I own 29 vintage bikes, English, German, Japanese and Italian and do 95% of all my maintenance. I have learned so many new tricks from watching the T160v "recommission!!! These videos are FANRASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Zloz
Thanks for making these videos Dave they really are terrific. If I may say so the charming young lady who does your voice over intro has the most delightful voice, could listen to it all day. Keep up the great work and thanks again.
Brilliant video Dave great tip with using a grease gun to push out the caliper piston I will remember that as I have some brakes to overhaul next week. Carry on the good work.
Interesting that you were able to service the brakes and save them from the bin. Most shops here no longer do any service work on brake parts, simply remove and replace. Love the old school way of doing things, Thanks again Dave for another great video!
Blimey, that takes me back. I started at AP Lockheed in 1987 ( it employed 8000 people at the time, down from the heady days of 14000 +) and took redundo in 1997 as the company was being raped by its management in the same way that Rover was. I'll suggest that in the final assembly of those and other calipers, master cylinders etc. for the rubber seals silicone grease was used as it keeps out the water and does not affect the rubber. Thanks for the video Dave, much appreciated
I've just done my front caliper and used metho in the master cylinder to push out the piston s , flushed out the old fluid etc, no mess, drains easily, assembled dry and rubber grease on stainless pistons I bought in the 80s , the old master was well knackered, aligning the cylinder was a pain, it's not a bad brake in its day I could chirp the front tyre when new, regards from aus
I like the way you use the grease gun to get the pistons out Dave ...👌 And I thought that rear master cylinder was toast with all that corrosion but you saved it .....👍
the idea to use grease to remove the caliper is brilliant and not so dangerous to the use of compressed air,excuse me for my english and good work from italy
I know i’ll never be able to do what you do, but it is like a meditation class seeing you work. It all starts from the friendly voice over explaining what you are about to do on each episode. Who’s voice is it?. You dedicate a lot of time and effort to share your knowledge. Sorry for the indiscrete question, but how do you make money out of it? You don’t advertise. It really feels like a labour of love.
Informative and great explanation as always! Can’t wait to get me my own workspace and older motorcycles. I’ve got a -99 and -16 nowadays. Cheers from Sweden.
Ah the grease gun method, I was so pleased when I discovered that method and now doing brake calipers hold no fear for me, although with my 'new' CB450 I have to deal with an early Honda one though with the old brake fluid turned to crystals, but we'll see how that goes in due course.
Fun fact, grease guns work well for pumping out other cylinders as well, used this method to remove a Track Tentioner Cylinder on a 450 Komatsu Excavator ( huge scale), i have also used air on brake cylinders if grease gun isnt available, just put a piece of wood between the pistons, so that when it shoots out it doesnt Mar it up, also keep your fingers clear.
By looking at the corrosion damage, it seems to me that this bike was submerged in water for some time. Or it was left outside in a wet climate for quite a long time. Water in the hydraulic fluid seems more like submerged. I'm glad that you found it when you did. It seems as tho it was getting close to the point of un-saveable. I know that this beautiful piece of engineering is in good hands.
With respect, your assumptions that the bikes been submerged in water are completely wrong. The bike has been in a garage ,and had not been outside open to the elements for a considerable period of time.
I just rebuilt the calipers and master cylinders on a 78 Triumph T140, which has the same brakes as this Trident. The metal retainer that holds the caliper seal in place is a real pain in the butt to get in place. I bent (and pretty much ruined) both of the rings I got from the kit. And I was careful. I had to use the olds ones, which fit perfectly. Frustrating. I wasn't going to order another kit, wait a week to get them and then probably bend those are well.
Any chance you've seen this issue before? "2014 Triumph Thruxton 900 low speed stutter" I have had a bike shop keep my bike for over a month in a half with no change. They installed British Customs pipes and a commander and that's when the issue started.
Coat your brake discs with WD40... Don't forget to clean it off before you hit the road. Unless you really want to hit the road, of course... As ever, listen to Uncle Dave!
Why bill,? rust on cast iron does not affect braking, rust appears o/night, get it rechromed if you want the new look . Or reverse electrolysis to remove all the chrome .PS, when you take the disc off the hub make sure you mark its position or else you will start a new wear pattern, discs have a run out to return the pads , done properly you can chirp the tyre.
Use silicone brake fluid and you’ll never have corrosion ever again, it last for donkeys years, it will not Damage your paint work, I’ve been using it for over 30 years in motorcycles and cars,with no problems. ⚙️🔩🔧👍
I own 29 vintage bikes, English, German, Japanese and Italian and do 95% of all my maintenance. I have learned so many new tricks from watching the T160v "recommission!!! These videos are FANRASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Zloz
The servicing of the Master Cylinder was masterfully done! Just glorious recommissioning.
Thanks for making these videos Dave they really are terrific. If I may say so the charming young lady who does your voice over intro has the most delightful voice, could listen to it all day. Keep up the great work and thanks again.
Look forward to this series every Sunday afternoon. Thanks Dave for sharing your expertise.
Really enjoy watching you Dave. Keep up the good work.
Brilliant video Dave great tip with using a grease gun to push out the caliper piston I will remember that as I have some brakes to overhaul next week. Carry on the good work.
Amazing that you got that master cylinder back - thought that was a gonner for sure.
Well done Dave. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge.
Fascinating breakdown 😁 interesting that you reassembled using copper slip on bolts rather than any variation of lock tight 👍
Great video! I’m old enough to remember when oil really was cheap, now it’s 10-15usd a quart for motorcycle oil.
Interesting that you were able to service the brakes and save them from the bin. Most shops here no longer do any service work on brake parts, simply remove and replace. Love the old school way of doing things, Thanks again Dave for another great video!
Blimey, that takes me back. I started at AP Lockheed in 1987 ( it employed 8000 people at the time, down from the heady days of 14000 +) and took redundo in 1997 as the company was being raped by its management in the same way that Rover was. I'll suggest that in the final assembly of those and other calipers, master cylinders etc. for the rubber seals silicone grease was used as it keeps out the water and does not affect the rubber. Thanks for the video Dave, much appreciated
Some really good tips here as always, thanks Dave.
Thank you for the great videos. I would love to see a series on a complete pre-unit gearbox rebuild with bushing replacement.
I've just done my front caliper and used metho in the master cylinder to push out the piston s , flushed out the old fluid etc, no mess, drains easily, assembled dry and rubber grease on stainless pistons I bought in the 80s , the old master was well knackered, aligning the cylinder was a pain, it's not a bad brake in its day I could chirp the front tyre when new, regards from aus
Very enjoyable and informative. Not to mention the faultless camerawork. An absolute pleasure to watch. Cheers!
Excellent video, nice to see someone able to take things to pieces and rebuild it. Really enjoying this series, thanks.
Bought a loaded LFH stainless master for my T140V. Fitted well, works well. Quality item.
Thanks it will help me with the caliper on my wife's bike
I like the way you use the grease gun to get the pistons out Dave ...👌 And I thought that rear master cylinder was toast with all that corrosion but you saved it .....👍
Think I've said before. Compressed air for removing braking pistons works for me. No wasted grease. Great watching as per usual 👍
Loving your videos
Really enjoy the common sense old school approach
Keep up the great work
Look forward to the next one
Nick
Yuors work´s are excellent. Thanks Dave, congratulations.
Brilliant, loving watching this series and learning some best practices. More of the same please 👍😀
If you partially install the dust seal retainer without the seal, then put the seal in place and tap the retainer down into place it goes much easier!
the idea to use grease to remove the caliper is brilliant and not so dangerous to the use of compressed air,excuse me for my english and good work from italy
Another great video. Thanks Dave.
Thanks for another great post Dave.
I look forward to this as well, thanks Dave very interesting, even though I don't have discs
I know i’ll never be able to do what you do, but it is like a meditation class seeing you work. It all starts from the friendly voice over explaining what you are about to do on each episode. Who’s voice is it?. You dedicate a lot of time and effort to share your knowledge. Sorry for the indiscrete question, but how do you make money out of it? You don’t advertise. It really feels like a labour of love.
Informative and great explanation as always! Can’t wait to get me my own workspace and older motorcycles. I’ve got a -99 and -16 nowadays.
Cheers from Sweden.
Thanks for sharing, another great video. 👍😃
Look forward to the next one...
I use an old master cylinder with a bit of braided hose for this job. I've never had one fail yet.👍🇬🇧
Ah the grease gun method, I was so pleased when I discovered that method and now doing brake calipers hold no fear for me, although with my 'new' CB450 I have to deal with an early Honda one though with the old brake fluid turned to crystals, but we'll see how that goes in due course.
Another great video! Thanks
Fun fact, grease guns work well for pumping out other cylinders as well, used this method to remove a Track Tentioner Cylinder on a 450 Komatsu Excavator ( huge scale), i have also used air on brake cylinders if grease gun isnt available, just put a piece of wood between the pistons, so that when it shoots out it doesnt Mar it up, also keep your fingers clear.
Thanks Dave, really useful & lots of useful tips, but I bet it won't go so smoothly when I try it.
Great stuff
Another great video from the master craftsman Dave
Very good the previous owner of my guzzi made a right mess of the pistons with grips
By looking at the corrosion damage, it seems to me that this bike was submerged in water for some time. Or it was left outside in a wet climate for quite a long time. Water in the hydraulic fluid seems more like submerged. I'm glad that you found it when you did. It seems as tho it was getting close to the point of un-saveable. I know that this beautiful piece of engineering is in good hands.
With respect, your assumptions that the bikes been submerged in water are completely wrong. The bike has been in a garage ,and had not been outside open to the elements for a considerable period of time.
I just rebuilt the calipers and master cylinders on a 78 Triumph T140, which has the same brakes as this Trident. The metal retainer that holds the caliper seal in place is a real pain in the butt to get in place. I bent (and pretty much ruined) both of the rings I got from the kit. And I was careful. I had to use the olds ones, which fit perfectly. Frustrating. I wasn't going to order another kit, wait a week to get them and then probably bend those are well.
Mechanical mastery.👍
Any chance you've seen this issue before? "2014 Triumph Thruxton 900 low speed stutter" I have had a bike shop keep my bike for over a month in a half with no change. They installed British Customs pipes and a commander and that's when the issue started.
Are the brakes interchangeable with those from the later 750 Bonneville? Would make things easier.
Is the bronze coloured stuff an anti-seize?
Great stuff. Spray the disc with W D 40. The disc won't rust, but that won't matter 'cos the bike won't stop. L. O. L.
Best way to clean a cast iron brake disk, is to ride the thing.
rear caliper was Nasty.
Green= copper?
Never owned a disc brake britbike
Coat your brake discs with WD40... Don't forget to clean it off before you hit the road. Unless you really want to hit the road, of course... As ever, listen to Uncle Dave!
Why bill,? rust on cast iron does not affect braking, rust appears o/night, get it rechromed if you want the new look . Or reverse electrolysis to remove all the chrome .PS, when you take the disc off the hub make sure you mark its position or else you will start a new wear pattern, discs have a run out to return the pads , done properly you can chirp the tyre.
Use silicone brake fluid and you’ll never have corrosion ever again, it last for donkeys years, it will not Damage your paint work, I’ve been using it for over 30 years in motorcycles and cars,with no problems. ⚙️🔩🔧👍
My advice is not to put your fingers in the coppaslip it might be carcinogenic. Apply it with a brush or other tool.👍🇬🇧