Thankyou for sharing the process, your step by step is helpful to a newbie like me, who has lots of ideas just not the skills to do it all. Your talking through every step was a great learning experience. Thankyou, after watching this I'm going to look at some of you other videos 😊
Definitely gorgeous! I loved making pottery, I wish I still could. My hands shake too much. Beautiful piece, excited to see the next attempt! Definitely subscribed 😊
Wow that clay is extremely dark for porcelain. All the porcelain I have ever worked with has been luminous white even in the wet stages. Really interesting as the properties of Porcelain are the Kaolin white clay, sometimes you can porcelaneous stoneware that is grey when wet but fires like porcelain. Maybe I'm just used to working with really white porcelain or something. Also with porcelain centering is key. With stoneware you might get away with a little wobble but with porcelain it just makes your job twice as hard. You are doing really well to bring it back from that. One more tip that has saved me countless times, for a crack try blending (Blend well with a immersion stick blender) some toilet paper up into your slip. The paper fibers act like a bridge for the clay and will 'bridge' the crack but burn off in the kiln leaving behind pure ceramic. you can add other ingredients to this like Sodium silicate but I have fixed many cracks with just toilet paper and slip. I have even patched bisque fired pieces with small non structural cracks with it., eg surface cracks around a finial.
Wow, thanks for sharing this wealth of knowledge! Do you patch bisque fired with the toilet paper + slip mixture and then glaze over it once dry? And yeah, I was also really surprised how not-white this porcelain was! But it fires to such a beautiful white.
@@janicerohrssen Yes, but the times I have patched bisque I have used a drop of sodium silicate (it lessens the amount of water you have to use to make slip liquid) so basically I mix the dry clay, toilet paper and as little water as I can get away with (Maybe a 1/4 cup to a 1/2 cup of mixture), to form a very 'dry' paste, I would say something like a peanut butter consistency (you can always add a little more water if necessary after the sodium silicate). When you have the driest mix of slip you can make and still have slip, then add a drop of sodium silicate. Mix well. This should deflocculate the slip by neutralizing the charges of particles in the slip, allowing for more even suspension and thinning. Makes the slip seem like it has more water in it, basically. Add another drop if you don't notice any difference with the first but the change will happen all at once, in an instant, one second you're mixing something that looks like peanut butter the next it looks like very watery slip. If after the second drop if you still don't notice a change, add a dash more water. Hope that helps.
As frustrating as it is,I almost welcome mistakes and accidents when I’m creating a piece of art. It’s where you learn the most for sure. This piece turned out beautifully even if it wasn’t quite where you wanted it to be. I’m really enjoying watching your creative process
omg your experiment reminds me of the super thin translucent porcelain cups from studio sohman. it's my dream one day to make porcelain pieces like that one day
Its beautiful. Very creative. I love that dusty blue before firing btw .... Trying to get it thin in such a deep cylinder is going to be a nightmare for you. Especially if you're going to let light through. Why dont you just cut out thin slivers out of the leaves in between the veins, to let light through. A bit like a ladder without it being too delicate. Remember the owner will have to handle it for cleaning as well.
I also love the blue before firing. The contrast is so nice. Yes, that really is the challenge. I'll give it a few more goes and if it doesn't work then maybe I'll cave and carve through the leaves.
Did you consider using shellac resist on your background and water etching the leaves. (Bone dry stage)It works brilliantly on porcelain to get it thin enough to let light through. Ah…now I see that you, wanted the leaf texture to remain…that would be trickier to achieve.
Do you know how to tap and tell relative thickness? Higher tone getting thinner, lower tone keep trimming. 😊 It works well once you have your ear tuned to your clay.
Yes, great advice! This clay was new to me, so not a great ear for the tones on this one, but will definitely use this as I continue to make things in porcelain!
Loved your process... I would suggest to try Laguna Frost Porcelain. This clay is translucent and gives a nice color. Looks like you fired to ^10, But if you have any ^ 5/6 firings this clay would give you a nice votive candle lit feel. ~Lori Yugen
Thanks for the tip! I think we actually only fired to ^6 because we fired it with other stoneware. Is Laguna Frost easy to throw? And I've heard it has issues with cracking - have you found that to be the case?
@@janicerohrssen I second the Laguna Frost. It can be thicker and still translucent. It does suck up water quickly and dries quickly, so to prevent cracking you'll need to control the drying. Just make sure it dries evenly and you'll be fine. it's my current favorite clay. I love your lantern! What a fun project!
![Developing new styles with Hakeme technique [陶芸] 刷毛目技法で試作してみる](/img/1.gif)
Please tell the studio assistant to WEAR A MASK when sanding or grinding clay - ESPECIALLY after it's been fired! ☠️
I know 💀 She usually does, especially when sanding or dremeling for a long time
@@janicerohrssen or sand wet
Yes! Thank you so much for your concern! 🤍
All the hard work you put into this piece really shows
Thank you so much! 🥰
Thankyou for sharing the process, your step by step is helpful to a newbie like me, who has lots of ideas just not the skills to do it all. Your talking through every step was a great learning experience. Thankyou, after watching this I'm going to look at some of you other videos 😊
You are so welcome! Glad you found it helpful! 🤍🤍
Definitely gorgeous! I loved making pottery, I wish I still could. My hands shake too much. Beautiful piece, excited to see the next attempt! Definitely subscribed 😊
Thank you so much! 🫶🏼🫶🏼
this is a such a cool idea!! i loved seeing the whole process and i really hope you try this again someday. it would look so beautiful!!!!
Definitely!! There may be a new video in the works 😏😏
Wow that clay is extremely dark for porcelain. All the porcelain I have ever worked with has been luminous white even in the wet stages. Really interesting as the properties of Porcelain are the Kaolin white clay, sometimes you can porcelaneous stoneware that is grey when wet but fires like porcelain. Maybe I'm just used to working with really white porcelain or something.
Also with porcelain centering is key. With stoneware you might get away with a little wobble but with porcelain it just makes your job twice as hard. You are doing really well to bring it back from that.
One more tip that has saved me countless times, for a crack try blending (Blend well with a immersion stick blender) some toilet paper up into your slip. The paper fibers act like a bridge for the clay and will 'bridge' the crack but burn off in the kiln leaving behind pure ceramic. you can add other ingredients to this like Sodium silicate but I have fixed many cracks with just toilet paper and slip. I have even patched bisque fired pieces with small non structural cracks with it., eg surface cracks around a finial.
Wow, thanks for sharing this wealth of knowledge! Do you patch bisque fired with the toilet paper + slip mixture and then glaze over it once dry?
And yeah, I was also really surprised how not-white this porcelain was! But it fires to such a beautiful white.
@@janicerohrssen Yes, but the times I have patched bisque I have used a drop of sodium silicate (it lessens the amount of water you have to use to make slip liquid) so basically I mix the dry clay, toilet paper and as little water as I can get away with (Maybe a 1/4 cup to a 1/2 cup of mixture), to form a very 'dry' paste, I would say something like a peanut butter consistency (you can always add a little more water if necessary after the sodium silicate).
When you have the driest mix of slip you can make and still have slip, then add a drop of sodium silicate.
Mix well. This should deflocculate the slip by neutralizing the charges of particles in the slip, allowing for more even suspension and thinning. Makes the slip seem like it has more water in it, basically.
Add another drop if you don't notice any difference with the first but the change will happen all at once, in an instant, one second you're mixing something that looks like peanut butter the next it looks like very watery slip. If after the second drop if you still don't notice a change, add a dash more water.
Hope that helps.
@@tegannottelling amazing. Thanks for sharing! 🫶🏼
As frustrating as it is,I almost welcome mistakes and accidents when I’m creating a piece of art. It’s where you learn the most for sure. This piece turned out beautifully even if it wasn’t quite where you wanted it to be. I’m really enjoying watching your creative process
For sure. Accidents can make for great art. 🫶🏼
omg your experiment reminds me of the super thin translucent porcelain cups from studio sohman. it's my dream one day to make porcelain pieces like that one day
Studio Sohman!! 😍 You can do it! We can try to achieve it together haha
Its beautiful. Very creative. I love that dusty blue before firing btw .... Trying to get it thin in such a deep cylinder is going to be a nightmare for you. Especially if you're going to let light through. Why dont you just cut out thin slivers out of the leaves in between the veins, to let light through. A bit like a ladder without it being too delicate. Remember the owner will have to handle it for cleaning as well.
I also love the blue before firing. The contrast is so nice.
Yes, that really is the challenge. I'll give it a few more goes and if it doesn't work then maybe I'll cave and carve through the leaves.
Did you consider using shellac resist on your background and water etching the leaves. (Bone dry stage)It works brilliantly on porcelain to get it thin enough to let light through. Ah…now I see that you, wanted the leaf texture to remain…that would be trickier to achieve.
Ooo this is super interesting! I had never heard of this technique but now I’m interested in trying it!
Do you know how to tap and tell relative thickness? Higher tone getting thinner, lower tone keep trimming. 😊 It works well once you have your ear tuned to your clay.
Yes, great advice! This clay was new to me, so not a great ear for the tones on this one, but will definitely use this as I continue to make things in porcelain!
Loved your process... I would suggest to try Laguna Frost Porcelain. This clay is translucent and gives a nice color. Looks like you fired to ^10, But if you have any ^ 5/6 firings this clay would give you a nice votive candle lit feel. ~Lori Yugen
Thanks for the tip! I think we actually only fired to ^6 because we fired it with other stoneware. Is Laguna Frost easy to throw? And I've heard it has issues with cracking - have you found that to be the case?
@@janicerohrssen I second the Laguna Frost. It can be thicker and still translucent. It does suck up water quickly and dries quickly, so to prevent cracking you'll need to control the drying. Just make sure it dries evenly and you'll be fine. it's my current favorite clay. I love your lantern! What a fun project!
@@patspotpage Thank you so much for the advice! I will order some Laguna Frost to try when I get back to London!
Maybe if you try again use a flash light to guide you while carving the outside
If only that worked! Porcelain only turns translucent after the glaze firing, so the light wouldn't shine through at the carving stage.