Mark you are an amazing teacher. I am 25 and deeply interested in old rigs and I’ve learned so much from watching the first episode of LBL only a week after it came out. I look forward to every video and I hate when you say “less talk more work” because you are teaching us young guys SO much! Great job! -Pittsburgh PA
Kicking back after a day of driving trucks in Western Australia. Appreciate the content, and because of you I now look at the old Mack and Western Star they use for yard work as potential projects. I keep meaning to take some pics to show you. The Mack is nice, but the Western Star has taken my eye with its pressed stud red interior and fantastic shape. Funny how it all works. I was born in Canada, live in Australia and am now driving a FH Volvo 12 speed. The world really ain't that big after all...
Quick tip when painting tip with rivets. When priming or painting do the rivets first with a few dust coats before doing your preferred spray methods. If not the rivets will suck up the paint and run out the bottom if you don’t pre coat them. Learned the hard way painting Airplanes and equipment in the Air Force years ago. 😂
You've got the right idea for the body prep work. The roof cap holes that are bigger, use a little chop mat and resin from the inside, on the outside over the patch, some Duraglass, lightweight filler, then the high build. As far as the bare metal stuff, definitely start with etch primer, then some heavier coats of high build. Use a block and sand in an 'X' pattern to keep the surface as flat as possible. For areas around edges and ones you cant use the block for, the proper grit scotch brite pad is what you want. Use a guide coat over the top of your primer when blocking to show the high and low spots. Should work out just fine, just take your time and don't rush. The end result in your paint has to do with the amount of time and detail you put into the prep. That's the most important part of bodywork. Good episode, love the stack covers. Pretty slick product and definitely better than buckets. Always a treat to see more work on my favorite truck going!!! Cheers man!👍👍
Awesome video Mark the new shop area is looking good and on the back of snowman you can even notice the patch Jobs once you primed it thumbs up and shared great job 👍
Put a disposable glove on your hand. Keep your fingers straight why putting a slight pressure on the panel. Chase your finger nails with your palm and look away or shut your eyes and let your flat hand tell you what's going on. The disposable glove makes everything feel the same texture helping a newbee feel the highs and low but do not look at the panel as your eyes will tell you one thing and your palm another. If you are right handed use your left hand for feeling panels. I hope this all make sense.
Hey, just a quick tip from a 30 + year body guy... - and apologies in advance if someone before me has mentioned this ) but... don't mix your stuff on cardboard ( fillers, etc ) the cardboard wicks away a bunch of the resins and oils in that stuff and it wont go on right. Go to a body supply store and get a mixing board, or I just used to use an old piece of sheet metal, scraped down and kept clean. Projects looking great!!!! Always love the videos!! inspired me to do my own thing on here.
@@Daves_adventures4315 I found him early in the pandemic myself and I actually got to binge a lot of the first videos which was really nice. Seen every video.
@@Daves_adventures4315 I follow Ezra too. Same with 2stroker. There's also another Canadian guy called Peterbilt Mike who bought himself a lovely K100 Aerodyne.
Talk to a truck painter . Paint the cab , sleeper and hood at the same time but separated will turn out better in the end. When I had my 379 painted they removed all the bottom hucks and did the body work then rehucked so corrosion didn’t come from underneath.
I replaced my horns on my 88’ freightliner and the mounting flanges were different so I had to re-drill all new holes and weld up the old holes. I used a Hobart 140 mig welder with 5356 .030 aluminum wire with argon to fill in holes. NO SPOOL GUN!! Turn the heat all the way down and wire speed up!!! Also go up one size on your tip. I went .030 wire with .035 tip. Good practice is to test on a spare piece of aluminum the same thickness before welding on your cab. I put a piece of copper on the inside of the cab covering the hole so you don’t blow out a bigger hole. The weld will not stick to the copper. This is a must when welding holes up to keep from blowing the hole out bigger and keeping the warpage down. Also works the same on steel. A tig or spool gun is recommended as aluminum shavings will gather in your lining over a long period of time doing it this way. I smoothed out the weld with a flap wheel and you would never notice that there was a hole there. Oh yeah I did sand around the hole and cleaned with acetone before welding. However fiberglass and epoxies works too. Nice work and I’ve enjoyed watching the progress even though I’m a flc120 guy😁 Lol...
Should look at a used lift for your new shop man! its a game changer being able to work on something at waist height, or being able to get under the truck while on a rolling stool.
Such a inspiration to so many people snowman little by little and now the cabover all coming along beautifully keep up the amazing work twin keep rockin and workin and dont forget KEEP ROLLIN COAL!!!
Been watching you for a very long time and yes I am a subscriber and always thumbs way up just can't wait to see Snowman done up wright you might be able to get with the guy's that do the Snowman's run to benefit wounded veterans that would be awesome anyways keep up the great work bringing back the legendary Snowman's truck !!
I am by no means an expert at anything, but one thing have learned from my autobody class and personal experience is that autobody is really about feeling the panel because any imperfections that you can feel before you paint, you’re gonna see ‘em. But overall, Snowman is coming together nicely and great job on all the content you put out!
On glassing the roof. Grind it down, tape the back side and layer the glass then do the body work over the top. I've been doing glass truck parts for 25 years
Hey mark. A little rubbing compound on them plastic roof cab lenses will clean them up very quickly. Could even go as far as using 3000 grit paper and some water to wet sand it then polish it.
Well nice to see the shop area is getting ready to go,lots of work to get there but it all takes time ,kind of amazing how much red tape and permits are required to put up a little shop on your property isn't it... and then there will be all the inspections from grade to framing and on and on and on...lol, but hopefully it all goes smooth I sure hope you managed to secure you lumber before the costs went thru the roof or you might have the only million dollar shop in he neighbourhood ( not the actual shop just the lumber for it.. ....kidding of course ) Next most expensive thing is concrete...who knew... I know the old air horns were a little smaller but I don't mind the size of the new ones from the on the hunt episode, hey they go with the bigger stacks... and once they are up there they will look sharp bet on it. Love work on vehicles and what not don mind i at all, always always hated body work when it comes down to the sanding and prep.... time consuming, dusty, dirty work and of course i can be a tad tedious at time, never been a fav of mine to do, but nothing wrong with trying out on a section and getting used to it and learning the inas and out, my Dad had me doing that on some of the junker car part( doors , hoods fenders 0 that had some damage or needed work and showed me thing and then let me have at them to practice and learn on and then try what I learned out on some of his project he was working on with him, hey got to learn somehow and nothing wrong with that Progress made, shop prep coming along and yeah your no that far from 100k subs....Did you ever think your love for old iron would get such a cult following from other fans of old iron.... I dont know but it's pretty dang cool if you ask me
If you want air conditioning and you do not want a condenser visible there is multiple options to solve that problem. You could mount a condenser under the bunk or cab and use a high volume electric fan. Evercoat makes 2 really good products for dealing with rough panels. Slick Sand is a spray filler that mills up thick. They make wet da sanders which work good for metal finishing.
Good morning Mr Twinsticks✌️🇺🇸🇨🇦 SALUTE...now if you'll excuse me I gotta get back to my favorite regular schedule programming on Twinsticks TV 😉🤘***Ole county boy from Perryville Missouri***
when you think you have everything good in primer, you can do whats called a guide coat. lightly mist some spray paint on your primer in a contrasting color (generally black on a gray primer but seems how your primer is black you can use white doesn't matter as long as it is a contrasting color) then do your final block sanding, i like to block out to 400 before base clear. but your block it out till all your contrasting color is gone and that will show you very easily where all your flaws and high/low spots pin holes ect. go around an use spot glazing putty and a bit more primer ect till you get it perfect. paint hides nothing if anything it makes any flaws 100x more noticeable once you have a shiny Finnish. oh and early congrats on 100k getting close that's awesome 👍👍
It’s truly inspiring the passion you have and the knowledge you share Mark , I love watching your videos and even though I’ve grown up in trucks I still learn something from every new video , keep up the great work . Cant wait for the iron duke to start 👍
Grind a bit of the fiberglass about 1" around the hole, tape the hole from the bottom to keep new fiberglass from falling in, and patch hole with pieces of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.
Oh Happy Thursday and another Project Snowman video. Truck is coming along nicely Mark. Getting closer to that 100K subscribers and bring the Duke home.
G’day Mark, luv ya work as always, I got a bit of chuckle from the little Deer 🦌 Whistle ya pulled off, we have or had the same thing in Australia called a “Shu Roo” and it repelled Roo’s as good I’d say as it did Deer or didn’t, anyway All the Best Olemate 🇦🇺
Mark, I'm so exited for the future shop! Funny story. On the opening to this video, when you made the horn go off, my Yorkie jumped off of the bed and ran into the living room. It scared her. Horn sounds awesome.
For your weathered fiberglass, clean the hole or crack, then treat with CPES. It'll wick right into any fracture or separation. Wash with water when cured, rough up with 80 grit and add your fiberglass patch as needed. S Glass and good polyester resin if you are comfortable with that system ... If Acetone and hydrogen peroxide are not your thing, use all epoxy system which cleans up with denatured alcohol and is much easier on skin and lungs. Anytime you allow epoxy to cure completely it will amine blush. It washes right off with water before sanding, grinding, or overlaying.
It's been my experience that if you want paint to stick to metal, you never want to sand the metal smooth before you prime it, the same with bondo. That profile from blasting the metal is what you want to clean and prime over. Then after you get enough coats of the primer on it, you block sand the primer to get it smooth, then prime it some more and sand it some more until it's ready to paint with the finish coat of choice.
Mark, you can shorten the horns a little if you disassemble them off the manifold, you will see it is only clamped in together and can be trimmed down a little if it makes it better for the install. The diameter of the tube is pretty consistent for about 6 to 8 inches and makes it possible to shorten them a little fyi.
I save a ton of money doing my own mechanic work and I give all that saved money to the body man. I hate body work. Don't have the patience for it. Glad you do.
A few things use a plastic or metal sheet to mix your filler (fiberglass/putty/etc) as cardboard will leach out the gardner and a few other things I can remember learning in Autobody. Rather than use a wire wheel if you're buying long boards and all the other tools get a body file. They are what's meant to knock filler down, then you can block it. To smooth out the body, after sandblasting so you're not doing multiple runs of high build, start with 80 then 120 and then 220. This should get most of the sandblasting pitting removed, then let the high build sit for a good few days before sanding with 220. You'll most likely need to do two coats as high build will sink after a bit of time unless its a pretty quality one (you should be able to come into Edmonton and find a body supply store that will sell Sikkens or RM high build, I'd use Sikkens but that's what I learned with). I haven't touched my body tools in almost 20 years, but if you need any questions answered I still remember most of the basics when I was a refinished.
Jerry reed is seeing this up there 👆 and he’s definitely smiling!
Yep!
I'm sure he is. Love Jerry reed. One cool cat. Back in the day. We had the best of everything. Much love
@@dustyfloyyd987 👍
Best comment
@@Ilovechocolatelabs 👍
Mark you are an amazing teacher. I am 25 and deeply interested in old rigs and I’ve learned so much from watching the first episode of LBL only a week after it came out. I look forward to every video and I hate when you say “less talk more work” because you are teaching us young guys SO much! Great job! -Pittsburgh PA
Well said Michael. Im 29, and i feel the same.
Feel the same, I'm itching to give it a shot but don't have the money or space.
Just finished watching Peg's dirty Detroit video and see a new TwinSticks upload. Gonna be a good day!
Good work Mark looking 👍
I mean...
This guy is nothing short than a superb artisan and he thinks, speaks and acts as a beautiful human being too. Keep on like this buddy
I still say a fantastic video would be of LBL hauling Iron Duke home…😉
Kicking back after a day of driving trucks in Western Australia. Appreciate the content, and because of you I now look at the old Mack and Western Star they use for yard work as potential projects. I keep meaning to take some pics to show you. The Mack is nice, but the Western Star has taken my eye with its pressed stud red interior and fantastic shape. Funny how it all works. I was born in Canada, live in Australia and am now driving a FH Volvo 12 speed. The world really ain't that big after all...
volvo it is bullshit.
Can’t wait to see all your trucks done. You do a great job. Keep up the work.
Don’t want them all done , be nothing to look forward too. Lol
@@christopherjohnson6056 they will never be finished. That’s the joy of projects 😂😂
@@christopherjohnson6056 Old iron means the work is never done.
damn son you are so close to 100k.......get er done :)
Epoxy the holes, then glass over it. It’ll be both solid and then when you sand the glass it will be smooth!
Yup.. add peel ply and no sanding required... but ya still need a bondable original surface... probly 80gr would be ok.
@@papirrinflaco72 I would have used a brad rivet or a pop rivet called a grip tite … no filler required..
Quick tip when painting tip with rivets. When priming or painting do the rivets first with a few dust coats before doing your preferred spray methods. If not the rivets will suck up the paint and run out the bottom if you don’t pre coat them. Learned the hard way painting Airplanes and equipment in the Air Force years ago. 😂
You've got the right idea for the body prep work. The roof cap holes that are bigger, use a little chop mat and resin from the inside, on the outside over the patch, some Duraglass, lightweight filler, then the high build. As far as the bare metal stuff, definitely start with etch primer, then some heavier coats of high build. Use a block and sand in an 'X' pattern to keep the surface as flat as possible. For areas around edges and ones you cant use the block for, the proper grit scotch brite pad is what you want. Use a guide coat over the top of your primer when blocking to show the high and low spots. Should work out just fine, just take your time and don't rush. The end result in your paint has to do with the amount of time and detail you put into the prep. That's the most important part of bodywork. Good episode, love the stack covers. Pretty slick product and definitely better than buckets. Always a treat to see more work on my favorite truck going!!! Cheers man!👍👍
The ⛄️ would be proud 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻 peg sent me over your mint AF bud keep doing what ur doing 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Man I'm excited for your shop. All three doors open different truck in each door.
Awesome video Mark the new shop area is looking good and on the back of snowman you can even notice the patch Jobs once you primed it thumbs up and shared great job 👍
Absolutely love the channel..I'm retired 33 years on the road you are doing what I would love to do ..keep the videos coming 👍👍
It's all in the prep work 💪
As Bob Ross would say, " we don't make mistakes, we just have happy little accidents "👌
Put a disposable glove on your hand. Keep your fingers straight why putting a slight pressure on the panel. Chase your finger nails with your palm and look away or shut your eyes and let your flat hand tell you what's going on. The disposable glove makes everything feel the same texture helping a newbee feel the highs and low but do not look at the panel as your eyes will tell you one thing and your palm another. If you are right handed use your left hand for feeling panels. I hope this all make sense.
I've always done that with drywall. No glove, but your hands knows what your eyes don't
Hey, just a quick tip from a 30 + year body guy... - and apologies in advance if someone before me has mentioned this ) but... don't mix your stuff on cardboard ( fillers, etc ) the cardboard wicks away a bunch of the resins and oils in that stuff and it wont go on right. Go to a body supply store and get a mixing board, or I just used to use an old piece of sheet metal, scraped down and kept clean. Projects looking great!!!! Always love the videos!! inspired me to do my own thing on here.
Honestly you're the best thing the algorithm recommended me during COVID. You're very close to 100k.
i found him through pegs channel
I was in Dallas and just searched truck restoration and he had just posted his 2nd video of LBL and am so glad I did!
@@Daves_adventures4315 I found him early in the pandemic myself and I actually got to binge a lot of the first videos which was really nice. Seen every video.
@@Perkelenaattori twin sticks, ezryder359, j.c. Smith, watch Wes work, south main auto, diesel creek and ol2 stroker all own me lol
@@Daves_adventures4315 I follow Ezra too. Same with 2stroker. There's also another Canadian guy called Peterbilt Mike who bought himself a lovely K100 Aerodyne.
You really need to put some paint on that primer mark, because the primer can get damp in it shouldn't be left like that 👍
I used my DeWalt 5'in random orbital sander 180 grit, 220 grit then 320 grit when I did my truck worked amazing.
That spot between the cab and sleeper is a great place to practice screwing things up. Everyone like share follow. 100k is coming
I just found your channel and have been binge watching snowman blue and duke
Beautiful ending...now if that doesn't warrant a SALUTE 🇺🇸🇨🇦 and a big ole 10-4 Roger that...then idk what does c'mon 👍
Never sand using your finger tips it makes highs and lows in your paint finish allways use a block when you can
Talk to a truck painter . Paint the cab , sleeper and hood at the same time but separated will turn out better in the end.
When I had my 379 painted they removed all the bottom hucks and did the body work then rehucked so corrosion didn’t come from underneath.
I replaced my horns on my 88’ freightliner and the mounting flanges were different so I had to re-drill all new holes and weld up the old holes.
I used a Hobart 140 mig welder with 5356 .030 aluminum wire with argon to fill in holes. NO SPOOL GUN!! Turn the heat all the way down and wire speed up!!! Also go up one size on your tip. I went .030 wire with .035 tip. Good practice is to test on a spare piece of aluminum the same thickness before welding on your cab. I put a piece of copper on the inside of the cab covering the hole so you don’t blow out a bigger hole. The weld will not stick to the copper. This is a must when welding holes up to keep from blowing the hole out bigger and keeping the warpage down. Also works the same on steel. A tig or spool gun is recommended as aluminum shavings will gather in your lining over a long period of time doing it this way. I smoothed out the weld with a flap wheel and you would never notice that there was a hole there. Oh yeah I did sand around the hole and cleaned with acetone before welding. However fiberglass and epoxies works too.
Nice work and I’ve enjoyed watching the progress even though I’m a flc120 guy😁 Lol...
Should look at a used lift for your new shop man! its a game changer being able to work on something at waist height, or being able to get under the truck while on a rolling stool.
I bought a used four post lift and yes it is definitely a game changer it cost me 1500+ installation and fix up the I did myself.
Maaan I love your old trucks and your show
Those long Grover's are sweet! Great sound to them!
Can't wait to see ur new shop being built
Such a inspiration to so many people snowman little by little and now the cabover all coming along beautifully keep up the amazing work twin keep rockin and workin and dont forget KEEP ROLLIN COAL!!!
Love your episodes, keep up the building!
That old Miller commercial was awesome. Also the gotee is fantastic keep it as long as the wife lets you.
Perfect timing..i was scrolling up and down to look something to watch
Love your attention to detail for the Snowman!!!
Definitely like the longer horns
The shop is gonna be great for all the future projects Mrs Twinsticks doesn’t need to know about! Lol
You don't need a lowboy to haul the Iron Duke home, just drive it
It looks more like B.J. and the Bear truck.
@@raywilson800 My thoughts as well, paint job matches as well. Then he also needs to make Sonny Pruit's KW
Be better to see little by little tow it home .
Been watching you for a very long time and yes I am a subscriber and always thumbs way up just can't wait to see Snowman done up wright you might be able to get with the guy's that do the Snowman's run to benefit wounded veterans that would be awesome anyways keep up the great work bringing back the legendary Snowman's truck !!
Equivalent but much easier is to use a orbital sander with your preferred grit of sand paper. Cheers !🇨🇦
When blasting Aluminum, like we did on airplanes, they used baking soda rather than sand, as a medium. Much softer blast.
Always looking forward to your videos..
I am by no means an expert at anything, but one thing have learned from my autobody class and personal experience is that autobody is really about feeling the panel because any imperfections that you can feel before you paint, you’re gonna see ‘em. But overall, Snowman is coming together nicely and great job on all the content you put out!
Really enjoy watching every video you put out keep up the good content 👍
On glassing the roof. Grind it down, tape the back side and layer the glass then do the body work over the top. I've been doing glass truck parts for 25 years
Hey mark. A little rubbing compound on them plastic roof cab lenses will clean them up very quickly. Could even go as far as using 3000 grit paper and some water to wet sand it then polish it.
Hell body work ain't no step for a stepper like you mr. Twin sticks.
Well nice to see the shop area is getting ready to go,lots of work to get there but it all takes time ,kind of amazing how much red tape and permits are required to put up a little shop on your property isn't it... and then there will be all the inspections from grade to framing and on and on and on...lol, but hopefully it all goes smooth I sure hope you managed to secure you lumber before the costs went thru the roof or you might have the only million dollar shop in he neighbourhood ( not the actual shop just the lumber for it.. ....kidding of course ) Next most expensive thing is concrete...who knew...
I know the old air horns were a little smaller but I don't mind the size of the new ones from the on the hunt episode, hey they go with the bigger stacks... and once they are up there they will look sharp bet on it.
Love work on vehicles and what not don mind i at all, always always hated body work when it comes down to the sanding and prep.... time consuming, dusty, dirty work and of course i can be a tad tedious at time, never been a fav of mine to do, but nothing wrong with trying out on a section and getting used to it and learning the inas and out, my Dad had me doing that on some of the junker car part( doors , hoods fenders 0 that had some damage or needed work and showed me thing and then let me have at them to practice and learn on and then try what I learned out on some of his project he was working on with him, hey got to learn somehow and nothing wrong with that
Progress made, shop prep coming along and yeah your no that far from 100k subs....Did you ever think your love for old iron would get such a cult following from other fans of old iron.... I dont know but it's pretty dang cool if you ask me
If you want air conditioning and you do not want a condenser visible there is multiple options to solve that problem. You could mount a condenser under the bunk or cab and use a high volume electric fan.
Evercoat makes 2 really good products for dealing with rough panels. Slick Sand is a spray filler that mills up thick. They make wet da sanders which work good for metal finishing.
Okay when you bring Duke home, haul it with LBL if possible to do so, definitely need to see a video of that!
Happy Canada day. Another great video.
Good morning Mr Twinsticks✌️🇺🇸🇨🇦 SALUTE...now if you'll excuse me I gotta get back to my favorite regular schedule programming on Twinsticks TV 😉🤘***Ole county boy from Perryville Missouri***
when you think you have everything good in primer, you can do whats called a guide coat. lightly mist some spray paint on your primer in a contrasting color (generally black on a gray primer but seems how your primer is black you can use white doesn't matter as long as it is a contrasting color) then do your final block sanding, i like to block out to 400 before base clear. but your block it out till all your contrasting color is gone and that will show you very easily where all your flaws and high/low spots pin holes ect. go around an use spot glazing putty and a bit more primer ect till you get it perfect. paint hides nothing if anything it makes any flaws 100x more noticeable once you have a shiny Finnish. oh and early congrats on 100k getting close that's awesome 👍👍
Keep up the good work brother, great video as always
Thank you for sharing your wonderful videos I would love to stay in Canada I am from South Africa
Looking like things are smoothing out.... The ground... The truck cab.... Bet the beer be smooth too Eh?! :D
Don’t forget period correct snow covers! Really enhances the tone…
Thursday is twins sticks day in my house loving the vid Mark thanks
Looking good!
Bout damn time Twin... shit man I needed my fix.
I like your video's but I like you working on your trucks the best great video and love project snowman
I love your videos man keep postin snowman videos I love them
It’s truly inspiring the passion you have and the knowledge you share Mark , I love watching your videos and even though I’ve grown up in trucks I still learn something from every new video , keep up the great work . Cant wait for the iron duke to start 👍
MGD is one of my favorites, sure do enjoy seeing these videos mister, it looks like nearly 100k others do too.
Great video buddy
Grind a bit of the fiberglass about 1" around the hole, tape the hole from the bottom to keep new fiberglass from falling in, and patch hole with pieces of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.
If you have fine holes in your filler after sanding, use stopping paste. Cracking video Mark, really starting to push forward now!
Oh Happy Thursday and another Project Snowman video. Truck is coming along nicely Mark. Getting closer to that 100K subscribers and bring the Duke home.
Those socks are cool!
G’day Mark, luv ya work as always, I got a bit of chuckle from the little Deer 🦌 Whistle ya pulled off, we have or had the same thing in Australia called a “Shu Roo” and it repelled Roo’s as good I’d say as it did Deer or didn’t, anyway All the Best Olemate 🇦🇺
Okay... I finally subscribed! Been watching all your videos for too long not to!
Ive watched his videos for a couple of years and finally subscribed about six months ago.
Pabst on the arm of the chair and Miller in the commercial. I go for cheap red wine!
the horn at first souded like th rubbber duck
Can't wait to see the finished project
Looking good. Keep up the great content. Rig looks like its gonna come out awesome.
Way cool. Time for a cold snack. You've worked hard today. Time for a break.
Great work keep it up
Mark, I'm so exited for the future shop!
Funny story. On the opening to this video, when you made the horn go off, my Yorkie jumped off of the bed and ran into the living room. It scared her. Horn sounds awesome.
Omg my yorkiepoo did the same thing 😄
Happy Canada day!
For your weathered fiberglass, clean the hole or crack, then treat with CPES. It'll wick right into any fracture or separation. Wash with water when cured, rough up with 80 grit and add your fiberglass patch as needed. S Glass and good polyester resin if you are comfortable with that system ...
If Acetone and hydrogen peroxide are not your thing, use all epoxy system which cleans up with denatured alcohol and is much easier on skin and lungs. Anytime you allow epoxy to cure completely it will amine blush. It washes right off with water before sanding, grinding, or overlaying.
Claiming it's Miller Time while drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon Lol. Nice sounding horns Marc!
Pabst Blue Ribbon time doesn't have the same ring to it lol
@@TwinStix Just giving you a little ribbing buddy. This interior is going to be epic!
It's been my experience that if you want paint to stick to metal, you never want to sand the metal smooth before you prime it, the same with bondo. That profile from blasting the metal is what you want to clean and prime over. Then after you get enough coats of the primer on it, you block sand the primer to get it smooth, then prime it some more and sand it some more until it's ready to paint with the finish coat of choice.
Mark, you can shorten the horns a little if you disassemble them off the manifold, you will see it is only clamped in together and can be trimmed down a little if it makes it better for the install. The diameter of the tube is pretty consistent for about 6 to 8 inches and makes it possible to shorten them a little fyi.
Look forward to twin sticks every time.
The Chet and jerry 🥰
Man those pipes are awesome made that petercar some much nicer great job brother!!!!
Use glass mat and resin underneath. Then glass reinforced Bondo to fill holes. Top use the same Bondo, then spot putty and high build primer.
I save a ton of money doing my own mechanic work and I give all that saved money to the body man. I hate body work. Don't have the patience for it. Glad you do.
Your nearly going to finish up with a polished alloy cab 😎
Omg just put baby to sleep got a notification woohoo love your channel
Man I love these big horns!
A few things use a plastic or metal sheet to mix your filler (fiberglass/putty/etc) as cardboard will leach out the gardner and a few other things I can remember learning in Autobody.
Rather than use a wire wheel if you're buying long boards and all the other tools get a body file. They are what's meant to knock filler down, then you can block it.
To smooth out the body, after sandblasting so you're not doing multiple runs of high build, start with 80 then 120 and then 220. This should get most of the sandblasting pitting removed, then let the high build sit for a good few days before sanding with 220. You'll most likely need to do two coats as high build will sink after a bit of time unless its a pretty quality one (you should be able to come into Edmonton and find a body supply store that will sell Sikkens or RM high build, I'd use Sikkens but that's what I learned with).
I haven't touched my body tools in almost 20 years, but if you need any questions answered I still remember most of the basics when I was a refinished.
Subscribed, bring the third beauty home😁
Get you a little add on a/c unit like they use on hot rods. Lots of different styles and prices to choose from. Easy to install and almost invisible.
Transtar polyester high build primer. Will be smoother then black ice.
Shiny air horns nice work
My company has a jar with deer whistles sitting on the counter in dispatch so if you loose one you can replace it