I did mine yesterday 2008 Jeep Liberty 4WD After taking out all the original bolts I noticed every single one of them had sealant on them Down to the base of the bolt on the threaded side I was going to use new bolts but they were a little longer then the factory bolts So I cleaned them all up and got all the original sealant off them I then used sealant on every single one of them ( 13 ) I also had a problem with one bolt threading but not locking down Looked it up and apparently this is another common problem Because it’s an aluminum block Some people use thin copper wire and put strands in to the hole to make up the gap And be able to lock it down Some tap a new hole Mine was the hole right next to the exhaust on the back side I used some aluminum foil wrapped on to the bolt put locktite on both the outside of the aluminum foil and on the threads itself I got it to lock down pretty tight I also put sealant on the head of the bolt Drove it for a half an hour an no leaks or drips I’m hoping it’s done The oil pan is next and it’s a horror show I’m probably going to have to pay a mechanic to do it Jeep sucks
Per the service guide, before installing 2nd bolt on Driver Side, the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the torque converter clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replentish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive. Here you can use Loctite Threadlocker Blue or Permatex Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue.
With a jeep liberty that has never had a transmission fluid or filter would you? The transmission shifts fine . Never been beating on. Running strong at 315k miles
No vid, sorry. I've had 3 KJ's but no KK. If you have a tube with a cap, Dorman makes a service dipstick. You'd also need a way to check the trans temp, like a dash gauge or a scan tool that read trans temp, and a chart with the proper level by temp. The proper fill level varies with fluid temperature. Thanks for the question!
Whats your thought on taking radiator outlet line off while engine running and putting new fluid in to flush out old fluid from torque convertor after filter change? Your the first to explain why sealer on 2nd bolt on DS, thanks for posting!!!
I don't think the torque converter holds too much. My daughters pan was leaking to the point it wouldn't shift. I had a nice puddle on the driveway. I replace the pan and refilled with Amsoil OE Atf. It shifts great now. It is rated at a 8.8 qt capacity and I put in 7 qts. In spring I will do a drain and refill with signature series. Thanks for the video Midwest!!!
Couple things to check, 1. Does it have enough fluid?, 2. Was the filter installed properly? The filter is also the pickup tube so it needs to be installed with the new o-ring that goes where the filter plugs in, and the old o-ring needs to be removed if it didn't come out with the old filter. Thanks for the question. Good luck with your project.
@@midwestsyntheticon the 3.7 -13 hole pan the oil dip stick will work for reading the transmission fluid You want to be in the hash marks Videos here on RUclips show you
I've been using AMSOIL Signature Series ATF in my Jeeps for years. It's a top notch synthetic fluid, and meets the ATF+4 spec, plus many others. This is also great from an inventory standpoint since I can use the same fluid in the transmission, transfer case and power steering in my Jeeps, and my 2008 F150 uses the same for all three as well. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Happy New Year!!
@@midwestsynthetic100% agree Amsoil hands down is the best Their ATF fluid beats anything out there One of the most important benefits is that it has a much higher flash point Meaning you won’t burn the tranny fluid fluid It also has great detergents and will outlast any brand by tens of thousand of miles as it pertains to its life expectancy
It would be best to use a sealant. I used Permatex high temp thread sealant on 3 different Jeeps with the same transmission with many fluid swaps over the years and it worked fine. The Chrysler recommended product is called Mopar Lock & Seal.
I use a good gasket (no sealant) that comes with the filter. I've seem some pans with RTV only, which probably is OK if you don't get extra inside the transmission, although it would probably get picked up by the filter. The new gasket is most likely going to be folded and stuffed in the box with the filter so it's good to flatten it before use. Thanks for watching and leaving a question.
@@midwestsynthetic Thanks. I'm going to do it without sealant as I've tried twice with RTV and the ATF-4 seems to attack the silicone. The gasket is similar to rubber so should flex as needed without springing out and leaking.
I've changed it twice since I've had it, at 83K and 113K (30K interval). It's at about 118K today. No clue how it was treated before but none of the fluids looked too bad when I went through it the first time so the prior owner(s) must have done some maintenance. Thanks for the question and watching the vid!
I checked the 2006 Jeep Liberty manual, It says 60,000 for fleet and towing. No mention other than that. Haynes says 30,000 normally, 15,000 for city, hills, trailer towing. I've been changing the Jeeps at 30,000. A single pan drop and refill replaces about 1/2 to 1/3 of the fluid. This one has a dipstick so it's easy to service yourself. Thanks for the comment!
I would would stick with the recommended thread sealant (per Haynes: Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or equivalent). I don't know that RTV would be a good sealant on the threads and you definitely don't want it in the oil galleries in the transmission. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!
BY FAR the best how-to video on the subject. Thanks so much!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate the comment!!
Well done - thanks so much for pointing out the special treatment of bolt #5 (as its called in the shop manual)
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the comment!!
I did mine yesterday
2008 Jeep Liberty 4WD
After taking out all the original bolts
I noticed every single one of them had sealant on them
Down to the base of the bolt on the threaded side
I was going to use new bolts but they were a little longer then the factory bolts
So I cleaned them all up and got all the original sealant off them
I then used sealant on every single one of them ( 13 )
I also had a problem with one bolt threading but not locking down
Looked it up and apparently this is another common problem
Because it’s an aluminum block
Some people use thin copper wire and put strands in to the hole to make up the gap
And be able to lock it down
Some tap a new hole
Mine was the hole right next to the exhaust on the back side
I used some aluminum foil wrapped on to the bolt put locktite on both the outside of the aluminum foil and on the threads itself
I got it to lock down pretty tight
I also put sealant on the head of the bolt
Drove it for a half an hour an no leaks or drips
I’m hoping it’s done
The oil pan is next and it’s a horror show
I’m probably going to have to pay a mechanic to do it
Jeep sucks
Per the service guide, before installing 2nd bolt on Driver Side, the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the torque converter clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replentish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive. Here you can use Loctite Threadlocker Blue or Permatex Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue.
Why not just use thread locker on everything ? ( Blue )
2nd from the front driver side bolt needed sealer ??? What. Was that about ~~ a chronic leaker ?? Very good video - THANKS !
That particular bolt hole goes to an oil gallery. That's why the sealant on one bolt. That's for watching and leaving a comment !!
If you don't mind me asking what kind of sealant did you use on the bolt? Want to make sure I get the right stuff.
I used gasket maker to seal it. I thought it was a common bad threaded spot. Though it was stripped prior to work. But will watch it.
Thanks, i shall be trying this doon
With a jeep liberty that has never had a transmission fluid or filter would you? The transmission shifts fine . Never been beating on. Running strong at 315k miles
Past time for a change, but avoid those 'fluid flush' at the ripoff oil change places!
260k miles and I think I need to replace my filter now.
Yikes
Do you have a video for the 2008-2012 KK Version? I have the 2012 and there's no dipstick. Annoying.
No vid, sorry. I've had 3 KJ's but no KK. If you have a tube with a cap, Dorman makes a service dipstick. You'd also need a way to check the trans temp, like a dash gauge or a scan tool that read trans temp, and a chart with the proper level by temp. The proper fill level varies with fluid temperature. Thanks for the question!
Why does the second bolt from the front drivers side need sealant?
That bolt hole goes into an oil gallery so it needs sealant to prevent seepage around the threads. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!
I would like to know the quantity (gallon) of transmission oil for the Jeep Liberty 2012 ( Automatic gearbox)
It takes about 5-6 quarts so 2 gallons is needed. Thanks for the question!
Whats your thought on taking radiator outlet line off while engine running and putting new fluid in to flush out old fluid from torque convertor after filter change?
Your the first to explain why sealer on 2nd bolt on DS, thanks for posting!!!
I would just do another drain and fill to get more fluid swapped out. Less mess and risk. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
I don't think the torque converter holds too much. My daughters pan was leaking to the point it wouldn't shift. I had a nice puddle on the driveway. I replace the pan and refilled with Amsoil OE Atf. It shifts great now. It is rated at a 8.8 qt capacity and I put in 7 qts. In spring I will do a drain and refill with signature series. Thanks for the video Midwest!!!
Thank you sir👍🏾
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment !
@@midwestsynthetic Thank you for giving me the inspiration as a woman to do repairs on my Jeep😅
Great video
I have done this transmission oil change and filter and now the jeep won't move or go in any gear what do I do or check now
Couple things to check,
1. Does it have enough fluid?,
2. Was the filter installed properly? The filter is also the pickup tube so it needs to be installed with the new o-ring that goes where the filter plugs in, and the old o-ring needs to be removed if it didn't come out with the old filter.
Thanks for the question. Good luck with your project.
What ended up being the problem?
What was the problem, lady?
How many quarts of transmission fluid does it needs after doing service? Jeep liberty 2005 4x4
It will take about 5 quarts.
I have heard the engine dipstick will read correctly for the transmission. Is this correct?
Absolutely NOT!! The transmission dipstick (if there is one) is a dealer item specific to your VIN.
@@midwestsyntheticon the 3.7 -13 hole pan the oil dip stick will work for reading the transmission fluid
You want to be in the hash marks
Videos here on RUclips show you
how many liters of oil goes into a jeep liberty 3.7
About 5 quarts to drain and fill the automatic transmission. 5 liters would be good too. Thanks.
Thank you
with how many NM we put in the torque wrench ???
20nm
@@greensheen8759 how much valvoline take in , hiw much litres??
Umm thats the wrong fluid for a mopar 42RLE trans for a 2006 jeep liberty. You are to use “ONLY” ATF+4 trans fluid. Just thought id let you know.
I've been using AMSOIL Signature Series ATF in my Jeeps for years. It's a top notch synthetic fluid, and meets the ATF+4 spec, plus many others. This is also great from an inventory standpoint since I can use the same fluid in the transmission, transfer case and power steering in my Jeeps, and my 2008 F150 uses the same for all three as well. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Happy New Year!!
Car manufactures aren't in the lubricant business, the owners manual likley says the transmission fluid doesn't even have to be replaced.
@@midwestsynthetic100% agree
Amsoil hands down is the best
Their ATF fluid beats anything out there
One of the most important benefits is that it has a much higher flash point
Meaning you won’t burn the tranny fluid fluid
It also has great detergents and will outlast any brand by tens of thousand of miles as it pertains to its life expectancy
Says the guy that is looking up how to do it... Mkaaay
@@albowrxnope just trolling dick heads like you
My torque wrenches go from 25-250?🤷♂️
You need the smaller wrench. Sucks having to buy two, I found that out.
Would the Blue Tread locker work for the #2 Pan Bolt?
It would be best to use a sealant. I used Permatex high temp thread sealant on 3 different Jeeps with the same transmission with many fluid swaps over the years and it worked fine. The Chrysler recommended product is called Mopar Lock & Seal.
Do you use a sealant around the pan edge and on the gasket where it mates with the transmission?
I use a good gasket (no sealant) that comes with the filter. I've seem some pans with RTV only, which probably is OK if you don't get extra inside the transmission, although it would probably get picked up by the filter. The new gasket is most likely going to be folded and stuffed in the box with the filter so it's good to flatten it before use. Thanks for watching and leaving a question.
@@midwestsynthetic Thanks. I'm going to do it without sealant as I've tried twice with RTV and the ATF-4 seems to attack the silicone. The gasket is similar to rubber so should flex as needed without springing out and leaking.
Do jeep libertys have a shift sianoide?
yes
JEEP, WHY DON'T YOU FIT DRAIN PLUGS ?
How many quarts of fluid u put back in
It takes about 5-6 quarts to drain and fill.
@@midwestsynthetic thanks
What are the best oil for Jeep Liberty
The best is AMSOIL Signature Series in the appropriate viscosity for your particular engine. Thanks for the question!
Is this as good as the mopar recommended on the manual?
AMSOIL Signature Series ATF is a top notch product and meets the Mopar ATF+4 spec and any others. Thanks for the question!
Did you use thread locker on the filter bolts? If so, do you need a high temp thread locker?
No thread lock on the filter. One bolt on the pan needs sealant. Thanks for the question!
@@midwestsynthetic what brand sealant?
Permatex high temp thread sealant is what was used here. Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive is the Chrysler product.
🌈🦋🌻ThankYou
Very helpful to check fluid!
How many miles on the jeep? is this it's first change?
I've changed it twice since I've had it, at 83K and 113K (30K interval). It's at about 118K today. No clue how it was treated before but none of the fluids looked too bad when I went through it the first time so the prior owner(s) must have done some maintenance. Thanks for the question and watching the vid!
@@midwestsynthetic AtF+4 is supposed to be a "LIfetime Fluid" good for over 100K according to the manual.
I checked the 2006 Jeep Liberty manual, It says 60,000 for fleet and towing. No mention other than that. Haynes says 30,000 normally, 15,000 for city, hills, trailer towing. I've been changing the Jeeps at 30,000. A single pan drop and refill replaces about 1/2 to 1/3 of the fluid. This one has a dipstick so it's easy to service yourself. Thanks for the comment!
@@thedavesofourlives1 do not forget when time should be care too. Please!
Can I use rtf instead of sealant
I would would stick with the recommended thread sealant (per Haynes: Mopar Lock & Seal Adhesive or equivalent). I don't know that RTV would be a good sealant on the threads and you definitely don't want it in the oil galleries in the transmission. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!
I use nothing but Mopar ATF+4
Doesn't hurt to wear safety glasses and breathe through your nose doing this of work.