I've watched dozens of these videos, modifying "affordable" blast cabinets....this is far and away the best video, best explanation, I have found!! Bloody great presentation! You've got a new subscriber here....
Fantastic. So glad I watched this before buying my Cabinet. I mades so may notes, and you ansered all my questions. So from one Mancunian in Toronto to another from across the pond, "Good on yer Mate, and Ta very much".
Hi Michael, enjoying all you videos on Land Rovers. Hoping to get a 90 myself someday. This video on the blasting unit is great! I have a one and was going to do the feed mod too. All the other things you have done were useful to know what you found was useful, some of which I’ll be doing. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks great video, I used riv-nuts too, also thinking about making the whole top hinge open to load, got mine in a really tight spot in the shop, not muck room for the side door.
I know this video is not new, but I have a suggestion for the issue of too much vacuum pulling the cabinet in. I have seen other people put a tee inline with their vac line, off the tee they put a slide gate that they can open to adjust the amount of suction that gets applied to the cabinet.
The best thing I have found is to wear latex gloves when you use your blaster, otherwise you get a horrible smell building up, caused by stale sweat from your hands!
Very good video, thanks so very much. I was going to dismiss Princess Auto entirely but you've convinced me otherwise. Lots of good tips and things to think about here. Cheers!
Hi Mike, the blast soda is designed to 'explode' on impact mildly taking the surface layer off as it goes. It is supposed to be non-destructive and the soda can also be bought with aluminium oxide mixed in for a bit more of an aggressive blast. I've seen a video where a guy removed paint from the bodywork of his Jensen Interceptor ONE LAYER of paint at a time and even blasted up onto the valuable curved rear screen to demonstrate it's non-destructiveness. I bought an Eastwood portable blaster shortly after this demo and used it for motorcycle carb refurbing... needless to say it's been buried under 10 tons of crap now... but that soda is damn good stuff... Oh yeah... I almost forgot, it is also used widely in the food industry for blasting industrial ovens etc because it is totally non toxic and food safe so you can do all your household oven-ware as well and pick up a few brownie points on the way :-)
Get a pedal / gun kit from Eastwood in the US www.eastwood.com/eastwood-blast-cabinet-foot-pedal-and-gun.html and modify the valve at the bottom to draw a bit of air into the suction side - 100% reliable
Nice vid. I use on of these a lot. You will find the mods advised by Stephen below useful. Also, disregard the dust caught in the cyclone, it is useless for blasting now, any usable media will still be in the cabinet. Keep the media clean and find some fine mesh for the great to stop small components falling through and blocking up the pipes. Good luck
Over here we have glass fibre door screen to stop flies getting in the house - it is a perfect mesh for a blaster - I also stuck some magnets near the trap too help prevent and washers or bolts getting drawn into the collection tube on the bottom flap Mike
6 лет назад+1
Hi Mike nice bit of kit 🤔 no more tools for me I need a bigger garage first. 🤔🤔🤔😀😀😀
Add a external bendy inspection light like the map light on army land rovers to inspect inside and out side of the part pre and post clean nothing worse than working in bad light on a small part and fiddly recesses. Maybe turn it into a mini workstation with the hand tools for the jobs you use it for save you back and forth but be mindful of the weight.
For a start I just want to say what a great video and your modifications are brilliant for everyone with one of these Chinese models who could consider some of your tip's to improve their setups, I noticed on your cabinet you appear to have the original gloves but personally they are not flexible enough and you have restrictions on movement even into the deepest corners of these and other cabinets so to overcome everything (faults and other problems with these Chinese models and the restrictive problems with handling) I built my own cabinet for virtually nothing :the only thing I had to buy was a telescopic bottle trap for part of design: but the glove department I thought I'm not wasting my money on the restrictive rubber gloves ( oh! I'm not a tight a*se English man ) but I was just using my creativity I said to myself "I'll use the arm's from a old outdoor jacket my son was throwing out " even though it cost him £300 when he first bought it ! So I wanted sleeves with elasticated wrists and "bingo" they had just that so now they are situated inside my 3'long x 2' deep x 20" wide cabinet that has the door at the front (a drop down design at waist night the gloves are attached via two 150mm to 125mm waist pipe reducers fixed to the inside of the door, I don't even need to use any gloves when I'm using 240 grit aluminum oxide or any fine media " just clap your hands inside the cabinet brush any bit's with your fingers pull your hands out and I don't lose any of that media " although anything like 80grit material I just put on a regular pair of builders gloves and away you go i can reach into any corner of the cabinet without a problem, so it's just an idea that some blasting fans or users could have a think about ( replacing the rubber gloves) if they find them unsuitable like when dealing or handling very small item's as I have no problems at all even handling say a small 12 mm bolt for example to clean in a second as I have my mini air eraser built into my cabinet along with my regular gun now I have the best of both world's either clean or blast small or large item's in the same cabinet with ease. Again brilliant video keep them coming.
Hi can you do a video of a 200tdi break master cylinder repair.. Love the content, I am currently going through all your videos and learning loads. Keep it up
Hi, I know his is an old video, but would it be possible to show a close up of or even better, a how to make the siphon system you have made and maybe any more mods and improvements to the cabinet you've done in the last year.
really liked this video, i followed most of your suggestions, but the damn thing isnt sucking the media. I have a huge compressor, ive tried several media types. any suggestions? think it could be the gun? Also love your humour, makes me laugh, my folks are from Lancaster, so i get most of your comments!
Needs a few more tweaks - I tried walnut shell but it clogged up in the hose as it could not get through the gun - was ok on soda and light ground glass, so I ordered a gun and pedal so I hope that fixes it
Some good mods there Mike I have the smaller version I like the idea with the sand I filled the hopper up on mine and it worked ok but got damp so had to clean it all out using less sand would make the it a lot better could empty it when I finish a job lighting was also a problem
Bob, I actually bought a small one from Amazon and then spied this one the same price so I cancelled my order I see Machine Mart has the same as we have here The idea of bringing the sand/bead from the bottom is good and you do not have to fill up the machine and thus get damp as you have - and that is a reason why the Halogens - on the vid they look yellow but they are super bright and will dry out the air/medium Did some modification today and moved the vacuum suction pipe to the top where it will draw off the light dust I ordered a better gun and foot pedal as I tried walnut shells and it could not get passed the nozzle - works good on soda, ground glass and glass beads
the bigger one would suit me better tried to get some bottom wish bones in and it was just too small but didnt have the space for the one you have still works good though and cost about £40 delivered
Yeap I am running out of room too - which is why I put wheels on it £40 was not bad for a small one - was it like this? www.machinemart.co.uk/p/heavy-duty-blast-cabinet/ This was the style I almost bought
yes the same without clarke written on it. Have you seen the inline blow gun dont know if that would work instead of a separate line in the cabinet or might be too awkward
It is sold as air line in our local auto parts shop = very good for low temp work outside in winter but not so good in a shop where you are welding or cutting
Where do I start ? Have I got some modifications for you. First off the screen is going to become etched extremely quickly. So weld up a frame with a frame hinged fitting inside with a gap of 5 to 6mm to used old type car door frame rubber seal with the folded crimp. Bolt the existing screen into what you have created, Use cling film or stack adhesive films to save the screen on the inside, if you use a total air fed mask unit in the past for spraying them it's the same idea for those screen savers But I digress The frame allows easy access.. Then you will need a screen wash, this also feeds air from the top and across the screen washing it and also helping drastically reduce drawing the grip through the extraction port. One thing you can do is take a blank of steel sheet approx 6x6 inch and stand it off the extract port by 1/2 inch or by what looks right to make it indirect. But back to the inlet so the inlet at the back take the cover off the inside find some large diameter tube 60 mm plus or large if you wish make a flange bolted to a square flange on the inside. For the wash make a box profile 8 to 10 inches wide by 3/4 inch deep tapered back then a box connecting to the flange you've created. Next build a shed or lean to by your garage and put all the dust extraction gear in it. It is preferable to have the inlet air pipe drawing air from outside, because of back wash occuring as it will but you won't see the dust just as an unexplainable build up of dust on everything in the workshop. It is preferable to use a shed or container for the sole purpose of blasting as it will fill your workshop with dust and contaminate everything otherwise. Take off the drop door to clear the grit out the base make a box profile to fit round both the lip left on each part by about 4inches, seal & pop rivit together. Get a thick plastic bag and zip clip it to the neck you have created and then open the clearing hatch through the plastic bag to catch every bit of medium. If you need a larger cabinet. by another one take the door off cut the end out of your existing one leaving a lip and bolt the two together with sealant. Also a moisture trap for the shop line will pay for itself Especially if you spray. You will find walnut shell extremely useful and non toxic. The wheels look good. All the best
Thanks for the info! I have no problem with visibility or the glass - I am not using a coarse medium and blast at no more than 50 psi The set up I have has been modified today to make it a bit better - got a speed reducer on the vacuum and inverted the pick up tube for the suction so it is almost at the top for the cabinet so air travels from bottom right to top left - works well I have 2 traps in my system but as it is winter I tend to get a bit of condensate in the air hose - not a big deal - not has any clogging and the halogens dry out any dampness Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations hi Mike thanks for your reply, I mentioned a screen wash and screen guards as over a short time the glass or perspex becomes etched due to the movement of the medium moving around during use the screen guards + wash help keep visibility as high as possible as it will become drastically reduced without these things. They are industry standard But I guess like myself you'll find out the hard way Cheers
I have this same blasting cabinet and did the common upgrade for the media tube, except I did it not through the bottom flap but thought the 45° side wall. I wanted to still be able to put a bucket under to drop out the media. I just welded a 1" nipple to a plate and transitioned with a 45° elbow to add on the typical stuff. It seems to work much better than the OEM setup. Question - I currently just use crushed glass from PA. I can only get flow with the finer 30-60 (thought it was 70-80 but only see 20-30 and 30-60 on their website). I use the gun with the pink tips and have to use the largest one. Has anyone got a setup to run the 20-30 grit. I tried to grind the orifice larger but that was a no go. Also anyone able to compare the use the Aluminum oxide with the pink tips, I believe the AO cuts better and is finer than the crushed glass.
I never use larger than 30/60 in the cabinet under suction - I have a pressure pot blaster for heavy rust and larger items but still use 30/60 Be careful with aluminum oxide - the dust is very bad for you
Build a proper tablet under the cabinet to accommodate the vacuum and the dust collector. Since the cabinet is now on wheels, you don't want to have a ball and a chain attached to it ;)
@@BritannicaRestorations I've been really happy with glass beads as well. Nice finish on aluminium. I use soda only on very precise parts like carburators.
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for your attention, but what are the cons on vapor Honing or wet blasting, well I have heard it's not as agresive on soft metals
I have one of those from machine mart and it is infuriating to use. The oxide doesn't fall down the hopper and the gun keeps blocking. I need to do these mods. Also attaching new film under the glass is awkward. Why couldn't the glass be hinged?
@@BritannicaRestorations ok its a ball valve that's what i was wondering about. Thank you very much I am going to try this on mine . Have an awesome day.
Great Video! Hi Mike, Could you tell the parts that are needed to make your own metering valve? I’m tried my blaster always clogging up. How does that gun work for you with the metering valve? I was thinking getting a foot pedal and gun from Eastwood . Thank again great mods. Paul from Winnipeg
Great video.Good tips. I have a question on your set-up as mine is similar but not working properly. Have you got some contact information for me to connect with you directly?
Thanks for your amazing ideas. I just got my cabinet. The bottom pick up makes so much sense. I'm making modifications tomorrow
Glad it was helpful!
I've watched dozens of these videos, modifying "affordable" blast cabinets....this is far and away the best video, best explanation, I have found!! Bloody great presentation! You've got a new subscriber here....
Thanks for watching!
This is the best video on modifying a blaster on youtube! Great ideas, well explained and Canadian too! Great content!
Fantastic. So glad I watched this before buying my Cabinet. I mades so may notes, and you ansered all my questions. So from one Mancunian in Toronto to another from across the pond, "Good on yer Mate, and Ta very much".
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Michael, enjoying all you videos on Land Rovers. Hoping to get a 90 myself someday. This video on the blasting unit is great! I have a one and was going to do the feed mod too. All the other things you have done were useful to know what you found was useful, some of which I’ll be doing. Keep the videos coming!
Thank you!
Wow thanks! You answered all the questions I had and some I wouldn't have until I bought it. Thanks !
Glad I could help!
The dust cyclone attachment is available at "Lee Valley" in Canada.
Thanks great video, I used riv-nuts too, also thinking about making the whole top hinge open to load, got mine in a really tight spot in the shop, not muck room for the side door.
I know this video is not new, but I have a suggestion for the issue of too much vacuum pulling the cabinet in. I have seen other people put a tee inline with their vac line, off the tee they put a slide gate that they can open to adjust the amount of suction that gets applied to the cabinet.
The best thing I have found is to wear latex gloves when you use your blaster, otherwise you get a horrible smell building up, caused by stale sweat from your hands!
But that 's the part I like!
Lol!
Mike
Very good video, thanks so very much. I was going to dismiss Princess Auto entirely but you've convinced me otherwise. Lots of good tips and things to think about here. Cheers!
just needs a few mods
Hi Mike, the blast soda is designed to 'explode' on impact mildly taking the surface layer off as it goes. It is supposed to be non-destructive and the soda can also be bought with aluminium oxide mixed in for a bit more of an aggressive blast. I've seen a video where a guy removed paint from the bodywork of his Jensen Interceptor ONE LAYER of paint at a time and even blasted up onto the valuable curved rear screen to demonstrate it's non-destructiveness. I bought an Eastwood portable blaster shortly after this demo and used it for motorcycle carb refurbing... needless to say it's been buried under 10 tons of crap now... but that soda is damn good stuff...
Oh yeah... I almost forgot, it is also used widely in the food industry for blasting industrial ovens etc because it is totally non toxic and food safe so you can do all your household oven-ware as well and pick up a few brownie points on the way :-)
Good to know- it does a good job but not cheap here
Just picked up that powerfister model for $120, time for some upgrades, thanks!
Get a pedal / gun kit from Eastwood in the US
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-blast-cabinet-foot-pedal-and-gun.html
and modify the valve at the bottom to draw a bit of air into the suction side - 100% reliable
@@BritannicaRestorations Decent!
Nice vid. I use on of these a lot. You will find the mods advised by Stephen below useful. Also, disregard the dust caught in the cyclone, it is useless for blasting now, any usable media will still be in the cabinet. Keep the media clean and find some fine mesh for the great to stop small components falling through and blocking up the pipes. Good luck
Over here we have glass fibre door screen to stop flies getting in the house - it is a perfect mesh for a blaster - I also stuck some magnets near the trap too help prevent and washers or bolts getting drawn into the collection tube on the bottom flap
Mike
Hi Mike nice bit of kit 🤔 no more tools for me I need a bigger garage first. 🤔🤔🤔😀😀😀
making blasting cabinets better, one at a time .... nice idea with the small air gun
Thanks!
The silicone air hose makes a lot of difference - a lot more flexible!
Add a external bendy inspection light like the map light on army land rovers to inspect inside and out side of the part pre and post clean nothing worse than working in bad light on a small part and fiddly recesses. Maybe turn it into a mini workstation with the hand tools for the jobs you use it for save you back and forth but be mindful of the weight.
The halogens are great - but I think if the cabinet was white inside it would be better
For a start I just want to say what a great video and your modifications are brilliant for everyone with one of these Chinese models who could consider some of your tip's to improve their setups,
I noticed on your cabinet you appear to have the original gloves but personally they are not flexible enough and you have restrictions on movement even into the deepest corners of these and other cabinets so to overcome everything (faults and other problems with these Chinese models and the restrictive problems with handling) I built my own cabinet for virtually nothing :the only thing I had to buy was a telescopic bottle trap for part of design: but the glove department I thought I'm not wasting my money on the restrictive rubber gloves ( oh! I'm not a tight a*se English man ) but I was just using my creativity I said to myself "I'll use the arm's from a old outdoor jacket my son was throwing out " even though it cost him £300 when he first bought it ! So I wanted sleeves with elasticated wrists and "bingo" they had just that so now they are situated inside my 3'long x 2' deep x 20" wide cabinet that has the door at the front (a drop down design at waist night the gloves are attached via two 150mm to 125mm waist pipe reducers fixed to the inside of the door, I don't even need to use any gloves when I'm using 240 grit aluminum oxide or any fine media " just clap your hands inside the cabinet brush any bit's with your fingers pull your hands out and I don't lose any of that media " although anything like 80grit material I just put on a regular pair of builders gloves and away you go i can reach into any corner of the cabinet without a problem, so it's just an idea that some blasting fans or users could have a think about ( replacing the rubber gloves) if they find them unsuitable like when dealing or handling very small item's as I have no problems at all even handling say a small 12 mm bolt for example to clean in a second as I have my mini air eraser built into my cabinet along with my regular gun now I have the best of both world's either clean or blast small or large item's in the same cabinet with ease.
Again brilliant video keep them coming.
Thanks!
Mike
Hi there. Great video. What are the fittings and stuff for the bottom suction that feeds the gun to recycle to media !
Just pipe fittings and a ball valve
Great presentation
Glad you liked it
Hi can you do a video of a 200tdi break master cylinder repair..
Love the content, I am currently going through all your videos and learning loads.
Keep it up
Hi, I know his is an old video, but would it be possible to show a close up of or even better, a how to make the siphon system you have made and maybe any more mods and improvements to the cabinet you've done in the last year.
really liked this video, i followed most of your suggestions, but the damn thing isnt sucking the media. I have a huge compressor, ive tried several media types. any suggestions? think it could be the gun?
Also love your humour, makes me laugh, my folks are from Lancaster, so i get most of your comments!
I dumped the original gun and got one of these
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-blast-cabinet-foot-pedal-and-gun.html
Nice bit of kit, Mike.
Needs a few more tweaks - I tried walnut shell but it clogged up in the hose as it could not get through the gun - was ok on soda and light ground glass, so I ordered a gun and pedal so I hope that fixes it
Some good mods there Mike I have the smaller version I like the idea with the sand I filled the hopper up on mine and it worked ok but got damp so had to clean it all out using less sand would make the it a lot better could empty it when I finish a job lighting was also a problem
Bob,
I actually bought a small one from Amazon and then spied this one the same price so I cancelled my order
I see Machine Mart has the same as we have here
The idea of bringing the sand/bead from the bottom is good and you do not have to fill up the machine and thus get damp as you have - and that is a reason why the Halogens - on the vid they look yellow but they are super bright
and will dry out the air/medium
Did some modification today and moved the vacuum suction pipe to the top where it will draw off the light dust
I ordered a better gun and foot pedal as I tried walnut shells and it could not get passed the nozzle - works good on soda, ground glass and glass beads
the bigger one would suit me better tried to get some bottom wish bones in and it was just too small but didnt have the space for the one you have still works good though and cost about £40 delivered
Yeap I am running out of room too - which is why I put wheels on it
£40 was not bad for a small one - was it like this?
www.machinemart.co.uk/p/heavy-duty-blast-cabinet/
This was the style I almost bought
yes the same without clarke written on it.
Have you seen the inline blow gun dont know if that would work instead of a separate line in the cabinet or might be too awkward
Machine Mart is a bit dear - not seen the in line gun - have you a link?
Can I ask what the silicone hose is sold as? Everything I can find is either not strong enough or not flexible ... 😊
It is sold as air line in our local auto parts shop = very good for low temp work outside in winter but not so good in a shop where you are welding or cutting
Where do I start ?
Have I got some modifications for you.
First off the screen is going to become etched extremely quickly.
So weld up a frame with a frame hinged fitting inside with a gap of 5 to 6mm to used old type car door frame rubber seal with the folded crimp. Bolt the existing screen into what you have created,
Use cling film or stack adhesive films to save the screen on the inside, if you use a total air fed mask unit in the past for spraying them it's the same idea for those screen savers
But I digress
The frame allows easy access..
Then you will need a screen wash, this also feeds air from the top and across the screen washing it and also helping drastically reduce drawing the grip through the extraction port.
One thing you can do is take a blank of steel sheet approx 6x6 inch and stand it off the extract port by 1/2 inch or by what looks right to make it indirect.
But back to the inlet so the inlet at the back take the cover off the inside find some large diameter tube 60 mm plus or large if you wish make a flange bolted to a square flange on the inside.
For the wash make a box profile 8 to 10 inches wide by 3/4 inch deep tapered back then a box connecting to the flange you've created.
Next build a shed or lean to by your garage and put all the dust extraction gear in it. It is preferable to have the inlet air pipe drawing air from outside, because of back wash occuring as it will but you won't see the dust just as an unexplainable build up of dust on everything in the workshop.
It is preferable to use a shed or container for the sole purpose of blasting as it will fill your workshop with dust and contaminate everything otherwise.
Take off the drop door to clear the grit out the base make a box profile to fit round both the lip left on each part by about 4inches, seal & pop rivit together.
Get a thick plastic bag and zip clip it to the neck you have created and then open the clearing hatch through the plastic bag to catch every bit of medium.
If you need a larger cabinet.
by another one take the door off cut the end out of your existing one leaving a lip and bolt the two together with sealant.
Also a moisture trap for the shop line will pay for itself
Especially if you spray.
You will find walnut shell extremely useful and non toxic.
The wheels look good.
All the best
Thanks for the info!
I have no problem with visibility or the glass - I am not using a coarse medium and blast at no more than 50 psi
The set up I have has been modified today to make it a bit better - got a speed reducer on the vacuum and inverted the pick up tube for the suction so it is almost at the top for the cabinet so air travels from bottom right to top left - works well
I have 2 traps in my system but as it is winter I tend to get a bit of condensate in the air hose - not a big deal - not has any clogging and the halogens dry out any dampness
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations hi Mike thanks for your reply,
I mentioned a screen wash and screen guards as over a short time the glass or perspex becomes etched due to the movement of the medium moving around during use the screen guards + wash help keep visibility as high as possible as it will become drastically reduced without these things.
They are industry standard
But I guess like myself you'll find out the hard way
Cheers
you should try soda bicarbonate from a Farm feed store, TSC or Co-op a bag about the size you have $20 Canadian. and post how it works.
It was not very good!
I have this same blasting cabinet and did the common upgrade for the media tube, except I did it not through the bottom flap but thought the 45° side wall. I wanted to still be able to put a bucket under to drop out the media. I just welded a 1" nipple to a plate and transitioned with a 45° elbow to add on the typical stuff. It seems to work much better than the OEM setup.
Question - I currently just use crushed glass from PA. I can only get flow with the finer 30-60 (thought it was 70-80 but only see 20-30 and 30-60 on their website). I use the gun with the pink tips and have to use the largest one. Has anyone got a setup to run the 20-30 grit. I tried to grind the orifice larger but that was a no go. Also anyone able to compare the use the Aluminum oxide with the pink tips, I believe the AO cuts better and is finer than the crushed glass.
I never use larger than 30/60 in the cabinet under suction - I have a pressure pot blaster for heavy rust and larger items but still use 30/60
Be careful with aluminum oxide - the dust is very bad for you
How big is the air compressor you are using?
Not sure of the CFM but it is a V4 head driven by a 12hp 3 phase electric motor - lot of air!
Thanks
Build a proper tablet under the cabinet to accommodate the vacuum and the dust collector. Since the cabinet is now on wheels, you don't want to have a ball and a chain attached to it ;)
I need the vac and separator on other jobs but it will be on the list
Done a few more things today and the glass micro beads are superb!
This one?
www.machinemart.co.uk/p/sb30-large-blast-cabinet/
@@BritannicaRestorations I've been really happy with glass beads as well. Nice finish on aluminium. I use soda only on very precise parts like carburators.
I think what is needed next, is an ultrasonic cleaner and some method of electro plating
What specs of air compressor did you used for that cabinet? Thank you
it's a 3 phase 50cfm V4
Nice video, what do you think about vapor Honing or wet blasting vs regular sand blasting, is it worth investing on or is it just a fad?
I have come to the conclusion, soda or bead blast and then ultrasonic cleaner
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for your attention, but what are the cons on vapor Honing or wet blasting, well I have heard it's not as agresive on soft metals
What's the largest piece you can blast in there? I'm looking to blast 15" rims off my truck
You might get it in if you remove the grill - but it will be tight
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks, great video, btw!
I have one of those from machine mart and it is infuriating to use. The oxide doesn't fall down the hopper and the gun keeps blocking. I need to do these mods. Also attaching new film under the glass is awkward. Why couldn't the glass be hinged?
We will make it better together cheap and easy fixes!
great video! ty
Glad you liked it!
Hi Mike where did you get that metering valve down on the bottom for the media flow thanks?
I made it myself using pipe fittings and a 1/2 ball valve
@@BritannicaRestorations ok its a ball valve that's what i was wondering about. Thank you very much I am going to try this on mine . Have an awesome day.
Why they don't come standard with Rivnuts beggars belief, I've just finished doing mine, they should come from the factory that way
Yes getting the glass back in once you have been using it is a right messy carry on!
Great Video!
Hi Mike,
Could you tell the parts that are needed to make your own metering valve? I’m tried my blaster always clogging up. How does that gun work for you with the metering valve? I was thinking getting a foot pedal and gun from Eastwood .
Thank again great mods.
Paul from Winnipeg
I got the gun and pedal from Eastwood - bit pricey for importing - try E bay
Email me and I will send a picture
britrest@britrest.com
Good Morning Mike great video I sent you an email.
Thank you
Where did you get the silicon tubing?
Silicone air line
What is that soda stuff you mention, Mike? Bicarbonate soda ?? or some other stuff ?
Yes Bi Carb - works ok but is expensive per pound
Thing is 530 CAD 4 years later JFC
Great video.Good tips. I have a question on your set-up as mine is similar but not working properly. Have you got some contact information for me to connect with you directly?
britrest@britrest.com
Like it.
Thanks!
I have tried several blast mediums and find the glass bead is superb = may do a video on the results
You made it suck less. 🌬 😀