Creality CR-10 v2 Unboxing - Is this Creality's Best Value?
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
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Our Address:
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Telephone:
+1 (905) 963-9066
Sales Email:
contact@3dprintingcanada.com
Thanks for sharing and we will continue to improve :)
You're taking steps in the right direction.
Boss mine came in built incorrectly any advice on how to reconfigure it manually cuz I’m scared xD my first printer I got
I'm on the hunt for my first printer and doing my research. This was informative and helpful. Thank you for making this video.
Just ordered one of these, your video has been very informative!
the Tinkerbell music is something you can omit and I won't complain. the rest was good as I have one coming, thanks
Just received mine (4/26/2020). A few differences FWIW.
The rubber feet came attached on mine. As mentioned in the video, the rod brackets seem to line up perfectly when they were flush with the ends of the t-track. By sheer dumb luck I mad the rods exactly the right length the first time!
The z-limit did not come assembled on mine. My Z-limit switch mounts in pre-drilled holes, not on t-nuts, and would therefore only be adjustable if you used t-nuts, which are not supplied, instead of the threaded holes. I noticed that there is considerable play in the way the Z limit switch is held onto the frame. That might be something to use or might have to check from time to time.
Nice to know that the third thumbscrew is an extra. They don’t tell you that and I spent quite a while looking through the directions trying to figure out where that thing went.
My software says “Creality” in the upper left-hand corner instead of “CR-10 V2’. other than that it seems to be the same.
No I’m ready to level the bed and try to run a print!
Great video. The Z Axis Limit Switch (you must have a early model) now mounts into holes of the frame so you cannot adjust. I have been having a bugger of a time trying to level the bed (just got the printer today). The springs are up to the end at times. Much harder then my flashforge which mind you has auto leveling built in. If BL touch solves this perhaps i may look into it. Also seen they now have a CR-10 V3, lol i should have waited a bit.
Great video for the beginner !! It was great to see you putting everything together , it seemed a little intimidating , but relaxed and felt confident I could put one together myself . I know you touched on leveling the print bed , I wish you would have been more detailed about this since it's such a critical thing to set up for printing . I am interested in this 3D printer and would like to see some detailed videos addressing setting up for printing with do's and don'ts . All and All I loved the video !
Looking great
Thanks for sharing :-)
It never ceases to amaze me, how many people claim lock washers aren’t important. They keep screws and nuts from loosening and falling out...USE THEM!!!
You're not wrong, just looking at a different time scale. At first, the lock washers _don't_ do anything. It takes experience with mechanical things to understand their utility. Also some cheap lock washers actually don't do anything ever because they're not made out of a material with the wrong strength and deform when compressed.
It depends on the style of lock washer. NASA has some documents on Split Lock washers that says they don't work.
Jason, you're not supposed to fully tighten the support rods to each other, maybe leave half a milimeter or so, until after you've secured the screws to the frame. Then check for squareness by tightening or releasing a bit the rods (just a bit or you'll end up bending the frame) and then tighten the nuts. I don't have the V2 but those are the same braces Creality sells for the CR10 and CR10S
The upgrades are really worth the extra bucks compared to the CR10S. Buying those upgrades for the CR10S would increase its price way more. And regarding the CR10S Pro... I'd stick to this V2 anytime
The instructions for the support rods show them fully tightened to each other. There would also be no way to "lock" them in place, as there is with the eye bolts and the nut. Also, feel free to watch the creality provided video on installation of support rods to confirm.
I agree, you should check for squareness, but as long as you don't have the eye bolts extended too far, or too little, you won't be bending the uprights in either direction and the SHOULD already be square to the base.
Definitely best to double check with a machinists square.
Great video except you skipped actually feeding the PLA into the extruder. idk how what menu item feeds it into the extruder...
Thanks for the video helped alot
I'm glad :)
Great Video Jason, I bought my CR10 V2 but not allowed to put it together till Xmas... Sad face. Anyway does this printer have the hotend runaway protection turned on?
Yes
How far apart are the rubber feet on the v2 from each other? I want to know if it will fit on my dest length and width. Does the bed also move foward and backwards beyond the bottom frame?
@@glidewillie5767 outside to outside of the feet, 14.5" wide and 18.5" deep...though you could get away with a hair less.
You should have a minimum of 6" extra space at the back from the edge of the frame for the bed cable to not get squished when the bed moves to Y=0
You should always withdraw your blade immediately. Any DIY person or technician will also tell you this.
I have a new CR10 v2, and card reader is horrible. If i Press the card hard enough and hold it pressed, it will read the card, and if i let the pressure off, the card is not readable! bad first time experience.
I have a cr10s and there is no room for the glass sheet. Had i hit auto level with it on there it would be destroyed. Not sure if i want to crank the bed leveler down a quarter inch. What did i miss?
Hi. I haven’t turned on my printer yet because I’ve noticed a few things that have worried me about the printer. I’m meeting resistance along the Y axis and I’m just curious if there is supposed to be some resistance because it’s not a steady amount of resistance there are point where it just stop and you have to push much harder to get it to move. Another thing that worried me is that the bolts that hold onto the Z axis are very loose on both sides and I wondering if they are supposed to be that way. If you are familiar with these problems and could answer my questions it would be much appreciated. Thank you
Can you compare prints of the cr10 v2 with other prints of the prusa mk3s? Thanks
Print quality is determined by slicer settings. I wouldn't say one is better than the other.
Can this be used to make anatomicaly correct life sized female sheep companions?
Which would you guys recommend the cr 10 v2 or the ender 5 plus for performance?
I’m having a really mysterious issue with my cr10 v2. Support channels have been unsuccessful as well as my own attempts to solve. How can I enlist your help?
Just finished building it, My z axis is messed up I think idk a bolt might be locking it in place or I messed up or it came messed up but the z axis doesn’t move and it makes a very unpleasant sound that sounds like the printer wants to be put out of its misery. Any idea what could be causing it?
Unfortunately this is what happens when you follow somebody's who clearly doesn't know what he's doing as the man in this video does not. Your printer is fatally damaged and at this point you might as well just throw it in the garbage can and buy another one. Keep in mind that federal law prohibits disposing of hazardous waste in your domestic garbage and you will need to do a complete disassembly of your printer and take the hazardous parts to your local fire department or safe disposal. Had you just followed my video from the beginning you'd be fine but instead you chose the path of the fool and now you're doomed for all eternity. I personally have no sympathy for fools like you it's sad that they be allowed to continue to exist on the same planet as Masters such as myself.
Hi! Does this really needs the Titan Drive in order to print TPU? Mostly I'll use it with PETG but I'll also need some TPU to come out of it.... Any tips on that?
Or it would be better to choose Ender 3 Pro stock? What's your advice?
For any flexible material like TPUs, don't try to use bowden style printers (like all the stock Creality configurations). Yes, it can work, but direct driven extruder/hotends are just way better and more reliable at this task.
I would definately look for an extruder upgrade. Does not have to be the E3D Titan Aero, i think the new Hemera might be another interesting solution, or one of the BondTechs. I just have not had the pleasure to compare them directly, so i can't really tell you from experience what works best.
Should I get the cr 10s pro or v2 is the price difference worth it?
Cutting open an already open box... *sigh*.
Also, what kind of monster would have scrolled all that way, AND THEN LEFT IT ON 201C!?
I'm looking to buy this printer. What size laptop would be needed as far as core5 or core7, 8gb or 16 gb, and does it matter if it's 256 ssd drive or 500 ssd. Thanks
A kit available for upgrading a CR-10S instead of buying an entire new printer?
You'd need to replace the trolly on the left side where the extruder attaches as well as the whole extruder. The whole hotend assembly, change the heatbed out for 24v, new power supply at 24v, cable management with breakout boards, new control board and stepper drivers.
So, no, there won't be an upgrade kit.
Can you tell me the dimensions of the limit switch screws and t nut?
I love you.. But i also hate you.. Because now i want this printer.... hahahha thanks great video.
Haha. Thanks. Just imagine how I feel... every time I unbox one I end up buying it!
Thank you for your video. I just got the CR10 V2. I was originally using a Dremel 3d20. But decided to upgrade, with CR 10 and also a Palette 2s and Hub s. I have been having trouble with the z-axis. I leveled the bed, but once printing begins, the z-axis moves up a couple mm, and then the first layer is a failure, which causes the whole print to fail. Should I raise the z-axis and bed, and then recalibrate? Also, I just ordered the BL leveler and hope that this will help. Please advise.
Did you fix this problem, if so, how? Getting mine tomorrow so it would be interesting to know if I run in to similar issues. Feel free to give other tips and tricks about the CR10 V2. :)
I'm been considering getting a 3D printer to sell sculptures and custom frames, but at the end when he says it took 28 hours to print that shelf bracket all I thought about was "it's probably easier/faster to carve it by hand" not to mention the time it takes to model it in 3D. Why is 3D printing so inefficient? any fast speed 3D printers out there?
Don't use 3D printers for something you can carve by hand.
Which glasbed did you use?
He used to Mark 7 model 3x7d8 with the transistorized control circuitry running 73 volts DC at 950 milliamps through a push pull oscillator coupled with an overture heater component. These are available both new and used on eBay for around $900. Alternative if you have a glass factory at home you can melt down beer bottles provided that you drink all the beer while facing the south side of your house and chanting to the great God Regafurt.
Between this and a 10s if the price is very close, which would you chose?
www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYVD2C1/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Its 100$ off on amazon right now
Is the power supply fan loud for you guys too? Mine is pretty loud compared to CR10. and I can hear on video its quite loud too.
The PSU fan is no louder than my cr-10's, though it is definitely the loudest fan on the whole printer.
Creality CR-10 v2 vs pro ?
handing out 90º squares
Is there a SURE way of adding manual mesh bed leveling on this printer
Yes. You will need to flash the firmware with marlin configured to enable manual mesh bed leveling.
Jason oh ok im trying to do that but it keeps saying timeout in arduino for some reason
@@Nullsectorash make sure everything else is closed, especially Cura since it will attach to the com port and the arduinoIDE or Vscode won't be able to use it at the same time to do the flashing.
Is there a way to swap out the control box LCD / knob with a touch screen controller?
With enough effort, anything is possible.
What type of USB(S) ports is on the controller? I ordered one, they are on sale for 399, and I want to order octoprint parts, but I need to know what USB cable to buy.
At 22min you can see the micro usb connector on the side of the control box.
Why did you preheat the nozzle and bed prior to leveling?
The heat causesthe the bed and nozzle to slightly expand, you want to level whilst they are hot in order to get a accurate bed level, however, it's not necessary, I find it best to adjust the level during the print as it is most accurate in terms of actual print performance
This is typically done to burn off any residual factory carbon deposits and insect eggs that may be in there. Keep in mind these come from a communist factory which are not known for their cleanliness as the workers are mostly slave children who are disposable. It's common when unboxing to find fingertips and other body parts which can easily be disposed of but blood and seman inside the nozzle must be burned off before actual use.
Which printer should I choose with Cura 4.4? Cr-10? Cr-10s?
Cura is a slicer, CR-10 and CR-10s is a printer, this is the CR-10 v2. Thank you
Choose the cr-10s
what is the best/economical filament for the cr-10 v2? thx
Type 25X3 PIGA Ebony with three level plasma filling is the best overall filament for the money. These are available on eBay and will last most people for several years.
I have just installed the BL Touch on my ender 3 pro .
After a lengthy process of installing and making sure everything was ok
I managed to do a first print ,taking approx. 45 min.
This was an amazing print
I changed the pla and turned the ender back on ,as soon as I did. I got a very strong smell of electrical burning
The light immediately went out on the sensor
I am now left with this not working at all
Any ideas as to what may have happened
The needle had not been damaged or anything, as it had returned to home after the last print
Yikes. It obviously sounds like your BL touch could be fried (or the connectors at the board were arcing and now are completely loose)
@@Jason-yn6oy I think it may be just a faulty sensor. Everything else seems ok, Nothing much more I can really check on
Just thought you may have an idea as to the cause. I rekon I must be the first this has happened to
Thanks for getting back to me, Unlike some others on youtube
@@madforit9661 is it authentic? Maybe claim warranty?
I try to reply as much as possible but I miss comments sometimes.
@@Jason-yn6oy I bought it from Banggood, they are being really stupid. I told them the sensor is fried. After approx. 6 emails and dys later, they said maybe I can take it to local repair shop and send them the ill. Even Creality dot want to know here in the UK. They said take it up with Bang. I can see a pay pal dispute coming from this Hey thanks for all your responses
@@madforit9661 take it to a repair shop and send them the bill? It would be cheaper for them to just send you a new bltouch. Lol
Would you recommend this over the cr10s? I am thinking of getting the 10s but am open to other printers.
Don't buy a creality, all junk, if you can afford it buy a resin printer. These printers are a nightmare with screwing up prints
Feel free to ignore the other reply on here. Obviously, you need to learn how to use either machine (resin or FDM) and resin has it's own set of challenges along with much smaller build volumes, typically. I literally have 10's of thousands of hours on my multiple CR-10s and Tevo Tornadoes.
To answer your question, I would definitely get this over the CR-10s; 24v vs 12v, better cooling, better heatbed, more stable Z.... just off the top of my head.
@@Jason-yn6oy Yeah feel free to ignore Jason's reply lol
All I'm saying is if you buy one of these, get ready for mad headaches, they are very finicky, sure you will get some prints with nearly no issues, but you will get a mountain of screw up prints, you could have every setting perfect and 10 hours into a print the machine just decides its going to screw up and there goes whatever you were trying to make. Resin is typically much more user friendly, however resin is quite expensive compared to filament, your print size is much smaller, and there is a curing process for your prints when they are done, however having said all that the success rate of most resin printers is quite good and resin printers are masters for detail.
Take it from a guy who has owned 6 3d printers, including 4 creality brand printers. I will never buy another creality.
@@GearScar you should have returned your printers because they don't just "screw up for no reason" and even a quick search will show the same piles of people claiming resin printers "don't work" or that nothing adheres to their build plate. You will need to learn how to properly use whatever you buy, and any"kit" printer has the very real possibility that you may have assembled it wrong. Just look on the Facebook groups where people complain their hotend is just flopping around lose, yet they never tightened the eccentric nut.... Definitely the printer's fault the quality was terrible...
Since we're comparing printers, I've owned 12 creality printers, 4 Tevo printers, 8 anycubic (+4 resin), and an Evnovo sidewinder x1. They all work, exactly as expected.ajd don't just randomly screw up without a good reason.
@@GearScar Lol wut? Resin for a first printer? Resin is fucking garbage, as it's toxic and dangerous to use for a regular/casual user. The CR-10S is a perfect FDM printer for starting out or to upgrade is you're looking for a large build volume. Stop spreading garbage in comment sections.
Getting those first screws in were the most annoying things ever
Easiest way to do it is to simply use a standard 200 amp arc welder and weld them in. I have found on a simple build like this one you can throw the screws away and just weld all the joints in about 5 minutes you're done.
Would you (or any other experienced viewers reading this) recommend the V2 over the pro, or is the pro still a better machine?
I would say both have their upsides. If you intend on fully enclosing the machine the CR-10 v2 is a better way to go since the power supply, control board, etc can be located outside of your enclosure. Both will produce good print quality, arguably the CR-10s Pro would be better because of the bond tech extruder gears.
3D Printing Canada thanks dude, I pulled the trigger on the 10 pro v2, it’s my first machine so hopefully I will be happy with it after obligatory mods.
@@_jovian Hopefully you bought it from us! Its on sale for Cyber Monday with free shipping in Canada and the USA!
okleydokley thanks, I heard the capacitive was awful, so I did wind up picking up the V2 with the BL touch
Is this capable of printing Nylons or PC?
who is Zed?
Zed is dead baby, zed is dead.
29:50 bruh most of the part strength comes from the perimeter lol
My Zed stop switch did come with adjustable hammer bolts and nuts. It bolts to the frame. Is there somewhere I can order them? The bed won't raise up enough to level properly.
The simplest way to solve this problem is to take a 4-inch angle grinder with a tungsten carbide cutting disc and cut out or elongate the slot about 3.6 mm North of the factory position.
They speed up the heating with 24V but they make you turn a dial which took forever to set the high temps? I prefer my keypad on my cr10s pro.
I agree the scroll sensitivity is set too low. That is not a fault of the rotary encoder but rather the firmware config applied to it. By default, marlin scrolls much faster; amplified by how fast you turn the wheel. 2 turns or so and it would be at 200+.
I will trade the number keypad on the touchscreen for a 12864p LCD with every marlin menu option available every day of the week.
Sold out....😑
www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYVD2C1/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I think this is the one, I am going to get it, its $100 off
Try to perform electronics and somewhat mechanical basic search before video making/documentary... you're not familiar with basic terminology of basic connectors like You're telling 'IDC connector' as connector used in PC, 'Stud' as threaded rod so on... so try to perform basic search on parts you find....
You made a 30 minute video and didn’t even show how to get the pla into the feeder
Ban the adds thumbs down