a fellow wrench Turner. Hope it works for u.. see u soon
I've done this Dozens of times before, found this video looking for specs on a 17.5 briggs - Gotta say well done man somehow you had me watching you doing it the entire time without scrolling away. You are a good teacher!
Thanks so much for your kind words.. makes me feel good that I can help someone or at least keep them entertained for a few minutes..
Thanks for taken the time to share your knowledge. For any fixit guy or gal this is priceless info.
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing and taking the time to say something nice.. my vids have gotten much better ( I hope) over the years and it is always nice to here from people that found enjoyment or knowledge from a video I have done
It’s videos like this that make RUclips a modern day Alexandria’s Library. Thank you for the very clear video on adjusting valves, I learned a lot. Turns out my whole post that holds the exhaust rocker is loose and causing a 3/8” gap! Hoping to just be able to tighten the whole thing down, set the gap, and have it start and run like new. Thanks for teaching this and helping me save money.
@INeedAuserName1029 thank you for your kind words.. yes as long as the post is not stripped out and u can tighten it you should b good to go.. they occasionally back out with vibration.. tighten it just til it stops moving to test.. then pull it out and put some Lock-tite on the thread.. then tighten and it will stop it from happening again
Hey brother. I would like to thank you for this video. You saved me a lot of money. Even the so-called mechanic couldn't fix it. I followed your directions and I was able to fix my mower. Thanks again.
Geez that's rough. As a Small engine shop I only touch what i can fix or everything is free 😅 (parts and work up to the point of failure)
My tractor had this issue and just finished adjusting the valves Great video and thank you.
Glad I could help.. great job fixing it. Thanks for subscribing
Man thank you for the detailed easy to understand video. I think you might've just helped me fix my mower. Gonna give this a shot when i get a set of those gauges and some free time!
Hey thanks for the kind words.. please do me a favor and subscribe while your here it really helps.. Adjusting the valves is very important and pretty easy.. you can grab feelers guage set at any auto parts store for under $10 , I know you can do it I have faith in you .. remember to let the gasket sealer set up for 24 hours before running the machine so you don't blow it out of the cover and get a leak.. good luck and let me know how it turns out .. I am always here if you have questions
@@MunkyWrench you got it man! Thanks again! I'll let you know how it goes.
Excellent info from this video. I made the mistake of adjusting at top dead center only to continue to have occasional misfire ---watched your video, went back in and did it the way you showed and it runs like a new one.
Thank you for the help!
So glad to hear when my vids help someone .. Thanks so much for letting me know and congrats on fixing it yourself my friend
Man old school explanations are whAt drives knowledge into your head. These young ones they're hard headed instead of taking advice from a specialist they want to lio er some sort of technique they can name but we both know it don't work that way. Not from jumpstreeit don't anyway. I like your style we are the same. You just taught me about Briggs valves and I'm 57 years old.
I had an old Troy Bilt mower with a Briggs engine that a friend gave to me. He told me the engine was locked up, so I took it for parts. When I finally got around to messing with it, I found that the valves were so far out of adjustment that it was building too much compression to even turn over. I had never seen that before. I did an adjustment and it fired right up. Unfortunately, it had been in my back yard for a couple of years and I had already stolen some parts off of it. I am still putting it back together, lol.
I've been working on an 18 yr old Bolens, had valve trouble (would get 'stuck' turning over) then sat for 5 years. Adjusted valves, would only start w/some carb cleaner & run for a couple seconds. Cleaned the carb, started but was backfiring. You nailed it! I guess didn't adjust the exhaust valve, it was big time loose. After adjusting, it sounded like a new engine! Have an unrelated (I think) issue w/idle fluctuating, but that's for another discussion. Thanks man!
Glad my video helped.. always happy to hear it.. if it's surging when running uts usually a clogged jet in the carb.. I often have to clean a carb two times or more to get it right.. look for a specific vid on your carb so u don't miss anything. I usually just buy new carb for $20 these days
Noted re: the carb. It was bad, this gel-like substance in the bowl. I'll clean it again, but like you said I can't believe how cheap new carbs are! Found mine for $20. Also, in the past I was using the Top Dead Center method for positioning the valves. Didn't have to! Used your method and from now on that's the way to go.
Awesome because this is exactly what's happening with mine. I put a new carb on it ran much better but it had that backfiring so my next step is adjusting the valves like you did! Thank you so much for this video I'm not a mechanic but I watch your video and that's my next step. I'll let you know if she Smooths out after that
Thanks for your kind words and for subscribing.. it really helps. Please let me know if it smooths out for you. I'm always interested.. and remember to change your spark plugs they can contribute to the problem although they don't normally go bad these days it is possible in these cases
I just done mine the same way that you just said worked out awesome thank you for teaching us and thank you for the video
I had a Murry 40 inch cut with a Briggs 12.5 horsepower engine, it was very low on power ( a 2004, this was 2018 ) I readjusted the valves, made a very big difference, 30 minutes later it was blowing oil out all over. I ook the engine apart, the top piston ring broke in 3 places. After considering my options, I put a Kohler 25 horsepower V twin on runs great does a very good job.
Sir I enjoy your videos, you do very good work 😊
I appreciate your kind words , your subscribing to my channel and u taking the time to share. Sounds like you made the right decision.. it's nice to find others that actually take the time to repair machines yourself.. stay handy my friend
Did it have anything to do with the way adjusted your valves? I'm at newbie at this stuff and I don't wanna go destroying anything.
@@bdaddy503
No, the valves didn't hit anything. It was because it increased the compression and I think the extra pressure broke the top compression ring.
@@bertgrau3934 adjustingvthe valves increased the pressure?
@@bdaddy503
That engine it did. They were way off like over 50 thousands of an inch too loose. The clearance should be around .0004 to .0006. So the valves were just barely opening. It was so low on power it would hardly pull its self. After I adjusted the valves it was running strong. (For a 12.5 horsepower engine)
My Murray had the exact same problem after watching your video it’s purring like a kitten thank you so much
Thanks for saying so. It makes everything I do worth doing to hear that I helped someone. Thanks for joining me here hope you have a great day. See you soon
Nice work. Glad I'm not the only one who would forget I left out the spark plug before turning the key.
Thanks for making me feel better lol
This is a great video on how to adjust your valves. I tried to follow the put your screwdriver in the spark plug hole and my mower sounded like an airplane.
Follow these instructions and you will be fine. Tractor runs like new now.
So glad I could help.. thanks for the kind words
Thanks for a great instructional video. You uncomplicate the valve adjustment procedure. And yes l too have forgotten to put the spark plug in.
Terry. Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks so much for your kind words ... it means a lot to me that I help people.. thanks for subscribing too it helps me grow and help others.. you rock
Had same issue and this video explained it perfectly how to solve problem thank you for great helpful video
So glad it helped.. thanks for subscribing.. hope you stop by again
The intake rod is centered in its valve guide.
Since the only contact the rod has is on both ends, and only one end is hot AND intake air is cool is why that rod can be made of aluminum.
The exaust rod is steel simply due to the extreme heat of exhaust gases.
Thanks brother I thought I was the only one that worked like that lol I got your Chanel now, you rock
Thanks so much
What happened of the valve one on the top is too tight in the bottom is loose
valves work them out of adjustment on the regular and need regular maint to keep them at the right settings.. adjusted and no issues
The inlet valve is cooled by the air/fuel mixture. The exhaust valve runs hotter because of the hot exhaust gases. The inlet valve is in line with the pipe from the carb.
Thank You! Ver informative work on my own stuff even worked on other peoples mowers, but hate doing the valve adjustment because looking for that op dead center is always a pain. Need to adjust my Briggs twin cylinder 24 hp very soon cause it’s sputtering a bit. I will use our method.
Thanks again Raul 👍
Thanks for watching and subscribing plus taking the time to leave a comment it really helps me reach more people. I know my method is easier for some people including myself and it's very effective I hope it makes your life easier
You make this easy to understand thank you
Thanks for taking the time to let me know. I'm so glad I could help
Great Job! I've never seen this done, plus, having the same model I have, is rare for a repair video. Thanks!😅
Thanks for taking the time to comment and subscribe .. it helps me grow .. I really hope my video helps. If it turns out to be a different issue just leave me a comment on any vid or email me and I'll help u figure out what u need
@@MunkyWrench Well, reason I watched is because I saw blue smoke (not plumes) after finishing lawn, 100 degrees outside. I thought I pushed mower too hard.. I was hoping to clean some parts (carb,muffler,air filter) instead of fixing head gasket or something drastic like that..
Sill valid after 2 years. Saved me a trip to the shop.
so nice to hear when I help someone thanks so much for watching and subscribing
I tried the other way of adjusting the lifters and the engine was way out of whack. Would not even turn. I tried your way and tried to start it and it barely spun and fired up and ran perfectly. Thanks!!
Thanks for letting me know. It always means so much to me to know I was able to help someone.. proud of u for fixing it yourself and not giving up.. thanks for watching and subscribing
If you simply turn the engine until one two let arm is tight and the other is loose, how do you know it’s at it loosest point?
I thought finding TDC on compression stroke then going 1/4” further down with the piston puts the valves in correct position for adjustment
on an expensive large engine with perfect tolerance thats true but lawnmowers and small engines don't have such tight torlerances . I have never had an issue doing it this way in 40 years since I was a kid
You just helped me fix my beast. Thank you sooo much brother
That's great to hear.. thanks for letting me know
Like Taryl Dactyl would say..." And there's your dinner, wheeee whooo"! Lol! Great video! Thank you!
Taryl is why i started this channel.. 10k subs this week... thanks for stopping by and commenting it means a lot..
@@MunkyWrench Awesome! I just subscribed!
Thanks so much and welcome.. Shorts posted most days and vids every sat morning@@funwithdlvlogs4184
I was having the same issues with my John Deere 18.5 Z225. I changed the carburetor, air filter, oil filter, gas filter , change oil, took off the gas tank make sure that was no debris in the tank. I changed spark plug. Put a tester from the plug the magneto, spark was good. But I still can’t get the dam thing to start or run. So now I will try to adjust my valves. If you can help with my problem please let me know. Thank you great video. I love how you took your time.
Did u check compression.. u only need 3 things to run. Fuel. Spark and compression.. try sorting a bit of carb cleaner into the carb and starting it. It will only run for a few seconds but it will narrow down your issues to purely fuel.. if u have spark and it still does not start with carb spray.. check compression if u can.. if not then remove the valve cover and check for a stuck valve or missing or bent push rod.. if it does run for few seconds.. pull the fuel line to the carb and turn key.. make sure fuel is getting to the carb. Let me know if u need more advice
Are you able to spin the flywheel by hand with the spark plug in? Is so, you have weak compression.
thanks for doing this, video i have this same problem, and i think this is the issue, btw your videos are awesome
What happens if I do exactly what you did and it's still doing the same as you described? Could it be a faulty carb I ordered? There's no adjustments on that other than the idle screw.
Thanks for assistance!
It could be a handful of things.. on Chinese Amazon carbs its hit or miss but I've gotten bad ones out the box.. also could be bad spark plug.. buy brand name spark plugs never use cheap Chinese ones that come with kits.. you have a fuel solenoid cutoff on the bottom of the carb if it is not working correctly it can cause a backfire when you shut the machine off.. is it idling bad? up and down? cause that's a carb issue.. it could also be a magneto that's starting to go bad.. you would have to let it warm up then check with a multi meter .. if the magneto is beginning to fail the spark will become weak and intermittent you could also have bad fuel lines.. are they hard.. if you squeeze them do they spring right back to shape.. they could be collapsing or partially clogged.. if there is a fuel pump it could be starting to fail.. if you can be more specific I can narrow it down for you.. if you can email a short video of it running so I can hear it I may be able to narrow it down.. I would buy a new brand name spark plug.. check the gap and try it.. if you adjusted the valves its not that.. I can walk you through the other stuff and I have videos on most of those things too
@@MunkyWrench Not really he is on the wrong stroke, both valves should have no pressure if he is on the right stroke
happy to hear from all sides so glad you commented. in my 25 plus years of working on mowers I have found that valves still work with over 15 thou out of range and with one being pulled the other is completely free so it works just fine.. always has. clearly I don't work as a certified mech but this video alone has helped thousands of people adjust valves successfully . thousands have left comments thanking me after the fact so I will stick with my way
@@MunkyWrench it was a faulty Amazon carb. Ordered a new one that had the adjustment screw. However, I didn't have to mess with it. Bolted on and started right up with no issues. I did adjust the valves prior to the specs you gave. Motor runs like a champ. Thank you!
@@timtaylor4476 Thanks for letting me know it turned out ok I am proud of you for getting it done. I think I got a bad Amazon carb too so im ordering a new one tomorrow and will see how it goes..
Good video at a time when i needed the help.
Nothing as sweet as the typical sound of a Briggs... 🥰
My fav
What are the 2 ways to adjust a Nikki carb?
Every time I think I understand this stuff, it turns out I don't.
That's life 😂
Keep learning. You will never learn it all. No matter how much you know there's always something new to learn. That's what makes it so much fun.
What happens if the valve clearance is too tight rather than too loose?
Dude you are so fricking annoying
Your learning.
Me too
Wow I was given this exact mower from a neighbor. Replaced coil and starter solenoid both were bad and she fired right up. But is ruff and back firing. Niki carb not much adjustment I think you just gave me the answer ! Now what did you do about the key not shutting off engine. Mine does the same thing. Fantastic vid man I subscribed.
U have to check the wire connections between the key and the magneto.. all it does is create a ground connection to remove the spark.. I ran every line for continuity and found the spade connection had broken.. I replaced and plugged it back in.. I've had cases where the key switch had gotten corroded on other machines causing the same problem.. glad I was able to give u some new ideas.. thanks for watching and subscribing
@@MunkyWrench sure enough the valve set was way out. Much improved yet still ran a bit ruff with some back pressure through carb. Had an old Nikki on the shelf cleaned up changed it out and bam smooth idle and full throttle. Bucks just a little when blades are engaged . Think recheck valves in the morning but still happy with results. I never adjusted valves in my life but now have confidence to do so. I’ll chase key issue down tomorrow as well thanks again.
@johnanthony2545 hey well done .. I'm proud of u ..
Bravo! Thank You Stud!
Thanks for watching.. Merry Christmas
Great video.. on hands learning is the best way to do this stuff.
Thanks so much for your kind words.. I have hundreds of videos and repairs so hope u come back again
Gonna try this today. It’s really slow to start. It’s an old 24hp Briggs, I’m positive the valves have never been adjusted.
Def.. most people never adjust them.. they should be checked every year.. if battery is good and fully charged .. valves are next step.. good luck and thanks for watching
@@MunkyWrench valves were out of spec (loose). And the head gasket was definitely rough. Oh and both push rods were bent 😂. I don’t know how it was running but she’s getting rebuilt to live again.
@@Mc88Flyy sounds like a fun afternoon for you.. good luck .. im sure she will purr
Pretty cool.
Great work man
Thanks so much for you kind words and for subscribing .. it really means a lot
Thanks for sharing. Good video.
Happy Thanksgiving
Greetings from Canada.
Really good video. I’ve watched A LOT of small engine vids and this is one of the better ones so far.
Curious though, when u talked about finding top dead center with a screwdriver and did it instead by getting one valve lose and one tight does TDC matter the way you do it? Does being TDC on the compression stroke matter the way you do it?
Thanks for such a good video!!!
Thanks so much for watching.. in a nutshell on larger equipment TDC is more vital but in small engines it is not needed.. basically by doing it with one valve open and one closed you are just taking the pressure of the spring off and ,,making it loose to set your clearance .. and since the clearance can range by a few thousands of an inch its just important that the pressure is taken off when setting the valves.. finding TDC is also subjective meaning when you use a screwdriver against the piston you work it up and down to find it.. and what you perceive as TDC can be slightly different that what another person thinks it is and all it does it relieve the pressure anyway.. hope this helped.. feel free to comment or ask questions any time
Do all engines use the same amount of clearance 4-6 thousands and 5-7 thousands?
@bigjoe2458 it's always good to check your specific specs but yes mostly that's what I use
Please do a full video on Briggs and Stratton 13.5 hp carburetor adjustment. I have a Bolens 38inch mower that is giving me all kinds of headaches.
There's actually little to zero adjustment on those carbs.. I'm happy to walk u through any steps you need to figure this out. A carb for a motor that size is around $20 and takes only a few mins to change out .. so that's usually what I do. Make sure the spring is on the linkage to the carb. That will cause issues if missing or stretched out.. you can check valve clearance if it's not running right. Tell me what is wrong and I'll try to help. U can message here or my email is on the ABOUT ME section of my main page
what year is that Murray you did a great job it sound very good
Thanks very much.. that was quite a while ago so I have no clue what year it was sorry
Is that 5 thou valve gap for all B&S engines? and if not, what is the gap settings for the B&S 6.5hp 212cc Intex?
You can look up your specific machine for manufacturers specs on a particular one but I have found that tolerances vary quite a bit per manufacturer on how far out of spec is ok before worrying , so a safe bet on most small engines is 4 to 6 thou .. i usually do standard 5 thou across the board.. and have never had a problem.. i work on hundreds of machines a month so that's just my experience.. hope this helps
Outstanding video my push mower backfires when we release the kill lever. What would you check 1st when that's going on? The carb is clean as a whistle I ran it through a hot ultrasonic machine. I thought it was a gap of 30, but Google says it's 20 gaps so I set it there. The spark plug had very little carbon just the best-looking spark plug I have ever seen.
Could be a bunch of things. The carb could be running a lil rich, the spark plug could be starting to go bad, u could have a partially sheared flywheel key that makes the timing slightly off. There are several other things to check but keep in mind while annoying it won't actually hurt the machine to backfire. Let me know if u figure out what the cause is I'm always interested
I have confidence in my carb but checking the spark it look weak to me and spark plug wire has a couple of deep wear marks on it so I guess I'll start by
Replacing it if still BF then I'll adjust it like it don't BF till I release the cutoff lever only then when it sound like a rifle and scope???
@@JasonSmith-qx3zh yeah usually too much fuel at the end with low rpm causes final backfire. Check timing key if it's partially off you wouldn't tell at regular high rpm.. only at low to none. Change plig could be as simple as that
when checking the valves adjustments? does it matter if the engine is old. or engine been running for a while?
I imagine you mean if its cold not old.. no worries.. no the motor temp does not matter with valve clearance .. hot or cold is all the same. Thanks for watching and subscribing.. it really helps me grow
Awesome thanks for the video. I think I have the same problem. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for stopping by.. I have hundreds of vids so hopefully I help someone in a small way.. happy Sunday
Thank you for this video....i will try this today!
Thanks for watching and subscribing I hope it helps u..
What were you turning to tighten rocker arm ( for the vale tight in)the, video didn’t show
Now, if the exhaust was at .005 and the intake was at .006 would it cause it to backfire out the carb and sorta lope? Mine will not idle, I have to have full choke and run it at full throttle for it to keep running
In my experience.. no I've done vids where the valve lash was over 20 or dead tight and still ran.. the problem with dead tight is it can throw a rod.. if your backfiring out the carb and it will only stay running at full choke I would first check carb.. if it only runs on choke you have a clogged jet most likely the low end. The backfire issue is usually cause by it being out of timing so if u pop the flywheel off you can look at the flywheel key it may be damaged or partially sheared. At 5 and 6.. your valves are just fine.. there's room for error in mowers.. let me know what u find and I'll try to help u find the issue
Agreed on the top dead center method.
I have the same mower 17.5 select. M
It starts up and back fires but it will drive but now when I engage the blades it will stall. Could the backfire cause that also
Not usually unless it's idle is too low.. it's usually a safety switch that causes it to die when blades are engaged
Usually seat safety.. if your not sitting in seat the blades will shut off engine
@@MunkyWrench I bought the mower last year so I just looked under the seat and don't see the switch there, I suspect it's bypassed. I see the whole but nothing is there
@tj trace the wires and make sure it's bypasses.. if someone just ripped it off and didn't bypass u still have same problem.. also .. and forgive me for not remembering.. if it's an electric pto to engage blades and battery is half dead it will kill motor
Welp, got my feeler gauge set and adjusted valves.
Replaced spark, fuel filter, air filter, disassembled carb and cleaned it out.
It ended up being my seat safety switch. I'm guessing it was closing the circuit as I was driving and all the little micro opening/closing makes the ignition sloppy and burns the fuel poorly causing a backfire.
Mine did that I changed air gap at coil between magnets stopped backfiring
Good tip
That customer did really well to get 30 years out of a Murray with a Failtek engine. They took pretty decent care of it.
Would 5 thousandths be the same on my Kohler 7000 Enduro?
Thanks for taking the time to comment and subscriber while your here it really helps. it is always best to look up the manufacturers specs on any particular machine for best results .. Having said that I know its often hard to find that stuff online so I will say this. when it comes to these motors a pretty good rule of thumb across most of them is anywhere from 4 to 6 thou.. technically they are supposed to be a bit different between intake and exhaust however in my many years of work have found them to be so far out of adjustment from lack of maint that they are both at 15 thou or more. the main thing is that they are not so tight that there's no space.. nor too loose that the valves don't open or the push rod falls out lol.. a pretty good rule of thumb I have found is around 5 thou for both.. its a Goldie locks zone.. not too tight and not too loose.
@@MunkyWrench yeah I already subscribed man, and thanks for the quick reply!
@@aaronsg71 I am always here cause I have no life lol.. ask questions anytime and I will do my best to help.. see you soon
@@MunkyWrench appreciate that
This is great. Lucky you, I would have never found the spark plug!
its easier than you think.. just a puzzle.. thanks for your kind words and the thumbs up
Adjusted the valves on a 19.5 hp briggs and Stratton engine to .005. However, still popping and backfiring on idle. When I engage blades manually, the popping and backfiring disappears. What could be my issue?
Also to mention it is on a 300ex Poulan pro riding mower
Carburetor
@@davidthurston4241 Actually that was my problem, I had ordered a carburetor for the 18hp engine and that was my causing my problem. Ordered a new aftermarket rated for 19.5hp and cleared all my problems. Hope this helps for anyone that could come across this.
I have a question for you? I adjusted my valves on my Yard Machine riding mower 13.5. The mower started, and I drove it around & it did fine. I drove back in the garage and let it set for a while. Later, on the same day, I tried to start mower & it would not start. I took the valve cover off and went to reset valves again & the bottom intake valve would not close or open. The exhaust valve or top one did fine. Could you or someone respond with what is wrong. Thank you
I would need a bit more information from you.. off the top of my head my 1st thought is you could have made the valve too tight when you adjusted it.. I have unfortunately done this a few times in the last 30 years and by doing so i broke a push rod.. my 1st question is did you check the push rod to see if it was loose.. if it was too tight it could have driven thru the keeper inside the motor as well like using a hammer to drive a nail.. my understanding is when you turn the motor over one valve goes in and out as it should but the other does nothing.. my next step would be to remove the head and take a look inside.. is a valve seat jammed and causing the valve not to open or close.. is the back of the push rod broken off? luckily its not an expensive fix even if those things are true .. feel free to email me if you need more help or just respond here.. keep me informed on what you find and I will do my best to walk you through it
Thanks. Changed carb because I had surging and backfire but still didn't fix it. Go out tomorrow and this job and hope really fix more.
Let me know how it goes.. as last ditch u can change spark plugs. They don't go bad often but it's possible sometimes
I have a Poulan with 15.5 HP Intek that has given me these same problems for years. I replaced camshaft(Surprise! compression release was not broken.) Replaced carburetor( Chinese Nikki knockoff), did not fix the problem. Remedy was to buy 2015(brand new)John Deere S240 with dependable Kawasaki 18 HP V twin. I have often wondered if the flywheel key is broken and timing is off.
Sometimes u go as far as u can before losing your desire to make something old live.. it Def could have been a sheared timing key .. I assume that when u replaced the cam u reset the valves.. sounds like u did all you could do.. thanks for taking the time to subscribe and comment.. I appreciate it very much
Dropped a like for quoting Taryl💚 grassrats for life!
I'm a huge Taryl Dactyl fan.. slippers kills me
So mine is stalling out at about 1/2 throttle. Spitting out of intake. I've taken the engine apart twice since putting in a new camshaft and a new carburetor, nothing is bad, bent, or anything of the sort. Carb has been adjusted. New plug also. Oil didn't have metal fragments in it. It just refuses to throttle up without missing and losing power. Engine is a 17.5 hp I/C on a Craftsman body. Any ideas?
Valve lash has been adjusted... I know all about those things I'm actually pretty mechanically inclined. Intake is .005 and exhaust is .007. I've tried everything from .004 tight/loose to .006/.010 no effect.
That's a head scratcher.. I'm gonna think about that for a few hrs. I read your message 3 times and I keep going back to a carb issue.. like when u throttle up its being chocked.. not getting enough air and so the gas is not all being fired and being spit out . I'd cmdoubke check the intake manifold for cracks or leaks. And I've had that happen with a new carb that was bad from the factory and I've put a different carb on which fixed the issue. Something is bogging the engine down which could be a head or head gasket problem also but I assume u checked / change when rebuilding the motor. Keep me informed and I'll think on it
@@MunkyWrench yeah I'm lost on this one. I didn't tear down the engine from the flywheel side so the flywheel, stator etc hasn't been looked at yet but I did break it down from the cam side. So what I've checked so far and all are good:
Piston travel
Piston walls are smooth
valves aren't scarred no contact between valves and piston.
Rods are straight
Valve springs are good, caps are still on valve stems.
Rockers are good, rocker studs are seated tight
Timed it by dots both teardowns.
Governor is good and intact
Camshaft is new, new compression trigger
Pushrods are new and good
Counterbalance is good and floating right
Plug is new
Carb is new and adjusted to standard 1&3/4 turns out, and tweaked to no effect
One thing I'm noticing is that a lot of videos I'm seeing with that engine it looks as if their valves are opening much farther than mine...but as I said my rockers, studs, springs, caps, valves, pushrods, cam etc are all good. But when I turn the flywheel by hand they may open 3/16"? If that. Both sides. Honestly it feels like I'm getting too much compression...but what would cause that? I know a leaky piston will cause low compression but it just feels like mine is too much
@AnothaGuy87 I've seen valves that would stick closed or partially closed but that's only due to carbon buildup on the guide .. too much compression could only be caused by carbon on piston or sleeve and doesn't sound like that's your problem.. silly question. U got the right crank in there, correct.. I've seen an oversized out of spec cam or crank be too tight in the guides
@@MunkyWrench the gear fits right, and I'm pretty sure I checked the lobes to the one I took out of it and they looked the same. I say I'm pretty sure... But not positive. It's very likely I'll tear it down again and if I do I'll put a caliper on the lobes. That being said if I'm having too much compression that's probably an undersized lobe condition not allowing the exhaust to open up enough. Funny thing is tho that I ran the mower about 6 hours after the cam swap and it did fine. Really well actually. Then I throttled down to disengage the blades, throttled back up and it started missing and lost power. And yessir I checked the belts and pulleys and such. They're all good.
@AnothaGuy87 yes worn lobes would cause valve not to open enough but I think u would notice that I meant the crank body where it fits in engine case.. but yeah it ran for hrs no problem then power down and wouldn't power up. Not sure but now I want to know
Always learning something
Sound great now but wa it back firing on reverse cause mine backbone reverse ? But I definitely going in to check this thanks for the the tip.
Nice video man ! Just purchased my first zero turn . And I’m getting a popping sound when it’s under load and the PTO is in gauged. I said yeah that’s not running right I need to fix this before it goes out in the field ,
I used to adjust my dirt bikes valves and reshim them when needed .. this looks like a walk in the part .
Thanks for posting !
Congrats on your zero. Once u get one u never want anything else. I hope adjusting the valves helps your problem.. thanks for stopping by
Put both intake and exhaust at .004 whenever I do one never any issues ...an adjust when both valves are closed at top dead center on compression stroke
How do you adjust your air screw on a carburetor I'm having problems with that myself
Easier way to adjust the valves is spin the flywheel until both are loose. This would make the motor be on the compression stroke or power stroke, which means both valves would be closed.
And when they are both loose is this when you set the valve lash?, mine is a 13.5 tecumseh, i do appreciate the input now that i'am, retired i want to cut my own grass and maintain these things myself. Ijust want to cover every aspect before ii attempt a valve job, there seems to be way to much compression while trying to start the engine, that usually indicates a worn crankshaft, or worn compression relief tab, hopefully just reseating the valves would be nice. As i learn more about these small engines i realize that it took a real genius to engineer one, they absolutely amaze me that they even function at all. As an educated person when my grandson was showing me his camera he got for his birthday he told me that this little chip he was holding can store 3 ,000 photos it isn't as big as my pinky finger nail, it makes me wonder how did we , as human beings get to this place we are in now so quickly, just a life time ago no scientist would ever believe that was possible, in fact i barely comprehend it myself. You can only imagine my disbelief when this same grandchild told me they make a card the same size that holds twice the amount of 3,000, how did we become so smart, yet we allow a common criminal to lead our nation in to total destruction.
@@dr.robertsmith1971 Are you okay bro? Went off on a bit of a tangent there. You need to talk?
@@dr.robertsmith1971 thousands of people cheated in at least 12 different ways to affect those vote totals.
They are insane political activist types who create havoc at peaceful protests of good people and those activists are behind the violent riots.
They are paid to do what they do.
Watch the latest video with Dinesh D'Souza and rudy giulliani. They talk about the corruption at many levels and how it's funded against the populace who legally elected TRUMP..
It's healthy to point these days things out and educate each other in peaceful discussion of why the country is sick and doesn't just need one doctor, but scores of them in Congress to replace the bad ones. You have to keep voting and do so effectively. Find out who is in need of replacement on your ballot, where you live and help get them to go to put who you want instead in government. It's our right and duty. And a duty to the young who are confused by bad teachers.
That's another facet of the coming problems for the future.
@@dannylinc6247 In a million years, very few would believe that mrs. Clinton is capable of the things that now we know she indeed did these atrocious things affecting the outcome of an election--- I agree with you 100%
@@dr.robertsmith1971 yes she's "horrifying", to use her words about us "deplorables".
But somebody we never heard of, lower on the feeding chart, some citizen in their employ takes the fall while she knocks off the witnesses, it seems like.
Great video Thanks.
Thank you this will be the way I do the valves on my mower I tried the getting it to top Center with a screwdriver I have very bad luck with that I got my mower engine going like new with the way you do it starts up almost instantly now I have a feeling it’s also the new cylinder head that helped I would have to crank it for 10 seconds or more to get it to start before I did this
Glad I was able to help.. great job getting yours fixed.. thanks for watching
@@MunkyWrench I’m just glad I’m done I probably should have replaced the engine I put over 200 into the engine
@@Michaelc-gn3eg if u have a place close by like I do for used engines it's sometimes worth it.. but most homeowner machines don't need replaced.. I constantly see 50 yr Old machines with very minor issues. They last a long time if maintained
Where can we get the gauges for the adjustment?
Any auto parts store sell them , also harbor frieght.. tractor supply.. or amazon.. they are usually less than $10
Great vid! Just ordered new carb for my 13.5hp MTD Yard Machines mower and it is back firing like crazy. Tried setting the new carb multiple times, but it is surging and popping/backfiring...
Will try to set the valves tomorrow. Hope it helps!
So just to be sure, you set the valves, one at a time, while valve is closed?
Yes tdc is not important on small engines.. turn the motor by hand and watch the valves move.. when one is pressed in the other should wiggle with your fingers which means there is no pressure on it.. as long as no pressure is on it you can set the valve.. then just turn the motor by hand until the other side can wiggle and set it.. easy peasy.. let me know how it comes out.. i normally wouldn't say change the plug as I maybe get 1 or 2 bad plugs each year.. but this past month i have had 6 failed plugs .. so something in the weather lol check or change the plug.. half bad spark can cause it too.. if neighther work you can then pop the flywheel and make sure the timing key is intact.. rarely but sometimes the key will be partially sheared and can cause that nonsense.. keep me informed and good luck.. thanks for subscribing
@@MunkyWrench Well, got the valves set. Mower started faster, ran a bit better, but still similar symptoms. Got ahold of seller where I purchased carb, they sent out a new carb. Hopefully will get the new carb installed tomorrow. Fingers crossed this is the fix. Because I did get it to run pretty smooth, but only while leaving the machine fully choked.
Both valves had alot of slop by the way...
@@splash5974 yes if it only runs on choke it means a jet is blocked.. a new carb should finish the repair.. thank for keeping me up to date.. let me know how it ends
@@MunkyWrench thanks again! Will do!
Thanks for a great Vid I have a similar Briggs and that has helped a lot now Im trying to replace the Carb but no idea what type or model would you be able to give a heads up on where to source and what to ask for I would be most grateful . on the valve cover there are markings it
has 280707 1060E1 030113ZE Many thanks best regards Bill
Hey Bill thanks for watching and subscribing.. there's 2 ways to look that up sorta .. I use www.partstree.com and they are simple because u look up the motor by brand and size then code.. u can also look for the numbers on the carb itself for internet research.. and u can always Amazon the brand and size of motor including the word carburetor.. and u will find it.. many are interchangeable with various motors.. so if u go Amazon route your gonna be fine.. that's what I do and I think I got the wrong carb once in the last 5 years and I just returned it .. it's pretty easy.. for actual code u can call ANY lawnmower parts store and give them the numbers by phone and they will sell u an expensive oem part but rarely will they give u the info cause they don't want u to buy a $20 carb on amazon.. which is what I do
Dude, I am exactly the same. I just adjust both to .005. It is a lot less headache, and it gives you a little room either way in case your clearance changes when you tighten it. I do it the same way you do. I hate the screwdriver method too. I never could get it to work right anyway.
Thank you I think I might know what's wrong with mine now it spits and sputters going up a hill at blew out white smoke hopefully this will be my problem although my more runs good and does the job spitting and sputtering it only smoke on an uphill
Oil level too full can do that too. Mine does it if it is a little too full, when I am riding sideways on my hills. Oil tilted to the left hand side of the engine.
@@kramnull8962 absolutely correct
Absolutely oil level can be too high.. if mower is smoking uts usually too much oil
@@MunkyWrench Ask me how I know...🙈
Quick question what is a good base screw adjustment for that air to fuel to start at? From all the way in. How many turns out would be a good starting point?
I have that same engine here popping like a mofo. And I've been playing with the carburetor with no avail. I will be taking a valve cover off and doing the adjustment and then retweek in the carburetor. Thanks for your input in advance.
@@nater6604 well did it ?
@@ronjohnstonaustralia2417 still sitting in the backyard. I have so many other projects going on cars ATVs go-karts and house stuff. I think it's the rocker stud loosened up. At some point I'll power washing machine fix it and put it up for sale
Hope you got it fixed. That air/fuel screw, turn it all the way in, then back it out 1.5 turns to start. Should be close at 1.5
Yeah i always do the lash on both strokes instead of TDC. When one is completely open i adjust the other and vice versa.
Hey there friend got a troy pony tired of working on the dam thing every time I mow looking for me a nother mower all rite then have a good time workin
Intake valve stays cooler cause u have cooler air passing by it from intske runner, - The Ex. valve has all the red hot exhaust gases passing by it . This is why cars can have plastic intake manifolds.
Helpful video about mower repairing.
I need help. I was given a Touro 8 hp. It’s called a wheel horse 8.25 person that gave it to me says the battery dies not charging. I need to buy a battery ha ha ha is there anything you can tell me I should look for
Toro is da
model name
@FranciscoMartinez-oh6wx before u buy a battery try charging the one u have if the charging abatement is not working the battery may be fine. If u don't have a charger .. any auto parts store will charge it free if u take to them.. battery are $35 @ ealmart.. 235 CCA is all u need.. u need a multimeter to test the charging system. Once u have a charged or new battery just check voltage should be between 12.5 and 13 vokts.. give or take.. then start the mower.. while it's running check the voltage again it should jump up by at least 1 volt.. if it does not then u either have a bad stator or bad voltage regulator.. I have a video on how to check it.. if you look through my vids and find it it shows exactly how ro check both easily with a multi meter. If u can't find it let me know I'll send u a link when I get home from work
Coils?
Haven't watched this video in over 2 years.. and its not one of my best.. if you have any questions feel free to ask I am always here
Great video, very informative.
Hey what type of feeler gauges are those like a standard or metric? I’m not sure what number you where reading of the feeler
The 5000 is .005 in the calibration?
Yes
I have been working on lawn equipment for over 60 years- I have found maybe 3 times- an engine would not run because of a bad spark plug - tip if you don't have a feeler gauge- use a piece of a pop can-it is not a space ship--LOL ( taryl )-- I have 2 pieces of lawn equipment - both over 40 years old-- original plugs in both- both start 2nd pull
The intake is on the top. The gap can be set with the crank anywhere as long as the lobes are not engaging the pushrods.
I yelled at the screen, you were not listening.🤣
Always a slight drag on the valve setting then you'll be in the middle, adjust the intake at 6 and exhaust at 7 that increases hp. I'd continue what your doing unless power increase is needed
Thanks for taking the time to watch and give tips.. u rock
Sorry but I’m new to this kind of repair job. What are those “keys” being used to measure, and where can I get them, please.
They are called " feelers Guage " and u can get them anywhere that sells auto parts or on Amazon. Never be afraid to ask questions
Bud exact problem I’m haveing . So tomorrow I’m adjusting valves . (Same motor too) never adjusted valves on it and I’ve had it 7 yrs and I got it used . Pretty sure that’s the problem . With the exception, of sticking multiple feeeler gauges in over and over ( super stupid ) after 2 I got it . And the best of us can foget to put the plug in . Or attach the plug wire . So other than the dorky bit you were awesome and bet ya fixed my problem . Was afraid it would be tough . But ya showed it to be easy will getter done tomorrow. Thank you
Thanks for stopping by.. I hope that's the issue. I know u can fix it. Good luck see u soon