Nice video. As an added note: Always locate/loosen and/or remove a threaded FILL plug on a differential or transfer case BEFORE draining. If your fill plug got damaged and could not be removed, at least the vehicle is still drivable until it can be fixed.
Absolutely, that's great advice for any gearbox or transfer case so you don't end up draining something you can't refill. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
def my go-to brand oil; it's just becoming tougher & tougher to find, even quasi-reasonably priced(!). love the vid too; think i need to start doing the same: setting cams at diff angles, & i tend talk myself through it anyway /may as well be teaching!.. **not to take away from what u do whatsoever; been at it myself close to a quarter century
Ron; I think you have missed something on the rear differential. According to the Haynes Manual and the vehicle owners manual you also need to add a Friction Modifier to the Gear Lube before putting the 75W-140 in. I know this to be true because I once had the rear differential serviced by Firestone and they didn't add the friction modifier. The rear end then began grinding and I thought it was going out. I took it to the dealer since it was still under warranty and they added the friction modifier which fixed the problem. I am in the process of changing the fluid in everything and am adding 4 oz. of Lube Guard Limited Slip Supplement to the rear differential which is supposed to be an equivalent to the Mopar Friction Modifier recommended by Jeep. The manual doesn't say this is necessary on the front differential.
The Jeep in the video has an open differential and no friction modifier is needed. Friction modifier is added to limited slip differentials to prevent chatter, which you experienced. AMSOIL's additive is called Slip Lock. It may not be needed if you're using AMSOIL products. The following is from the AMSOIL Slip Lock data sheet: "NOTE: AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
How would I know if I need to add the friction modifier to the rear differential if I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty 4X4? I couldn’t find any info in my owners manual. Thank you in advance for your time!
Great video - will be changing the fluids in my Jeep this spring. Instead of removing the rear diff cover; could you use the pump in reverse; by adding a hose to the bottom and pumping the old fluid out of the rear diff? Might not get 100% of it, but should be able to get the vast majority of it.
Its probably better than not doing it at all, but I wouldn't suggest doing it by pumping the old fluid out through the fill hole. You won't get all the old fluid out. With the cover off you can squeegee out the cruddy stuff on the bottom with your finger, and also wipe out any of the metallic slime you can reach. There should be a magnet in the bottom that can be cleaned. It may look like a rubber refrigerator magnet with ridges, but those ridges are metallic sludge that's been picked up and needs to be cleaned off. That magnet is the only filter there is for the differential. All you're really doing is getting rid of the old oil and replacing with new and you'll do a lot better job of getting the old cleaned out by removing the cover and cleaning everything as good as possible. On the cover I've used sealants that have cure times from 1 hour to 24 hours so depending on what you end up getting, the vehicle will be down for some span of time so you need to plan ahead. Since you're looking at doing this in the spring and today it's late fall, you've obviously good at planning ahead. Thanks for the question. Good luck with your Jeep!!
What is the torque specs for the rear diff bolts. Front diff you should remove the fill plug FIRST before you remove the bottom drain plug. As you may not be able to get the fill plug off and then you would be without gear fluid in the front..
Great tip on removing the fill plug first. Good way to avoid a dilemma, or at least pick a more convenient time for one. Torque spec on the rear cover plate bolts is 30 ft/lbs. Thanks for the comment !
I just take the fill plug out and use a mityvac manual fluid evacuator Its a 2.3 gallon Got it on Amazon I use it on my 2008 jeep liberty to suction out the transmission fluid because there is no drain plug But I also use it on front and rear differential and transfer case.
IN THE MANUAL IS: Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant (SAE 75W-90) or equivalent. For trailer towing, the lubricant should be replaced with Mopar Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant (SAE 75W-140) or equivalent. Models equipped with Trac- Lok™ require a limited-slip additive....which one I choose?? SAE 75W90 or SAE75W140??? MY CAR IS LIBERTY 05 LIMITED 4X4
Actually both, with the 75W90 in the front and 75W140 in the rear. As you mention, Chrysler recommends 75W140 for towing. Virtually all of that vintage Liberty have a receiver hitch now due to the fuel tank recall, so they could easily be towing something anytime. If you have a limited slip differential, when you lift the rear end and turn a wheel, both will turn in the same direction. With an open differential they turn in opposite directions. AMSOIL does offer a differential additive called Slip Lock. When using AMSOIL Severe Gear differential lubricant, it’s generally not needed. Here’s AMSOIL’s guidance on that. "AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials.” Thanks for the question!
Buona sera. Fate attenzione nel vedere alcuni video. In questo differenziale la jeep raccomanda esplicitamente il mopar e bisogna aggiungere 118 ml di additivo specifico. Alcuni tipi di olio la jeep li sconsiglia drasticamente
The Jeep in the video has an open differential and no friction modifier is needed. Friction modifier is added to limited slip differentials to prevent chatter, if needed. AMSOIL's additive is called Slip Lock. It may not be needed if you're using AMSOIL products. The following is from the AMSOIL Slip Lock data sheet: "NOTE: AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
Buopn giorno, ho risposto al video ma non per criticare la qualità amsoil che anche io uso per il motore. Riporto ciò che è riportato nel manuale officina della mia jeep cheroke kj libertyimmatricolata nel 2003. Il manuale riporta l'utilizzo esclusivo dell'olio mopar 75/140 all'anteriore e l'olio 75/ 90 al posteriore più l'aggiunta di 118 ml di additivo. Questo e quanto riporta, inoltre sconsiglia, almeno nel mio manuale, l'utilizzo di qualsiasi altro tipo di lubbrificante. In particolare sconsiglia l'utilizzo dell'olio detronII. Questo è quello riportato nel manuale officina del mio modello di auto, che è quello ripreso in questo video. Tutto qui, la mia è un osservazione non una critica@@midwestsynthetic
The spec calls for 4.2 pints in the rear so 3 bottles (quarts) would be the way to go to be sure you don't come up short. The front dif uses 2.5 pints so two bottles would be good for that. Thanks for checking out the video!
For the rear, would it also be possible to just pump the old oil out of the plug hole without having to take off the differential cover and then pump new oil back in? Or would there be a risk of leaving too much old oil in there?
I've never done it that way, so don't know how close you could get the tube to the bottom. How much you get out would be a good measure of determining if you were able to get the tube close to the bottom. However, you would not be able to wipe the crud from bottom or clean the magnet. Best is still to remove the cover plate if you don't have a plug. Thanks for the question!
I did that I pumped it out using a mityvac Got it on Amazon for about 130 dollars I use it to suck out the transmission fluid and the front/rear differential and also the transfer case.
Out of site, out of mind mostly. If you have a unit with a drain plug, it's a very easy job. Pulling the back plate to drain may be a 24+ hour cycle depending on which RTV is used.
Thanks for the question! Here's a link to the hand pump: www.amsoil.com/p/bottle-hand-pump-g2039/?zo=5265385 However, if you don't already have the lubricant in bottles, a much better way to fill the differential is with the Easy-Pack, link here: www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?zo=5265385 The Easy-Pack is a squeeze bag with snip off spout and works really slick for filling the differential. A number of products are available in this packing including ATF for applications like the transfer case. The bag is square on the bottom so the leftover sits on the shelf just like a bottle. Really cool idea and it works great. Easy-Pack video: ruclips.net/video/LGERD4VRXMQ/видео.html Thanks again for watching and leaving a question!
I noticed the manufacturer recommends 75W-90 under normal driving conditions and 75W-140 for heavy duty conditions. What made you decide to go with 140 instead of 90? Mine has 130k. Would 140 be more beneficial at higher miles than 90?
Since there's a choice, 75W-140 for better protection with the heavier oil. The only downside would would be a drop in mileage that would be hard quantify. Most driving ends up being severe service anyway, trailer towing, city, hills. I use 75W-90 in the front. Most important thing is to just change it at recommended intervals. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Maybe, if it chatters in the corners. AMSOIL has an additive called Slip Lock. It is generally not needed if using AMSOIL Gear Lube. Here's what AMSOIL says about it: " AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Of course if you don't have a limited slip differential there would be no need for it anyway. Thanks for the question!
Can i ask a embarrassing question pls i have a kj and om not sure what the rear diff is iv been told a few different ones im still learning and getting used to American diffs i used to have a xj with dana 30 front and a dana 44 rear but i think somebody put the d44 on because i didmt think ya could get a xj standard with d44? So yeah the kj rear axle? Lmao
You can search the internet for jeep build sheet, and using your vin find the original configuration. According to my Haynes manual they used both the 198RBI and 8.25" diffs in 2002 and then the 8.25" for 2003 and later (KJ's). Good Luck!
I was going to change the gear oil in both my 2003, 2 wheel drive Liberty and 1999 Subaru Forester can I used the same oil for both? 75w-90 or 75w-140 you recommend? I am not sure I can put the 75w-140 in the front and rear of the Subaru.
Thanks for the question! I just checked the AMSOIL lookup guide, the 2003 Jeep Liberty calls for 75W-140 in the rear (and the front for 4WD). The 1999 Subaru Forester 80W-90, 75W-90 or 75W-110 for both the front and rear. You’d need two different types to do both vehicles.
Hey nice video, I bought a liberty just like this one, and it is in the same condition when it comes to rust, do you think this could cause any serious issues? Or is it something that can be cleaned? Especially the gas escape I am scare it could get holed or something does not seem such a thick metal.
Whether rust is an issue is really a judgement call, and of course some states have inspections. The tank is plastic but the straps are metal and worth taking a look at. The Liberty's had some recalls for corrosion on some suspension parts, like the lower ball joints and rear control arms. Recalls are always worth checking, might get some free work from the dealer! The Liberty's are a cheap(sometimes), easy to work on 4X4 so worth keeping around as long as they're roadworthy. Unless you're in the desert it's going to be tough to find a clean one now. Lot's of used one's coming from auctions. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! Have fun with the Liberty!!
I brought a 04 liberty 3.7L automatic four-wheel drive. Believe it or not there is NO RUST AT ALL, ... BUT now I have a torque converter clutch solenoid issue, I'm up in the air on want to do,, it'll cost more than I paid for the car to get a torque converter put in
AMSOIL products can be purchased from AMSOIL and ship from a number of different warehouses around the USA so delivery is usually quick. If you get there from one of the links in the video description or from MidwestSynthetic.com it helps support the channel. Thanks for the question and interest in AMSOIL products!
The front diff holds a little more than a quart, about 2.5 pints. The rear holds about little more than 2 quarts, about 4.5 pints. Thanks for the question.
Maybe, if you have a good limited slip differential and it chatters. AMSOIL has an additive called Slip Lock that can be added, if needed. Here's what AMSOIL says about it: "AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Thanks for the question!
Nice video. As an added note: Always locate/loosen and/or remove a threaded FILL plug on a differential or transfer case BEFORE draining. If your fill plug got damaged and could not be removed, at least the vehicle is still drivable until it can be fixed.
Absolutely, that's great advice for any gearbox or transfer case so you don't end up draining something you can't refill. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Excellent video. When filling the rear or front I just wait till a little gear oil starts coming out the fill hole then you know its full.
Allen wrench to check the fluid level?! Brilliant!
Nice jobe with the alignent pins 😎😎
def my go-to brand oil; it's just becoming tougher & tougher to find, even quasi-reasonably priced(!).
love the vid too; think i need to start doing the same: setting cams at diff angles, & i tend talk myself through it anyway /may as well be teaching!.. **not to take away from what u do whatsoever; been at it myself close to a quarter century
Great info ...am actually going to do this on a family members vehicle.
Very detailed.
Thanks
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!
Outstanding video. I might do the same to my 80 series Lexus LX 450 following the manual specifications.
Ron; I think you have missed something on the rear differential. According to the Haynes Manual and the vehicle owners manual you also need to add a Friction Modifier to the Gear Lube before putting the 75W-140 in. I know this to be true because I once had the rear differential serviced by Firestone and they didn't add the friction modifier. The rear end then began grinding and I thought it was going out. I took it to the dealer since it was still under warranty and they added the friction modifier which fixed the problem. I am in the process of changing the fluid in everything and am adding 4 oz. of Lube Guard Limited Slip Supplement to the rear differential which is supposed to be an equivalent to the Mopar Friction Modifier recommended by Jeep. The manual doesn't say this is necessary on the front differential.
The Jeep in the video has an open differential and no friction modifier is needed. Friction modifier is added to limited slip differentials to prevent chatter, which you experienced. AMSOIL's additive is called Slip Lock. It may not be needed if you're using AMSOIL products. The following is from the AMSOIL Slip Lock data sheet: "NOTE: AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
How would I know if I need to add the friction modifier to the rear differential if I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty 4X4? I couldn’t find any info in my owners manual. Thank you in advance for your time!
@@COMtnPilot if you have the limited-slip dif, there should be a sticker on the dif or axle that says "trac-lok"
Thanks
Great video - will be changing the fluids in my Jeep this spring. Instead of removing the rear diff cover; could you use the pump in reverse; by adding a hose to the bottom and pumping the old fluid out of the rear diff? Might not get 100% of it, but should be able to get the vast majority of it.
Its probably better than not doing it at all, but I wouldn't suggest doing it by pumping the old fluid out through the fill hole. You won't get all the old fluid out. With the cover off you can squeegee out the cruddy stuff on the bottom with your finger, and also wipe out any of the metallic slime you can reach. There should be a magnet in the bottom that can be cleaned. It may look like a rubber refrigerator magnet with ridges, but those ridges are metallic sludge that's been picked up and needs to be cleaned off. That magnet is the only filter there is for the differential. All you're really doing is getting rid of the old oil and replacing with new and you'll do a lot better job of getting the old cleaned out by removing the cover and cleaning everything as good as possible. On the cover I've used sealants that have cure times from 1 hour to 24 hours so depending on what you end up getting, the vehicle will be down for some span of time so you need to plan ahead. Since you're looking at doing this in the spring and today it's late fall, you've obviously good at planning ahead. Thanks for the question. Good luck with your Jeep!!
Great video, but wow! this oil is expensive. Love the alignment pin. Will make a few.
I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching the video!!
What is the torque specs for the rear diff bolts. Front diff you should remove the fill plug FIRST before you remove the bottom drain plug. As you may not be able to get the fill plug off and then you would be without gear fluid in the front..
Great tip on removing the fill plug first. Good way to avoid a dilemma, or at least pick a more convenient time for one. Torque spec on the rear cover plate bolts is 30 ft/lbs. Thanks for the comment !
Don't know what the old oil was. This was the first diff lube change after obtaining the vehicle. Thanks!
أبو داحم
ابو داحم اش رايك بزيت امزوايل .. والله غيرت زيت القير من هذي الشركة .. والان يمكن اغير زيت الدفرنس تنصحني ولا لا
أبو داحم
يعطيك العافية
كانت معي نتعه في القير .. غيرت من زيت امزوايل راحت النتعه وتعشيقات اخف وافضل من اول
Nice job! Love the alignment pins! How do you love the SVG?
Thanks for the comment! The Severe Gear lineup is top notch, works great. Love the Easy Pack!!
Always take the fill plug out first because if you pull the drain plug first your screwed if ya can’t get the fill plug out.
I just take the fill plug out and use a mityvac manual fluid evacuator
Its a 2.3 gallon
Got it on Amazon
I use it on my 2008 jeep liberty to suction out the transmission fluid because there is no drain plug
But I also use it on front and rear differential and transfer case.
IN THE MANUAL IS: Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant (SAE 75W-90) or equivalent. For trailer
towing, the lubricant should be replaced with Mopar Synthetic Gear &
Axle Lubricant (SAE 75W-140) or equivalent. Models equipped with Trac-
Lok™ require a limited-slip additive....which one I choose?? SAE 75W90 or SAE75W140??? MY CAR IS LIBERTY 05 LIMITED 4X4
Actually both, with the 75W90 in the front and 75W140 in the rear. As you mention, Chrysler recommends 75W140 for towing. Virtually all of that vintage Liberty have a receiver hitch now due to the fuel tank recall, so they could easily be towing something anytime. If you have a limited slip differential, when you lift the rear end and turn a wheel, both will turn in the same direction. With an open differential they turn in opposite directions. AMSOIL does offer a differential additive called Slip Lock. When using AMSOIL Severe Gear differential lubricant, it’s generally not needed. Here’s AMSOIL’s guidance on that. "AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials.”
Thanks for the question!
Buona sera. Fate attenzione nel vedere alcuni video. In questo differenziale la jeep raccomanda esplicitamente il mopar e bisogna aggiungere 118 ml di additivo specifico. Alcuni tipi di olio la jeep li sconsiglia drasticamente
The Jeep in the video has an open differential and no friction modifier is needed. Friction modifier is added to limited slip differentials to prevent chatter, if needed. AMSOIL's additive is called Slip Lock. It may not be needed if you're using AMSOIL products. The following is from the AMSOIL Slip Lock data sheet: "NOTE: AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
Buopn giorno, ho risposto al video ma non per criticare la qualità amsoil che anche io uso per il motore. Riporto ciò che è riportato nel manuale officina della mia jeep cheroke kj libertyimmatricolata nel 2003. Il manuale riporta l'utilizzo esclusivo dell'olio mopar 75/140 all'anteriore e l'olio 75/ 90 al posteriore più l'aggiunta di 118 ml di additivo. Questo e quanto riporta, inoltre sconsiglia, almeno nel mio manuale, l'utilizzo di qualsiasi altro tipo di lubbrificante. In particolare sconsiglia l'utilizzo dell'olio detronII. Questo è quello riportato nel manuale officina del mio modello di auto, che è quello ripreso in questo video. Tutto qui, la mia è un osservazione non una critica@@midwestsynthetic
Thanks for the follow up comment. I appreciate the feedback!
Very good video! The same liberty limited 2012? Two quarters totally in differential? And in front, one quarter only? Thanks
The lookup guide shows 2.5 pints for the front and 4.2 pints for the rear. 4 quarts total. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!
Thank you !
Thank you so much!
Great video.
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!
Very well done. Thanks
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate that !!
Good info vid thanks for sharing!
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!
Is there a reason why the front diff cover wasn't taken off like the rear?
The front has a drain plug so it doesn't need to be removed, which makes it very handy. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!
I used ultra black gasket maker and the package says to wait a full 24hrs before adding fluids or using, is this necessary?
Yes, I'd follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Don't want the sealant to go soft or leak.
How many qts do I need? Just two bottles?
The spec calls for 4.2 pints in the rear so 3 bottles (quarts) would be the way to go to be sure you don't come up short. The front dif uses 2.5 pints so two bottles would be good for that. Thanks for checking out the video!
For the rear, would it also be possible to just pump the old oil out of the plug hole without having to take off the differential cover and then pump new oil back in? Or would there be a risk of leaving too much old oil in there?
I've never done it that way, so don't know how close you could get the tube to the bottom. How much you get out would be a good measure of determining if you were able to get the tube close to the bottom. However, you would not be able to wipe the crud from bottom or clean the magnet. Best is still to remove the cover plate if you don't have a plug. Thanks for the question!
I did that
I pumped it out using a mityvac
Got it on Amazon for about 130 dollars
I use it to suck out the transmission fluid and the front/rear differential and also the transfer case.
Why don't most people replace these fluids more often??
Out of site, out of mind mostly. If you have a unit with a drain plug, it's a very easy job. Pulling the back plate to drain may be a 24+ hour cycle depending on which RTV is used.
Nice video you got the link so I can get that line to put back the oil in the differential ?
Thanks for the question! Here's a link to the hand pump:
www.amsoil.com/p/bottle-hand-pump-g2039/?zo=5265385
However, if you don't already have the lubricant in bottles, a much better way to fill the differential is with the Easy-Pack, link here:
www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?zo=5265385
The Easy-Pack is a squeeze bag with snip off spout and works really slick for filling the differential. A number of products are available in this packing including ATF for applications like the transfer case. The bag is square on the bottom so the leftover sits on the shelf just like a bottle. Really cool idea and it works great.
Easy-Pack video:
ruclips.net/video/LGERD4VRXMQ/видео.html
Thanks again for watching and leaving a question!
Ok, i have 210k on my 2006 and I'm just gunna suck out as much as i can and refill.
What about the metal shaving and gunk on the bottom? How did it turn out?
I noticed the manufacturer recommends 75W-90 under normal driving conditions and 75W-140 for heavy duty conditions. What made you decide to go with 140 instead of 90? Mine has 130k. Would 140 be more beneficial at higher miles than 90?
Since there's a choice, 75W-140 for better protection with the heavier oil. The only downside would would be a drop in mileage that would be hard quantify. Most driving ends up being severe service anyway, trailer towing, city, hills. I use 75W-90 in the front. Most important thing is to just change it at recommended intervals. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
@@midwestsynthetic Is there a need for a friction modifier in the rear differential with the 75W-140 oil. I have a 2006 Limited Jeep Liberty 4WD.
Maybe, if it chatters in the corners. AMSOIL has an additive called Slip Lock. It is generally not needed if using AMSOIL Gear Lube. Here's what AMSOIL says about it: " AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Of course if you don't have a limited slip differential there would be no need for it anyway. Thanks for the question!
Failed to mention bolt size and torq specifications
The rear differential cover bolts are 5/16-18. Torque spec is 30 ft lb. Thanks !!
And torque spec on the front fill and drain plugs are both 15 ft lbs.
where can i get an alignment pin 5/16? I checked amazon but no luck
It's just a bolt with the head cut off. The really cool stuff you have to make yourself! Thanks for the comment!!
Can i ask a embarrassing question pls i have a kj and om not sure what the rear diff is iv been told a few different ones im still learning and getting used to American diffs i used to have a xj with dana 30 front and a dana 44 rear but i think somebody put the d44 on because i didmt think ya could get a xj standard with d44? So yeah the kj rear axle? Lmao
You can search the internet for jeep build sheet, and using your vin find the original configuration. According to my Haynes manual they used both the 198RBI and 8.25" diffs in 2002 and then the 8.25" for 2003 and later (KJ's). Good Luck!
@@midwestsynthetic brilliant thanks you very much
Sweet!
Thanks for the comment!!
That blues rubber that you put on it, what's it called, friend? Thanks
That's RTV silicone. You would want one that is suitable for differential fluid. Thanks for the question!
I was going to change the gear oil in both my 2003, 2 wheel drive Liberty and 1999 Subaru Forester can I used the same oil for both? 75w-90 or 75w-140 you recommend? I am not sure I can put the 75w-140 in the front and rear of the Subaru.
Thanks for the question! I just checked the AMSOIL lookup guide, the 2003 Jeep Liberty calls for 75W-140 in the rear (and the front for 4WD). The 1999 Subaru Forester 80W-90, 75W-90 or 75W-110 for both the front and rear. You’d need two different types to do both vehicles.
This the same for 2x4 and 4x4?
Yes, for the rear differential. Thanks for checking out the video!
Hey nice video, I bought a liberty just like this one, and it is in the same condition when it comes to rust, do you think this could cause any serious issues? Or is it something that can be cleaned? Especially the gas escape I am scare it could get holed or something does not seem such a thick metal.
Whether rust is an issue is really a judgement call, and of course some states have inspections. The tank is plastic but the straps are metal and worth taking a look at. The Liberty's had some recalls for corrosion on some suspension parts, like the lower ball joints and rear control arms. Recalls are always worth checking, might get some free work from the dealer! The Liberty's are a cheap(sometimes), easy to work on 4X4 so worth keeping around as long as they're roadworthy. Unless you're in the desert it's going to be tough to find a clean one now. Lot's of used one's coming from auctions. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! Have fun with the Liberty!!
I brought a 04 liberty 3.7L automatic four-wheel drive. Believe it or not there is NO RUST AT ALL, ... BUT now I have a torque converter clutch solenoid issue, I'm up in the air on want to do,, it'll cost more than I paid for the car to get a torque converter put in
Do you sell amsoil? Can you ship?
AMSOIL products can be purchased from AMSOIL and ship from a number of different warehouses around the USA so delivery is usually quick. If you get there from one of the links in the video description or from MidwestSynthetic.com it helps support the channel. Thanks for the question and interest in AMSOIL products!
Hi, how much oil for from differential?
The front diff holds a little more than a quart, about 2.5 pints. The rear holds about little more than 2 quarts, about 4.5 pints. Thanks for the question.
whats the torque spec on those bolts?
The rear differential cover bolts on the Liberty are 30 ft lbs. Thanks for the question.
@@midwestsynthetic thanks for the reply
Friction additive required? Anybody?
Maybe, if you have a good limited slip differential and it chatters. AMSOIL has an additive called Slip Lock that can be added, if needed. Here's what AMSOIL says about it: "AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials." Thanks for the question!
Thanks!!
only if you have the trac-lok limited-slip dif
Gear lube really stinks, made me gag when I did it.