Been using my F4s and F4e for 5 years now. Best damn camera I ever got to know. Perfect ergonomics, the sculpting of the body makes it so nice to hold. The weight actually makes it feel so good to hold. Shutter sound is too good. AF is actually pretty fast in my opinion. Love all the manual dials on top. Really one of the best cameras out there, period. It really feels like a flagship camera. I actually kind of wish there was a digital camera like this....
I was just thinking about that as I was scrolling down the comments! I too wish Nikon would use the same body structure / buttons and dials as they are now but in a digital camera. That would be a camera I would pay for. Either way my F4 will always become the high light of any camera. It’s just the feel of this pup that screams PRO!!!!
Thumbs from me .. F4s fantastic bit of engineering love mine . Always look forward to these new devolpers reviews etc .. Need to try some ,ID11 guy myself..
In-camera metering has always been calibrated for colour transparencies, which need to be toward under exposure. For B&W, I always add a stop or use a handheld meter.
Absolutely love the Nikon f4, it just feels right. Was printing some birds photos yesterday shot using 85mm 1.8, gem of a lens. Want to try out the 80-200mm 2.8 based on your recommendation.
When I have that 85/1.8 on pretty much any Nikon body, it’s always very hard to remove it and change to another Nikkor. Not physically hard, it’s just that I want to keep shooting with it, as it’s so incredible.. but an 80-200 is extremely handy for sudden subjects like birds or people’s actions, from a distance.
When well stained, the negatives can have a "thin" look compaired with the very black of traditional negatives. I wonderred about your scan and invert method. Whether Flatbed or Mirrorless I alway set the contrast as low as possible to keep all the detail then set the desired contrast in post with stained negatives. The scanner or inversion can loose shadow or highlight details. Other minor details which may or may not be relevant; What water do you use for your developer and fixer? I have used deionised in the past but now use "Tesco Ashborne English" although slightly acidic it has a very low residual solids. Mainstreem developers have chemicals to compensate for tap water. It is recommended that A and B are diluted immediately prior to adding the the development tank as it oxidises quickly. You did not state the fixer used. If acidic it will dissolve the stain leaving a thin negative. I use a "home brew" neutral fixer although an alkaly may be better but may not keep as well. Keep trying, the results are worth the effort. Beware that some film bases are not stable with Pyro type developers. Ilford and Kodak seem fine but film with the very clear film plastic seem suseptable.
As usual I truly enjoy your love for the F4s. Maybe chunky but I tell you what… it is drop dead gorgeous!!!
Been using my F4s and F4e for 5 years now. Best damn camera I ever got to know. Perfect ergonomics, the sculpting of the body makes it so nice to hold. The weight actually makes it feel so good to hold. Shutter sound is too good. AF is actually pretty fast in my opinion. Love all the manual dials on top. Really one of the best cameras out there, period. It really feels like a flagship camera. I actually kind of wish there was a digital camera like this....
If there was a digital camera like this we couldn't afford it! The Z9 feels a lot cheaper for little short of £5000!
I was just thinking about that as I was scrolling down the comments! I too wish Nikon would use the same body structure / buttons and dials as they are now but in a digital camera. That would be a camera I would pay for. Either way my F4 will always become the high light of any camera. It’s just the feel of this pup that screams PRO!!!!
Congrats and thanks for this video !
Thumbs from me .. F4s fantastic bit of engineering love mine . Always look forward to these new devolpers reviews etc .. Need to try some ,ID11 guy myself..
I think that this is a developer one needs to go deep into to get the maximum quality. I can see the potential already mind.
“Nikkonium” ha ha, love it! My three or four F4s are just lovely to use.. weight be damned.
Muscles soon build 🙂
I swear that's the material they used back in the day. 🙂
In-camera metering has always been calibrated for colour transparencies, which need to be toward under exposure.
For B&W, I always add a stop or use a handheld meter.
Absolutely love the Nikon f4, it just feels right. Was printing some birds photos yesterday shot using 85mm 1.8, gem of a lens. Want to try out the 80-200mm 2.8 based on your recommendation.
80-200 is such a peach, you won't regret it if you get one 🙂
When I have that 85/1.8 on pretty much any Nikon body, it’s always very hard to remove it and change to another Nikkor. Not physically hard, it’s just that I want to keep shooting with it, as it’s so incredible.. but an 80-200 is extremely handy for sudden subjects like birds or people’s actions, from a distance.
I always use an orange filter with FP4 in sunny conditions - gives that extra oomph contrast needs imho
When well stained, the negatives can have a "thin" look compaired with the very black of traditional negatives. I wonderred about your scan and invert method. Whether Flatbed or Mirrorless I alway set the contrast as low as possible to keep all the detail then set the desired contrast in post with stained negatives. The scanner or inversion can loose shadow or highlight details.
Other minor details which may or may not be relevant;
What water do you use for your developer and fixer? I have used deionised in the past but now use "Tesco Ashborne English" although slightly acidic it has a very low residual solids. Mainstreem developers have chemicals to compensate for tap water.
It is recommended that A and B are diluted immediately prior to adding the the development tank as it oxidises quickly.
You did not state the fixer used. If acidic it will dissolve the stain leaving a thin negative. I use a "home brew" neutral fixer although an alkaly may be better but may not keep as well.
Keep trying, the results are worth the effort. Beware that some film bases are not stable with Pyro type developers. Ilford and Kodak seem fine but film with the very clear film plastic seem suseptable.
Did you use an Alkali Fix ?
I did 🙂