FIXING A 1900's STEAM HAMMER! Pt. 6
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- Опубликовано: 18 май 2024
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My name is Alec Steele. I am a blacksmith, amateur machinist and all-round maker of all-things metal. We make videos about making interesting things, learning about craft and appreciating the joy of creativity. Great to have you here following along!
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Развлечения
Thanks for watching guys! Keep to hear your thoughts on this anvil block! Please check out today’s sponsor: Go to tryfum.com/ALECSTEELE and use code ALECSTEELE to save an additional 10% off your order today.
Fireball tools? their in US, but they have a massive massive cutter, that 36 inch cincianti ?
hey might be able to cut it and create dovetails
Autocorrect "keep" or "keen"?
Hi Alec, love your videos mate. Wish you uploaded more 😅
a big handheld router with a big cutter. or use a metal drill to get the angle and then with a angle grinder and elbow grease
You are looking at this problem wrong.Why cut a dovetail in a bottom anvil that weights a ton at all? Anvil is heavy and difficult to machine.instead cut a wide flat slot in it and bolt a small section of steel plate in it.Then in that small section you can cut a dovetail if you want on your bridgeport milling machine.Heck it doesnt need to be dovetail at all it can be a t slot and it will still work ,gravity holds bottom die anyway.Its much simpler to cut a flat spot on a block that big than to cut a dovetail.
Okay okay, I have a new plan, let's make a steam train from an 1900s Steam hammer 😂😂😂😂
A scaled down steam train would be sick.
@@Pon1bcdwhat’s the point of that 😂 full size or no balls
@@tylerwestman5258 sadly it would just be a regular steam train then. not a power hammer steam train.
Should be easy, flip it to the side and bolt on some wheels... the add a swinging lever arm from the shaft.
@winstonleeman8739 I'm thinking of the steam hammer being tied to the speed of the train so when it's going fast you have to be really quick with your forging lol.
The standard response to most suggested by-hand jobs in the joinery shop: "Make a jig!"
EXACTLY what I was going to say - make a sliding jig for the angle grinder.
a "rail" jig for the grinder migth work
Exactly what I was thinking
@@piccalillipit9211 Yep, one that is solidly welded together zo it won`t wiggle and the grinder can be progessively lowered along the angle of the cut to progessively cut the dove tail joint. That way it also will be relatively consitent and not turn out wonky.
Bump. Highly worth the investment of time
Make a jig for cutting the dovetail!
Something that is rigid and accurate, and NOT free handed
I was going to suggest the same. It seems there are a few places to bolt a jig to once fabricated. Something vaguely accurate and repeatable could be thought out to hold a grinder. Much like a router or planer sled for woodworking, one might devise a grinder holding solution.
That is if there is no way to machine it properly, a jig would be the next best. Cheers and good luck.
I’m going to throw this out there: in wood working, you would use a track saw. and I know some skill saws can take grinding wheels. hope that helps.
I was thinking, get some extruded aluminum, linear rails and make a jib to hold the grinder.
I had a very similar thought! Glad I'm not too crazy if someone else thought it too 😂
@@fireotters Just weld the jig to the anvil...
when cutting your dovetails use an angle grinder with some sort of jig to help you keep your angle perfect
Like line-boring machines, there must be some way to rig up a 'line milling machine' device to carve those dovetails.
Like attach a guide rail to the milling table and use it’s adjustability to control the precision?
Use the same techniques for slab flattening jigs. Create a portable frame that is wide/long enough to fit the anvil. Mount a gantry system to the frame using something like linear rails or v-rollers on round bars. Mount a router on the gantry.
Let’s assume the anvil is ductile iron…
If you were really determined, it could be cold chiseled and precisely scraped in.
@@opendstudio7141 That's a lot of chiseling.
Someone I know repaired the dovetails of his ancient power hammer with a steel cutting tracksaw, he made a jig to level and position the tracksaw and gently cut away metal till he had a good surface, with some hand filing to clean it up and it came out perfect from what I heard.
This is my thought exactly. Carbide sawblade go slow bam dovetails
Clarke Chapman in Gateshead have a milling machine that the anvil would get lost in the corner of. They do sub-contract machining, get it on a pallet and get them to mill the new dovetails for you.
Seems to be a bit of a hurdle to get it on a pallet right now.
I think he wants the anvil back though...
So good to see both puppies again. Crazy makes for a heck of a shop hand!
File it into shape
That's a lot of filing, but it is an option.
You sick bastard.
scrape it into shape
I bet he could get Will Stelter to fly in from Montana to hand-file it. We all know how much he loves doing that kind of work.
thats what my old collage shop teacher would have had us do.
It's fascinating how effortlessly a part comes together when you apply the very technique that was used to create it initially. It's like a culinary secret where the dish tastes better when you follow grandma's original recipe to the letter-simple, yet magically effective!
I love it when a plan comes together *A-Team theme*
Alec, call around to some auto repair shops that rebuild engines (especially those that work on large trucks). They usually have massive milling machines for decking blocks (taking off some material to make them flat again). I think they would be able to mill out the anvil for you.
You could use the fixing bolts on the anvil to bolt on a grinding guide jig for the grinder. Two parallel round bars with a sliding carriage on them with the grinder attached to the carriage?
Phil
The growl during the sped up ramblings of a madman was my favorite part 😂
Cut the dove tail with a portable mill machine. Climax Tools makes the best. You should be able to rent it from the Climax representative.
The Climax Representative sounds like a person from a Carry-On-film.
Climax Tools definitely sounds like help for a very different sort of hammering...
I heard they had a client who was very satisfied with the good reaming they received.
I may not be an official rep, but I'm willing to stand in as a climax representative.
Love the fact that the circle is still there like an Easter egg for the long time viewers. I love the videos. Keep it up 10:53
I saw it too and had a happy flash back.
Everything stops for tea
Three-quarters of English casualties in the German bombing runs were because at Tea Time they left the bomb shelters to go make and drink tea despite the air raid sirens.
According to Astrix and Obelix it's also why we lost to the Romans because everyone stopped fighting to drink tea.
to be fair..... tea is bloody good :) as a brit i damn well love a good cuppa
@@CHRISBYCREAM897 you'd be shocked but we Americans like our tea too, we just like it a little colder ;)
Alec yelling "yeah baby" is the most Austin Powers-like thing I've ever heard him say...😂
Lmaoo I thought the exact same
If you use the now exposed bolt holes, you can make a sort of rail/carriage to attach the angle grinder to, so it gets to be a straighter cut
Watching you restore this hammer reminds me of when i was in the Navy. Went in in 88 and ran a boiler and turbine made in 1943.
CV-43?
I worked at a sugar mill in my 20's that ran off a pair of babcock and Wilcox boilers from the 1940s. A couple of our boiler operators were old navy boys and said it was just like being home aboard their ships.
Iowa class?
@@manythingslefttobuild one of them served on Missouri. The other aboard a destroyer. I can't remember the destroyers name though.
@@manythingslefttobuild nothing that cool lol. LSD that carried amphibs and marines. I did spend a few days on the Missouri while they were getting her ready for mothballs
I like it when we see some super expensive parts, because it means we're going to get more episodes of this series to make back the expense!
Alec, get a copy of Machinery Handbook, AND KEEP IT WITHIN REACH, while in the shop.
Best wishes from Northern Manitoba.
You mean that book to his right, your left @8:37?
I've always loved your's and Jamies humor and friendship.
Setting the vice up means returning it to how it was before you pulled it apart. Jamie is correct.
As probably many other subscribers of this excellent channel, I love how you go on with your project with half a plan… a big relief for the king of impro that I am after watching Curtis from cutting edge engineering…😂
This is catching on fire, oh the bronze!! Can always count on you boys for a touch of comedic chaos.
A few things:
1. Use jig to grind it. Making the jig and the actual grinding will be quite nice to watch so you will have it two-in-one;
2. Hand sanding is an option too, but you'll risk it to become a little boring somewhere mid 2025;
3. Videos are getting better these days. Light fun, somehow more intimate with viewers (as if we are there ... kind of), the vibe in general, interesting topics as well. Hopefully this will help you (re)gain traction with views and subscribers.
4. A suggestion - maybe disrupt the major project (steam hammer in this case) with some small project (2-3 episodes max). Ideally the big one plus 2 smaller projects all of them slightly in different directions. This way most people will be satisfied with he content. I am here for the vibe, style and for the past 8+ years of memories so I don't really need to be satisfied in any way, but going through the comments it might be a thing to consider.
have you seen a video of hand scraping...
this, in my opinion, is an excellent reason for why hand grinding that dovetail is a good idea.
you cant fit the dovetail in the mill, but you could mill a template(male dovetail, if you will) to rub some marking compound on, and use it to hand scrape the dovetail that way.
Firstly, omg doggo is so excited about helping
Secondly, I cannot believe the bronze in water trick worked 😂
The way I've seen it done before, is you heat the whole fucking thing and then after fill the inner liner with ice water, or in more extreme cases, liquid nitro.
Awesome series - I do the odd bit of welding and VERY light metal work but I just love these videos with restoring massive old machines ❤
My new favorite genre is getting old things unstuck.
I like how the thumbnail of the Series just gets Wilder and wilder
Idea for the broken dovetail: fill the gaps with braze. Understanding that it’s too soft for the impact of the hammer, the top impact cast iron surface would still be intact, the braze would just hold the die laterally. Then it could be filed very precisely into shape without taking a century to do it.
Royal Navy artificers used to make tea by putting tea, water, and condensed milk, all cold, in a bucket, and blowing live steam through it. Once you have steam for the hammer you can try it.
Ur a G Alec hope life brings you nothing but good times and success. Keep the kickass project videos coming. !
I worked as handpallet truck designer. 😃
Your pallet truck can defiantly carry 2500kg, but it must be an 100% even load on the forks.
The hammer was a not a evenly loaded
use magdrill with an endmill + the bed of the bridge port to have accurate movement
10:52 Tac-weld a length of steel bar to the anvil (or a steel plate on the floor) for reference. Then build a rack and adjustable slide to attach the grinder to, so you get parallel grinds? An end mill would be nice.
Good to see the dogs earning their keep.
I'm absolutely loving this series. Keep up the good work team!
As I'm sure a few have suggested already I'd affix a grinder on to a set of linear guide rails. This would allow you to set a fixed angle. Or alternatively I'd just try free handing it and see where you're at afterwards. Making any kind of jig would be a video's worth of content in itself.
my first thought for the dovetail situation was to rig up some sort of rails and attach your grinder to a makeshift "sled" so you can ensure that everything moves straight and square and you can take off as much as needed.
Here's a handy tip
Next time you machine Bronze, Brass, Copper etc.
Flip cutters upside down (use right handed if you have it) and use lathe in reverse direction, flings the chips down to the bed and not your face.
You can definitely create a jig to make accuratish enough dovetails with the angle grinder and a big cut off wheel. That’s gotta be your best bet cause there’s no shot you’re fitting that big anvil into any mill or shaper
Oop, turns out everyone and their mother already had this idea lol
This project is truly fascinating! Always looking out for the new episode too come online. Always a shame when it ends. Keep up te good work!!
12:21 That beautiful slow mo shot with a macro lens for only about 5 seconds in the whole video! Great shot nonetheless!
If you make a jig and attach a 2 x 4 piece of lumber to the angle grinder, you can have wood sliding on wood for a jig. Attach one piece of lumber to the angle grinder, then fashion a sliding stop out of lumber and secure it.
You will need to go slow in the final pass so the vibration doesn't shift the frame for the slide, or you will have to secure it in place with glue to prevent subtle shifting, but this will get you within a few mm if done carefully. Break the glue and lumber free, and you're done.
That is the form of jig I would approach this with.
Spectacular editing in this one! Keep up the great work.
once again this feels like a good time to bring the word numpty back into circulation
Agree with "Make a Jig" But going 1 step further, I would make a router jig and get a few heavy duty carbide bits, you can order them to already have your angle, and make sure you are using a heavy duty router, at least a 3/4inch drive unit. Then still go slow, heat is your enemy. But with a solid jig framing the work it can be perfect with hand tools.
More dog content!!!! You’ve got the sweetest puppers. I liked the science experiment too. Hilarious 😂😂
You could measure the anvil block/the part you want ground, thoroughly in all directions and calculate (at least roughly) its volume. Iron has a density of 7,9 grams/cm3 (3 kg/l). Volume timed with density equals weight.
Very interesting journey, you are on here 👍👍👍
The next Alex Steele project; forge a sword while continuously sitting in a chair.
Sounds like an angle grinder on a diy linear rail would be perfect for cutting new dovetails.
The milling of the anvil reminds me of line boring on big parts, there is probably a bolt-on or weld-on device that can precisely mill this, something like a bolt on shaper, for use in reconditioning large mining equipment.
Im a simple guy. I suggest you guys build something that can hold the angle grinder in the exact angles you need it to out of two parallel bars to ensure some kind of consistency to make sanding easier (like a chopsaw setup). Place a bronze sleeve into the handmade dovetail cut which could hold your machined parts
For your anvil: could you cut a rough dovetail with the angle grinder and then cast the negative space, turn that into a mold and have an insert cast in steel or cast iron? That insert would then be small enough to mill on. Your alternative is rough cuts with a grinder and then years of file work to get it perfect.
Hey mate, for achieving a flawlessly flat surface, think about building a track for the grinder. You could go for something similar to Kamera Tracks. Alternatively, another method could involve mounting a rod directly onto the grinder, positioned at two 90-degree angles. This setup allows you to effortlessly push it back and forth while maintaining parallel alignment.
Send the anvil to Australia. Curtis at cutting edge engineering will do you right
Hahaha yes but sadly and probably too expensive…
12:15 - the bokeh on those sparks is gorgeous!
He uploadet the video at the EXACT moment I wanted to go to sleep, well thatt'll be antoher day being tired
You could set a CNC mill on top of that dye and mill it down that way
Love this series!
You could make a slide track to attach the angel grinder to to keep a clean line to cut in new dove tails.
Weld some guide rails onto the anvil, then put a carriage onto the angle grinder using the handle and guard bolts. It's kind of a compromise between a hand cut and a mill.
It's worth putting an alignment key on the bottom of your vice 👍 I did it years ago, saves alot of faf
I have an idea that I may think will work. A combination of both ideas. You could build a jig or something that could hold the angle grinder at the needed angle and could slide back and forth on a gantry to make consistent, precise cuts. It's a lot better than making those cuts by hand and it mimics the milling machine functionality. It would require a bit of engineering but not too much
Make a jig for the angle grinder, best example I can think of is the ones used to grind down the welded joints on train tracks.
Find someone with a shaper please. Love watching them work, proper old school.
Attach the angle grinder to the milling table to get a more Ridgid and controlled cut using one of the axis
These videos are awesome! Thank you!
Alec, Here's a fun idea for the bottom die, build a massive broach for it.. essentially your own shaper.
WAKE UP ALEC DROPPED HIS NEXT 1900’S STEAM HAMMER VIDEO
Maybe we should avoid the word "dropped" in conjunction with hammering devices. Don't want to jinx it.
@@MerennulliEspecially when he's trying to lift it using a pallet jack...
Alec finally learns that there are more effective techniques than just smashing things with a hammer.
That sleeve plan came out better than most others can claim. Not bad, not bad at all!
Look up the art of scraping for machinery. There’s specialist out there that can scrap in machines like mills , lathes and other type of equipment by hand tools and bring them in with in .001 of an inch. Pretty amazing skill. Might be an option for your press.
Jamie our voice of internet in setting a vice bit.
As you said it would be very very very very brave to take an angle grinder to that anvil, but hopefully the guy pulls through and maybe even has an opening before September
You might want to contact an engine rebuilder/machine shop. They can deck those parts all the way across in one pass and use a dye to verify accuracy, just like they would deck an engine block or a set of heads.
Maybe try building a jig to cut the dovetails like some kind of sliding arm to hold the angle grinder at the proper angles. Use it almost like a surface grinder to take small increments at a time.
Can you make a jig/guide rail for the grinder idea? to keep your angle true ...just tack it or clamp it to whatever you can to keep it safe. Dunno if its a worthwhile idea. i love this restoration though and your right, fresh bronze is verrrry pretty :)
props to the editor! great work.
I came to say this. Is it jamie that does the editing? Absolutely superb 👌
Build a jig on rails or ball guides and attach the the angle grinder. That way the jig will keep the cutting wheel straight and at the angle you want while you cut. Would love to see the jig you build. Great work as always.
All right can't wait to watch this episode 👍😁👏👏
Build a rail system that you can attach your grinder to that slides in and out cutting your dovetails.
Fabricate a pattern to go around the mount (3D printed would be ideal, wood or steel also good). Use it as a guide for shaping and carefully grind away the material, not cut to line, cut some but mostly grind away bit by bit using the template as a check the material until you are where you need to be. You can also mount a grinder on rails and use it as a precision cutting tool system but will take time to build that. Good luck!
Use the angle grinder to cut the detail on the anvil, but use a jig to make sure the angle grinder stays at the proper angle
For setting up the bottom die, I would machine an insert with new dovetails in. Then drill through the new piece into the cast with a pilot drill. The remove the new pice and open the holes for clearance and head sinking. On the casting, I would drill to undersized tapping drill. Then heat the casting and tap while hot. Re-heat the casting, drop your new dovetail in place and maintain heat on the casting as you tighten up the bolts. Once it has cooled, those bolts are never coming out!
A steel framed jig with linear rail guides would help tremendously with the dovetails.
Tack weld it onto the anvil and go at it.
Maybe make a guide for the angle grinder to cut the dovetail? Kinda like a track saw for wood.
MAKE A JIG - some linear rails / steel profile with something to slide on it with angle grinder mounted to it
Should work pretty well
Just use 3M Cubitron disc to cut it
And go slow....rly slow
Should end pretty good
What I have seen done is a rig that lets you Mill in situ. Conceivably, you could rig a milling spindle and cutter direct on to your mill table and move the hammer base close enough to the mill to use the XY axis. You might also build a rail for your grinder and simply slide the grinder up and down the rail. Not as nice but it might be good enough.
As noted below. Make a grinder jig. Or a mag drill with a milling bit. Same way as woodworkers do with routers. Also, make sure your health insurance is paid.
I think for the inaugural run of the steam power hammer, you need to run it with a coal forge just once for nostalgia sake
Alec, not sure whether you or he would consider a collaboration but Snowball Engineering, not sure of his real name, may be worth contacting. He is in the UK, tackles large / unique machining jobs and has a very large mill, line boring machine, etc. Just a thought. Love the channel and keep up the great work!
So you say, there is a chance we get to see this series untill september😍
For the dovetail. Maybe a track saw. Don’t know what others call them but it’s a circular saw on a track system you clamp to what ya cut. Use a metal blade and adjust depth as you go.
You could do little scraping with angle grinder, and maybe with real scraping tool. You can't get better fit and it's surprisingly fast. I have done it with stone, making surface fit to metal block.
The idea is, you first machine your lower die straight, then put some scraping color (or dykem) on it and rub against anvil surface. Then use angle grinder to grind of every spot with color on it. Repeat the process, untill you have color evenly everywhere.
Then you can make a tool, which is basically flat bar with lathe insert screwed into it, and continue with that untill your surface is really flat.
Best machine surfaces like milling machine sliding surfaces are done with these technique, except using straight edges and such instead of machined surfaces. However, your power hammer don't need such precision and that's why you can start with angle grinder so it won't take forever
Definitely dry ice and alcohol works a treat. Done some wheel bearings that way several times. No press needed if you do it right. Have a press on standby tho. Do not do it yolo in the driveway without one. Cheers.
build a jig for the angle grider so it slides straight. and you push it in by hand
Nice to see you on lateral! Good job on the credit card question:)