haha! Yeah it can be a lot, but for hybrids, they will be ok! The roots are already adapated and with new roots coming, I know this won't fail so I got very thorough.
Wow, thanks for walking through this repot for us. I can't believe how many roots were in that pot! After seeing this, I think I need to address some of my s/h orchids that are root-bound.
Thanks for watching Natalie! This doesn't always happen, but I find that when it's so crowded in the pot, it suffocates the roots and eventually they die off, so best to freshen it up and give them some air vs plopping them into a bigger pot where the air gaps won't be present in the center.
Thanks so much Shirley! 😊 I will be getting through the collection little by little from now till the end of spring. This was definitely one of the most challenging ones!
Clearly painstaking. So helpful you showed 1st repot and did this one. A semi hydro myth dispelled in just potting up. I noticed you did no put LECA touching the new roots. It's higher up even with pebbles. Your thinking why? Beautiful repot.
Admittedly I ran out of clean leca. Lol! The roots will be able to grow down without a problem, though more leca would've been optimal for higher humidity levels up top. I may top with more pebbles, but I think it'll work out. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I am going to repot my yellow bird orchid in semi-hydro 🪴🌸💜 You made my mind up. I absolutely love watching your videos and I subscribed a month or so ago 😀 Very educational so THANK YOU 😊 I do have a question 🙋🏻♀️ how does Phals do in semi-hydro? I have so many and love them all 🌸💜🪴
I'm so glad you enjoyed watching! Thanks for leaving me a comment :) My phals do well in semi hydro. With that said I only grow the complex hybrids in semi hydro. I have the summer blooming phals in moss because it's less cooling to the roots and sometimes in winter I crack a window open to cool the space, but otherwise, I'd say in many indoor environments semi hydro seems to work well for folks I've spoken to in the north east. Good luck with your yellow bird repot, it'll do great :)
It was, but repots with leca are not all like this. This was a very vigorous hybrid and I waited too long to repot. If I had done it a few months earlier, I wouldn't have been easier. Next week I'll post another leca repot that was smoother. Took me 5 minutes. Thanks for watching!
Hi Nicole, I am wondering if large chunks of "something" added to the leca would help give more air space to the roots ? Adyasha uses large chunks of charcoal with success she says.
Yes, larger chunks can help, that's a good point! I've used pieces of lava rock in the past with success as well. I'm learning how to tweak as I do these repots a year later. Lol. For now the biggest mistake was using a pot that was too small.
Hi and thank you for the video! During the first 15 months did you ever empty the leca and then put it crack in the pot? I know it would disrupt the root system, but would that keep the roots from getting so attached to the leca.
No issues with ph so far! I test it every now and then and find it to be at an acceptable level in my environment. I did a semi hydro video guide discussing this in more detail. Thank you so much for watching ❤️
There were no longer air gaps present, as I explained, if you repot an orchid this root bound, roots will gradually decline over time. Opening it up ensures air gets in and those roots will stay alive longer.
I don’t understand this S/H deal with orchids other than maybe Phalaenopsis or some other thirsty ones. Most of the others like cattleyas want a dry/wet cycle like they grow in nature. We have enough issues just trying to grow in pots period. You always see where these folks couple years later, their plants roots are dying and rotting. So they try to switch to bark - and now the plants we They shouldn’t stay wet constantly ie see all the green wet roots. It could quickly go bad. And that’s why I don’t like Leca balls is trying to repot is a nightmare and if you have hundreds of plants, it’s just too much time dealing with it. Even if you let it have a dry period and then a wet. I wouldn’t use LECA like this unless I was oxygenating the water or the water they got was pure rainwater ie a rain shower or storm. And sure would use a self watering so the roots never dry. Its the wet dry that helps maintain air gaps. I don’t believe you can use this grow method and keep an orchid alive for 25-35 years. I have seen orchids in bark live 3-4 generations. I mean I have Orchiata pots that the bark is great, it’s just the plant has grown out of its pot size and needs upsizing multiple times over 7 years. But the bark was left in place because it hasn’t broken down at all and is still healthy - just put in slightly bigger pot and fill in with fresh and off they go. I don’t have the air gap deficient issue because I use Orchiata Power or Power Plus and it’s angular so it’s not like same size and shape balls that roll and shift together. It keeps its spaces open. What are you doing about getting media in the center. Didn’t see you move media to the center. S/H folks are worrying about air gaps but you are filling the pot up with water. Doesn’t make sense to me. And some of those yellow roots that were in the center, never got air, or light, or drying out are likely to rot. But you have no choice but to stay in what you are now because going to normal wet/dry cycle from constant wet would mean the wet roots would die off and then make roots designed for bark. We have to remember orchids grow in trees where it rains, then the breezes dry it completely over the day and this continues and they just keep wondering and looking for new territory to spread out. Why folks think the on,y reason roots grow out of the pot is because of the media. I don’t think that’s true in all situations. I believe genetics make a big difference, the type of orchid, the size of the pot, how big a plant it has grown to, etc. if a lot of moisture in,the air 60-75% or more I believe they will bring their roots to the open air where they get lots of breezes and light. They don’t get that in a pot and some plants just demand thwt wandering space. Aerial roots job is to spread out and find new tree branches and towards or away from sunlight. Maybe they sense a niche in the trunk that has some rich litter with moisture and they grown down and over it. That’s their job - and to continue to brace and work their roots on to the tree bark and niches so in storms they don’t get ripped off and end up in the ground. Maybe they sense a source of moisture and nutrients and will grow towards it. Or if high light needs, they will head further up or over into the sunlight. Maybe getting sunburned and/or too hot so looking for cooler side of the tree. But we stuff them in pots with clay balls in constant wet with no tropical breezes and wonder why they are coming out of the pot ready to climb up the wall. A friend’s actually climb up the woodwork on the window up the side I can only assume to get out of the bright sunshine. A tough Cattleya might have wanted more light and could have come more to the window side of the woodwork. In nature, they don’t stay in 4-10” clay pots. I believe we have to look at where our particular orchid type came from - what country, in the valleys, up in the mountains, in cloud forest, where breezes blow pretty hard all the time, on a mountain side. Is it high humidity, do they have monsoon seasons, and dry almost drought seasons. The questions we have to ask ourselves for each plant type goes on and on. Then it’s our job to emulate that environment as close as can be. I was always taught since the late 60s this wet dry cycle, or periods of no wet until shoots come up, or roots start. And to always if in a house, residential or greenhouse to make sure my plants got both circulation and ventilation- they are different- .ventilation bring in and takes out stagnant bad air. Circulation keeps mold spores from settling and keeps the foliage dry to help prevent disease. With constant wet roots, don’t see how you keep root diseases at bay without systemic fungicides like Banrot on regular basis. Speaking of water molds like phythium, and Phytophthora and others like fusarium, Rhizoctonia, etc that kill roots. Also that you can’t water humidity in to your plants - you need air humidity. If you want those roots popping out of everyone, it’s humid that’s needed. Lots of watering without the plant being able to dry somewhat they just rot at some point. Read and follow this website for lots more information, up to dates researched information and from long term top orchid growers, breeders, etc. St. Augustine Orchid Society. staugorchidsociety.org/culturepests-diseases.htm. It’s all free but you can join for less than $20 year. If you live near them, they have the best speakers each month, repotting clinics, etc. I mean everyone’s environment is different and what works in one house might die in another. But before we jump on someone else’s bandwagon as the best and greatest fad to come along, do some thinking as to what your atmosphere is, think about your cultural habits are, are you gone for 3 weeks at a time or are you home but are a constant waterer. I myself like to see water drops on all the plants like when it has just rained so it’s necessary for me to allow lots of large bark or use inorganic media like charcoal, large sponge rock, lava, etc. Keep the humidity up so the roots keep tips. I could never use sphagnum moss in all my pots and definitely could use these self water pots. I have used Leca but not like this. I like the rougher pieces that have little niches holes to capture nutrients. Same for rough lava rock or even large charcoal that does the same. I mean what’s the purpose of the rocks, why not use more Leca. I know why but why the change in ingredients? Just think about nature and mimicking how they grow on the trees.
I tried leca for a few years and found it to be difficult with many orchids. Cattleyas do well, but phals actually decline with it for me over time. They tend to be ok for a while but after a year or two, they don't always thrive, so I'm moving away from sh and have been documenting and explaining my experience in my latest videos. In short, I thought it was easier than it would be, and in the long run hasn't worked out like I expected, so moving back to bark / moss. Thanks for the comment!
Wow, I didn't realize how much anxiety I had over repotting rootbound orchids, until I watched you try and find an opening into this rootball. lol
haha! Yeah it can be a lot, but for hybrids, they will be ok! The roots are already adapated and with new roots coming, I know this won't fail so I got very thorough.
Hi Nicole, now that was a tug of roots! Great job and I'm sure she's much happier and more comfortable now!! 😍
I think she will bloom again soon 💗 Thanks so much for watching Wanda!
Wow the roots it defo loved the setup Nicole great job nice repot video 👍😘
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks Stephen!
Wow, thanks for walking through this repot for us. I can't believe how many roots were in that pot! After seeing this, I think I need to address some of my s/h orchids that are root-bound.
Thanks for watching Natalie! This doesn't always happen, but I find that when it's so crowded in the pot, it suffocates the roots and eventually they die off, so best to freshen it up and give them some air vs plopping them into a bigger pot where the air gaps won't be present in the center.
You do such nice work on repots. That looked like a lot of work and patience. Thanks for sharing your repots.🤗👏🌼
Thanks so much Shirley! 😊 I will be getting through the collection little by little from now till the end of spring. This was definitely one of the most challenging ones!
Thanks so much Shirley ❤️
Nice job. I’m dreaming of my little bird growing.
It's very vigorous and will! Thanks so much for dropping by ❤️
Clearly painstaking. So helpful you showed 1st repot and did this one. A semi hydro myth dispelled in just potting up. I noticed you did no put LECA touching the new roots. It's higher up even with pebbles. Your thinking why? Beautiful repot.
Admittedly I ran out of clean leca. Lol! The roots will be able to grow down without a problem, though more leca would've been optimal for higher humidity levels up top. I may top with more pebbles, but I think it'll work out. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I am going to repot my yellow bird orchid in semi-hydro 🪴🌸💜 You made my mind up. I absolutely love watching your videos and I subscribed a month or so ago 😀 Very educational so THANK YOU 😊
I do have a question 🙋🏻♀️ how does Phals do in semi-hydro? I have so many and love them all 🌸💜🪴
I'm so glad you enjoyed watching! Thanks for leaving me a comment :) My phals do well in semi hydro. With that said I only grow the complex hybrids in semi hydro. I have the summer blooming phals in moss because it's less cooling to the roots and sometimes in winter I crack a window open to cool the space, but otherwise, I'd say in many indoor environments semi hydro seems to work well for folks I've spoken to in the north east. Good luck with your yellow bird repot, it'll do great :)
Very nice.
Can l also use closed glass pot ?
Yes, but it needs holes so that you can flush it. Thanks for watching!
Just potted up five of my plants into LECA to see if they (and I ) like it. But Wow that looks like a lot of work…
It was, but repots with leca are not all like this. This was a very vigorous hybrid and I waited too long to repot. If I had done it a few months earlier, I wouldn't have been easier. Next week I'll post another leca repot that was smoother. Took me 5 minutes. Thanks for watching!
Hi Nicole, I am wondering if large chunks of "something" added to the leca would help give more air space to the roots ? Adyasha uses large chunks of charcoal with success she says.
Yes, larger chunks can help, that's a good point! I've used pieces of lava rock in the past with success as well. I'm learning how to tweak as I do these repots a year later. Lol. For now the biggest mistake was using a pot that was too small.
Hi and thank you for the video! During the first 15 months did you ever empty the leca and then put it crack in the pot? I know it would disrupt the root system, but would that keep the roots from getting so attached to the leca.
I am wondering about the PH with the Leca, are you having any problems with that ?
No issues with ph so far! I test it every now and then and find it to be at an acceptable level in my environment. I did a semi hydro video guide discussing this in more detail. Thank you so much for watching ❤️
Nicole do you pot all your cattelya in semi hydroponics?
Yes! I find they do well in this system.
Hi. Did you flush the leca at least monthly?
Yes, I flush it once a month
Why did you need to disturb the root system? The media is good, why didn't you just put in a bigger pot?
There were no longer air gaps present, as I explained, if you repot an orchid this root bound, roots will gradually decline over time. Opening it up ensures air gets in and those roots will stay alive longer.
I don’t understand this S/H deal with orchids other than maybe Phalaenopsis or some other thirsty ones. Most of the others like cattleyas want a dry/wet cycle like they grow in nature. We have enough issues just trying to grow in pots period. You always see where these folks couple years later, their plants roots are dying and rotting. So they try to switch to bark - and now the plants we They shouldn’t stay wet constantly ie see all the green wet roots. It could quickly go bad. And that’s why I don’t like Leca balls is trying to repot is a nightmare and if you have hundreds of plants, it’s just too much time dealing with it. Even if you let it have a dry period and then a wet. I wouldn’t use LECA like this unless I was oxygenating the water or the water they got was pure rainwater ie a rain shower or storm. And sure would use a self watering so the roots never dry. Its the wet dry that helps maintain air gaps. I don’t believe you can use this grow method and keep an orchid alive for 25-35 years. I have seen orchids in bark live 3-4 generations. I mean I have Orchiata pots that the bark is great, it’s just the plant has grown out of its pot size and needs upsizing multiple times over 7 years. But the bark was left in place because it hasn’t broken down at all and is still healthy - just put in slightly bigger pot and fill in with fresh and off they go. I don’t have the air gap deficient issue because I use Orchiata Power or Power Plus and it’s angular so it’s not like same size and shape balls that roll and shift together. It keeps its spaces open.
What are you doing about getting media in the center. Didn’t see you move media to the center. S/H folks are worrying about air gaps but you are filling the pot up with water. Doesn’t make sense to me. And some of those yellow roots that were in the center, never got air, or light, or drying out are likely to rot. But you have no choice but to stay in what you are now because going to normal wet/dry cycle from constant wet would mean the wet roots would die off and then make roots designed for bark. We have to remember orchids grow in trees where it rains, then the breezes dry it completely over the day and this continues and they just keep wondering and looking for new territory to spread out. Why folks think the on,y reason roots grow out of the pot is because of the media. I don’t think that’s true in all situations. I believe genetics make a big difference, the type of orchid, the size of the pot, how big a plant it has grown to, etc. if a lot of moisture in,the air 60-75% or more I believe they will bring their roots to the open air where they get lots of breezes and light. They don’t get that in a pot and some plants just demand thwt wandering space. Aerial roots job is to spread out and find new tree branches and towards or away from sunlight. Maybe they sense a niche in the trunk that has some rich litter with moisture and they grown down and over it. That’s their job - and to continue to brace and work their roots on to the tree bark and niches so in storms they don’t get ripped off and end up in the ground. Maybe they sense a source of moisture and nutrients and will grow towards it. Or if high light needs, they will head further up or over into the sunlight. Maybe getting sunburned and/or too hot so looking for cooler side of the tree. But we stuff them in pots with clay balls in constant wet with no tropical breezes and wonder why they are coming out of the pot ready to climb up the wall. A friend’s actually climb up the woodwork on the window up the side I can only assume to get out of the bright sunshine. A tough Cattleya might have wanted more light and could have come more to the window side of the woodwork. In nature, they don’t stay in 4-10” clay pots. I believe we have to look at where our particular orchid type came from - what country, in the valleys, up in the mountains, in cloud forest, where breezes blow pretty hard all the time, on a mountain side. Is it high humidity, do they have monsoon seasons, and dry almost drought seasons. The questions we have to ask ourselves for each plant type goes on and on. Then it’s our job to emulate that environment as close as can be. I was always taught since the late 60s this wet dry cycle, or periods of no wet until shoots come up, or roots start. And to always if in a house, residential or greenhouse to make sure my plants got both circulation and ventilation- they are different- .ventilation bring in and takes out stagnant bad air. Circulation keeps mold spores from settling and keeps the foliage dry to help prevent disease. With constant wet roots, don’t see how you keep root diseases at bay without systemic fungicides like Banrot on regular basis. Speaking of water molds like phythium, and Phytophthora and others like fusarium, Rhizoctonia, etc that kill roots. Also that you can’t water humidity in to your plants - you need air humidity. If you want those roots popping out of everyone, it’s humid that’s needed. Lots of watering without the plant being able to dry somewhat they just rot at some point.
Read and follow this website for lots more information, up to dates researched information and from long term top orchid growers, breeders, etc. St. Augustine Orchid Society. staugorchidsociety.org/culturepests-diseases.htm. It’s all free but you can join for less than $20 year. If you live near them, they have the best speakers each month, repotting clinics, etc.
I mean everyone’s environment is different and what works in one house might die in another. But before we jump on someone else’s bandwagon as the best and greatest fad to come along, do some thinking as to what your atmosphere is, think about your cultural habits are, are you gone for 3 weeks at a time or are you home but are a constant waterer. I myself like to see water drops on all the plants like when it has just rained so it’s necessary for me to allow lots of large bark or use inorganic media like charcoal, large sponge rock, lava, etc. Keep the humidity up so the roots keep tips. I could never use sphagnum moss in all my pots and definitely could use these self water pots. I have used Leca but not like this. I like the rougher pieces that have little niches holes to capture nutrients. Same for rough lava rock or even large charcoal that does the same.
I mean what’s the purpose of the rocks, why not use more Leca. I know why but why the change in ingredients?
Just think about nature and mimicking how they grow on the trees.
I tried leca for a few years and found it to be difficult with many orchids. Cattleyas do well, but phals actually decline with it for me over time. They tend to be ok for a while but after a year or two, they don't always thrive, so I'm moving away from sh and have been documenting and explaining my experience in my latest videos. In short, I thought it was easier than it would be, and in the long run hasn't worked out like I expected, so moving back to bark / moss. Thanks for the comment!