Damn, that is some slick engineering and fabrication on the bell rank shock installation. We all screw up, it is all about the recovery, thanks for video.
Im wicked happy i found you on here. Your skill level is awesome, our tastes are very similar, hell even our ink is close lol. Added you to my favorites for sure. Now i have to go through your library lol
It's like a decouple frame point loaded torsion bar system, with a multi redundant mechanic fuse layout. All sorts of failure points before you overload a damper. You could certainly use some torsion bars.
Superb bro 🤙 you got a crazy creative mind! I liked the part where you said if you spend 3000$ on equiptment and tools you can make a 5$ part🤣 l totally feel your pain! But that’s what separates good from outstanding 👊 keep killin it.
Its fine for the peasants 🤣🤣 thanks for teaching me all these cool tricks today. Great video, truck is looking great my dude, ive never seen a cantilever like that. You're like the Bob Ross of metal work 🤣
What you’re saying is that you’re gonna remove it a year or two later because you don’t like it and you want to save yourself some headache. Sounds like a solid plan.
Happens with every project, you think it’s how you want it but somewhere through the process you think of something better. I’ve yet to build something that I didn’t have a better idea for the next time
Hola amigo! Usaste cromoly!! Lo usaba yo cuando tenia mi bicicleta GT performer ! Back in the 90's muchas gracias por compartir tu trabajo saludos desde México
Have you put a jack on the front of the rear- end where the driveshaft connects to see if it lifts which will push the drive shaft forward, I say this because when torque is applied to the wheels you create two directions of force, the wheels turn clockwise and the axle tube turn counter clockwise causing the front of the rearend to raise and pushing the driveshaft forward. I guess your angles can adjust for this to prevent it though. I love the design good work …
It’s maybe 1/4” deflection in the pinion and less than 1/2” in driveline travel from bump to full droop. The only movement the pinion gets is from the poly bushings on the one end of the links
I’m trying to wrap my head around the math/geometry for designing out the cantilever suspension. If I can figure that out, then I should be able to figure out a cantilever gooseneck/5th wheel hitch that is in my brain.
My uneducated opinion says you need to move the mounting point of the rod closer to the axel not to introduse any extra tortional loads from the exesive lenght of the bracket.
That's a pretty novel suspension design, but I can't help but think that only on key per side isn't going to be enough to handle the load. If you were to hit a big bump it's possible that you would shear that key and loose the suspension on that side. Twer it me, and I'm not a mechanical engineer or metallurgist, I'd put three keys per side and position them so that at normal ride height there isn't a direct, 90 degree, angle of force on any key.
That is my biggest concern, the manufacturer claims the tensile strength if 1/4” key shaft is 53.7k-63.8k psi. At 3” it should be around 150k but that sounds ridiculous to me, a 1/4” bolt is around 1,200 so 1/4 by 3” would be 14,400…. all that being said it’s definitely something that I will watch closely and alter (probably go to splines) if it looks like it might become an issue
Tidy job mate, did you contemplate moving the whole assy more to the rear and connect side to side with a torsion rod as a sway bar, could have had blade connections at each end onto your keyed pin for a simple drop in change of different tortion bars. Oh and grease nipples ? can't forget a couple of them.
@@nocoastmotofab4181 could do possibly the.... 4th? All electric? I'm looking for a new chassis 118ish wb no wider than 50 if you see something down there!!
No zerk fittings , or at least a bronze bushing . You never level with crap tires , air pressure and tire height will change level . Seriously some of the worst engineering I have ever seen
Damn, that is some slick engineering and fabrication on the bell rank shock installation. We all screw up, it is all about the recovery, thanks for video.
So many good ideas, nice work.. thanks for posting..
Quality looks, quality function.
Just found you channel I’m happy I did. Love how it turned out. Can’t wait to see what else you have in mind
Very nice set up. Lovely action,when it was moving on the jack. I hope it all worked👍😃Carl . Best wishes from jolly old England👍😎 Pete 🤓
Thank you for the video its credit to you on your skills very injoyable
Great design and fab work!
Very Nice job and smart
Thanks man
Im wicked happy i found you on here. Your skill level is awesome, our tastes are very similar, hell even our ink is close lol. Added you to my favorites for sure. Now i have to go through your library lol
awesome job man, that came out looking awesome far better than the 4 link before. handy trick with the nut for the hole saw.
As soon as he showed the nut I was like "no way... fuck sake" 🤣
welding a nut as a guide for the pilot bit is genius.
Nicely done definitely something to be proud of
It's like a decouple frame point loaded torsion bar system, with a multi redundant mechanic fuse layout. All sorts of failure points before you overload a damper. You could certainly use some torsion bars.
Jump on the lathe was great. tHanks for the video!
Keep up with the amazing work 💪👍💪👍💪
love it!!! bad assss bolt trick fregen awesome.
Impressive fab work. Like the inguinuity and process of design. Found myself a new RUclips creator.
Damn glad I stumbled across this in my recent F100 kick. Sub’d 👍
This is artwork.
Superb bro 🤙 you got a crazy creative mind! I liked the part where you said if you spend 3000$ on equiptment and tools you can make a 5$ part🤣 l totally feel your pain! But that’s what separates good from outstanding 👊 keep killin it.
Looks good Carl. Cantilever is tricky Fasho.
You have great fabrication skills , maybe you could build yourself a camera stand .
Well done sir.
Cool, thanks for sharing!
Recent subscriber because I love what you are doing man.
Sweet build
Good job brother
Exelente amigo es de impiracion para muchos en el mundo.. de Venezuela fascinado x su inteligencia q Dios le bendiga
😉🎉🎉🎉 глядя на то как необычно открываются двери ☝️🤔эта машина хорошо подходит для города , когда паркуется к тротуару носом.🧐👍
You totally reminded me of a fabricator saying that cracks me up....why buy it for 50 when I can make it myself for 200 hahahah
Very innovative. Can l suggest providing a way to grease the bushings? The grease flowing out will also be beneficial to the thrust bearings
Brilliant result. It looks fabulous. Definitely too cool to hide under a truck bed, so I'm glad you're leaving it exposed.
Thank you sir
Very cool.
The way you explain things, I just get it. Lol
Its fine for the peasants 🤣🤣 thanks for teaching me all these cool tricks today. Great video, truck is looking great my dude, ive never seen a cantilever like that. You're like the Bob Ross of metal work 🤣
Lmao I’m going to have to grow a fro now🤣
@@nocoastmotofab4181 I wouldn't go that far 🤣
What you’re saying is that you’re gonna remove it a year or two later because you don’t like it and you want to save yourself some headache. Sounds like a solid plan.
Happens with every project, you think it’s how you want it but somewhere through the process you think of something better. I’ve yet to build something that I didn’t have a better idea for the next time
And THAT is why my 1 year frame off is now in its 4th year. 🤣
Hola amigo! Usaste cromoly!! Lo usaba yo cuando tenia mi bicicleta GT performer ! Back in the 90's muchas gracias por compartir tu trabajo saludos desde México
Well explained.
Have you put a jack on the front of the rear- end where the driveshaft connects to see if it lifts which will push the drive shaft forward, I say this because when torque is applied to the wheels you create two directions of force, the wheels turn clockwise and the axle tube turn counter clockwise causing the front of the rearend to raise and pushing the driveshaft forward. I guess your angles can adjust for this to prevent it though. I love the design good work …
It’s maybe 1/4” deflection in the pinion and less than 1/2” in driveline travel from bump to full droop. The only movement the pinion gets is from the poly bushings on the one end of the links
Runs a 2 1/2" hole-saw one handed like it ain't no thang!
Isn’t that how it’s supposed to be done??
@@nocoastmotofab4181 some of us got practice to do then! Killer stuff man!
I thought the same thing..
Awesome!
I’m trying to wrap my head around the math/geometry for designing out the cantilever suspension. If I can figure that out, then I should be able to figure out a cantilever gooseneck/5th wheel hitch that is in my brain.
Make the Mount outa tube, run the anti roll bar inside the tube.
Hadir nyimak bosku bermanfaat👍🙏
Awesome
I like !!!!
Good old yankee ingenuity right there
my grand pa used to say i could break an anvil with a rubber mallet
My uneducated opinion says you need to move the mounting point of the rod closer to the axel not to introduse any extra tortional loads from the exesive lenght of the bracket.
That's a pretty novel suspension design, but I can't help but think that only on key per side isn't going to be enough to handle the load. If you were to hit a big bump it's possible that you would shear that key and loose the suspension on that side. Twer it me, and I'm not a mechanical engineer or metallurgist, I'd put three keys per side and position them so that at normal ride height there isn't a direct, 90 degree, angle of force on any key.
That is my biggest concern, the manufacturer claims the tensile strength if 1/4” key shaft is 53.7k-63.8k psi. At 3” it should be around 150k but that sounds ridiculous to me, a 1/4” bolt is around 1,200 so 1/4 by 3” would be 14,400…. all that being said it’s definitely something that I will watch closely and alter (probably go to splines) if it looks like it might become an issue
@nocoastmotofab4181 it looks great.i was going to say splines
Tidy job mate, did you contemplate moving the whole assy more to the rear and connect side to side with a torsion rod as a sway bar, could have had blade connections at each end onto your keyed pin for a simple drop in change of different tortion bars. Oh and grease nipples ? can't forget a couple of them.
So the rotation of the shock bar is dependent on that key? That's a no for me homie.
I'm going to sell a certain Buggy, If you wanted to "revisit an old project" :)
Haha that could be fun but I think I want to build an all independent buggy for my next off-road project
@@nocoastmotofab4181 could do possibly the.... 4th? All electric? I'm looking for a new chassis 118ish wb no wider than 50 if you see something down there!!
Bad Ass
News flash 52 is not an f100. That would be a 53. 48 - 52 is f1
Very true but not many ppl know so f1 doesn’t get the search/clicks as much as f100
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ 🤲🤲🤲 😍❤️
No zerk fittings , or at least a bronze bushing . You never level with crap tires , air pressure and tire height will change level . Seriously some of the worst engineering I have ever seen
Little over built?????!!!!!
Maybe… but I’ve always been the type that could break a rubber hammer, I plan on putting a beating on this truck so better safe than sorry
Not enough brain cells