How to Resume an Unfinished/Failed 3D Print! (EASY FIX!)
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
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Have you ever had a print run out of filament, or stop due to a power outage? Well here's an easy fix!
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I had just had a print 27 hours in fail due to filament getting snagged and it not feeding. It was 84% done, and this thing is over 360g in. YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER. So beautifully explained, and shown. You are an angel Emily :)
Omg, the best explanation and it works! Thank you so much! I'm sure I'll be using this solution over and over!
My fcked my printer up…
Dear Emily (singing like James Arthur)
You just saved 8 hours of work for my Ender 3!
Thank you for your videos!
Life is getting simple after watching your channel
Yooo glad to hear it Alex!!
I had a 24+ hour print, at 84% the filament stopped itself and I was so done with printing since it was the 3rd time it was happening. This is a life saver, more people should see this. Thank you so much
how is your comment nearly identical to someone elses..
I think you missed a very important step for some users, Cura uses absolute extrusion in defult, so if we dont use G92 to set the offset of the extruder, the printhead will move to the xyz axis of the first line of gcode and continuously extrude filaments until it reaches the extruder(E) distance, ending up with a huge huge blob. So what I did to fix this problem is to not delete everything in the printer startup gcode section, but to keep the 'G92 E0; Reset Extruder' line, and replace the E0 with whatever E distance you want it to continue from. so in my case was 942.12175, so I replace the E0 to E942.12175.
thank you
You my friend, are a life saver
Exactly what happened to me, i've never seen my extruder haul ass so fast 😂 thank you very much for the fix!
Yeah had the same issue
I’m so glad I read this first
Beautifully explained! This is such a daunting thing to think about to someone with little or no experience with gcode. You made the subject so approachable. Love it!
Thank you so much for this video. It not only helped me think straight but I really got to familiarize myself with the G28 command. For those people asking "What If I can't auto home because the print is too big?" I was able to find an open area at the top right of my print bed so I moved my print head over to that corner manually making sure there was enough clearance between the print head/gantry and the print then using pronterface send command: G28 Z ; This will auto home only Z. Now raise the z axis above the print, this time either through pronterface or your printers menu and send command: G2 XY; This will auto home x and y. Then follow the rest of the instructions in other tutorials to find the resume height and how to adjust your gcode. Good luck!
You need a space between X and Y. And the correct command is G28. So its actually G28 X Y
Yup I auto homed and messed up my printer
Thank you. Your instructions allowed me to restart a botched 4.5 day TPU print that was 75%completed. It was a glow filament that developed a clogged nozzle, which forced the filament out of my direct drive extruder, so it continued to feed, but out and onto the floor.
You are a life saver. Thank you!!!
OMG I honestly cannot even believe how amazing this tip is and how much frustration this will save.
Unfortunately, I had a 35 hour print, that finished at 3am, of course I ran out of filament. THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!
Being new to 3D printing, I have ran into stopped prints, due to laptop issues, way to many times, threw away too many long prints that stopped several hours into it, looked at so many videos that only confused me more. Found your video this morning, and you did an AMAZING job at explaining it in the simplest of ways to finally make me understand. Thank you very much for your help. Not only did you help me get that print back up and running, when my laptop had another issues, I was able to explain to my children how I was able to get it fixed, with your teachings. Very much appreciated!
Thank you, Emily the Engineer. I am extremely grateful. I was about 90% through a 3.5 day print job when I had an unexpected power loss. I was devastated. Fortunately, you took the time to post this video. Awesomeness! Thank you, thank you, thank you.
THANK YOU, I was a little worried about digging around the gcode, but seeing that it is really this easy to go back to it, it made me very confident to continue printing. You are a life saver. The print happily continues and what remains is one little line. That's a sacrifice, I'm willing to make. Once again, thank you.
I usually just take the part off the bed, measure the part and just lower that measurement down into the bed in Cura, leaving what didn't print above the bed, and print. Then I'll weld them together after the print is done.
Thank you so much!!!!! This helped me save my son’s 19 hour print. He was devastated when it failed and I’m so glad I watched this and was able to save it!
I can't thank you enough for this. Had a clogged nozzle 3 days into a 4 day print on a tight deadline. This helped me rescue the print and carry on.
One extra little consideration. If you set your fan speed differently for the first layer (ex: 0% on first layer and ramps up to 100% by 5th layer), then you need to retain the fan speed command since this may be deleted if you highlight everything shown in the video. Just search for the text "M106" and you should find multiple "M106 Sxxx" where the "x"s are numbers. Copy the last M106 command (the one with the largest Sxxx number) and insert it somewhere at the beginning of the gcode.
Although honestly is the fan really necessary? In PLA it isn't. CHEP did a video on this a few years ago... ruclips.net/video/Qg47Std5ywI/видео.html
@@rackets001 Yes but also no. If you print slow and at lower temps, you don´t need a fan, but when printing faster you WILL need a fan for PLA or it´ll just end ob as a soft blobby mess.
Printing without fan is definetly better for stronger parts
The ender let's you tune it while in print and you can turn on the fan as well if the gcode was deleted.
@@XA--pb9ni my print speed is 50, and fan speed 100 , is it good?
@@ravipatel6353 i don´t know. Depends on the cooling system
Hi Emily, thank you for sharing this. Your clear explanation about editing the gcode file was very helpful. It helped me to print the remaining 2mm of a print that was almost done when I ran out of filament.
As I saw the end in coming I did memorize the current layer height. I first tried pausing the print, to then melt a new piece of filament onto the last bit of old. That failed. It broke and when pulling the end I made the nozzle jam and reset the printer. After handling all that it was your video that finally helped me to finish my print with only a tiny bit of layer shift on a still usable print. Thank you so much!
Hail to the queen Emily, first of her name, savior of failed 3d printing! Long life to the queen!
Hey! I was printing a ukulele and it was about 80% done. It already took over a day to print and it failed. This video let me save it! I’m going to give it to my music teacher. You rock! 😁🎸
THIS VIDEO IS AWESOME!!! THE DETAILED EXPLANATION OF HOW TO EDIT THE GCODE IS GREATE!, I WAS GOING CRAZY TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO DO THIS AND NOT WASTE ANY MATERIAL EVERYTIME I GOT A FAILED PRINT AND THIS IS BEYOND A LIFE SAVER GREAT VIDEO, I LOVE IT THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION , VERY HELPFUL!
Being a cnc operator, I've done this after a tool break or change it is basically the same thing. Good video as always. Definitely want to see you time at the premiere. God bless
Yep, it's the same gcode language all cnc machines use, so principles are the same.
Super cool ! If I may ad, as a CNC programmer, it goes really slow when the program is launched again because the "F" in the Gcode is at 300, "F" is the speed, the line below is set as F9000, you could just rewrite the first F300 to F9000 and that should do it!
Great tutorial. Very well explained. Exactly what I need after getting my shirt caught in my printer 3 days into a Storm Trooper Helmet causing it to jam. I actually started the print again from the beginning, but now I know how to recover the failed print and any prints that fail in the future. It's nice to know that a failed print is not the end of the world anymore lol
Emily, your video has been a life saver, as I was able to resume a print that failed due to a clogged nozzle. Almost can't tell where it resumed. Brilliant!
Thank you i am a beginner 3d printer and this would have been my first all night print until, just before i went to bed i found that the filament had snagged and the printer had been printing for like 20 minutes without filament being fed in. Thanks this saved me like $5 of filament that i would have had to use to reprint it. Great tutorial ive decided to subscribe 👍
Edit: another failed print so now i gotta do it again
I find it more reliable to just cut the model and slice it again to print what was left and glue the parts together.
@@Darkhell87 ok maybe I'll try that
Exactly what I needed to save my 29 of 38 hour Iron Man MK2 helmet print.... thank you Emily... you and Frankly are what keep me going in this hobby. Be well my online friend.
Big thanks! was just a 8hr print but the loss of the entire print was not worth scraping it and starting over. Viewed 3 other videos and you were very clear and to the point.
I can’t thank you enough! Had a print on 5 days and a few hours with a few hours left and ran out of PLA, I thought I was SOL, and it’s now completed without restarting thanks to you!!
I know this was posted 1 year ago but this has been the best tutorial about this issue on youtube.
This was the most helpful video I have seen for this problem by FAR! I am so happy I found it because I was becoming so hopeless after three failures in my 16 hour print! THANK YOU!!
New sub! How have you never popped up in my searches when looking for info on 3d printing?!
This was so easy to follow, thank you.
I’m going to give this a try.
Thank you for this video, helped a ton and was very informative, ive watched so many videos like these and they just completely gloss over how to edit the gcode
You saved my 16 hour print. Thank you. My octoprint just disconnected for who knows why... And I thought i have to restart then and there. So thank you again you are a life saver :D
Regarding the layer shift - I saw another video that suggested that may be caused because you're starting at a height that's already been printed, so the ridge is just extra plastic. In your case, since you probably sand everything anyway, it's probably better to get a good "stick" to the previous print and deal with the ridge.
And anyone who tinkers with Gcode often might consider getting Notepad++. It's a little easier to work in, IMO.
Thanks for a great video.
Are you saying to start at the next height up and there will be no ridge?
OMG, you saved a print that I was 20 hours and 37 mins into. I watched several other videos, and they were not as easy as you made it! Thanks!
It worked for the most part. I used calipers to get the layer height and divided that by the layer height. Everything was working but since it has cooled down and reheated it lost it's adhesion. The slightest bump and it got missed aligned.
But, no fault of your instructions which were spot on. I have an Ultimaker 2+ and I didn't need to adjust the bed height as the job just resumed to the correct z-axis.
I ended up just printing the rest separately and I'll attempt to glue it together and then sand. Wish me luck and thanks for your help. I'm sure to use this method. ❤️
Thank you so much Emily! I was using that boring method of print the other half of the piece then gluie the pieces together. Thanks to your video now i can save my print!
Not sure if my 40 hour print failed because I watched this video this morning. But I’m glad I did! I was able to resume it with 0 issues!!! Thank you!
U could sense it coming huh
I just had a print fail because filament got tangled up. This was very informative. I didn’t have to start over!Thank you!!
OMG.... You are an Angel. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have thrown so many prints away because my new printer has resume but prints offset for some reason. So I just followed your steps and watching it now. Seems to be back on track. Your AWESOME!!!. :D
thats pretty neat however if you are using the usb connection to a computer and using the slicer itself its much more simpler all you have to do is simply drag the print model down through the virtual build plate grid where your printer left off on the print and then finish it that way and then weld it together ! it saved my life so many times !
YESS you saved my SUPER long print that jammed like 8h in. THANK YOU. Your explanation was so simple I was able to understand how to do this.
I was making a big print as a Christmas present and let it print overnight. Sometime during the night, our power flickered. I did have a resume function but unfortunately, something happened where it thought it was starting lower down the print. Devastated, I completely restarted the print which caused me to cut it close on filament and time. Now I know how to fix this in the future! Thanks so much!
Hi Emily,
FYI, your printer starts up with a very slow "default speed". If you want to change the speed, you need to send an "Fxxxx" with the move-Gcode. The standard slicer output contains that somewhere or even regularly (if it needs to change speed a lot).
So just look for "Fxxxx commands, pick one of the highest numbers and use that. Your printer is probably capable of doing that speed. Or, as you did.. .just wait it out... :-)
Worked perfectly for me, the only addional step i had to do was ajust the z offset, because it started wacking it, and i reajusted it every 2 layers. Awesome thanks.
Thank you so much! It’s midnight and my silly butt clicked stop print instead of pause. Your tutorial made navigating G code so easy.
Thank you very much, Emily. You saved my 3D print. I’m recommending your channel here in Brazil.
Notepad isn’t good at handling large files, so if anyone has a super large gcode file, using a professional text editor like UltraEdit, Visual Studio or any text editor you find useful will resolve the issue. If not, try another until it doesn’t crash or lockup the editor’s process. Also, depending on your computer’s global settings, saving a file with another extension besides txt, still lead to a file with txt on the end of what you chose. First of all, if your explorer settings are set to “hide extensions of known file types” then it can mislead you to believe you have an extension other than the true value. Turn that setting off and then use rename if you see something that isn’t supposed to be there.
Great video to the OP, you just taught a career software engineer something.
Thank you so much from India for this video I'll never forget the tutorial as it fitted in my mind...thanks again 😁😁
You’re really the goat fr. I wasn’t understanding it at all until I found this video, and now I’m back in business lmao. Sheesh this was stressful😂
I was printing a real size skull, 48hrs to print, there was a power cut in the middle of the night and for some reason the resume function was not working, got stuck in 68%, your video saved my print thanks!
Emily, thank you. You saved me roughly 11 hours. I am grateful.
OMG I have a a print running for 22 hours and the filament snagged. I just asked my wife I wonder if there is a way to continue and boom your video popped up. Thank you so much for saving me more wasted time and money.😊
Emily, you are amazing with the way you describe and show the way with printing. I have had a print going for 35 hours and I got a nozzle clogging, but unfortunately for me it's not the case with Elegoo Neptune Max 3's as the Z home is in the middle of the plate and despite all my efforts I can't see away around it to continue with this particular video. real shame as I was really hopeful to get it back on track. Still keep up the amazing work.
OMG!!!! Thank You So Much!!! I LOVE YOU!!!! I think you, Franklybuilt and Crashworks should come together and open a 3D printing academy! I would literally pay to take online classes from you guys!
This is a valuable video. I have used this several times to save my print.
My 6hr print stop had a nozzle clog and just did exactly what you did and I saved my print. Thanks
Thanks Emily, I just started with 3D printing with an ender 5 pro. I had twice an issue that the print was not completed. For the printer it was but I think it was a feeding problem. The filament got stuck in the guidance tube. Don’t know why yet as the print was completed for 80 procent. But with this help at least I solved the feed issue again and can complete the job🎉
Your second technique(my preferred btw) worked perfectly! You totally saved me a couple hours in not having to re-print!! I saved this video just in case I needed it someday and low and behold that day was today lol. Thank you Emily!
This is better explained than CNC Kitchen's video, I just came from there super confused. So thanks for the help and the great video!
IT HELPS me alot, I was stuck in a middle of a print and now YOU save me with it
YOOOOOOOO! ITS WORKING! Huge thanks!
you have the best video so far for a fix, auto resume also i know doesnt exist in prusa slicer if you turn it off to sleep for the night
Love the video worked out pretty good first time ever 3D printing last night and followed your steps it came out pretty well
I was on my second failed version of a day-long print, I wished I saw this video the first time. Anyways, thanks for helping me finally learn how to resume a failed print!
THANK YOU!!!!! Your video was clear, concise, and saved me HOURS of frustration. Great job!
Thanks alot! First time messing with GCODE and it worked and saved my print.
Great quick easy explanation will definitely save time and money thank you for your continued hard work!
Wife started 3D printing, ran into this issue, easy to follow and quick ! TYVM, subbed (:
Decided to check this out after a 35 hour fail. Will definitely do this in the future! Thanks.
Very helpful. Thank you. Also, goto folder options and uncheck 'Hide extensions for known file typres'. Now you can see your file extensions.
Veryyyyy niiiiice thank Youuuuu!!! Helped me a lot when I had to stop my printer for transportation ☺️🙏
thank you soooo much I already had given up, you saved me hours of printing and a lot of PLA, just a suggestion since i have a different printer, I suggest to put a simple command defining the height before resuming so there won't be an unwanted collision between the extruder and the printed piece
THANK YOU! Even though my project is for a CNC machine, your information helped me more than you know! THANK YOU!!!!!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you for making this video. I am a true now this when it comes to 3D printing and I'm super glad that you have this video out there for everybody to look at. I was into day one of my 1-day and 15-hour print. When I knew that I was going to run out of filament and I didn't have the correct color to continue. So I found the right color waited two days to get it while my print was on the heated head for 2 days and as of this moment it is resuming the print exactly the way that you talk us. Again thank you so very much. One of the questions I did have there was a g92 code and I believe I removed it because I felt like it would give me a problem and I won't know if it did or get because I was lol. Regardless thank you so much again!!!
That was easier then what others said, thanks, I didn't have a huge print, but it was a 3day one and this was so simple
Nice tip! I'm a bit worried about layers not fusing correctly after prior work had some time to cool down, making the whole thing more likely to break, especially when using little infill or if layer shift is significant.
worked like a charm, I'm using a modded ender 3 max, the code is a little different for the start up, but this worked perfectly, thank you for saving my 22 hour print
Can't thank you enough! You've really recovered so many prints out there.
U are amazing!! You saved me $40 and 30+ hours into my 52 in print…also I have auto resume on my sidewinder x1 but it resumed in the air way away from model
Thank you so much for this. Code these days looks a little different. (At least mine does using Prusa slicer) but you definitely got me in the right ballpark and with the help of Chat GPT, I was able to rescue my failed print! Thank you so much!
Omg, I had just started watching your awesome silly videos a week ago, and subscribed! Coincidentally, I came back to you today because of a failed jumbo axolotl I was printing! I am so thankful for this video, and I am currently trying it! Will update if it works :D
New skill unlocked-marlwin now knows how to save failed prints 😂
Appreciate it. This saved my senior design project
THANK YOU! I was printing my son a charizard for his birthday and the filament got tied up when it was 87% done and I was asleep. I'm now able to complete it before he gets home from school and won't have to worry about the waste that could have been.
thank you so much, just had a 15 hr print fail, no more reprinting entire fail prints that may arise
thank you for savin' my print you deserve a subscribe!
My first spaghetti print was the 5th one on a new ender 3 v3 se today, at the last 5-10%. So far so good following your instructions, hope this works since I'm a total noob at 3d printing but it's fun. Can't let fails get me down early on
Thanks! I'm new to printing and have a very long print on 4 pieces, and I don't feel comfortable leaving the printer unattended over night. I'll give this a try.
Great step through. I had one issue though. I accidentally deleted out M83 (relative extrusion mode), so it defaulted to M82 (absolute extrusion mode), and my printer could not extrude using the jerky M82 code. So to anyone about to do this, be sure M83 is not hidden amongst your homing code, and if it is, don't delete it! Or you'll be scratching your head wondering why it won't extrude right.
Vert well explained! So much better than so many other videos! :)
I recently got into this 3D printing world and this happened to me few minutes ago.
My ender was 80% into a 26hrs print.
I just went for a coffee and when I came back, surprise surprise...there was no more filament coming out of the nozzle, the spool had plenty of it thou, it just stopped coming out of the nozzle.
Anyways, I ended up starting from scratch because the print failed exactly on a detailed face, and I didn't want the layer shift there to be seen.
Also the print had some supports on the sides and, I already took it off the bed :) lol
I guess you pay to learn.
However, I will definitely do this if it ever happens again. Much appreciated for the info, thanks!
Really helpful thank you.Just started 3d printing and need all the help I can get.
👍
Good info. I appreciate your time spent creating this tutorial.
Thank you so much, just saved my 4 day print where my filament snapped over night
great explanation, thank you. Someday I'll figure out my runout sensor and this won't be a problem lol.
You fulfilled a dream I had as a child. Iron Man is my favorite Marvel character. Congratulations and keep going.
Thanks Emily! Keep up the good work!
Those with an Ender3-v2 "autohome" or printers that homes at the center. If you're using a stock thick glass build plate, take off the clips beforehand and take note on position of build plate before moving.
Autohome printer and slide the build plate so nozzle/sensor homes on a corner of the plate away from your print and keeping the same thickness of plate. Not zeroing on your print itself!
After autohome disable stepper and move nozzle above your print, get the z code height number from "moving" and continue your print just how she shows you with said number. Doing this you dont have to account and do extra math for it autohoming on the print or even worse in my case, an infill pattern hole depth while AND resetting home on build plate. This should help if you dont have micrometer to get better measurments of depth like i had to. Put backbuild plate as best to the position it was before and youll have a small layer shift and a saved print.
You saved my very first 3-D print! Thank you so much
You are a lifesaver! Subbed! Easy to understand & concise!