Metal Etching - How To Do It At Home
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2024
- This is a kind of follow-up video to the Shake Pen video I uploaded recently. Onto the spring steel clip of the Shake Pen I etched a small symbol back then. As there were a lot of comments, asking how exactly this works and what this metal etching technique is, I decided to make a video about this process, explaining a little bit how I did it and what you need in general.
I'm not that much experienced with metal etching. I just dived into that subject for the Shake Pen project but I hope, that's an somewhat interesting video anyway.
This video is a little bit an experiment as I tried narrating the content for the first time. It's not hard to tell that I'm no native english speaker, but I tried my best. Let me know what you think about it in the comments. I will definitely not speak on every video, but perhaps sometimes when its more to explain in the video I will do in the future.
Link to the Shake Pen shown in the video: • Making a Shake Pen fro...
I really hope you enjoy this video, let me know what you think!
If you have questions or suggestions, write in the comments. I will read them all and try to reply.
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Links (no affiliation):
- Electrolyte, stencil, etching felt: www.schilling-marking.de/
- Brother stencil tapes named in the video: www.brother.de/search-results...
00:00 Intro
01:02 Electrical power source
01:47 Etching stamp and felt
02:31 Electrolyte
03:12 Etching stencil, different options
05:13 Preparing the stamp, power source and workpiece
06:20 Etching with DC power
07:40 Etching with AC power
08:20 Trying the toner tranfer paper stencil 
Наука
For a more durable etch, use an adjustable power supply with both AC and DC capabilities. Start with the DC for just a few moments to get depth and porosity to the surface, then switch to AC to colour in the surface. Bites deeper, lasts longer :)
Thanks for your comment and for your nice advice! Unfortunately the power supplies with AC and DC are really expensive. But it should work with two different power sources as well :)
How about use the DC power supply first, then connect the AC in turn? Edit: I suppose you said that already 😊
Great to hear your voice and sense if humor in this video. Keep it up!
Thanks for your feedback! I really do appreciate that!
Great video! I used Toner transfer earlier to make electronic pcbs and also to etch copper, but never tried any other metal. Thank you for showing this.
Thank you for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that! :)
thx a lot for clarifying, appreciated!
Thanks for your feedback!
For the transfer paper, make sure the metal is very clean with acetone, then use 275-300 F temperature on the iron. I do this with a t-shirt thermal press and it works nearly perfectly. Probably just leave the iron sitting for a couple of minutes.
Thank you for your kind advices! I will try it again :)
For cleaning... acetone is not eonough. It will left lot of greasey stuff just smeared.
Wash and rub with liquid AJAX for a few minutes. It will not only clean, but will "activate" surface (what ever this mean).
Do a water "wetting" test.
Check Dan Gelbart's clip: building prototypes part 6 - Coatings
@@bmalovic Thanks!
@@bmalovic since acetone is specifically used as a degreaser, I would be surprised if it only caused smearing unless the metal is very greasy, which would mean you need to use more acetone and/or rags. But water and soap should work as well, and less toxic.
@@bradthayer6782 I did not mention "only" :) It will clear a lot, but always there will be a residue.
Of course... you can use "method of infinite failed tries" :)
One tehnique, that is useed with silicone removers, in car paint shops, can give better results:
Use two rags. One soaked in degreaser, other dry. Wet with first, remove with other. Never use same patch of dry rag again. Only once.
Even then, some silicone will be transfered to the wet rag, and small amount will be transfered back to the part.
Not a soap. Not dish washer. Specificly semy liquid AJAX or some simmilar slightly abrasive product like Mr.Cleean (Mr.Propper). Different chemistry, plus mechanical action. Not sure what brand is available in specific market. This should be white, semiliquid "paste".
Tryed and prooved on some parts that need to be realy, but realy clean (anodizing, electroplating, bluing...).
I never get so good results with acetone, silicone remover, perhloretylene, paint thinner or any other degreaser.
Of course... not applicable in every situation, like highly polished parts.
Note on the laboratory power supply: Ohm law says: I=V/R, that means either you set the voltage, or the current, but you can't set both. In your video at 5:50, the power supply is in C.V, which probably means "Controlled Voltage", and the current settings is not used at all (it should not be needed to set 1Amp). If you press the "output" button, it will set "C.C" or "Controlled Current" and then the 1Amps will be applied.
Understanding a bit more from this etching process, I think the UV-sensitive ink used to etch PCBs (printed circuit board) could be used: The process usually is:
1) print the image on a transparent plastic
2) apply a very thin layer of UV-sensitive ink on the metal.
3) Put the printed layout on top of the metal, and use an UV lamp or direct sun light to apply UV (can take from few minutes to 1h depending how strong is the lamp).
4) Use a solution of sodium hydroxide and put the metal in it, the ink exposed to UV will disolve, while the rest will not (or the reverse depending on the ink type).
5) apply your acid with the graphite electrode
For the power supply i think you can set both. The output is set to cv the voltage is set to be 12v while the 1 amp will be used as the upper limit, so you can't have short circuit or big current flowing into the circuit.
Hi and thanks for your detailed comment! I thought I can set the maximum current flow with the 1A setting. I think if I had a much bigger logo to etch, the current flow would be much higher but I guess never higher than the number I set on the power supply. But I haven't tried to push the limit.
And thanks for the hint with the UV sensitive ink. I never thought about this. This sounds like a really great idea! Do you know if it is possible to directly make a stencil for electro etching without the step of the acid bath? Can you just wash away the access ink after UV hardening the parts you need and then etching with the electro etching stamp? If that is possible it would be like the toner transfer method but hopefully more reliable and easier to use :) Thank you very much for the great tip!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
There are almost any type of stencils to etch PCB, from inks, films, in negative or positivie, that can be washed out with water, acetone, etc.
If you search for "PCB etching dry film" you might find what's seems the easier for this usage (however, I never tried those).
As said, I am use to an type of ink that is reveladed with sodium hydroxide, and after etching, removed with acetone. It works perfectly for me, but the sodium hydroxide is a strong corrosive base which is hazardous and not that easy to find.
@@escain Thanks for the explanation! I will do some research on the uv ink.
roflol good one thats the shaking taken care of....this is a really good little etching system
Thanks for your kind comment!
The DC power etch looks deep and clean enough that you could maybe try applying some sort of lacquer in there? It'd be a different looking result from the AC power etch, but still possibly a good one depending on what you're going for?
Thanks for your comment! Yes, when you etch your design deep enough, you can fill it with some sort of lacquer I guess. You can really engrave deeply with the etching method.
This is fantastic to see. The toner transfer part in particular is something I've been looking for. Does anyone else know tricks to make the transfer easier? That would really help with labelling tools.
For copper pcbs it worked best for me with some magazine paper, then soap and water to remove the paper. For thin metal you could use a modified laminator.
Pre-crumpled 😅 Neat work though, thank you for sharing your process!
Thanks for your kind comment! :) The paper came in just a very thin plastic bag and wasn't well treated while shipping ;)
Sir, thank you for the video. When you use the cheap AC adapter, does it remove metal too with decent depth, or just make it black?
Good job! @ 0:45 you look just like me, trying to write before my 1st cup of coffee in the morning! ;)
Haha :D Thanks for your kind comment! :)
Thanks this is very useful, something I may try at some point. Much better than using number / letter stamps.
ATB...Dean
Thank you very much for your comment!
Great video, I really like this format with the narration!
Thank you very much for your feedback! I really do appreciate that. Perhaps I will do more narrated videos in the future.
great job!! in the toner transfer try to use magazine paper, y use it making pcb, transfer with the iron and remove it whit water.
Thanks for your comment! I've heard that you can use magazine paper too, but didn't try it. Perhaps this works better than the special toner transfer paper :) Thanks for the hint!
Hey,to me this way of printing the peace dove is great.I wish some body could sell all the products in one kit to make it ready for use.Thank you.
"but first: *shakeshakeshakeshakeshake*" LOL!
;)
I first saw these rigs on Brownells (to mark firearms parts) a few years ago, out of nowhere and wondered if they were an offshoot of DIY, or totally original, then started seeing DIY solutions on youtube later after that....
The wall wart is a DC power source. It converts AC power to DC, just in a smaller, fixed form factor. I think those wall warts aren't always straight forward on whether the barrel ID is positive or negative. I have a slight feeling that the polarity is reversed between the processes making the difference. It would be interesting to know if that makes the difference. Great content as always and thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your comment! You mean the wall wart I used for the second black etchint? It is an AC power source as you can read on the writing on it I showed in the video. The most ones are DC yes, but this is specifically an AC one. The AC is what makes the etching look so different. For etching with DC power the polarity has to be stricktly the way I showed in the video to actually remove metal as the ions just flow in one direction and that has to be from the metal to the etching stamp.
Aren't they both DC? Isn't that what the adapter does? Honest question.
hahahahaa shake, shake, shake! that caliper! hahahahaha
;)
Using a chemical solution for finish after ecthing called..BRASS BLACK..it makes the ecth markings Black..even on steel or Stainless steel too..Brass Black is used for changing the color of brass into a black finish..Cheers..
Thanks for your comment! As you see in the video, etching with AC power makes the etching deeply black on every material. No need to extra blacken it.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Yes indeed DC power for deep etching but then AC to blacken or a chem solution like brass black to have a nice finish..
@@agentcovert Yes, that would be the ultimate solution.
....the caliber..😅
;)
Regarding the toner transfer... YOU can do that better
That was really weird. I really have no idea what I made wrong. Too hot, too cold, too long, too short? It's definitely not an easy to use product... :(
Water with salt is a good electrolyte no need to buy.
Thanks for your comment! As I said in the video, you can use water and salt as an easy to get electrolyte but be cautious with the chloride gasses. They are quite toxic when inhalated.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter just open the window -the ammount of gasses is so little it wont do a thing to you.Even cyanide is not lethal in small dosage aka eating cherry .