If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Randomly ran into this video before my own Laguna-rear brake job. Had no idea those pins would be an issue. Thanks for the video and warning, will now be prepared!
By far the best DIY-Video I have ever seen. I have to replace the rear discs and pads on my 2007 Renault Vel Satis. I gues and hope it's nearly the same as what i've seen you were working on. Lots of details on camera and a precise description even understandable for me as a German. Thanks a lot and greatings from the unfortunalety soon left Europe ;-)
I don't think you need to lubricate as the bearing doesn't rotate on the stub axle, thought it may help when pushing the disc back on. Just seems a natural thing to do to add a few drops of oil etc on bare metal but not always necessary.
I've put ceramic grease on those spring clip ends 5+ years ago because I also had trouble getting them out the first time. They haven't seized up since. My calipers look slightly different than yours and have rubber inside of the guide pin holes. I've put silicone grease on those guide pins. The product that you used, is it safe to use on rubber?
Thank you for the comment. Your right in that silicone is best for items in contact with rubber. I switched from copper slip to CeraTec a few years back as copper slip isn't recommended anymore. The Mintex CeraTec says on the back for slide pins but saying that mineral grease shouldn't be used with rubber so I will probably start using silicone in the future on those slide pins. I have the red rubber grease also but its an interesting point you bring up. Thank you
@@gigelbaietu5978 I have done the same and just wound piston back in will no seemingly ill effects but I think its good practice to keep the fluid passing in the one direction its meant to which is to the caliper and not back to the ABS module. You should be ok though. Watch fluid doesn't overfill in the reservoir though.
Hi! Great video! How to remove the ABS sensor mount plate behind the discs? Does it just pop off or is it pressed to axle/ bearings? Mine was corroded to a rust dust and now need to find a replace.
Thank you for that. I think it was a push fit into a metal ring. As I recall when I changed a bearing on one the metal ABS sensor holding ring went in first and then the bearing was pressed in holding the ring in place. It might be a bearing out job which is a lot easier with a hydraulic press. I think a new ring came with the new wheel bearing. But the sensor was simply pushed into this clip ring.
Hi Michael do you mean the spring outer clip? I never realised the holes went all the way through. I remember now on an old Laguna the spring snapped and I had to attempt to drill it out. It was stuck good and fast.
Hiya its a fantastic breaker bar, not cheap mind. A Japanese Koken 6768-1000 £131.51 here is a link I think but I bought mine in desperation from a mobile tool guy when removing a wheel nut off a Volvo 850 and the cheap breaker bar snapped and an adaptor sheared so it had to be something in a different league. My wife went mad as it was £100 at the time and she couldn't understand why a tool would be so expensive. It's never snapped in the last 10 years though and it got that nut off the Volvo. www.uktools.com/34drive-1000mm-long-hinge-handleflex-handle.html
@@CoatsandGaiters just guessing here... I think (hope) it is not possible to "overwind/overturn" the brake cylinder. Once you reach the end, it will just turn without going any deeper.
@@withgrowinginsanity198 Hi yes that true but once the piston stops pushing fluid out the air will rise to the bleed nipple and the fluid will run down inside the tube.
@@CoatsandGaiters hmmm... so I think its better to position the tube UP... and the bottle above... this way air will not return, just the fluid. (again... never done this :-)
@@withgrowinginsanity198 The air can't get back in because you close the bleed nipple every time you release the pressure. You don't leave it open continuously, only open the nipple to let pressured fluid out.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Randomly ran into this video before my own Laguna-rear brake job. Had no idea those pins would be an issue. Thanks for the video and warning, will now be prepared!
Thank you for the comment.
By far the best DIY-Video I have ever seen. I have to replace the rear discs and pads on my 2007 Renault Vel Satis. I gues and hope it's nearly the same as what i've seen you were working on. Lots of details on camera and a precise description even understandable for me as a German. Thanks a lot and greatings from the unfortunalety soon left Europe ;-)
F.D. Robben thank you so very much for taking the time to write such a kind comment. Let’s hope it does help you. Happy New Year to you.
Thank you for all videos mainly for the Renault Laguna . I m about to change my rear pads , so your video will come handy . Thanks mate
Good luck with the pads and hope my video helps you.
Thank you it certainly will help
*Mate ..just one question **17:24** did you forget to lubricate the stub axle before placing the new disc in...or is it not needed ?*
I don't think you need to lubricate as the bearing doesn't rotate on the stub axle, thought it may help when pushing the disc back on. Just seems a natural thing to do to add a few drops of oil etc on bare metal but not always necessary.
I've put ceramic grease on those spring clip ends 5+ years ago because I also had trouble getting them out the first time. They haven't seized up since.
My calipers look slightly different than yours and have rubber inside of the guide pin holes. I've put silicone grease on those guide pins.
The product that you used, is it safe to use on rubber?
Thank you for the comment. Your right in that silicone is best for items in contact with rubber. I switched from copper slip to CeraTec a few years back as copper slip isn't recommended anymore. The Mintex CeraTec says on the back for slide pins but saying that mineral grease shouldn't be used with rubber so I will probably start using silicone in the future on those slide pins. I have the red rubber grease also but its an interesting point you bring up. Thank you
Nice and usfully video. What could go wrong wenn you dont lose the brake fluid?
Do you mean not opening the bleed nipple on the caliper as you wind the piston back in?
Yes, correct
@@gigelbaietu5978 I have done the same and just wound piston back in will no seemingly ill effects but I think its good practice to keep the fluid passing in the one direction its meant to which is to the caliper and not back to the ABS module. You should be ok though. Watch fluid doesn't overfill in the reservoir though.
Hi! Great video! How to remove the ABS sensor mount plate behind the discs? Does it just pop off or is it pressed to axle/ bearings? Mine was corroded to a rust dust and now need to find a replace.
Thank you for that. I think it was a push fit into a metal ring. As I recall when I changed a bearing on one the metal ABS sensor holding ring went in first and then the bearing was pressed in holding the ring in place. It might be a bearing out job which is a lot easier with a hydraulic press. I think a new ring came with the new wheel bearing. But the sensor was simply pushed into this clip ring.
The holes go through the caliper so you can use a punch from the rear, the clips wont come out on older cars like 04 05 at all
Hi Michael do you mean the spring outer clip? I never realised the holes went all the way through. I remember now on an old Laguna the spring snapped and I had to attempt to drill it out. It was stuck good and fast.
*HI mate, we're did you buy that breaker bar from I want one of that quality. ..thanks* 👍
Hiya its a fantastic breaker bar, not cheap mind. A Japanese Koken 6768-1000 £131.51 here is a link I think but I bought mine in desperation from a mobile tool guy when removing a wheel nut off a Volvo 850 and the cheap breaker bar snapped and an adaptor sheared so it had to be something in a different league. My wife went mad as it was £100 at the time and she couldn't understand why a tool would be so expensive. It's never snapped in the last 10 years though and it got that nut off the Volvo.
www.uktools.com/34drive-1000mm-long-hinge-handleflex-handle.html
@@CoatsandGaiters *👍👍 Thank you ! 😊*
Tnx🙏
Do you know if this calipers gonna fit on Megane 2 if I wanna swap?
Really sorry but I wouldn’t know.
Thank you 💓😌
Hope it helped
is at 15:51 air getting back thru the transparent line to the break cylinder?
Hi I think that's the fluid just running down the side of the tube as the piston is struggling to go in.
@@CoatsandGaiters just guessing here... I think (hope) it is not possible to "overwind/overturn" the brake cylinder. Once you reach the end, it will just turn without going any deeper.
@@withgrowinginsanity198 Hi yes that true but once the piston stops pushing fluid out the air will rise to the bleed nipple and the fluid will run down inside the tube.
@@CoatsandGaiters hmmm... so I think its better to position the tube UP... and the bottle above... this way air will not return, just the fluid. (again... never done this :-)
@@withgrowinginsanity198 The air can't get back in because you close the bleed nipple every time you release the pressure. You don't leave it open continuously, only open the nipple to let pressured fluid out.
hello been watching your video on the renault laguna 2 do you have any info on changing the tappet on a 2.0l 16 valve ? thanks
Sorry I haven’t needed to do that yet. M9R engine you referring to?
@@CoatsandGaiters dont engine number its a petrol 2.0L 16v thanks 2006
@@timwilkinson514 we have only had the diesels I’m afraid.
I have never needed to bleed the brakes as I do this. Am I missing something? Does this just make it easier? Thanks.
I agree with you but the manual says to do it this way and since I don’t wish to make an incorrect video I do what Renault say lol.
@@CoatsandGaiters Valid point well presented. Thanks.