I saw a video years ago called "The Gunsmiths of Williamsburg". I think they used a similar procedure except in the 1700's they used a hot steel bar to transform the acid soaked wood into color. Your gun stock is a thing of beauty. When you marry it to some blue steel it will be a treasure. Please keep this craft alive for people who appreciate fine workmanship and beauty.
Heat gun? BAH! I do it over a hot, hardwood fire. I can't say its a superior method, but it's more historically correct and the one stock I've done thus far came out absolutely beautiful.
I'll be applying the iron nitrate finish soon and all your videos are very helpful as this is my first blackpowder build. Maybe a dumb question but I assume the ramrod is finished as well with the iron nitrate. Since its hickory how will the finish compare with the figured stock? Guess I can use the cutoff from trimming the ramrod to see. Bruce L
HI, it look just amassing. I have a question, I try myself but the results are just grey-ish... black if I apply twice. I have 1 to 4 nitric acid and I add iron until solution is satutared... were did is my mistake? some help with a recipy will realy help.
Robert I just did my first rifle (Kibler Colonial) stock with iron nitrate so take what I say with that in mind. I did a test using one of the blocks from the shipping box and they looked great but not quite as rich as I thought it would be. The I did the entire rifle with 2 coats. It looked good but I thought it still had a green tint to it. Not bad but a tint. Next I did the ram rod. That hickory was tough to get color out of. I turned up the heat and tested it on the end I was going to cut off. It turned a rich reddish brown in half the time. Then I held the heat gun there for a while to see if the wood would scorch. It didn't, instead I got even a touch more color. I went back over the entire ram rod again and it looked great. So I did a spot on the rifle that I though was the worst. The color came like the ram rod, a rich reddish brown. I went over the entire rifle again and I am so glad I did. in my opinion, and Jim eluded to it in his video it takes a lot of heat. I felt safe once I tested the heat gun on a piece of scrap.
Maybe--that would be an interesting experiment but I don't imagine there will be a noticeable difference. But that is what would make it a good experiment!
Damn fine work by the way! If you want a old school finish cheat yourself up a 1/4 in 2x8 steel bar red hot almost yellow and pass the bar evenly and slowly without burning it over your stock wet with solution your greenish tint from chromium contamination in your iron nitrate! Best source of iron is old brake drums! Another god trick is soak yourself a rag or hemp rope in inron nitrate over stocks that don't have curl or good grain to tiger stripe them to your heart's desire!
Jim, what would you think the results would be using iron nitrate on a birch stock? Would the result be anything similar to the bringing out the lines on a maple stock?
I did some searching on Tried & True finishes... There was Varnish oil, Original, and Danish oil. You said varnish in the video... So can I assume that the T&T Varnish oil is what you were applying?
Thank you for the videos Jim. I haven't worked up the nerve to attempt a rifle build yet. But your instructions bolster my confidence enough that I may try it soon.
looks good , pretty much the same method I use , only thing I do different , is I dont use a scotch brite pad , I use 0000 steel wool , and apply about four coats of oil over a few days , and finish it off with a good paste wax !
Realy nice. I like the figure of the curly maple a lot. On my rifle I used cherry and on the current build of a kentucky pistol it is walnut. Your videos are all nice because of the good explanation. I am far from your skill but maybe you like to see my builds too. It will be nice to have more frequent videos from you.
So I guess this is chemically similar to steel wool dissolved in white vinegar? I have never heard of using heat to draw out the warm tones. Although the one time I got surprising warm brown tones I was outside in the strong sunlight so that might have been it then. I forgot the time and got a terrible sunburn. Anyway, I love these videos! Very informative and different from other staining videos!
This is the technique I used on a Kibler Colonial, a Lancaster build and will use it again on a Woodsrunner. The only thing I change is I add some drops of Laurel Mountain cherry stain to the oil/turpentine mix. It gives it a really deep, lush almost blood red finish. Against browned or fire blued steel, it's really beautiful. Thanks to Jim Kibler for making such fantastic kits and for providing such wisdom on tips and techniques to build them!
I just finished staining one of my Kibler rifles with this same method because of this comment. Can confirm that it is gorgeous! Going to be staining my SMR with this as well this weekend!
@@JohnnieRealEstate I used a small paper cup and filled just the bottom with the oil and turpentine. Couple table spoons ish worth maybe? Not a ton. But the cherry stain probably would be about 8 drops. I had a blank piece of wood that came with the kit that I sanded down and practiced on. On that I only had maybe three drops of the stain and I didn’t think it made it red enough which is why I added more for the stock when I was ready.
Hi Jim, I purchased a SMR kit from you late last year and look forward to finally getting to assemble it. I got the extra fancy maple stock. Do you still recommend using the tanic acid and Aquafortis on extra fancy maple?
The first time it was extremely light colored so I did it again and it turned it the exact color I wanted which was a very dark burgundy color once the oil was applied
Would it be possible to finish with linseed oil? I have used a solution in the past cleaning up old World War I and World War II bolt action rifles that had 50% linseed oil and 50% mineral spirits.
Approx 40 years ago, my father bought a rifle from a maker in East TN (I don't remember his name). The stock was maple, with a green finish. (Much more intense than the unheated iron nitrate). Do you know what finish does this?
It's still iron nitrate, but if not enough heat was applied then it can turn green as opposed to brown. It was done intentionally from time to time as well
@@kiblerjim i ended up using it to grain fill and afterwards i scoughed the shiny out and waxed and it imo looks great... this smr is my favorite rifle ... do you think the ketland lock will work in a pistol build? thanks for such a awesome kit had the smr since early january and extremely happy with accuracy and the overall package ...
A wonderful video of how the mesmerized man admired the transformation. I myself make samples from walnut, ash, pear, mulberry, and now I'm excited to make maple. The pear also has such a pattern, but it is less contrasting.
Hello. I can assume you have to have a curry maple piece of wood to achieve the tiger stripe look? Is it possible on a old stock like a Mosin Nagant? Can it be faked I guess is my question? Thanks.
What dilute ratio is normal ratio to dilute it.? can you dilute with order less mineral spirts also that cup I see how much you have in it is that a 50/50 or maybe a 2-1 blend of finish
Hey there boss awesome video I enjoyed it it was very informative I was wondering how much are your Finished stocks. Also I was wondering if you sell damaged/ broken stocks or have any scrap wood I am even interested in wood dust and shavings. Well have a good day I look forward to your reply
That piece of wood also turned out pretty nice. When you were talking about changing the color a little bit I was thinking about de-bone black around a handle and a little bit up where it carried most of the time but I'm glad you brought that up because I was already thinking about it.
Does this method preserve the way the curl reflects light when tipping wood back and forth? Or does it just darken the curl into a flat dark color killing the reflection characteristics?
Put it on slightly heavy, then wait 10 minutes, then sand a bit, and reapply a 2nd layer of the Iron Nitrate......If you do that and sand between coats the figure will pop even more. same with the varnish, it will soak a bit more that way and look even more deep without being too much
I’m getting ready to refinish a rifle stock that has a failed polyurethane finish. Does this method produce such stunning results on quilted maple compared to the tiger maple?
When you say you can use two coats of Iron Nitrate, do you apply one coat let it dry then apply the second coat, or apply one coat apply heat and blush the stock then apply second coat and blush a second time?
I just ordered an SMR today, one of the ones he had as a "quick ship". I emailed with my caliber request and had a question and got an answer in 5 minutes...Awesome!!
Jim, Have you ever used Chambers oil finish on a stock? Also, do you think the Grey Scotch brite pads Work better than the Maroon pads to apply and rub back the oil finish? Also, have you ever de whiskered a stock using only scotch brite pads? Thanks.
I just picked up a custom Hawken flintlock that has a beautiful but VERY soft stock. Just in basic handling it it picks up indents from fingernails and dings from almost any contact on the wood. Is there any method that I can use to harden the stock, (it currently has a modified linseed oil finish). I would like to have it hardened enough to use in the field or range without having to worry about wrapping it in a blanket just to keep it from looking like a dog chewed on it. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Aside from duplicating the stock in a harder wood, I doubt there is any way to harden the stock. Have you thought of giving it a "relic-ed" or aged appearance?
I have finished my stock with a stain and true oil. If I remove it/strip it. Can I start over with your process? Or would that have a negative reaction with the wood. My finish didn't come out as well as yours. I payed good money for a stock with a lot of curl. The curl is there. It just doesn't stand out as yours does.
How hot is your heat gun? I tried it on some curly maple and it didn’t do anything other than eventually burning the board so I’m wondering if you just have a more powerful gun or what the heck is going on
Iron Nitrate tends to make walnut extremely dark. I highly recommend that you do a test in an inconspicuous place on the stock, or on a piece of scrap walnut, before doing a whole stock.
Хобби
I saw a video years ago called "The Gunsmiths of Williamsburg". I think they used a similar procedure except in the 1700's they used a hot steel bar to transform the acid soaked wood into color. Your gun stock is a thing of beauty. When you marry it to some blue steel it will be a treasure. Please keep this craft alive for people who appreciate fine workmanship and beauty.
What a wonderful tutorial; thank you for the time and effort which went into this.
I'm glad you liked it, you're very welcome!
I want to buy one just so I can get such a pretty finish.
Heat gun? BAH! I do it over a hot, hardwood fire. I can't say its a superior method, but it's more historically correct and the one stock I've done thus far came out absolutely beautiful.
go for it
I ordered a cherry gun stock. Do you use the same method for that particular wood?
That’s a beautiful piece of wood! If that’s a throw away...
Do you have to neutralize the
acid afterwards? Might the acid keep working on metal inlays?
This is so beautiful it could be used on furniture.
Are there other woods that can be treated the same as Maple?
I'll be applying the iron nitrate finish soon and all your videos are very helpful as this is my first blackpowder build. Maybe a dumb question but I assume the ramrod is finished as well with the iron nitrate. Since its hickory how will the finish compare with the figured stock? Guess I can use the cutoff from trimming the ramrod to see.
Bruce L
Yes, it will work on the hickory rod as well. The color will turn out a little different but that is ok
HI, it look just amassing. I have a question, I try myself but the results are just grey-ish... black if I apply twice. I have 1 to 4 nitric acid and I add iron until solution is satutared... were did is my mistake? some help with a recipy will realy help.
Can you do this on a hard maple table top (built from scratch)?
Thanks for channel
Thanks for watching!
Is that color in the TruOil? My oil is clear.
Jim - Have you ever tried staining with homemade tobacco stain? (Ammonia & tobacco) As I understand, it was a fairly common stain eons ago.
No I have never tried it
Hi will this work on my beech stock ...
what is your turpentine to tried and true ratio , i'm guessing 1 to 20 approximately ?
Curly? I'm pretty sure that's *tiger* maple...
And that may just be the most beautiful gunstock I've ever seen.
I have used your iron nitrate on three maple stocks so far ,none have been as dark as this one. Am I not heating them long enough?
Robert I just did my first rifle (Kibler Colonial) stock with iron nitrate so take what I say with that in mind. I did a test using one of the blocks from the shipping box and they looked great but not quite as rich as I thought it would be. The I did the entire rifle with 2 coats. It looked good but I thought it still had a green tint to it. Not bad but a tint. Next I did the ram rod. That hickory was tough to get color out of. I turned up the heat and tested it on the end I was going to cut off. It turned a rich reddish brown in half the time. Then I held the heat gun there for a while to see if the wood would scorch. It didn't, instead I got even a touch more color. I went back over the entire ram rod again and it looked great. So I did a spot on the rifle that I though was the worst. The color came like the ram rod, a rich reddish brown. I went over the entire rifle again and I am so glad I did. in my opinion, and Jim eluded to it in his video it takes a lot of heat. I felt safe once I tested the heat gun on a piece of scrap.
Would you recommend this finish for Ambrosia Maple? If not what would you recommend
Ambrosia would be more porous and would probably absorb a lot -- could make for a very dark result
That's exactly the color I want to achieve.
how would iron nitrate look on black cherry, anyone try it?
I think it would be very dark - nearly black
Jim,
Could you do an example with your tannic acid first and then the nitric acid. So we can compare the differences.
Thanks
Maybe--that would be an interesting experiment but I don't imagine there will be a noticeable difference. But that is what would make it a good experiment!
@@kiblerjimnot a noticeable difference in the curl?
Damn fine work by the way! If you want a old school finish cheat yourself up a 1/4 in 2x8 steel bar red hot almost yellow and pass the bar evenly and slowly without burning it over your stock wet with solution your greenish tint from chromium contamination in your iron nitrate! Best source of iron is old brake drums! Another god trick is soak yourself a rag or hemp rope in inron nitrate over stocks that don't have curl or good grain to tiger stripe them to your heart's desire!
Jim, what would you think the results would be using iron nitrate on a birch stock? Would the result be anything similar to the bringing out the lines on a maple stock?
I was wondering the same thing as I watched this. I have a birch stock that I would like to refinish soon.
Eu. Gostaria. de. adiquiri um. Rifle. deste!!!!!!!!!!!
Did he say Tru-oil and Turpentine? Wasn’t sure.
Any reason to use curly maple other than looks?
It looks good and traditionally people have always thought it looked good.
Looks wonderful. I was just wondering if there was another component other than looks. i.e durability etc @@kiblerjim
That is Beautiful!!
Iron nitrate is hard to beat
I did some searching on Tried & True finishes... There was Varnish oil, Original, and Danish oil.
You said varnish in the video... So can I assume that the T&T Varnish oil is what you were applying?
Thank you for the videos Jim. I haven't worked up the nerve to attempt a rifle build yet. But your instructions bolster my confidence enough that I may try it soon.
Great--If we can help you out let us know
Did you start a build? if not I say go for it. I get stuck in over researching everything. I'm starting a pistol build.
That is a sweet piece of wood. I may try this on a Guitar neck.✌
looks good , pretty much the same method I use , only thing I do different , is I dont use a scotch brite pad , I use 0000 steel wool , and apply about four coats of oil over a few days , and finish it off with a good paste wax !
Realy nice. I like the figure of the curly maple a lot. On my rifle I used cherry and on the current build of a kentucky pistol it is walnut. Your videos are all nice because of the good explanation. I am far from your skill but maybe you like to see my builds too. It will be nice to have more frequent videos from you.
Thanks for the comments--we will work to try to do more videos
I've enjoyed your work also! You also along with Jim Kibler have been an inspiration and influence... Thank you both!
So I guess this is chemically similar to steel wool dissolved in white vinegar? I have never heard of using heat to draw out the warm tones. Although the one time I got surprising warm brown tones I was outside in the strong sunlight so that might have been it then. I forgot the time and got a terrible sunburn. Anyway, I love these videos! Very informative and different from other staining videos!
This is the technique I used on a Kibler Colonial, a Lancaster build and will use it again on a Woodsrunner. The only thing I change is I add some drops of Laurel Mountain cherry stain to the oil/turpentine mix. It gives it a really deep, lush almost blood red finish. Against browned or fire blued steel, it's really beautiful. Thanks to Jim Kibler for making such fantastic kits and for providing such wisdom on tips and techniques to build them!
I would love to see pictures or this!
I just finished staining one of my Kibler rifles with this same method because of this comment. Can confirm that it is gorgeous! Going to be staining my SMR with this as well this weekend!
@@Utahflintlockshow much stain did you use in the oil?
@@JohnnieRealEstate I used a small paper cup and filled just the bottom with the oil and turpentine. Couple table spoons ish worth maybe? Not a ton. But the cherry stain probably would be about 8 drops. I had a blank piece of wood that came with the kit that I sanded down and practiced on. On that I only had maybe three drops of the stain and I didn’t think it made it red enough which is why I added more for the stock when I was ready.
It would be a great help to those of us that are hearing impaired if you write in the comments section what products you are using....
You can turn on closed captions, if you mouse over the video there should be a CC button on the lower right.
That's a beautiful job, Jim. I've got a bunch of old, northern maple that needs to see a saw.
Hi Jim,
I purchased a SMR kit from you late last year and look forward to finally getting to assemble it. I got the extra fancy maple stock. Do you still recommend using the tanic acid and Aquafortis on extra fancy maple?
Yes, that can make a dramatic result for the striped maple
Used this technique last night on my Indian made 1766 Charleville, it worked great even on teak
The first time it was extremely light colored so I did it again and it turned it the exact color I wanted which was a very dark burgundy color once the oil was applied
Would it be possible to finish with linseed oil? I have used a solution in the past cleaning up old World War I and World War II bolt action rifles that had 50% linseed oil and 50% mineral spirits.
So, the iron nitrate and heat gun process is done twice, is that correct? BTW, looks amazing!
Yes, we do it twice just to try to make sure we didn't miss any spots
@@kiblerjim Thank you for your response.
I enjoy watching your videos dry much! Do you well the iron nitrate? I ordered Ferric Nitrate for a curly maple axe
handle. Will this product work?
I wonder what you add to the oil besides turpentine. Greetings from Ukraine.
Great video... Do you neutralize the applied acid before applying oil? Would you recommend ammonia or baking soda?
Approx 40 years ago, my father bought a rifle from a maker in East TN (I don't remember his name). The stock was maple, with a green finish. (Much more intense than the unheated iron nitrate). Do you know what finish does this?
It's still iron nitrate, but if not enough heat was applied then it can turn green as opposed to brown. It was done intentionally from time to time as well
What is your opinion of tru oil as a finishing coat?
I've not used it. Some people use it and like it.
@@kiblerjim i ended up using it to grain fill and afterwards i scoughed the shiny out and waxed and it imo looks great... this smr is my favorite rifle ... do you think the ketland lock will work in a pistol build? thanks for such a awesome kit had the smr since early january and extremely happy with accuracy and the overall package ...
Does this work on other wood types too? I have a traditions kit coming in and I believe it uses balsa.
A wonderful video of how the mesmerized man admired the transformation. I myself make samples from walnut, ash, pear, mulberry, and now I'm excited to make maple. The pear also has such a pattern, but it is less contrasting.
Incredible finish. I’ve always wondered how this was possible, thank you!
You're welcome!
Holy cow that’s a handsome piece of wood!
Sure is!
Hello. I can assume you have to have a curry maple piece of wood to achieve the tiger stripe look? Is it possible on a old stock like a Mosin Nagant? Can it be faked I guess is my question? Thanks.
What dilute ratio is normal ratio to dilute it.? can you dilute with order less mineral spirts also that cup I see how much you have in it is that a 50/50 or maybe a 2-1 blend of finish
Hey there boss awesome video I enjoyed it it was very informative I was wondering how much are your Finished stocks.
Also I was wondering if you sell damaged/ broken stocks or have any scrap wood I am even interested in wood dust and shavings. Well have a good day I look forward to your reply
That piece of wood also turned out pretty nice. When you were talking about changing the color a little bit I was thinking about de-bone black around a handle and a little bit up where it carried most of the time but I'm glad you brought that up because I was already thinking about it.
Can you do this on birch and walnut...I want to do some pistol grips
Does this method preserve the way the curl reflects light when tipping wood back and forth? Or does it just darken the curl into a flat dark color killing the reflection characteristics?
Your not saying what the mixture is with the nitrate and water 50 50 maybe
Put it on slightly heavy, then wait 10 minutes, then sand a bit, and reapply a 2nd layer of the Iron Nitrate......If you do that and sand between coats the figure will pop even more. same with the varnish, it will soak a bit more that way and look even more deep without being too much
Thank you for these assembly videos. Very helpful.
Thanks for watching and for your comment
I’m getting ready to refinish a rifle stock that has a failed polyurethane finish.
Does this method produce such stunning results on quilted maple compared to the tiger maple?
Yes it does!
When you say you can use two coats of Iron Nitrate, do you apply one coat let it dry then apply the second coat, or apply one coat apply heat and blush the stock then apply second coat and blush a second time?
Blush both times
Jim, thanks for the great videos!! They are really helping us new guys!!
That's what we are hoping to do! So glad you find them useful
burnish with wood shaving, like turners do.
That is beautiful!!!!
Thanks!!
That is not curly maple but tiger maple, some folks use these terms interchangeable . Beautiful outcome tho you do good work.
Do you use iron nitrate at out bottle or do deluge it, if so what rate.
Can you add a stain over the iron nitrate ?
Yes, you can adjust the color by adding stain over the iron nitrate
I just ordered an SMR today, one of the ones he had as a "quick ship". I emailed with my caliber request and had a question and got an answer in 5 minutes...Awesome!!
Glad we could help!
Can I buy these stains and get them shipped to Canada or do you have a Canadian outlet.I am building a range box to match my guns.
Unfortunately we cannot ship any liquids to Canada.
Very nice. Explained well and great demonstration
Thanks for the nice comment
After you used the Nitrate then the Tried and True varnish oil, would you use Permalyn sealer afterward? Or can you use the sealer after the Nitrate?
will this work on a walnut stock?
It will just make the walnut stock really really dark, but yes
I take it that this stain is only used on maple
Jim,
Have you ever used Chambers oil finish on a stock? Also, do you think the Grey Scotch brite pads
Work better than the Maroon pads to apply and rub back the oil finish?
Also, have you ever de whiskered a stock using only scotch brite pads? Thanks.
Are you using the Permalyn sealer as an oil to finish it?
Hi Jim, how can I purchase Aqua Fortis, how much does it cost and do you deliver to Bosnia and Herzegovina?
What kind of oil did you put on after the aqua fortis ?
Do you do the whole stock at once, or in sections?
I just picked up a custom Hawken flintlock that has a beautiful but VERY soft stock. Just in basic handling it it picks up indents from fingernails and dings from almost any contact on the wood. Is there any method that I can use to harden the stock, (it currently has a modified linseed oil finish). I would like to have it hardened enough to use in the field or range without having to worry about wrapping it in a blanket just to keep it from looking like a dog chewed on it. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Aside from duplicating the stock in a harder wood, I doubt there is any way to harden the stock. Have you thought of giving it a "relic-ed" or aged appearance?
Is it the same for walnut or cherry?
I have finished my stock with a stain and true oil. If I remove it/strip it. Can I start over with your process? Or would that have a negative reaction with the wood. My finish didn't come out as well as yours. I payed good money for a stock with a lot of curl. The curl is there. It just doesn't stand out as yours does.
Wonderful demo! Sub'd!
Pure astonishment here watching your video. I have never completed a kit, but now want to try one of yours, based on your videos! Amazing product!
I think you should! You'll be very impressed with yourself!
Great videos!
How was this method of staining discovered?
How hot is your heat gun? I tried it on some curly maple and it didn’t do anything other than eventually burning the board so I’m wondering if you just have a more powerful gun or what the heck is going on
I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but you will see the color change. Any heat gun should get hot enough
@@kiblerjim I started putting them out in the sun….1-2 weeks looking goods
Can this be used on walnut?
Iron Nitrate tends to make walnut extremely dark. I highly recommend that you do a test in an inconspicuous place on the stock, or on a piece of scrap walnut, before doing a whole stock.
I love red colored stocks however I also like white maple
I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the video.
Can you apply another coat of the aqua fortis solution to get a darker color?
what sort of oil are you using? is it linseed oil?
Wow very nice
Blankcks
Красиво!
Есть ли где нибудь текстовое описание технологии нанесения покрытия? Для того, чтобы можно было перевести с английского?
Iron Nitrate Solution
Awesome 👍
Great video. It gave me some new ideas.
That looks great, well done!!
SWEET !!
Iron nitrate is my go to--its long lasting and traditional
Can boiled Linseed oil be used?
How would that do on birdseye
Is there a good temp to use with the heat gun? On this?