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Space age technology.

A Formula One suspension.

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Can not believe how many people do not know the correct way to narrow a diff, never cut in center of tube, remove bearing hub and shorten from there, use tool to align to correct straightness and weld. at least this guy has the correct tool to do the job, just not the knowledge.

There was no song

Could you use a pillow block bearing bolted under the chassis for this type of system?

You totally reminded me of a fabricator saying that cracks me up....why buy it for 50 when I can make it myself for 200 hahahah

No zerk fittings , or at least a bronze bushing . You never level with crap tires , air pressure and tire height will change level . Seriously some of the worst engineering I have ever seen

What if I want to do this to the outside of car to make it look like an airplane. But I’m not taking the body panels off. Is there any way to add rivets without taking the body panels off?

@9:00 .... chucking the striker in the lathe (or a drill) and shaving a bit off the diameter so it fits the latch would be easier and quicker than trying to make the latch jaws fit the striker.👍 Just my 2 cents. Nice Rat Rod!

Hey just came across your video while looking for info on building your own a-armed suspension. Ive been kicking around the idea for my truck but building a mid travel kit for my truck instead of lowered suspension. I want to utilize all the stock pivot points, stock spindles, and just extend my track width. Any tips on where to start? i was thinking of buying some stock upper and lower control arms to measure and draw up in 3D and just extend them to my desired width to begin with. As this truck is my daily driver and cant have it down. How would i go about getting measurements off the frame to get everything in 3D where they actually are in real life? I want to send this out for laser and hopefully welder up and slap it on lol.

I thought at ride height, you wanted your lower control arm parallel with the ground.. Did I get that wrong?

The music was a bit annoying...

Very nice set up. Lovely action,when it was moving on the jack. I hope it all worked👍😃Carl . Best wishes from jolly old England👍😎 Pete 🤓

I’m trying to wrap my head around the math/geometry for designing out the cantilever suspension. If I can figure that out, then I should be able to figure out a cantilever gooseneck/5th wheel hitch that is in my brain.

Thank you for the welding tips wow I was so oblivious

nice. best pro work I have seen

Thats a sweet ass steering wheel. the best part is the inserts could be changed out to a nice wood

top notch craftsmanship i sure would love a set of these

So well done. Thank you 🤙🏽

What you’re saying is that you’re gonna remove it a year or two later because you don’t like it and you want to save yourself some headache. Sounds like a solid plan.

I got one that needs exact same stuff done just in case you missed that 1.

@nocoastmotofab most common ifs spindles are mustang 2 based. What if you use a different spindle/upright? Any pointers/info i should look into there? My thought is set the track width and base the control arms and crossmember from there?

Very innovative. Can l suggest providing a way to grease the bushings? The grease flowing out will also be beneficial to the thrust bearings

Awsome job , you’re a genius, I wish I could do that to my ranchero ,

Will ya need locking nuts?

Damn looks great

Excellent work. Best wishes from Fiji. Happy New Year by the way. Already Jan 1 2024 here, we're 1 day ahead of the US.

81 f150 has 31spline small bearing so I don't think it is very true

Proly should cap those open ends of tubing

That rear window sticker goes hard. 😄

Really like your channel lots of knowledge here please keep the videos coming!

Superb bro 🤙 you got a crazy creative mind! I liked the part where you said if you spend 3000$ on equiptment and tools you can make a 5$ part🤣 l totally feel your pain! But that’s what separates good from outstanding 👊 keep killin it.

So the rotation of the shock bar is dependent on that key? That's a no for me homie.

EXCELLENT VIDEO THANKZZ FOR SHARING!

Damn, that is some slick engineering and fabrication on the bell rank shock installation. We all screw up, it is all about the recovery, thanks for video.

yep, more mods!

Nice job. Great tip on the chromed hydraulic shaft and hydraulic shop to make the bushings. I built my alignment bar out of 2" shaft I center drilled and then checked for straight in my lathe with my 1/10th indicators. I'm in the whole thing about a $100 and half a day. My bushings are perfect when cold with just enough room to slip on with light finger tension but in use they are little tight. The aluminum expands in the housing ends after the final weld but once back to room temp it spins freely again to remove the wheel bearing bushings. Some day I will make all steel bushings. I love narrowing axles because it just a fun project. I can tell you take pride is your rear end narrowing. Other RUclips videos showcase some real hacks doing rears out there. I was 16 when I narrowed my first Dana 60 for a friends CJ5 and 43 years later he hasn't had to touch it. I did that one without an alignment bar. I just squared the ends off the tubes but the splines show no signs of wear yet when I looked at it last year in preparation for his new professionally built AMX 390. I recently shortened it again because I got a pair of gun drilled Mark Williams axles off Ebay that Mark Williams was clearing out overstock. They were made for someone else and the axle order was cancelled just before shipping. They were 1" shorter than my old axles. If I would have had to pay to do that I wouldn't have been able to upgrade my axles so cheap. The new axles and removing the piece of tube cut almost 5 pounds so I added a rear brace I am still a couple pounds lighter than before the work. One side I was able to fully remove the round welded in axle tube. It's a HD rear end with the big housing cut down to fit my sand dragster. Again nice job.

Pretty badass 💯🤘🏼🔥

Great series, but I think you over counted on the pinion teeth @9:30 38 divided by 9 is 4.22, a 37 tooth pinion is 4.11.

You do fantastic work wish I knew back when I did the same thing on Mt 67 Chevy 2

You more than likely going to have a bump steer with Thet setup

Just wanted to say thank you for this video it has help me alot

Very cool.

Good job brother

Have you put a jack on the front of the rear- end where the driveshaft connects to see if it lifts which will push the drive shaft forward, I say this because when torque is applied to the wheels you create two directions of force, the wheels turn clockwise and the axle tube turn counter clockwise causing the front of the rearend to raise and pushing the driveshaft forward. I guess your angles can adjust for this to prevent it though. I love the design good work …

It's like a decouple frame point loaded torsion bar system, with a multi redundant mechanic fuse layout. All sorts of failure points before you overload a damper. You could certainly use some torsion bars.

i am building a 37 ford with 2015 mustang irs which i need to narrow 14 inches. do you have any video of the pumpkin mount where you did the original bracket reduction ?

Amazing. I was only 37 lbs off my guess on the weight

You have great fabrication skills , maybe you could build yourself a camera stand .