The one thing that you could have done is drill a hole at the end of the crack before starting the welding. That ensures it won't propagate further when you start to introduce heat and stress to it. Overall that is a really good restoration. Nice work.
Excellent, most impressive!!! That vice just said, "THNX, I'm home!!!" It never had it so good! My favorite toy box shop ever. Thnx Chris!!! Always a pleasure to let us come and visit.
Nice job on functionally restoring the vise! I'm the same, restore a tool so its functional again and put it to work! Good job on the cast iron welding! I would definitely enjoy you tackling other tool restorations!
Big beautiful vise. Very nicely restoratioing Chris. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. Don't Die. God bless.
One thing that's really important is to drill a hole at the end of the crack to eliminate the potential stress riser. I would have ground that crack all the way down to the bottom. If you get porosity, you HAVE to grind it out and start over. Welding over top of it is not what you want to do.
The Chas Parkers have a tendency to crack the head off the movable jaw. I've seen sooo many with that defect and have a nice big 6" that was all welded up with nickle. Nice vise, stronger now than it was new and I wouldn't want to give it up. Just watch it if you're really cranking down on something.
Needle scalers are great for peening the welds and cleaning the slag. They are also great for giving cast metal a texture to look more natural under the paint.
I just got myself a Charles Parker vice number 259 and it has a cracked back as well but it is actually missing material in the crack and I’m looking at how to properly fix that myself
If when welding cast iron with nickel rod but you can't get a clamp on it to close the cracks just use the rod's contraction; Put in a tack but don't peen it, just let it pull your gap tighter. Then ad another tack or two taking your time and check the alignment. You may have to grind out the earlier tacks as you go to allow the crack to shrink more. Proceed to weld using short (1" or so) welds and use pre & post heat and peening. I used this method to repaire a 2 foot long crack in an antique iron cauldron that had been left full of water to freeze. I only welded on the inside and the crack pulled up so tight it was barely visible on the outside. That was in 1983 and it's still holding.
NO es una restauración, PERO SI es una labor de recuperación de esta bella herramienta. "Ya no las hacen como antes". Un equipo de 1867 segun podemos ver en el cuerpo, hoy están reclicados en cualquier cantidad de cosas que ni idea tenemos¡¡. Este TORNILLO DE BANCO (así lo conocemos en México) ha sido resucitado de entre los muertos. Felicitaciones señor.
When I fix vises I do preheat but you may not have to. Quality vises such as these are not cast-iron it’s Cast-steel it welds just fine with a mig welder. Great video!
Pro Tip. To increase the fluid level in your rust remover dip tub, you can introduce ‘non-reactive’ materials such as glass marbles, certain stones such clean river rock. Or just poly bag the parts and remove the air so the liquid contacts all surfaces. The second method is not as effective unless you continue to remove the gas that accumulates inside because of the the chemical reaction between the rust and the rust remover. 👍nice video
I have the exact same issue now with a Monarch 220 Lions Head. I've tried everything to get the vise apart with no luck. I've been nervous to try the bottle jack that I may break it.??
Nice video. I always learn something from watching you. The cast iron repairs are always a little scary. Is the hole for the spindle nut retaining pin on the side near “Pat”? That’s a great addition to any shop!
Chris, Out of curiosity did you consider dye penetrant testing to make sure you got all of the crack? Along with that, did you consider drill shopping the crack to assure the crack didn't propagate when you started adding heat. When you were trying to free the vise did you consider using a pancake jack between the jaws? This would have placed the force closer to being parallel to where the vise was binding. Your work is very good. I am glad your restoration is being done to put the vise back into service. My guess is your new vice is going to outlast you and your children. Bob
Never seen jaw faces that are pinned in place, that was new for me. Nice job on pinning the screw box in place, it needs to float a small bit so it doesn't break under extreme force, but it doesn't need to float out the back and punching it out from below should be easy peasy in 20 or 30 years.
Overall it was a pretty decent effort no question about it. Something I would have liked to have seen would have been on the handle for the crank with the rounded ends instead of welding the one back on it would have been nice if you could have threaded them. That way that it could be removable fairly easily if you ever need to get the thing out again. It is definitely a bit of a beast though although I'm much more partial to the bullet Vise on your table just behind it
Shoot I don’t know if I’d ever totally trust that piece.. no disrespect at all. You did it how I’ve seen other cast iron welded. But that’s a bad spot to have been weakened.. I think it’ll be okay tho. The more I see the repair the more I think it’ll be fine. Damn i really like that Vice. Look how much work went into the meatball. They built cool stuff back in the day.
Your guess is Educational for us. Great restore my friend as you learn we learn . Oh crap I was the number 666 on the likes here . Let us Pray , I cast you out evil spirit.. Haha can't take any chances😆😆😆
Muriatic acid for concrete etching is inexpensive and really rips out pepper spots in metal. Super corrosive and generates a lot of dangerous fumes when applied, this process has to done outdoors with proper PPE. A bucket of water with a box of baking soda will neutralize your project effectively. Pick up a jug at a big box home improvement store and try it out on a small rusty steel part. You will be impressed!
All you did was a put a bandaid onto a cut that needed stitches. You need to drill out a hole where the crack ends on both sides. And with Cast Iron you don’t weld it. You use brazening to repair the crack.
Cast iron can be repaired three ways. Brazing as you mentioned, arc welding using a high nickel content rod as was done here, and finally fusion welding with a gas torch and cast iron rod. I’ve done all three.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
The one thing that you could have done is drill a hole at the end of the crack before starting the welding. That ensures it won't propagate further when you start to introduce heat and stress to it. Overall that is a really good restoration. Nice work.
Yeah that probably would’ve been better huh.
And to think, Charles Parker turned out some of the finest side-by-side shotguns ever manufactured. They are prized by collectors to this day.
Excellent, most impressive!!! That vice just said, "THNX, I'm home!!!" It never had it so good!
My favorite toy box shop ever. Thnx Chris!!! Always a pleasure to let us come and visit.
I collect Parker Vises and that beast is beautiful. Great job bringing it back to life.
Very well done and I think the utilitarian finish is the right approach. I bet the guys who originally made this nice would heartily approve as well 👍
nice repair.
Love to see old tools saved from the scrapyard. Nice job!
this was super helpful as I have an old cracked vise I want to fix up as well. Thanks!
Love the old Parker vises, built to last another 100 years.
Awesome work! Love the voice-over…
Great job.. Love that Wilton back there. Someday I hope to own one.
Great job on the vise repair. I really enjoy your channel, you have really good content to show and share.
Nice job on functionally restoring the vise! I'm the same, restore a tool so its functional again and put it to work! Good job on the cast iron welding! I would definitely enjoy you tackling other tool restorations!
What a beast!! And fantastic restore Chris!!!
Although it is not perfect restore, yet I was expecting perfection of you as always. Bless you
Big beautiful vise. Very nicely restoratioing Chris. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. Don't Die. God bless.
One thing that's really important is to drill a hole at the end of the crack to eliminate the potential stress riser. I would have ground that crack all the way down to the bottom. If you get porosity, you HAVE to grind it out and start over. Welding over top of it is not what you want to do.
Epic work, absolute beast.. makes my little vice job I want to do tiny in comparison 👍👍👍
Fantastic job and video! Keep cranking!
The Chas Parkers have a tendency to crack the head off the movable jaw. I've seen sooo many with that defect and have a nice big 6" that was all welded up with nickle. Nice vise, stronger now than it was new and I wouldn't want to give it up. Just watch it if you're really cranking down on something.
Awesome craftsmanship all around.
Exelente trabajo . Un saludo de Argentina a todos . Felicitaciones
Nice restoration, it is very satisfying saving a good piece of equipment. 👍 Well done video.
Needle scalers are great for peening the welds and cleaning the slag. They are also great for giving cast metal a texture to look more natural under the paint.
I watched a video right after I did this project about peening welds with a scaler, definitely going to try that next time!
Nice repair man!
Nice vise, I have two very large vises, one I believe is six inch jaws, the other is eight inch I believe.
Such a great restoration
Great video really enjoyed it fantastic work with the vice looks spot on. Absolutely love your workshop 👍👍
I just got myself a Charles Parker vice number 259 and it has a cracked back as well but it is actually missing material in the crack and I’m looking at how to properly fix that myself
If when welding cast iron with nickel rod but you can't get a clamp on it to close the cracks just use the rod's contraction; Put in a tack but don't peen it, just let it pull your gap tighter. Then ad another tack or two taking your time and check the alignment. You may have to grind out the earlier tacks as you go to allow the crack to shrink more. Proceed to weld using short (1" or so) welds and use pre & post heat and peening. I used this method to repaire a 2 foot long crack in an antique iron cauldron that had been left full of water to freeze. I only welded on the inside and the crack pulled up so tight it was barely visible on the outside. That was in 1983 and it's still holding.
bottlejack great idea
Very good job.
NO es una restauración, PERO SI es una labor de recuperación de esta bella herramienta. "Ya no las hacen como antes". Un equipo de 1867 segun podemos ver en el cuerpo, hoy están reclicados en cualquier cantidad de cosas que ni idea tenemos¡¡. Este TORNILLO DE BANCO (así lo conocemos en México) ha sido resucitado de entre los muertos. Felicitaciones señor.
When I fix vises I do preheat but you may not have to. Quality vises such as these are not cast-iron it’s Cast-steel
it welds just fine with a mig welder. Great video!
great information. wonder how the nut was originally locked in
Great video and rebuild. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Pro Tip. To increase the fluid level in your rust remover dip tub, you can introduce ‘non-reactive’ materials such as glass marbles, certain stones such clean river rock. Or just poly bag the parts and remove the air so the liquid contacts all surfaces. The second method is not as effective unless you continue to remove the gas that accumulates inside because of the the chemical reaction between the rust and the rust remover.
👍nice video
DUDEZILLA, That vise is HUUUUUGE!
Good Job
Nicely done. Massive 💪💪💪
gotta coupla old big Reeds. finished one, the other is on the bench. gotta get a big Wilton some day
I used the NICAD rod to repair the vice but it was not strong enough to put force like new.
I have the exact same issue now with a Monarch 220 Lions Head. I've tried everything to get the vise apart with no luck. I've been nervous to try the bottle jack that I may break it.??
Nice video. I always learn something from watching you. The cast iron repairs are always a little scary. Is the hole for the spindle nut retaining pin on the side near “Pat”? That’s a great addition to any shop!
Great job. Should have welded the drilled hole in the dynamic jaw as well
Very nice job. You should stop messing around with this small stuff and get a big one.
Chris,
Out of curiosity did you consider dye penetrant testing to make sure you got all of the crack? Along with that, did you consider drill shopping the crack to assure the crack didn't propagate when you started adding heat.
When you were trying to free the vise did you consider using a pancake jack between the jaws? This would have placed the force closer to being parallel to where the vise was binding.
Your work is very good. I am glad your restoration is being done to put the vise back into service. My guess is your new vice is going to outlast you and your children.
Bob
Never seen jaw faces that are pinned in place, that was new for me. Nice job on pinning the screw box in place, it needs to float a small bit so it doesn't break under extreme force, but it doesn't need to float out the back and punching it out from below should be easy peasy in 20 or 30 years.
I don’t know what you paid for it but great buy and even better great save. That is one huge vice nice add to your shop.
Mix 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF in a spray bottle. Use to loosen rusted parts.
heat control is all you have to know and prep clean keep part hot keep cooling slow you should see methuselah's hair grow
you know someone was using the dynamic jaw slide (?) as an anvil and hence the crack.
Love the vice restoration videos! Do you sell them when finished or just add to the collection?
how much you pay for that Parker at the fleamarket
Overall it was a pretty decent effort no question about it. Something I would have liked to have seen would have been on the handle for the crank with the rounded ends instead of welding the one back on it would have been nice if you could have threaded them. That way that it could be removable fairly easily if you ever need to get the thing out again. It is definitely a bit of a beast though although I'm much more partial to the bullet Vise on your table just behind it
Shoot I don’t know if I’d ever totally trust that piece.. no disrespect at all. You did it how I’ve seen other cast iron welded. But that’s a bad spot to have been weakened..
I think it’ll be okay tho. The more I see the repair the more I think it’ll be fine. Damn i really like that Vice. Look how much work went into the meatball. They built cool stuff back in the day.
if it was me I'd replace that Wilton vise with the Parker
Your guess is Educational for us. Great restore my friend as you learn we learn . Oh crap I was the number 666 on the likes here . Let us Pray , I cast you out evil spirit.. Haha can't take any chances😆😆😆
If i was you i would put the back tip of the slide in another vice ans close up the cracke and pull out the welder
Stainless steel screws will stretch. I would have used something different.
Muriatic acid for concrete etching is inexpensive and really rips out pepper spots in metal. Super corrosive and generates a lot of dangerous fumes when applied, this process has to done outdoors with proper PPE. A bucket of water with a box of baking soda will neutralize your project effectively.
Pick up a jug at a big box home improvement store and try it out on a small rusty steel part. You will be impressed!
But it’s not made by WD40
👍
👍👍
👍👍👍👍
Braze would have probably have been stronger.
watch your heat over the entire part cold jaws and hot tail won't work
SEIZED... Spelling is EVERYTHING. LOL
💯👍👍👌
All you did was a put a bandaid onto a cut that needed stitches. You need to drill out a hole where the crack ends on both sides. And with Cast Iron you don’t weld it. You use brazening to repair the crack.
Cast iron can be repaired three ways. Brazing as you mentioned, arc welding using a high nickel content rod as was done here, and finally fusion welding with a gas torch and cast iron rod. I’ve done all three.
99% percent nickel rod 5%flux 5%Steel some have copper which burns off
Your video looks & sounds more like a 'WD-40 Commercial' than a vise restoration...shame
👍