@@alanosborne1947 Had the same problem with my clearance lights, the factory never sealed them. I replaced mine with led lights, over sealed the back of the light
I'm a retired RV tech who specialized in repairs such as you tackled. You done good. I would have added a couple of things like milling the cross bracing down and covering the whole nose with a very thin luan plywood and using a rubber undercoating at all seams before putting your aluminum sheeting on with construction adhesive, It may sound like an extra step but it turns the nose of your 5th wheel into a battering ram and helps prevent dents from low hanging branches.. Aluminum dents real easy especially where there is nothing supporting it but insulation.
Henry, wondering where are you located and if you’d be willing to help me I have a moldy fifth wheel and back wall we’ve taken off the back wall but the man is helping me and myself we have really no idea what we’re doing I’m in the Denver area
I've done this but used FRP panels instead. Much easier, less expensive and no worries about scratching up or denting panels. $32 at home depot for a 4x8 panel. No need for an s-channel bend, just butt up the 2 panels on a cross support and then screw down a metal trim piece and install the vinyl insert.
How is the FRP holding up after 2 years? Just interested because I wanted to use this the same way but manufacturer specs were against outdoor use due to weather
Great job man. It’s a never ending battle fixing these campers. If the manufacturers left out the fluff and focused on quality, we’d all have more time to enjoying camping instead of working on the trailer.
I've owned five different sailboats, and one nice travel trailer, and after 40 years of this I can tell you never never use silicone on a camper or a boat. Impossible to get it off, but even if you're able to do the impossible, that means you will have spent an enormous amount of time and effort at something that may never really give you a bond again. Butyl tape however is fantastic.
Always told my apprentices never put fasteners in your Mouth. They are Made in China.. Seems that was great advice in today's situation. It's gross dude!!! 😝
My husband and I are literally using this kind of like a template as we got an older camper and (thanks to your video) we realized what was wrong with ours. So this is beyond helpful. Thank you soooooo much.
Thanks for taking the time to share your work. I'm rebuilding the front end of an 81 Chevy RV. I was hoping you chalked around the 2 clearance lights you installed.
Hey guys just a tip if you ever have to cut a long line again in aluminum sheet you can take an axacto knife score a line 2 or 3 times then bend metal and it will snap a perfect line and its much cleaner , just a tip i do capping that way all the time and no wavy line from snips ...
I don't know what state you are in, but I hope I run into you if I ever need a serious RV repair. Your repair is obviously much better quality than I would have expected from a RV repair shop.
@@dmeyer6994 Laugh all you want, my experience in the past has been that many workers at some of the major RV shops were hill billy's at best. It is bad enough that RV's seem to all be made like crap from the start.
awesome job looks great but as far as cutting with tinsnips (they yellow ones) i'm glad you were using the correct color but if you don't cut all the way to the end of the snips and stop befor you will avoid the sharp hooks on the panel . so if you use the snips only 90 percent and then start cutting again it will be smoother.
Those clearance lights are a constant source of water leaks. You might want to put some sealant of some kind under them. Maybe use a led bulb and seal the lenses too. Great job- it looks awesome.
Okay.... so.... watched a few so called "delaminate" videos. 1:45 this guys already showing, step by step, how to start the repair. Bravo sir! And thanks for taking the time to do things right! 👍
Thank you for exposing the structure of these campers. The sealing of the seam @7:20 is helping me with another unrelated problem. Thank you for making this video.
Fantastic video! Thanks! I'm going to pull the front of my trailer apart this fall and try to repair it. I was wondering how the supports were under the curve. Minimal I see! Nice to see that there wasn't any rot or water damage to the frame and insulation. Hopefully mine is the same. I'm wondering how the aluminum has held up? Does it still look good? I'm worried that getting aluminum light enough to bend into place means that it will also be light enough to get dented (or even punctured) by flying rocks during travel.
I am about to buy a very small RV trailer that I may have to repair its front cap and front portions of the sides that adjoin to the front cap. The exterior skin is delaminating like this and has bubbles. I'm thinking of buying 2' by 10' corrugated metal from a hardware store and bolting them thru the front every 16" or so. Then on the seams I'm going to cover them and the bolt heads with white EDPM "eternabond" tape. Will this work as a permanent fix if done meticulously?
As you install the metal on the sides, that is also supposed to be tack stapled. They only hold the metal until you put the cap rail on. I am impressed that the cap rail conformed to that major curve without the tool they make to bend j-rail. Nice repair overall. Where did you get your metal? I’m on the East coast and so far can’t find a local camper/metal supplier.
Why didnt you put the 1/4" plywood on first then glue the fiberglass panel to it and roll out all the wrinkles? Ive never done any of this but just wondering since you did have some material attached when you removed the panel. I enjoyed your video. Thanks for making it.
I think you experienced problems fitting the panel in because the screws were there, so my comment was dead on. I’m not trying to be critical but we all learn from each other, thanks
I have opened up my camper front and repaired the wood. I am having problems finding the metal and someone that will bend it for me. What I have found, the fabricator will not bend because he believes it will crack and break. Can anyone tell me what grade of aluminum was used for this project?
Nice repair job. The RV industry really needs to step up on the quality and durability of their products. Flimsy short lifespan designs rob the consumer of their investment.
Can you buy the trim by itself that you put the insert into? On the corners of my camper where it transitions to that diamond plate stuff the aluminum trim is bent allowing water inside the corners.
Thanks Norm! That was our plan going into it, we wanted to do something that would turn out to be a better finished product than the RV dealer option. If it holds up over time we will have succeeded. So far, so good. Thanks for watching!
Nice Job! When triming the aluminum. You can do a much nicer job by using double stick tap on a thin 1 by for straight edge. Use a trim router with a bearing to ride against straight edge. Will also work on fiberglass. Cuts like butter and True! Also use this fiberglass wheel on grinder to cut those side trim moldings. I also suggest that one puts caulking under the side edges to make contact with wood and underside of aluminum. Can never seal enough. If you squeeze some caulking into that seam where your sliding the flat piece into. It will lube it so they slide together instead of prying it apart. Good job, just some ideas for others. I work with these and know these methods to work well.
Wow! You guys are brave! That's something we would be a little afraid to tackle. Yet again, we're not the handiest of people. But this RV life is definitely teaching us to be. lol It looks great! I'm sure it's even stronger now. Great job!
Great video. Never thought that sheet aluminum in place of the Filon would give you such a great result. If/when my camper delaminates at least I now have an idea on how to address the problem.
So well done that I used your video to do the same to my trailer. I just finished and It took a total of 3 days to complete and am very pleased with outcome. I to used aluminum as it was easy to acquire with the sizes and the "S" pockets I needed.
Thanks for sharing. I'm at the start of a reno myself, and this was helpful. Quick question, though, Why did you tuck the new sheet UNDER the old at the bottom? The water has a greater chance of infiltration. Whereas if you had attached it on top of the old bottom section like was originally done, the water would have wicked more normally.
Right, that was my exact same question. I don't quite get it why they put so much time and efforts in doing that spectacular fix without thinking about something that basic...
WOW! Y'all were brave! You did a great job! I'm a new subscriber. Ran across you maybe 6-8 mos ago. I had you video page opened to get some background and get a feel for your channel. Hubby closed down my browser and I couldn't remember you name. I have watched loads of "Wandering" RUclips channels, trying to find you. I think you were around Crater Lake. Our oldest son lives out there. Just saw your video on the Congaree National Park in SC. I was born & raised in Columbia. Once your video started, I knew I had found you again! So this time I subscribed. LOL
Wow Chris! This was so interesting and I am sure helpful to anyone thinking about doing this. I didn't even know that this fix was possible. Clear explanations of the problem and the fix. Impressive. I wonder if you will choose either a decal of your own or leave it as is, either way will look good.
Thanks! I appreciate the kind words and we're relieved that it went well! Not sure about a decal yet, if we go that route I think we'll definitely do one of our own. Thanks for watching!!
Nice explanatory video. One thing I’d like to share to help viewers. On the seam you mentioned screwing it, you are supposed to staple it on. I’m not trying to be a know it all, but have been taking a vintage trailer restoration class and rebuilding a 1967 Trailblazer. There’s barely room for staples, but it may still work, but hoping they don’t rub through the top metal. Excellent video regardless
YOU GUYS ARE LIFESAVERS!!! Thanks a bunch i was completely terrified of this repair but my ol' copper canyon needs it now as well . Now thanks to you guys and gals I am ready to handle this project and get back on the road!! Thanks a million times again.
Hello, thank you for sharing your experiences, I am in the United States, I am Argentine and I want to travel and know, if you can detail the rules and documentation of a sprinter motorhome, from now on I am grateful, I use a translator I do not speak English, thank you
Good job folks, I battled that job on my 2005' class C 5 yrs ago when I bought it, one thing in the rebuild that is a must so everything falls into place is making sure that 1st sheet is square to the nose of the Rv and spaced correctly. I totally rebuilt mine alone I might add, and my placement was off, resulting in the angle trim not covering the side panels. my seam at the top gave way last fall, I've got it striped down and am going to add a 18"x 8' piece of aluminum sheet metal and screw it down, this should lessen the vibration that caused the failure.
I just baught a 5th wheel and every single wall is coming apart from out side and pop out also do you have a repair video for all that I'm really nervous about the pop out it been sitting out for 10yrs but camper way older than that I got it on the low price and jumped on it... inside looks good but most of the wood is rotten behind outside walls... hope this wasnt a mistake buying it.. oh and was all the stuff that you baught from camper place expensive or reasonable?
Am fixing to be making similar repairs to our towable but also think metal is much better than the fiberglass. It may not get hail or rock dents but Delamination is a huge problem with fiberglass and we don’t want to go through this particular repair again! My concern is cost for the metal though, that and y’all had an extra pair or 2 of hands. Hoping we can get it done. 😳
If you had it to do again, what changes would you make to this job? Grease or vaseline on the edge where you butted the 2 pieces? More supports? Maybe add a hitch light circuit? Use screws that won't react to the dissimilar metals (aluminum vs steel)? Overall, a nice fix to a rather nasty situation. Definitely wouldn't want to do that job alone. Any cut or bleeding fingers?
Very nice work! I would not get a new decal they typically can be a real headache with cracking, lifting, tearing and oxidizing etc. Have you thought about Eternabond tape on some of those seams? Peace & Happy Travels.
All I really need to know is... How far apart were your support 2x2s? What type of trim did you use on the edges, as well on to join to the roof/two panels/bottom? There are a million types of RV trim out there and I just need some help in the right direction. Thank you!
Nice! So your edge trim/molding on both sides at the end of the process ... you were able to bend it around the bull nose without the leg side (against the sidewall skins) kinking? If so, what is that product and where did you get it??
This is excellent work... you found a shop to make up those aluminum sheets for a retail customer! I have been practicing aluminum brazing, just for the hell of it as you never know.
We had our Class C over the cab repaired. I noticed right off that the paneling on the outside was not touching anything underneath. Now you clearly see where the material is sagging. When you put the panel back on did the insulating support the panel so it wouldn't start sagging?
Hi I would be interested as to know how that bottom seam has hold up in time, especially since it"s been placed on top of the panel instead of below. Has it been water tight?
I appreciate the video, I'm having the same issue with my 2005 Cougar travel trailer I have been trying to find the parts the top rail and the side trim pieces I called the local rv dealers and they told my trailer was too old they would be able to get the parts they said I needed to call Keystone or a vendor for Keystone . I called them they told me the trailer was too old they do not make parts after 5 year. I also been trying to find the aluminum white sheets I called a few metal supply companies and they do not stock it or if ordered would have to be a bulk order. So right I'm at a loss. Can you provide me information on were you purchased material or any suggestions would be appreciated. Not sure how old you trailer is or if you ran into the same issue
Good video, I have a trailer with this problem and am trying to find another trailer for a mother in law cottage. Most of the trailers in her price range have this issue. I have never taken one of the fiberglass skinned trailers apart before, so it was very informative to find out what supports or fails to support the end caps. I grew up with RV's in Florida that had lots of structural issues as a result of water intrusion and resulting rot. As a result of this experience, I bought a used 81 Airstream and repaired it. I figured less to rot in one. They are lower maintenance once you get one in shape and maintain it. They are not very roomy though.
Water runs down. I think you should have gone over the bottom not under. Very good job either way. Thanks
With the butyl tape it should be ok but yes ideally you are correct.
You might want to go back and seal those lights, that's where my 5th wheel leaked.
I agree BC5391 I was thinking the same thing no gasket or seal behind that light will cause big problem down the road!
@@alanosborne1947 Had the same problem with my clearance lights, the factory never sealed them. I replaced mine with led lights, over sealed the back of the light
Not a good idea to have tucked that panel second panel. Water will be directed inside and sit in there IF your seal cracks. So keep it sealed.
Earthbound
I used Liquid Nails behind flat side panel on my RV. Mistake.... sun heats panel, Liquid Nails turned gummy and swelled. Major re-do.
I'm a retired RV tech who specialized in repairs such as you tackled. You done good. I would have added a couple of things like milling the cross bracing down and covering the whole nose with a very thin luan plywood and using a rubber undercoating at all seams before putting your aluminum sheeting on with construction adhesive, It may sound like an extra step but it turns the nose of your 5th wheel into a battering ram and helps prevent dents from low hanging branches.. Aluminum dents real easy especially where there is nothing supporting it but insulation.
Henry, wondering where are you located and if you’d be willing to help me I have a moldy fifth wheel and back wall we’ve taken off the back wall but the man is helping me and myself we have really no idea what we’re doing I’m in the Denver area
I've done this but used FRP panels instead. Much easier, less expensive and no worries about scratching up or denting panels. $32 at home depot for a 4x8 panel. No need for an s-channel bend, just butt up the 2 panels on a cross support and then screw down a metal trim piece and install the vinyl insert.
How is the FRP holding up after 2 years? Just interested because I wanted to use this the same way but manufacturer specs were against outdoor use due to weather
Great job man.
It’s a never ending battle fixing these campers. If the manufacturers left out the fluff and focused on quality, we’d all have more time to enjoying camping instead of working on the trailer.
Hi there, where did you buy a sheets of metal with a flange?
Vital SMITH my question sorta too, he said they ordered it via the dealer they bought it from but my question was cost for the metal.
I've owned five different sailboats, and one nice travel trailer, and after 40 years of this I can tell you never never use silicone on a camper or a boat. Impossible to get it off, but even if you're able to do the impossible, that means you will have spent an enormous amount of time and effort at something that may never really give you a bond again. Butyl tape however is fantastic.
Two words for you to remember next time you do this “pocket screws” that is all.
Always told my apprentices never put fasteners in your Mouth.
They are Made in China..
Seems that was great advice in today's situation.
It's gross dude!!! 😝
The links no longer work. Anyone care to share the list of materials?
My husband and I are literally using this kind of like a template as we got an older camper and (thanks to your video) we realized what was wrong with ours. So this is beyond helpful. Thank you soooooo much.
Wow!! Gives us confidence to tackle repairs on our trailer ourselves, too.
Great job guys! Really appreciate all of the explanation of the process.
Thanks for taking the time to share your work. I'm rebuilding the front end of an 81 Chevy RV. I was hoping you chalked around the 2 clearance lights you installed.
your woman is absolutely gorgeous!!!
Wow that looks amazing! Thanks for the material list, it helps out a lot!
Hey guys just a tip if you ever have to cut a long line again in aluminum sheet you can take an axacto knife score a line 2 or 3 times then bend metal and it will snap a perfect line and its much cleaner , just a tip i do capping that way all the time and no wavy line from snips ...
I don't know what state you are in, but I hope I run into you if I ever need a serious RV repair. Your repair is obviously much better quality than I would have expected from a RV repair shop.
That's your idea of quality work?
Lmao
@@dmeyer6994 Laugh all you want, my experience in the past has been that many workers at some of the major RV shops were hill billy's at best. It is bad enough that RV's seem to all be made like crap from the start.
8:30 It was hard for me to watch when your naked eyeballs were 8" away from metal you were drilling.
I'd recommend applying the butyl tape to the backside of the trim. Then you pull the paper as you bend and fasten the trim in place.
That aluminum can get dents so easily...should have used fiberglass
awesome job looks great but as far as cutting with tinsnips (they yellow ones) i'm glad you were using the correct color but if you don't cut all the way to the end of the snips and stop befor you will avoid the sharp hooks on the panel . so if you use the snips only 90 percent and then start cutting again it will be smoother.
Those clearance lights are a constant source of water leaks. You might want to put some sealant of some kind under them. Maybe use a led bulb and seal the lenses too. Great job- it looks awesome.
Good tip, thanks!
I found that! You are absolutely correct.
Okay.... so.... watched a few so called "delaminate" videos. 1:45 this guys already showing, step by step, how to start the repair. Bravo sir! And thanks for taking the time to do things right! 👍
Thank you for exposing the structure of these campers. The sealing of the seam @7:20 is helping me with another unrelated problem. Thank you for making this video.
Fantastic video! Thanks! I'm going to pull the front of my trailer apart this fall and try to repair it. I was wondering how the supports were under the curve. Minimal I see! Nice to see that there wasn't any rot or water damage to the frame and insulation. Hopefully mine is the same. I'm wondering how the aluminum has held up? Does it still look good? I'm worried that getting aluminum light enough to bend into place means that it will also be light enough to get dented (or even punctured) by flying rocks during travel.
I am about to buy a very small RV trailer that I may have to repair its front cap and front portions of the sides that adjoin to the front cap. The exterior skin is delaminating like this and has bubbles.
I'm thinking of buying 2' by 10' corrugated metal from a hardware store and bolting them thru the front every 16" or so. Then on the seams I'm going to cover them and the bolt heads with white EDPM "eternabond" tape.
Will this work as a permanent fix if done meticulously?
As you install the metal on the sides, that is also supposed to be tack stapled. They only hold the metal until you put the cap rail on. I am impressed that the cap rail conformed to that major curve without the tool they make to bend j-rail. Nice repair overall. Where did you get your metal? I’m on the East coast and so far can’t find a local camper/metal supplier.
Why didnt you put the 1/4" plywood on first then glue the fiberglass panel to it and roll out all the wrinkles? Ive never done any of this but just wondering since you did have some material attached when you removed the panel. I enjoyed your video. Thanks for making it.
I think you experienced problems fitting the panel in because the screws were there, so my comment was dead on. I’m not trying to be critical but we all learn from each other, thanks
Your lower joint lap is wrong. NOW you are pushing any new leaking deep into you camper.
I have opened up my camper front and repaired the wood. I am having problems finding the metal and someone that will bend it for me. What I have found, the fabricator will not bend because he believes it will crack and break. Can anyone tell me what grade of aluminum was used for this project?
anyone doing this kind of repair, you would be better off replacing the insulation with ridgid R-max foam board it won't hold Moisture.
Nice repair job. The RV industry really needs to step up on the quality and durability of their products. Flimsy short lifespan designs rob the consumer of their investment.
Great insight - totally agree.
Great fix even if y didn't do it like was. Taught me what I need to do by the mistakes u made and now I know better so I really can't F #$k up now !
Can you please post your materials list again? I can’t find it and can’t seem to access your website. Many thanks!
Can you buy the trim by itself that you put the insert into? On the corners of my camper where it transitions to that diamond plate stuff the aluminum trim is bent allowing water inside the corners.
Good job, very well thought out and executed! I doubt an RV repair place would do as thorough a job.
Thanks Norm! That was our plan going into it, we wanted to do something that would turn out to be a better finished product than the RV dealer option. If it holds up over time we will have succeeded. So far, so good. Thanks for watching!
@@ToWanderFreely how is the front of the camper today, 2 yrs later?
great job. but I think I would have added some black vapor barrier. behind the panel just to be safe.
Why could you not use the front piece that you took off. And where did you find the aluminum? TIA!
Interested in learning how you started the process with the top cap? How did you secure it to the roof?
Nice Job! When triming the aluminum. You can do a much nicer job by using double stick tap on a thin 1 by for straight edge. Use a trim router with a bearing to ride against straight edge. Will also work on fiberglass. Cuts like butter and True! Also use this fiberglass wheel on grinder to cut those side trim moldings. I also suggest that one puts caulking under the side edges to make contact with wood and underside of aluminum. Can never seal enough. If you squeeze some caulking into that seam where your sliding the flat piece into. It will lube it so they slide together instead of prying it apart. Good job, just some ideas for others. I work with these and know these methods to work well.
Wow 😳 lots of work but happy you did it, good job...I’m sure you saved thousands...
Now you need to order a decal with your logo and stick it on the new front of your RV!
We've been thinking about it Mike! Just not sure yet. Thanks for watching!
Just like to say GOOD JOB! Great crew, wife and I truly enjoy your taking time to share your videos. Safe travels.
Pam & Jerry
Thanks, Pam & Jerry!
why did you replace with aluminum and not fiberglass like original?
Wow! You guys are brave! That's something we would be a little afraid to tackle. Yet again, we're not the handiest of people. But this RV life is definitely teaching us to be. lol It looks great! I'm sure it's even stronger now. Great job!
Great video. Never thought that sheet aluminum in place of the Filon would give you such a great result. If/when my camper delaminates at least I now have an idea on how to address the problem.
I've got this in my future, I'm afraid. Thanks taking this on yourself and showing me how.
did the option ever come up to clean the fiberglass and re-use it? thanks
So well done that I used your video to do the same to my trailer. I just finished and It took a total of 3 days to complete and am very pleased with outcome. I to used aluminum as it was easy to acquire with the sizes and the "S" pockets I needed.
a angle grinder with thin metal blade will make things easier, also for me at least putting the butel tape on the strip first does a better job
Well done Chris, et al. Are you going to get a new decal for the new front panel?
Thanks Gary! We thought about a new decal for the front, just not sure yet. Thanks for watching!
Where did you find the new metal trim pieces for the corners?
where did you purchase the aluminum panel from?
Thanks for sharing. I'm at the start of a reno myself, and this was helpful.
Quick question, though,
Why did you tuck the new sheet UNDER the old at the bottom? The water has a greater chance of infiltration. Whereas if you had attached it on top of the old bottom section like was originally done, the water would have wicked more normally.
Right, that was my exact same question. I don't quite get it why they put so much time and efforts in doing that spectacular fix without thinking about something that basic...
WOW! Y'all were brave! You did a great job!
I'm a new subscriber. Ran across you maybe 6-8 mos ago. I had you video page opened to get some background and get a feel for your channel. Hubby closed down my browser and I couldn't remember you name. I have watched loads of "Wandering" RUclips channels, trying to find you. I think you were around Crater Lake. Our oldest son lives out there. Just saw your video on the Congaree National Park in SC. I was born & raised in Columbia. Once your video started, I knew I had found you again! So this time I subscribed. LOL
It's been a journey for you to get here! So glad that you found us again and are on board this time around!! Thanks for watching!
Can't find your web pages?
Where/ how can I get the materials list?
Wow Chris! This was so interesting and I am sure helpful to anyone thinking about doing this. I didn't even know that this fix was possible. Clear explanations of the problem and the fix. Impressive. I wonder if you will choose either a decal of your own or leave it as is, either way will look good.
Thanks! I appreciate the kind words and we're relieved that it went well! Not sure about a decal yet, if we go that route I think we'll definitely do one of our own. Thanks for watching!!
Wow look so great. Good job have a great day!
Thank you!!
You guys are good! I think this is a job I would have a hard time tackling. Even so, I am interested in how this works.
Thanks Rock! It was fun figuring it out and seeing everything come together. Thanks for watching!
Wow, great job! I need to repair just a seal on front of our trailer. This helps.
Glad to hear it!
Nice explanatory video. One thing I’d like to share to help viewers. On the seam you mentioned screwing it, you are supposed to staple it on. I’m not trying to be a know it all, but have been taking a vintage trailer restoration class and rebuilding a 1967 Trailblazer. There’s barely room for staples, but it may still work, but hoping they don’t rub through the top metal. Excellent video regardless
YOU GUYS ARE LIFESAVERS!!! Thanks a bunch i was completely terrified of this repair but my ol' copper canyon needs it now as well . Now thanks to you guys and gals I am ready to handle this project and get back on the road!! Thanks a million times again.
wow!! bravo!!! thanks a lot for the video, i will start with the same job!! Saludos from Europe!!
Great repair,it is probably stronger now, than it was originally.
That was our hope and I think we accomplished it. Thanks for watching Davie!!
super good video < bravo!
Beautiful Job Sir.
One of the best How To Films I've seen GREAT JOB ! Except Chris kept using the wrong hand.....LOL. 🙃😊😁
Hello, thank you for sharing your experiences, I am in the United States, I am Argentine and I want to travel and know, if you can detail the rules and documentation of a sprinter motorhome, from now on I am grateful, I use a translator I do not speak English, thank you
Thankyou, so much for this helpful tips on rv repairs..you, make so, easy and very effective ways to make the repairs...budgeting our pockets too
you made it look easy!!! now I miss sugar sands. great video
Thanks! We miss Sugar Sands the day we leave that place!!
Good job folks, I battled that job on my 2005' class C 5 yrs ago when I bought it, one thing in the rebuild that is a must so everything falls into place is making sure that 1st sheet is square to the nose of the Rv and spaced correctly. I totally rebuilt mine alone I might add, and my placement was off, resulting in the angle trim not covering the side panels.
my seam at the top gave way last fall, I've got it striped down and am going to add a 18"x 8' piece of aluminum sheet metal and screw it down, this should lessen the vibration that caused the failure.
I just baught a 5th wheel and every single wall is coming apart from out side and pop out also do you have a repair video for all that I'm really nervous about the pop out it been sitting out for 10yrs but camper way older than that I got it on the low price and jumped on it... inside looks good but most of the wood is rotten behind outside walls... hope this wasnt a mistake buying it.. oh and was all the stuff that you baught from camper place expensive or reasonable?
Where did you purchase the side trim? Great video. Thanks. Having trouble accessing your website.
water proof 2x2's ?
Great job guys. Jen, no flip-flops when working on a project! Yikes, those little toes so exposed. Aunt Glady looks terrific.
Thanks Debbie, and good point about the flip flops!! Next time I'll be more construction site approved!! Thanks for watching!
Debbie Alix have to agree. And please use thick gloves next time. That aluminum sheeting is damn heavy and sharp.
Right on Kevin, thanks for the tip!
Am fixing to be making similar repairs to our towable but also think metal is much better than the fiberglass. It may not get hail or rock dents but Delamination is a huge problem with fiberglass and we don’t want to go through this particular repair again! My concern is cost for the metal though, that and y’all had an extra pair or 2 of hands. Hoping we can get it done. 😳
If you had it to do again, what changes would you make to this job? Grease or vaseline on the edge where you butted the 2 pieces? More supports? Maybe add a hitch light circuit? Use screws that won't react to the dissimilar metals (aluminum vs steel)? Overall, a nice fix to a rather nasty situation. Definitely wouldn't want to do that job alone. Any cut or bleeding fingers?
Very nice work! I would not get a new decal they typically can be a real headache with cracking, lifting, tearing and oxidizing etc. Have you thought about Eternabond tape on some of those seams? Peace & Happy Travels.
Just seeing your video enjoyed it where you get the aluminum sheets really need help.....help!!!
Wow, I am impressed! It looks great.
Thanks Carol!!
Nice job
All I really need to know is...
How far apart were your support 2x2s?
What type of trim did you use on the edges, as well on to join to the roof/two panels/bottom? There are a million types of RV trim out there and I just need some help in the right direction.
Thank you!
Nice! So your edge trim/molding on both sides at the end of the process ... you were able to bend it around the bull nose without the leg side (against the sidewall skins) kinking? If so, what is that product and where did you get it??
This is excellent work... you found a shop to make up those aluminum sheets for a retail customer! I have been practicing aluminum brazing, just for the hell of it as you never know.
Excellent job. Would it of been much more expensive with fiberglass and harder to work with?
We had our Class C over the cab repaired. I noticed right off that the paneling on the outside was not touching anything underneath. Now you clearly see where the material is sagging. When you put the panel back on did the insulating support the panel so it wouldn't start sagging?
Hi I would be interested as to know how that bottom seam has hold up in time, especially since it"s been placed on top of the panel instead of below. Has it been water tight?
Looks sharp!! Nicely done.
Thanks Scott!
I appreciate the video, I'm having the same issue with my 2005 Cougar travel trailer I have been trying to find the parts the top rail and the side trim pieces I called the local rv dealers and they told my trailer was too old they would be able to get the parts they said I needed to call Keystone or a vendor for Keystone . I called them they told me the trailer was too old they do not make parts after 5 year. I also been trying to find the aluminum white sheets I called a few metal supply companies and they do not stock it or if ordered would have to be a bulk order. So right I'm at a loss. Can you provide me information on were you purchased material or any suggestions would be appreciated. Not sure how old you trailer is or if you ran into the same issue
We should follow your instructions step by step !! Thanks !!
Good video, I have a trailer with this problem and am trying to find another trailer for a mother in law cottage. Most of the trailers in her price range have this issue. I have never taken one of the fiberglass skinned trailers apart before, so it was very informative to find out what supports or fails to support the end caps. I grew up with RV's in Florida that had lots of structural issues as a result of water intrusion and resulting rot. As a result of this experience, I bought a used 81 Airstream and repaired it. I figured less to rot in one. They are lower maintenance once you get one in shape and maintain it. They are not very roomy though.
fantastic video, it looks amazing.
Thanks!!
Great video. One question. Were there any issues with the side walls? Any delam or rot? That is what I am experiencing.
Whew, quite the project, good job😁
Thanks Sharrie!
Great video and great job with the repair.
FlyingFish28 Thank you!